The Boy's Own Book of Indoor Games and Recreations / A Popular Encyclopædia for Boys

by C. Stansfeld Hicks; John Nevil Maskelyne; Gordon Stables

CHAPTER XII.—CHESS—SINGLE AND DOUBLE, ETC.

I.—Chess for Beginners.—By Herr Meyer.

THE UNIVERSAL NOTATION.

Problem No. 1.—By Herr Meyer.

7 + 5 = 12 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

Beginners sometimes are apt to capture a superior man for an inferior one, and thereby forget the danger in which they leave their K, as the following moves show:—

	White.	Black.
1,	P d4	P d5
2,	O f3	N f5
3,	O c3	P e6
4,	N g5	O f6
5,	P e3	N d6
6,	N d3	N g6
7,	N g6:	P hg6:
8,	K M	O c6
9,	L d3	O b4
10,	L b5†	K e7
11,	L b7:	M b8
12,	L a7:	O C2:
13,	O e5	M b6

White threatened O c6†. If the N d6 had taken the O e5, White would have lost the M a1 for the O c2, but have won the O f6 for a P.

14,	M a c1	O b4
15,	P a3	O c6

If O a6, then O a4. The position is now interesting. If White would try L b6; then Black would win by N e5:. White should now play O c6:† and then P f4, but forgetting the danger at h2, plays

16,	O d5:†	P d5:
17,	M c6:	N e5:
18,	M b6:

The P d4 ought to have taken the N e5. The position is now—

12 + 10 = 22 pieces.

Black to play and mate in six (6) moves.

Solution.

	18,	N h2:†
19,	K h1	N d6†
20,	K g1	M h1†
21,	K h1:	L h8†
22,	N h6	L h6:†
23,	K g1	L h2‡

The Endings of Games.

The following diagram illustrates a mate in three moves, which the beginner should learn early, and which is obtained from the original position of the thirty-two pieces by the following eleven moves:—

	White.	Black.
1,	P e4	P e5
2,	P f4	P d6
3,	P d4	P d4:
4,	L d4:	O c6
5,	N b5	O f6
6,	O c3	O h5
7,	O f3	L f6
8,	P e5	P e5:
9,	P e5:	L g6
10,	N d2	L g2:
11,	KM	L f3:

12 + 14 = 26 pieces.

White to play and mate in three (3) moves.

Solution.

12,	L d8†	K d8:
13,	N g5††	K e8
14,	M d8‡

Problem No. 2.—By G. Chocholous.

6 + 3 = 9 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

In the last two games we gave the first move to White, but will now give it to Black, and show another series of moves, which lead to a pretty termination.

	Black.	White.
1,	P e5	P b3
2,	N c5	N b2
3,	P d6	P e3
4,	O f6	O f3
5,	N g4	O c3
6,	K M	N e2
7,	N f3:	P f3:

It is better for White to take with the P than with the N, for the M h1 can move to g1, and occupy the important g file, in which the black K stands.

8,	O c6	M g1
9,	O e7	O e4
10,	O e4:	P e4:
11,	O g6	P d4
12,	P d4:	P d4:
13,	N b6	P a4
14,	P c6	N c4
15,	L h4	L d3
16,	L h5	K d2
17,	O h4	P d5

White is now tempting Black to give the check with the O.

18,	O f3†	L f3:
19,	L f3:

12 + 12 = 24 pieces.

White to play and mate in four (4) moves.

Solution.

	19,	M g7:†
20,	K h8	M g8††
21,	K g8:	M g1†
22,	L g2	M g2:‡

Problem No. 3.—By W. Furnival.

9 + 4 = 13 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

Problem No. 4.—By H. F. I. Meyer.

6 + 6 = 12 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

The following is the termination of a game played by Adolph Anderssen:—

8 + 10 = 18 pieces.

White to play and mate in five (5) moves.

Solution.

	Black.	White.
1,	L e6†	L e6:
2,	O d7 (threatening a mate with the M at b8).
		L d7:
3,	M b8†	K b8:
4,	P d7:	Any move.
5,	P d8 L‡

Solutions.

Problem No. 1.—1, P e8 O, any of four moves. 2, O d6 or f6, mate, accordingly.

Problem No. 2.—1, K c5, K g2: (or, Q, R, S, T, U). 2, L f3:‡.—(Q) O g1. 2, O g3‡.—(R) O h2. 2, O f2‡.—(S) O d2 or e1. 2, L h7‡.—(T) O g5 or h4. 2, L b1‡.—(U) O d4 or e5. 2, L b1 or h7‡.

Problem No. 5.

White: K a6; L f5; M a5, h1; N g1, h5; O b8, d1; P b2, c2, d5, g6, h3. Black: K c4; L g8; M h4; N f1; O a3; P a4, b4, b6, g2. (13 + 9 = 22 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

Problem No 6.

White: K b7; L f4; M d8; N a2; P a3, e5. Black: K c5; M h5; N f7, g1; O a8; P a5, b5, c2, c7. (6 + 9 = 15 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

Problem No. 7.

8 + 8 = 16 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

Problem No. 8.—By G. Hume.

5 + 8 = 13 pieces.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The following game was played, and the mate in eight moves announced by H. F. L. Meyer.

	White.	Black.
1,	P b4	P e5
2,	N b2	P d6
3,	P b5	P a6
4,	P c4	P b5:
5,	P b5:	N e6
6,	P a4	N e7
7,	P e3	O f6
8,	O c3	K M
9,	O f3	O b d7
10,	O g5	P h6
11,	O e6:	P e6:
12,	N c4	P d5
13,	N b3	O c5
14,	N c2	P c6
15,	P d4	O c d7
16,	P e5:	O e5:
17,	O d5:

White wins a P, but the move is really a bad one. He ought to have played K g1 M f1.

	17,	O d5:
18,	N e5:	N b4†
19,	K e2

The K could not well move to f1, for the O would have checked at e3, and then taken the L.

	19,	L g5
20,	N b2

The N might have moved to f4, but then the black L would have taken the P g2, and won. Indeed, White’s game is hopeless, as the following diagram and the solution show:—

12 + 11 = 23 pieces.

Black to play and mate in eight (8) moves.

Solution.

	20,	M f2:†
21,	K f2:

If K d3, the mate follows in three more moves by L e3:, O b6, and P c5.

	21,	L e3:†
22,	K f1	M f8†
23,	N f5	M f5:†
24,	L f3	M f3:†
25,	P f3:	L f3:†
26,	K g1	N c5†
27,	N d4	N d4:‡

General Remarks on Games.

The openings and endings of games, which we have already explained, will assist a beginner in understanding the following observations.

Begin by moving the centre P’s (in the e and d, and also in the c and f files), then move the N’s to the fourth, third, or fifth squares, and the O’s to the third or second squares in the central files. Do not play the L too soon. Place the men so that they protect one another, that they guard the K, and that they can easily attack the opponent’s men, especially the K. Always look out that your K is safe against checks, or, at any rate, against any that would be hurtful. Especially watch the vulnerable points f1 and f7. Do not play your K out early in the game, but try to move it together with one of the M’s, especially on the K’s side, in order that your officers may have freedom of action, and then you will in most cases do well to let the g and h P’s remain in their places. When, however, most of the officers (especially the L and the two N’s) have been exchanged, then you must generally bring your K forward to support your P’s, etc. Sometimes you can be patient with the KM movement, namely, wait for a favourable opportunity to perform it on the right or left. Move the long way when your opponent has taken the short one, and you are able to attack him with your officers and pawns. In rare cases you move your K freely into the second row, mostly to f2 (or, if black, to f7), and this especially for the purpose of uniting your two M’s.

Do not give check unless you see the necessity for it. Give an early check if thereby you can force the K to move and thus prevent the KM movement. Be mindful of discovered checks, in which, besides the L and the M, the N is often active.

When you see a good move try to discover a still better one.

Generally keep the L so that it may not be pinned by an M or an N, or be attacked when an O checks.

In covering a check from an N or an M it is in most cases best to interpose a piece of the same kind in order to prevent the piece being pinned for a long time: but when the L checks, then you should interpose your L only, when you cannot well attack it by interposing an inferior piece, or when you cannot protect yourself with an O.

Try to attack two or three men at once in order to capture one; by doing so endeavour especially to make an attack upon the two principal pieces, the K and the L. The fittest pieces for this are the L and the O, and sometimes the M.

Let your P’s protect one another, use them for attacking the officers, try to get them into open files, and avoid doubling them. Push them forward on the side on which your opponent has placed his K, unless you have your K on the same side and wish to keep it safe against checks. Sometimes you can with safety place your K before an adverse P.

Try to get an open file for your M’s, and according to circumstances to move one or both into your opponent’s second row. Moving both into one file or row is called doubling them. Try to clear your P’s away in those files in which you can attack the K with your M’s. When you advance a P, consider if your opponent will take it with his P or push his on.

Do not exchange pieces unless you obtain an advantage by doing it, but when you have an advantage, then do it as often as possible. Sometimes you can with advantage give an M for an N or an O.

If one of your men is attacked and you cannot defend it, then try to make a counter-attack, and always consider the subsequent moves. Do not always take a piece which is offered to you, but consider the consequences.

If your L and another officer (M, N, or O) be attacked, and you can save the former but not the latter, then you will do well, if you can, to give the L for two minor officers, and then save your officer.

When you have a passed P, try to preserve it and to protect it by P’s. A P in the sixth or seventh row well supported is generally worth an officer.

Towards the end of the game you must use your K as an attacking officer. Keep it from an adverse O, so that it cannot easily be checked—that is, so that it stands in the same diagonal with one square intervening.

When each of you is left with an N and two or three P’s, then the game, as a rule, is easily drawn if the N’s stand on squares of different colours. Your K should generally be kept on a square of a different colour from that on which the adverse N stands. Let your P’s and N protect one another if you are afraid of losing, but keep the P’s on squares of a different colour when you wish to prevent the adverse K from coming near them.

Do not exchange an N for an O indiscriminately, for an N can impede the march of P’s more readily than an O. And when the major officers are off, remember that two N’s are stronger than an N and an O, or two O’s. Prevent an isolation and doubling of your P’s, for two of them protect each other against the K if the topmost is a passed one and no officer left. You can often give your last officer for one or two P’s, for these latter may win, whilst a minor officer very rarely can. Two P’s in the sixth row win, in most cases, against an M.

Lastly, when you are about to give mate, be mindful of stalemate.

II.—A New Chess Game.
‘The Jubilee.’—By Herr Meyer.

Each of the two players places alternately one of his sixteen men, beginning with the K, upon any square of his first three rows. The two N’s may, if preferred, be placed on the same colour. A check within the first sixteen moves must immediately be covered, and should it not be possible to cover, then the player checked has lost the game. When all the men are placed, then the moving and taking begin, the player whose turn it is to play having the move. The K M move, that is, castling, is not permitted. The pawns move, and take in passing. A white P in the first row, or a black P in the eighth row, can start by moving one, two, or three squares, or such a P may first move one square and afterwards one or two squares, but in his adversary’s territory only one square at a time. When moving two or three squares it can be taken in passing. A black P on g 8 moving to g 5 can be taken by white P’s standing on f5, f6, h5, or h6. When a P reaches the last square, then the player promotes it and chooses any one of the seven officers which is not on the board, but when all the officers are on, then it remains a P for ever.

