13.—EMBROIDERY IN SPANGLES AND CANNETILLE.
Bullion, which is a large gold wire, of which officers’ epaulets are made, frisure, a smaller bullion, clanquant, which is a flat gold ribbon, are all classed under the denomination of cannetille. Leaf-shaped spangles are called laine.
Stretch the velvet, cloth, or silk which you intend to embroider in a frame, and tack over it your pattern, which must be nicely drawn on silver paper. Suppose your pattern is a wreath of grape-vine leaves and grapes; you must put bullion on for the centre stem. This is done by running a needle and thread through the tube, and fastening it with an occasional (strongly sewn) stitch or two. Take the smaller bullion, or frisure, for the outlines of the leaves and tendrils, fastening it on in the same manner as the large bullion; vein the leaves with fine gold thread.
Make your grapes of large spangles, and purple or green glass beads, thus: Pass your needle through the velvet from underneath, take a spangle on it, then take a purple bead; pass your needle again through the spangle and back through the velvet. Then begin another grape in the same way, and fasten carefully off when your silk is used up. A wreath of grapes and holly (the holly berries red beads) round the edge of a table cover would look very nice. The cover should be of dark cloth, and edged with gold cord all around.