INDEX

Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, [59], [319]
Abruzzi, Duke of the, [2], [3], [5], [155]
Acchu, cook, [103], [133], [178]
Acclimatisation to high altitudes, [277], [308], [341]
Alpine Club, [1], [7], [14–19], [305]
[Altitude], effects on human frame, [5], [102], [104–5], [137–8], [154–5], [199], [204], [206–7], [253–4], [276], [307–8], [315], [341]; on breathing, [200], [243–4], [277]; on tinned fish, [50]
Ammo-chu, river, [39], [44], [291]
Aneroids, [341]
Ang Tenze, coolie, [113], [149–51], [166]
Ari, bungalow, [33]
[Arun, river], [89], [104–5]; gorges, [110], [125], [221], [297], [298]; [see Bhong-chu]
Avalanches, [231], [267–9], [308–9]
Bailey, Major, [31], [314]
Bamtso, lake, [49]
Bell, Sir Charles, [16], [24], [166]
Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, [39]
[Bhong-chu], river, [64–5], [69–71], [89–90], [93], [99], [100], [110], [159], [161], [295]; upper valley, [320], [322]; [see Arun]
Bhotias, [24]
Bhotia ponies, [27]
Bhotia Kosi, river, [338]
Birds, [290–303], [312], [344–6]
Brahma Putra, river, [61]; see [Tsangpo]
Bridges, [69], [93–4], [103], [115], [123], [159–60], [191]
Bruce, General, [1], [3], [13], [17], [154], [312]
Buchan, J., [19]
Buddhism and Buddhists, [25], [67–8], [173]; books, [41]; red cap sect, [173]; yellow cap sect, [58], [173]; regard for animal life, [59], [80], [166], [290]; [see Monasteries, prayer-wheels]
Bullock, G. H., [19], [26], [52]; [see Mallory]
Bullocks, [48], etc; [see Transport]
Burrard, Sir S., [10–12]
Carpo-ri, mountain, [227]; ascended, [117], [229–35], [268]
Chamlang, mountain, [140]
Chandra Nursery, [32]
[Chang La (North Col),] [142]; first view of, [204], [207], [212], [220]; way to, [233–40], [246–8], [256]; camp on, [259–60]; best route to, [273–4], [311–12], [334–5]
[Changtse, North peak of Everest], [142], [213], [215], [233–4]
Chelmsford, Lord, [16]
Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, [25], [39], [69], [91], [95], [112], [162], [179]
Chinese in Tibet, [38–9], [71–2], [173]; in Nepal, [173]
Chitayn, coolie, [212]
Chöbuk, monastery and bridge, [82], [95], [190], [191], [312], [327]
Chödzong, village, [86]
Chog La, [106], [121], [129], [299–300]
Choksum, village, [324]
Chomiomo, mountain, [52], [54], [140], [166]
Chomolhari, mountain, [45], [48], [60], [64], [167], [263]
Chomolönzo, mountain, [114], [116], [149–51]
Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), [13], [24], [107], [224]
Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), [64]
Chorabsang, mountain, [77–8]; (=Cho Rapsang, [331])
Chortens, [40], [66], [174], [286], etc.