The letters from K to P are used for the six kinds of pieces, thus:—

The first game of this kind was played in June, 1887, between H. F. L. Meyer (White) and J. Swyer (Black). It is a so-called diagonal game, because the K’s are placed diagonally opposite one another (on h1 and a8); it would have been a straight game if the black K had been placed on h8. Both players surrounded their K’s with the P’s, and thus made sure to be safe against checks for a long time. The moves are the following:—

	White.	Black.
1,	K h1	K a8
2,	P g1	P a7
3,	P g2	P b7
4,	P h2	P b8
5,	P f2	P c8
6,	P h3	M d6
7,	M e1	M d8
8,	M e2	P a6[172]
9,	P f1	P b6
10,	P f3	P c7
11,	P g3	P c6
12,	N b2	N h8
13,	N a2	N h7
14,	O d2	O f7
15,	O e3	O h6
16,	L c1	L f8

The men are now placed thus:—

17,	N a3	P c5
18,	O d c4	P b5
19,	O d6:([a])	P d6
20,	O d5	N d5
21,	M e3	P c4
22,	P f4	N d4
23,	M e7	P c6
24,	O b4	N f6
25,	M 7 e6	N g7
26,	O d3:	P d3:
27,	L d2	P c5
28,	L d3:	P b4
29,	L d5	O g8
30,	N c1	O f h6
31,	P g4	O f6
32,	L f3	O h g8
33,	P g5	O e8 ([b])
34,	N d5	Resigns. ([c])

Notes.

(a) Black thought he might give the M for the O, and work the P’s through.

(b) He loses time in moving the O’s. He ought to have prevented the attack on the P b7.

(c) It is now useless to defend b7, for if M d7, then M e8:, and if L f7, then M e7.

III.—Another Jubilee Game.
Played on Jubilee Day.

The two players, same as last mentioned, agree to play a so-called Pyramid Game, that is, to place the Kings on e1 and e8, and to place the eight Pawns around each in the shape of a pyramid. After these nine moves they proceeded to place the remaining officers as follows:—

	White.	Black.
10,	O d3	M h8
11,	N f3	O c7
12,	M a1	O d6
13,	M a2	L h7
14,	N c3	N g7
15,	O b3	M b8
16,	L b2	N g6

The board now presents the following appearance:—

Now the moving and taking began thus:—

17,	N g7:	P g7:
18,	O e5	N e4
19,	P d3	N f3:
20,	O f3:	P f6
21,	P c4	P e5
22,	L c3	O e6
23,	M a5	P e4
24,	O fd2	L h1
25,	P g3	M h2
26,	O e4:	O e4:
27,	P e4:	L g1
28,	M f5	O g5
29,	O d2	P g6
30,	M f4	O h3
31,	M f3	O f2:
32,	M a5	O g4
33,	M g5	P g5:
34,	L g7	O f6

If he had played P d6, there would have followed 35, L g6:†, K d7; 36, L f5†, K c7; 37, L g4:, etc.

35,	L g6:†	K f8
36,	M f6:†	P f6:
37,	L f6:†	K e8
38,	L g6†	K e7
39,	L g7†	K d6
40,	P c5†

and the game was a draw by perpetual check, for if K c7, then 41, L e5†, K b7; 42, L b2†, K c6; 43, L f6†, etc.

These two games show a remarkable variety in the arrangement of the pieces, and some beautiful new problems can be constructed in accordance with the placements and movements of the Pawns. Indeed, some ancient problems gave the impulse for the invention of this kind of game in June, 1874, when the first game of a similar arrangement was played between H. F. L. Meyer and H. J. C. Andrews. In 1874, however, the sixteen men were placed on the board all at once.

IV.—The Game of Double Chess.
By the late Captain Crawley and Herbert Mooney.

It seems an odd thing that in this prolific age of literature the most fascinating of all nineteenth-century games should lack a recognized authority as to its play. It is probably for this reason that Double Chess has so long a time languished in comparative obscurity, winning its way by slow degrees only into club and family circle.

No two strangers could be found to agree as to the rules which should govern its play, and the most imperative rule of all, namely, that of absolute silence, has been broken again and again with a royal disregard of all fine or penalty.

Time after time has it been our lot to sit over a foolish game where one’s partner would insist either in giving way to vocal bursts of impatience, or authoritatively insist upon a move which happened to chime in with his or her ideas. It must be confessed that the fair sex are most to blame in this matter. Though we are reluctant to upbraid them, we have no hesitation in saying that the infringement of this golden rule of silence is one of the fruitful sources of the hitherto unpopularity of the game.

How often have the writers waited in mute agony lest an exclamation of triumph or despair from their partners should reveal the imminent development of a well-planned scheme, and how they have plodded on, more from courtesy than any real interest, after such an event has taken place. We must insist that a heavy penalty for a breach of this golden rule should be rigidly enforced.

Let not the astute Single-chess player delude himself with the notion that he can march triumphantly to victory in this new game. Save that the pieces move in the same manner (with one exception) as in Single Chess, there is no similarity between them, and we must say that the relative interest of the two games is in favour of the younger born. At any rate, the writers think so. Beginners grow weary of Double Chess because they find it occupies an unreasonable length of time. This is caused by the fact that they maintain a desultory kind of warfare, each one selecting an adversary and fighting him on his own account.

Double Chess Board.

One hundred and sixty squares.

If the Double-chess player will remember that it is absolutely essential to watch his partner and second his moves, this state of things will speedily disappear. Those who wilfully neglect this may as well content themselves with Single Chess. No matter what their powers of calculation, they will never make decent Double-chess players.

Another imperative rule is always to make your attack to the right and defend on the left, taking care to guard your king against check by a double guard. These two rules will be referred to again at their proper time; but we cannot too strongly insist upon them, though, properly speaking, they have no place in the introductory remarks.

We have seen a very sensible and modest little brochure, by Captain George Hope Verney, which, unfortunately, is printed for private circulation only. We willingly bear testimony to its merits.

We must endeavour to combat the popular error that Double Chess is too complicated for ordinary players. Any one acquainted with the moves and rules of ordinary chess can soon become a proficient, and as for the notion that it requires a great Single-chess player to make a good Double-chess-player, we must call attention, by way of analogy, to the fact that gamekeepers generally make wretched rifle-shots.

Exception must be taken to the name, ‘Four-handed Chess,’ given by some players to this game. Why not Four-brained Chess, or Four-person Chess, on the same principle? Must we call Single Chess Two-handed Chess? Double Chess let it be called, since it has exactly double the number of pieces engaged.

The [diagram] which we give will afford an accurate idea of the board used in the game of Double Chess.

It should consist of one hundred and sixty squares, twenty-four extra squares on each side of the central squares.

It is advisable to have the board to fold in two, the blanks on each corner being convenient for the reception of taken pieces, enabling players to see at a glance the amount of their own or their opponents’ losses.

Having placed the pieces on the board as shown in the [diagram], taking care that the queens are on the same colour, the adversaries proceed to try for first move, an unquestionable advantage for eight moves.

This is done in the following manner: Red takes one of Black’s and one of his own pieces, and Black guesses, as in Single Chess. White and Green do the same. The conquerors then repeat, as in Single Chess. The victor has first move, and begins the attack, which should be directed towards his right-hand adversary.

His partner is now bound to remember that to him he must look for guidance, guessing at his plan of attack, and aiding him to the best of his ability.

Should the first mover decline to attack he will move on the left, say his king’s bishop’s knight to king’s bishop third for defence.

This will be sufficient warrant for his partner to make the attack and take the lead, as it is obvious that first mover wishes to follow instead of leading. In such an event, after the first round number one must look to number three for guidance.

The change is, at the best, a confession of weakness, and we cannot recommend its adoption, as in this game dash is most essential to success.

Each player makes a move in turn from right to left, and any player moving out of his turn ([Rule 11]) may be compelled to move the piece on which he has placed his hand, while his adversaries may also move out of their turn. The justice of this is obvious when one reflects that the mere indication of a piece may give a clue to the mover’s plan of attack or defence.

No consultation or suggestion of any kind is allowed as the game proceeds ([Rules 1] and [11]). Those who cannot restrain shuffling their feet, wriggling in their chairs, or grimacing over a certain move, had better be avoided as partners. Such a proceeding is more than undignified.

The pawns move only one square at a time, taking obliquely, as in Single Chess. When friendly pawns meet they leap over each other, and continue their progress until they reach partner’s king-row, when they return.

No object is gained in causing your pawn to reach your partner’s king-row, except that coming back it takes in reverse way.

It is therefore advisable when they meet to permit them to remain together for mutual protection, as in such position they command four squares-forward and backward.

Should pawns by repeated captures reach the adversary’s square, they become any pieces their player chooses to name, and such pieces cannot be taken except by a piece equivalent in rank, or by a king or queen ([Rule 8]).

As, however, it is next to impossible for a pawn to reach adversary’s square, seeing that it can only do so by repeatedly capturing antagonists, this advantage goes for very little.

A pawn on the return march should be marked by tying a piece of thread or a ring round its neck. But it will be found that but few, if any, pawns will have to be so treated, and this most likely will occur at the end of the game, when one or other of the kings is hard pressed, and the pawn is hastening to his assistance.

No player is allowed to expose either his own or his partner’s king to check, and, though he is not compelled to cover his partner’s check, it is advisable in most cases, when able to do so, as it will be found that when the king is checked by one adversary, the other will profit by it to obtain a piece and a position.

Bear in mind that in this game everything depends on mutual assistance and self-sacrifice. In nine cases out of ten the one who refuses to sacrifice in order to save his partner from checkmate brings speedy defeat on each.

Castling is not allowed; it is therefore advisable to get out one’s knights as soon as possible in order to give castles an opportunity of moving out of the way of a sudden combined attack.

Another advantage in getting out the knights is that their greatest value is at the beginning of the game.

Towards the end of the game, in consequence of the combined action of the pawns, and the distances to be traversed, a knight’s value is greatly reduced.

We have found it advantageous to exchange a knight for a bishop towards the middle of the game.

The great object of the game is by combined action to suddenly checkmate one adversary. His pieces, though not removed from the board, are then dead, and cannot return to life until the checkmate is removed.

They cannot be taken, but are practically useless, except as offering the shelter of inert matter to partner’s pieces.

One partner having been checkmated, the antagonists concentrate their attack upon the remaining one, with the enormous advantage of having two moves to his one!

Only, therefore, by making desperate sacrifices to release his partner from checkmate can the non-checkmated one hope to save the game, except his adversaries should stalemate him, when it is drawn.

While one is checkmated the adversaries may move in and out amongst his pieces with impunity, and should adversaries’ kings do so, they are not exposed to check, as the pieces are considered dead.

This is most important, as it enables the adversaries, having once secured checkmate, to render it permanent by pieces of lesser value, withdrawing important pieces to fight against remaining partner, who, although combating single-handed, may be numerically superior to both.

It is lawful to open adversary’s checkmate for the purpose of capturing any of his pieces, who by that means are returned to life. But it should be borne in mind that if in doing this stalemate is given, the game is drawn.

Though the adversary may at any time open checkmate, he cannot in the same move take a piece, but his partner may do so, and he may close the checkmate again at his discretion when it comes to his turn. (See [Rule 4].) The game is only won by both partners being checkmated.

A game is drawn when only one piece is left on the board, or when only pawns are left, as it is then impossible to secure a double checkmate.

But should each partner have a piece, or one of them two pieces, the game should be fought out, as, with the assistance of their kings, they may secure a double checkmate.

The adversaries have the forlorn hope of either taking one of their pieces—in which case the game is drawn—or of securing a stalemate.

This latter event, unlike the former case given, in which one was checkmated before the stalemate, will be a victory for them, as one king is free to move.

It is as well for beginners, having reached that stage of the game in which only two pieces are left, to declare the game drawn, with the honours of war attached to those with the two pieces left, as the game in that event will probably last long enough to tire out the patience of all engaged. Some ten years ago the writers sat from six o’clock in the evening until half-past four the following morning over a game which had dwindled down to the above-mentioned dimensions, and had all but given up the task as hopeless ere the desired result was obtained.

The pieces may range all over the board, as in Single Chess, and are equally at home in partners’ squares as in their own.

RULES AND PENALTIES.

1. Absolute silence must be maintained. Should a player give vent to an exclamation of vexation when his partner is about to move a piece, the adversaries may claim a pawn from any of his squares which does not expose him to check.

