CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
PAGE
Leaves London for Plymouth—The despatch vessel—They take aFrench prize—The prisoners—An alarm—Cadiz—Malta—Lifeon board—The Dardanelles—Takes boat for Constantinople[1]
CHAPTER II
Constantinople—Capture of the Black Joke—Life in Constantinople—Itsdangers—Friends—Audience of caimacam—Trip up the Bosphorus[13]
CHAPTER III
Constantinople continued—Dangers of sketching—Turkish architecture—ATurkish acquaintance—Society in Constantinople—Visit to the Princes' Islands[24]
CHAPTER IV
Leaves Constantinople—By Troy, Salonica, Mycone, Delos, toAthens—Life in Athens—Acquaintances—Byron, &c.[40]
CHAPTER V
Trip to Ægina—Discovery and transportation of the Marbles toAthens—Efforts to sell them[49]
CHAPTER VI
Life in Athens—Eleusis—Transportation of Ægina Marbles to Zante[59]
CHAPTER VII
Zante—Colonel Church—Leaves Zante to make tour of the Morea—Olympia—Bassæ—Discoveryof bas-reliefs—Forced to desist from excavations[68]
CHAPTER VIII
Andritzena—Caritzena—Megalopolis—Benighted—Kalamata[79]
CHAPTER IX
Trip to Maina—Its relative prosperity—Return to Kalamata—Secondtrip to Maina—Murginos—Sparta—Napoli to Athens[88]
CHAPTER X
Ægina Marbles called for by British Government ships—LeavesAthens for Crete and Egypt with Hon. Francis North—Canea—Conditionof Crete—By land—Retimo—Kalipo Christo—Candia—Audienceof the pasha—His band—The archbishop—Themilitary commandant—Turkish society—Life in Candia[102]
CHAPTER XI
Expedition to the Labyrinth—Delli Yani—The interior—The returnto Candia—Life there—Rejoins Mr. North—Bad weather—Expeditionto Egypt abandoned—Scio—Leaves Mr. North to goto Smyrna—Storms—Danger and cold—Arrives at Smyrna[120]
CHAPTER XII
Life in Smyrna—Trip to Trios—Foster falls in love—Cockerellstarts alone for town of Seven Churches—Pergamo—Knifnich—Sumeh—Commerceall in the hands of Greeks—Karasman Oglu—Turcomans—Sardis—AllahSheri—Crosses from Valley of Hermus to that of the Meander—Hierapolis—Danger of thecountry—Turns westwards[134]
CHAPTER XIII
Back into civilisation—Nasli Bazar—Nysa—Guzul—Hissar (Magnesia)—Theplague—Aisaluck (Ephesus)—Scala Nuova—Astorm—Samos—Priene—Canna—Geronta—Knidos—Rhodes—Mr.North again—Sails for Patara—Castel Rosso—Cacava—Myra—Theshrine of St. Nicolas—Troubles with natives—Awater snake—Finica—Carosi—Olympus—Volcanic fire—Phaselis—Fallsin with the Frederiksteen[153]
CHAPTER XIV
Adalia—Satalia (Sidé)—Alaia—Hostility of natives—Selinty—CapeAnemurium—Visit of a pasha—Chelindreh—Porto Cavaliero—Seleucia—Aprivateer—Natives hostile—Pompeiopolis—Tarsous—Apoor reception—Explores a lake—Castle of Ayas—CaptainBeaufort wounded by natives—Sails for Malta[173]
CHAPTER XV
Malta—Attacked by bilious fever—Sails to Palermo—Segeste—Leavesfor Girgenti—Immigrant Albanians—Selinunto—Travellingwith Sicilians—Girgenti—Restores the Temple of theGiants—Leaves for Syracuse—Occupations in Syracuse—Saleof the Ægina Marbles—Leaves for Zante[199]
CHAPTER XVI
Athens—The excavation of marbles at Bassæ—Bronstedt's mishap—Fateof the Corinthian capital of Bassæ—Severe illness—Stackelberg'smishap—Trip to Albania with Hughes and Parker—Thebes—Livadia—The five emissaries—State of thecountry—Merchants of Livadia—Delphi—Salona—Galaxidi—Patras—Previsa—Nicopolis—Arta—Theplague—Janina[216]
CHAPTER XVII
Ali Pasha—Psallida—Euphrosyne—Mukhtar—Starts for a trip toSuli—Cassiopeia—Unable to ford river—Turns back to Janina—Leavesto return to Athens—Crosses the Pindus through thesnow—Malakash—A robber—Meteora—Turkish rule—Themonastery—By Trikhala, Phersala, Zituni, Thermopylæ and Livadia to Athens[235]
CHAPTER XVIII
Athens—To Zante for sale of Phigaleian Marbles—Returns toAthens—Fever—Spencer Stanhope—Trip to Marathon, &c.—Ramazan—Livingout in the country—A picnic at Salamis—Presentedwith a block of Panathenaic frieze—Trip to Ægina—Leaves Athens for Italy[252]
CHAPTER XIX
Naples—Pompeii—Rome—The German Rester got rid of—Socialsuccess in Rome—Leaves for Florence—Bartholdy and theNiobe group—Lady Dillon—The Wellington Palace—Pisa—Tourin the north—Meets Stackelberg again—Returns toFlorence and Rome—Homeward bound—Conclusion[269]
[FRONTISPIECE]
Portrait of C. R. Cockerell, after a Pencil Drawing by
J. D. Ingres.

TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN EUROPE
AND THE LEVANT