The ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland from the earliest Christian times to the seventeenth century; vol. 3/3

by David MacGibbon; Thomas Ross

CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES.

The ecclesiastical architecture of the mediæval period terminated at the introduction of the Reformation in 1560, but during the latter half of the sixteenth and the greater part of the seventeenth century a number of churches were erected which show some attempt to maintain or revive the style of earlier times. This tendency was doubtless encouraged by the strenuous effort which was made, under James I. and Charles I. and II., to establish the Episcopal forms of Church government and service in Scotland. These forms being contrary to the desire of the Presbyterians, who comprised the great body of the people, gave rise to two opposing parties. The party favourable to the Episcopal form of religion supported the erection of churches and the maintenance of the worship as nearly as possible after the old model, while the Presbyterians and Puritans discouraged everything which savoured of the ancient faith, whether in buildings or services. The result was that during the century which followed the Reformation there were two styles of ecclesiastical structures erected in the country, one style showing some reverence for the house of God in its form and decoration, and in the appropriateness of the divine service; while the other seemed to be designed, both in its buildings and forms of worship, to be as far removed as possible from any outward or visible sign of inward sweetness or grace.

It is proposed to conclude this work with some examples of the different styles of churches erected during the above period.

A number of specimens have already been given in a former work.[221]

These churches were introduced into a work on the domestic architecture of the country, in order to illustrate the influence of the domestic style on the ecclesiastical architecture of this period. Many of these edifices were, therefore, only partially illustrated, and it has been thought desirable to treat some of them more fully in this book, so as to complete the illustration and description of their architecture.

The examples which are now given will amply illustrate the remaining specimens which still survive of this somewhat heterogeneous epoch.

Most of the churches of the seventeenth century are either very poor imitations of Gothic work or tasteless examples of plain walls, while a few contain the germs of what might have been wrought into a picturesque style, founded on the domestic architecture of the period. Such, for example, are the churches of Stirling (west end), Anstruther Easter, and Pittenweem.

Several of the monuments of the period are also given.

The following examples are arranged in alphabetical order.

ABERDOUR, Aberdeenshire.

A village about eight miles west of Fraserburgh. In the Book of Deer it is written, “Columcille and Drostan son of Cosgrach his pupil came

Fig. 1499.—Aberdour. Plan.

from I as God had shown to them unto Abbordo-boir and Bede the Pict was mormaer of Buchan before them, and it was he that gave them that

Fig. 1500.—Aberdour. View from South-West.

Fig. 1501.

Aberdour.

Jamb of Arch to Aisle.

town in freedom for ever from Mormaer and tosech.” In these words a scribe, writing in the eleventh or twelfth century, tells of the planting of Christianity in the North about A.D. 580. It is probable that the clerics tarried at Aberdour for a time, and founded a monastery on the land which had been granted to them.[222] In later times the parish church was dedicated to St. Drostan, and in 1178 and 1318 there are notices of its erection into a prebend of St. Machar’s Cathedral.[223] In 1557 there is a mandate

Fig. 1502.—Aberdour. Tomb in North Wall.

by William, Bishop of Aberdeen, for the institution of Master Robert Carnegy in the canonry and prebend of the Rectory of Aberdour. Again, in 1599, there is a seisin of Robert Ramsay in the kirk lands and glebe with the vicar’s manse of Aberdour. The existing ruins (Fig. [1499]) are not earlier than the sixteenth century, and consist of a nave 70 feet long by 21 feet 3 inches wide, and a south aisle 30 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 4 inches wide, all outside measure. The

Fig. 1503.—Aberdour.

Font.

walls (Fig. [1500]) are still tolerably entire, but are fast crumbling away. The west end of the nave has been partitioned off into two burial vaults, as also is the aisle. The arch between the nave and aisle is round, with an impost moulding (Fig. [1501]) at the springing of the arch. The arch and jambs are chamfered, the chamfer terminating on a splayed base. In the north wall of the nave is the round arched mural tomb shown in Fig. [1502].

The font is still in existence. It is quite plain and octagonal, being 2 feet in diameter by about 2 feet 2 inches high. After the abandonment of the church the font appears to have been built into the wall, and to have had a sundial carved on its lower end (Fig. [1503]).

ANSTRUTHER, EASTER AND WESTER, Fifeshire.

