DUNFERMLINE ABBEY, Fifeshire.
Situated north of the Forth, or “Scots Water,” in the heart of the old Pictish kingdom, Dunfermline was from an early period occupied as a secure and pleasant site by the kings of Scotland. Here Malcolm Canmore had his tower (of which a few crumbling remains still survive), and here he entertained the royal fugitives from England, and married the Princess Margaret, one of these refugees, in 1070.
The King and Queen ended their lives in 1093, within a few days of each other—the first at the siege of Alnwick, and the other in Edinburgh Castle.
According to Turgot, her confessor and biographer, Queen Margaret, immediately after her marriage, founded a church “in that place where the nuptials were celebrated.” This church was dedicated to the Holy Trinity in 1074. It became the place of royal sepulture, and Queen Margaret was buried there a few days after her death. From that time onwards there are continuous references to grants to the Church of the Holy Trinity, and to interments of royal personages therein.
As no notice has been preserved of the erection of any new church till the building of the choir in the first quarter of the thirteenth century, it has been supposed that the nave of the existing structure (which is in the Norman style) may have been the church founded and erected by Queen Margaret. But the style of the building forbids this supposition. None of the English cathedrals were founded till the end of the eleventh century, and few were carried out till the expiry of the first quarter of the twelfth century. Scotland would certainly not be in advance of England in its style of architecture, and we know that little, if any, Norman work was executed in this country till the days of David I. Professor Innes is, therefore, no doubt right when he says—“The original church of Canmore, perhaps not of stone, must have been replaced by a new edifice when it was dedicated in the reign of David I.”[156] The style of the structure is early Norman, and would naturally follow the erection of Durham Cathedral, which took place about twenty-five years earlier.
Probably the original church of Malcolm stood where the new choir was afterwards erected, and David I. added the Norman nave to it. The nature of the site seems to favour this view, as the ground to the west slopes rapidly away, and scarcely allows room for the west end of the nave; while the conventual buildings, for want of suitable space, have had to be carried with an archway over a public street.
It is believed that Alexander I. contemplated the erection of the church into an abbey, and had possibly made arrangements for the introduction of monks. At any rate, in the year of the accession of his successor, David I. (1124), canons of the Order of St. Augustine were brought from Canterbury and established at Dunfermline.
It was, no doubt, soon after that event that David I. carried out extensive works at the new monastery, and probably added the Norman nave to the then existing church of his parents, Margaret and Malcolm. The monastery continued to flourish, and was largely endowed. The early church was soon found to be too small, and it was resolved to rebuild it, so as to form a new choir and transept worthy of the dignity and importance of the convent. This was accordingly carried out between 1216 and 1226, when the choir, with its aisles, the transept, and the presbytery were erected. Abbot Patrick, who had formerly been Dean
Fig. 198.—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan.
and Prior of Canterbury, presided at Dunfermline during the whole of the above time. After him came Abbot William (II.), whom we find appealing to Pope Honorius III. for certain patronages and presentations on account of the great expense incurred during the last ten years in carrying on the extended fabric, whereby the monastery had been greatly impoverished. Again, in 1231, a similar appeal was made to Pope Gregory IX., both on account of the expenses of the church,
Fig. 199.—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of Nave.
and also because the number of canons had been increased from thirty to fifty.
In 1249 a dispute arose regarding the consecration of the new choir, but Honorius IV. decided that a new consecration was not necessary, as the consecrated walls of the older part (the nave) continued in use. In the same year Queen Margaret was canonised, and in 1250 her body was transferred from the old church to the new Lady Chapel, in presence of all the chief men in the kingdom. “The translation of the saintly foundress was probably arranged,” says Professor Innes, “to give solemnity to the opening of the new church.”[157] Soon after this the abbey is described by Matthew of Westminster, who probably saw it, as of vast extent, and containing such magnificent palaces that three kings, with their trains, might be accommodated within its walls.
“This sumptuous pile was destroyed and levelled with the ground by the soldiers of Edward in 1303, excepting only the church and a few dwellings for the monks.”[158]
The Exchequer Rolls inform us of the great expense sometimes incurred in connection with the tombs of the illustrious persons buried in the abbey.[159]
The monastic buildings were, as we have seen, on a very magnificent scale; but of the church, and all the splendid structures connected with the abbey, there now only remain ([Fig. 198]) the Norman nave, the base of the Lady Chapel, and part of the refectory and kitchen.
Fig. 200.—Nave Piers and Wall Responds.
The nave ([Fig. 199]), which is wonderfully well preserved, measures about 106 feet long inside, by about 55 feet wide between the aisle walls. The piers are circular, and measure 4 feet 4½ inches in diameter. The plan of these, with that of the wall responds ([Fig. 200]), indicates that the original intention (which was carried out) was to groin the aisles. The two eastern bays between the eastern pillars are built up with solid masonry, and only a portion of the arches is seen. The original respond at the east gable wall, against which these arches rested, has long since disappeared, in connection with the erection of the later church.
