PART III
CONTENTS: CHAPTER IV.
CAMP LIFE.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
CAMP FIRE YARNS.
11.—Pioneering: Knot-tying; Hut-making; Felling Trees; Bridging; Measurements; Handicrafts.
12.—Camping: Comfort in Camp; Camp Fires; Tidiness; Camp Orders.
13.—Cooking: Cooking; Bread-making; Driving Cattle; Cleanliness; Water.
PRACTICES, GAMES, COMPETITIONS, Etc.
BOOKS TO READ ON CAMP LIFE.
CONTENTS: CHAPTER V.
(Commences on page [172].)
CAMPAIGNING.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
CAMP FIRE YARNS.
14.—Life in the Open: On the Veldt; Exploring; Boating; Watermanship; Mountaineering; Patrolling; Night Work; Weather Wisdom.
15.—Pathfinding: Finding the Way; Judging Heights and Distances; Finding the North.
16.—Signalling Information: Hidden Information; Signalling; Whistle and Flag Signals.
PRACTICES, GAMES, and COMPETITIONS IN CAMPAIGNING.
BOOKS ON CAMPAIGNING.
CHAPTER IV.
CAMP LIFE.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 11.
PIONEERING.
Knot-tying—Hutmaking—Felling Trees—Bridging—Measurements—Handicrafts.
Pioneers are men who go ahead to open up a way in the jungles or elsewhere for those coming after them.
When I was on service on the West Coast of Africa I had command of a large force of native scouts, and, like all scouts, we tried to make ourselves useful in every way to our main army. So not only did we look out for the enemy and watch his moves, but we also did what we could to improve the road for our own army, since it was merely a narrow track through thick jungle and swamps. That is, we became pioneers as well as scouts. In the course of our march, we built nearly two hundred bridges of timber over streams. But when I first set the scouts to do this most important work I found that, out of the thousand men, a great many did not know how to use an axe to cut down the trees, and, except one company of about sixty men, none knew how to make knots—even bad knots. So they were quite useless for building bridges, as this had to be done by tying poles together.
So every scout ought to be able to tie knots.
To tie a knot seems to be a simple thing, and yet there are right ways and wrong ways of doing it, and scouts ought to know the right way. Very often it may happen that lives depend on a knot being properly tied.
The right kind of knot to tie is one which you can be certain will hold under any amount of strain, and which you can always undo easily if you wish to.
Pioneering Scouts in Ashanti.
A bad knot, which is called a "granny," is one which slips away when a hard pull comes on it, or which gets jammed so tight that you cannot untie it.
The following are useful knots which every scout ought to know, and ought to use whenever he is tying string or rope, etc.
1.—Reef Knot, for tying ropes together.
2.—Sheet Bend, for tying two rope ends together.
3.—Clove Hitch, for fastening a rope to a pole.
4.—Two Half-Hitches to make a rope fast to a pole with a sliding loop.
5.—Bowline, for making a loop that will not slip, such at you tie round a man when you want to rescue him from fire, etc.
First step in the bowline.
Second step in the bowline.
6.—Overhand Knot.
7.—Middleman's Knot.
NOTE.—In the above diagrams this means the end of the rope.
This means the continuation of the rope.
Rope.
We had no rope with us in West Africa, so we used the strong creeping plants, and also used thin withes or long whippy sticks which we made still more pliant or bendable by holding one end under foot and twisting the other round and round with our hands. The best wood for withes in England is willow or hazel. You see them used for binding faggots of wood together. You cannot tie all knots with them as with rope—but they can generally make a timber hitch; or this withe knot.
HUT BUILDING.
To live comfortably in camp a scout must know how to make a bivouac shelter for the night, or a hut if he is going to be for a long time in camp.
It all depends on the country and weather as to what sort of shelter you put up.
In making your roof, whether of branches of fir-trees, or of grass or reeds, etc., put them on as you would do tiles or slates, beginning at the bottom so that the upper overlap the lower ones and thus run off the rain without letting it through.
Notice which direction the wind generally blows from and put the back of your shelter that way with your fire in front of it.
The simplest shelter is to plant two forked sticks firmly in the ground, and rest a cross bar on them as ridge-pole. Then lean other poles against it, or a hurdle or branches, and thatch it with grass, etc.
Or another good way, and quicker, is to cut one pole only and lean it against a tree, binding its end there; then thatch it with branches or brushwood, etc.
Where you have no poles available you can do as the South African natives do—pile up a lot of brushwood, heather, etc., into a small wall made in semi-circle to keep out the cold wind; and make your fire in the open part.
If your tent or hut is too hot in the sun, put blankets or more straw, etc., over the top. The thicker the roof the cooler is the tent in summer. If it is too cold, make the bottom of the walls thicker, or build a small wall of sods about a foot high round the foot of the wall outside. Never forget to dig a good drain all round your hut, so that if heavy rain comes in the night your floor will not get flooded from outside.
Framework of a Bivouac Shelter, to be thatched with brushwood or grass. A second lean-to roof on opposite side of ridge pole will then make a hut.
Zulus make their huts by planting in the ground a circle of long whippy sticks standing upright, then they bend the tops all down towards the centre and tie them together, then they weave more whippy sticks round in and out of the uprights horizontally until they have made a kind of circular bird-cage, this they then cover with a straw mat or thatch, or with straw woven into the sticks. Sometimes a small hole is left at the top where all the sticks join, to act as a chimney.
Hut.
The Red Indians make their "Tee Pee" with several poles tied together in the form of a pyramid, and over these they pass a piece of canvas, which at a little distance looks like a bell tent.
FELLING TREES.
A scout must know how to use an axe or bill-hook for chopping down small trees and branches.
The way to cut down a tree is first to chop out a chunk of wood near the bottom of the stem on that side to which you want the tree to fall, then go round to the other side, and chop away on the opposite side of the stem a few inches above the first cut until the tree topples over. It is a matter of practice to become a wood-cutter, but you have to be very careful at first lest in chopping you miss the tree and chop your own leg.
HOW TO MAKE BRIDGES.
As I told you before, my scouts in Ashanti, when also acting as pioneers, had to build nearly two hundred bridges—and they had to make them out of any kind of material that they could find on the spot.
There are many ways of making bridges. In the Army they are generally made of poles lashed together. In India, in the Himalaya Mountains the natives make bridges out of three ropes stretched across the river and connected together every few yards by V-shaped sticks, so that one rope forms the footpath and the other two make the handrail on each side. They are jumpy kind of bridges to walk across, but they take you over; and they are easily made.
How to Fell a Tree.
The simplest way for bridging a narrow, deep stream is to fell a tree, or two trees side by side, on the bank, so that they fall across the stream. With an adze you then flatten the topside; put up a hand-rail, and there you have a very good bridge.
Rafts, too, can be used. You build your raft alongside the bank, in the water if the river is shallow; on the bank if deep. When it is finished you hold on to the down stream end, push the other out from the bank and let the stream carry it down into position.
Rope Bridge.
SELF MEASURES.
Every pioneer should know his exact personal measurement in the following details (of which I give the average man's measure):
| Nail joint of forefinger, or breath of thumb | 1 inch. |
| Span of thumb and forefinger | 8 inches. |
| Span of thumb and little finger or other finger | 9 inches. |
| (This also gives you the length of your foot). | |
| Wrist to elbow | 10 inches. |
| Elbow to tip of forefinger (called "cubit") | 17 inches. |
| Middle of kneecap to ground | 18 inches. |
Extended arms, from finger-tip to finger-tip, is called a fathom and nearly equals your height.
Pulse beats about 75 times a minute: each beat is a little quicker than a second.
Pace: A pace is about 2-1/2 feet: about 120 paces equal 100 yards. Fast walking paces are shorter than when going slow.
Fast walking you walk a mile in 16 minutes, or nearly four miles an hour.
THE SCOUT IS ALWAYS A HANDY-MAN.
Pioneers are always "handy-men." In the Army the Regimental Pioneers are the men who in war make bridges and roadways for the troops to get along; they destroy the enemy's bridges and railways so that he cannot get away; and they blow up his fortifications so that the rest of the soldiers can rush in and capture the place, and so on. In peace-time the pioneers do all the useful jobs in barracks, such as carpentering, doing plumbers' and painters' work, bricklaying and metal work, making chairs, tables, bookshelves, etc. So scouts, if they want to be handy pioneers, should also learn this kind of work; and it will always be useful to them afterwards.
Also scouts must know how to mend and even to make themselves clothes and boots. I have made myself boots as well as shoes out of all sorts of materials, but always wished I had, while a boy, learned to do a bit of boot-mending from a cobbler.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
Start a carpentry class, or instruction in electricity, or plumbing, elementary engineering, etc., with a view to teaching the boys handicrafts that may be of real use to them in their future life. If you do not know enough about it yourself, get a friend to come and demonstrate with models or instruments for a few evenings.
Get leave to take the scouts over a factory to study the engines, etc.
Teach the boys to chop firewood. If they learn to chop up old packing cases, etc., and make the billets into bundles for the trade, they can earn a good deal towards their funds.
Teach them to make wooden mechanical toys, (from one or two penny ones as models.) Thereby teaching them elementary mechanics, and handiness with tools.
PRACTICES.
Knot-tying should be practised against time, by knot-tying races between scouts in heats, the losers to pair off again for further heats till the slowest knot-tyer is found. In this way (which should be used in other branches of instruction also) the worst performers get the most practice—and the emulation is just as great to avoid being the worst, as it would be in striving to be the best, and win a prize.
Knot-tying races should also be carried out in the dark, the instructor turning out the light for a few seconds on naming the knot to be tied.
Hurdle-making by planting a row of upright stakes and weaving in withes.
Make models of bridges with scouts' staves, cords, planks out of old packing cases.
BOOKS TO READ.
