CONTENTS.

Chap.		Page
I.	Setting Out—Accommodations—Arrival at Sisal—Geographical and Political view of Yucatan—A Christening—Lady Smokers—Off for the Interior—Merida—A Feast-day—Christmas Eve—Christmas Day—Conclusion of a Feast—Holy Unction—Indian Character—Soldiers’ Return—Holy Days—Gaming	[13]

II	Description of Merida, Geographical and Historical—The City—Public Squares—The Market—Trade—Habits and Customs—Health—The Public Buildings—A way to get a Husband—New Year Eve—New Year Day—The City and Environs—A Touch of Music—A Country Seat—Congress of Yucatan—Franciscan Ruins—More Holy-days—Cock-fighting—A Drill—The Bishop at Home—The College—Miracles	[34]

III	Mechanical Pursuits—The Circulating Medium—A Ball—A Remnant of Franciscans—Signs of Decay in the Suburbs—The Cemetery—The Weather—A Whole Congregation Flogged—The Wise Men—The Gentlemen—Extra Civilities—The Appearances of Trade—Products of the Soil—Education—Language of the Indians—The Ancient People—Waldeck’s Opinion of them—The Maya Language—The Lord’s Prayer in Maya—Grammars of that Dialect—Difficulties in Speaking it—Traits of the Indian Character	[53]

IV	Preparations for the Interior—Outfit, &c.—The Indian Boy—Departure from Merida—Arrival at Tixcoco—Calcachen—A Feast-day—Isamal at a distance—Arrival there—Our Palace—A Procession—Ancient Mounds—The Church—A striking Indian—Wrong Impressions—Tuncax—A Dilemma—Philosophy of the Road-side—A Dinner—Visit to a Curate—A Touch of Comfort—Mail Carrier—Sitax—An Indian Alcalde—Tinum—An Allusion—Valladolid—A Mistake rectified in time	[73]

V	Festival of the Purification—A Factory discovered—New Quarters—Appearance of Public Buildings—Church—Singular Display of Taste—Population and Health—The Town—Its Suburbs—Monastic Ruins—Remarkable Sonato—Amusements—The Riband Dance—The Market Place—Cotton—Ancient Ruins—Difficulties of Strangers—A Norther—Kaua—The Churlish Curate—End of a Feast—The Route—Approach to Chi-Chen—A Glimpse of the Ruins	[91]

VI	A Visit to the Ruins—Reflections—Indian Visiters—Detail of the Ruins of Chi-Chen—The Temple—The Pyramid—The Dome—The House of the Caciques—General Ruins—Mounds—Foundations—Characteristics of the Ruins—Materials and Manner of Building—The Finish—Fresco Paintings	[108]

VII	An Arrival—Unexpected Honors—Usurpation of Office—Prices of Labor—Indian way of Living—A Sonato—An Incident—Departure—Yacaba—Sonato at Tabi—Arrival at Sotuta—“Las Ruinas”—A Benediction—Cantamayec—Turn Physician—Successful Practice—The Reward of Merit—Route to Teabo—Its Curate—Mani—Arrival at Ticul—Description of Ticul—The Church—Curate—Market-place—Pretty Women—Convent—Occupations—Health—Roads—Sugar Estates—Ruins of Ichmul—Departure—Cross the Cordilleras	[129]

VIII	The Ruins of Kahbah—Those of Zayi—Scattered Ruins—Church at Nohcacab—The Padre—The Town—Departure for Uxmal—Arrival at the Hacienda—Quarters and Arrangements—The Scenery—General Character of the Ruins of Uxmal—The Governor’s House—The Nuns’ House—The Pyramid—Other Remains—Pyramids, Walls, and Mounds—Reservoir—Moonlight	[148]

IX	Introductory Facts—Ruins of Yucatan and other parts of Mexico—Ruins of North America—Mississippi and Missouri—Look-Out Mountain—Ohio River—Mount Joliet and others—Indian Races—Ledyard—Bradford—Dr. Morton—Diversity of Opinions—Pyramids of Egypt—Speculations—Vassalage—Comparison—Traditions—Embalming—Priesthood— Siamese—Japanese—Astronomy and Mythology	[168]

X	Waldeck’s Remarks on Uxmal—Ancient Tools—Soil and Health—Ancient Customs—End of Time—The Coronation of an Emperor—Religious Beliefs—Marriage Ceremony—Infant Baptism—Origin of those Rites—Horse Worship—Amusements—Markets—Idols—Candidates for Matrimony—Their Worship Varies—Refinements	[183]

XI	Departure from Uxmal—Abala—The Road—The Curate’s Hacienda—Arrival at Merida—Hotel de Diligencias—Bishop Preaching—Strange Scenes—Parting with José—Departure from Merida—Coach and Passengers—Scenes of the Road—Zibackchen—Accommodations—Arrival at Campeachy	[199]

XII	Reception at Campeachy—The City—Public Buildings—The Convent—The Market—Charity—An Ancient Custom—Population—The College—Foundations of the City—Subterraneous Caverns—The Suburbs—The Harbor—Climate and Health—Various Ruins—The Author’s Collection of Idols—Dr. Morton on the Archæology of Yucatan—Other Ruins—Reptiles and Insects—A Concealed Nation—The Brothers Camachos	[209]

XIII	Political History of Yucatan—The Rochelanos—A Civil Revolution—A Tumultuary Movement in the Interior—Santiago Iman—Attack on Espita—Retreat to San Fernando—Quiet Restored for a Time—Colonel Roqueña—Attack on Tizimin—Return of the Troops—Attack on Valladolid—Capitulation—Succession of Events—A New Constitution—The New Congress—New Party—Opinions—Physical Incapacity for Independence—The Press of Yucatan	[224]

XIV	Remarks on American Languages in general—Conflicting Opinions of Philologists—Religious Zeal a Stimulus that has produced the Grammars and Vocabularies of the American Languages—Sketch of the Grammar of the Maya Tongue—Concluding Observations respecting its Origin	[236]