The two western bays, and the triforium arches above them (one on each side), have also been filled up with solid building in order to strengthen the western towers. The southern of these arches is shown in Fig. 201. The pillars which support the west towers are of greater size than the others, and are of a different section. One of the pillars and the corresponding arch of the north arcade are of late Gothic work, and may be part of the repairs ordered by the Privy Council in 1563,[160] or of the work done in 1594, under the direction of William Schaw, Master of Works, who at that time built the north-west tower and steeple
Fig. 201.—Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West End of Nave.
Fig. 202.—Dunfermline Abbey. West End.
Fig. 203.—Dunfermline Abbey. North Porch.
([Fig. 202]), as well as the porch on the north side of the nave ([Fig. 203]). At the same time, also, certain great buttresses ([Fig. 204]) were built against the outer walls, which are now conspicuous features of the structure.
The great western doorway of the church ([Fig. 205]) remains unaltered, and is a good example of Norman work. It consists of five orders, having round and octagonal shafts alternately, chiefly with cushion caps, but some are ornamented with scrolls ([Fig. 206]). The abacus is heavy, and is carved with sunk diapers. The orders are continued round the arches, and contain chevron ornaments (much decayed), rosettes, and diapers. The outer order contains large heads and geometric figures in the alternate voussoirs, an arrangement similar to that at Dalmeny and Whithorn, where also the geometric figures resemble those adopted here. The original north doorway ([Fig. 207]), which is partly concealed by Schaw’s porch, is similar in design, with the addition of an arcade above the arch (see [Fig. 203.]), somewhat resembling, but plainer than that over the doorway of Dalmeny Church, on the south side of the Forth. The south doorway of the church on the opposite side from the porch is a late work. There appears to have been another south doorway at the east end of the nave, but it is now built up. The whole of the aisle walls are arcaded in the interior ([Fig. 208]) up to the height of the window sills, but the arcade has been partly cut away for monuments.
The general design of the nave recalls that of Durham Cathedral, at the founding of which King Malcolm Canmore was present. The same circular piers, with zig-zag ornaments and massive cushion caps, and also clustered piers, occur in each ([Fig. 209]), and the small circular bases, resting on great square plinths, are common to both (see also p. 37, [Fig. 18.]). The arches between the main piers ([Fig. 210]) consist of bold mouldings, with the label ornament running round the outer moulding. The triforium at Dunfermline is extremely simple ([Fig. 211]), consisting of a single opening with plain jambs and round arch, with a large roll and fillet in the centre of the thickness of the wall, supported on single attached shafts with cushion caps. The clerestory is also very simple. It contains one window in each bay, with plain recessed arch, supported on single shafts with cushion caps. The aisles ([Fig. 212]) are vaulted and groined. The transverse arches are flat, with a roll on each side, and the diagonal groins spring from the detached shafts of the responds (see [Fig. 208.]). The windows of the aisles (see [Fig. 209.]) are single round-headed lights, having plain sconsions with one recessed shaft on each side, and the arch enriched with chevron mouldings. Externally ([Fig. 213]) they are of similar design.
[Fig. 208] shows the wall shafting and springing of the ribs in the aisles, and the mouldings of the nave arcade, with the arcading beneath the
Fig. 204.—Dunfermline Abbey. Part of North Side.
Fig. 205.—Dunfermline Abbey. Western Doorway.
windows. It also shows the original aisle windows on the inside, while [Fig. 213] shows their appearance on the exterior. It will be observed in the latter that there is the same sunk or label ornament on the drip-stone as there is over the arches of the main arcade. Above the aisle window (see the same Fig.) are the lights of the triforium gallery. These have triangular heads, formed by two stones. They appear to have been rounded or moulded on the edge, and spring from sunk shafts having carved capitals. They are now very much decayed, and have all been restored except two on the north side.
Judging from the existence of the large west end pillars already referred to, it was evidently intended from the beginning to have two western towers. The northern one
Fig. 206.—Dunfermline Abbey. From North Side of Western Doorway.
was destroyed to a considerable extent at the Reformation,[161] along with the upper part of the adjoining gable. In its present state it was designed and built by William Schaw, and is a very effective example of the architecture of his time (see Figs. 202 and 204). The bold corbelling at the top of the tower recalls the somewhat similar treatment of the towers of St. Machar’s, Aberdeen, and other examples derived from domestic architecture. The south-west tower appears to have escaped the fury of the Reformers, and to have remained intact, although in a ruinous state, till 1807, when it fell, having been struck by lightning. Three years later the present top was put on the old walls. The Lady Chapel at the east end, built to receive Queen Margaret’s shrine, is now reduced to a small fragment (see Plan), consisting of part of the south and east walls, which remain to the height of about 2 or 3 feet. It has been a small structure of about 26 feet 9 inches by 22 feet, of delicate and refined first pointed work, as is apparent from the bases of the wall arcading and the edge of the surrounding seat, enriched with nail-head ornaments, which still exist ([Fig. 214]). The Lady Chapel appears from an old view[162] to have been a low structure, reaching only to the sill of the great east window of the choir, and it was evidently vaulted in two compartments.