"Manual of Military Engineering": War Office Publication.
"Active Service Pocket Book," by Mr. Bertrand Stewart, 3s. 6d. (Clowes and Son.)
"Romance of Engineering and Mechanism," 5s. (Published by Seely and Co.)
"How it Works." Showing how such things work as steam engines, motors, vacuum brakes, telephones, telegraphs, etc.
1s. books on Carpentering, Joinery, Engine-driving, etc.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 12.
CAMPING.
Comfort in Camp—Useful Tricks and Dodges—Camp Fires and all about them—Tidiness.
COMFORT IN CAMP.
Some people talk of "roughing it" in camp. Those people are generally "tenderfoots"; an old backwoodsman doesn't rough it, he knows how to look after himself and to make himself comfortable by a hundred little dodges. For instance if there are no tents he doesn't sit down to shiver and grouse, but at once sets to work to rig up a shelter or a hut for himself. He chooses a good spot for it where he is not likely to be flooded out if a storm of rain were to come on. Then he lights up a camp fire and makes himself a comfortable mattress of ferns or straw. An old scout is full of resource, that is he can find a way out of any difficulty or discomfort. He is full of "dodges," like the boy who had to rap on the door with the knocker which he could not reach. He showed resourcefulness.
A bivouac is a halt without tents and generally is not meant to last for many hours; a camp generally means a resting place with tents or huts to live in.
There are many ways of making a comfortable bed in camp, but always if possible have some kind of covering over the ground between your body and the earth, especially after wet weather. Cut grass or straw or bracken are very good things to lay down thickly where you are going to lie, but if you cannot get any of these and are obliged to lie on the ground, do not forget before lying down to make a small hole about the size of a tea-cup in which your hip joint will rest when you are lying on your side; it makes all the difference for sleeping comfortably. A very comfortable bed, almost a spring mattress, is made in Canada by cutting a large number of tops of the fir-tree branches and planting them upright in the ground as close together as possible, like bristles in a brush, so close that when you lie down on them they form a comfortable and springy couch.
Resourcefulness in Doing a Good Turn.
Remember when sleeping in camp the secret of keeping warm is to have as many blankets underneath you as you have above you. If a patrol were sleeping round a fire you would all lie with your feet towards it like the spokes of a wheel. If your blankets do not keep you sufficiently warm, put straw or bracken over yourselves and newspapers if you have them. It is also a good tip in cold weather, if you have not sufficiently warm clothing, to put a newspaper under your coat or waistcoat up your back and round your body, it will be as good as a great-coat in giving you extra warmth.
To make a bed, cut four poles—two of seven feet, two of three—lay them on the ground so as to form the edges.
Bed.
Cut four pegs, two feet long, and sharpen, drive them into the ground at the four corners to keep the poles in place.
Cut down a fir tree; cut off all branches and lay them overlapping each other like slates on a roof till a thick bed of them is made; the outside ones underlapping the poles. Cover with a blanket.
To make a mattress you first set up a camp loom (see "Hints to Instructors," page 163) and weave a mattress out of bracken, ferns, heather, straw, or grass, etc., six feet long and two feet nine inches across.
With this same loom you can make grass or straw mats, with which to form tents, or shelters, or walls, or carpets, etc.
Camp candlesticks can be made by bending a bit of wire into a small spiral spring; or by using a cleft stick stuck in the wall; or a glass candle shade can be made by cutting the bottom off a bottle and sticking it upside down in the ground with a candle stuck into the neck.
Camp Candlesticks.
The bottom of the bottle may be cut off either by putting about an inch or an inch and a half of water into the bottle and then standing it in the embers of the fire till it gets hot and cracks at the water-level. Or it can be done by passing a piece of string round the body of the bottle, and drawing it rapidly to and fro till it makes a hot line round the bottle which then breaks neatly off with a blow or on being immersed in cold water.
Camp forks can also be made out of wire sharpened at the points.
It is something to know how to sit down in a wet camp. You "squat" instead of sitting. Natives in India squat on their heels, but this is a tiring way if you have not done it as a child; though it comes easy if you put a sloping stone or chock of wood under your heels.
Camp Fork.
Boers and other camp men squat on one heel. It is a little tiring at first.
Buttons are always being lost in camp, and it adds greatly to your comfort to know how to make buttons out of bootlaces or string. This will be shown to you. Scouts should also be able to carve collar studs out of wood, bone, or horn.
A great secret of sleeping comfortably in camp is to have a canvas bag about two feet long by one foot wide into which you pack odds and ends—or carry empty and fill up with grass or underclothing to form your pillow at night.
CAMP FIRES.—THE RIGHT WAY OF MAKING THEM.
Before lighting your fire remember always to do as every backwoodsman does, and that is to cut away or burn all bracken, heather, grass, etc., round the fire to prevent its setting light to the surrounding grass or bush. Many bad bush-fires have been caused by young tenderfoots fooling about with blazes which they imagined to be camp fires. In burning the grass for this purpose, (or "ring-burning" as it is called) burn only a little at a time and have branches of trees or old sacks ready with which you can beat it out again at once when it has gone far enough.
Scouts should always be on the look-out to beat out a bush-fire that has been accidentally started at any time as a "good turn" to the owner of the land or to people who may have herds and crops in danger.
It is no use to learn how to light a fire by hearsay, the only way is to pay attention to the instructions given you, and then practise laying and lighting a fire yourself.
In the book called "Two Little Savages," instructions for laying a fire are given in the following rhyme:
First a curl of birch bark as dry as it can be,
Then some twigs of soft wood dead from off a tree,
Last of all some pine knots to make a kettle foam,
And there's a fire to make you think you're sitting right at home.
Star Fire Ready to Light.
Remember to begin your fire with a small amount of very small chips or twigs of really dry dead wood lightly heaped together and a little straw or paper to ignite it; about this should be put little sticks leaning together in the shape of a pyramid, and above this bigger sticks similarly standing on end. When the fire is well alight bigger sticks can be added, and, finally, logs of wood. A great thing for a cooking fire is to get a good pile of red hot wood ashes, and if you use three large logs they should be placed lying on the ground, star-shaped, like the spokes of a wheel, with their ends centred in the fire. A fire made in this way need never go out, for as the logs burn away you keep pushing them towards the centre of the fire, always making fresh red hot ashes there. This makes a good cooking fire, and also one which gives very little flame or smoke for the enemy to detect from a distance.
To leave your fire alight at night, cover it over with a heap of ashes and it will smoulder all night ready for early use in the morning, when you can easily blow it into a glow.
Camp Grate.
If you want to keep a fire going all night to show or to warm you, put good-sized logs end to end star shaped—and one long one reaching to your hand so that you can push it in from time to time to the centre without trouble of getting up to stoke the fire.
If coals or wood are difficult to get for making fires at home, don't forget that old boots which you often find lying about on dustheaps, make very good fuel.
You can do a good turn to any poor old woman in winter time by collecting old boots and giving them to her for firing.
Another way to make a good cooking fire is one they use in America.
Drive two stout stakes into the ground about four feet apart, both leaning a bit backwards. Cut down a young tree with a trunk some fifteen feet high and ten inches thick; chop it into five-foot lengths; lay three logs, one on top of another, leaning against the upright stakes. This forms the back of your fireplace. Two short logs are then laid as fire-dogs, and a log laid across them as front bar of the fire. Inside this "grate" you build a pyramid-shaped fire, which then gives out great heat. The "grate" must, of course, be built so that it faces the wind.
Tongs are useful about a camp-fire, and can be made from a rod of beech or other tough wood, about four feet long and one inch thick. Shave it away in the middle to about half its proper thickness, and put this part into the hot embers of the fire for a few moments, and bend the stick over till the two ends come together. Then flatten away the inside edges of the ends so that they have a better grip—and there are your tongs.
A besom is also useful for keeping the camp clean, and can easily be made with a few sprigs of birch bound tightly round a stake.
Drying Clothes.—You will often get wet through on service, and you will see recruits remaining in their wet clothes until they get dry again; no old scout would do so, as that is the way to catch fever and get ill. When you are wet, take the first opportunity of getting your wet clothes off and drying them, even though you may not have other clothes to put on, as happened to me many a time. I have sat naked under a waggon while my one suit of clothes was drying over a fire. The way to dry clothes over a fire is to make a fire of hot ashes, and then build a small beehive-shaped cage of sticks over the fire, and then to hang your clothes all over this cage, and they will very quickly dry. Also, in hot weather it is dangerous to sit in your clothes when they have got wet from your perspiration. On the West Coast of Africa I always carried a spare shirt, hanging down my back, with the sleeves tied round my neck; so soon as I halted I would take off the wet shirt I was wearing and put on the dry, which had been hanging out in the sun on my back. By these means I never got fever when almost everyone else went down with it.
TIDINESS.
The camp ground should at all times be kept clean and tidy, not only (as I have pointed out) to keep flies away, but also because if you go away to another place, and leave an untidy ground behind you, it gives so much important information to enemy's scouts. For this reason scouts are always tidy, whether in camp or not, as a matter of habit. If you are not tidy at home you won't be tidy in camp; and if you're not tidy in camp you will be only a tenderfoot and no scout.
Right Shoe laced in the Scout's Way.
[One end of the lace is knotted under the lowest outside hole, and the lace is brought through and threaded downwards through the opposite hole; it is then taken up to the top. The dotted part of the lace is the part which lies underneath the shoe and is not visible.]
A scout is tidy also in his tent or room, because he may yet be suddenly called upon to go off on an alarm, or something unexpected: and if he does not know exactly where to lay his hand on his things he will be a long time in turning out, especially if called up in the middle of the night. So on going to bed, even when at home, practise the habit of folding up your clothes and putting them where you can at once find them in the dark and get into them quietly.
