Figured Dhooties.
In no stripe pattern, perhaps, is the dobby more generally used than in these cloths. They differ from the ordinary plain dhootie in having coloured ends woven to a pattern along each selvage, or occasionally 12 or 15 inches from the side also. The patterns at each side are balanced—that is, similar in figure, with the inner part of the figure at one side being also the inner part at the other side. This style of cloth may be described as figure with extra warp, for the plain weave extends under the figure, the figuring ends being “cramped” between the plains, and bound by passing through the plain cloth. In designing for these the plain end may be neglected.
The width of the coloured border is generally about 1 inch, although extending to 4 inches in special cases.
The beams are warped in the manner described for plain dhooties, but only the grey ends are drawn in the healds with any coloured warp which has to weave plain. The ends which form the pattern are drawn through harness composed of separate leashes and mail eyes, each with an elastic thread tied to them. These we will refer to as the leashes. They are placed behind the healds and tied as required to the jacks above; the elastic cords are fixed to a bracket below, so as to draw down the leash after the shedding. Above the mail eye is fixed a cumber board perforated with rows of small holes, and used for keeping the leashes in proper order, so as not to become entangled in the weaving. A clear pattern is a great desideratum in this cloth, consequently it is generally woven face down to prevent spoiling face by drooping ends. In pegging for it the wrong side of the cloth is taken, a pattern of it obtained from the coloured figuring ends only in the usual way, and drafted on the required number of jacks. The leashes are drawn through the cumber board about 6 in each row, but so arranged as to have all those to be tied to one jack drafted together.
The ends are drawn through at the drawer-in’s frame, and the leashes having been previously looped in bunches, each bunch containing those intended for one jack, the beam is ready for the loom.
In gaiting up, the coloured ends often pass over a small special back rest, and the bunches of leashes are tied to their respective jacks. By pegging the dobby in the required order any desired jack or jacks may be raised, and those ends kept above the plain cloth. When the jacks are lowered back the same ends will weave below the plain cloth. The body of the cloth is generally of plain weave, although stripe and check patterns are occasionally introduced.
FIG. 53.