§ 20. Middle Part
Separate the hams from the middle by cutting just back of the beginning of the rise in the backbone. The ribs should be separated from the side meat. If it is desired to make pork chops, care should be taken to leave the long muscle on either side of the backbone attached to the backbone and ribs. The end of the ribs should then be cut off with a cleaver, leaving about three inches of the ribs attached to the backbone to form part of the chops. In preparing the chops for roasting, cuts should be made through the meat between the ribs and between the vertebrae.
It is the custom for butchers in Canton to remove all the meat from the ribs and backbone. The sides are then cut into strips about one inch wide, cutting from the top to the bottom, and used, fresh or cured. The ribs and backbone are then cut into small parts and prepared in a very tasty way with a sweet dressing. The dish prepared in this manner is known as chue p’aai kwat (豬排骨).
If the side meat is to be made into cured bacon, the first method of separating the ribs from the meat is followed. This leaves the side meat about one and a half to two inches thick. The strip of pure fat meat along the top, known as the fat back, the strip of belly fat at the bottom, up to, and including the teats, should be removed. The middle piece which is left after thus trimming, is used for making cured bacon. The fat back and the belly strip can be used for lard.