June 10, 1654.
Journey through Holstein. In his coach, through God’s goodness, Whitelocke slept well, and all his people on the ground on fresh straw, yet not so soundly as to hinder their early rising this morning, when they were quickly ready, none having been put to the trouble of undressing themselves the last night. His carriages, twelve great waggons, went away about four o’clock this morning, some of the gentlemen’s servants in the van, one upon each waggon; his porter, butlers, and others, in a waggon in the rear, with store of pistols, screwed guns, swords, and other arms, for their defence. Whitelocke came forth about six o’clock with his own two coaches, and eight waggons for the rest of his followers. In some of their waggons they drive three horses on-breast, and each waggon will hold eight persons. They passed by better houses in this dorf than that where they quartered, which the harbingers excused, coming thither late and being strangers.
The country was still Holstein, of the same nature as yesterday. In the lower grounds they saw many storks, one whereof was killed by one of Whitelocke’s company with his gun,—a thing not endured here, where they are very superstitious, and hold it an ill omen where any of them is killed. But Whitelocke, blessed be God! found it not so; yet he warned his people not to kill any of them, to avoid offence to the country, who report that these birds will not resort to any place but where the people are free, as in the United Provinces, where they have many of them, and do carefully preserve them, and near to Hamburg and other Hanse Towns.
About a mile from Kettell is a great gate cross the highway, where they take toll for the Duke of Holstein of all the waggons and carriages, a loup-shilling apiece (that is, little more than an English penny). This gate they shut against Whitelocke, but being informed who he was, they presently opened it again, and a gentleman came to Whitelocke’s coach-side, excusing the shutting of the gate, being before they knew who it was that passed by. He told Whitelocke the custom and right of this toll, but that nothing was demanded of ambassadors, who were to pass freely, especially the Ambassador of the Protector and Commonwealth of England, to whom the Duke, his master, he said, was a friend. Whitelocke thanked the gentleman for his civility, acknowledging the Protector to be a friend to the Duke, and so they passed on.
About a mile and a half before they came to Hamburg, Captain Parkes, of the ‘President’ frigate, and Captain Minnes, of the ‘Elizabeth’ frigate, met Whitelocke on the way, and told him all was well in England, and that by command of the Protector they had brought those two frigates into the Elbe to transport him into England. Whitelocke told them he was very glad to see them, especially on this occasion. As they were walking and discoursing of the ships and their voyage, a great number of persons and coaches, the Resident Bradshaw, with the treasurer, the doctor, their minister, and almost all the English company, with twenty-two coaches, came to meet Whitelocke on the way, and to bring him with the more respect to Hamburg. All alighted out of their coaches, and, after salutations, the Resident told Whitelocke that the occasion of their coming forth was to testify their respects to Whitelocke, and to desire him to do their company the honour to accept of the English house at Hamburg for his entertainment. Whitelocke gave them hearty thanks for their respects to the Protector and to the Commonwealth whereof they were members, in this honour which they did to their servant. He accepted of their courteous offer, desiring the company and conversation of his countrymen above all others. They walked a little on foot together, where the Lord Resident (so they styled him) showed Whitelocke his last week’s letters from Thurloe, mentioning the imprisonment of many upon suspicion that they were engaged in a plot against the Protector, and that the serious considerable malignants discovered it. He also delivered to Whitelocke private letters from his wife and other friends.
About a mile from the place where they met was a fair inn by the wayside, where the Resident moved Whitelocke to make a halt and rest himself, because if he should then go directly to the town, he would come into it just at dinner-time, which would not be convenient. Upon his persuasion, and perceiving that a preparation was here made, Whitelocke went in, where the English company entertained him with a plentiful dinner at a long table holding above sixty persons. From hence, with Whitelocke’s approbation, the Resident, as from himself, sent to the Governor of the Militia at Hamburg, as Whitelocke had done before to the Lords, to advertise them of his coming. The Governor returned thanks, and said that two senators were appointed to receive Whitelocke at the Port. After dinner they all took their coaches. With Whitelocke was the Resident and Treasurer; the rest in the other coaches, the pages and lacqueys riding and walking by.
The country is here low and rich, sprinkled with rivers, and adorned with many neat and sweet houses belonging to the citizens of Hamburg, who resort to those houses in the summer-time with their families to have the fresh air.
Arrival at Hamburg. Almost an English mile before they came to the town, the highway was full of people come forth to see Whitelocke pass by. At the port were no Senators to receive him, but great guards of musketeers and multitudes of all sorts of people, there and through all the streets unto his lodging thronging so that the coaches could not pass till the guards made way. The people were very courteous, and Whitelocke answered to the meanest their civility, which is pleasing and not costly. The windows and doors were also crowded, which showed the populousness of the place and their expectation as to the Commonwealth of England. They brought Whitelocke to the English house, which is fair and large, the first room below, according to the fashion of Lübeck; the chambers, especially where Whitelocke lay, handsomely furnished.