These adjacent towns form one of the very interesting group of ancient seaports and places of commerce on the northern shore of the Frith of Forth. Anstruther is divided into two portions by the little river Dreel, which formed the harbour of Anstruther Wester, while Easter Anstruther extends in a wide crescent along the coast, and has a larger harbour of its own.

Anstruther Wester belonged to the Priory of Pittenweem, and the parish church was dedicated to St. Nicolas. The town obtained a charter from the monastery in 1549, and another in 1554.[224] The church is now modernised, but the old tower (Fig. [1504]) is a fair specimen of the keep-like structures so often erected in connection with Scottish churches in the sixteenth century.

Fig. 1504.—Anstruther Wester.

Anstruther Easter was, before the Reformation, in the parish of Kilrenny, and was disjoined from it by the General Assembly, with the consent of the bailies and council of the town, in 1639. In 1640 Anstruther Easter was erected into a separate parish, and the reason assigned in the Act was “the Burgh being a part of the parish of Kilrenny a mile distant of deep evil way in winter and rainy times.”[225]

A proposal to build a church at Anstruther Easter had thus been in contemplation for some time, and in 1636 an agreement was come to regarding it between Mr. Colin Adams, the first minister of the parish, and the bailies and council. The new church was erected, and “ten years later a steeple was added after a Dutch model.”[226]

The arrangement of the Plan (Fig. [1505]) and the design of the tower seem, however, to contradict the latter statement. The debased but picturesque architecture of the tower (Fig. [1506]) so strongly resembles the other Scottish church towers of the period as to render its origin beyond dispute. It combines the ornamental treatment of the upper part with the plain features of the lower portion, so usual in the castles of the time; and the classic balustrade and the gabled termination of the staircase recall similar domestic features of Scottish castellated architecture very common in the seventeenth century, both in churches and houses.

Fig. 1505.—Anstruther Easter. Plan.

The church measures, externally, 92 feet in length by 41 feet in breadth. The entrance doorway leads into a simple barrel-vaulted passage 9 feet wide. This originally opened directly into the body of the church, having a staircase to the gallery on the south side and a small room or vestry on the north side. The body of the church is of the usual oblong form (Fig. [1507]) and is lighted with windows, which, from their mullions and round arches, retain a slightly ecclesiastical appearance. This is chiefly striking in the large east window. There were originally two doorways in the south wall, but one has been built up.

Altogether, this church, the date of which is known, forms a complete and characteristic example of the Scottish ecclesiastical architecture of the earlier part of the seventeenth century.[227]

Fig. 1506.—Anstruther Easter. West End and Tower.

Fig. 1507.—Anstruther Easter. View from South-East.

ST. MARY’S PARISH CHURCH, Auchterhouse, Forfarshire.

Fig. 1508.—St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse.

Chancel Arch.

The village of Kirkton or Auchterhouse is situated about five miles north of Dundee.

Fig. 1509.—St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse.

Section of Chancel Arch Mouldings.

Fig. 1511.—St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse.

Jamb of Doorway in Chancel.

The old church consists of a nave and chancel, with a square west tower. The nave is about 56 feet long by 33 feet wide, and the chancel is about 27 feet long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The date (1630)

Fig. 1510.—St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse.

South Doorway in Chancel.

is carved on the east gable, but the building undoubtedly is, in part at least, of older date. There are a great many stones, pieces of window tracery, and other carved work lying about the churchyard, which show that there was a former building, probably of fifteenth century work, here, which was doubtless in part taken down and rebuilt in the seventeenth century. The chancel arch (Fig. [1508]) belongs to this earlier church. It is 12 feet 3 inches wide and is acutely pointed; the wall is about 3 feet 2 inches thick. The mouldings of the arch consist of double hollows, as shown on section (Fig. [1509]), with a cap moulding of the form shown on the same figure.

Fig. 1512.—St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. South Doorway.

The south doorway in the chancel (Fig. [1510]) also belongs to the earlier church. The moulded jambs (Fig. [1511]) abut against a square lintel, somewhat in the same manner as occurs in one of the windows in the tower at South Queensferry. The jambs rise at the base from a splay sloping inwards. The doorway to the nave (Fig. [1512]) is more classic in design, and is of the seventeenth century. No other features of the church, except its sundials (see The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, Vol. V.), call for special notice.

AYTOUN CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The town of Aytoun (formerly written Eytun) stands on the river Eye, about seven miles north from Berwick-on-Tweed, and half a mile from the railway station.

