FIG. 7. BASQUE PATTERN.
This figure represents a short pointed basque as it can be produced by this System—whether by proportion or by measure. We have already fully explained the manner of producing all the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and it is not necessary to go over it here again, it being the same as any other waist.
Fig. 7.
From the waist down we place whatever length is wanted in the back to get point J or line B. From 1 and 1½ lines are drawn down, and whatever is put on from S to back line must be also added from line at 30 to 28.
On a short basque the back line does not touch point J, it having less spring, and therefore the width of back, at S, is only a little more than at the waist, or about one-half inch on each side of the straight lines.
From J to 28 curve up, to taste. If wanted with a high curve at side, over the hips, it may reach above 28; and when desired straight around the bottom draw it along bottom line, or similar to a jacket, as shown on other Figures.
The side-body at bottom must start at S, level with 28, rising up towards R.
Q is even with R, and from it to O draw the line a little lower.
Point P is also level with O; thence, forward, it is drawn so that the front point is either level with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the Figure, where it is two inches lower.
The darts are placed the same as on a waist. But below the waist line F they curve, as shown. The best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from 11, 12, 13 and 14, drawing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will thus be seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve is here needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this way, when the darts are sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.
When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight line down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also take out about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.
From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn, and an equal amount is put each side of this line, over the hips, to R and O.
It will be noticed that point 18 is in the middle, between line E and the line K, or point S on Fig. 4; and point 15 is midway between 18 and line K; the width of the side-body, at the waist, is made wider; the line from 18 is always drawn straight down, then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15 through 20 draw the other line.