2. A player checkmated may not indicate to his partner how to obtain his release.

3. No piece may be moved which will discover check to player or his partner.

4. No player can release his antagonist from checkmate by taking any of his pieces.

5. Any player may call attention to the fact that his partner’s queen is in check.

6. But his own being in check, he may not direct attention to that.

7. A king is not in check by any of his partner’s pieces.

8. A pawn-piece can only be taken by a piece of its own rank, or by king or queen.

9. A player putting his hand on a piece must play it. If he remove his hand, the move must be considered as completed.

10. Adversaries’ kings cannot stand next each other on adjoining squares.

11. Should a player play out of his turn, both his antagonists may play out of theirs, and they are allowed to ask each other which of them is desirous of moving first.

12. No piece may be removed from the board unless legally captured.

13. A pawn can only move one square at a time, and not two squares first move, as in Single Chess.

14. The game is only won when both partners are checkmated. Should it be relinquished before such an event, it is to be considered drawn.

15. A player may not move his checkmated partner’s pieces.

16. Antagonistic pawns may not leap over one another.

17. A player may not take a piece while his king is in check, except to release himself from check.

18. A king may not move out of check if by so doing he exposes his partner’s king to check.

19. With kings and one piece only remaining, or with pawns only, the game is drawn.

REMARKS.

Never reproach your partner for having made a blunder. It is useless blowing up the groom after the horse is stolen; and as it is essential above all things that a cool head should be kept over this fascinating game, if your partner is inclined to be nervous, and you ‘nag’ at him, you may as well consider the game lost.

We remember an instance in America when a really good player, who had been wofully badgered by his partner for some blunders, remained for an hour and a half studying the board, lest he should make a false move and once more encounter his partner’s terrible sarcasm.

At the expiration of that period he arose without making the move, and vowed, as he could not see that which his partner deemed so important, he would never play another game of Double Chess. As far as our party was concerned, he kept his word, and thus a very enjoyable evening’s amusement was broken up.

It is almost needless to add, that while refraining from rousing your partner’s temper, it is equally important that you should control your own. It is very provoking to have a trap suddenly sprung upon you, thanks perhaps to your partner’s want of perspicuity, and lose an important piece just when you imagine you had a brilliant game in hand.

But however provoking this may be, getting angry will only make matters worse, for we defy an angry man to see two moves ahead. Keep cool, bow gracefully to the opposing storm, and wait with sweetness of temper for the turn of the tide.

Calmness and breeding are nowhere more requisite than at the Double-chess table. One cannot bully a stupid player into playing well, and the only thing to be done is to play the game rigorously, and give or take no more than the fixed rules require.

By adhering to this, all unpleasantness will be avoided, and this charming game will grow more and more in popularity. Should you unfortunately discover that constitutionally you are incapable of controlling your temper, abandon the game for ever. You will reap the reward of your self-denial in the knowledge that you will never again mar the pleasure of those whom Nature has cast in firmer mould.

Theoretical knowledge is of value, but practically it will be found more advantageous to play a straightforward game than to indulge in any scheme calculated for a great number of moves ahead. It is of the last importance that your partner should know what you are about, and aid you in your plans, else, despite your brilliant play, your airy fabric may vanish.

Therefore by all means choose such moves as will most readily lead him to divine your method of attack, bearing in mind that it is more important he should know it than that your adversaries should remain in ignorance of it.

Since the attack should invariably be made on the right-hand adversary, and the great danger is that you may be held in check by one foe while the other sweeps away your pieces, it is obvious that your left-hand defence must be of double strength, to prevent this result being obtained. Your knights in the early stages of the game will be found of value in this respect, and your bishops and queen should, as far as possible, be kept in readiness to swoop to your partner’s assistance, while he will be ready to aid you in a similar manner. Get out your castles as speedily as possible, even if you sacrifice a pawn in doing so, as they are of more importance in this game than in Single Chess, and are not nearly so well protected in their original positions. Your queen is of far more value than in Single Chess, and to capture her the sacrifice of a castle and bishop is, in our opinion, not too great.

Great care must be exercised in her movements. Calculate well, ere you place her in position, that you cannot be checked in two moves, or you lose her to a certainty.

We place the relative value of the pieces in Double Chess in the following scale:—

Queen	=	10
Castles	=	6
Red Bishop	=	5
White „	=	4
Knights at beginning of game	=	3
Kni„ts a „ the end	=	2
Pawns	=	1

although practically the last are of little value; certainly not half so valuable as in Single Chess.

Other players may place a slightly different value on the pieces, but this will in a great measure depend on their play. While some work the queen to death, others rely more on their other pieces—in our opinion the wisest play in the long run.

THE BOARD AND MEN.

We have found a board of two-inch squares suit our purpose, and those which fold in the centre, leaving a blank in each corner, seem to us the handiest.

If bone black and white and red and green men cannot be obtained easily, the ordinary wooden black and yellow, and bone red and white, will answer the purpose just as well, but any turner will turn a double set for about two pounds.

Captain George Hope Verney says, in his Four-Handed Chess:—

‘I use two sets of Staunton men. One set is of black and yellow wood, and the other is of red and white bone.

‘The latter was made to order for me at the Civil Service Store in the Haymarket, at a cost of about eighteen shillings.’

The base of the king measures one and five-eighths of an inch, and is three and a half inches high.

EXAMPLES IN OPENING.

First round—Black king’s pawn to king’s third; green ditto; white ditto; red ditto.

Second round—Black bishop takes red bishop; green queen takes black queen; white queen takes red queen; red king takes white queen.

Third round—Black king takes green queen; green moves queen’s pawn one, white king’s knight’s pawn one, red king’s knight to royal square.

Fourth round—Bishop takes knight’s pawn.

Thus at the beginning of the fourth round red and green find themselves obliged to put up with the loss of a bishop and pawn, and a strong attack, to be followed up by the knights, will be directed against red, who is severely crippled. Should green check black king, it will do him no good, as black king’s bishop is protected by white.

Red and green have drawn disaster upon themselves at the beginning of the game by imitating their opponents’ move, and black and white thus early starting with an advantage and well-defined attack, should win the game, since red has not only lost a piece and pawn, but also a move.

Should green check black king third round, he will lose his bishop. Should he take white’s bishop, black will retreat without breaking square, as that would liberate red’s castle. He will thus save his partner a pawn.

A variation of the same opening will be for black second round to play his knight to bishop’s third, thence to castle four. If this opening is not seen through and frustrated before four moves, green loses his queen. But red can easily frustrate the design, or green king’s bishop’s knight to bishop’s third will suffice.

These two openings will suffice for the beginner; and our readers can now follow up the subject as far as they wish.

CIRCULAR CHESS.

Of chess in the middle ages there were no less than fifty-four varieties—not gambits, but different ways of playing the game. To one of these, known as [Double Chess], we have already devoted some pages; and we now give the variety known as Circular Chess, which was played on a board of the same pattern as the [illustration], on which the pieces were arranged as shown, the line with the arrow-heads representing the edge of the board in the ordinary game, and the movements taking place right and left from it.

A pawn attaining this line is exchangeable for a piece, as in the common game, but it offers no barrier to the passage of the men. The moves are in all respects the same as in ordinary chess. The peculiarity of the shape, however, considerably reduces the importance of the bishops and increases that of the rooks and queens.

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CHAPTER XIII.—DRAUGHTS.
By the late Captain Crawley.

I. All About the Game.

It has been said by one who has a right to express an opinion on the subject (Mr. Wylie, of Fife, the greatest player and analyst in Scotland) that Draughts is a more intricate and ingenious game than its proud rival, Chess, of higher antiquity and of more intellectual scope. So much so, that in a hundred years a man could not exhaust its varieties. Edgar Allan Poe, the author of The Raven, expresses a like opinion: ‘The higher powers of the reflective intellect are more decidedly tasked by the unostentatious game of Draughts, or chequers, than by all the elaborate frivolities of Chess.’

Without venturing to discriminate between the merits and claims of the two games—both of which I love—I purpose attempting to show my readers some of the prominent features of the ancient and honourable game of Draughts.

You are all, doubtless, acquainted with the form of the draught-board and men; with the fact that the game is played by two persons on a board of sixty-four squares, with twenty-four men, twelve of one colour and twelve of another. At starting, the men occupy the three rows of squares on opposite sides of the board. The men may be placed on either colour, but for convenience of notation it is usual to select the white squares. The moves of all the men are alike—diagonal from square to square, in an upward direction from the player. They take by passing over the captured man into a vacant square beyond. One, two, or more men can be taken by the same move, always providing that there is a vacant square to pass into at each jump. When a man has arrived at either of the four squares on the opposite side of the board he is crowned, and becomes a King. The crowning is a simple ceremony—merely placing one draughtman, of the same colour, on the top of the other. The kings have the power of moving forward and backward, one square at a time, diagonally. The object of the game is to capture all your opponent’s men, or so to block them in that they cannot move. The player who first accomplishes one of these ends wins the game.

One or two rules are absolute. The offered man must be taken, when the player says ‘Take,’ and a man touched must, if it can, be moved.

In placing the board for the game, the double corners must be at the right-hand of the player, which brings us at once to the

NOTATION OF DRAUGHTS

—the method by which the moves of a game or problem are recorded. It is not necessary to show a diagram of the Numbered Board if you remember the order of the figures. The first white square on the left hand, uppermost, is 1, and the rest go from left to right, horizontally, till we arrive at the last white square on the right, 32. In recording the moves of a game we say 11 to 15, 24 to 19, and so on. A very little practice will make you sufficiently familiar with this easy system of notation, and soon enable you to play a game by memory without the board.

To show you the nature of a Problem, and the way to record its solution, I will append a diagram.

White to play and win in eight moves.

The difficulty here is the first move. That discovered, all the others follow as a matter of course. This is the solution:—

White.				Black.
10	to	6	1	2	to	9
18	to	14	2	9	to	18
15	to	22	3	13	to	17
22	to	13	4	29	to	25
13	to	17	5	25	to	30
17	to	22	6	30	to	25
22	to	29	7	4	to	8
11	to	4	8

by which you will see that Black’s moves are all forced, and White wins the game.

Draughts is played in three ways: the Winning (and most usual) game, the Losing, and the Polish game. The last, not much practised in this country, is played on a larger board, and the men take backwards or forwards.

THE RULES.

Draughts, as played in Great Britain and in all English-speaking countries, is governed by a few simple and easily-understood Rules, as follows:—

1. The board is to be placed with the double corner to the right hand of the player.

2. The choice of colour is determined by lot. After the first game the men are commonly changed.

3. Black has invariably the first move.

4. A man touched, except for the purpose of adjusting it, must be moved if there be an open square into which it can be moved.

5. A man moved over the angle of a square must, if it can, be moved to that square.

6. A man en prise must be taken; or if it be left untaken by accident, it may be ‘huffed’—that is, taken off the board by the adversary. The ‘huff’ is not a move, but the player insisting on it, huffs and moves.

7. Five minutes is the limit of time for considering a move; when a piece is en prise, one minute only is allowed. Penalty: loss of the game.

8. A false move must be replaced, and a legal move made.

9. A wrong man removed from the board can only be replaced by consent of the adversary.

10. When two kings only remain on the board, the game must be won in twenty moves on either side, or abandoned as drawn.

11. With three or more kings, or men, to two, the player with the weaker force may insist on the game being won within forty moves on each side, or be drawn. In each of these cases notice must be given by the player that he will count the moves.

12. When two or more men are taken at one coup, no man captured must be taken from the board till the combined move is completed.

13. A man moved up to the last row of squares on the other side must be immediately crowned; but the king cannot play till a move has been made on the other side.

Bye-laws.—No pointing over the board or obstruction to the adversary is allowed.—Matches, unless otherwise agreed, consist of an equal number of games.—All disputes to be decided by an umpire or other disinterested player.—Neither player is allowed, without the consent of his opponent, to leave the room during the progress of a game.—Any breach of the rules involves the loss of the game.