Cho Uyo, mountain, [73], [76], [78], [101], [207], [219], [330]
Chöyling monastery, [194]
Chulungphu, village, [89], [104]
Chumbi valley, [25], [37–44], [170], [177–8]; village, [38]; fauna and flora, [291]
Chushar Nango, village, [60–61], [131], [134], [295]
Chuphar, village and monastery, [327]
Chu-tronu, [123]
Collie, J. N., [17–18]
Compasses, [342]
Conway, Sir M., [4], [5]
[Coolies], [23–5]; behaviour, [47], [146], [156], [213], [216], [222–3], etc.; as carriers, [92–4], [113], [122], [158], [284–6]; [see Transport]; in mountaineering, [84], [188], [195], [203–6], [212], [230], [251] ff., [332]
Crampons, [207–8], [272]
Cups of tea, as measures of distance, [108]
Curios, [67], [157]
Curzon, Lord, [1], [19]
Dak, village, [93]
Dalai Lama, the, [16], [173]
Darjeeling, [23–28], [179]
Dasno, coolie, [234]
Desiccation, [51]
Dochen, bungalow, [49], [168]
Dokcho, village, [321]
[Donka monastery], [40–42]
Donkeys, [48], [64], [65], etc.; [See Transport]
Dorje, cook, [50]
Dorji Gompa, coolie, [202], [256]
Doto nunnery, [51]
Doya La, the, [88], [104], [336]
Dram, village, [325]
Drophung monastery, [323]
Dug pass, [50]
Dukpa, cook, [134], [188]
Dunge pokri, island, [127]
[Dzakar (or Zakar) Chu, river], [93–5], [297], [333]
Eaton, J. E. C., [17]
Equipment, [20], [315], [341]
[Everest, Mount], [1–2], [183]; position, [9], [13]; height, [10–12]; names, [13], [64], [225]; seen from Khamba Dzong, [54], [56], [183–4]; from Shiling, [64], [186–88], [217], [230], [263]; from Rongbuk Valley, [192], [263–4]; from Kama Valley, [116], [226]; local ignorance of, [107], [112], [116]; structure, [192–4], [203], [215], [310]; best season for ascent, [153], [248], [270]; difficulties of, [154], [276], [308]; plans for, in 1921, [250–52]
— — Committee, [16] ff.
— — Expedition, origin of, [14–16]; value of, [5]; objects, [17–18]; cost, [19]; equipment, [20], [315], [341]; results, [179–80], [310–12], [338], [341]. [See Survey]
Everest, Sir G., [13]
Farrar, Captain J. P., [14], [17], [19], [315]
Finch, Captain G., [19], [313], [315]
“Finger,” the, station, [335–6]
Fourteen lakes, valley of the, [106], [121]; fauna and flora, [299]
Fowkes, Sergeant, [28]
Freshfield, D. W., [1], [14–16], [18]
Fuel, [80], [105], [171], [211], [237], [247], [273], [331]
Gadompa, village and bridge, [160–61]
[Galinka, village and monastery], [40]
[Gandenchöfel monastery], [108], [131]
Gauri Sankar, mountain, [288], [326], [331]
Gautsa, bungalow, [40]
Gelupka (= Yellow Cap) sect, [173]
Geshe Rimpoche, Lama, [40]
Ghoom, [29]
Glaciers, ancient extent of, [128]; characteristics, [194], [197], [218]; atmosphere, [200], [243], [270]
Gnatong, village, [35–6], [178]
Gosainthan, mountain, [64], [101], [284], [322–3]
Graham, Dr., [30–31]
Graphic, the, [19]
Gujjar Singh, surveyor, the, [319], [323–7]
Gurkhas in Tibet, the, [71], [95], [106]
Guru Rimpoche, saint, [173]
Gyachung Kang, mountain, [207], [219], [330]
Gyalzen Kazi, interpreter, [25], [56], [133], [137], [163], [177–8], [188], [190], [202], [323]
Gyangka-nangpa, house, [62], [184]
Gyanka range of mountains, [184]
Haldane, J. S., [341]
Halung, village, [86–7], [103], [240]; valley, [339]
Hari Ram, explorer, [319], [324]
Harvest rents, [161], [174]
Hatarana, steamer, [24]
Hayden, Sir H., [338]
Harvest rents, [80], [83–4], [99]
[Heron, Dr. A. M.], [20], [26]; expeditions from Tingri, [74], [77–85], [98], [120], [325]; first expedition to Kharta, [86–95], [162], [164], [179–80]; in Upper Kharta Valley, [253]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [337], and Teesta Valley, [164], [37]; note on geological results, [338–340]
Himalaya, [7–8], [11], [304] ff.; H. and the Alps, [194]
Hinks, A. R., [17], [20], [315]; notes on scientific equipment, [341–2]
Holdich, Sir T., [15]
Hopaphema, landowner, [91–3], [104], [108], [111–12], [157–8]
Hot springs. See [Kambu], [Tsamda]
Howard-Bury, Colonel C. K., [13], [15], [17], [20], [243]; author of the general narrative of the expedition, [23–180;]; expeditions from Tingri, [75–85]; first expedition to Kharta, [86–95]; expeditions from Kharta, [106–111]; visits Kama Valley, [112] ff.; ascent of 19,500 ft. ridge, [116]; of Kama Changri, [136–7]; of Lhakpa La, [140–145], [257] ff.