Of the choir of the thirteenth century (shown on the Ground Plan, see [Fig. 198.]) not a single stone exists, having been removed to make room for a modern church; but before the latter was built (begun in 1818), considerable remains of the choir and apparently the whole of the foundations were standing. These ruins were measured and drawn by Mr. J. Baine, C.E., Edinburgh, in 1790, and by the Rev. Mr. Syme in 1805. From their
Fig. 207.—Dunfermline Abbey. Northern Doorway.
labours the author of the Annals (Mr. E. Henderson) made a complete plan of the church in 1827, and from it the ground plan of the choir now
Fig. 208.—Dunfermline Abbey. Aisle.
given has been filled in.[163] The choir was a prolongation of the present nave, having transepts, and also a great aisle on the north side, the walls of which latter remained till this century. There was a lofty central tower
Fig. 209.—Dunfermline Abbey. View of Nave looking West.
of two stories, with three windows in each story facing the four sides. Altogether this church must have been a magnificent structure, and was adorned with many altars and shrines. It was to that part of the church specially that the zeal of the Reforming party was directed, when upon the 28th March 1560, “the wholl lordis and barnis that were on thys syde of Forth, passed to Stirling, and be the way kest doun the Abbey of Dunfermling.”—(Lindsay, Chronicle of Scotland, Vol. II. p. 555.)
The interior length of the whole church from the west doorway to the Lady Chapel at the east end is 268 feet 6 inches, and the length of the exterior is 280 feet.
Fig. 210.—Dunfermline Abbey. Details.
The edifice occupies a lofty and commanding situation, from which the ground falls away on the west and south sides. The monastic buildings stood on the south side of the nave at a considerably lower level than the church. Of these structures, as is shown by the dark walls on the Plan, considerable remains still exist. The ground between the dark walls and the church has, in recent years, been levelled up, the outer portions of the monastic buildings serving as retaining walls. With the exception of these outer walls, the site of the monastery is thus buried. The refectory stood on the south side of the cloister, and the whole length and height of its south and west walls still exist. There is also a small portion of the return of its north wall, adjoining the west gable wall. Indications of its east wall also exist, thus enabling its dimensions to be fixed at 103 feet in length by 34 feet in width. The south wall ([Fig. 215]) was divided into seven bays, and in six of these there are lofty two-light windows ([Fig. 216]). The eastern bay is occupied by the pulpit or reading-place, from which one of the brethren read aloud during meals. This place, which occupies the whole of one bay, is about 15 feet long, and is corbelled outwards on a cusped arch (see [Fig. 215.]) about 4 feet 6 inches wide. It is lighted from the outside by two windows, which have mullions and tracery, still entire, flush with the face of the wall. On the side next the hall there are two lofty openings.
Adjoining the refectory on the south-west is a large tower, beneath which runs a public road, called St. Catherine’s Wynd, through a “pend” or archway, whence the building is called the “Pend Tower.” The outside of the refectory and “Pend Tower” (see [Fig. 216.]) is very
Fig. 211.—Dunfermline Abbey. Triforium and Clerestory.
imposing, with the simple row of lofty buttresses and windows along the top. The west gable wall of the refectory ([Fig. 217]) is still entire, and has a large window of seven lights. The tracery of this
Fig. 212.—Dunfermline Abbey. North Aisle.
window is in good preservation ([Fig. 218]), and is one of the most favourable examples of a kind of tracery developed in Scotland during the fifteenth century. At the north-west corner of the refectory is the staircase tower (see [Fig. 217.]), which leads down to the offices below, and upwards to the refectory roof, over which access was obtained to the upper
Fig. 213.—Dunfermline Abbey. Exterior of Aisle and Clerestory Windows.
story of the “Pend Tower.” In the north wall of the refectory, near the west end, are the remains of a flue, which may have belonged to a fireplace. The “Pend Tower” is still entire, wanting only the cape house and roof. It served as a connecting passage between the abbey buildings and the royal palace beyond. A door led from the refectory (see Plan, [Fig. 219.]) by a passage into a groined chamber, and from thence into a room in the palace situated over the kitchen. The kitchen is a lofty room, now roofless, having remains of large fireplaces and some curious recesses. Below the kitchen, but entering from another part of the palace, there is a large vaulted apartment with central pillars. ([Fig. 220.]) These pillars were continued up through the kitchen, and probably to the room, now gone, which stood over the kitchen. Another arched passage led from this apartment through below St. Catherine’s Wynd and up to the monastery. The building known as the palace was, doubtless, intimately connected with the monastery, and the kitchen shown on the plan may have been used in connection with both.
