The Woodwork

is as follows:

Five cross-bars of rock-maple ([Figs. 83], [85], and [91]). All the rest is of white cedar, taken from the heart. The sap-wood absorbs water, and would make the canoe too heavy, so it is rejected. The wood requires to be straight and clear, and it is best to use perfectly green wood for the ribs.

Two strips 16½ feet long, 1½ inch square, tapering toward either end, the ends being notched ([Fig. 83] A) is a section of the 16½ foot strip. Each strip is mortised for the cross-bars (see [Fig. 85]). The lower outside edge is bevelled off to receive the ends of the ribs.

The dimensions of the cross-bars ([Fig. 85]) are 12 x 2 x ½ inch, 22½ x 2 x ¾ inch, and 30 x 2 x ⁷/₈ inch. The cross-bars are placed in position, and the ends of the gunwales are tied with spruce roots after being nailed together to prevent splitting. Each bar is held in place by a peg of hard wood.

Figs. 83 and 83½.—Showing section of canoe amidship and section and shape of gunwale and top view.

Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this image, click [here].

For stitching and wrapping, long, slender roots of spruce, or sometimes of elm, are peeled and split in two. Black ash splits are rarely used except for repairing ([Figs. 86], [87], [88]).

Next we need (B, [Fig. 83]) two strips 1 or 1¼ inch by ½ inch, a little over 19 feet long, to go outside of gunwales, and (C, [Fig. 83]) two top strips, same length, 2 inches wide in middle, tapering to 1 inch at either end, 1½ inch thick.

Details of sticking and framework of canoe.

[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this image, click [here].]