The A-B-Z of Cheese
Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk.
A
Aberdeen
Scotland
Soft; creamy mellow.
Abertam
Bohemia (Made near Carlsbad)
Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own.
Absinthe see Petafina.
Acidophilus see Saint-Ivel.
Aettekees
Belgium
November to May—winter-made and eaten.
Affiné, Carré see Ancien Impérial.
Affumicata, Mozzarella see Mozzarella.
After-dinner cheeses see [Chapter 8].
Agricultural school cheeses see College-educated.
Aiguilles, Fromage d'
Alpine France
Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the district where it is made.
Aizy, Cendrée d' see Cendrée.
Ajacilo, Ajaccio
Corsica
Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born.
à la Crème see Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons.
à la Main see Vacherin.
à la Pie see Fromage.
à la Rachette see Bagnes.
Albini
Northern Italy
Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, pleasant-tasting table cheese.
Albula
Switzerland
Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.
Alderney
Channel Islands
The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special breed of cattle
named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate it phonetically—Fromage d'Aurigny.
Alemtejo
Portugal
Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the fromage title. Soft; sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two other Portuguese cheeses—Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da Estrella—and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference in sizes.
Alfalfa see Sage.
Alise Saint-Reine
France
Soft; summer-made.
Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, or Allgäuer Emmentaler
Bavaria
Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse
and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Allgäuer Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgäu were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early 1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their prime.
Allgäuer Rahmkäse
Bavaria
Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the old-time Slipcote of England. Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, Rahmkäse can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in Germany.
Alpe see Fiore di Alpe.
Al Pepe
Italy
Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (see).
Similar to Bel Paese.
Alpestra
Austria
A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.
Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon
France
Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap.
Alpestro
Italy
Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.
Alpin or Clérimbert
Alpine France
The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. The curd is dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks.
Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse
Germany
Soft; goat; small and flat—one to two inches thick, eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.
Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese
Germany
Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.
Altsohl see Brinza.
Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert
Limagne, Auvergne, France
A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the Cantal—Fourme-La Tome tribe.
American, American Cheddar
U.S.A.
Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wiscon
sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the passing of time. See Cheddar states and Cheddar types in [Chapter 4].
Americano Romano
U.S.A.
Hard; brittle; sharp.
Amou
Béarn, France
Winter cheese, October to May.
Anatolian
Turkey
Hard; sharp.
Anchovy Links
U.S.A.
American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy links.
Ancien Impérial
Normandy, France
Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchâtel and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called Carré and has separate names for the new and the old: (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré Affiné, when it has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long—about the same time as Neufchâtel.
Andean
Venezuela
A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of Frailejón Lanudo (Espeletia Schultzii) which imparts to it a characteristic flavor. (Description given in Buen Provecho! by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.)
Andechs
Bavaria
A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes.
Antwerp
Belgium
Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.
Appenzeller
Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden
Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel—a pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.
Appetitost
Denmark
Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in which it is made.
Appetost
Denmark
Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.
A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.
Arber
Bohemia
Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.
Argentine
Argentina
Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding.
Armavir
Western Caucasus
Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese.
Arnauten see Travnik.
Arovature
Italy
Water-buffalo milk.
Arras, Coeurs d' see Coeurs.
Arrigny
Champagne, France
Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are specially well suited to one another.
Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet see Caillebotte.
Artificial Dessert Cheese
In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made by mixing
one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.
Asadero, or Oaxaca
Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico
White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."
Asco
Corsica, France
Made only in the winter season, October to May.
Asiago I, II and III
Vicenza, Italy
Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but have a taste all their own.
I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating.
II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine months old.
III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's fine for grating.
Asin, or Water cheese
Northern Italy
Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert
cheese, frequently eaten with honey and fruit.
Au Cumin
see Münster.
Au Fenouil
see Tome de Savoie.
Au Foin and de Foin
A style of ripening "on the hay." See Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage de Foin.
Augelot
Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France
Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type.
d'Auray see Sainte-Anne.
Aurigny, Fromage d' see Alderney.
Aurillac see Bleu d'Auvergne.
Aurore and Triple Aurore
Normandy, France
Made and eaten all year.
Australian and New Zealand
Australia and New Zealand
Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed.
Autun
Nivernais, France
Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it and this is of special interest in a province where the chief competitors are made of goat's milk.
Auvergne, Bleu d' see Bleu.
Au Vin Blanc, Confits see Epoisses.
Avesnes, Boulette d' see Boulette.
Aydes, les
Orléanais, France
Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June.
Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative ão implies. There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them.
Azeitoso
Portugal
Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.
Azuldoch Mountain
Turkey
Mild and mellow mountain product.
B
Backsteiner
Bavaria
Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. Brick.
Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette
Switzerland
Not only hard but very hard, named from racler, French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.
Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano
Italy
Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type.
Bakers' cheese
Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese.
Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.
Ballakäse or Womelsdorf
Similar to Ball.
Balls, Dutch Red
English name for Edam.
Banbury
England
Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today.
Banick
Armenia
White and sweet.
Banjaluka
Bosnia
Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.
Banon, or les Petits Banons
Provence, France,
Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green leaves.
Bar cheese
U.S.A.
Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of America's cheese industry.
Barbacena
Minas Geraes, Brazil
Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading cheese state of Brazil.
Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes
Champagne, France
Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in diameter and 1¼ inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in summer they are often sold fresh.
Barboux
France
Soft.
Baronet
U.S.A.
A natural product, mild and mellow.
Barron
France
Soft.
Bassillac see Bleu.
Bath
England
Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking cheeses.
Battelmatt
Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western Austria
An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly—in four months —
and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.
Bauden (see also Koppen)
Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia
Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without caraway.
Bavarian Beer cheese see Bayrischer Bierkäse.
Bavarian Cream
German
Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces.
Bavarois à la Vanille see Fromage Bavarois.
Bayonne see Fromage de Bayonne.
Bayrischer Bierkäse
Bavaria
Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, but to dunk in it.
Beads of cheese
Tibet
Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. Also see Money Made of Cheese.
Beagues see Tome de Savoie.
Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu
China, Japan, the Orient
Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet.
Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont
Savoy, France
A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June.
Beaupré de Roybon
Dauphiné, France
A winter specialty made from November to April.
Beckenried
Switzerland
A good mountain cheese from goat milk.
Beer cheese
U.S.A.
While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierkäse is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than eaten.
Beer-Regis
Dorsetshire, England
This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.
Beist-Cheese
Scotland
A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill)
Belarno
Italy
Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.
Belgian Cooked
Belgium
The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed
to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from other forms of cooked cheese.
Beli Sir see Domaci.
Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head
Switzerland
Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around.
See under [Foreign Greats, Chapter 3]. Also see Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese types—French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original.
Bel Paesino
U.S.A.
A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive in every other way.
Bergkäse see Allgäuer.
Bergquara
Sweden
Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century.
Berkeley
England
Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.
Berliner Kuhkäse
Berlin, Germany
Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway.
Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde
Italy
Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for flavor. Cured for two months.
Berques
France
Made of skim milk.
Berry Rennet see Withania.
Bessay, le
Bourbonnais, France
Soft, mild, and creamy.
Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.
Bierkäse
Germany
There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in echt Deutsche American spots such as Milwaukee and Hoboken.
Bifrost
Norway
Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4¼-ounce package.
Binn
Wallis, Switzerland
Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis.
Bitto
Northern Italy
Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has small eyes.
Blanc à la crème see Fromage Blanc.
Blanc see Fromage Blanc I and II.
Bleu
France
Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.
Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu
Auvergne, France
Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille.
Bleu de Bassillac
Limousin, France
Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May.
Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century ago, in 1854.
Bleu de Limousin, Fromage
Lower Limousin
Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin.
Bleu de Salers
France
A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to May.
Bleu, Fromage see Bleu d'Auvergne.
Bleu-Olivet see Olivet.
Blind
The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong to, such as blind Swiss.
Block Edam
U.S.A.
U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of Edam.
Block, Smoked
Austria
The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum.
Bloder, or Schlicker Milch
Switzerland
Sour-milker.
Blue Cheddar see Cheshire-Stilton.
Blue, Danish see Danish Blue.
Blue Dorset see Dorset.
Blue, Jura see Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.
Blue, and Blue with Port Links
U.S.A.
One of the modern American process sausages.
Blue, Minnesota see Minnesota.
Blue Moon
U.S.A.