Reception of the Senate of Hamburg. Within half an hour after his arrival, an officer of the town, in the nature of a master of the ceremonies, came from the Lords of the town to bid Whitelocke welcome thither, and to know what hour he would appoint for admittance of some of the Lords to visit him. Whitelocke returned thanks to the Lords for their respects, and prayed the gentleman to tell them that whensoever they pleased to give him the honour of a visit, they should be welcome to him. Within half an hour after came two Senators, Herr Jurgen van Holtz and Herr Jacob Silm. After ceremonies passed, Holtz spake in French to Whitelocke, to this effect:—
“Monseigneur, qui êtes Ambassadeur Extraordinaire de sa Sérénissime Altesse Oliver, par la grâce de Dieu Seigneur Protecteur de la République d’Angleterre; aussitôt que les Messieurs de cette ville ont été avertis de votre intention de passer par cette ville-ci, ils ont été désireux de témoigner leurs très-humbles respects à Monsieur le Protecteur et à votre personne en particulier, en suite [de quoi] nous avons reçu commandement de vous venir saluer, et faire à votre Excellence la bienvenue en cette ville. Ils sont extrêmement aises de l’heureux succès que Dieu vous a donné en votre négociation en Suède, et qu’il lui a plu aussi vous donner un bon passage, et favoriser votre retour jusqu’en ce lieu, après avoir surmonté beaucoup de difficultés, et échappé beaucoup de dangers, et nous prions sa Divine bonté qu’il vous rende en sauveté dans votre pays. Nous sommes aussi commandés de reconnaître les faveurs que Monseigneur le Protecteur d’une si grande République a faites à notre ville et aux habitans d’icelle, et particulièrement durant la guerre entre l’Angleterre et les Pays Bas, en libérant et déchargeant nos navires. Nous souhaitons à ce fleurissant état la continuation et l’accroissement de la faveur Divine pour leur conservation et accroissement de plus en plus, et nous espérons que Monseigneur le Protecteur continuera avec la République ses faveurs envers notre ville, qui sera toujours prête de leur rendre tous offices et humbles respects.”
After a little recollection, Whitelocke answered in French to the Senator’s speech thus:—
“Messieurs, j’ai grande occasion de louer le nom de Dieu, de sa protection de moi et de ma suite, en notre long et périlleux voyage, et pour l’heureux succès qu’il m’a donné en ma négociation, et ma sauve arrivée en ce lieu, en mon retour en mon pays. Je vous désire de remercier Messeigneurs les Sénateurs de cette ville du respect qu’ils ont témoigné envers sa Sérénissime Altesse mon maître et la République d’Angleterre, par l’honneur qu’ils ont fait à leur serviteur, de quoi je ne manquerai d’en informer: j’avais grande envie de voir cette illustre ville, et mes compatriotes qui par accord vivent ici, desquels j’ai appris avec beaucoup de contentement que leurs priviléges ici étaient maintenus par Messeigneurs les magistrats, lesquels je désire d’être informés que son Altesse mon maître prendra en fort bon part le respect et la justice qu’on fera aux Anglais qui se trouvent ici, chose que je croie tournera en avantage aux uns et aux autres. Je vous rends grâces aussi de vos bons souhaits pour la prospérité de notre nation, à laquelle Dieu a donné tant de preuves de sa présence, et je prie le même Dieu aussi pour l’heureux succès de cette ville, et de tous les habitans d’icelle.”
After Whitelocke had done, the Senator again spake to him, desiring him, in the name of the Lords of the town, to accept a small present which they had sent, in testimony of their respects towards him, and said that it was somewhat for his kitchen and somewhat for his cellar. The present which they sent for his kitchen, and was laid upon the pavement in the hall, was this:—four great whole sturgeons, two great fresh salmons, one calf, two sheep, two lambs. The present for the cellar was a hogshead of Spanish wine, a hogshead of claret wine, a hogshead of Rhenish wine, a hogshead of Hamburg beer, a hogshead of Serbster beer. Whitelocke ordered the men that brought this present to be rewarded with ten rix-dollars. He desired the senators to return his hearty thanks to the Lords for the noble present which they sent him; and after many compliments and ceremonies Whitelocke, giving the Senators the right hand, conducted them to their coach, and so they parted.
The English company entertained, with a great supper, Whitelocke and his company, who had more mind to sleep than to eat. Monsieur Hannibal Schestedt, late Viceroy of Norway, sent a gentleman to Whitelocke to know what time he would appoint for him to come and visit Whitelocke, who gave the usual answer, that whensoever he pleased to come he should be welcome.