VI. CABBAGES, TURNIPS, CARROTS, BEETS, AND ONIONS.
BY BYRON D. HALSTED, SC. D.
The Cabbage is a native of Europe, and grows wild along the sea coasts of England. The wild plant lives for two years, has fleshy leaves, and is so different from the cabbages of the garden as not to be recognized as their parent. Under cultivation this one species of plant (Brassica oleracea[1]) has produced the Savoy, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, borecole,[2] etc. A more wonderful plant and a more useful one is seldom found in the whole range of the vegetable kingdom. The Romans did much to extend the culture of the cabbage. In Scotland it was not generally known until the time of Cromwell. Much improvement has been made in American sorts of cabbages within the past fifty years. In the wild state the cabbage has a hard, woody stalk, but the fine specimens in market have only a small stem, bearing a large, compact head, of closely folded leaves.
The first essential in the successful growing of cabbage is the right kind of soil. It should be a sandy loam, with a gravelly, and not a clayey subsoil. Soil that is naturally wet must be thoroughly underdrained before being devoted to cabbage growing. The importance of an abundance of well rotted manure can not be too fully impressed upon the mind of any person contemplating the production of excellent cabbages. Much that may be here said concerning the preparation of the soil for growing cabbages applies with equal force to the other vegetables treated in this article. Earliness is one of the leading points to be gained in raising most garden crops. It is the man with the first load of cabbages that gets the best price in the market. There is a great deal of stress to be placed upon the proper selection of seed, but seed is not all. The young plants of the earliest sorts must be fed, and they require this food at an early stage in their growth, when chemical changes are only slowly going on in the soil. In other words, early crops need a far larger amount of manure for their satisfactory growth than crops started in midsummer, when the soil is rapidly yielding up its food elements. Early crops need to grow in cool spring weather, and therefore should be abundantly supplied with food in an available form. Mr. Gregory says in his excellent pamphlet on “How to Grow Cabbages,” “If the farmer desires to make the utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to put most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short; but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year’s crop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, phosphates, or hen manure in the hill.” This view of heavy manuring is confirmed by Mr. Henderson, in his “Farm and Garden Topics,” when he says: “For the early cabbage crop it should always be spread on broadcast, and in quantity not less than one hundred cart loads or seventy-five tons to the acre.… After plowing in the manure, and before the ground is harrowed, our best growers in the vicinity of New York sow from four to five hundred pounds of guano, or bone dust, and then harrow it deeply in.” The best sorts of cabbages for the early crop are: The Jersey Wakefield, which has a head of medium size, close, and of a deep green color; Early York, smaller, but quite early; Early Winningstadt, later, but an excellent sort. Among the best late kinds may be named: Large Flat Dutch, American Drumhead, Drumhead Savoy, and the Red Dutch. The last mentioned is largely used in pickling.
The young plants are obtained from seeds in various ways, determined by the numbers desired. When large quantities are needed for the early crop, the seed is sown in a hot-bed or green-house, about February 1st, for the latitude of New York City, and transplanted into other heated beds near March 1st. In this way fine plants may be obtained by the first of April. Many of the large cabbage growers prepare the soil, mark it in rows, and drop the seed in the hills where the plants are to grow. In this way much labor is saved, and there is the advantage of having several plants in each hill, to guard against losses from cut-worms. Cabbages quickly respond to good culture, and repay in large measure for every stirring of the soil, either with the hoe or the horse cultivator.
The most troublesome insect enemy is probably the Cabbage-worm, which in some localities has destroyed the whole crop. The mature insect deposits its eggs upon the under side of the cabbage leaves. These eggs soon hatch, and the green caterpillars begin their destructive work. No poisonous substances can be applied without endangering the lives of those who may afterward eat the cabbage. Hot water (160 degrees) has proved effective in killing the worms, while not doing injury to the plants. Flea-beetles have done some damage, as also the Cabbage-bug. After the crop is grown the cabbages may be kept by burying them in trenches, heads down. Three facts need to be kept in mind: Repeated freezing and thawing cause rot; excessive moisture also induces decay; and a dry air withers the head and destroys the flavor. About a foot of earth is usually a sufficient covering.
Cabbage in the many forms it is presented upon the table is a most wholesome and agreeable article of food. The farmer’s garden is not complete without a full crop of cabbages. Any heads that are not needed for the family table can be fed with profit to the farm live stock. Poultry in particular, need some green food daily through the winter season, and a cabbage now and then satisfies this natural craving.
Turnips.—The garden turnips belong to the same genus (Brassica) with the cabbages, and are therefore closely related to them. The turnip is supposed to be a native of England and other parts of Europe. It is not known when this plant was first introduced into cultivation, and its wild state is unknown. At the present time it forms one of the prominent crops in all countries adapted to its growth.