A process product.
Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset
Dorsetshire, England
A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a different action.
Bocconi Geganti
Italy
Sharp and smoky specialty.
Bocconi Provoloni see Provolone.
Boîte see Fromage de Boîte.
Bombay
India
Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of a cracker.
Bondes see Bondon de Neufchâtel.
Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes
Normandy, France
Nicknamed Bonde à tout bien, from resemblance to the bung in a barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar.
Bondon de Rouen
France
A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to last up to ten days.
When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost in Norway.
Bond Ost
U.S.A.
Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin.
Bon Larron
France
Romantically named "the penitent thief."
Borden's
U.S.A.
A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the leader.
Borelli
Italy
A small water-buffalo cheese.
Bossons Maceres
Provence, France
A winter product, December, January, February and March only.
Boudanne
France
Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months.
Boudes, Boudon
Normandy, France
Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family.
Bougon Lamothe see Lamothe.
Bouillé, la
Normandy France
One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In season October to May.
Boule de Lille
France
Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it.
Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai
Flanders, France
Made from November to May, eaten all year.
Bourgain
France
Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed locally.
Bourgognes see Petits Bourgognes.
Box
Württemberg, Germany
Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft:
I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in wooden boxes.
II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant.
Bra No. I
Piedmont, Italy
Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra.
Bra No. II
Turin and Cuneo, Italy
Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine.
Brand or Brandkäse
Germany
Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while curing.
Brandy see Caledonian, Cream.
Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.
Branja de Cosulet
Rumania
Described by Richard Wyndham in Wine and Food (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be unique among cheeses.
Bratkäse
Switzerland
Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on toast.
Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other names
Germany
Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals.
Breakstone
U.S.A.
Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.
Brésegaut
Savoy, France
Soft, white.
Breslau
Germany
A proud Prussian dessert cheese.
Bressans see les Petits.
Bresse
France
Lightly cooked.
Bretagne see Montauban.
Emmentaler type.
Briançon see Alpin.
Brick see [Chapter 4].
Brickbat
Wiltshire, England
A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton.
Bricotta
Corsica
Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into small luscious cakes.
Brie see [Chapter 3]; also see Cendré and Coulommiers.
Brie Façon
France
The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie véritable that is still made best in its original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France.
see Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France.
Brie de Meaux
France
This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to May.
Brie de Melun
France
This Brie véritable is made not only in the seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin.
Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.
Brillat-Savarin
Normandy, France
Soft, and available all year. Although the author of Physiologie du Goût was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject beyond Le Fondue (see [Chapter 6]), this savory Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.
Brina Dubreala
Rumania
Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.
Brindza
U.S.A.
Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original Brinza.
Brine see Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, Brina Dubreala, Briney.
Briney, or Brined
Syria
Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type.
Brinza, or Brinsen
Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains
Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia.
Brioler see Westphalia.
Briqueton
England
The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.
Brittle see Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.
Brizecon
Savoy, France
Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.
Broccio, or le Brocconis
Corsica, France
Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.
Broodkaas
Holland
Hard, flat, nutty.
Brousses de la Vézubie, les
Nice, France
Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie.
Brussels or Bruxelles
Belgium
Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal districts.
Budapest
Hungary
Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and abroad in Vienna.
A specialty in Dusseldorf.
Bulle
Switzerland
A Swiss-Gruyère.
Bundost
Sweden
Semihard; mellow; tangy.
Burgundy
France
Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully together.
Bushman
Australia
Semihard; yellow; tangy.
Butter and Cheese see [Chapter 8].
"Butter," Serbian see Kajmar.
Buttermilk
U.S. & Europe
Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.
C
Cabeçou, le
Auvergne, France
Small; goat; from Maurs.
Cabrillon
Auvergne, France
So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under the rind.
Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux
Provence Mountains, France
Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to November.
Caciocavallo
Italy
"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. See [Chapter 3].
Caciocavallo Siciliano
Sicily, also in U.S.A.
Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between 17½ and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating.
Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta
Italy
Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten fresh.
Cacio Pecorino Romano see Pecorino.
Cacio Romano see Chiavari.
Caerphilly
Wales and England—Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire
Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses.
Caillebottes (Curds)
France—Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée
Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (see). Other cheeses are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, especially in Portugal.
Caille de Poitiers see Petits pots.
Caille de Habas
Gascony, France
Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.
A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.
Calabrian
Italy
The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo.
Calcagno
Sicily
Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.
Caledonian Cream
Scotland
More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in Scotland's Inner Man: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."
Calvados
France
Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same province.
Calvenzano
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.
Cambrai see Boulette.
Cambridge, or York
England
Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours.
Camembert see [Chapter 3].
"Camembert"
Germany, U.S. & elsewhere
A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert véritable of Normandy.
Camosun
U.S.A.
Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed in
hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.
Canadian Club
see Cheddar Club.
Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" de fromage tres fort
Franche-Comté, France
Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.
Canestrato
Sicily, Italy
Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for Italian settlers.
Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and La Tome.
Auvergne, France
Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.
Capitanata
Italy
Sheep.
Caprian
Capri, Italy
Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, and tangy as a buck.
Caprino (Little Goat)
Argentina
Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.
Caraway Loaf
U.S.A.
This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.
Cardiga, Queijo da
Portugal
Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so.
Carlsbad
Bohemia
Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.
Carré Affiné
France
Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and Ancien Impérial (see).
Carré de l'Est
France
Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.
Cascaval Penir
Turkey
Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.
Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.
Casere
Greece
Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California.
Cashera
Armenia and Greece
Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and high in quality.
Cashera
Turkey
Semihard; sheep.
Casher Penner see Kasher.
Cashkavallo
Syria
Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo.
Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca
Sardinia
Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.
Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo see Feta.
Caspian
Caucasus
Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting.
Cassaro
Italy
Locally consumed, seldom exported.
Castelmagno
Italy
Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.
Castelo Branco, White Castle
Portugal
Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da Estrella (see).
Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony
France
Fresh cream cheese.
Castle, Schlosskäse
North Austria
Limburger type.
Catanzaro
Italy
Consumed locally, seldom exported.
Cat's Head see Katzenkopf.
Celery
Norway
Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway.
Cendrée, la
France—Orléanais, Blois & Aube
Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet
Cendré d'Aizy
Burgundy, France
Available all year. See la Cendrée.
Cendré de la Brie
Ile-de-France, France
Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May.
Cendré Champenois or Cendré des Riceys
Aube & Marne, France
Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes.
Cendré Olivet see Olivet.
Cenis see Mont Cenis.
Certoso Stracchino
Italy, near Milan
A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same reason.
Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin.
Chabichou
Poitou, France
Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.
Chaingy
Orléans, France
Season September to June.
Cham
Switzerland
One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister Pfister (see Pfister).
Chamois milk
Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.
Champenois or Fromage des Riceys
Aube & Marne, France
Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des Riceys.
Champoléon de Queyras
Hautes-Alpes, France.
Hard; skim-milker.
Chantelle
U.S.A.
Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger."
Chantilly see Hablé.
Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.
Chapelle
France
Soft.
Charmey Fine
Switzerland
Gruyère type.
Chaschol, or Chaschosis
Canton of Grisons, Switzerland
Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds.
Chasteaux see Petits Fromages.
Chateauroux see Fromage de Chèvre.
Chaumont
Champagne, France
Season November to May.
Chavignol see Crottin.
Chechaluk
Armenia
Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.
Cheddar see [Chapter 3].
Cheese bread
Russia and U.S.A.
For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (See both.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.
Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter.
Cheese food
U.S.A.
"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement
Cheese hoppers see Hoppers.
Cheese mites see Mites.
Cheshire and Cheshire imitations see with Cheddar in [Chapter 3].
Cheshire-Stilton
England
In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished.
Chester
England
Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home.
Curds sweetened with sugar.
Chevèlle
U.S.A.
A processed Wisconsin.
Chèvre see Fromages.
Chèvre de Chateauroux see Fromages.
Chèvre petit see Petìts Fromages.
Chèvre, Tome de see Tome.
Chevretin
Savoy, France
Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are.
Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy
Bresse & Franche-Comté, France
Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in France.
Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, les
Lyonnais, France
Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.
Chevrotins
Savoy, France
Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and eaten from March to December.
Chhana
Asia
All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name.
Chiavari
Italy
There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region, and both are hard:
I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano.
II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the
historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the
birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with
its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.