A scout even ties his shoe laces neatly—in fact they are not tied, but are wove through the eyelet holes from top of the boot downwards, and so need no tying.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
CAMP ORDERS.
In going into camp it is essential to have a few "Standing Orders" published, which can be added to from time to time if necessary. These should be carefully explained to patrol leaders, who should then be held fully responsible that their scouts carry them out exactly.
Such orders might point out that each patrol will camp separately from the others, and there will be a comparison between the respective cleanliness and good order of tents and surrounding ground.
Patrol leaders to report on the good work or otherwise of their scouts, which will be recorded in the scoutmaster's book of marks.
Rest time for one hour and a half in middle of day.
Bathing under strict supervision to prevent non-swimmers getting into dangerous water.
"Bathing piquet of two good swimmers will be on duty while bathing is going on, and ready to help any boy in distress. This piquet will be in the boat (undressed) with greatcoats on. They may only bathe when the general bathing is over and the last of the bathers has left the water."
Orders as what is to be done in case of fire alarm.
Orders as to boundaries of grounds to be worked over, damages to fences, property, etc.
Latrine, with screens across.
Camp Latrines.—A simple trench should be dug, one foot wide, two and a half feet deep, for the user to squat astride. Straw mats or canvas screens to be put up across the trench every four feet to secure privacy between the users. (N.B.—This is an important point in education.) Side screens to hide the latrine from outside view.
PRACTICES.
To Make a Camp Loom.—Plant a row of five stakes, 2ft. 6in., firmly in the ground; opposite to them, at a distance of 6ft. to 7ft., drive in a row of from two to five stakes. Fasten a cord or gardener's twine to the head of each stake in No. 1 row and stretch it to the corresponding stake in No. 2 and make it fast there, then carry the continuation of it back over No. 1 row for some 5ft. extra, and fasten it to a loose crossbar or "beam" at exactly the same distances apart from the next cord as it stands at the stakes. This beam is then moved up and down at slow intervals by one scout, while the remainder lay bundles of fern or straw, etc., in layers alternately under and over the stretched strings, which are thus bound in by the rising or falling on to them.
Camp Loom, for making Mats and Mattresses.
If in camp, practise making different kinds of beds.
If indoors, make camp candlesticks, lamps, forks, tongs, buttons, besoms.
If outdoors, practise laying and lighting fires.
Make scouts lace shoes neatly on the principle given.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 13.
CAMP LIFE.
Cooking, Right Ways and Wrong Ways—Bread-making—Driving Cattle—Cleanliness—Water.
COOKING.
Every scout must, of course, know how to cook his own meat and vegetables and to make bread for himself without regular cooking utensils. For boiling water a scout would usually have his tin "billy," and in that he can boil vegetables or stew his meat, and often he will want it for drinking and will cook his meat in some other way. This would usually be done by sticking it on sharp sticks and hanging it close to the fire so that it gets broiled; or the lid of an old biscuit tin can be used as a kind of frying-pan. Put grease or water in it to prevent the meat getting burnt before it is cooked.
Meat can also be wrapped in a few sheets of wet paper or in a coating of clay and put in the red-hot embers of the fire, where it will cook itself. Birds and fish can also be cooked in this manner, and there is no need to pluck the bird before doing so if you use clay, as the feathers will stick to the clay when it hardens in the heat, and when you break it open the bird will come out cooked, without its feathers, like the kernel out of a nutshell.
Another way is to clean out the inside of the bird, get a pebble about the size of its inside, and heat it till nearly red-hot, place it inside the bird, and put the bird on a gridiron or on a wooden spit over the fire.
Birds are most easily plucked immediately after being killed.
Don't do as I did once when I was a tenderfoot. It was my turn to cook, so I thought I would vary the dinner by giving them soup. I had some pea-flour, and I mixed it with water and boiled it up, and served it as pea-soup; but I did not put in any stock or meat juice of any kind. I didn't know that it was necessary or would be noticeable. But they noticed it directly—called my beautiful soup a "wet peas-pudding," and told me I might eat it myself—not only told me I might, but they jolly well made me eat it. I never made the mistake again.
Camp Kitchen.
To boil your "billy" or camp kettle you can either stand it on the logs (where it often falls over unless care is taken), or, better, stand it on the ground among the hot embers of the fire, or else rig up a triangle of three green poles over the fire, tying them together at the top and hanging the pot by a wire or chain from the poles. But in making this tripod do not, if there is an old scout in camp, use poplar sticks for poles, because, although they are easy to cut and trim for the purpose, old-fashioned scouts have a fancy that they bring bad luck to the cooking. Any other kind of wood will do better.
This is as good a kind of camp kitchen as any, it is made with two lines of sods, bricks, stones, or thick logs, flattened at the top, about six feet long, slightly splayed from each other, being four inches apart at one end and eight inches at the other—the big end towards the wind.
Another way, when there are several "billies" to cook, is to put them in two lines a few inches apart, one end of the line facing towards the wind. Lay your fire of small wood between the two lines, and put a third row of "billies" standing on top of the first two rows—so that a small tunnel is made by the "billies." In the windward end of this tunnel start your fire; the draught will carry its heat along the tunnel, and this will heat all the pots. The fire should be kept up with small split chunks of wood.
When boiling a pot of water on the fire, do not jam the lid on too firmly, as when the steam forms inside the pot it must have some means of escape or it will burst the pot.
To find out when the water is beginning to boil, you need not take off the lid and look, but just hold the end of a stick, or knife, etc., to the pot, and if the water is boiling you will feel it trembling.
Kabobs.—Cut your meat up into a slice about half or three-quarters of an inch thick; cut this up into small pieces about one to one and a half inches across. String a lot of these chunks on to a stick or iron rod, and plant it in front of the fire, or suspend it over the hot embers for a few minutes till the meat is roasted.
Hunter's Stew.—Chop your meat into small chunks about an inch or one and a half inches square.
Scrape and chop up any vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, onions, etc., and put them into your "billy."
Add clean water or soup till it is half full.
Mix some flour, salt, and pepper together, and rub your meat well in it, and put this in the "billy."
There should be enough water just to cover the food—no more.
Let the "billy" stand in the embers and simmer for about one hour and a quarter.
The potatoes take longest to cook. When these are soft (which you try with a fork) enough not to lift out, the whole stew is cooked.
BREAD MAKING.
To make bread, the usual way is for a scout to take off his coat, spread it on the ground, with the inside uppermost (so that any mess he makes in it will not show outwardly when he wears his coat afterwards); then he makes a pile of flour on the coat and scoops out the centre until it forms a cup for the water which he then pours in hot; he then mixes the dough with a pinch or two of salt, and of baking-powder or of Eno's Fruit Salt, and kneads and mixes it well together until it forms a lump of well-mixed dough. Then with a little fresh flour sprinkled over the hands to prevent the dough sticking to them, he pats it and makes it into the shape of a large bun or several buns.
Then he puts it on a gridiron over hot ashes, or sweeps part of the fire to one side, and on the hot ground left there he puts his dough, and piles hot ashes round it and lets it bake itself.
Only small loaves like buns can be made in this way.
If real bread is required, a kind of oven has to be made, either by using an old earthenware pot or tin box, and putting it into the fire and piling fire all over it, or by making a clay oven, lighting a fire inside it, and then when it is well heated raking out the fire and putting the dough inside, and shutting up the entrance tightly till the bread is baked.
Another way is to cut a stout club, sharpen its thin end, peel it and heat it in the fire. Make a long strip of dough, about two inches wide and half an inch thick: wind it spirally down the club; then plant the club close to the fire and let the dough toast itself, just giving the club a turn now and then.
Ration Bags.—Very often on service they serve you out with a double handful of flour instead of bread or biscuits, a bit of meat, a spoonful of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, one of baking-powder, and a handful of coffee or tea. It is rather fun to watch a tenderfoot get this ration and see how he carries it away to his bivouac.
How would you do it?
Of course you could put the pepper into one pocket, the salt into another, the sugar into another, the flour into your hat, and carry that in one hand, the bit of beef in the other hand, and the coffee in the other.
Only if you are in your shirt sleeves, as you generally are, you haven't many pockets, and if, like some people, you have only two hands, it is a difficult job.
The old campaigner, therefore, always has his three "ration bags," little bags which he makes himself out of bits of shirt tails or pocket-handkerchiefs, or other such luxuries; and into one he puts the flour and baking-powder, into No. 2 his coffee and sugar, into No. 3 his salt and pepper.
Very often just after we had got our rations we would have to march at once. How do you suppose we made our flour into bread in one minute?
We just mixed it with a lot of water in a mug and drank it! It did just as well in the end.
CATTLE-DRIVING AND SLAUGHTERING.
Before you cook your hare you've got to catch him. So with mutton or beef—you have to bring the sheep or ox to the place where you want him. Then you have to kill him and cut him up before you can cook him and eat him.
Scouts ought to know how to drive sheep and cattle and horses. Tenderfoots always forget to send someone in front of the herd to draw them on.
Sheep are apt to crowd up too much together so that those in the middle of the flock soon get half suffocated in dust and heat, and then they faint. It is often therefore, advisable for one driver to keep moving in the centre of the flock to make an occasional opening for air, and it keeps the whole flock moving better. If you come to an obstacle like a stile or wall with sheep, lift one or two over it and the rest will soon follow, but they should not be too hurried.
Scouts should also know how to kill and cut up their cattle.
Cattle are generally poleaxed, or a spike is driven into the forehead with a mallet, or a shot or blank cartridge is fired into the forehead, or a big sharp knife is driven into the spine just behind the horns, the animal's head having first been securely tied down to a cart wheel or fence.
Sheep are generally killed either by being laid on their side and having their head drawn back and throat cut with a big sharp knife, or by being shot in the forehead with a revolver or blank cartridge of a rifle.
The animal should then be gutted by having the belly slit open and the inside taken out, liver and kidneys being kept.