Huc, abbé, [293]
India Office, [16]
India, Government of, [16], [23]
— Survey of, [20], [26–7], [341]
Interpreters, [25], [47]; discretion of, [108]
Isaacs, Mr., [39]
“Island,” the, [209], [213], [219]
Jack, Colonel E. M., [17], [20], [315]
Jannu, mountain, [117], [135], [140]
Jelep La, [36], [37], [178], [290], [291] note
Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chöfel, saint, [109], [325]
Jongpens, [174–5], [283], [324]
Jonsong, mountain, [47], [140]
Kabru, mountain, [26], [47], [168]
Kala-tso, lake, [51]
Kalimpong, village, [29–30]
Kama Valley, [112–119], [146–52], [225–7], [311], [339]; fauna and flora, [300–01]
Kama Changri, mountain, [114], [136–7]
Kama-chu, river, [122–4]
[Kambu] hot springs, [40–43]; valley, [291]
Kanchenjunga, mountain, [9], [46], [117], [135], [140], [185]
Kanchenjhow, mountain, [52], [54], [104], [166]
Kang-chu, river, [325]
Kangchen and -chung passes, [326]
Kangdoshung glacier, [115–16]
Kangshung glacier, [149–51]
Karpo La, [147]
Karro Pumri, mountain, [326]
Kartse, mountain, [141]
Kellas, A. M., [14], [18], [26], [341]; illness and death, [46–49], [52–54], [164], [321]
Khamba Dzong,fort and village, [13], [24], [53–57], [96], [164]
Kharkung, village, [161]
Kharta, [24], [90]; first visit to, [88–93]; headquarters of the expedition, [104–5], [110]; survey of, [323], [327]; valley formation, [339]; fauna and flora, [299], [301–03]
Khartaphu, mountain, [330]
Khe or Khetam, village, [50–51]
Kheru, [51]
Khombu pass, [76], [78–9], [312], [339]
— valley, [150–51]
Kimonanga, village, [124]
Korabak, rock, [124]
Kuti (= Nyenyam), village, [324]
Kyetrak, village and valley, [74–77], [327], [331]
— glacier, [70], [77–79], [312]; river, [79]
Kyishong, village, [65], [102]
Lachen, [56], [337]
Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, [319], [322], [327]
Lamna La, [81], [327]
Langkor, village and temple, [281], [323]
Langma La, [112–13], [130], [224]
Langra, rest-house, [37], [178]
Lapche, village and monastery, [287], [325–6]
Lapche Kang, mountain, [115], [284–5], [325]
Lashar, village, [161]
Lebong, races at, [27]
Leeches, [34–5], [123–4], [126], [300], [337]
Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), [138], [161], [273–4]; first visits to, [240–249], [255–6]; camp on, [140–44], [257–8], [261]
Lhasa, [16], [24], [173], [174]; road to, [48–49]
Lhonak peaks, [52]
Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), [116], [213]
Lingga, village, [57], [163–4]
Lingmatang, plain, [40], [44], [291]
Longstaff, Dr. T. G., [1], [5], [314]
Lumeh, village, [93–4], [159]
Lungchen La, [322]
Lungdö, village, [110], [125]
Lunghi, [167]
Macdonald, David and family, [31], [38], [177]
LMakalu, mountain, [104], [116], [118–19], [137], [186], [225–6] etc.; glacier, [151]
[Mallory, G. H. L.], [19], [26], [313]; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, [74], [181–220]; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), [205–7], [264]; moves to Kharta, [102–106]; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, [117], [221–249]; back to Kharta, [130]; ascends Kama Changri, [136–7]; final assault and ascent of North Col, [131–145], [250–261]; leaves Kharta, [153]; views on weather conditions, [262–72]; on the route up Everest, [273–79]
Mammals, [290–303], [312], [344], etc.