The old church is situated in an open burial-ground, in connection with which a new church was erected some years ago. The old building appears, from the remains of its ivy-covered walls, to have been of considerable extent, but no details can now be made out. The only portion which remains in a tolerable state of preservation appears to have formed a south aisle or wing.

Fig. 1513.—Aytoun Church.

There is a plain segmental headed doorway in the east side, and a large circular headed window in the south end (Fig. [1513]). The latter is divided by two mullions into three lights, each finished at the top with a round-arched head. The window has a transom in the centre. It is evident from the nature of the design and the form of the mouldings that the window is of late date, probably of the end of the sixteenth century.

Aytoun was granted by the Scottish Edgar to St. Cuthbert’s Monks, and thus became the property of the Priory of Coldingham, and shared its fate.

BALLINGRY CHURCH, Fifeshire.

The present church of Ballingry is a modern structure built in 1831. It stands on the site of a pre-Reformation edifice, which has entirely disappeared. The window shown in Fig. [1514] clearly belongs to the seventeenth century, being part of a north aisle, which was evidently built about that time. The window is the only feature of interest in the

Fig. 1514.—Ballingry Church. Window in North Aisle.

building, and it is a good example of the Renaissance style, modified by the grafting on to it of Gothic features.

BLAIR CHURCH,[228] Blair-Atholl, Perthshire.

The walls of this old church (Fig. [1515]) still stand within the grounds of Blair Castle, the seat of the Duke of Atholl, and about five minutes’ walk from the Castle. The building is roofless and the walls are almost complete, but they have been much slapped and altered to make the place suitable for Presbyterian worship.

The masonry is rubble work, built with stones gathered off the hills. The doors and windows have hewn jambs and lintels of freestone, all square-headed and splayed. A gravestone, dated 1579, has been built in the inside of the north wall. The chief interest of the ruin arises from its containing the vault in which Claverhouse is buried. A tablet on the inner face of the south wall of the church, west of the aisle which contains the vault, bears the following inscription:—

Fig. 1515.—Blair Church. Plan.

Within this vault beneath
Are interred the remains of
John Graham of Claverhouse
Viscount Dundee
Who fell at the Battle of Killiecrankie
27 July 1689, aged 46
This memorial is placed here by
John, 7th Duke of Atholl, K.T.
1889

ST. BRANDAN’S, Boyndie, Banffshire.

The ruined Church of Boyndie or Inverboyndie stands on a slight elevation near the mouth of the small river of the same name, about two miles west from the town of Banff. The parish was formerly conjoined with Banff till 1634, when it was erected into a separate parish. The church is of ancient foundation, and was granted in 1211-14, along with that of Banff, to the monks of Arbroath.

The old church stands in the churchyard, which is still used. It was abandoned in 1773, when a new church was built. Since that time it has fallen into complete decay, so much so that the plan cannot now be properly distinguished. The only portions still preserved in tolerable condition are the west wall and belfry (Fig. [1516]). These do not appear to be of great age. The wall contains the entrance doorway of the church. It has a round arch and jambs with a small splay, such as was common in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The top of the gable has a small belfry, which has latterly occupied the position of a former one, which was much larger. The older belfry must have been of considerable size, as is apparent from the large corbels which carried it, and which project boldly from both sides of the wall. These were arranged so as to carry an octagonal erection, which must have had a very picturesque effect.

Fig. 1516.—St. Brandan’s, Boyndie.

They are evidently copied from the domestic architecture of the period. This structure seems to belong to the seventeenth century.

ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, Cupar, Fifeshire.

The old Church of Cupar having become decayed, the Prior of St. Andrews, in 1415, erected a new church on a new site in the town. But in 1785 this church was also found to be in a decayed condition, and was rebuilt on the same site as that of the fifteenth century. Part of the old structure at the north-west angle was, however, not destroyed, and still survives. This portion (Fig. [1517]) comprises three arches of the main or central nave and the tower at the north-west angle. The latter (Fig. [1518]) is quadrilateral, and its north and west walls are raised upon the outer walls of the church at the north-west angle, portions of which walls still exist, together with the jamb of a large west window. The tower is unrelieved by buttresses. On the east and south the walls are carried on arches, the lower story being thus included in the interior of the church.

Fig. 1517.—St. Michael’s Church, Cupar.