Above all, keep your temper!

Problem I.

White to play and mate in seven moves.

TWO KINGS TO ONE.

A common practice with young players is to give man for man; but this is only advantageous when you are a piece ahead, and even then it is sometimes found difficult to win within the twenty moves allowed. There is, however, no secret in the matter. The player with two kings can always force a win if he knows how to set about it. From any part of the board he can, in about eight or nine moves, drive the single king into the double corner, and when he is there he wins in eight moves, thus:—

Black.			White.
10	to	6	5	to	1
14	to	10	1	to	5
6	to	1	3	to	9
1	to	5	9	to	13

It is at this point the tyro generally makes a mistake. Instead of moving away, he presses on his adversary, and gives him a chance of escape. He must move into square 15, not into 14:—

10	to	15	13	to	17
15	to	18

Now whether White move into 13 or 21, he is equally pinned by the Black at 22.

Of course a like series of moves in the other double corner produces a like result.

In the above, and all the other diagrams, the Black men occupy the upper half of the board.

To show, however, the mischief of unscientific play, we will suppose the kings to have got into the following position, when Black, with the move, can do no more than effect a drawn game:—

Here Black must give away a man. He must go to either square 17, 25, or 26. Let us suppose he moves to 26, White takes, and goes into square 31. Now, if Black go to 25 instead of 17, he loses the game in two moves. White moves to 26, and pins him on 22, in either the three squares to which he is compelled to go.

TWO KINGS TO TWO.

In ordinary circumstances, two kings to two must be a draw. Neither player can force the other out of the double line. Suppose, however, you can get the pieces into this position:—

Black, with the move, wins by playing a king from 26 to 23, and taking two for one. Beware, in the position shown, that you do not move backward instead of forward. Should you do so, you may perhaps get into some such fix as this:—

Black to play and lose. White to play and draw.

White must, moreover, be careful not to get his men into a line with a square between into which Black can move, technically known as ‘The Breeches.’

Black to play and draw.

This is a trap into which young players are very apt to fall. Beware of it. Had White the move, he, of course, could easily win, either by fixing the Black king in a side square, or by the double-corner moves already shown.

THREE KINGS TO TWO.

When you are left with three kings to two, you must effect an exchange, or the game may be prolonged indefinitely. It is sometimes rather difficult to force an exchange, but it is not impossible if you go the right way to work. The possessor of the two kings commonly gets one in each double corner. The mode of attack in this case is to get your three kings into a line, so as to enable you to give king for king. However hard the other player tries he must eventually succumb. Take a common case. Place the kings on the board as in the [diagram], the White on 32 and 5, the Black on 10, 18, and 19:—

Black to play and win, or White to play and Black to win.

If Black play he moves into 6 or 24. White has the choice of two moves only, either of the double corners.

Black.			White.
19	to	24	5	to	1
18	to	15	1	to	5
10	to	6

Now, whether White move from 5 to 1 or from 32 to 28, he must submit to an exchange, for Black backs up his king, takes one for one, and then wins in the usual way.

Suppose White has the move. He can only go into squares 1 or 32. Say he moves into 32; Black has only to go from 18 to 15, and what has his adversary left? Nothing but to submit to an exchange at the next move, after which the rest is easy, as already shown with two kings to one.

FOUR KINGS TO THREE.

As a rule the player with the superior force must win, but in some positions it is very difficult to force an exchange. Take this:—

White, with the move, has but one square, 28, into which he can move. Black, with the move, would of course win by going into the same square, and soon compel an exchange. Suppose White move—

White.			Black.
32	to	28	24	to	20
28	to	32	23	to	19
31	to	27	22	to	18
27	to	31

If he play 27 to 23 his adversary takes from 18 to 27, and leaves himself after the exchanges with two kings to one. White prolongs the struggle by moving from 27 to 31, to which Black replies by playing

			19	to	24
32	to	27	24	to	28
27	to	32	18	to	23
31	to	27	23	to	26
30	to	23	28	to	24
27	to	31	24	to	27
31	to	24	20	to	18	,

which leaves Black with two kings to one, when he wins in ten or twelve moves.

This last is an instructive position, as it shows how the greater force must conquer. Generally the same result happens in other and more vastly important contests. The game of Draughts, like the game of war, can only be successfully played by an intimate union of strategy and might.

THE MOVE.

If each player had equal skill, and each made the proper move, then the player who took the first move would win. This sentence sounds like a truism, but it is open to argument. Throughout every game it is important to know which of the two players ‘has the move’—that is, the power to fix his adversary man for man on every available square. The first moves of a game do not directly affect its final result, but when the men have become fewer and fewer, it is of the greatest consequence to know on which side lies the forcing power. To make this plain, place a white man on square 4, the top right-hand corner, and a black man on square 30, the second from the left in the lowermost row of squares. Black, having to play, moves from 30 to 26, and do what he may, White must be stopped at square 19. Try it. White, having to play first, cannot, on the contrary, prevent his opponent from making a king. This simply shows the theory of Having the Move.

To discover whether you Have the Move, several plans are at your service. The easiest is this: Count one for each man of both colours which stand on columns having a white square at the foot. If it is your turn, and the total of the addition be odd, you Have the Move; if it is your opponent’s turn to play, the move is with him.

Place the men as in the following [diagram], and you will soon find that either colour moving first has the move, and therefore ought to win.

The Move.—Either colour to play first and Have the Move.

Another Plan, by some considered more certain, is this:—

If you desire to know if any one of your men has the move of any man on the other side, examine the position of both. If there is a black square on the right angle under his man you Have the Move. For instance, you have a black man on 30, and white has a man on 3. The right angle is the black square between 31 and 32. With your man on square 29 or 31 the right angle would be found on the black squares on one or other side of the straight line below the white man, and he, therefore, would Have the Move. The value of this plan is that it holds good with any number of men.

A Third Plan.—Count the men and the squares. If the men are even and the squares are odd, or if the squares are even and the men odd, you Have the Move. With even men and even squares, and odd men and odd squares, the move is on the other side.

To apply this theory. When you have the move do not exchange, if you can avoid it, or you may lose the move. For example, place the men thus:

The Move.—White to play and win.

When all the men, both Black and White, on the lettered column (a, b, c, d,) are added up, the total is odd, and the side having to play Has the Move. If no men are on the lettered squares, then take the figured squares, 1, 2, 3, 4; but do not combine the two. Apply the theory to the above position. We find that there being 9, an odd number of men, on the lettered columns, White Has the Move, and having it, would win:

White.				Black.
28	to	24	—1—	8	to	12
30	to	26	—2—	2	to	6
24	to	19	—3—	6	to	10
21	to	17	—4—	9	to	13
26	to	22	—5—	1	to	6
32	to	28	—6—	6	to	9
28	to	24	—7—

What, now, can Black do but play, and lose a man and the game? He has but two squares, 15 and 11, open to him. His defeat is decisive and complete.

TO REGAIN THE MOVE.

Change man for man till only one capturing piece remains on the board. Suppose Black had men on squares 12 and 15, and White had men on 24 and 28. What should White do? Nothing more simple. He plays from 24 to 19. Black must take the offered piece and be taken, when his remaining man on 12 is fixed by the White on square 19.

A further example. Place the men thus:—

Regaining the Move.—White to play and win.

Here it would appear that Black must win. But White, playing first, forces a win.

White.								Black.
32	to	28		—	1	—	King	25	to	22
28	to	24		—	2	—		22	to	18
24	to	19		—	3	—		18	to	22
19	to	15		—	4	—		22	to	17
15	to	18		—	5	—		17	to	13
18	to	22		—	6	—		13	to	9
30	to	26		—	7	—		9	to	14
26	to	23		—	8	—		14	to	10
23	to	18		—	9	—		10	to	6
18	to	14		—	10	—		6	to	1
14	to	9		—	11	—		1	to	5
9	to	6		—	12	—		5	to	1
6	to	2	King	—	13	—		1	to	5
2	to	6		—	14	—		5	to	1
6	to	10		—	15	—		1	to	5
10	to	15		—	16	—		5	to	9
15	to	19		—	17	—		9	to	14
27	to	23		—	18	—		14	to	10
23	to	18		—	19	—		10	to	6
18	to	14		—	20	—		6	to	1
14	to	9		—	21	—		1	to	5
9	to	6		—	22	—		5	to	9
6	to	1	King	—	23	—		9	to	5
1	to	6		—	24	—		5	to	1
6	to	9		—	25	—		1	to	5
9	to	14		—	26	—		5	to	1
14	to	18		—	27	—		1	to	5
18	to	23		—	28	—		5	to	9
23	to	27		—	29	—		9	to	14
19	to	23		—	30	—		14	to	9
23	to	18		—	31	—		9	to	5
18	to	14		—	32	—		5	to	1
14	to	9		—	33	—		1	to	5
22	to	17		—	34	—		5	to	14
17	to	10		—	35	—		21	to	25
10	to	15		—	36	—		25	to	29	King
15	to	19		—	37	—		29	to	25
27	to	32		—	38	—		25	to	22
19	to	24		—	39	—		20	to	27
32	to	23		—	40	—		22	to	17
23	to	18		—	41	—		17	to	13
18	to	14	, and wins next move.

The beginner who follows the moves of this game with an understanding brain, will learn more about the scientific theory of Draughts than he could acquire by a year of miscellaneous play.

COMMENTS ON THE LAWS.

As stated on [page 182], the rules are few and simple. The explanations and remarks are in brackets.

1. The board is to be so placed as that the double corner is at the right hand of the player. [Some play on the white, and some on the black squares. For convenience of numbering the board and recording the moves, the white squares are now generally adopted.]

2. The choice of colour is determined by lot, and the men on either side are placed on the alternate squares in three lines immediately in front of the player. [The black or the white squares, as may be decided before starting.]

3. Black has the first move, and the men are changed with each game. [Thus giving in turn the first move to each player.]

4. The player who touches a man, except for the purpose of adjusting it, must move that man, if it can be legally moved.

5. A piece moved over the angle of a square must be moved to that square. [This is a newly-adopted law, to prevent the undecided mode of moving backward and forward adopted by some players.]

6. A man en prise must be taken if intimation be given by the player offering it. If by accident it is left untaken, the piece which should have taken it may be huffed. [It is at the option of the adversary to huff or let the offending piece remain.]

7. The player cannot stand the huff, when he is told to take a man, or men.

8. The huff is not a move; and after taking off the huffed piece, the player moves. [Thus ‘huff and move’ is a well-understood direction.]

9. A player taking one piece only when two or more can be legally taken, may be huffed on the completion of his move.

10. When a piece is en prise it must be taken within a minute. [This is to prevent the delay in which some indulge.]

11. Five minutes is the limit of time for considering a move. The penalty for exceeding the time allowed is loss of the game. [This law applies more particularly to match games.]

12. A piece abandoned is a completed move. [In all games this law should be observed, as nothing is so annoying to an opponent as to be asked to allow a move to be amended.]

13. A false or illegal move must be rectified, or the game resigned; such move may be allowed to remain, at the option of the adversary. [By a false move is meant the moving backward, or sideways, or on to the wrong-colour square.]

14. If a player in the act of taking remove one of his own men from the board, it cannot be replaced, except by consent of the opponent.

15. When three or more kings are opposed to a weaker force, the game must, when the opponent gives notice to count, be won within forty moves, or abandoned as drawn.

16. When two kings are opposed to one, the game is to be declared drawn, unless the player with the stronger force win in twenty moves. [From any part of the board two kings can win against one in fifteen or sixteen moves.]

17. Notice must be given of the intention to count the moves. [Twenty or forty, as the case may be; one for the combined move of both colours.]

18. When several pieces can be taken in one continuous move, no piece may be taken up off the board until the move is completed. The player failing to take all the men may be huffed. [As in [Rule 9].]