Chives cream cheese
Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (See both.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before.
Christalinna
Canton Graubünden, Switzerland
Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.
Christian IX
Denmark
A distinguished spiced cheese.
Ciclo
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese.
Cierp de Luchon
France
Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's three hundred notables.
Citeaux
Burgundy, France
Trappist Port-Salut.
Clabber cheese
England
Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber.
Clairvaux
France
Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.
Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. See Chives.
Clérimbert see Alpin.
Cleves
France
French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original.
Cloves see Nagelkäse.
Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese
U.S.A. and Canada
Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now all-American.
Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. All are described as "tangy."
Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy."
Cocktail Cheeses
Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" stores:
Argentine aged Gruyère
Canadian d'Oka
French Bleu
Brie
Camembert
Fontainebleu
Pont l'Evêque
Port du Salut
Roblochon
Roquefort
Grecian Feta
Hungarian Brinza
Polish Warshawski Syr
Rumanian Kaskaval
Swiss Schweizerkäse
American Cheddar in brandy
Hopi Indian
Coeur à la Crème
Burgundy, France
This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (see) when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket.
Coeurs d'Arras
Artois, France
These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of Arras.
Coffee-flavored cheese
Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor.
Coimbra
Portugal
Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center.
Colby
U.S.A.
Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains more
moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar.
College-educated
Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of Emmentaler.
Colwick see Slipcote.
Combe-air
France
Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size.
Commission
Holland
Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor.
Compiègne
France
Soft
Comté see Gruyère.
Conches
France
Emmentaler type.
Condrieu, Rigotte de la
Rhone Valley below Lyons, France
Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is rich.
Confits au Marc de Bourgogne see Epoisses.
Confits au Vin Blanc see Epoisses.
Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot
U.S.A.
Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out.
All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following:
Belgium—Kochtounkäse
Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen
Luxembourg—Kochenkäse
France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux
Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa
Coon see [Chapter 4].
Cornhusker
U.S.A.
A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture.
A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.
Corse, Roquefort de
Corsica, France
Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course.
Cossack
Caucasus
Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in
the salt bath.
II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more.
Cotherstone
Yorkshire, England
Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (See both.)
Cotrone, Cotronese see Pecorino.
Cotta see Pasta.
Cottage cheese
Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.
Cottenham or Double Cottenham
English Midlands
Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.
A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.
Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule
Ile-de-France, France
Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (See.)
Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers
France
Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of American summer tourists.
Cow cheese
Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.
Cream cheese
International
England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries—especially the small wild strawberries of rural England—taste out of this world. It is also drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small molds. (See Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands:
Cambridge
Cottslowe
Cornwall
Farm Vale
Guilford
Homer's
"Italian"
Lincoln
New Forest
Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—see Rush)
St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria)
Scotch Caledonian
Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)
Victoria
York
Crème Chantilly see Hablé.
Crème de Gien see Fromage.
Crème de Gruyère
Franche-Comté France
Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it.
Crème des Vosges
Alsace, France
Soft cream. Season October to April.
Crème Double see Double-Crème.
Crème, Fromage à la see Fromage.
Crème, Fromage Blanc à la see Fromage Blanc.
Crème St Gervais see Pots de Crème St Gervais.
Crèmet Nantais
Lower Loire, France
Soft fresh cream of Nantes.
A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar.
Cremini
Italy
Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything.
Creole
Louisiana, U.S.A.
Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type curd and rich cream.
Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi
Lombardy, Italy
Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.
Creuse
Creuse, France
A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, where it has drained for several days:
I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard.
II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw.
This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (See Hay
or Fromage de Foin.)
Creusois, or Guéret
Limousin, France
Season, October to June.
Croissant Demi-sel
France
Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.
Crottin de Chavignol
Berry, France
Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April to December. The name is not exactly complimentary.
Crowdie, or Cruddy butter
Scotland
Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration.
Crying Kebbuck
F. Marion MacNeill, in The Scots Kitchen says that this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in.
Cuajada see Venezuela.
Cubjac see Cajassou.
Cuit see Fromage Cuit.
Cumin, Münster au see Münster.
Cup see Koppen.
Curd see Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd.
Curds and butter
Arabia
Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee.
Curé, Fromage de see Nantais.
D
Daisies, fresh
A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use for seasoning.
Dalmatian
Austria
Hard ewe's-milker.
Dambo
Denmark
Semihard and nutty.
Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes)
Hungary
Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon.
Danish Blue
Denmark
Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser Blues.
Danish Export
Denmark
Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.
Dansk Schweizerost
Denmark
Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called.
Danzig
Poland
A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city.
One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston.
Dauphin
Flanders, France
Season, November to May.
d'Aurigny, Fromage see Alderney.
Daventry
England
A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" veins of a darker green.
Decize
Nivernaise, France
In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie.
de Foin, Fromage see Hay.
de Fontine
Spain
Crumbly, sharp, nutty.
de Gascony, Fromage see Castillon.
de Gérardmer see Récollet.
Delft
Holland
About the same as Leyden. (See.)
Délicieux
The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.
Delikat
U.S.A.
A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück original. (See.)
de Lile, Boule
French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.
Demi-Étuve
Half-size Étuve. (See.)
Demi Petit Suisse
The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the Gros.
Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier.
Demi-Sel, Croissant see Croissant Demi-Sel.
Derby, or Derbyshire
England
Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name.
Devonshire cream and cheese
England
Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese.
Dolce Verde
Italy
This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues.
Domaci Beli Sir
Yugoslavia
"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.
Domestic Gruyère
U.S.A.
An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.
Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country.
Domiati
Egypt
Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East.
Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny
England
Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (See Blue Vinny.)
Dotter
Nürnberg, Germany
An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid.
Doubles
The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.
Double-cream
England
Similar to Wensleydale.
Double-crème
France
There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la
Double-crème, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand.
Dresdener Bierkäse
Germany
A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as merely eaten.
Drinking cheeses
Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.
Dry
Germany
From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 608.)
Duel
Austria
Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.
Dunlop
Scotland
One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.
Durak
Turkey
Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.
Duralag, or Bgug-Panir
Armenia
Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months.
Durmar, Rarush see Rarush.
Dutch
Holland
Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.
Dutch cheese
American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.
Dutch Cream Cheese
England
Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.
Dutch Mill
U.S.A.
A specialty of Oakland, California.
Dutch Red Balls
English name for Edam.
E
Echourgnac, Trappe d'
Périgord, France
Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.
Edam see [Chapter 3].
Egg
Finland
Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.
Elbinger, or Elbing
West Prussia
Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse.
Ekiwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in.
Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani
Caucasus
Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales.
Elmo Table
Italy
Soft, mellow, tasty.
Emiliano
Italy
Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.
There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (See [Chapter 3], also Vacherin Fondu.)
"En enveloppe"
French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as nu, "in the nude."
Engadine
Graubünden, Switzerland
Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.
English Dairy
England and U.S.A.
Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese.
Entrechaux, le Cachat d' see Cachat.
Epoisses, Fromage d'
Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France
Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or marc to d'Epoisses in making confits with that name.
Erbo
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores.
Erce
Languedoc, France
Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November to May.
Eriwani see Elisavetpolen.
Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May.
Essex
U.S.A.
Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type.
Estrella see Serra da Estrella.
Étuve and Demi-Étuve
Holland
Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year.
Evarglice
Yugoslavia
Sharp, nutty flavor.
Excelsior
Normandy, France
Season all year.
F
Factory Cheddar
U.S.A.
Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and tractable—too tractable, in fact.
Farm
France
Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese.
Farmer
U.S.A.
This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the oven.
Farmhouse see Herrgårdsost.
Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, eight to a box.
Fat cheese see Frontage Gras and Maile Pener.
Fenouil see Tome de Savoie.
Ferme see Farm.
Feta see [Chapter 3].
Feuille de Dreux
Béarn, France
November to May.
"Filled cheese"
England
Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation.
Fin de Siècle
Normandy, France
Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.
Fiore di Alpe
Italy
Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps."
Fiore Sardo
Italy
Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully cured.
A kind of Marolles.
Fleur de Deauville
France
A type of Brie, in season December to May.
Fleur des Alpes see Bel Paese and Millefiori.
Floedeost
Norway
Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk.
Fløtost
Norway
Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.
Flower
England
Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except bean curd.
Fodder cheese
A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes.
Foggiano
Apulia, Italy
A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk.