The remarks made under the subject of cabbages concerning the free use of manure need not be repeated here. Turnips grow freely upon a rich and mellow soil, kept clean of all weeds. They do not require as fertile a soil as cabbages, and when the earth is very rich, there is sometimes an excessive growth of tops, without a corresponding development of the roots. It is not necessary to say that cabbages are grown for their many thick leaves, while turnips are raised for their roots. Plants as a whole have many places for the storing up of nourishment. Sometimes it is in the stems, as in the potato; in other cases the leaves or roots serve as a store-house of accumulated substance. The plant makes these deposits, to be drawn upon at some future time, either for further growth of the same plant or for the early development of another. The root crops, for example, are naturally plants of two year’s duration. The first season is spent in gathering and storing up substance in a large root. During the following year the starch, sugar, oil, etc., is withdrawn and used in the production of a flower-stalk, upon which the crop of seeds is finally borne, and after this the plant dies.
Turnips are mainly grown as a second crop, following early potatoes, etc. The soil should be made fine and rich before the seed is sown. Rutabagas may be sown from the 15th of June until the 15th of July. Yellow Stone, Aberdeen, White Cowhorn and Strap-leaved Red-top are sown in the order named, and from July 15th to the 1st or 10th of September. The seed is sown in drills, wide enough apart to admit of horse cultivation. The thinning of the plants in the row is of great importance. This work is best done with a hoe, the workman chopping out the turnips and leaving the plants about four to six inches apart in the row. In garden culture the rows need not be so far apart. It is very essential to keep the weeds down and the soil frequently stirred. The harvesting is simple. When growth is completed the roots are pulled, then the tops cut off and the turnips placed in root cellars or pits.
Turnips have an important place in a carefully planned system of farming. The root crop is a means of securing a large amount of most wholesome food for live stock, and at the same time it cleans the soil from weeds and prepares it for the growth of succeeding crops.
The leading insect enemy of young turnip plants is the Turnip-fly. If the seedlings can be protected until they get a good start in life there is no further trouble. Equal parts of wood ashes and land plaster scattered over the young turnip leaves is a good remedy. Air-slaked lime is also employed in the same manner.
The Carrot.—The wild carrot, Daucus Carota,[3] is a native of Europe and has become naturalized in this country to such an extent as to be ranked among the worst of weeds. The cultivated carrot was introduced into England by the Dutch, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth (last half of the sixteenth century), and has since been much improved and quite generally grown. In its native or wild state the root is small, woody, and of very little value as an article of food. All of our so-called “root plants” in the wild state store up only sufficient food in the root to meet the wants of the plant the coming season. This tendency to accumulate has been developed under cultivation, and an excess is stored up, which is appropriated by man. The plant has enjoyed more favorable conditions for growth and been relieved in great part of the struggle for existence that is constantly going on among wild plants. All cultivated plants are living unnatural lives, being favored in various ways, and when they are left to shift for themselves either die or drift back, generation after generation, to the old original form from which the ancestors were forced to depart. No plant is a better illustration of this fact than the carrot. If left for only a few years, the fleshy rooted plants of the garden degenerate into the coarse, woody-rooted weeds of the pasture or hedge-row. We can not pass this point without endeavoring to enforce the importance of keeping up all the most favorable conditions of growth for garden vegetables, and carefully selecting seed of plants that show the least tendency to degenerate.
The plot for growing carrots should be nearly level, otherwise heavy rains may wash the seeds and young plants out of place. The soil should be deep, rich and mellow. Carrots are no exception to the rule that root crops flourish under high culture. When the barnyard fails to supply sufficient manure, it is well to use guano, superphosphates, and other quick acting fertilizers. If the soil is heavy, it is best to sow the seed in ridges made by a plow, thus enabling a horse-weeder to pass between the rows and not injure the young plants coming through the surface. Use seed not over one year old, and it is well to sow some radish seed with it, to come up first and show the rows, thus aiding in the early cultivation of the soil. It is of the greatest importance to keep the weeds down until the carrots get a good start. About six weeks after sowing, that is, the middle of July, thin the plants, leaving them four or five inches apart in the row. The carrots are dug and stored like most root crops. If grown in large quantities, most of the labor of getting the roots out of the soil is performed by horses. Carrots keep well in long piles, six feet wide at the bottom, and of any length. Ventilating holes need to be left at frequent intervals along the ridge of the covered heap. There are several varieties of carrots, some of them being earlier than others, while the size and general shape varies greatly. The Long Orange, Short Horn, Early Horn and White Belgian are among the leading sorts. Market gardeners are now favoring the shorter sorts, the endeavor being to get them turnip-shaped, and thus save much labor in digging the roots.