The pier at the south-east angle which supports these arches is hexagonal in form, while the remaining piers of the church are round. The caps and bases are of the usual late form. The tower is oblong in plan, being 22 feet from east to west, and 18 feet from north to south. This inequality produces a peculiar effect in the broached spire which surmounts it, and which was erected in 1620 by the Rev. William Scott, the minister of the parish, at his own expense. The balustrade forming the parapet and the other features of the spire are quite in the character of the Scottish seventeenth century steeples, common in Fifeshire, such as those at Anstruther and Pittenweem.

The tower itself is plain with simple pointed lights, those of the upper story being double, so as to be suitable for the belfry. In the west wall there occurs a small window with peculiarly shaped head, and below it the string course is studded with square shaped flowers.

In the present church is preserved a good recumbent effigy (Fig. [1519]) of one of the Fernies of Fernie, but it is without date. The arms over

Fig. 1518.—St. Michael’s Church, Cupar. Tower.

the monument—a fesse between 3 lions’ heads erased—are those of Fernie of that Ilk. Several members of this family were Constables of Cupar in

Fig. 1519.—St. Michael’s Church, Cupar. Monument of one of the Fernies of Fernie.

ancient times. The lands of Fernie lie a few miles to the west of the town.

ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH, Dalgety, Fifeshire.

A remarkable structure, which stands near the Forth at the head of a small bay about two miles south-west from Aberdour, the road to it passing through the beautiful grounds of St. Colm House.

The old church (Fig. [1520]) forms the eastern part of the structure, while to the west has been erected a two-story building, containing on the ground floor a burial vault, and on the upper floor a “laird’s loft” or room for the Lord of the Manor, from which access was obtained to a gallery in the church.

The ancient church was dedicated to St. Bridget in 1244. It retains a simple pointed doorway at the south-west angle, a number of altered and square-headed windows in the south wall, and a piscina at the east end of the same wall, but there are scarcely any of the old details preserved to indicate the date of the building. It has evidently been greatly altered, to make it suitable for Presbyterian worship after the Reformation. There are two projecting buildings on the north side and one on the south

Fig. 1520.—St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety. Plan of Ground Floor.

side, all much ruined, but the mouldings of the jambs of the northern projections at the openings into the church are preserved and indicate Renaissance work. These outside structures were probably burial vaults.

Fig. 1521.—St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety. View from South-West.

The house at the west end is undoubtedly post-Reformation. In the vault is buried the celebrated Chancellor Seaton, and the building, to judge

Fig. 1522.—St. Bridget’s Church, Dalgety.

Plan of First Floor.

from its style (Fig. [1521]), was probably erected by him about the beginning of the seventeenth century. The upper floor is reached by a projecting octagonal stair turret on the north side. The interior of the walls of the principal room on the first floor (Fig. [1522]) is built with ashlar work, and the walls are divided into moulded panels in stone work and a stone cornice runs round the room.

A wide aperture in the east wall of the room opens into the church at a high level, and no doubt gave access to a gallery at the west end. The belfry is placed on the west gable of this room and still contains a small bell, the chain for ringing which has cut a deep groove in the wall outside. The small room at the south-west angle contains a fireplace. There has been another gallery at the east end of the church. The outside staircase for access to it still remains. A good monumental slab is built into the north wall of the church, bearing date 1540.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH, Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire.[229]

The village of Dalry or St. John’s Town stands on the east bank of the Dee, in the northern or Glenkens district of Kirkcudbrightshire, and is about ten miles north from Parton Railway Station. The old parish church was removed in 1829-31, when a new church was erected on the old site.

An old burial vault formerly attached to the church, and known as the Kenmure burial aisle, has, however, been preserved, which (Fig. [1523]), with its crow-stepped gable and large antiquely grilled window and panelled coat of arms, forms an interesting relic of the seventeenth century.

This adjunct to the old church formed a projection on its south side, and measures internally 17 feet in length by 14 feet 2 inches in width (Fig. [1524]). The entrance from the church, which was about 7 feet wide, was by a plain rubble archway, which is now built up. The doorway in the west wall is square-lintelled, and 2 feet 8 inches wide. The window in the south wall is also square-lintelled, and the iron grill appears to have been built in along with the wall. The coat of arms in the panel over the window is divided in pale, having the three boars’ heads of the Gordons on the dexter side, and a lion rampant on the sinister side. These, Mr. Galloway suggests, may be the arms of John Gordon of Kenmure, who was Justiciar of the Stewartry in 1555, and died in 1604, and who here combines the provincial with the family arms—the lion rampant being the heraldic emblem of the province of Galloway.

