FIG. 3 AND 4. THE WAIST PATTERN.
Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N.
From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back.
From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D ([see Fig. 4]) at right angles with the back line.
Next, measure from ¾, or the top of back down to F, the length of back, from socket bone to the natural waist and from F draw a line over to the front at T.
From F go in 1½ inch, and draw a line for the centre of the back, from ¾ at top to 1½ at the bottom.
From O over on the top line, place 2 inches to the point marked ⅛. This will be about right for all medium sizes. For large sizes, over 40 breast, make it 2¼ inches to 2½ inches and for sizes under 30 breast-measure let it be 1½ to 1¾ inches. It will make no difference in the fit what this width may be, as it only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam. A little practice, however, will enable any one to apply the right width.
In the middle, between O and E ([see Fig. 4]), fix point B, and in the centre, between B and E, locate point C, and draw lines B and G from both points.
Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which is 6 inches for a 36; and add to it one inch, which fixes S; and from S to H place one-fourth, or 4½ inches. All fractions and divisions that we use in explanation are based on the breast-measure, and are found already divided on the square.
At S and H draw lines up, as shown. Where lines S-J and B-J cross, begin by drawing another to the top, at A.
Now, curve from ¾ to A, and from A to G, which last point is one-half inch above J. Commencing at G curve past J to R, going a trifle inside of straight line, then from R past X to V.
From R draw a straight line to 1½, and curve the back seam from R by going only a little inside of straight line at 19, thence to 2. Point 2 is 1½ inches from centre 1½. From 2 to 1 place 1 inch, then curve the side-body from 19 to 1.
Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the point D in front. This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18). Point D being placed, draw a line from there up and down to N and to U, at right angles with the line under the arm.
Fig. 3.
To form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from N to P, and, using N as a pivot, sweep from P to 15. One-quarter inch inside of front line at 15 we start to draw the curved front line to the bottom, by going outside of D one-half inch and coming back to straight line again, near U.
One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a line from T over to 12.
From P to B draw a straight line; then take the length of the back shoulder, from A to G, and place the same from P towards 17, and where this reaches is point 17.
Having located 17, curve from it above the line of shoulder at 21, and drop one-fourth inch below it at 20; and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to X; but do not quite touch A, and drop below V one-fourth inch.
Point V is midway between S and H; from it draw a straight line to 4; curve a little on both sides of it; that is, starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at 4.
About one-half inch more forward than the middle, between 19 and V, fix point X; and in the centre, between 1 and 4, locate 3; then draw a line from X to 3 and curve it.
In the middle, between H and D, mark point 12, and in the middle, between 12 and H, point 13.
Measure the distance from front, at U, to 1, and from 2 to 1½; on this draft it will be 16 inches. Now deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches, must be taken out in darts. We put them in as follows: From U to 5 place a distance of 2 inches for all average medium sizes; from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches, and between the darts, from 6 to 7, is three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8 is another dart of 2 inches.
Take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from 7 towards 13 for the height of the back dart, and let the front one start one-half inch lower; then draw them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to 9, 10, 11 and 12.
Now, at one-fourth inch below 1, curve the lower line past 3, and a trifle above it, to 12, drop point 12 a little below the line; also drop 10 a little below it; from 9 to T remain on the line straight across.
The draft is now finished by proportion, and we can assure our readers that, with the use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, it is applicable to all forms, the manner of drafting remaining the same in all cases.
All our figures, unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. We do this because it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different material than to draft it on the pattern.
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
The measures we shall use are the following: Breast, 36; waist, 24; length of natural waist, 15; height under arm, 7; front of arm, 10½; width of back, 6½; front length, 18½.
In drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures as stated above to get all points on the draft. All the lines and curves will come out in similar manner to the previous draft. Fig. 4 starts by drawing a line O-F and O-N; go down from O three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, and curve from ¾ to A.
From ¾ down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a line over to the front and go in 1½ inches and mark a point.
From ¾ to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back.
Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw a line to the front.
From Z to D is one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down. Also measure from Z to S, the actual width of the back, and from Z to H, the front of the arm, 10½ inches, or the blade measure which is taken from the front of the arm over the blade to the centre of the back. At S and H draw lines up.
In the middle between O and E mark point B, and in the middle between B and E point C, and draw the lines across as shown. ([See Fig. 4.])
From where the lines cross at J, draw one across to top of back at A, and curve from A to G which point is one-half inch above J.
Beginning at G curve arm-hole past J, a trifle inside of line between J and R, and from thence to V. This last is midway between S and H.
Make the bottom of the back 1½ inches wide. This is only a medium, as it can be made 1 inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam either further back or more to the front. Then from R draw a straight line to 1½ and slightly curve a line drawn to 19 and to 2. Between 19 and 2 curve more towards centre of back. A few trials will enable you to make a nice shaped curve.
Fig. 4.
From 2 on back to side body at 1 is 1 inch, and curve from 19 to 1.
From V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a trifle on either side of it, also separate side-body from X to 3. Point X is midway between line R and V and the distance between 3 and 4 is about ½ inch more than X to V.
Take ⅙ of the breast, equal to 3 inches, and place it from point N to P and use point N as a pivot and sweep from P to 15.
At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front length, which is in our measure 18½, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever it reaches to is point P. This may, sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the line; and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even with shoulder for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a point below N, so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.
Wherever point P is located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from A to G on this line from P to get point 17. Then from 17 curve above it about one-quarter inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, to V, as shown on the diagram. Drop a trifle from 17 to 20.
At the front, draw the line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch, gradually curving out till at D we have one-half inch curve, and thence going in again to the line at waist, point U. From U go down 1¼ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.
Measure the distance F to U, leaving out the opening between 1 and 2, which in this case will be 16 inches. Now, one-half of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches, which must be taken out in darts.
To produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows: first locate a point in the middle between H and D which gives 12, and in the centre between H and 12, another which is marked 13.
From U to 5 place 2 inches, as we never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front, then from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches or one-half of the amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches from 7 to 8. In the centre of each dart mark a point and draw lines from these to 12 and 13.
One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22 is one-half inch lower, and starting from each of the last points curve the darts as shown.
It will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top, and that below the waist-line they run straight down without any spring being given.
From 1 curve to 3 and 4; but between 3 and 4 it runs a trifle above waist-line, and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests on line, from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to add that this, as well as the preceding, requires the adding of seams according to material used.