PREFACE.
As a young Author I may be allowed to make a few introductory remarks, for the purpose of propitiating that spirit of critical inquiry which will probably be directed to the examination of these volumes.
To undertake this journey into Africa I resigned a valuable medical appointment in the East, and voluntarily assumed the character of an adventurer. My taste and prudence were questioned much at the time by my friends. Whether the results of the ambition which prompted me to endeavour to be of service to others are, or are not, sufficient reward for the sacrifice I made, now depends upon the judgment of my reader.
In 1840 I held the appointment of Surgeon on board the iron armed steamer Phlegethon, on secret service, but presumed to be bound for the Eastern coast of Africa or India. I had long entertained the idea of travelling in Africa, and determined to carry this into effect by resigning at the end of the voyage out, and returning to England by a road across that continent. Accordingly, whilst in London, I prepared in some measure for the journey, by purchasing such instruments and outfit that I thought would be necessary. I also waited upon Captain Washington,[[1]] then Secretary of the Geographical Society, who entered warmly into my views, and introduced me to Captains Trotter and Allen, who were about to proceed upon the Niger expedition.
[1]. Now commanding the Blazer steam-vessel, R. N.
In May 1841 the Phlegethon reached Calcutta, and my respected Commander, the late lamented R. F. Cleveland, Esq., R. N., aware of my intention to travel, introduced me to several members of the Indian Government, who afforded me every facility to enable me to enter Africa from the coast opposite to Aden, and from whence a Political Mission, under Captain Harris, was then on the eve of starting for the court of Shoa in Abyssinia.
I beg particularly to acknowledge the interest that the Governor-General, the Right Hon. the Earl of Auckland, took in my proposed expedition, and also the kindness and attention I received from T. Prinsep, Esq., First Member of the Council, and T. H. Maddock, Esq., Secretary to the Government. I take this opportunity also of expressing to Capt. Haines, the political resident in Aden, my lively feelings of respect and gratitude for kindnesses the most disinterested, and for that assistance without which I could never have undertaken my subsequent journey.
Of my reception in Abyssinia by Captain Harris, I speak elsewhere, but the spirit with which my arrival was hailed may be supposed by the fact that during the first evening I managed, according to the notes of our conversation taken by my very courteous entertainer, to assert a falsehood, to which, however, when I became aware of the circumstance I gave an unqualified contradiction, and so ended all friendly intercourse until some months after, when a peace was negotiated through the mediation of Capt. Graham.
The circumstances of this quarrel were most embarrassing to me, and have, I believe, occasioned considerable indignation on the part of those who had assisted me so far on my travels. Some respect, however, I do owe to myself, and feeling annoyed at being the subject of unworthy imputations, I have abstained from making any explanation whatever. Circumstances already have, in a great measure, exonerated me. The confidence of public men may be abused for a time, but it cannot long be imposed upon.
Before laying down my pen, I must remark that I am not learned either in the Arab or the Amharic tongues, and when I have ventured to insert a few words from either language, it is to add some little to the scene, not to lead any one to suppose that the smattering I picked up among the natives is paraded in affectation of great oriental learning.
In the orthography of proper names, I have used English letters, I know no other so well. Distrusting my ear and taste, I referred to the published works of three modern Abyssinian travellers, who affect to be directed by a foreign standard of pronunciation. Finding them all to disagree, I had no other resource but to fall back upon the despised alphabet of my mother tongue.
Of my views upon the geography of Abyssinia, I am glad to observe, that since I advocated them at the Royal Geographical Society’s Meetings, culminating points and anticlinal axes have given way to the proper idea of a table-land surrounded by a rampart-like scarp.
An earnest wish to be impressive, when I believe myself to be right, has occasioned me sometimes to assume a tone of overweening confidence. For this I ask to be excused; and in palliation for minor faults of composition, must advance my long-continued ill-health, which has prevented close application for the purposes of amending or correcting the manuscript.
London, June 1st, 1844.
