Designing.

Designing (actual) is a very different process. A figure or figures of some character must be originated suited to the class of cloth for which it is intended. This is first sketched on plain paper, called a rule, painted (if colour be desired), and having due regard to economy in the weaving, it is transferred to point paper.

This is done by ruling the design in inch squares, and should the reed and pick per inch be equal, 8 × 8 paper is used; if the reed and pick are in proportion to 8 and 6, 8 and 10, 12 and 8, or any other ratio, point paper of that size is used, and the figures will appear in the cloth proportioned as in the rule. The leading figures of the pair of numbers are, in jacquard work, always equal to the number of rows of needles, thus 8 ×—is for a 400 machine, 12 ×—for a 600.