19. When a man arrives at a square in the last row on the opposite side of the board, he must be immediately crowned. But the king cannot move till the opposing player has made his move.

20. Kings can move backward or forward, one square at a time only; and, to take two or more pieces in one move, there must be a vacant square behind each individual piece.

21. Disputes are to be decided by an umpire, or a majority of the company.

22. Matches must consist, unless otherwise agreed, of an equal number of games. [The rules for regulating a match should be determined and stated in writing. An umpire should be appointed.]

23. During the progress of a game neither player is allowed to leave the room, except by permission of his opponent.

24. Pointing over the board, loud talk, or any other behaviour likely to annoy or confuse an adversary, if persisted in, forfeits the game.

25. No bystander is allowed to advise a player, or interfere with the progress of a game.

26. A breach of any of the above laws is punishable by the loss of the game, if in the opinion of the umpire such breach was intentional.

ADVICE TO YOUNG PLAYERS.

Play with better players than yourself. Observe the openings.

Look well over the board before making a move.

Never touch a man without moving it.

Leave off when your mind is fatigued, and never persist in playing when you stand but small chance of winning.

Waste no time in considering an inevitable move. Take the offered piece without hesitation or delay.

When you are a man ahead, exchange as often as you can, but at the same time beware of man-traps and spring-guns.

Abandon a line of play the secret of which is discovered by your adversary; and when a piece must be lost, make no attempt to retain it. Sometimes it is safer to give up a man than to defend a weak position.

Make your kings as quickly as you can. Avoid all cramped positions. Back up your men in phalanx fashion:—

and move rather towards the centre than to the sides of the board. Be careful not to move out your men too soon from the safety of the back row.

Play with your head as well as with your fingers. Avoid banter and loud talk. Boast not of your victories. Win modestly, and lose with good temper. Punctuality is the politeness of kings. Courtesy is the grand characteristic of good draught-players.

II. The Losing Game.

There is a good deal of amusement and no little skill in the Losing Game. As its name denotes, this game is the reverse of Draughts proper. The object is to lose all your men; and he who accomplishes that object wins.

The whole or main secret of the Losing Game is to play towards the sides of the board, and to so arrange your men as to be able to give up two, three, or more at a single coup. After a little practice you will discover that even with a dozen men on the board against, say, two or three, you may win—that is, you may compel your adversary to take them all. Or with a single king you may take man after man, and then, at last, commit graceful suicide. Or you may compel a king to take several men. Much depends on Having the Move. [Here], for instance, is a position in which a king is forced to take eight men and lose the game:—

Black to move and White to win, or White to move and Black to win.

Black has only two squares into which he can go, and then he must allow White to give away his men one after the other. If White moves first, Black gains the opposition by losing his king, and wins the game.

In the next [diagram], again, is a position in which White can compel a single Black man to take all his eleven pieces one after the other.

White to play and win.

White, moving upward, first gives his king, and then the man on 24, after which he offers the man on 31, which White must take and become a king. The remaining moves are simple, but White has to play carefully, or he may enable the Black king to sacrifice himself and win.

The Losing Game offers numerous opportunities for calculation and combination; but what we have shown is sufficient to enable young players to understand the theory. Excellence will come with practice and perseverance.

III. Polish Draughts.

The Polish game is played on a board of a hundred squares, ten each way; but for all ordinary purposes the regular English board of sixty-four squares will do as well. The board is set in the usual way, with a double corner at the right hand of the players, no matter which colour be chosen.

Two great and essential differences exist between English and Polish Draughts. In the foreign game the men take backward and forward, one square at a time, as many pieces as are en prise, and the kings leap over any number of squares, wherever and whenever there is a piece to take. As, in our own game, a piece touched must be moved, and all the other rules of the English game are to be observed. On the Continent, where the game is much more common than with us, the crowned man is called a queen, just as the game itself is Damen, a game for ladies. With them, as with us, the White squares are usually chosen.

It is by exchanges that good players at Polish Draughts parry moves and prepare combinations. It is well to give man for man, or two for two. By that means the game is strengthened, and thus it often happens that a single man can confine several of his opponent’s pieces.

The lunette—the placing a man on a square between two men of the other side—is much more frequent in the Polish than in the English game. Look well to the position before you enter the lunette; and having entered it, before you decide on your move. It is often a snare, which the good player will try to avoid.

Concentrate your men towards the end of the game, for then the slightest error may be fatal.

Two, three, or more pieces may sometimes be advantageously sacrificed to obtain a king, which, in this game, is very powerful. Make your kings as soon as you can, and play them with judgment. With a king and a man against two or three kings, hesitate not to sacrifice your man, for the game may be almost as well defended by the king alone. Between equal players, the game often results in a draw; but there is no saying how numerous are the combinations which may lead to victory or its reverse.

It is not necessary to give the moves of a game, as, except for its two grand distinctions, Polish Draughts is similar to the English game.

Here, then, we have pretty well all that can be taught on paper respecting this branch of the game. The next step is How to Open a game with advantage. This I shall proceed briefly to show; and after that the excellence is to be acquired by practice alone. Draughts, in all its varieties, is an admirable game, inculcating patience, caution, tact, and scientific calculation. Those who would excel in its practice must be content to go slowly. There is no royal road to Draughts. Perseverance and failure are the parents of success.

THE OPENINGS.

Usually it is necessary to begin at the beginning; but in Draughts and Chess, as in other games of skill, players commence playing, and even attain some degree of aptness, before they actually conquer the alphabet, the science, of the several amusements. There is no great harm in this plan, however. Do we not all learn to talk before we know anything of grammar or orthography; to sing before we understand even the notation of music; to argue and discuss before we get even the haziest notion of logic? Of course we do. And then we naturally endeavour to go back to first principles, and so correct our mistakes by aid of rule and system.

I told you some pages back that there were various accepted openings to the game of Draughts—the Old Fourteenth, the Single Corner, the Laird and Lady, the Glasgow, the Whilter, and some fifty others. All the really safe, sound, and favourable openings, however, proceed from the five here named. The rest are well enough to know, but in practice they are risky and fantastical.

To properly understand what follows, it is necessary that you should so completely conquer the notation of draughts as to be able to follow the moves in your mind’s eye without seeing the board. This is not nearly so difficult as you may think. Number your board as in the diagram below, and place the men in the order of play.

The Numbered Board, with the men placed in their order of play.

Here we have the Black men on the upper half of the board, though whether the White or the Black occupy that position the order of their moves is the same. The usual plan is for the Black to take the first move, and for the players to change the pieces with each game. By this method each player begins alternately, and always with the Black men. Our games will be so arranged, if you please.

Let us commence, then, with the best of the openings—

THE OLD FOURTEENTH.

Black.						White.
11	to	15	—	1	—	23	to	19
8	to	11	—	2	—	22	to	17
4	to	8	—	3	—	17	to	13

These three moves on either side constitute the Old Fourteenth Opening. From this point, at which the game is perfectly even, spring many variations. The most common and accepted moves on each side are—

15	to	18	—	4	—	24	to	20
11	to	15	—	5	—	28	to	24
8	to	11	—	6	—	26	to	23

The following is now the position. Both sides are well placed, and the game, if played thoroughly, should end in a draw, with White for preference.

Black has now the choice of two moves. We will suppose that he defends his position by moving from 9 to 14.

The first double column gives the moves from the position in the diagram; six moves on each side having been made. The other columns show six variations. The star indicates the losing move in each case.

12				26	*	22	25		22
13	9	-	14	9	-	14	18	-	25
14	31		26	31	-	26	29		22
15	6	-	9	5	-	9	9	-	14
16	13		6	26		23	27		23
17	2	-	9	1	-	5	6	-	9
18	26		22	22		17	13		6
19	1	-	6	11		16	2	-	9
20	32		28	20		11	22		17
21	3	-	8	7	-	16	15		18	..			..			9	*	13
22	30		26	25		22	17		13	32		28				26		22
23	9	-	13	18	-	25	18	-	27	18	-	27				3	-	8	..
24	19		16	29		22	13		6	19		16				23		18
25	12	-	19	3	-	7	14	-	18	12	-	19				14	-	23
26	23		16	22		18	32		14	24		8				31	-	27
27	13	-	17	15	-	22	10	-	17	3	-	12				15	-	18	5	*	9
28	22		13	19		15	21		14	31		24				22		6	27		18
29	8	-	12	10	-	28	1	-	17	9	-	13				13	-	22	1	-	5
30	24		19	17		3	26		22	26		22				27		18	30		26
31	15	-	31	22	-	26	17	-	26	7	-	11				1	-	10	9	-	14
32	26		22	3		8	30	*	23	30	*	26				18		14	18		9
33	12	-	19	16	-	20	5	-	9	1	-	6				10	-	17	5	-	14
34	22		8				23		18	26		23	24	*	19	21		14	26		23
35	14	-	17	white wins.			7	-	10	11	-	15	11	-	15				15	-	18
36	21		14				31		26	24		19	28		24	white wins.			22		6
37	10		17				9	-	13	15	-	24	15	-	18				13	-	22
38	8		3				26		23	28		19	22		15				6		2
39	7	-	10				13	-	17	6	-	9	13	-	31				7	-	10
40	25		21				18		14	20		16	15		11				32		28
41	17	-	22				17	-	21	10	-	15	14	-	18				22	-	25
42	20		16				14		7	17		10	11		7				23		18
43	10	-	14				3	-	10	15	-	24	31	-	26				14	-	23
44	16		11							23		19	21		17				19		16
45	31	-	26				black wins.			24	-	27	26	-	22
46	11		8							10		6	17		13				white wins.
										27	-	31	18	-	23
										6		2	7		3
	draw.									black			black
										wins.			wins.

If you play out these games carefully you will see that there is a reason for each move, and thus demonstrate that Draughts is a scientific game possessing no element of luck or chance.

THE LAIRD AND LADY.

The opening known as the Laird and Lady is a favourite with players north of the Tweed. Rare fine players at Draughts are the Scotsmen. They carried the game across the Atlantic, where it is popularly known as Checquers, or, as the New Englanders spell it, Checkers.

The first two moves on each side in the Laird and Lady are the same as those in the Old Fourteenth.

Black.						White.
11	to	15	—	1	—	23	to	19
8	to	11	—	2	—	22	to	17

Then comes the variation which distinguishes it,

9

to

13

—

3

—

17

to

14

This Black follows on with a move which compels an exchange.

10	to	17	—	4	—	21	to	14
15	to	18	—	5	—	26	to	23

White’s last move supports the advanced man on square 14. Then Black proceeds with what at first sight seems a weak move:—

13

to

17

—

6

—

19

to

15

From this point the game is even, though the advantage would certainly seem to be on the side of the White. The following is the position at the point arrived at:—

From this position there are almost endless variations. Drummond, a well-known writer and specialist, gives no fewer than thirty; and, generally, they end in favour of White, the second player—proving that this opening is hardly so good as the Old Fourteenth or the Single Corner, which may be considered the standard games of first-rate players.

We give the moves of a completed game in this opening, showing the moves from which the variations spring.

Black.						White.
11	to	15	—	1	—	23	to	19
8	to	11	—	2	—	22	to	17
9	to	13	—	3	—	17	to	14
10	to	17	—	4	—	21	to	14
6	to	10	—	5	—	25	to	21
10	to	17	—	6	—	21	to	14
15	to	18	—	7	—	29	to	25
11	to	16	—	8	—	19	to	15
(or 1 to 6
19	to	25
4	to	8
26	to	22, &c.)
16	to	20	—	9	—	26	to	23
(or 26 to 22)
1	to	6	—	10	—	31	to	26
13	to	17	—	11	—	15	to	10
6	to	15	—	12	—	23	to	19
4	to	8	—	13	—	19	to	10
8	to	11	—	14	—	24	to	19
11	to	16	—	15	—	26	to	22
(or 11 to 15)
17	to	26	—	16	—	30	to	23
5	to	9	—	17	—	14	to	5
7	to	14	—	18	—	5	to	1

And White wins. Now try the variations indicated. Had Black at his fifteenth move gone from 11 to 15, the best he could have done would be to draw. See:—

11	to	15	—	15	—
12	to	19	—	16	—	19	to	16
20	to	27	—	17	—	27	to	24
7	to	11	—	18	—	32	to	16
2	to	11	—	19	—	16	to	7
18	to	25	—	20	—	25	to	22
15	to	18	—	21	—	30	to	21
11	to	16	—	22	—	10	to	6

And the game is drawn.

