CONTENTS

PAGE
Introduction. By Sir Francis Younghusband, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E.3

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION

By Brigadier-General Hon. C. G. Bruce, C.B., M.V.O.

CHAP.
ITo the Base Camp[17]
IIThe Assault on the Mountain[50]
IIIThe Return by Kharta[77]

THE FIRST ATTEMPT

By George H. Leigh-Mallory

IVThe Problem[121]
VThe Highest Camp[150]
VIThe Highest Point[183]

THE ATTEMPT WITH OXYGEN

By Captain George Finch

VIIThe Second Attempt[227]
VIIIConclusions[251]
IXNotes on Equipment[262]

THE THIRD ATTEMPT

By George H. Leigh-Mallory

XThe Third Attempt[273]
XIConclusions[287]

NOTES

By T. Howard Somervell

XIIAcclimatisation at High Altitudes[299]
XIIIColour in Tibet[309]
XIVTibetan Culture[313]

NATURAL HISTORY

By Dr. T. G. Longstaff, M.D.

XVNatural History[321]
Index[338]