There is an ambry in the south-west angle 1 foot 7 inches wide by 1 foot 9 inches high, and 1 foot 3 inches deep.

Fig. 1523.—St. John’s Church, Dalry. View from South-West.

On the outside of the north-east angle there is an interesting relic of the south wall of the old church, a portion of one rybat of a window having been preserved. Three courses of freestone yet remain, having a bold splay externally, a groove for glass, and a splayed ingoing. This shows that the chancel of the old church must have extended some distance to the eastward.

Some of the dressed granite stones of the old church have been reused in the modern building.

Fig. 1524.—St. John’s Church, Dalry. Plan.

DRAINIE CHURCH AND MICHAEL KIRK, Morayshire.

These two churches are examples of the revived Gothic architecture of post-Reformation times. The parish of Drainie was formed by the union of the two old parishes of Kineddar and Ogstown. They both lie on the Morayshire coast, about five to six miles north of Elgin, and fully two miles from Lossiemouth. The country is low lying, and used in former times to be marshy. Kineddar was a seat of the Bishopric of Moray before it was moved to Spynie, and ultimately to Elgin. There too stood a large fortified castle (of the first period), consisting of a great wall of enceinte surrounded by a deep ditch, but it has now been taken down, and the plough passes over the site. This castle formed the residence of some of the Bishops of Moray before Spynie Palace was erected.

The Church of Drainie was built in 1666, and is a good example of the period. It has evidently been designed to meet the requirements of the Presbyterian service of the time (Fig. [1525]). The pulpit would be in the centre of the south wall, with a window placed on each side of it. Beyond these, on either hand, are two doors, each admitting to a short passage, which would give access to a central one. The main body of the church is 62 feet in length by 24 feet in width, and in the centre of the north side is a wing 24 feet by 18 feet. This wing or “aisle” is spanned by a stone arch, which may have carried a gallery above, to light which a small window is introduced in the north gable. The ground floor of the north wing would be seated in the usual manner, and is provided with an entrance door and two windows. Similar arrangements of plan are common in the Scottish churches of post-Reformation times.

Fig. 1525.—Drainie Church. Plan.

The windows and doors (Fig. [1526]) have pointed arches, and the windows are each divided by one mullion, which branches into two in the arch-head. These door and window dressings are all chamfered on the edges. The cornice is of classic form, and the gables are crow-stepped. The west gable is finished on top with an ornamental belfry in the Renaissance style of the period, in which some revival of Gothic features was attempted.

---

Michael Kirk.—About half a mile west from Drainie stood the ancient church of Ogstown, the site of which is now occupied by the remarkable specimen of revived Gothic shown in Fig. [1527]. This edifice was erected as a mausoleum for his family by Lodvic Gordon of Gordonston, an estate in the vicinity. Mr. Gordon belonged to a branch of the

Fig. 1526.—Drainie Church. View from South-West.

Sutherland family, the first baronet being Sir Robert Gordon, the author of the History of Sutherland.

Fig. 1527.—Michael Kirk.

Ornaments in East Window.

The edifice (Fig. [1528]) is 45 feet in length by 20 feet in width externally. It has large pointed and traceried windows in the east and west gables, and the south wall contains a central door and a two-light window at each side of it. The openings are all pointed, and the windows have a kind of tracery. The north wall has no openings, being apparently designed to receive monuments, of which it already contains several. This structure bears the date of 1703, and is a remarkable product of that period. The forms of the tracery (Fig. [1530]) indicate a very slight acquaintance with Gothic, and the mouldings have all more of a

Fig. 1528.—Michael Kirk. Plan.

classic than a Gothic character. The ornaments introduced in the transoms are peculiar. Those in the east window consist of a series of Cupids’ heads

Fig. 1529.—Michael Kirk.

Ornaments in West Window.

(Fig. [1527]), while those of the west window show a variety of flower patterns (Fig. [1529]) carved with considerable spirit. The urns which act as finials on the gables betray the Renaissance feeling of the period. In the architrave-like moulding which surrounds the door and windows are introduced a series of alternating stars and roses.

It may be thought astonishing to find a revival of Gothic so prominent in this northern region; but it must be borne in mind that the Episcopal form of Church government encouraged by royalty in the seventeenth century found considerable favour in this part of Scotland.

