Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them

by Cora Moore

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS

One secret of the French cook's superiority to the American in preparing fish is that the former has almost a congenital knowledge of his subject. To him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates sharply as to species, tempering his treatment to varied requirements.

Roughly, there are two classes of fish: those which have dark flesh or flesh with a pinkish tone which is streaked with fat, and those which have white, firm flesh and are the more digestible. Best known in the first class are shad, butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel and sturgeon, and in the second, cod, halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea bass, pompano, weakfish and perch.

One matter-of-course rule is that no fish of whatever kind shall be allowed to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly fresh. To be sure of this see that the gills are bright and shining and the flesh firm, not readily separating from the bones. That settled, you have an almost endless choice of ways of cooking.

Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, baked, planked, creamed, steamed, cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, but of all these ways none produces quite the universally satisfactory results with a sizable fish that planking does, and planking is not more difficult or expensive than other methods.

All that is required in the way of accoutrements is a half-inch-thick hardwood board which is heated in advance in the oven when planked fish is to figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly cleaned the fish, removed its head and tail, split it up the back half through the bone so that it will open out flat, brush it with butter and season with pepper and salt, place it skin-side down on the board.

Put it in the oven and when it is done, which can be easily ascertained by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being American, may garnish the board with mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the board back in the oven till the potatoes are browned and serve. The French, on taking the cooked fish from the oven, merely brush it with a little oil or melted butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, sprinkle a few bits of parsley about, and send the fish thus to the table.

Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., are best fried in deep fat or its substitute, first being dipped in egg and rolled in fine cracker or breadcrumbs, then served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed potatoes or boiled new ones, and a crisp salad.

This Sauce Mousseline is made by beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding a cupful of top milk, butter the size of a walnut and pepper and salt, then stirring over the fire till it begins to thicken. When of the proper consistency, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is ready for the table.

A tart sauce for boiled fish that is much favored in the south of France but which, if it has ever crossed the water, has kept its arrival very quiet, is quite simply made and will be much liked as a decided change. To make it dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered mustard in a half cupful of fish stock and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar by preference, though other vinegar will do. Let this come to a boil, add two or three slices of lemon and boil a few minutes longer. Take from the fire and add two eggs that have been beaten with a teaspoonful of water. Season with salt and pepper and heat again but do not allow to boil.