To skin the beast, lay the carcase on its back and slit the skin down the centre with a sharp knife, slit up the inside of the legs, and pull the skin off, helping it with the knife where it sticks to the body, first one side and then the other down to the back bone.
The carcase is split in half in the case of a big beast; with a sheep it is cut into two, and the fore quarters and hind quarters are then again divided into joints.
A scout should know how to milk a cow or a goat, else he may go thirsty when there is lots of milk available. A goat is not so easy to milk as you might think. You have to keep hold of its head with one hand, its hind leg with the other, and milk it with the other if you had a third. The way a native does it is to catch hold of its hind leg between his big toe and the next, and thus he has a hand to spare to milk with.
CLEANLINESS.
One thing to remember in camp is that if you get sick you are no use as a scout, and are only a burden to others, and you generally get ill through your own fault. Either you don't change into dry clothes when you get wet, or you let dirt get into your food, or you drink bad water.
So, when cooking your food, always be careful to clean your cooking pots, plates, forks, etc., very thoroughly.
Flies are most dangerous, because they carry about seeds of disease on their feet, and if they settle on your food they will often leave the poison there for you to eat—and then you wonder why you get ill. Flies generally live best where there is dirt, and scraps of food are left lying about.
For this reason you should be careful to keep your camp very clean, so that flies won't come there. All slops and scraps should be thrown away into a properly-dug hole, where they can be buried, and not scattered about all over the place. Patrol leaders must be very careful to see that this is always done.
WATER.
Good drinking water is one of the most important of all things in campaigning, in order to make sure of your being healthy.
All water has a large number of tiny animals floating about in it, too small to be seen without the help of a microscope. Some of them are poisonous, some are not; you can't tell whether the poisonous ones are there, so the safest way is to kill them all before you drink any water; and the way to kill them is to boil the water, and let it cool again before drinking it. In boiling the water don't let it merely come to a boil and then take it off, but let it boil fully for a quarter of an hour, as these little beasts, or microbes as they are called, are very tough customers, and take a lot of boiling before they get killed.
For the same reason it is very dangerous to drink out of streams, and especially out of ponds, when you feel thirsty, for you may suck down any amount of poison in doing so. If a pond is your only water-supply, it is best to dig a small well, three feet deep, about ten feet away from the pond, and the water will ooze through into it, and will be much more healthy to drink.
We did this in Mafeking, when the Boers cut off our regular water-supply, and so had no sickness from bad water.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
Practise in mixing dough and baking; it is useful. If possible, get a baker to give a lesson. But let each scout mix his own dough with the amount of water he thinks right. Let him make his mistakes at first to get experience.
A visit to a slaughter-house and butcher's shop to see the cutting up is useful for boys.
Get scouts to make their own linen ration bags.
Issue raw rations, and let each scout make his own fire and cook his own meal.
CAMP GAMES.
Hockey, Rounders, Football, Basket Ball, which is practically football played only with the hands, with a basket seven feet above ground as goal. A small bit of ground or a room or court will do for the game.
"Bang the Bear" (from Mr. Seton Thompson's "Birchbark of the Woodcraft Indians.") One big boy is bear, and has three bases, in which he can take refuge and be safe. He carries a small air balloon on his back. The other boys are armed with clubs of straw rope twisted, with which they try to burst his balloon while he is outside the base. The bear has a similar club, with which he knocks off the hunters' hats. The hat represents the hunter's life. A good game for introducing strange or shy boys to each other.
Songs, recitations, small plays, etc., can be performed round the camp fire, and every scout should be made to contribute something to the programme, whether he thinks he is a performer or not. A different patrol may be told off for each night of the week to provide for the performance; they can thus prepare it beforehand.
BOOK TO READ.
"Woodcraft." By Nessmuk. 2s. (Pub.: Forest and Stream, New York.)
CHAPTER V.
CAMPAIGNING.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 14.
LIFE IN THE OPEN.
Outdoor Training—Exploration—Boat Cruising—Watermanship—Mountaineering—Patrolling—Nightwork—Weather Wisdom.
The native boys of the Zulu and Swazi tribes learn to be scouts before they are allowed to be considered men, and they do it in this way: when a boy is about fifteen or sixteen he is taken by the men of his village, stripped of all clothes and painted white from head to foot, and he is given a shield and one assegai or small spear, and he is turned out of the village and told that he will be killed if anyone catches him while he is still painted white. So the boy has to go off into the jungle and mountains and hide himself from other men until the white paint wears off, and this generally takes about a month; so that all this time he has to look after himself and stalk game with his one assegai and kill it and cut it up; he has to light his fire by means of rubbing sticks together in order to cook his meat; he has to make the skin of the animal into a covering for himself; and he has to know what kind of wild root, berries, and leaves are good for food as vegetables. If he is not able to do these things, he dies of starvation, or is killed by wild animals. If he succeeds in keeping himself alive, and is able to find his way back to his village, he returns when the white paint has worn off and is then received with great rejoicings by his friends and relations, and is allowed to become a soldier of the tribe since he has shown that he is able to look after himself.
It is a pity that all British boys cannot have the same sort of training before they are allowed to consider themselves men—and the training which we are now doing as scouts is intended to fill that want as far as possible. If every boy works hard at this course and really learns all that we try to teach him, he will, at the end of it, have some claim to call himself a scout and a man, and will find if ever he goes on service, or to a colony, that he will have no difficulty in looking after himself and in being really useful to his country.
There is an old Canadian scout and trapper, now over eighty years of age, still living, and, what is more, still working at his trade of trapping. His name is Bill Hamilton. In a book which he lately wrote, called "My Sixty Years in the Plains," he describes the dangers of that adventurous line of life. The chief danger was that of falling into the hands of the Red Indians. "To be taken prisoner was to experience a death not at all to be desired. A slow fire is merciful beside other cruelties practised by the Indians. I have often been asked why we exposed ourselves to such danger? My answer has always been that there was a charm in the open-air life of a scout from which one cannot free himself after he has once come under its spell. Give me the man who has been raised among the great things of Nature; he cultivates truth, independence, and self-reliance; he has generous impulses; he is true to his friends, and true to the flag of his country."
I can fully endorse what this old scout has said, and, what is more, I find that those men who come from the furthest frontiers of the Empire, from what we should call a rude and savage life, are among the most generous and chivalrous of their race, especially towards women and weaker folk. They become "gentle men" by their contact with nature.
Mr. Roosevelt, the President of the United States of America, also is one who believes in outdoor life, and he indulges in it himself on every possible occasion when his duties allow. He writes:
"I believe in outdoor games, and I do not mind in the least that they are rough games, or that those who take part in them are occasionally injured. I have no sympathy with the overwrought sentiment which would keep a young man in cotton wool. The out-of-doors man must always prove the better in life's contest. When you play, play hard; and when you work, work hard. But do not let your play and your sport interfere with your study."
I knew an old Boer who after the war said that he could not live in the country with the British, so he went off to take service with the German troops which were at that time fighting in the neighbouring district of South West Africa. But after some months he came back and said that after all he preferred to be with the British.
He said that one of his reasons for disliking the British was that when they arrived in the country they were so 'stom' as he called it—i.e. so utterly stupid when living on the veldt that they did not know how to look after themselves, to make themselves comfortable in camp, to kill their food or to cook it, and they were always losing their way on the veldt; he allowed that after six months or so the English soldiers got to learn how to manage for themselves fairly well. But when he went to the Germans he found that they were even more 'stom' than the British, with the great difference that they went on being 'stom,' no matter how long they remained in the country. He said they were 'stom' till they died, and they generally died through blundering about at the business end of a mule.
The truth is that, being brought up in a civilised country like England, soldiers and others have no training whatever in looking after themselves out on the veldt, or in the backwoods, and the consequence is that when they go out to a colony or on a campaign they are for a long time perfectly helpless and go through a lot of hardship and trouble which would not occur had they learnt, while boys, how to look after themselves both in camp and when on patrol. They are just a lot of "Tenderfoots."
They have never had to light a fire, or to cook their own food; that has always been done for them. At home, if they wanted water they merely had to turn on the tap, and had no idea of how to set about finding water in a desert place by looking at the grass, or bush, or by scratching at the sand till they began to find signs of dampness; and if they lost their way, or did not know the time, they merely had to "ask a policeman." They had always found houses to shelter them, and beds to lie in. They had never to manufacture these for themselves, nor to make their own boots or clothing. That is why a "tenderfoot" talks of "roughing in camp"; but living in camp for a scout who knows the game is by no means "roughing it." He knows how to make himself comfortable in a thousand small ways, and then when he does come back to civilisation, he enjoys it all the more for having seen a contrast; and even there he can do very much more for himself than the ordinary mortal who has never really learned to provide for his own wants. The man who has had to turn his hand to many things, as the scout does in camp, finds that when he comes into civilisation he is more easily able to obtain employment, because he is ready to turn his hand to whatever kind of work may turn up.
EXPLORATION.
A good form of scout work can be got in Great Britain by scouts going about either as patrols on an exploring expedition, or in pairs like knight-errants of old on a pilgrimage through the country to find people wanting help and to help them. This can equally well be done with bicycles, or, in the winter, by skating along the canals.
Scouts in carrying out such a tramp should never, if possible, sleep under a roof—that is to say, on fine nights they would sleep in the open wherever they may be, or, in bad weather, would get leave to occupy a hay loft or barn.
You should on all occasions take a map with you, and find your way by it, as far as possible, without having to ask the way of passers-by. You would, of course, have to do your daily good turn whenever opportunity presented itself, but besides that, you should do good turns to farmers and others who may allow you the use of their barns, and so on, as a return for their kindness.
