THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES.
Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire.
For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp and manila.
These are divided into three classes:—
(1). A Hawser-laid Rope, which is composed of three strands laid up generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.)
(2). A Shroud-laid Rope, also laid up right-handed, but consisting of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre.
(3). A Cable-laid Rope, which is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4).
In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this case a right-handed cable-laid rope).
First we see the cable e formed by the three ropes d, f, and g; whilst the rope g is dissected to show the strands forming it, c, h, j; and in the strand h we see b, the yarn composing the strand, and a a yarn teased out to show the original fibre.
The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which is done as follows:—First lay the end of a length of twine along the end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off take that portion of the loop designated a, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and part b of the twine until the loop is nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part c, and cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7.
Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's end.
Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call a, the portion included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by y and z is termed the bight which we will call b, and from 3 to 4 is known as the end e.
Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make the following knots, etc:—
(1). An Overhand Knot.—Place e up through bight b, and draw taut (Fig. 9).
(2). A Figure of Eight Knot.—Back e round behind a, bring over part z and dip down through bight b and haul taut (Fig. 10).
(3). A Simple Clinch is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a small ring and securing by a seizing—a small lashing at d (Fig. 11).
One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks.
(4). A Running or Inside Clinch is the foregoing, formed by the end of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12).
(5.) An Outside Clinch, as may be inferred from its name, is formed in a similar manner, but the end c is brought round on top, that is, away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc.
(6). A Buntline Hitch (an alternative method of securing buntlines to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of putting on a seizing, take a longer end c, pass it over y, bring up through bight b, and tuck the end again over part y and through the last loop formed, so that the end c lies close to the commencement of part z (Fig. 14).
(7). A Bowline.—Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first taking part z in the right hand with y in the left, throw a loop over c, the end, as in Fig. 15.
Secondly, lead c round behind part a and pass it down through the last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in Fig. 16.
(8). A Running Bowline.—Form a loop with a long end c lying underneath the standing part a (Fig. 17).
Now bring end c over part y and with it form the bowline knot on part z just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose is required.
(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches (Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams.
The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back for further security (Fig. 21).
(10). A Clove Hitch is really a jamming form of two half hitches, and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24).
(11). A Rolling Hitch is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or when hanging off a rope with a stopper.
Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing part a and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its non-liability to slip in the direction B (Fig. 27). If, however, owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is inclined to slip, the end e should be backed round part d of the first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by a stop (Fig. 28).
(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, 30).
The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose so that its formation may be the more easily seen.
(13) A Fisherman's Bend is formed by taking two round turns around the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half hitch around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), the dotted line showing the next direction the end c must take.
It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket hitch.
(14). A Topsail Halyard Bend.—This bend is never seen in deep water ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part a and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in Fig. 34.
(14). A Stun'sail Halyard Bend is simply a Fisherman's bend with the end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35).
(15). A Blackwall Hitch is a quick way of temporarily securing a rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it consists of a half hitch, the standing part a as soon as it receives the strain jamming the end part c. It holds much more firmly than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at b before passing the end c under a, it will hold more securely.
(17). A Midshipman's Hitch is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37).
(18). A Double Blackwall Hitch is made by taking the bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the two preceding hitches.
KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE,
THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING THE ENDS.
(1). A Bowline on the Bight—Using both parts of the rope together, commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, open out bight c, and taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will appear as in Fig. 40.
(2). A Marline-Spike Hitch is used for getting a purchase with a marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing part and over the sides of the loop.
(3). A Sheep Shank is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the amount desired in the form of Fig. 42.
Then with parts a and b form a half hitch round the two parts of the bight as in Fig. 43.
To render it still more dependable, the bight a and b may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45.
(4). A Catspaw is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. 46.
Then taking hold of a and b in either hand twist them up as in Fig. 47; bring together the two eyes a and b and hook in the tackle.