It may be useful, in this place, to give a

Table of the Principal Openings.
Title.	1st Move.			2nd Move.			3rd Move.			4th Move.			5th Move.
Double Corner	9	-	14
Single Corner	11	-	15	22	-	18
Ayrshire Lassie	11	-	15	24	-	20
Second Double Corner	11	-	15	24	-	19
Cross	11	-	15	23	-	18
Whilter	11	-	15	23	-	19	7	-	11
Will o’ the Wisp	11	-	15	23	-	19	9	-	13
Dyke	11	-	15	22	-	17	15	-	19
Maid o’ the Mill	11	-	15	22	-	17	15	-	18
Defiance	11	-	15	23	-	19	9	-	14	27	-	23
Glasgow	11	-	15	23	-	19	8	-	11	22	-	17	11	-	16
Laird and Lady	11	-	15	23	-	19	8	-	11	22	-	17	9	-	13
Fife	11	-	15	23	-	19	9	-	14	22	-	17	5	-	9
Old Fourteenth	11	-	15	23	-	19	8	-	11	22	-	17	4	-	8

Of these, some already named—Old Fourteenth, Laird and Lady, &c.—are the best for practice. We therefore present another set of games in the

OLD FOURTEENTH.

As before, the key-game appears in the first double-column; and the variations spring from the point indicated. The moves are given consecutively; the first player going from 11 to 15; his opponent from 23 to 19, and so on to the end.

	GAME			2			3			4			5			6			7
1	11	-	15
2	23		19
3	8	-	11
4	22	-	17
5	4	-	8
6	17		13	25		22
7	15	-	18	15	-	18
8	24	-	20	22		15
9	11	-	15	11	-	18
10	28		24	17		13
11	8	-	11	7	-	11							9	-	14
12	26		23	24		20							29		25
13	9	-	14	10	*	14	3	*	7				10	-	25
14	31		26	29		25	29		25				19		10
15	6	-	9	2	-	7	11	-	15				6	-	15
16	13		6	26		23	26		23				26		23
17	2	-	9	7	-	10	15	-	24				8	-	11
18	26		22	21		17	20		19				30		26
19	1	-	6	14	-	21	9	-	14	10	*	14	11	*	16
20	32		28	23		7	32		28	30		26	24		20
21	3	-	8	3	-	10	6	-	9	7	-	11	1	-	6	7	*	11
22	30		26	25		22	13		6	19		15	20		11	28		24
23	9	-	13	9	-	14	2	-	9	2	-	7	7	-	16	3	-	7	2	*	6
24	19		16	22		17	30		26	26		22	26		22	24		19	24		19
25	12	-	19	11	-	15	1	-	6	12	-	16	2	-	7	15	-	24	15	-	24
26	23		16	27		23	26		22	22		17	22		17	26		22	26		22
27	13	-	17	15	-	24	7	-	11	7	-	10	7	-	10	11	-	15	11	-	15
28	22		13	28		19	22		15	32		28	23		19	20		11	20		11
29	8	-	12	8	-	11	11	-	18	10	-	26	16	-	23	7	-	16	24	-	28
30	24		19	31		26	31		26	31		15	25		22	27		11	11		8
31	15	-	31	11	-	15	9	-	13	11	-	18	18	-	25	8	-	27	12	-	16
32	26		22	32		28	26		22	17		10	27		2	32		23	22		17
33	12	-	19																3	-	12
34	22		8	white wins.			white wins.			white wins.			white wins.			white wins.			17		10
35	14	-	17
36	21		14																white wins.
37	10	-	17
38	8		3
39	7	-	10
40	25		21
41	17	-	22
42	20		16
43	10	-	14
44	16		11
45	31	-	26
46	11	-	18
	draw.

As in the previous examples, the asterisk shows the losing move. Young players should get this opening by heart. In the first game, you see, all that White can do is to draw; in the others he wins.

THE SINGLE CORNER GAME.

This a good and sound opening. Properly conducted, it gives the win to the first player. As in the Old Fourteenth and the Laird and Lady, the first move is from square 11 to square 15. The variation occurs in the second move, which is 22 to 18 instead of 22 to 19. Thus—

11	to	15	—	1	—	22	to	18
15	to	22	—	2	—	25	to	18
8	to	11	—	3	—	29	to	25
10	to	15	—	4	—	25	to	22
4	to	8	—	5	—	24	to	20
12	to	16	—	6	—	21	to	17

The position of the men is now as follows, without any great advantage on either side, with Black to move:—

It will be well for the students to play out the game from this position.

Now let us take some variations most usual in this opening. The first game is played from the initial move, and the variations from the places marked. It will be easy for any two players with the Numbered Board before them to follow the moves.

	GAME			2			3			4			5			6			7
1	11	-	15
2	22		18
3	15	-	22
4	25		18
5	8	-	11
6	29		25										10	-	14	9	-	13	9	-	14
7	4	-	8							24		19	24		19	24		20	18		9
8	25		22							16	-	20	11	-	16	1?	-	16	5	-	14
9	12	-	16	11	-	16				28	*	24	27		24	27		24	24		19
10	24		20	24		20				7	-	11	16	-	20	8	-	12	11	-	15
11	8	-	12	8	-	11				30		25	31		27	24		19	19		16
12	27		24	27		24				11	-	16	7	-	10	10	-	15	12	-	19
13	10	-	14	9	-	13				18		15	19		15	19		10	23		16
14	24		19	24		19				9	-	14	10	-	19	6	-	15	14	-	18
15	7	-	10	5	-	9				22		18	24		15	31		27	21		17
16	32		27	28		24				3	-	7	6	-	10	7	-	10	18	-	25
17	9	-	13	10	-	15				18		9	15		6	27		24	30		21
18	18		9	19		10				5	-	14	1	-	10	2	-	7	6	-	9
19	5	-	14	6	-	15				26		22	23		19	24		19	16		12
20	22		18	32		28				14	-	18	14	-	23	15	-	24	9	-	14
21	1	-	5	16	-	19				23		14	27		18	28		19	27		23
22	18		9	23		16				16	-	23	8	-	11	10	*	14	8	-	12
23	5	-	14	12	-	19				27		18	22		17	18		9	32		27
24	26		22	26		23				20	-	27	9	-	14	5	-	14	15	-	18
25	13	-	17	19	-	26				32		23	18		9	22		18	17		13
26	22		13	30		23				10	-	26	5	-	14	1	-	5	1	-	6
27	14	-	18	1	-	5							17		13	18		9	28		24
28	23		7	24		19				black wins.			2	-	6	5	-	14	11	-	15
29	16	-	32	15	-	24							26		22	19		15	23		19
30	30		26	28		19							20	-	24	11	-	27	7	-	11
31	3	-	10	7	-	10							30	*	26	20		2	26		23
32	21		17	31		27							12	-	16	27	-	31	18	-	22
33	11	-	15	2	-	7	19	*	16				19		12	26		22	21		17
34	26		23	19		16	10	-	14				11	-	16	12	-	16	14	-	21
35	2	-	7	10	-	15	16		7				28		19	2		6	23		18
36	31		27	16		12	3	-	10				16	-	30	16	-	19	11	-	16
37				7		10	20		16				32		27	6		9
38	Draw			20	*	16	2	-	7				30	-	26	14	-	17	black wins.
39				11	-	20	16	*	12				22		17	21		14
40				18		11	14	-	17				26	-	22	19	-	23
41				10	-	14	21		14				27		23	22		18
42				22		18	10	-	26				22	-	18	31	-	26
43				13	-	17	31		22				23		19	18		15
44				18		15	7	-	10				18	-	15	26	-	22
45				17	-	22	12		8				19		16	14		10
46				15		10	10	-	14				3	-	7	22		18
				22	-	26							12		8
				10		6	black wins.						15	-	11	white wins.
				26	-	31
				6		1							black wins.
				black wins.

The asterisk, in each case, shows the losing move. These games, however, by no means exhaust the variations in the Single Corner Game.

THE GLASGOW OPENING.

This mode of opening the game was, and is, a favourite one with Scottish players. It is a strong and sound game for the Black, beginning, like the Old Fourteenth, the Single Corner, and the Laird and Lady, with the move from square 11 to square 15. Presuming that Black always commences, the first moves are:—

Black.						White.
11	to	15	—	1	—	23	to	19
8	to	11	—	2	—	22	to	19
11	to	16	—	3	—

This third move of the Black is the variation which gives the Glasgow its special character. The move 4 to 8 instead of 11 to 16 would have been the Old Fourteenth. White’s safest reply is—

						24	to	20
16	to	23	—	4	—	27	to	17

Had White replied with 26 to 19, he would have lost by his opponent playing 10 to 14. As it is, Black’s next move is forced:—

7	to	16	—	5	—	20	to	11
3	to	7	—	6	—	25	to	22

From this point the game is even, though certainly Black has the best position for attack and defence. The situation is shown in the diagram:—

Black takes the man on square 11, which gives him a leading place on the board.

Instead of playing 25 to 22, many think that 28 to 24 is a better move. This, however, is open to question. Let us proceed with the game from the above point.

7	to	16	—	7	—	28	to	24
16	to	20	—	8	—	32	to	27

The last move of White gives him a certain advantage, but he must be careful not to move the man from square 24 to square 19, or Black by giving the man on 10 will win two for one. Black proceeds:—

12

to

16

—

9

—

30

to

25

If White had moved 27 to 23, he would have lost a man, for Black would have taken the piece on 24, and obliged his opponent to go from 31 to 24; and then, by moving into square 20, compelled White to go from 24 to 19, and have gained the exchange by giving the man on 10. Therefore 30 to 25 is the best.

4	to	8	—	10	—	26	to	23
2	to	7	—	11	—	17	to	13	24 to 19 W. wins
10	to	14	—	12	—	22	to	18
7	to	11	—	13	—	24	to	19
8	to	12	—	14	—	19	to	15	25 to 22 W. wins

Black has now the choice of two moves. Apparently he must lose a man, but by moving 16 to 19 he forces an exchange, which leaves him either even or a man ahead, according to White’s play. He moves from 16 to 19, and White may either take the man on 11 or the two men on 19 and 11.

16	to	19	—	15	—	23	to	7
14	to	32	—	16	—	7	to	3
20	to	24	—	17	—	15	to	11
32	to	27	—	18	—	31	to	26
24	to	28	—	19	—	11	to	7
28	to	32	—	20	—	7	to	2
12	to	16	—	21	—	3	to	8
16	to	20	—	22	—	8	to	12
27	to	24	—	23	—	12	to	16
24	to	28	—	24	—	16	to	19
32	to	27	—	25	—	26	to	22	(forced, or Black gets the breeches and wins a man)
27	to	24	—	26	—	19	to	23
28	to	32	—	27	—	23	to	26
24	to	27	—	28	—	26	to	23
27	to	18	—	29	—	25	to	15

And the game assumes the following position:—

Which is to win? It is Black’s move.

THE WHILTER OPENING.

This, like many others, is a modification of that best of all openings, the Old Fourteenth; the moves are—

11	to	15	—	1	—	23	to	19
7	to	11	—	2	—	22	to	17

This is the opening. It may proceed in many ways. The better, perhaps the best, plan is thus:—

9	to	14	—	3	—	25	to	22
11	to	16	—	4	—	26	to	23
5	to	9	—	5	—	17	to	13

Had Black moved 16 to 20, he would have lost a piece by his opponent playing 29 to 25—

3

to

7

—

6

—

29

to

25

which leaves the position thus:—

Black now usually plays from 1 to 5, and has a good sound strong game.