Fig. 1530.—Michael Kirk. View from South-West.

DURNESS CHURCH, Sutherlandshire.[230]

It is interesting to find in the neighbourhood of Cape Wrath a specimen of ecclesiastical architecture, even though of the seventeenth century. The old parish church, which is now a ruin, occupies the site of a cell of Dornoch monastery. It was built in 1619. The Plan (Fig. [1531]) is somewhat irregular, but not unlike, in general form, to many of the churches of Scotland at the same period, having the pulpit placed in the centre of the long side wall, and facing the wing.

In a recess is the grave of Duncan MacMorroch, a relation of the chief of the clan, believed to have been very serviceable in getting rid quietly of

Fig. 1531.—Durness Church. Plan.

troublesome hindrances. This gentleman was desirous to be buried in the sacred edifice, but as some doubts existed as to his sanctity, it was resolved

Fig. 1532.—Durness Church. View from South-West.

not to admit his body quite into the church, so he was buried under the wall. His tomb is dated 1619, and his epitaph hands down his name to posterity in the following words:—

“Duncan MacMorroch here lies low
Was ill to his friend, waur to his foe
True to his master in weird and wo.”

The adjoining gable has crowsteps and is topped with a belfry (Fig. [1532]). The lintel of the doorway in the wing bears the letters and figures 16 · HMK · A. In the gable of the wing there is a two-light window with a pointed arch, a central mullion dividing into two small arches at the head (the space between being left solid), and a transom.

An old font lies in the main part of the church.

EAST CALDER CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

This edifice was the parish church of East Calder till 1750, when a new church was erected at Kirknewton, and East Calder was united with that parish. These two parishes lie about ten miles west from Edinburgh.

The Church of East Calder was dedicated to St. Cuthbert. At the accession of William the Lion the church was granted to the monks of Kelso. This parish was formerly called Calder-Clere, to distinguish it from

Fig. 1533.—East Calder Church. Plan.

Mid-Calder, which lies about one mile west of it, on the opposite side of the river Almond. The church, which is now a ruin, stands in its old churchyard. It is a simple oblong (Fig. [1533]), internally 56 feet in length by 17 feet in width. The north wall has been removed, and the interior divided into burial-places, separated by walls and railings. The doorways and windows have been built up, and few of the wall openings can now be seen. One window is still partly preserved in the east end (Fig. [1534]). It has evidently been divided into two lights by a mullion, which is removed, and each light has had a round-arched head. Another window in the south wall, near the east end, is of similar form. The mullion and round heads of the opening have been preserved by being built up. A doorway, also built up, adjoins the window in the south wall on the west.

Fig. 1534.—East Calder Church. View from South-East.

There may be other built up openings, but the wall is so thickly covered with ivy that they cannot be identified. The belfry on the west gable is plain, and evidently late in date. The few details which survive indicate a post-Reformation style, probably of about 1600.

EASSIE AND NEVAY, Forfarshire.

Two ruined parish churches, each in its churchyard, situated within two miles of each other and about nine miles south-west of Forfar. They are small buildings, measuring respectively 56 feet 6 inches by 15 feet 6 inches, and 53 feet 6 inches by 18 feet 6 inches within the walls (Fig. [1535]). Neither church has any openings in the north wall. At Eassie (Fig. [1536]) all the doors and windows are square-headed, and at Nevay they are the same, except that the west doorway is round-headed, but not arched, being cut out of one stone. At Eassie the westmost doorway on the south side is of eighteenth century work, but the eastmost one is original. An ivy-mantled belfry crowns the west end of each edifice.

On the lintel of the south door at Nevay there is the date 1695, with the initials D. N. between the first two and last two figures. These are

Fig. 1535.—Eassie and Nevay Churches. Plans.

doubtless the initials of David of Nevay, whose father, a Senator of the College of Justice, died shortly before this date. The church, however,

Fig. 1536.—Eassie Church.

appears to be of earlier date, as a tombstone of 1597 is built into its walls.

These churches were in the diocese of St. Andrews, and in 1309 “Robert I. gave the advocation and donation of the Kirk of Eassie to the Monks of Newbottle.[231]”

St. Neveth, martyr, to whom the church was dedicated, and from whom it received its name, was a bishop “in the north,” who was slain by the Saxons and the Picts, and Bishop Forbes[232] suggests that the martyr was buried at Nevay.

Eassie was dedicated to St. Brandon.