Foin, Fromage de see Hay.
Fondu, Vacherin see Vacherin Fondu.
Fontainebleau
France
Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; summer variety.
Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma.
Fontine, de
Franche-Comté, France
A favorite all-year product.
Fontinelli
Italy
Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.
Fontini
Parma, Italy
Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same region as Parmesan.
Food cheese
U.S.A.
An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it.
Forez, also called d'Ambert
France
The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From Bulletin No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet.)
Formagelle
Northwest Italy
Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.
Formaggi di Pasta Filata
Italy
A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group.
Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco
Italy
Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1¼ by two inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.
Formaggio d'Oro
Northwest Italy
Hard, sharp, mountain-made.
Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero see Nostrale.
Fort see Fromage Fort.
Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome
Auvergne, France
This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (See Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal.)
Fourme de Montebrison
Auvergne, France
This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May.
Fourme de Salers see Cantal, which it resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.
Fresa, or Pannedas
Sardinia, Italy
A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.
Fribourg
Italy and Switzerland
Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (See)
Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese
Holland
Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is made in winter, beginning in November.
Friesian see West Friesian.
I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of
Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny.
II. Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream,
whipped egg whites and sugar.
III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is
hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a
little fresh milk and served with cream.
IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket
for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,
heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar.
Fromage à la Pie see Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm
Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille
France
Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after Bavaria where it probably originated.
Fromage Blanc
France
Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème.
Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also called Fromage de
Curé. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France.
Fromage Bleu see Bleu d'Auvergne.
Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)
Thionville, Lorraine, France
Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted.
Fromage d'Aurigny see Alderney.
Fromage de Bayonne
Bayonne, France
Made with ewe's milk.
Fromage de Bôite
Doubs, France
Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque.
Fromage de Bourgogne
see Burgundy.
Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux
Berry, France
A seasonal goat cheese.
Fromage de Curé see Nantais.
Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté
Poitou, France
Half goat and half cow milk.
Fromage de Gascony see Castillon.
Fromage de Pau see La Foncée.
Fromage de St. Rémy see Chevrets.
Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.
Fromage de Troyes
France
Two cheeses have this name. (See Barberry and Ervy.)
Fromage de Vache
Another name for Autun.
Fromage de Monsieur Fromage
Normandy, France
This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.
Fromage Fort
France
Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before fermenting some more.
Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all France.
Fort No. I: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine.
Fort No. II: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded and
potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (See Hazebrook.)
Fort No. III: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated.
Fromage Gras (fat cheese)
Savoy, France
Soft, round, fat ball called tête de mort, "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these lines:
Les gens à l'humeur morose
Prennent la Tête-de-Mort.
People of a morose disposition
Take the Death's Head.
Fromage Mou
Any soft cheese.
Fromage Piquant see Remoudon.
Fromagère see Canquillote.
Fromages de Chèvre
Orléanais, France
Small, dried goat-milkers.
Frühstück
Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their fast.
Ftinoporino
Macedonia, Greece
Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.
G
Gaiskäsli
Germany and Switzerland
A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.
Gammelost
Norway
Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his Encyclopedia of Food Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese."
Garda
Italy
Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind.
Garden
U.S.A.
Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.
Garlic
U.S.A.
A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.
A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, nobody knows why.
Gascony, Fromage de see Castillon.
Gautrias
Mayenne, France
Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut.
Gavot
Hautes-Alpes, France
A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk.
Geheimrath
Netherlands
A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight
Gérardmer, de see Récollet
German-American adopted types
Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer)
Géromé, la
Vosges, France
Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and
flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April.
Gervais
Ile-de-France, France
Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey.
Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner see Holstein Health.
Getmesost
Sweden
Soft; goat; whey; sweet.
Gex
Pays de Gex, France
Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May.
Gex Marbré
France
A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues family, that are green in spite of their name.
Gien see Fromage à la Crème.
Gislev
Scandinavia
Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.
Gjetost
Norway
A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.
Glavis
Switzerland
The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (See.)
Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse
Germany
Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.
Cloire des Montagnes see Damen.
3/Dec/2004 15:38
Gloucestershire, England
There are two types:
I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six
months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of
flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure
its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply
to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you
then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the
praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated."
A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, by André L. Simon.
II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester
ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone"
brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and
"as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is
from an old vintage."
Glumse
West Prussia, Germany
A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.
Glux
Nivernais, France
Season, all year.
Goat
France
A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble.
Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind.
Gomost
Norway
Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (See Mysost.)
Gorgonzola
Italy
Besides the standard type exported to us (See [Chapter 3].) there is White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.
Gouda see [Chapter 3].
Gouda, Kosher
Holland
The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it.
Goya
Corrientes, Argentine
Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy.
It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals.
Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches long.
Grana
Italy
Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into.
Grana Lombardo
Lombardy
The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy.
Grana Reggiano
Reggio, Italy
A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own—Regianito.
Grande Bornand, la
Switzerland
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Granular curd see Stirred curd.
Gras, or Velvet Kaas
Holland
Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", Tête de Maure, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called Tête de Mort, "Death's Head". Gras is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (See Brie.)
Gratairon
France
Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made.
Graubünden
Switzerland
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county.
Grey
Germany and Austrian Tyrol
Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.
Gruyère see [Chapter 3].
Güssing, or Land-l-kas
Austria
Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds.
H
Habas see Caille.
Hablé Crème Chantilly
Ösmo, Sweden
Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. See [Chapter 3].
Hand see [Chapter 3].
Hard
Puerto Rico
Dry; tangy.
Harzkäse, Harz
Harz Mountains, Germany
Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.
Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé.
Hasandach
Turkey
Bland; sweet.
Hauskäse.
Germany
Limburger type. Disk-shaped.
Haute Marne
France
Soft; square.
Hay, or Fromage au Foin
Seine, France
A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay.
Hazebrook
There are two kinds:
I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and
pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters.
II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and
marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.
Head
Four cheeses are called Head:
The French Death's Head.
Swiss Monk's Head.
Dutch Cat's Head.
Moor's Head.
There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only a cheese by discourtesy.
Health see Holstein.
Herbesthal
Germany
Named from a valley full of rich herbes for grazing.
Cheddar type; nearly white. See [Chapter 4].
Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House
West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden
Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.
Herrgårdstyp see Hushållsost.
Hervé
Belgium
Soft; made in cubes and peppered with herbes such as tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk.
Hickory Smoked
U.S.A.
Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.
Hohenburg see Box No. II.
Hohenheim
Germany
Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.)
Hoi Poi
China
Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars.
Hoja see Queso de.
Hollander
North Germany
Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein.
Holstein Dairy see Leather.
Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner
Germany
Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping.
Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse
Germany
Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled.
Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse
Germany
Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all.
Hop, Hopfen
Germany
Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.
Hopi
U.S.A.
Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.
Horner's
England
An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce originated.
Horse Cheese
Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it.
Hum
Holland
Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum."
Hushållsost, Household Cheese
Sweden
Popular in three types: Popular in three types:
Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse
Västgötatyp—Westgotland
Sveciatyp—Swedish
Hvid Gjetost
Norway
A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia.
I
Icelandic
In Letters from Iceland, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost.
A hand cheese.
Ilha, Queijo de
Azores
Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, Ilha, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as Pico, Peak, and Terceiro, Third, are sometimes added to their cheeses.
Impérial, Ancien see Ancien.
Imperial Club
Canada
Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial.
Incanestrato
Sicily, Italy
Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. See Majocchino, a kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides.
Irish Cheeses
Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.
Isigny
France
Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. (See.) Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to Limburger. (See [Chapter 2].)
In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can.
This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined."
J
Jack see Monterey.
Jochberg
Tyrol, Germany
Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.
Jonchée
Santonge, France
A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee.
Josephine
Silesia, Germany
Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical packages.
Journiac see [Chapter 3].
Julost
Sweden.
Semihard; tangy.
Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel
France
Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.
K
Kaas, Oude
Belgium
Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.
Same as Italian Caciocavallo.
Kaiser-käse
Germany
This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.
Kajmar, or Serbian Butter
Serbia and Turkey
Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.
Kamembert
Yugoslavia
Imitation Camembert.
Karaghi La-La
Turkey
Nutty and tangy.
Kareish
Egypt
A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.
Karut
India
Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.
Karvi
Norway
Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.
Kash
Rumania
Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.