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CHAPTER XIV.—SOLITAIRE.
By the late Captain Crawley.

As a game for one player there is no superior to Solitaire. Apparently easy and simple, it is really intricate and scientific. Governed by a well-defined principle, chance forms no element of its practice. Like Chess and Draughts, it is entirely a mental and demonstrable game, full of variety, and affording ample scope, in its almost endless combinations, for the display of thought and ingenuity.

Solitaire is played on a board of thirty-three holes, in each of which a marble or glass ball is placed. Solitaire boards are made, but the game may be just as efficiently played on a properly marked piece of card-board, with draughtsmen or counters instead of marbles. This plan, indeed, is preferable to and cheaper than any other.

The method of play is as follows:—One marble is removed from its place, and then another is passed into the vacant hole. Take up the marble over which you jump, and continue to take piece after piece, always going in straight lines and never in diagonals, till you bring back the last marble from the hole whence the first was taken. One marble only can be taken at one jump; but, as in Draughts, you may proceed to play, and take, with the same marble, so long as there is a piece en prise with a vacant hole in the line behind it. The repetition of the figures will show the continued move of the piece.

The Centre-hole Game.

There are other modes of playing Solitaire—as by indicating a special hole, distinct from the starting-place, in which to lodge the last marble, leaving two, three, or four marbles in a particular position, ending in the hole next the original one, and so on; but the above, the more usual plan, should be first learned. We will now give a [diagram], and show you how to start from and return to the centre hole. Remove the centre marble. Jump from 1 in the upper limb to 1, the middle hole, taking 16-18. Go from 2 on the right limb of the diagram to 2 above the centre, taking 3-5. Proceed from hole to hole as indicated by the figures, and you will find that the last move will land the marble in the centre. Practise this till you can play the Centre-hole Game without the use of the diagram. It looks easy enough; but just try it before you condemn Solitaire as mere child’s play.

GAME II.

Presuming you have familiarised yourselves with the principle of the game, I present another diagram:—

The Right-hand End Game.

Remove the marble from the upper right-hand corner hole and proceed as before, going from place to place, as shown by the figures on the diagram. Get this by heart, and play the game without the problem.

GAME III.

In this, one of the best positions, remove the left-hand upper marble, and play the game according to the plan in the diagram below. You will find this an easy game to remember.

The Left-hand End Game.

This may be altered by ending in any other hole. You should, however, thoroughly conquer the game as presented before you attempt any variation. It is not sufficient to play with the diagram before you. The problem is presented as a game to be learned, and once thoroughly learned, it is difficult to forget it.

GAME IV.

The following is a pretty but somewhat difficult position. It will be sufficient to give the diagram without remark other than this: Conquer it before you leave off, and do not be disheartened if you fail to succeed the first time you attempt it without the diagram.

The Upper Line Game.

GAME V.

You will understand that these positions given may be varied by starting from a similar place in either leg of the board. It is sufficient to mention this. To give players many variations would occupy too much space.

The Upper Centre-hole Game.

GAME VI.

Here we have one of the most difficult and yet most interesting of positions. Proceed as before, taking care to learn the game so as to play without the numbered diagram. Remove the black marble.

The Left-hand Upper Line Game.

Solitaire may also be played by two persons, the object of one of them being to defeat the other by contrary or opposite moves. Double Solitaire is, however, somewhat deficient in the one great element of all antagonistic games—variety.

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CHAPTER XV.—FOX AND GEESE.
By the late Captain Crawley.

I am not sure that this game was not played by the boys of ancient Greece and Rome; or perhaps even by boys in a yet earlier age of the world. At any rate, it is a very, very old game, of whose origin nothing whatever is known. Under these circumstances, it would be easy to gossip on for a page or two, and talk about anything likely to seem interesting; but it is pleasanter, and much more practical, to tell you how, with the assistance of our Solitaire-board, and some draughtsmen or counters of wood, bone, or metal, you may play it yourselves.

For Fox and Geese you need seventeen counters of one colour, to represent the Geese, and one counter of a different colour for the Fox. You prepare the board thus: place the Fox in the middle and the Geese in front, as in the [diagram] below.

THE BOARD WITH THE PIECES SET FOR THE GAME.

Like Chess and Draughts, it is purely a game of strategy for two players. The usual plan is for each player to take the initiative in turn, the Fox in one game and the Geese in another. Unlike card games, it contains no element of chance or ‘luck.’

The whole motive of the game is for the Fox to catch the Geese, or for the Geese to drive the Fox into a corner from which he cannot escape. Properly played, the Geese, with the first move, must always win; but in this game, as in real life, the more cunning creature is not seldom successful.

The plan of the game is this. The Geese march forward only in straight lines, down or across; the Fox can move forward, backward, or sideways on the straight lines, not the diagonals. The Fox takes any Goose that may be en prise with a vacant space behind, as in Draughts; and so long as he can take, he continues his move. When he succeeds in following up and catching all the Geese, one after another, he wins. But the Geese, if they only go boldly to work, can drive him away. They must go forward as a phalanx with determination, filling each vacant spot, and leaving no loophole into which the enemy can jump or creep. All depends on united and determined action. United they conquer; separated they fall. When their number is reduced to six, it is impossible for them to confine the Fox. But there is no reason why it should be so reduced. Look at the [diagram]. If we call the upper left-hand spot 1, and number the board horizontally to 33, at the lower right-hand corner, we shall soon see how the attack may be conducted. The Fox is in the centre; the Goose on either of the central junction lines can move without fear of capture, and the Fox must retreat. Having, say, moved 11 to 18, the Goose on 6 moves on to 11. The Fox is still without power to harm. The Geese proceed to go forward, and in this way ultimately force their enemy into a corner, or they may beguile him by offering a bait. Say the Goose on 15 moves to 16, the Fox must take him and lose his central position of attack. The Geese follow up their advantage; and, unless they commit some grievous error, they pin Master Reynard in a corner, whence he can by no means get out. The whole principle of the game is Advance. Go forward with the stronger force; fill up all vacancies. Directly a Goose moves on, back him up. Surround your enemy and compel him to retreat. As to the Fox, his tactics must be bold, yet cautious; determined, yet crafty; daring, yet subtle; adventurous, yet shrewd! Very like real life, is it not?

The game can be varied by placing the Fox on another spot; or by insisting on his catching all the Geese; by the latter taking the horizontal limits of the board only, or by offering odds, and so on; but the plan here given will be found ample in providing rational amusement for winter evenings. Less scientific, certainly, than Chess or Draughts, it affords abundant opportunities for thought and mental calculation.

Singular transformation in a Boy who never used his Brains!

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CHAPTER XVI.—GO-BAN.
By Herr Meyer.

This game is of Japanese origin, and the name means Go = five, and Ban = board. It has, however, become gradually corrupted into ‘Go-bang,’ and thus it is now generally written.

In Japan it is played on a board of more than three hundred squares, but in Europe on boards of sixty-four squares (as in chess and draughts), or on larger boards. The Japanese have schools for the study and practice of the game, and divide the players into nine classes. A late account says that at present there is no player of the highest (the ninth) class living; but one of the eighth class, named Murase (in German spelling pronounced Moo-răh-sey), is editing a periodical, in which he publishes the theory of the openings, actual games, problems, poems, &c.

This game of Go (or game of five) is in China called Ki (= Kee), and was invented there about 2,000 years B.C. It is therefore older than chess. It was introduced into Japan about 1,100 years ago, and was there brought to higher perfection.

It is played by two persons. In Japan they use more than a hundred men on each side. If played on the chess-board, then generally one plays with twelve white men, the other with twelve black men. The aim of each player is to get five men in a line—i.e., five of his men close together in a straight line, either in row, a file, or a diagonal. In Japan each player tries to form a chain with his men around the others, etc.

The play is carried on thus:—The players decide as to first move; afterwards they begin alternately. The first player, say White, places a man on any of the sixty-four squares, then Black places a man on any of the remaining sixty-three squares: thereupon White puts down his second man on any unoccupied square, and so on until all the twenty-four men are placed. Now the moving begins. The first player moves one of his men to any of the next unoccupied squares, but must not leap over a man, and the second player proceeds in the same manner. So the play continues until one or the other succeeds in getting five men in a line.

Thus the play consists in placing and moving. If a player be not sufficiently attentive he can lose in the first part of the game. The moving may extend from two or three to any number, according to capacity of the players.

The game requires a great deal of watching, for the ‘Go,’ or ‘Five,’ can be made in any of four directions—horizontally, vertically, or on the right and left diagonals. There are eight lines for each of the two straight ways, and seven lines for each of the two diagonal ways; in all thirty lines. Four positions of the ‘five’ are possible in a row or a file, and as many in each of the longest diagonals, whilst the shortest diagonal permits of only one position, so that the number of all positions is 4 × 8 + 4 × 8 + 2 (4 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 1) = 96.

Many players prefer this game to draughts. It may also be played by four persons, taking partners as in ‘whist,’ when each player receives six men. Odds can be given in this game, a superior player having eleven against twelve men.

Whenever a player has three men in an open line the opponent must stop him, for should he get four, then the adversary could block him on only one end. This blocking, however, is not necessary if the second player can first make ‘five.’

The student will learn the method of playing from the games we shall give with explanations. The system of description is the International Chess Notation, as will be shown on the frame of the diagram to follow. The letters in brackets after the moves will refer to the explanatory notes.

The following two games were played between G. W. S. and H. F. L. M.:—

White.			Black.
1.	d4.		d5.
2.	e4.		e5.	([i]).
3.	f4.		c4.	([j]).
4.	f5.		e6.
5.	f7.	([k]).	f6.
6.	g6.		d3.
7.	g4.		h4.
8.	g4.		g3.
9.	e3.		d2.
10.	c5.		f2.	([l]).
11.	e2.		f3.	([m]).
12.	b3.		g7.	([n]).

The men are now placed as shown in this [diagram]:—

Now the moving begins:—

	White.	Black.
13.	b3 c3.	f2 e1 ([o]).
14.	e2 f2.	d5 c6.
15.	f2 e2 ([p]).	e1 d1.
16.	c5 d5.	d1 c2.
17.	d5 c5.	c2 b3.
18.	f7 e7.	e5 d5.
19.	e7 f7.	d2 c2 ([q]).
20.	e2 d2.	g7 h6.
21.	c3 b2.	c2 c1 ([r]).
22.	g6 g7.	f6 g6.
23.	g5 f6.	e6 e7.
24.	g7 f8 = five.

Notes.

(i) Experience has shown that it is best to occupy the central squares, for the men then have the greatest freedom of action.

(j) This move is necessary, for if Black had placed the man on c5, White would have won by placing his next man on c4 or g4.

(k) He must block the line at a2 g8, just as well as Black must now block the f file.

(l) The last six moves were all forced for Black.

(m) A weak move, which places the black men awkwardly. He would have done better to place it on b3 in order to force the last white man to go to a2, and then Black could have placed his last on c3, and try to make a ‘five’ in the a5 e1 or the a6 f1 or the c file.

(n) Necessary, for if placed on b6 or a5, White would have won thus:—g6 g7, f6 g6, g5 f6, followed by g7 f8.

(o) Endeavouring to bring this man to the other side of the board.

(p) He is afraid of e1 e2.

(q) A bad move, for although he can block at h6, he can afterwards not stop the g or f file. Black should have tried to move from c6 to a2.

(r) Must. White now wins easily, even if e6 stood on e7, for g6 g7, e7 f8, f7 g8, f6 g6, f4 e5, g6 f6 (else f5 f6), f5 g6.

Game No. 2.

Between H. F. L. M. (White) and G. W. S. (Black).

