1876

TO

MR. A. C. DUNHAM,

AND THE

VOYAGERS ON THE DAHABEËH “RIP VAN WINKLE,”

THIS

IMPERFECT RECORD OF THEIR EXPERIENCE IS

DEDICATED.

O Commander of the Faithful. Egypt is a compound of black earth and green plants, between a pulverized mountain and a red sand. Along the valley descends a river, on which the blessing of the Most High reposes both in the evening and the morning, and which rises and falls with the revolutions of the sun and moon. According to the vicissitudes of the seasons, the face of the country is adorned with a silver wave, a verdant emerald, and the deep yellow of a golden harvest.

From Amrou, Conqueror of Egypt, to the Khalif Omar.


CONTENTS

[ PREFATORY NOTE. ]

[ CHAPTER I.—AT THE GATES OF THE EAST. ]

[ CHAPTER II.—WITHIN THE PORTALS. ]

[ CHAPTER III.—EGYPT OF TO-DAY. ]

[ CHAPTER IV.—CAIRO. ]

[ CHAPTER V.—IN THE BAZAAR. ]

[ CHAPTER VI.—MOSQUES AND TOMBS. ]

[ CHAPTER VII.—MOSLEM WORSHIP.—THE CALL TO PRAYER. ]

[ CHAPTER VIII.—THE PYRAMIDS. ]

[ CHAPTER IX.—PREPARATIONS FOR A VOYAGE. ]

[ CHAPTER X.—ON THE NILE. ]

[ CHAPTER XI.—PEOPLE ON THE RIVER BANKS. ]

[ CHAPTER XII.—SPENDING CHRISTMAS ON THE NILE. ]

[ CHAPTER XIII.—SIGHTS AND SCENES ON THE RIVER. ]

[ CHAPTER XIV.—MIDWINTER IN EGYPT. ]

[ CHAPTER XV.—AMONG THE RUINS OF THEBES. ]

[ CHAPTER XVI.—HISTORY IN STONE. ]

[ CHAPTER XVII.—KARNAK. ]

[ CHAPTER XVIII.—ASCENDING THE RIVER. ]

[ CHAPTER XIX.—PASSING THE CATARACT OF THE NILE. ]

[ CHAPTER XX.—ON THE BORDERS OF THE DESERT. ]

[ CHAPTER XXI—ETHIOPIA. ]

[ CHAPTER XXII.—LIFE IN THE TROPICS. WADY HALFA. ]

[ CHAPTER XXIII.—APPROACHING THE SECOND CATARACT. ]

[ CHAPTER XXIV.—GIANTS IN STONE. ]

[ CHAPTER XXV.—FLITTING THROUGH NUBIA. ]

[ CHAPTER XXVI.—MYSTERIOUS PHILÆ. ]

[ CHAPTER XXVII.—RETURNING. ]

[ CHAPTER XXVIII.—MODERN FACTS AND ANCIENT MEMORIES. ]

[ CHAPTER XXIX.—THE FUTURE OF THE MUMMY'S SOUL. ]

[ CHAPTER XXX.—FAREWELL TO THEBES. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXI.—LOITERING BY THE WAY. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXII.—JOTTINGS. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXIII.—THE KHEDIVE. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXIV.—THE WOODEN MAN. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXV.—ON THE WAY HOME. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXVI.—BY THE RED SEA. ]

[ CHAPTER XXXVII.—“EASTWARD HO!” ]