Kashcavallo, Caskcaval
Greece
A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.
Kasher, or Caher, Penner
Turkey
Hard; white; sharp.
Kash Kwan
Bulgaria and the Balkans
An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities.
Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A.
Kasseri
Greece
Hard; ewe's milk, usually.
Katschkawalj
Serbia
Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.
Katzenkopf, Cat's Head
Holland
Another name for Edam. (See [Chapter 3].)
Kaukauna Club
U.S.A.
Widely advertised processed cheese food.
Kauna
Lithuania
A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.
Kefalotir, Kefalotyi
Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria
Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo.
Keg-ripened
see Brand.
King Christian IX
Denmark
Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.
Kingdom Farm
U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y. The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not available elsewhere.
Kirgischerkäse see Krutt.
Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.
Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese
Germany
A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon Kaffee-klatsches in the Konditories.
Kloster, Kloster Käse
Bavaria
Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day.
Kochenkäse
Luxembourg
Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets.
Koch Käse
Germany
This translates "cooked cheese."
Kochtounkäse
Belgium
Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.
Kolos-monostor
Rumania
Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania.
Kolosvarer
Rumania
A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.
Komijnekaas, Komynekass
North Holland
Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.
Konigskäse
Germany
A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.
Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.
Koppen, Cup, or Bauden
Germany
Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages.
Korestin
Russia
Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.
Kosher
This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (See Gouda, Kosher.)
Krauterkäse
Brazil
Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.
Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese
Switzerland
Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse.
Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse
Asian Steppes
A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun.
Kühbacher
Bavaria
Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made.
Kuminost
Norway
Semihard; caraway-seeded.
This is Bondost with caraway added.
Kummin Ost
Wisconsin, U.S.A.
Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their ost.
Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas
Holland
Caraway-seeded and named.
Kümmelkäse
Germany and U.S.A.
Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.
L
Labneh
Syria
Sour-milk.
La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau
France
Cream cheese.
Lager Käse
U.S.A.
Semidry and mellow. While lager means merely "to store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here.
Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole
Aveyron, France
An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full season from November to May.
Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray
Poitou
Goat cheese made from May to November.
Lancashire, or Lancaster
North England
White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in color.
Land-l-kas, or Güssing
Austria
Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds.
Langlois Blue
U.S.A.
A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly compete with Roquefort.
Langres
Haute-Marne, France
Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.
Lapland
Lapland
Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends.
Laredo
Mexico
Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city.
Larron
France
A kind of Maroilles.
Latticini
Italy
Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert.
Made from November to July.
Lauterbach
Germany
Breakfast cheese
Leaf see Tschil.
Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy
Germany
A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great milch cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred with a Danish stirrer."
Lebanie
Syria
Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.
Lecco, Formaggini di
Italy
Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese family as big as the human family of most Italians.
Lees see Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.
LeGuéyin
Lorraine, France
Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt and pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato.
Leicester
England
Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type.
An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made for each other."
Leidsche Kaas see Leyden.
A kind of Pecorino.
Leroy
U.S.A.
Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed.
Lerroux
France
Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or winter months.
Lescin
Caucasus
Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period.
The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.
Les Petits Bressans
Bresse, France
Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.
Les Petits Fromages see Petits Fromages and Thiviers.
Le Vacherin
Name given to two entirely different varieties:
I. Vacherin à la Main
II. Vacherin Fondu. (See Vacherin.)
A goat cheese in season from May to December.
Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese
Holland
Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory product.
Liederkranz see [Chapter 4].
Limburger see [Chapter 3].
Lincoln
England
Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.
Lindenhof
Belgium
Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.
Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu
Hungary
A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (See [Chapter 3].)
Lipto
Hungary
Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both Liptauer and Brinza.
Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed.
Livarot
Calvados, France
Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh laiche leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.
Livlander
Russia
A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese itself is red, not the rind.
Locatelli
Italy
A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino.
Lodigiano, or Lombardo
Lodi, Italy
Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.
This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.
Lorraine
Lorraine, Germany
Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.
Lumburger
Belgium
Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because it has no odor.
Lunch
Germany and U.S.A.
The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener.
Lüneberg
West Austria
Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a character of its own.
Luxembourg
U.S.A.
Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert.
M
Maconnais
France
Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick.
Macqueline
Oise, France
Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper price.
Madridejos
Spain
Named for Madrid where it is made.
Magdeburger-kuhkäse
Germany
"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg.
Magerkäse see Holstein Skim Milk
Maggenga, Sorte
Italy
A term for Parmesan types made between April and September.
Maguis
Belgium
Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread.
Maigre
France
A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras and spring Migras.
Maile
Crimea
Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year.
Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)
Crimea
Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened.
Mainauer
German
Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three pounds.
Mainzer Hand
German
Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft.
Majocchino
Sicily, Italy
An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of Incanestrato.
Malakoff
France
A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or ripe.
Manicamp
French Flanders
In season from October to July.
A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. (See Venezuelan.)
Manor House see Herrgårdsost.
Manteca, Butter
Italy
Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing—not for cooking—which is unusual for any Italian cheese.
Manur, or Manuri
Yugoslavia
Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and dried."
Maqueé
Belgium
Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese.
Marches
Tuscany, Italy
Ewe's milk; hard.
Margarine
England
An oily cheese made with oleomargarine.
Margherita
Italy
Soft; cream; small.
Marienhofer
Austria
Limburger type. About 4½ inches square and 1½ inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil.
Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand
Germany
Soft; smelly; hand type.
Maroilles, Marolles, Marole
Flanders, France
Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five inches square and 2¼ inches thick; some larger.
Martha Washington Aged Cheese
U.S.A.
Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (See under Wisconsin in [Chapter 4].)
Mascarpone, or Macherone
Italy
Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.
McIntosh
Alaska
An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." The Cheddar Box by Dean Collins.
McLaren's
U.S.A.
Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S A.
Meadowbloom
U.S.A.
Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.
Mecklenburg Skim
Germany
No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.
Meilbou
France
Made in the Champagne district.
Mein Käse
U.S.A.
Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.
Melfa
U.S.A.
Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half moons.
Melun
France Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de Melun.
Mentelto
Italy
Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains
Merignac
France
Goat.
Merovingian
Northeast France
Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the Merovingian kings.
Mersem
France
Lightly cooked.
Mesitra
Crimea
Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk.
Mesost
Sweden
Whey; sweetish.
Metton
Franche-Comté, France
Season October to June.
Meuse
France
Soft; piquant; aromatic.
Midget Salami Provolone
U.S.A.
This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, too.
Mignot
Calvados, France
White, No. I: Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season only in summer, April to September.
Passe, No. II: Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or distilled.
Name given to spring Brie—midway between fat winter Gras and thin summer Maigre.
Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo
Italy
Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1½ to 2¾ inches thick, 3 to 6½ pounds.
Milk Mud see Schlickermilch.
Millefiori
Milan, Italy
A Thousand Flowers—as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones.
Milltown Bar
U.S.A.
Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars.
Milk cheeses
Milks that make cheese around the world:
Ass Buffalo Camel Chamois Elephant Goat Human (see Mother's milk) Llama Mare Reindeer Sea cow (Amazonian legend) Sheep Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) Yak Zebra Zebu
U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.
Milwaukee Kümmelkäse
and Hand Käse U.S.A.
Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and successfully imitated.
Minas
Brazil
Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello Horizonte.
Minnesota Blue
U.S.A.
A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals to be proud of.
Mintzitra
in Macedonia; and
Mitzithra
in Greece
Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta.
Modena, Monte
U.S.A.
Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.
Mohawk Limburger Spread
U.S.A.
A brand that comes in one-pound jars.
Moliterno
Italy
Similar to Caciocavallo. (See.)
Monceau
Champagne, France
Semihard, similar to Maroilles.
Moncenisio
Italy
Similar to Gorgonzola.
Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse
Austria
This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch of the Limburgers.
The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of whole milk.
Money made of cheese
China
In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, 1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as 'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for other articles of service."
Monk's Head see Tête de Moine.
Monostorer
Transylvania, Rumania
Ewe's milk.
Monsieur
France
Soft; salted; rich in flavor.
Monsieur Fromage see Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.
Montana
Catalonia
A mountain cheese.
Montasio
Austria and Italy
Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in America.
Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de
Brittany, France
A celebrated cheese of Brittany.
Montavoner
Austria
Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the Achittea family.