White.		Black.
1.	e4.	d5.
2.	d3.	c4.
3.	f5.	c2.
4.	g6.	h7 ([i]).
5.	e5.	e6.
6.	b3.	e3.
7.	d4.	c3.
8.	c5.	f4.
9.	d6.	d2.
10.	g5.	e7.
11.	g7.	e2.

The position is now so interesting that we give it on a [diagram].

It appears at first sight that White might now place his last man on h8 and win. Black would then be obliged to place his last man on f6. White would continue f5 g4, and Black must answer h7 g8, and White would now win with e5 f5, followed by h8 h7, if Black could not play e7 f7 and come first in making ‘five’ in the diagonal a2 g8. To prevent these ‘five’ of Black, White would have to play g7 f7 (instead of e5 f5), and then Black would win easily by c3 b2, followed by e3 f2. White therefore must place his last man so that he can at once stop the approaching line of ‘five’ in the second row. He might place it on f2, but does better to put it on g3, and thus compel the last black man to go to g4. Therefore the game went on thus:

	White.	Black.
12.	g3.	g4.

All the men are now well placed, and the moving can begin.

13.	g7 f7.	e3 f2.
14.	b3 b2.	f4 f3.
15.	g3 g2.	f2 g3.
16.	g5 f4.	g3 h4.
17.	g6 h5 ([j]).	g4 g5.
18.	g2 g3 ([k]).	d5 c6.
19.	h5 g4 ([l]).	f3 g2.
20.	g4 f3.	e6 f6.
21.	f7 e8.	e7 e6 ([m]).
22.	e8 d7 ([n]).	e6 d5.
23.	d7 c7 = five.

Notes.

(i) These two moves of Black were compulsory.

(j) Must, because he cannot stop the line at d1.

(k) White now threatens to win by c5 c6 and on to c7.

(l) A good move to go on to h2.

(m) He ought to have played c6 d7, then the game might have proceeded thus: e8 d8, d7 c7; e4 d5, e7 d7; d6 c6, c4 b5; d3 c4, h4 g4; c5 b4, any; e5 e4 = five.

(n) There are now two lines for White, and only one can be stopped.

The third game between these two players had twenty-four moves, lasted about half an hour, and was won by the second player (M.). The fourth game lasted two hours, had seventy-five moves, and was won by the second player (S.).

Game No. 3.

Played between H. M. (White), and L. S. (Black).

White to play, and win in five moves.

The white men are on the squares b4, c2, c4, c5, c6, c7, d4, e3, e4, e5, f2, and g4.

	White.	Black.
1.	g4—f3	g3—g2 ([a])
2.	f3—e2	d2—e1
3.	e3—d2	a5—a4 ([b])
4.	b4—b3	(any move).
5.	b3—b2 = five.

Notes.

(a) He must prevent the man going from f3 over g2 to g1.—If he were to play g3—g4, White would answer e4—f5, and win in two more moves by making a ‘five’ in the diagonal a7 g1.

(b) Any other move would not prevent White from making ‘five’ in the second row, for Black must not move the man c3, as White would obtain ‘five’ (or even six) in the c file.

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CHAPTER XVII.—THE MALAGASY GAME OF FANÒRONA.
By W. Montgomery.

Nobody can very long reside in Madagascar, or in the central parts of it at any rate, without occasionally observing little companies of the natives bending eagerly over some mathematical-looking diagram rudely scratched on a roadside stone, or on the top of a rock, or, more roughly still, on the sun-baked clay of the wayside. If you look a little at the figure of the diagram, and consider the multiplicity of squares, diagonals, and adjacent parallelograms involved in it, you may think the people are discussing some Malagasy rider to one or other of the propositions in the Second Book of Euclid. Take the trouble to ask, however, and you will find that they are simply playing at their national game, the Fanòrona.

Diagram 1.

The fanòrona board is a rectangular parallelogram, divided into thirty-two equal spaces. Gather these, in your eye, into eight larger squares, containing four each; draw the diagonal lines in each of the eight, and the fanòrona figure is complete. Forty-four movable pieces are required for the game—twenty-two on each side.

With the Malagasy these are usually little pebbles and potsherds, or beans and berries. We, however, will call them the Black and the White pieces. The two players sit opposite each other, having the long sides of the fanòrona adjacent to them. The pieces are then arranged on the corners or angle-points; not on the squares, as in chess or draughts. There are five of these long lines on the board, each containing, of course, nine angle-points, and the pieces are thus arranged:

Black:	First	Line	1	.. ..	9
	Second	„	1	.. ..	9
White:	Fourth	„	1	.. ..	9
	Fifth	„	1	.. ..	9

The third, or central line, is occupied by the eight remaining pieces, placed alternately, thus:

Black	1, 3, 6, 8
White	2, 4, 7, 9

One point remains unoccupied, the central angle-point of the board, the fifth of the third line. This represents the royal seat in the public gatherings, but in the fanòrona game it is called the foibeny (‘navel’).

Diagram 2.

The object aimed at by each of the players is, as in draughts, to remove the whole of the adversary’s pieces from the board. But much caution is required, for we shall see that a few pieces well posted may easily annihilate more than four times their number in weaker situations; and, as in real warfare, even the very numbers of a force may sometimes prove their ruin. A few examples here will show the various ways in which the game may be opened, the manner in which the pieces are moved, and the adverse pieces captured. Let us suppose that the pieces are all placed, as just described above (see [diagram 1]). For convenience of description let the five lines on which the pieces are posted be called respectively A, B, C, D, E, instead of first line, second line, third line, etc. Any one of these letters, then, with a numeral appended, will be an easy reference to the piece that is to be moved, or to the vacant point to which a piece has to be removed, or to a hostile piece that has to be captured and removed from the board (see [diagram 2]). Then remember:

Firstly, that a piece may be moved in any direction,—forward, backwards, sideways, or diagonally to the first station in that direction, if such station be vacant.

Secondly, if there be now no other vacant station between the attacking piece just moved and the enemy’s pieces along that line, these, whatever their number, are captured at once, as far as they stand in unbroken order on the line attacked. If, however, a vacant position occurs in their line, or another hostile piece is among them, then only the piece or pieces nearest the assailant are captured.

Thirdly, the pieces of the enemy may be captured by a retreat as well as by an advance. A piece that has been standing in a station adjoining to some piece or pieces of the enemy may capture it or them by retreating one point along that line, if such point happen to be vacant. The limitation defined immediately above applies in this case also.

Fourthly, at the beginning of a game one move only is permitted to the first side. After that side has moved once, any piece that is moved is permitted to run amuck in the enemy’s lines, and go on as long as he finds foes to capture, provided (a) that he does not return immediately to any point he has just left, and (b) he cannot take a foe behind him immediately after taking one in front of him, nor one on his right hand immediately after taking on his left hand, and vice versâ. ‘Don’t eat at both ends, like a leech,’ says the Malagasy proverb.

Let us suppose that White is going to move first at the commencement of a game. There is only one vacant point on the board into which he can move a piece, namely, the foibeny or central point, which we may term C5, as it is the fifth point of the third line. There are four white pieces, any one of which may be moved into the vacant post, those on C4, D4, D5, D6. If he advances D5 to C5, then he immediately captures Black’s pieces on B5 and A5. Black may now retaliate by withdrawing his piece on B6 to A5, thereby capturing White’s pieces on C7, D8, E9. White may now, in any one of several ways, inflict a series of severe strokes on the unfortunate Black. Thus, for example:

D6, to	C7,	taking	B8, A9; then
„	B6,	„	A5;
„	B5,	„	B4, B3, B2, B1.

Now the White piece must stop awhile, for although the Black piece at B7 is under his range, yet in taking it he would be transgressing the two laws mentioned above. He would have to return to B6, which he has just quitted, and he would be ‘eating at both ends like a leech,’ which is improper. But the Black piece on B7 may now very properly provide for his own safety and circumvent his assailant by advancing thus:

B7, to	C7,	taking	D7, E7; then
„	D6,	„	E5; then
„	D5,	„	D4, D3, D2, D1; then
„	E5,	„	C5, B5.

These moves are not given as examples of what the Malagasy would consider good play, but simply to show the modus operandi of the game.

If the game happens to terminate in a ‘draw,’ which is frequently the case, then the combat may be recommenced on the same terms, the other side now taking the first move. Should one of the players have been defeated, however, he is not allowed to play on the same footing as before, for the game must be altered in a kind of mocking condescension to his weakness. The new form of the game is called véla; the one who has conquered is the mpàmpihinam-béla (he who allows to graze at large). The defeated is hómam-béla (a poor sheep not to be molested for awhile in his pasture-ground). The véla game is opened by the vanquished, and the victor exposes such of his pieces as he chooses to surrender to his antagonist. These pieces may only be taken singly, and the generous conqueror refrains from taking any of his enemy’s pieces until he has parted with, one by one, seventeen of his own; then with the remaining five he begins his campaign against the undiminished forces of his antagonist. If he be a skilful player, however, he has managed meanwhile to occupy the fortress positions of the game, and the hosts of the enemy are probably huddled together in such situations that he will come down on them ‘like a wolf on the fold.’ If the hómam-béla is again defeated he is only allowed to play the véla form of the game until he has redeemed himself by a victory. Or he may choose to humiliate himself by openly confessing his inferiority, though, as one of my informants says, ‘few of the Malagasy are willing to do that.’ In ancient times grace was accorded to the beaten combatant on condition of his kneeling down before his conqueror and bleating like a sheep (mibàrarèoka), in confession of his weakness.

Here is a specimen of the véla game, including the preliminary sacrificial moves by which Black gives up, one by one, the fated seventeen pieces. Then the time of reprisals comes, and the five survivors take the field, and give and take no quarter.

Véla Game.
White.						Black.
1.	C4	to	C5	takes	C6.	1.	C3	to	C4.
2.	C5	„	C6	„	C4.	2.	B4	„	C3.
3.	D4	„	C5	„	B6.	3.	A7	„	B6.
4.	C5	„	B4	„	A3.	4.	A8	„	A7.
5.	D5	„	C5	„	B5.	5.	A2	„	A3.
6.	E5	„	D4	„	C3.	6.	A9	„	A8.
7.	C2	„	C3	„	C1.	7.	A3	„	A2.
8.	D2	„	C2	„	B2.	8.	B1	„	B2.
9.	B4	„	B5	„	B3.	9.	A4	„	A3.
10.	C3	„	B3	„	A3.	10.	A2	„	A3.
11.	D4	„	C3	„	B2.	11.	A3	„	A2.
12.	C2	„	B2	„	A2.	12.	A8	„	A9.
13.	B5	„	B4	„	B6.	13.	A5	„	B6.
14.	B4	„	B5	„	B6.	14.	A7	„	B6.
15.	B5	„	B4	„	B6.	15.	B7	„	B6.
16.	B4	„	B5	„	B6.	16.	A9	„	A8.
17.	C6	„	B6	„	A6.	17.	Now begins Black’s attack.
							B8	to	A7	takes	C9;
								„	B7	„	C7, D7, E7.
18.	D9	„	C9	„	B9.	18.	C8	„	B8	„	D1, E8.
								„	C7	„	D6;
								„	D8	„	E9;
								„	E7	„	C9;
								„	D6	„	C5;
								„	C6	„	E6;
19.	B6	„	A6	„	C6.	19.	B7	„	B6	„	B5;
20.	A6	„	A7	„	A8.	20.	B6	„	C5	„	A7;
								„	C4	„	C3;
								„	D4	„	E4;
								„	C3	„	B2;
								„	D2	„	E1;
								„	C1	„	E3;
								„	B1	„	D1;
								„	B2	„	B3.
21.	D3	„	C3.			21.	A1	„	A2.
22.	C3	„	D4	„	B2.	22.	A2	„	A3.
23.	E2	„	D2.			23.	A3	„	B3.
24.	D2	„	C1 and wins.

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