Mani Walls, [40], [174], etc.
Maps of Tibet, [62]
“Marigolds, Field of,” [119], [152]
Matsang, village, [125]
Meade, C. F., [5], [17], [19]
Mendalongkyo, [129]
Mende, village, [57]
Menkhap-to and -me, villages, [322]
Menlung pass, [327]
“Metohkangmi,” [141]
Mila Respa, saint, [287]
[Monasteries], [99], [113], [173]. See [Donka], [Galinka], [Ganden Chöfel], [Rongbuk], [Shekar Chöte], etc.
[Monsoon], [31], [48], [88], [91], [139], [216], [248], [262] ff. See [Rainfall]
[Morshead, Major H. T.], [20], [25–27], [54], [65], [75], [96]; trip to Nyenyam, [97], [108], [281–9], [323–5]; at Kharta, [112]; survey of Kharta Valley, [131–2], [135]; first ascent of Lhakpa La, [130], [230–49]; ascends Kama Changri, [136–7]; second ascent of Lhakpa La, [140–144], [253–8]; map by, [312], [338]; account of survey by, [319–28]
Mountain sickness, [207], [258], [323]. See [Altitude]
Mountaineering, [2–4], [6–8], [305–6]
[Mules], lent by Government, [27–8]; breakdown of, [33–4]; Tibetan, [32–33], [48], etc. See [Transport]
Nangba (= Khombu), pass, [77], [331]
Narsing, mountain, [26]
Nathu La, [37]
Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, [173]
Nepal, [13]
Nepalese coolies, [25], [122]; invasion of Tibet, [71], [73]; traders, [122], [127], [324]; herdsmen, [126]
Nezogu bridge, [100], [102]
Ngawangyonten, official, [94]
Nieves penitentes, [78]
Nila pass, [61], [184]
Noel, Major J. B. L., [14], [314]
Nomads, [51], [171]
North Col of Everest, [212], [215]. See [Chang La]
North cwm of Everest, [200], [203–4]
North peak. See [Chang-tse]
North-East Arête, [215], [227], [235], [250–51], [259], [274–6], [310]
Norton, Major E. F., [313]
Nuns and nunneries, [51], [80], [83], [166]
Nyenyam, [73], [97], [108], [283–4], [297], [324]
Nyima Tendu, coolie, [113], [149–51], [234]
Oxygen for climbers, [154], [277], [307–8], [315–16], [341]
Padamchen (= Sedongchen), [33]
Padma Sambhava, saint, [337]
Pashok, [173]
Pawhunri mountains, [46], [52], [54], [166]
Pedong, [31–2]
Pekhu plain, [322]
Peshoke, bungalow, [29]
Pethang Ringmo, [116], [138]
Pethangtse, mountain, [117], [147]
Phari, fort and village, [24], [35], [45–8], [168]; plain, [46], [292]
Pharuk, district, [323], [327]
Phema, village, [38]
Philadelphia Ledger, the, [19]
Photography, [68], [72–3], [156], [216–17], [314], [315], [38], [342–3], etc.; perils of, [74–5]; surveying by, [320], [329–30]
Phuri, village, [322]
Phuse La. See [Pusi pass]
Pilgrims, [70], [99], [121]
Plants, [290–302], [312], [346–50], etc.