Mont Blanc
France
An Alpine cheese.
Mont Cenis
Southeastern France Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semi-hard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and sometimes the ripening is done by penicillium introduced in moldy bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing twenty-five pounds.
Mont-des-Cats
French Flanders
Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.
A fresh cream.
Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore
Lyonnais, France
Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. Didier.
Montavoner
Austria
A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd.
Monterey
Mexico
Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in California and along the Mexican border.
Monterey Jack see [Chapter 4].
Monthéry
Seine-et-Oise, France
Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, weighing up to 5½ pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots.
Montpellier
France
Sheep.
Moravian
Czechoslovakia
Semihard and sharp.
Morbier
Bresse, France
In season from November to July.
Mostoffait
France
A little-known product of Champagne.
In his book about French varieties, Les Fromages, Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it was made of "lait de femme" and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all of us are cannibals."
Mountain
Bavaria
Soft; yellow; sharp.
Mountain, Azuldoch see Azuldoch.
Mount Hope
U.S.A.
Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.
Mouse or Mouse Trap
U.S.A.
Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles.
Mozzarella
Italy
Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste.
Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza
Italy
Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.
Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza.
Mozzarinelli
Italy
A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.
Mrsav see Sir Posny.
Münster
Germany
German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. Best in winter season, from November to April.
Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste.
In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au Cumin because of the caraway.
American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do.
Mustard
U.S.A.
A processed domestic, Gruyère type.
Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.
Mysost, Mytost
Scandinavia
Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil.
N
Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland
Austria
Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, nagel, in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby.
Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate
Brittany, France
A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.
Nessel
England
Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.
Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse
Normandy, France
Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and [Chapter 9].
New Forest
England
Cream cheese from the New Forest district.
Nieheimer
Westphalia, Germany
Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique.
In season from October to May.
Noekkelost or Nögelost
Norway
Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a Gouda.
Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"
U.S.A.
Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.
Nordost
Sweden
Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.
North Wilts
Wiltshire, England
Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale.
Nostrale
Northwest Italy
An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds:
I. Formaggio Duro: hard, as its name says, made in the spring
when the cows are in the valley.
II. Formaggio Tenero: soft and richer, summer-made with milk
from lush mountain-grazing.
Notruschki (cheese bread)
Russia
Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.
Nova Scotia Smoked
U.S.A.
The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor.
Nuworld
U.S.A.
This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, heavily waxed portions
to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and flavor.
A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new species or not.
O
Oaxaca see Asadero.
Oka, or La Trappe
Canada
Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated in France. See Trappe.
Old English Club
U.S.A.
Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of.
Old Heidelberg
U.S.A.
Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.
Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile
France
A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron.
Olive Cream
U.S.A.
Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese.
Olivet
Orléans, France
Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:
I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese.
II. Olivet-Bleu—mold inoculated; half-ripened.
III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June.
Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse
Austria
Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only ½ of an inch thick by 1½ inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar.
Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour
Béarn, France
In season from October to May.
Onion with garlic links
U.S.A
Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.
Oporto
Portugal
Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.
Orkney
Scotland
A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes.
Orléans
France
Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy.
Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach
Caucasus
Comes in two forms:
I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.
II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of
sheep milk is the better.
Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka
Czechoslovakia
Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.
New York State Cheddar of distinction.
Oude Kaas
Belgium
Popular in France as Boule de Lille.
Oust, Fromage de
Roussillon, France
Of the Camembert family.
Ovár
Hungarian
Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit.
Oveji Sir
Yugoslavian Alpine
Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. Weight six to ten pounds.
Oxfordshire
England
An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century:
"An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.'
"'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?'
"To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"
P
Pabstett
U.S.A
The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has long since been
done away with, the relation of the processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular beer.
Packet cheese
England
This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package or packet it comes in.
Paglia
Switzerland
Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type.
Pago
Dalmatia, Yugoslavia
A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in weights from ½ to eight pounds.
Paladru
Savoy, France
In season from November to May.
Palpuszta
Hungary
Fairly strong Limburger type.
Pannarone
Italy
Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining.
Parenica
Hungary
Sheep. Caciocavallo type.
Parmesan, Parmigiano
Italy
The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as Pasta al Pesto, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a pestle.
Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau
German
Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau.
Pasta Cotta
Italy
The ball or grana of curd used in making Parmesan.
Pasta Filata
Italy
A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which Grana is chopped.(See Formaggi di Pasta Filata.)
Pasteurized Process Cheese Food
U.S.A.
This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his hand.
Pastorella
Italy
Soft, rich table cheese.
Patagras
Cuba
Similar to Gouda.
Pecorino
Italy
Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular.
Pelardon de Rioms
Languedoc, France
A goat cheese in season from May to November.
Peneteleu
Rumania
One of the international Caciocavallo family.
Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album
Tiny mushroom spores of Penicillium Glaucum sprinkled in the curd destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface, snow-white Penicillium Album.
Pennich
Turkey
Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.
Pennsylvania Hand Cheese
U.S.A.
This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or cooked.
Penroque
Pennsylvania, U.S.A
Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with Penicillium Roqueforti and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother nature.
Pepato
Italy
Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine for fire-eaters.
An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.
Persillé de Savoie
Savoie, France
In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.
Petafina, La
Dauphiné, France
Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe.
Petit Carré
France
Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial.
Petit Gruyère
Denmark
Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at home.
Petit Moule
Ile-de-France, France
A pet name for Coulommiers.
Petit Suisse
France
Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:
Gros—a largest cylinder
Demi—a small one
Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is ideal with honey.
Petit Vacher
France
"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese.
Petits Bourgognes
Lower Burgundy, France
Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning with B are Banons and Bressans.
Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les
France
Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.
Petits Fromages de Chèvre
France
Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of Provence.
Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers
Poitou, France
Clotted milk in small pots.
Pfister
Cham, Switzerland
Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to manufacture it, in Chain.
Philadelphia Cream
U.S.A.
An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. Made in New York State in spite of its name.
Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home.
Picodon de Dieule Fit
Dauphiné, France
In season from May to December.
Pie, Fromage à la
France
Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese type.
Pie Cheese
U.S.A
An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing—if it has the rind on. The wedge shape is used, however, without any rind, to make processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar."
Pimiento
U.S.A.
Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads.
Pimp see Mainzer Hand Cheese.
Pineapple see [Chapter 4].
Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's.
Pippen
U.S.A.
Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll
Pithiviers au Foin
France
Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May.
Poitiers
France
Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.
Pommel
France
All year. Double cream; unsalted.
Ponta Delgada
Azores
Semifirm; delicate; piquant
Pontgibaud
France
Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.
Pont l'Evêque
Characterized as a classic French fromage "with Huge-like Romanticism." (See [Chapter 3].) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow."
Poona
U.S.A.
Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature before serving.
Port-Salut, Port du Salut see [Chapter 3].
Port, Blue Links
U.S.A.
"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links.
Pot cheese
U.S.A.
Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and macaroons.
In Ireland it was used in connection with the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.
Potato
Germany and U.S.A.
Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 608.
Potato Pepper
Italy
Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, only not so stony hard.
Pots de Crème St. Gervais
St. Gervais-sur-mer, France
The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.
Pouligny-St. Pierre
Touraine, France
A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to December.
Poustagnax, le
France
A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.
Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long ago.
Prattigau
Switzerland
Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home valley.
Prestost or Saaland Flarr
Sweden
Similar to Gouda, but unique—the curd being mixed with whiskey, packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey.
Primavera, Spring
Minas Geraes, Brazil
Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a springlike fragrance.
Primost
Norway
Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.
Primula
Norway
A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added.
Processed
U.S.A.
From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic mass.
Promessi
Italy
Small soft-cream cheese.
Provatura
Italy
A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.
Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.
Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and Provolino
Italy
All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable.
Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, Provolones weigh from bocconi (mouthful), about one pound, to two to four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.
P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit
Lorraine, France
Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted.
Puant Macere
Flanders
"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November to June.
Pultost or Knaost
Norway
Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.
Pusztador
Hungary
Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent.
Pyrenees, Fromage des
France
A fine mountain variety.
Q
Quartiolo
Italy
Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September and November.
Quacheq
Macedonia, Greece
Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.
Quargel see Olmützer.
Quartirolo
Italy
Soft, cow's milk.
Queijos—Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal see under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella.
Queso Anejo
Mexico
White, dry, skim milk.