Returning to the vaulted chamber in the “Pend Tower,” a long narrow vaulted passage leads from it along the refectory wall for the length of two bays. It is vaulted across from side to side for the length of the first bay, and then in the second bay one half-arch springs at right
Fig. 214.—Dunfermline Abbey. The Lady Chapel.
angles to the first arch from the end of the passage to meet the cross vault. This probably indicates that steps lead down in the passage to the level of the rooms below the refectory. But the place cannot be properly seen, being chocked full with the grass and rubbish thrown in from the churchyard. This passage is a very effective feature, as seen from the outside. It is supported on arches thrown from buttress to buttress, and is covered with a stone roof above (see [Fig. 216.]).
Within the “Pend Tower,” on the first floor, there is a five-sided room with a fireplace, which appears to have been a sort of guard room. It is vaulted, and has ribs irregularly placed, as shown on plan. This part of the ruins is now a receptacle for rubbish, and is almost blocked up. Over this, and entering from the circular stair adjoining, is the room shown in Fig. 221. It is groin vaulted, and had a fireplace of good design. To save this “Pend Tower,” with its fine vaulted apartments,
Fig. 215.—Dunfermline Abbey. South Wall of Refectory.
a proper roof ought to be placed over it. Beneath the tower is the “Pend” or archway uniting St. Catherine’s Wynd and Monastery Street.
Fig. 216.—Dunfermline Abbey. The “Pend Tower” and part of Refectory.
The above passage and staircase are additions made, without doubt, at the time when the tower was built. This is clearly seen in Fig. 216. From this drawing it is obvious that the arches were thrown between the already existing buttresses of the refectory, and in the second bay the arch is at a low level to permit of the descending stair already referred to. The builders have just managed to save a very beautiful doorway
Fig. 217.—Dunfermline Abbey. West End of Refectory.
belonging to the earlier building, now hardly seen in the shadow of the overhanging addition.
To the east of the refectory there is a narrow chamber with the remains of a two-light window in the south wall, and projecting southwards from this is the lower part of the wall of the fratery reaching as high as the floor of the refectory. On the east side of the fratery extends
Fig. 218.—Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West Window of Refectory.
the south wall of a building called, on the plan, the Bailery Prison. These fragmentary structures exhaust the remains of the monastic
Fig. 219.—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of “Pend Tower,” &c.
buildings. The chapterhouse, and the buildings on the east side of the cloister (shown in outline on the plan), are taken from the old plan already referred to, but their accuracy cannot be guaranteed.
As already mentioned, the monastery was burned by Edward I. in 1303-4; but, according to Tytler,[164] the church escaped. Froissart, however, narrates that in 1385 Richard II. burned the abbey and town. It is impossible to say to what extent these devastations were carried, but we doubt if any of the existing monastic buildings belong to an earlier date than that last mentioned. Perhaps the south wall may be older, and has been restored. The tracery of the refectory west window belongs to the end of the fifteenth century. The “Pend Tower” was built after the refectory was finished, as it abuts against the westmost buttress (as seen in [Fig. 216.]) in a way it would not have done had the whole been of one construction; also, the corner buttress has been cut away, as may be seen at the right-hand side of Fig. 221.
William Schaw, Master of Works, besides the buildings already referred to, erected, in 1594, certain of the immense buttresses which form such conspicuous features in all the views of the abbey. He likewise built, and doubtless designed, the Queen’s House, and the Bailie and Constabulary House, shown in the plan. In connection with the latter houses, there are considerable remains of buildings still existing (as shown on Plan) to the north-west of the abbey, and there seems every probability that they formed part of the structures of the abbey and of the Queen’s House. They are extremely picturesque as seen from the low ground to the west. ([Fig. 222.]) The lofty house on the right hand dates probably
Fig. 220.—Dunfermline Abbey. Room below Kitchen.
from the end of the seventeenth century, and is a fine example of its period. The adjoining buildings are considerably earlier, and in the lower parts, where they are buttressed, they are probably of pre-Reformation times. The upper portions are somewhat later, and are very likely part of the work of Schaw. The porch to the latter buildings is on the other side, and is quaint and well known from being seen from the church. William Schaw died in 1602, and was buried in the nave, where the monument to his memory ([Fig. 223]) was erected by order of Queen Anne.
Fig. 221.—Dunfermline Abbey.
The palace, which was intimately connected with the abbey, has been described elsewhere.[165]
Fig. 222.—Dunfermline Abbey. Old Buildings to North-West of Church.
Fig. 223.—Dunfermline Abbey. Monument to William Schaw.