CONTENTS TO VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
| PAGE | |
| Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.—Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed farther.—Return to Aden | [1] |
CHAPTER II.
| Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the town and fair.—Departure for Zeila.—The town of Zeila.—Second visit to Tajourah. | [18] |
CHAPTER III.
| Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious ceremonies, law, and justice. | [36] |
CHAPTER IV.
| Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations for our departure.—The day fixed for our start. | [61] |
CHAPTER V.
| Journey to Ambabboo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Dulhull.—Stay at Dulhull. | [70] |
CHAPTER VI.
| Staying at Dulhull.—Journey to Segallo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Daddahue.—Attack of the Bursane subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night. | [89] |
CHAPTER VII.
| Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to Bulhatoo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Dafarrè.—From Dafarrè to Aleek’shatan.—Journey to Alephanta. | [107] |
CHAPTER VIII.
| The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur.—Scene of the murder of three soldiers of the British Mission in 1840.—Halt.—Journey to Allulee.—Attack of the Muditu tribe. | [126] |
CHAPTER IX.
| Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our Kafilah.—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Gurguddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a slave.—March to Khrabtu.—Proceed to Saggadarah. | [148] |
CHAPTER X.
| Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy.—Halt.—Journey to Ramudalee.—Halt to receive the visit of Lohitu, Chief of the Debenee tribe. | [166] |
CHAPTER XI.
| Stay at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu.—Leave Ramudalee for the valley of Gobard. | [177] |
CHAPTER XII.
| Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds of the basin of the Hawash.—Comparison of present route with that of previous travellers. | [195] |
CHAPTER XIII.
| Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake Abhibhad.—March to Saggagahdah.—Meet Kafilah of Mahomed Allee.—Halt for the night. | [206] |
CHAPTER XIV.
| Description of the plain of Saggagahdah.—Dowaleeka lake.—Effects of mirage.—Slave Kafilah.—Write letters to Aden.—Retire from camp with Lohitu.—Interview with Mahomed Allee. | [217] |
CHAPTER XV.
| Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito.—Meet old friends.—Conversation upon the origin of the Dankalli people.—Journey from Mokoito to Ahmahguloff.—Description of halting-place. | [229] |
CHAPTER XVI.
| Journey to Koranhedudah.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of halting-place.—Singular solar phenomenon.—Journey to Herhowlee.—Bedouin village.—Bedouin ladies. | [245] |
CHAPTER XVII.
| Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.—March to Barradudda.—Description of halting-place.—Religious discussion | |
| with Ohmed Medina. | [258] |
CHAPTER XVIII.
| Stay at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by accidental discharge of my gun.—Bedouin skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured property.—Peace re-established. | [271] |
CHAPTER XIX.
| Journey to Thermadullah.—Quarrel with Ras ul Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—Camel saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Account of some neighbouring hot springs. | [285] |
CHAPTER XX.
| Journey to Alee-bakalee.—May 1st.—Journey to Hasanderah.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of cattle.—Architectural labours.—Mahomedan popular superstitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin father. | [300] |
CHAPTER XXI.
| Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of refraction.—Joined by a party of Issah Soumaulee.—Description of their appearance and arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah friends.—Description of halting-place and country around Bundurah. | [313] |
CHAPTER XXII.
| Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.—La Belle Sauvage.—Long discussion with the Wahama.—Differences settled, and allowed to proceed. | [331] |
CHAPTER XXIII.
| Journey to Hiero Murroo.—False alarm at starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barker.—Offered marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.—Find abandoned property of the Mission.—Negotiations for its restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah. | [345] |
CHAPTER XXIV.
| Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of Kafilah people during long halts.—Game of gubertah.—Muditu visitors.—Expected attack.—Bedouins feasting.—Portion of entrail around the neck of a Bedouin, not for ornament, but use.—Amusements. | [360] |
CHAPTER XXV.
| Journey to Mettah.—Conversation upon different roads through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant, Allee.—Halt near Assa-hemerah kraal. | [380] |
CHAPTER XXVI.
| Journey to Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little farriery.—Cautions for practitioners of medicine resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe | [391] |
CHAPTER XXVII.
| Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Eating raw meat.—Another offer of marriage.—Strange mode of dressing the hair.—Caution to travellers; perhaps unnecessary. | [408] |
CHAPTER XXVIII.
| Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of their arms.—Arrive at Mullu.—Write letter to Ankobar. | [418] |
CHAPTER XXIX.
| Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare hunt.—Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight scene.—Stay at Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo Galla women.—Attack of formidable caterpillar.—Situation of halting-place at Annee. | [431] |
CHAPTER XXX.
| Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of forces.—Ras ul Kafilah balances profit and loss so far. | [445] |
CHAPTER XXXI.
| Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Journey to Azbotee.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflections. | [455] |
CHAPTER XXXII.
| Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee.—Start with escort in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Wahama town.—Arrive at Dinnomalee.—Detained by Custom-house officers.—Get to Farree.—Accommodations.—Hospitable reception. | [474] |
SKETCH MAP
SHEWING THE
WATERSHEDS OF ABYSSINIA
BY
CHARLES JOHNSTON
Published by J. Madden & Co. June 3rd. 1844
TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, ETC.