Queso de Bola
Mexico
Whole milk, similar to Edam.
Queso de Cavallo
Venezuela
Pear-shaped cheese.
Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida see Venezuela.
Queso de Cincho
Venezuela
Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves.
Queso de Crema
Costa Rica
Similar to soft Brick.
Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese
Puerto Rico
Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other.
Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.
Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra
Puerto Rico
White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,
Queso de Prensa
Puerto Rico
The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after ripening two or three months.
Queso de Puna
Puerto Rico
Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.
Queso de Tapara
Venezuela
Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called tapara from the shape and tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in Bueno Provecho.
Queso Fresco
El Salvador
Cottage-cheese type.
Queville see [Chapter 3].
Queyras see Champoléon.
R
Rabaçal
Coimbra, Portugal
Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.
Rabbit Cheese
U.S.A.
A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.
Radener
Germany
Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds.
Radolfzeller Cream
Germany, Switzerland, Austria
Similar to Münster.
Ragnit see Tilsit.
Rahmkäse, Allgäuer
German
Cream.
Rainbow
Mexico
Mild; mellow.
Ramadoux
Belgium
Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé
Rammil or Rammel
England
André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today.
Rangiport
France
A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.
Rarush Durmar
Turkey
Brittle; mellow; nutty.
Rächerkäse
The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very popular.
Raviggiolo
Tuscany, Italy
Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.
Rayon or Raper
Switzerland
A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning.
Reblochon or Roblochon
Savoy
Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section.
Récollet de Gérardmer
Vosges, France
A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April
Red
Russia
see Livlander.
Red Balls
Dutch
see Edam.
Reggiano see Grana.
Regianito
Argentine
Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses.
Reichkäse
German
Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one.
Reindeer
Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway
In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends.
Relish cream cheese
U.S.A.
Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.
Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant
Belgium
The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to June.
Requeijão
Portugal and Brazil
Recooked.
Resurrection see Welsh.
Rhubarbe
France
A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our pie plant.
Ricotta Romano
Italy
Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.
Ricotta
Italy and U.S.A.
Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor substitute whey cheese.
Ricotta Salata
Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating.
Riesengebirge
Bohemia
Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's northern mountains.
Rinnen
Germany
This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain.
Riola
Normandy, France
Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to ripen, two to three months.
Robbiole
Robbiola
Robbiolini
Lombardy
Italian
Very similar to Crescenza (see.) Alpine winter cheese of fine quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at just under four ounces.
Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.
Rocamadur
Limousin, France
Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May.
Rocroi
France
From the Champagne district.
Rokadur
Yugoslavia
Imitation Roquefort.
Roll
England
Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds.
Rollot or Rigolot
Picardy and Montdidier, France
Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only cheese.
Roma
Italy
Soft cream.
Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings
Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland
A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries.
Romano, Romano Vacchino
Italy
Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.
Romanello
U.S.A.
Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating cheese, cured one year.
Roquefort
France
King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." See [Chapter 3].
Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled
U.S.A.
Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.
Roquefort de Corse
Corsica, France
This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening.
Roquefort de Tournemire
France
Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal Roquefort name.
Rougerets, les
Lyonnais, France
A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically every variety is made with goat milk.
Rouennais
France
This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten from October to May.
Round Dutch
Holland
An early name for Edam.
Rouy, le
Normandy, France
From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.
Royal Brabant
Belgium
Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.
Royal Sentry
Denmark
Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium phosphate.
Ruffec, Fromage de
Saintonge, France
Fresh; goat.
Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.
Rush Cream Cheese
England and France
Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or baskets should not be used a second time.
S
Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost
Sweden
Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with whiskey.
Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for ripening is six years, but some take nine.
Sage, or Green cheese
England
This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the method described in [Chapter 4].
Saint-Affrique
Guyenne, France
This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local renown.
We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped abroad.
Saint-Agathon
Brittany, France
Season, October to July.
Saint-Amand-Montrond
Berry, France
Made from goat's milk.
Saint-Benoit
Loiret, France
Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.
Saint-Claude
Franche-Comté, France
Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.
Saint-Cyr see Mont d'Or.
Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or see Mont d'Or.
Saint-Florentin
Burgundy, France
A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July.
Saint-Flour
Auvergne, France
Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses.
Saint-Gelay
Poitou, France
Made from goat's milk.
Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais
see Pots de Crème.
Saint-Heray see La Mothe.
Saint-Honoré
Nivernais, France
A small goat cheese.
Saint-Hubert
France
Similar to Brie.
Saint-Ivel
England
Fresh dairy cream cheese containing Lactobacillus acidophilus. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with Bacillus Bulgaricus.
Saint-Laurent
Roussillon, France
Mountain sheep cheese.
Saint-Lizier
Béarn, France
A white, curd cheese.
Saint-Loup, Fromage de
Poitou and Vendée, France
Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September
Saint-Marcellin
Dauphiné, France
One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by ¾ inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially a goat cheese.
Saint-Moritz
Switzerland
Soft and tangy.
Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre
Auvergne, France
Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.
Saint-Olivet see [Chapter 3].
Saint-Pierre-Pouligny see Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.
Saint-Reine see Alise.
Saint-Rémy, Fromage de
Haute-Saône, France
Soft Pont l'Evêque type.
Saint-Stefano
German
Bel Paese type.
Saint-Winx
Flanders, France
The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products.
Sainte-Anne d'Auray
Brittany, France
A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.
Sainte-Marie
Franche-Comté, France
A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.
Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine
France
Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay.
Salamana
Southern Europe
Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge.
Salame
France
Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in Italy, from Provolone down, and now—both as salami and links—it has became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout America.
Salers, Bleu de
France
One of the very good French Blues.
Saligny
Champagne, France
White cheese made from sheep's milk.
Saloio
Lisbon, Portugal
An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1½ to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms.
Salonite
Italy
Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago.
Saltee
Ireland
Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its name implies.
Salt-free cheese, for diets
U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse.
Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.
Sandwich Nut
An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel.
Sapsago see [Chapter 3].
Sardegna
Sardinia
A Romano type made in Sardinia.
Sardinian
Sardinia, Italy
The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy.
Sardo
Sardinia, Italy
Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.
Sarraz or Sarrazin
Vaud, Switzerland
Roquefort type.
Sassenage
Dauphiny, France
Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated.
Satz
Germany
Hard cheese made in Saxony.
Savoy, Savoie
France
Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy.
Sbrinz
Argentine
Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.
Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.
Scarmorze or Scamorze
Italy
Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about 3½ by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese.
Schabziger see [Chapter 3].
Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)
Germany
Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.
Schamser, or Rheinwald
Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland
Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six pounds.
Schlickermilch
This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.
Schlesische Sauermilchkäse
Silesia, Poland
Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week.
Schlesischer Weichquarg
Silesia, Poland
Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-
four hours, then kneaded and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand cheese odor develops.
Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck
German
This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz.
Schmierkäse
German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America.
Schnitzelbank Pot see Liederkranz, [Chapter 4].
Schönland
German
Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land."
Schützenkäse
Austria
Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.
Shottengsied
Alpine
A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.
Schwarzenberger
Hungary and Bohemia
One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to ripen.
Schweizerkäse
Switzerland
German for Swiss cheese. (See Emmentaler.)
Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese
Denmark
A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing wonderful.
Select Brick see [Chapter 12].
Selles-sur Cher
Berry, France
A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.
Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1½ pounds.
Septmoncel
France
Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.
Serbian
Serbia
Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk for six.
Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is semisoft.
Serbian Butter see Kajmar.
Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range)
Portugal
The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid.
Sharp-flavored cheese
U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, Old
Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval.
Shefford see [Chapter 2].
Silesian
Poland and Germany
White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.)
Sir cheeses
In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France.
Sir Iz Mjesine
Dalmatia, Yugoslavia
Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen.
Sir Mastny
Montenegro
Fresh sheep milk.
Sir Posny
Montenegro
Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav.
Sir, Twdr see Twdr Sir.
Sir, Warshawski see Warshawski Syr.
Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.
Skyr
Iceland
The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives you diarrhea."
Slipcote, or Colwick
England
Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily slips off—hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire.
Smältost
Sweden
Soft and melting.
Smearcase
Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for cottage cheese.
Smoked Block
Austria
A well-smoked cheese in block form.
Smoked Mozzarella see Mozzarella Affumicata.
