Weight of a Piece.
In calculating the weight of a piece, the warp weight is obtained from the number of ends, based upon the width in the reed. This is multiplied by the sizing length and brought into hanks, from which the weight can be obtained by dividing by the counts. The weft is calculated from the picks to the inch, the reed width, and the actual length of piece. Example—A piece has to be made full dimensions, 36 inches wide, 36 yards long, 16 square (1/4 inch)—i.e., 64 ends per inch and 64 picks; yarns 30’s/36’s, the first number being the warp, sized 25 per cent. In the reed it would stand 38 inches, about six per cent. being allowed for contraction. Of course, if the yarn were coarser, the pick heavier, and the reed finer, more than this would be allowed. Supposing that a 60’s reed (Stockport) is used, the number of ends would be 38 × 60 = 2280; the length of warp, say 38 yards, allowing six per cent.—then
(2280 × 38)/840 = 103-1/7 hanks,
Divided by 30’s gives 3lb. 7oz.
Weft.—The weft, 37-1/2 inches wide, 64 picks; length of piece, 36 yards.
(37-1/2 × 64 x 36)/(840 × 36’s) = 2lb. 13-3/4oz.
37-1/2 × 64 gives the number of inches of weft in one inch of cloth, or, what is the same, yards of weft in one yard of cloth.
Size.—
3lb. 7oz. = 55oz.
25 per cent. on 55 =
55 × 25 ÷ 100 = 13-3/4oz.
The weight of the piece is then—
Twist 3 : 7
Size 13-3/4
——————————
4 : 4-3/4
Weft 2 : 13-3/4
—————
7 : 2-1/2
When the piece is measured by the long stick, about half an inch more to the yard must be reckoned—e.g., 38-inch: 14/14, 37-1/2 yards L.S., 38’s weft, to be 8-1/4lb. in weight; this would be perhaps 38-1/4 yards long S.S.
Weft.—
(40 × 56 × 38-1/4)/(840 × 38) = 2 : 10-3/4
Leaving 5: 9-1/4 for twist and size, say of the latter 100 per cent., then 2: 12-1/2 would be twist—
(40 × 52 × 41)/840 = 101-1/2 hanks
required to be found in 2: 12-1/2 of yarn; then if 2: 12-1/2 = 101-1/2 hank:: 1lb. equals 36’s twist about.
This cloth would then be composed of—
Warp2 : 12-1/4
Size 2 : 13
Weft2 : 10-3/4
————
8 : 4
For quoting purposes the weight of the yarn is taken at the market price, say that of the cloth No. 1—
lb. oz.
3 7 of 30’s T at 8d. = 2 : 3-1/2
2 13-3/4 of 36’s W at 8d. = 1 : 11
Weaving Price = 9-1/2
To this is added a sum sufficient to cover cost—winding, warping, sizing, power, miscellaneous expenses, waste (which sum varies considerably, and depends mainly upon the situation of the producers as regards the amount at which he can produce this cloth). Often, for lightly-sized goods, the weaving price is doubled, making this piece cost 5s. 9-1/2d. Should it be a dhootie, then an addition is made for coloured yarns for heading and border, and if a figured cloth extras are included for increased cost of production.
The examples given are supposititious ones, for, as has been said, the exact details of weight and quoting prices are decided purely by local or temporary position, and fixed data cannot be given as a standard for every case.