As a rule, you should have some object in your expedition, that is to say, if you are a patrol of town boys, you would go off with the idea of scouting some special spot, say a mountain in Scotland or Wales, or a lake in Cumberland, or, possibly, some old castle, or battle-field, or a sea-side beach. Or you may be on your way to join one of the larger camps.
If, on the other hand, you are a patrol from the country, you can make your way up to London, or to a big town, with the idea of going to see its buildings, and its Zoological Gardens, circuses, museums, etc. And you should notice everything as you go along the roads, and remember, as far as possible, all your journey, so that you could give directions to anybody else who wanted to follow that road afterwards. And make a map. Explorers, of course, keep a log or journal giving a short account of each day's journey, with sketches or photos of any interesting things they see.
BOAT CRUISING.
Instead of tramping or cycling, it is also an excellent practice for a patrol to take a boat and make a trip in that way through the country; but none should be allowed in the boat who is not a good swimmer, because accidents are pretty sure to happen, and if all are swimmers, it does not matter; in fact, it is rather a good experience than otherwise.
I once made such a cruise with two of my brothers. We took a small folding-up canvas boat, and went as far up the Thames as we could possibly get till it became so narrow and small a stream that we were continually having to get out and pull our boat over fallen trees and stopped up bits of river. Then we took it on the Avon, which rises near the source of the Thames, but flows to the westward, and here, again, we began where the river was very small, and gradually worked our way down until it developed into a big stream, and so through Bath and Bristol on to the Severn. Then across the Severn, and up the Wye into Wales. We carried with us our tent, stores, and cooking apparatus, so that we were able to live out independent of houses the whole time. A more enjoyable trip could not be imagined, and the expense was very small.
WATERMANSHIP.
It is very necessary for a scout to be able to swim, for he never knows when he may have to cross a river, to swim for his life, or to plunge in to save someone from drowning, so those of you that cannot swim should make it your business to begin at once and learn; it is not very difficult.
Also, a scout should be able to manage a boat, to bring it properly alongside the ship or pier, that is, either by rowing it or steering it in a wide circle so that it comes up alongside with its head pointing the same way as the bow of the ship or towards the current. You should be able to row one oar in time with the rest of the boat's crew, or to scull a pair of oars, or to scull a boat by screwing a single oar over the stern. In rowing, the object of feathering or turning the blade of the oar flat when it is out of the water, is to save it from catching the wind and thereby checking the pace of the boat. You should know how to throw a coil of rope so as to fling it on to another boat or wharf, or how to catch and make fast a rope thrown to you. Also you should know how to make a raft out of any materials that you can get hold of, such as planks, logs, barrels, sacks of straw, and so on, for often you may want to cross a river with your food and baggage where no boats are available, or you may be in a shipwreck where nobody can make a raft for saving themselves. You should also know how to throw a lifebuoy to a drowning man. These things can only be learnt by practice.
As a scout you must know how to fish, else you would find yourself very helpless, and perhaps starving, on a river which is full of food for you if you were only able to catch it.
MOUNTAINEERING.
A good deal of interesting mountaineering can be done in the British Isles if you know where to go; and it is grand sport, and brings out into practice all your scout-craft to enable you to find your way, and to make yourself comfortable in camp.
You are, of course, continually losing your direction because, moving up and down in the deep gullies of the mountain side, you lose sight of the landmarks which usually guide you, so that you have to watch your direction by the sun, and by your compass, and keep on estimating in what direction your proper line of travel lies.
Then, again, you are very liable to be caught in fogs and mists, which are at all times upsetting to the calculations even of men who know every inch of the country. I had such an experience in Scotland last year when, in company with a Highlander who knew the ground, we got lost in the mist. But supposing that he knew the way, I committed myself entirely to his guidance, and after going some distance I felt bound to remark to him that I noticed the wind had suddenly changed, for it had been blowing from our left when we started, and was now blowing hard on our right cheek. However, he seemed in no way nonplussed, and led on. Presently I remarked that the wind was blowing behind us, so that either the wind, or the mountain, or we ourselves were turning round; and eventually it proved as I suggested, that it was not the wind that had turned, or the mountain, it was ourselves who had wandered round in a complete circle, and were almost back at the point we started from within an hour.
Then scouts working on a mountain ought to practise the art of roping themselves together, as mountaineers do on icy slopes to save themselves from falling into holes in the snow and slipping down precipices. When roped together in this way supposing that one man falls, the weight of the others will save him from going down into the depths.
When roped together each man has about 14ft. between himself and the next man. The rope is fastened round his waist by a loop or bowline, the knot being on his left side. Each man has to keep back off the man in front of him so as to keep the rope tight all the time; then if one falls or slips the others lean away from him with all their weight and hold him up till he regains his footing. A loop takes up about 4ft. 6in. of rope and should be a "bowline" at the ends of the rope, and an "overhead knot" or a "middleman's loop" for central men on the rope.
PATROLLING.
Scouts generally go about scouting in pairs, or sometimes singly; if more go together they are called a patrol. When they are patrolling the scouts of a patrol hardly ever move close together, they are spread out so as to see more country and so that if cut off or ambuscaded by an enemy they will not all get caught, some will get away to give information. A patrol of six scouts working in open country would usually move in this sort of formation: in the shape of a kite with the patrol leader in the centre, if going along a street or road the patrol would move in a similar way, but in this formation keep close to the hedges or walls. No. 2 scout is in front, Nos. 3 and 4 to the right and left, No. 5 to the rear, and No. 6 with the leader (No. 1) in the centre.
Patrols when going across open country where they are likely to be seen by enemies or animals should get over it as quickly as possible, i.e., by moving at the scout's pace, walking and running alternately from one point of cover to another. As soon as they are hidden in cover they can rest and look round before making the next move. If as leading scout you get out of sight of your patrol, you should, in passing thick bushes, reeds, etc., break branches or stems of reed and grass every few yards, making the heads point forward to show your path, for in this way you can always find your way back again, or the patrol or anyone coming after you can easily follow you up and they can judge from the freshness of the grass pretty well how long ago it was you passed that way. It is also useful to "blaze" trees—that means take a chip out of the bark with your axe or knife, or chalk marks upon walls, or make marks in the sand, or lay stones, or show which way you have gone by the signs which I have given you.
Patrol in the Open, or on a Road or Street.
NIGHT WORK.
Scouts must be able to find their way equally well by night as by day. In fact, military scouts in the Army work mostly by night in order to keep hidden, and lie up during the day.
But unless they practise it frequently, fellows are very apt to lose themselves by night, distances seem greater, and landmarks are hard to see. Also, you are apt to make more noise than by day, in walking along, by accidently treading on dry sticks, kicking stones, etc.
If you are watching for an enemy at night you have to trust much more to your ears than to your eyes, and also to your nose, for a scout who is well-practised at smelling out things and who has not damaged his sense of smell by smoking, can often smell an enemy a good distance away. I have done it many times myself and found it of the greatest value.
When patrolling at night, scouts keep closer together than by day, and in very dark places, such as woods, etc., they should keep touch with each other by each catching hold of the end of the next scout's staff.
When working singly the scout's staff is most useful for feeling the way in the dark, and pushing aside dry branches, etc.
Scouts working apart from each other in the dark keep up communication by occasionally giving the call of their patrol-animal. Any enemy would thus not be made suspicious.
All scouts have to guide themselves very much by the stars at night.
WEATHER WISDOM.
Weather.—Every scout ought to be able to read signs of the weather, especially when going mountaineering or cruising, and to read a barometer.
He should remember the following points:
Red at night shepherd's delight (i.e., fine day coming).
Red in morning is the shepherd's warning (i.e., rain).
Yellow sunset means wind.
Pale yellow sunset means rain.
Dew and fog in early morning means fine weather.
Clear distant view means rain coming or just past.
Red dawn means fine weather—so does low dawn.
High dawn is when sun rises over a bank of clouds;
high above the horizon means wind.
Soft clouds, fine weather.
Hard edged clouds, wind.
Rolled or jagged, strong wind.
"When the wind's before the rain,
Soon you may make sail again;
When the rain's before the wind,
Then your sheets and halyards mind."
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
PRACTICES.
Practise roping scouts together for mountain climbing. Practise (if boats available) coming alongside, making fast, sculling, punting, laying oars, coiling ropes, etc., and other details of boat management. Read barometer.
GAMES IN LIFE IN THE OPEN.
Night Patrolling.
Practise scouts to hear and see by night by posting some sentries, who must stand or walk about, armed with rifles and blank cartridges, or with whistles. Other scouts should be sent out as enemies to stalk and kill them. If a sentry hears a sound he fires, calls, or whistles. Scouts must at once halt and lie still. The umpire comes to the sentry and asks which direction the sound came from, and, if correct, the sentry wins. If the stalker can creep up within 15 yards of the sentry without being seen, he deposits some article, such as a handkerchief, on the ground at that point, and creeps away again. Then he makes a noise for the sentry to fire at, and when the umpire comes up, he can explain what he has done.
GAMES.
A Whale Hunt.
The whale is made of a big log of wood with a roughly shaped head and tail to represent a whale. Two boats will usually carry out the whale hunt, each boat manned by one patrol—the patrol leader acting as captain, the corporal as bowman or harpooner, the remainder of the patrol as oarsmen. Each boat belongs to a different harbour, the two harbours being about a mile apart. The umpire takes the whale and lets it loose about halfway between the two harbours, and on a given signal, the two boats race out to see who can get to the whale first. The harpooner who first arrives within range of the whale drives his harpoon into it, and the boat promptly turns round and tows the whale to its harbour. The second boat pursues, and when it overtakes the other, also harpoons the whale, turns round, and endeavours to tow the whale back to its harbour. In this way the two boats have a tug-of-war, and eventually the better boat tows the whale, and, possibly, the opposing boat into its harbour. It will be found that discipline and strict silence and attention to the captain's orders are very strong points towards winning the game. It shows, above all things, the value of discipline. The game is similar to one described in E. Thompson Seton's "Birchbark of the Woodcraft Indians."
