Handbook on dress and cloak cutting

by Charles Hecklinger

FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK—FROM A WAIST PATTERN.

The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand; in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered.

THE BACK:

In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. Lay the back against the line at O and within 1½ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3.

Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.

Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, from 1½ to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of straight line to 10.

THE SIDE-BODY.

In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the waist 1¼ inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1¼. Then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the length, which is point 9; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1¼ to 10, and begin to curve from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is.

THE FRONT.

Fig. 24.

First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.

It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner.

To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck; then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G.

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.