Pö-chu, river, [284–5], [297–8], [323–4]
Ponglet, view from, [188], [218], [263]
Pilgrims, [27], [34], [48], [87], [101], etc; See [Transport]
Poo, coolie, [75], [113], [156], [178]
Popti La, [106], [126–7], [300]
Postal arrangements, [96–7], [131], [135]
Prayer wheels, [39–40], [53], [91], [98], [110], [174], [289]
Primus stoves, [142–3], [154], [208], [331], [121]
Pulahari, village, [281]
Pulme, [94]
Pumori, mountain, [209]
Punagang monastery, [39]
[Pusi pass], [77], [79], [289] (= Phuse La, [327], [330])
Quiok, pass, [159]
Rabkar-chu, river and glacier, [115]
Ra-chu, river, [70], [330]
[Rainfall], [29], [37], [56], [99], [105], [262] ff.
Rawling, Major, [13–14]
Reading, Lord, [23]
Rebu, village, [87], [103]; valley, [339]
Rhenock, [32]
Ri-Ring, mountain, ascended, [205–6], [270], [311]
Richengong, village, [38], [291]
Ronaldshay, Lord, [32], [179]
[Rongbuk], glacier, [84]; central and W. branches explored, [194–220]; E. branch, [179], [142], [216–18], [247–9], [273–4], [334–6]; stream from, [199], [218]
— monastery, [83]
— valley, [82], [191], [339]
Rongkong, village, [63]
Rongli, bungalow, [32], [178]
Rongme, village, [63]
Rongshar, valley, [77], [288–9], [298], [325–6]
Ruddamlamtso, lake, [121], [128]
Rugby, Tibetan boys at, [172]
Ryder, Colonel C. H. D., [13], [319]
Sakeding, village, [121–22], [127–8]
Samchung, pass, [106], [121], [129]
Sand dunes, [58], [63–4], [295]
Sandakphu, [12], [13]
Sanglu, coolie, [254], [256–7]
Sedongchen, village, [33–4]
Senchal, [29]
Serpo-La, [164], [337]
Shao La, [112], [118], [153]
Sharto, village, [75], [330]
Shassi (= New Yatung), [38]
Shatog, village, [162]
[Shekar-Chöte, monastery], [67–8], [94]
Shekar Dzong, fort and village, [45], [66–7], [96], [295]
Sherpa Bhotias, coolies, [24], [188], [224], [252]
Shidag, nunnery, [51]
Shigatse, [51], [55], [174]
Shiling, [51], [161], [188]. See [Everest, Mount]
Shung-chu, river, [79]
Shurim Tso, lake, [114]
Sikkim, survey of, [27], [320–21], [327]; journey through, [29–36]; flora of, ibid.
Siniolchum, mountain, [46]
Sipri mountains, [99]
Skis, [158]
[Snow], [248], [254], [264–8]; temperature of, [270]; powdery, [171], [231], [243], [256]; powdery snow and wind, [139], [142], [144], [159], [167–8], [259–60], [271], etc.
Snow-blindness, [103], [167], [171]
Snowfall, [37], [171]
Snow line, [56]
Snow men, the abominable, [141]
Shigatse, [137], [211–14], [232], [243], [254], [265], [270]
Somers Cocks, E. L., [16]
Somervell, H. T., [312], [313]
Strutt, Colonel E. L., [313]
Sun's rays, [270], [308]
[Survey work of expedition], [179], [312]. See [Heron], [Morshead], [Wheeler]
Sutso plain, [99], [321–22]
Takda, cantonment, [29]
Tamba Sanye, saint, [281], [323]
Tameness of animals, [59–60], [76–77], [80], [83], [88], [94], [131]
Tang La, [48], [167], [323]
Tang-pün-sum, plain, [48]
Tangsham, [114], [117], [152]
Targyeling, village, plain, [324]
Tasang, village, [79], [289], [327]
Tashi Dzom, [95]
Tashilumpo monastery, [51], [173]
Tashishong, [325]
Tatsang, nunnery, [52], [165–6]
Teesta Valley, [27], [29–30], [164], [337]
Temperature, [79], [308], [342]
Tents, airlessness of, [143], [154], [258]
Thermometers, [342]
Thrashing, [164]
Thung-La, [282]; fauna and flora, [297]
Tibet, [13], [36], [170] ff.; geology of, [338]; Government, [173–4;]; helps the expedition, [16], [24], [45], etc.