Beets.—The species Beta vulgaris,[4] the parent of our common beets, is a native of Egypt, and grows wild along the Mediterranean Sea at the present day. The name is from the Celtic word Bett, meaning red, the prevailing color of most beets. This garden vegetable has been generally grown for six hundred years, and during that time has undergone many important changes. Long ago the beet arrived at a state of perfection beyond which it is not easy to pass. The Mangold-Wurzel[5] and Sugar Beets are derived from another species. These are grown very extensively in Europe and are worthy of far more attention by American farmers. The Swiss Chard is another species of the genus Beta, largely grown in some countries for the leaves, which only are used. They are stripped off and used like spinach. The soil best adapted to the growing of beets is a rich, sandy loam, rather light than otherwise. It should be thoroughly pulverized by deep plowing, harrowing, etc., until a fine, mellow bed is prepared for the seeds. The seeds are sown in rows, and the soil should be pressed firmly upon them. For early beets the sowing may be done so soon as the ground can be worked. The late sorts may be sown in July. As soon as the plants are above ground a push-hoe should be passed close to the rows. A few days later the beets need to be thinned to five or six inches in the row. The removed plants make excellent greens. The remaining work until harvest time is keeping the soil free from weeds and loose by frequent hoeing. The rake is better than the hoe, if it is used frequently and no weeds get large. Beets should be harvested before frosts injure them. Handle carefully and store in a place where the temperature is uniformly a few degrees above freezing.
The Egyptian is among the best early sorts; it has a dark blood color, and much resembles a flat turnip in shape. The Long, Smooth, Blood Beet is considered as ranking first for general family and market uses.
The Mangold-Wurzels are coarse beets of large size, grown as a field crop for live stock. The White Sugar is a Mangold, free from much of the red coloring matter of the red sorts. These larger varieties of beets are very extensively grown in Europe for the manufacture of sugar, and it would add to our agricultural wealth if they were more frequently a part of a well planned system of rotation of crops in America. It may not pay for us to make beet sugar, but the use of the roots as a wholesome winter food for stock is profitable.
Onions.—The onion (Allium cepa[6]) has been cultivated from early times, and its native country is unknown. As it is mentioned in sacred writings it is supposed that its home is in the far East. Onions thrive best on old ground, especially if it is a light, sandy loam. The onion field should be nearly level, clear of weeds, and liberally supplied with the best well-rotted manure; guano and superphosphates are excellent for onions. Deep plowing is not necessary. The amount of seed to be used depends upon the kind of onions desired. If they are to be pulled for early market, more seed is required than when they are to attain their full growth.
There are many varieties of onions grown from seeds. The Yellow Danvers, White Portugal and Weathersfield Red are well known sorts, representing the three prevailing colors. Onions are largely grown from sets, that is, bulbs that have ripened while quite small, and when set out grow and form large onions. The small size and early maturity are due to sowing the seed thick. From thirty to forty seeds are sown to each inch of the row. The sets are mature when the leaves begin to wither, and are then removed and dried. In planting the sets they are placed in rows about four inches apart.
The “Potato Onion” or “English Multiplier” is propagated by offsets. An onion of this class, if planted in the spring, will produce a cluster of small ones around it. These small onions will grow into large ones the next season. There are several sorts of onions that bear clusters of small bulbs upon the tops of the flower stalks, in place of seed pods. The “Tree,” “Top,” and “Egyptian” onions are of this class. These bulblets, when planted, produce large bulbs, and these latter, when set out the following season, throw up stalks bearing bulblets.
Onions are ready for harvesting as soon as the leaves droop and become dry. The bulbs should be well cured and placed in a dry, cool, storage room. The crop is sometimes badly injured by smut, especially when onions have been grown upon the same soil for many years. The onion maggot causes some destruction. Guano and unleached ashes, when scattered over the bed, have both proved of value.
The above is only a brief consideration of five of the leading garden vegetables. The first four, namely: Cabbages, turnips, carrots and beets, are to a great extent farm crops, well suited for live stock. The composition of these is as follows:
| DRY MATTER. | ALBUMINOIDS. | FAT. | STARCH, SUGAR, ETC. | ASH. | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cabbage | 14.3 | 2.5 | 0.7 | 7.1 | 1.6 |
| Turnips | 8.5 | 1.0 | 0.15 | 5.8 | 0.8 |
| Carrots | 14.1 | 1.3 | 0.25 | 9.6 | 1.0 |
| Beets | 18.5 | 1.0 | 0.1 | 9.1 | 0.8 |
The turnips contain the least dry substance, and the cabbages are far the richest in albuminoids. The carrot leads in starch, sugar, etc., followed closely by the beets. There is very little poetry in any of the five vegetables here briefly described, though they may enter into the daily food of those who think of lofty things and write in the most elegant style. They are the humble, unobtrusive toilers in the gardens of the world.