A Whale Hunt.
Mountain Scouting.
This has been played by tourists' clubs in the Lake District, and is very similar to the "Spider and Fly" game. Three hares are sent out at daybreak to hide themselves about in the mountains; after breakfast a party of hounds go out to find them before a certain hour, say 4 p.m. If they find them, even with field glasses, it counts, provided that the finder can say definitely who it was he spotted. Certain limits of ground must be given, beyond which anyone would be out of bounds, and therefore disqualified.
BOOKS ON LIFE IN THE OPEN.
"A Woman Tenderfoot," by Mrs. Ernest Thompson Seton. 5s. (Published by Doubleday.) A book of outdoor adventures and hints for camping for women and girls.
"Two Little Savages," by Ernest Thompson Seton. 6s. (Published by A. Constable & Co.)
"Mountaineering." Badminton Library Series.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 15.
PATHFINDING.
Finding the Way—Judging Distances—Finding the North.
Among the Red Indian scouts the man who was good at finding his way in a strange country was termed a "Pathfinder," which was with them a name of great honour, because a scout who cannot find his way is of very little use.
Many a tenderfoot has got lost in the veldt or forest, and has never been seen again, through not having learned a little scouting, or what is called "eye for a country," when a boy. I have known many instances of it myself.
In one case a man got off a coach, which was driving through the bush in Matabeleland, for a few minutes, while the mules were being changed. He apparently walked off a few yards into the bush, and when the coach was ready to start they called for him in every direction, and searched for him, but were unable to find him; and at last, the coach being unable to wait any longer, pursued its journey, leaving word for the lost man to be sought for. Full search was made for him; his tracks were followed as far as they could be, in the very difficult soil of that country, but he was not found for weeks afterwards, and then his dead body was discovered nearly fifteen miles away from where he started, and close to the road.
It often happens that when you are tramping along alone through the bush, or even in a town, you become careless in noticing what direction you are moving in; that is, you frequently change it to get round a fallen tree, or some rocks, or some other obstacle, and having passed it, you do not take up exactly the correct direction again, and a man's inclination somehow is to keep edging to his right, and the consequence is that when you think you are going straight, you are really not doing so at all; and unless you watch the sun, or your compass, or your landmarks, you are very apt to find yourself going round in a big circle after a short time.
In such a case a tenderfoot, when he suddenly finds himself out of his bearings, and lost alone in the desert or forest, at once loses his head and gets excited, and probably begins to run, when the right thing to do is to force yourself to keep cool and give yourself something useful to do—that is, to track your own spoor back again; or, if you fail, start getting firewood for making signal fires to direct those who are looking for you.
The main point is not to get lost in the first instance.
Every old scout on first turning out in the morning notices which way the wind is blowing.
When you start out for a walk or on patrol, you should notice which direction, by the compass, you start in, and also notice which direction the wind is blowing, as that would be a great help to you in keeping your direction, especially if you have not got a compass, or if the sun is not shining.
Then you should notice all landmarks for finding your way, that is, in the country notice any hills or prominent towers, steeples, curious trees, rocks, gates, mounds, bridges, and so on; any points, in fact, by which you could find your way back again, or by which you could instruct anyone to go the same line which you have gone. If you notice your landmarks going out you can always find your way back by them, but you should take care occasionally to look back at them after passing them, so that you get to know their appearance for your return journey. The same holds good when you are in a town, or when you arrive in a new town by train; the moment you step out from the station notice where the sun is, or which way the smoke is blowing. Also notice your landmarks, which would be prominent buildings, churches, factory chimneys, names of streets and shops, etc., so that when you have gone down numerous streets you can turn round and find your way back again to the station without any difficulty. It is wonderfully easy when you have practised it a little, yet many people get lost when they have turned a few corners in a town which they do not know.
The way to find which way the wind is blowing if there is only very light air is to throw up little bits of dry grass, or to hold up a handful of light dust and let it fall, or to suck your thumb and wet it all round and let the wind blow on it, and the cold side of it will then tell you which way the wind is blowing. When you are acting as scout to find the way for a party you should move ahead of them and fix your whole attention on what you are doing, because you have to go by the very smallest signs, and if you get talking and thinking of other things you are very apt to miss them. Old scouts are generally very silent people, from having got into this habit of fixing their attention on the work in hand. Very often you see a "tenderfoot" out for the first time, thinking that the leading scout looks lonely, will go and walk or ride alongside of him and begin a conversation, until the scout shows him by his manner or otherwise that he does not particularly want him there. On Thames steamers you see a notice, "Don't speak to the man at the wheel," and the same thing applies with a scout who is guiding a party. When acting as scout you must keep all your thoughts on the one subject, like Kim did when Lurgan tried to mesmerise him.
JUDGING HEIGHTS AND DISTANCES.
Every scout must be able to judge distance from an inch up to a mile and more. You ought, first of all, to know exactly what is the span of your hand and the breadth of your thumb, and the length from your elbow to your wrist, and the length from one hand to the other with your arms stretched out to either side, and also the length of your feet; if you remember these accurately they are a great help to you in measuring things. Also it is useful to cut notches on your staff, showing such measurements as one inch, six inches, one foot, and one yard. These you can measure off with a tape measure before you use your staff, and they may come in very useful.
Judging the distance of objects from you is only gained by practice, and judging the distance of a journey is generally estimated by seeing how long you have been travelling, and at what rate; that is to say, supposing you walk at the rate of four miles an hour, if you have been walking for an hour and a half you know that you have done about six miles.
Distance can also be judged by sound; that is to say, if you see a gun fired in the distance, and you count the number of seconds between the flash and the sound of the explosion reaching you, you will be able to tell how far off you are from the gun.
Sound travels at the rate of 365 feet in a second; that is, as many feet as there are days in the year.
A scout must also be able to estimate heights, from a few inches up to two or three thousand feet or more; that is to say, he ought to be able to judge the height of a fence, the depth of a ditch, or the height of an embankment, of a house, tree, of a tower, or hill, or mountain. It is easy to do when once you have practised it for a few times, but it is very difficult to teach it by book.
You must also know how to estimate weights, from a letter of an ounce, or a fish, or a potato of one pound, or a sack of bran, or a cartload of coals; and also the probable weight of a man from his appearance—these, again, are only learnt by practice, but as a scout you should take care to learn them for yourself.
Also you should be able to judge of numbers; that is to say, you should be able to tell at a glance about how many people are in a group, or on a 'bus, or in a big crowd, how many sheep in a flock, how many marbles on a tray, and so on. These you can practise for yourself at all times in the street or field.
In the German Army instructions for judging distance are given as follows:
At fifty yards, mouth and eyes of the enemy can be clearly seen.
At 100 yards, eyes appear as dots; 200 yards, buttons and details of uniform can still be seen. At 300 yards, face can be seen; at 400 yards, the movement of the legs can be seen; at 500 yards the colour of the uniform can be seen.
For distances over these, think out for yourself which point is halfway to the object. Estimate how far this may be from you, and then double it to obtain the distance. Or another way is to estimate the furthest distance that the object can be away, and then the very nearest it could be, and strike a mean between the two.
Objects appear nearer than they really are: First, when the light is bright and shining on the object; secondly, when looking across water or snow, or looking uphill or down. Objects appear further off when in the shade; across a valley; when the background is of the same colour; when the observer is lying down or kneeling; when there is a heat haze over the ground.
FINDING THE NORTH.
Every sailor boy knows the points of the compass by heart and so should a scout. I have talked a good deal about the north, and you will understand that it is a most important help to a scout in pathfinding to know the direction of the north.
If you have not a compass the sun will tell you by day where the north is, and the moon and the stars by night.
At six o'clock in the morning the sun is due east, at nine o'clock he is south-east, at noon he is south, at three o'clock in the afternoon he is south-west, and at six o'clock he is due west. In winter he will have set long before six o'clock, but he will not have reached due west when he is set.
The Phoenicians who sailed round Africa in ancient times noticed that when they started the sun rose on their left-hand side—they were going south. Then they reported that they got to a strange country where the sun got up in the wrong quarter, namely, on their right-hand. The truth was that they had gone round the Cape of Good Hope and were steering north again up the east side of Africa.
Directions.
To find the south at any time of day by the sun—hold your watch flat, face upwards, so that the sun shines on it. Turn it round till the hour hand points at the sun. Then, without moving the watch, lay the edge of a piece of paper or a pencil across the face of the watch so that it rests on the centre of the dial and points out halfway between the Figure XII. and the hour hand. The line given by that pencil will be the true south and north line.
(Instructor should make each boy find the south for himself with a watch).
The Stars.—The stars appear to circle over us during the night, which is really due to our earth turning round under them.
There are various groups which have got names given to them because they seem to make some kind of pictures or "sky-signs" of men and animals.
The "Plough" is an easy one to find, being shaped something like a plough. And it is the most useful one for a scout to know, because in the northern part of the world it shows him exactly where the north is. The Plough is also called the "Great Bear," and the four stars in the curve make its tail. It is the only bear I know of that wears a long tail.
Great Bear.
The two stars in the Plough called the "Pointers" point out where the North or Pole Star is. All the stars and constellations move round, as I have said, during the night, but the Pole Star remains fixed in the north. There is also the "Little Bear" near the Great Bear, and the last star in his tail is the North or Pole Star.
The sky may be compared to an umbrella over you. The pole star is where the stick goes through the centre of it.
A real umbrella has been made with all the stars marked on it in their proper places. If you stand under it and twist it slowly round you see exactly how the stars quietly go round, but the Pole Star remains steady in the middle.