Tibetans, [170] ff.
Tibetan beer, [57], [125], [156]; bread, [125]; burial, [74], [133]; climate, [49], [176]; coinage and currency, [47], [59], [123]; coolies, [223–4]; houses, [38], [89]; bread, [321]; marriage, [74]; meals, [48], [59], [62], [67], [101], [108], etc.; mules, [177–9]; ornaments, [73], [101], [107]; ponies, [72], [55], [101], [176]; superstitions, [66], [72], [109], [122], [141], [174], [282]; tea, [41], etc.
Times, newspaper, [19], [156]
Tingri, newspaper, [70–75], [95–101]; plain of, [70]; its fauna and flora, [96], [295–7]; origin of name, [282], [323]
Tinki, fort and village, [58], [162]; birds of, [294]; pass, [60], [162], [321]; flowers of, [295]
Trangso Chumbab, rest-house, [65]
[Transport], [27–8], [34–5], [45], [48], [60], [65], [69], [86], [92], [158–9], [165], [173], [284]. See [Coolies], [Mules],[Yaks]
Trintang, village, [326]
Tropde, village, [326]
Tsakor, village, [70]
[Tsamda], [99], [321]
Tsampa, [172–3], [222], [337]
Tsang, province, [70]
[Tsangpo, river], [319–20]
Tsering, five peaks, [326]
Tsogo, [65], [159]
Tsomotretung, lake, [61]
Tsong Kapa, monk, [173]
Tulsi Dass, gardener, [32]
Tulung, village, [323]
Tuna, rest-house, [48]
Turubaz Khan, surveyor, [319], [321]
Wakefield, Dr. A. W., [313]
Waugh, Sir A., [10], [12], [13]
Weather. See [Monsoon], [Rainfall],[Wind]
West cwm of Everest, [208–9], [212], [214]
[Wheeler, Major, E. O.], [20], [26], [52], [164], [252], [320]; expedition to Kyetrak, [74], [77–81], [98], [330–33]; to Rongbuk Valley, [102], [333–36]; discovers E. Rongbuk glacier, [217], [240], [247–8], [334]; arrives at Kharta, [249]; to Lhakpa La, [140–44], [257]; to Chang La, [144–5], [258–61]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [337], and Teesta Valley, [164], [337]; map by, [312], [328], [338]; account of photographic survey by, [329–337]
[Wind], [50], [72], [75], [147–8], [171], [178], [265], [308], [342]. See [Snow]
Wollaston, A. F. R., [20], [26]; returns with Raeburn to Sikkim, [56]; rejoins at Tingri, [74], [75], [96]; trip to Nyenyam, [97], [108], [323–25]; described by him, [281–89]; at Kharta, [249]; to Lhakpa La, [140] ff., [257–8]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [165], [342]; natural history notes by, [290–303], [344–350]; collections, [312]
[Yaks], [61], [81], [161], [171], [286], [294], etc.
Yaru, river, [56–7], [61–3], [101–2]
Yatung, [38–9], [177]
Younghusband, Sir F., [1], [15–17], [19], [20]
Zachar-chu. See [Dzakar-chu]
Zambu, village, [81]

Printed in Great Britain by Butler & Tanner, Frome and London

MAP I.
PRELIMINARY MAP
to illustrate the route of the
MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION
1921.
Reduced from the map on the scale 1/253440
by Major Morshead and assistants of the Survey of India, accompanying the expedition: the neighbourhood of the Mountain from Map II.
Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11·84 Stat. Miles.

MAP II.
Preliminary Map
of
MOUNT EVEREST
constructed at the R. G. S.
from photographs and sketches
made by the
EXPEDITION of 1921
Scale 1/100,000 or 1 Inch = 1·58 Stat. Miles.

MAP III.
THE GEOLOGY
of the
MOUNT EVEREST REGION
from the surveys of
Dr. A. M. HERON
Geological Survey of India
1921.
The topography from Map I.
Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11·84 Stat. Miles.