Smoked Szekely
Hungary
Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked.
A small smoked cheese.
Soaked-curd cheese see Washed-curd cheese.
Sorbais
Champagne, France
Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, but smaller.
Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga
Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.
Soumaintrain, Fromage de
France
Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.
Soybean
China
Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver.
Spalen or Stringer
Switzerland
A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together.
Sperrkäse see Dry.
Spiced
International
Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost
or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, etc.
Spiced and Spiced Spreads
U.S.A.
Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less than 1½ ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese.
Spiced Fondue see Vacherin Fondu.
France
Spitz Spitzkase
Germany
Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, Limburger-like. see Backsteiner.
Sposi
Italy
Soft; small; cream.
Spra
Greek
Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made principally from sheep milk.
Stängenkase
Germany
Limburger type.
Stein Käse
U.S.A.
Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after the old German original.
Steinbuscher-Käse
German
Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at home but little known abroad.
Steppe
Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark
German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home consumption.
Stilton see [Chapter 3].
Stirred curd cheese
U.S.A.
Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed younger.
Stracchino
Italy
Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in [Chapter 3]. Also see Certoso Stracchino.
Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of this distinguished family.
Stravecchio
Italy
Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.
Stringer see Spalen.
Styria
Austria
Whole milk. Cylindrical form.
Suffolk
England
An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty hardness.
"Hunger will break through stone walls and anything
except a Suffolk cheese."
"Those that made me were uncivil
For they made me harder than the devil.
Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me;
Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me."
Surati, Panir
India
Buffalo milk. Uncolored.
Suraz
Serbia
Semihard and semisoft.
Sveciaost
Sweden
A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full cream, ¾ cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as most osts are.
Sweet-curd
U.S.A.
Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by the granular process.
Swiss
U.S.A.
In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler.
Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American processed links, with wine flavors and everything.
T
Taffel, Table, Taffelost
Denmark
A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.
Tafi
Argentina
Made in the rich province of Tucuman.
Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de
Périgord, France
Very small and tasty goat cheese.
Taleggio
Lombardy, Italy
Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.
Tallance
France
Goat.
Tamie
France
Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced not far away.
Tanzenberger
Carinthia, Austria
Limburger type.
Tao-foo or Tofu
China, Japan, the Orient
Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the
same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is.
Teleme
Rumania
Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days.
Terzolo
Italy
Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter.
Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head
France
Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.
Tête de Moine, Monk's Head
France
A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay.
Tête de Mort see Fromage Gras for this death's head.
"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"
Scotland
Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme that exposes it:
The first love token ye gae me
Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.
O wae be to the tempting cheese,
The tempting cheese of Fyvie,
Gat me forsake my ain gude man
And follow a fottman laddie.
Texel
Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.
Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.
Thion
Switzerland
A fine Emmentaler.
Three Counties
Ireland
An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most of the Irish cheese.
Thuringia Caraway
Germany
A hand cheese spiked with caraway.
Thyme
Syria
Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme—both French: Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.
Tibet
Tibet
The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (See under Money.)
Tignard
Savoy, France
Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.
Tijuana
Mexico
Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town.
Tillamook see [Chapter 4].
Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit
Germany
This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.
Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and Canadian—even Swiss—imitations.
The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial dallying."
Tilziski
Yugoslavia
A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.
Tome de Beaumont
France
Whole cow's milk.
Tome, la
Auvergne, France
Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, etc.
Tome de Chèvre
Savoy, France
Soft goat cheese.
Tome de Savoie
France
Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.
Tomelitan Gruyère
Norway
Imitation of French Gruyère in 2½ ounce packages.
Topf or Topfkäse
Germany
A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it is flaky.
Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano
Tuscany, Italy
Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a table cheese.
A smaller edition of Toscano.
Touareg
Berber, Africa
Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.
Tour Eiffel
Berry, France
Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.
Touloumisio
Greece
Similar to Feta.
Tournette
France
Small goat cheese.
Tourne de chèvre
Dauphiné, France
Goat cheese.
Trappe, la, or Oka
Canada
Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian monastery.
Trappist see [Chapter 3].
Trappist
Yugoslavia
Trappist Port-Salut imitation.
Trauben (Grape)
Switzerland
Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the grape.
Travnik, Travnicki
Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia
Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.
When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is characteristically oily and sharp.
Traz os Montes
Portugal
Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all tallowy.
Trecce
Italy
Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.
Triple Aurore
France
Normandy cheese in season all the year around.
Troo
France
Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.
Trouville
France
Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality.
Troyes, Fromage de see Barberey and Ervy.
Truckles
England
No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a handout:
Pray, dame, something,
An apple or a dumpling,
Or a piece of Truckle cheese
Of your own making.
No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.
Tschil
Armenia
Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.
Tuile de Flandre
France
A type of Marolles.
Tullum Penney
Turkey
Salty from being soaked in brine.
Tuna, Prickly Pear
Mexico
Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico for centuries.
Tuscano
Italy
Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.
Twdr Sir
Serbia
Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.
Twin Cheese
U.S.A.
Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, Wisconsin.
Tworog
Russia
Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese bread called Notruschki.
Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.
Tyrol Sour
German
A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.
Tzgone
Dalmatia
The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.
Tzigenkäse
Austria
Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; originated in Dalmatia.
U
Urda
Rumania
Creamy; sweet; mild.
Uri
Switzerland
Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds.
Urseren
Switzerland
Mild flavored. Cooked curd.
Urt, Fromage d'
Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.
V
Vacherin
France and Switzerland
I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is Tome de Montague.
II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."
Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin.
Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du
Andorra, France
Sheep milk.
Valdeblore, le
Nice, France
Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.
Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay
Touraine, France
Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.
Valio
Finland
One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real cheese is.
Valsic
Albania
Crumbly and sharp.
Varalpenland
Germany
Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.
Varennes, Fromage de
France
Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.
Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, almost bitter taste.
Västgötaost
West Gothland, Sweden
Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty to thirty pounds.
Vendôme, Fromage de
France
Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris.
Veneto, Venezza
Italy
Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.
Vic-en-Bigorre
France
Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.
Victoria
England
The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.
Ville Saint-Jacques
France
Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May.
Villiers
France
Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.
Viry-vory, or Vary
France
Fresh cream cheese.
Viterbo
Italy
Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, Cynara Scolymus. Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.
Vize
Greece
Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.
Void
Meuse, France
Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.
The name means "full cream" cheese and that—according to law—has 45% fat in the dry product (See Gras.)
Vorarlberg Sour-milk
Greasy
Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk.
Vory, le
France
Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse.
W
Warshawski Syr
Poland
Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland.
Warwickshire
England
Derbyshire type.
Washed-curd cheese
U.S.A.
Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any abnormal flavors.
Wedesslborg
Denmark
A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully ripened.
Weisschmiere
Bavaria, Germany
Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four months.
Weisslacker, White Lacquer
Bavaria
Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and rectangles, 4½ by 4 by 3½, weighing 2½ pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.
Welsh cheeses
The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting sensuousness
that is found in the poems of John Keats.
"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From My Wales by Rhys Davies.)
Wensleydale
England
I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to
Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.
II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and winter.
Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse
West Prussia
Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.
West Friesian
Netherlands
Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet:
Good bread, good butter and good cheese
Is good English and good Friese.
Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler
Germany
Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before pressing.
This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago.
The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.
Whale Cheese
U.S.A.
In The Cheddar Box, Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the whales.
White, Fromage Blanc
France
Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten fresh, with or without salt.
White Cheddar
U.S.A.
Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.
This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (See Gorgonzola.)
White Stilton
England
This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag.
Whitethorn
Ireland
Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except that it is colored.
Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch
Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at Itzehoe.
Wiltshire or Wilts
England
A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (See North Wilts.)
Wisconsin Factory Cheeses
U.S.A.
Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too young.
Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss.
Withania
India
Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.
Y
Yoghurt, or Yogurt
U.S.A.
Made with Bacillus bulgaricus, that develops the acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel.
York, York Curd and Cambridge York
England
A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.
Yorkshire-Stilton
Cotherstone, England
This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung.
York State
U.S.A.
Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars.
Young America
U.S.A.
A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.
Yo-yo
U.S.A.
Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.
Z
Ziegel
Austria
Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months.
Ziegenkäse
Germany
A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.
I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food
made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey bread.
II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes.
Zips see Brinza.
Zomma
Turkey
Similar to Caciocavallo.
Zwirn see Tschil.