Then another set of stars or "constellation," as it is called, represents a man wearing a sword and belt, and is named "Orion." It is easily recognised by the three stars in line, which are the belt, and three smaller stars in another line, close by which are the sword. Then two stars to right and left below the sword are his feet, while two more above the belt are his shoulders, and a group of three small stars between them make his head.
Now the great point about Orion is that by him you always can tell which way the north or Pole Star lies, and which way the south, and you can see him whether you are in the south or the north part of the world. The Great Bear you only see when you are in the north, and the Southern Cross when you are in the south.
If you draw a line, by holding up your staff against the sky, from the centre star of Orion's belt through the centre of his head, and carry that line on through two big stars till it comes to a third, that third one is the North or Pole star.
Then if you draw a line the other way, beginning again with the centre star of the belt, and passing through the centre star of the sword your line goes through another group of stars shaped like the letter L. And if you go about as far again past L, you come to the South Pole, which unfortunately is not marked by any star.
Roughly, Orion's sword—the three small stars—points north and south.
The Zulu scouts call Orion's belt and sword the "Ingolubu," or three pigs pursued by three dogs. The Masai in East Africa say that the three stars in Orion's belt are three bachelors being followed by three old maids. You see scouts all know Orion, though under different names.
Orion and his sword always point North and South.
On the south side of the world, that is in South Africa, South America, and Australia, the Plough or Great Bear is not visible, but the Southern Cross is seen. The Southern Cross is a good guide as to where the exact south is, which, of course, tells a scout just as much as the Great Bear in the north pointing to the North Star.
Southern Cross.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
PRACTICES IN PATHFINDING.
Teach the boys to recognise the Great Bear and the Pole Star, and Orion; to judge time by the sun; find the south by the watch. Practise map reading and finding the way by the map; and mark off roads by blazing, broken branches, and signs drawn on the ground. Practise judging distance, heights and weights, and numbers.
The way to estimate the distance across a river is to take an object X, such as a tree or rock on the opposite bank; start off at right angles to it from A, and pace, say, ninety yards along your bank; on arriving at sixty yards, plant a stick or stone, B; on arriving at C, thirty yards beyond that, that is ninety from the start, turn at right angles and walk inland, counting your paces until you bring the stick and the distant tree in line; the number of paces that you have taken from the bank C D will then give you the half distance across A X.
Distance.
Height.
To find the height of an object, such as a tree (A X), or a house, pace a distance of, say, eight yards away from it, and there at B plant a stick, say, six feet high; then pace on until you arrive at a point where the top of the stick comes in line C with the top of the tree; then the whole distance A C from the foot is to A X, the height of the tree, the same as the distance B C, from the stick, is to the height of the stick; that is if the whole distance A C is thirty-three feet, and the distance B C from the stick is nine (the stick being six feet high), the tree is twenty-two feet high.
Mr. G. L. Boundy, of Exeter, has been practising his boys in judging distances in the following manner:
He has a board put up on which are given the actual distances and heights and measurements of the various streets and buildings round about with which they are well acquainted. This gives the boys a standard to work upon, and they then go out and guess heights and distances, and other objects given to them by Mr. Boundy, who has previously ascertained their correct measurements by inquiry or otherwise. In this way they are able to learn a good deal of the subject in the immediate neighbourhood in the middle of the town.
It is often useful for the instructor, if he has a bicycle, to measure a number of distances beforehand by running over them and counting the revolutions of his wheel. He can then make the boys guess those distances, and can check them, knowing the correct distance himself.
GAMES IN PATHFINDING.
Instructor takes a patrol in patrolling formation into a strange town or into an intricate piece of strange country, with a cycling map. He then gives instructions as to where he wants to go to, makes each scout in turn lead the patrol, say for seven minutes if cycling, fifteen minutes if walking. This scout is to find the way entirely by the map, and marks are given for ability in reading, that is to say, each scout is given ten marks on starting, and one is deducted for every mistake that he makes. If he makes no mistake at all throughout the exercise, his ten small marks will count as one real scout mark towards a badge "of merit."
Star-gazing.—Take out the scouts on clear nights and post them separately, and let each find the North Star and Orion, etc., and point them out to you as you come round.
Judging Distance.—Take a patrol and station its members about in different directions and with different background, according to the colour of their clothes; then take another patrol to judge distance of these points. Two competitors are sent in turn to three different points. At the first point they are merely given the compass bearing of the next one, which is some three hundred yards distant, and so on in succession. At each point each pair of scouts notices regarding the enemy—first, how many visible; second, how far off; third, what is their compass direction; fourth, how they are clothed. The best answers win provided they are within the specified time. The time allowed should be one minute for observation at each station, and half a minute for each bit of running.
Find the North.—Scouts are posted thirty yards apart, and each lays down his staff on the ground pointing to what he considers the exact north (or south), without using any instrument. The umpire compares each stick with the compass; the one who guesses nearest wins. This is a useful game to play at night or on sunless days as well as sunny days.
Other Games.—For further games in "Pathfinding," see Appendix, Part VI.
BOOKS TO READ.
"Guide to the Umbrella Star Map," by D. MacEwan, member of the British Astronomical Association, 1s. "The Umbrella Star Map," made by Reid & Todd, 215, Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow. (An ordinary umbrella with all the stars in their proper places on the inside. This map can be correctly set for any day in the year and any hour, showing the approximate positions of the stars.)
"The Science Year Book," by Major Baden-Powell. 5s. King, Sell & Olding, 27, Chancery Lane.
"An Easy Guide to the Constellations," by the Rev. James Gall. 1s. (Gall & Inglis.) Contains diagrams of the constellations.
"Astronomy for Everybody," by Simon Newcomb. 6s. (Publisher, Isbister.) Also books on astronomy by Professors Ball, Heath, Maunder, and Flammarion.
CAMP FIRE YARN.—No. 16.
INFORMATION BY SIGNAL.
Hidden Despatches—Signalling—Whistle and Flag-Signals.
Scouts have to be very clever at passing news secretly from one place to another, or signalling to each other; and if it should ever happen that an enemy got into England, the Boy Scouts would be of greatest value if they have practised this art.
Before the siege of Mafeking commenced, I received a secret message from some unknown friend in the Transvaal, who sent me news of the Boers' plans against the place, and the numbers that they were getting together of men, horses, and guns. This news came to me by means of a very small letter which was rolled up in a little ball, the size of a pill, and put inside a tiny hole in a rough walking stick, and plugged in there with wax. The stick was given to a native, who merely had orders to come into Mafeking and give me the stick as a present. Naturally, when he brought me this stick, and said it was from another white man, I guessed there must be something inside it, and soon found this very important letter.
Also I received another letter from a friend, which was written in Hindustani language, but in English writing, so that anybody reading would be quite puzzled as to what language it was written in; but to me it was all as clear as daylight.
Then when we sent letters out from Mafeking, we used to give them to natives, who were able to creep out between the Boer outposts, and once through the line of sentries, the Boers mistook them for their own natives, and took no further notice of them. They carried their letters in this way. The letters were all written on thin paper in small envelopes, and half a dozen letters or more would be crumpled up tightly into a little ball, and then rolled up into a piece of lead paper, such as tea is packed in. The native scout would carry a number of these little balls in his hand, and hanging round his neck loosely by strings. Then, if he saw he was in danger of being captured by a Boer, he would drop all his balls on the ground, where they looked exactly like so many stones, and he would notice landmarks from two or three points round about him, by which he would be able again to find the exact spot where the letters were lying; then he would walk boldly on until accosted by the Boer, who, if he searched him, would have found nothing suspicious about him. He would then wait about for perhaps a day or two until the coast was clear, and come back to the spot where the landmarks told him the letters were lying.
"Landmarks," you may remember, mean any objects, like trees, mounds, rocks, or other details which do not move away, and act as signposts for a scout who notices and remembers them.
SIGNALLING.
Captain John Smith was one of the first to make use of signals to express regular words, three hundred years ago.
He was then fighting on the side of the Austrians against the Turks. He thought it wicked for Christian men to fight against Christians if it could possibly be avoided, but he would help any Christian, although a foreigner, to fight against a heathen; so he joined the Austrians against the Turks.
He invented a system of showing lights at night with torches, which when held in certain positions with each other meant certain words.
Several officers in the Austrian forces practised these signals till they knew them.
On one occasion one of these officers was besieged by the Turks. John Smith brought a force to help him, and arrived on a hill near the town in the night. Here he made a number of torch signals, which were read by the officer inside, and they told him what to do when Smith attacked the enemy in the rear; and this enabled the garrison to break out successfully.
In the American Civil War, Captain Clowry, a scout officer, wanted to give warning to a large force of his own army that the enemy were going to attack it unexpectedly during the night, but he could not get to his friends, because there was a flooded river between them which he could not cross, and a storm of rain was going on.
What would you have done if you had been him?
A good idea struck him. He got hold of an old railway engine that was standing near him. He lit the fire, and got up steam in her, and then started to blow the whistle with short and long blasts—what is called the Morse alphabet. Soon his friends heard and understood, and answered back with a bugle. And he then spelt out a message of warning to them, which they read and acted upon. And so their force of 20,000 men was saved from surprise.
Lieutenant Boyd-Alexander describes in his book "From the Niger to the Nile," how a certain tribe of natives in Central Africa signal news to each other by means of beats on a drum. And I have known tribes in the forests of the West Coast of Africa who do the same.
Morse and Semaphore Codes.
Morse and Semaphore Codes.
Every scout ought to learn the "dot and dash" or Morse method of signalling, because it comes in most useful whenever you want to send messages some distance by flag signalling, as in the Army and Navy, and it is also useful in getting you employment as a telegraphist. It is not difficult to learn if you set about it with a will. I found it most useful once during the Boer War. My column had been trying to get past a Boer force who was holding a pass in the mountains. Finding they were too strong for us, we gave it up late in the evening, and leaving a lot of fires alight as if we were in camp in front of them, we moved during the night by a rapid march right round the end of the mountain range, and by daylight next day we were exactly in rear of them without their knowing it. We then found a telegraph line evidently leading from them to their headquarters some fifty miles further off, so we sat down by the telegraph wire and attached our own little wire to it and read all the messages they were sending, and they gave us most valuable information. But we should not have been able to do that had it not been that some of our scouts could read the Morse code.
Then the semaphore signalling, which is done by waving your arms at different angles to each other, is most useful and quite easy to learn, and is known by every soldier and sailor in the service. Here you have all the different letters, and the different angles at which you have to put your arms to represent those letters, and though it looks complicated in the picture, when you come to work it out, you will find it is very simple.
For all letters from A to G the right arm only is used, making a quarter of a circle for each letter in succession. Then from H to N (except J), the right arm stands at A, while the left moves round the circle again for the other letters. From O to S the right arm stands at B, and the left arm moves round as before. For T, V, Y, and the "annul" the right arm stands at C, the left moving to the next point of the circle successively.
The letters A to K also mean figures 1 to 9, if you first make the sign Y to show that you are going to send numbers.
If you want to write a despatch that will puzzle most people to read, use the Morse or Semaphore letters in place of the ordinary alphabet. It will be quite readable to any of your friends who understand signalling.
Also if you want to use a secret language in your patrol you should all set to work to learn "Esperanto." It is not difficult, and is taught in a little book costing one penny. This language is being used in all countries so that you would be able to get on with it abroad now.
WHISTLE AND FLAG SIGNALS.
Each patrol leader should provide himself with a whistle and a lanyard or cord for keeping it. The following commands and signals should be at your finger ends, so that you can teach them to your patrol, and know how to order it properly.
Words of Command.
"Fall in" (in line).
"Alert" (stand up smartly).
"Easy" (stand at ease).
"Stand easy" (sit or lie down without leaving the ranks).
"Dismiss" (break off).
"Right" (or left); (each scout turns accordingly).
"Patrol right" (or left); (each patrol with its scouts in line wheels to that hand).
"Quick march" (walk smartly, stepping off on the left foot).
"Double" (run at smart pace, arms hanging loose).
"Scouts' Pace" (walk fifty yards and run fifty yards alternately).
Signals and Signs.
When a scoutmaster wants to call his troop together he makes his bugler sound the "The Scout's Call."
Patrol leaders thereupon call together their patrols by sounding their whistles, followed by their patrol (animal) war cry. Then they double their patrol to the scoutmaster.
Whistle Signals are these: One long blast means: "Silence;" "Alert;" "Look out for my next signal."
1. A succession of long slow blasts means: "Go out;" "Get further away;" or "Advance;" "Extend;" "Scatter."
2. A succession of short, sharp blasts means: "Rally;" "Close in;" "Come together;" "Fall in."
3. A succession of short and long blasts alternately means: "Alarm;" "Look out;" "Be ready;" "Man your alarm posts."
4. Three short blasts followed by one long one, from scoutmaster calls up the patrol leaders—i.e. "Leaders come here!"
Any whistle signal must be instantly obeyed at the double as fast as ever you can run—no matter what other job you may be doing at the time.
Hand Signals, which can also be made by patrol leaders with their patrol flags when necessary.
Hand waved several times across the face from side to side, or flag waved horizontally from side to side opposite the face means: "No; Never mind; As you were."
Hand or flag held high, and waved very slowly from side to side at full extent of arm, or whistle a succession of slow blasts means: "Extend; Go further out; Scatter."
Hand or flag held high and waved quickly from side to side at full extent of arm, or whistle a succession of short, quick blasts means: "Close in; Rally; Come here."
Hand or flag pointing in any direction means: "Go in that direction."
Hand or flag jumped rapidly up and down several times, means: "Run."
Hand or flag held straight up over head, means: "Stop;" "Halt."
When a leader is shouting an order or message to a scout who is some way off, the scout, if he hears what is being said, should hold up his hand level with his head all the time. If he cannot hear he should stand still making no sign. The leader will then repeat louder or beckon to the scout to come in nearer.
The following signals are made by a scout with his staff when he is sent out to reconnoitre within sight of his patrol, and they have the following meanings: Staff held up horizontally, that is flat with both hands above the head, means "a few enemy in sight."
The same, but with staff moved up and down slowly, means "a number of enemy in sight, a long way off."
The same, staff moved up and down rapidly means "a number of enemy in sight, and close by."
The staff held straight up over the head means "no enemy in sight."
PRACTICES IN SIGNALLING.
Practice laying, lighting, and use of signal fires of smoke or flame.
Practice whistle and drill signals.
Teach Semaphore and Morse Codes; also Esperanto if feasible.
Encourage competitive ingenuity in concealing despatches on the person.
HINTS TO INSTRUCTORS.
In all games and competitions, it should be arranged as far as possible that all the scouts should take part, because we do not want to have merely one or two brilliant performers, and the others no use at all. All ought to get practice, and all ought to be pretty good. In competitions where there are enough entries to make heats, ties should be run off by losers instead of the usual system of by winners, and the game should be to find out which are the worst instead of which are the best. Good men will strive just as hard not to be worst, as they would to gain a prize, and this form of competition gives the bad man most practice.
MARKS TOWARDS BADGES OF HONOUR IN CAMPAIGNING.
Making a complete model bridge. Up to four marks.
Lay and light the following fires separately, using only six matches for the whole: First, cooking fire, and cook a bannock. Second, flame signal fire and make signals. Third, smoke signal fire and make signals. Marks up to three.
To measure without instruments, within ten per cent. of correctness, three different widths of river, or impassable ground, without crossing it. Heights of three different trees or buildings. Number of sheep in a flock, stones on a table, etc. Weights of four different things from one ounce up to one hundred pounds. Four distances between one inch and one mile. Marks up to five for the whole lot.
DISPATCH RUNNING.
A scout is given a dispatch to take to the headquarters of a besieged town, which may be a real town (village, farm, or house), and he must return with a receipt for it. He must wear a coloured rag 2ft. long pinned on to his shoulder. He must start at least four miles away from the town he is going to. Besiegers who have to spot him can place themselves where they like, but must not go nearer to the headquarters' building than three hundred yards. (Best to give certain boundaries that they know or can recognise.) Anyone found within that limit by the umpire will be ruled out as shot by the defenders at headquarters. The dispatch runner can use any ruse he likes, except dressing up as a woman, but he must always wear the red rag on his shoulder. To catch him, the enemy must get the red rag from him. Ten hours may be allowed as the limit of time, by which the dispatch runner should get his message to headquarters and get back again to the starting-point with the receipt. This game may also be made a life-and-death venture, in which case any scout who volunteers to risk his life (i.e. his scout's badge) in getting through with a dispatch, gains the badge "For Merit" if he wins; but if he fails, he loses his scout's badge (fleurs-de-lis), and cannot get it again, although he may still remain a member of the corps. The enemy win three marks each if they spot him, and lose three marks if he succeeds. To win a badge of merit there must be not less than two patrols out against him. A similar game can be played in a city, but requires modifications to suit the local conditions.
For Exploration Practice, see Appendix, Part VI., for imitating exploring expedition in Africa, Arctic regions, etc.
DISPLAY.
Act a scene of castaways on a desert island. They make camp fire: pick seaweed, grass, roots, etc., and cook them: Make pots, etc., out of clay: Weave mats out of grass: Build raft, and if water is available get afloat in it: put up a mast and grass mat sail, etc.: and punt or sail away, or can be rescued by sighting ship and making smoke signals or getting a boat's crew of sailors to come and fetch them.
SCOUTING FOR BOYS.
CONTENTS OF PARTS IV., V., and VI.
PART IV.
Endurance and Health.
Chivalry and Brave Deeds.
Discipline.
PART V.
Saving Life and First-Aid.
Patriotism and Loyalty.
PART VI.
Scouting Games, Competitions, and Plays.
Words to Instructors.
WHAT PARTS I. and II. CONTAIN.
Part I.—SCOUTCRAFT.
Special Foreword for Instructors.—The Boy
Scouts scheme and its easy application to all existing
organisations.
Scoutcraft.—Its wide uses and wide interest.
Summary of Scout's Course of Instruction,
showing the scope of Scout's work.
Organisation.—Dress, secret signs, scouts' songs,
and tests for badges of honour.
Scouts' Law and Scouts' Honour under the
guiding motto "Be Prepared."
Scouting Games and Practices for indoors and
out of doors, in town and in country.
Part II.—TRACKING and WOODCRAFT.
Observation and its value; how to use your eyes,
nose, and ears, and how to follow a night trail.
Spooring.—Tracks of men and animals and games
in tracking.
Reading "Sign" and making deductions from it.
Woodcraft.—How to stalk and how to hide properly.
Animals.—How to stalk and know them—a better
game than stamp collecting.
Birds, Fishes, and Insects all scouts should know.
Plants and Trees.
Games and Competitions in Tracking, Stalking, and
Woodcraft.
Part IV. Fortnightly. Price 4d. net.
Scouting
For Boys
(LIEUT. GEN. BADEN POWELL C.B.)
The Boy Scout in Action.
Published by Horace Cox, Windsor House, Bream's Buildings, London, e.c.
Scouting for Boys.
A HANDBOOK FOR INSTRUCTION
IN
GOOD CITIZENSHIP,
by
Lieut.-General R. S. S. BADEN-POWELL, C.B., F.R.G.S.
All communications should be addressed to—
Lieut.-General BADEN-POWELL,
Boy Scouts' Office,
Goschen Buildings,
Henrietta Street,
LONDON, W.C.
by whom Scouts will be enrolled, and from where
all further information can be obtained.
Copyrighted by Lieut.-General R. S. S. Baden-Powell, C.B., F.R.G.S.
1908.