At Eassie Church there is one of the finest of the Scottish sculptured stones.

PULPIT FROM ST. CUTHBERT’S CHURCH, Edinburgh.

The annexed sketch (Fig. [1537]) shows the old pulpit of St. Cuthbert’s Church as it stood in St. Cuthbert’s Poorhouse, Lothian Road, Edinburgh, before that building was removed in 1868. It appears[233] that when St. Cuthbert’s Church was demolished in 1773, the pulpit was transferred to the Poorhouse. Its date can be pretty well ascertained. From a minute of the kirk-session of 15th August 1651, we find that Cromwell’s soldiers had so completely sacked the church that there was “nayther pulpit, loft, nor seat left therein,” all doors and windows having been broken, and the roof by cannon shot completely ruined. Steps were immediately taken to repair the damage, and in April 1652 the church was reopened for public worship. This pulpit was doubtless made between the above dates, and its style is characteristic of the time. It is of oak, and probably in the old church it stood on a loftier base than is shown in the sketch.

FETTERESSO CHURCH, Kincardineshire.

The parish of Fetteresso included a considerable part of the town of Stonehaven on the east coast of Kincardineshire. The old church, the ruins of which stand in a large churchyard, is situated near the Carron Water, about one mile and a half south-west from Stonehaven. The structure probably occupies the site of a very ancient church, dedicated to St. Cavan, which stood at the Hamlet of Fetteresso. It is beautifully situated amongst fine old trees.

Fig. 1537.—Pulpit from St. Cuthbert’s Church, Edinburgh.

The existing edifice, which is roofless, appears, from the style of its architecture, to be chiefly post-Reformation. The walls and gables are well preserved and much covered with ivy.

Fig. 1538.—Fetteresso Church. Plan.

The church (Fig. [1538]) is, internally, 81 feet in length from east to west by 17 feet 6 inches in width from north to south. It has a wing

Fig. 1539.—Fetteresso Church. View from North-West.

thrown out to the north, which is about 17 feet square, and bears the date of 1720. A small adjunct to the west of the wing carries the date of 1857. The wall openings are almost entirely in the south wall, in which there are three doorways and six windows. There is one window in the east end and one pointed doorway in the north wall. The north wing contains a north doorway and two windows in the east wall. This wing, doubtless, contained a gallery. The openings in the south wall are all built up, and the interior is converted into a private burial-ground. The details have all the character of eighteenth century work. The belfry (Fig. [1539]) stands on the top of the west gable and still retains its bell, which is used on the occasion of funerals. The church and its surroundings are very picturesque.

FORDEL CHAPEL, Fifeshire.

This is a private chapel in the beautiful grounds of Fordel Castle,[234] about two miles north from Inverkeithing. It bears the date of 1650, and tradition has it that the works were interrupted by Cromwell’s soldiers.

The edifice is now used as a mortuary chapel by the proprietors of Fordel House.

Fig. 1540.—Fordel Chapel. Plan.

The structure bears the mark of the period when it was erected in the mixed style of its architecture, being partly an imitation of Gothic and partly Renaissance. It measures (Fig. [1540]) about 40 feet in length by 16 feet in width internally, and is a simple oblong in plan, with a doorway in the centre of the south side. It is lighted (Fig. [1541]) by four symmetrically arranged windows in the south side, one in the centre of the north side, and a large three-light window at each end. The windows are divided by mullions, and have a species of tracery in the round arch-heads.

The west gable is crowned with a belfry having a small spire. The stone cresting on the ridge has the small ornaments common at the period.

Fig. 1541.—Fordel Chapel.

Over the doorway (Fig. [1542]) are the quaintly carved arms of J. Henderson and his wife, M. Monteath (the Hendersons being the ancient

Fig. 1542.—Fordel Chapel. Arms over Doorway.

proprietors of the domain), with their initials and the date 1650. The same initials are repeated on tablets both on the exterior and interior of the chapel.

GARVALD CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

Situated about five miles south-east from Haddington, in the secluded valley of the Papana Water, stands the rebuilt Church of Garvald. Only a very few fragments remain (Fig. [1543]) of the ornament of the ancient

Fig. 1543.—Garvald Church. String Course.

Norman structure which formerly existed. These are built into the walls of the church, which was restored and enlarged in 1829.

GAMRIE CHURCH, Banffshire.

This church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, has a splendid situation, standing high above the cliffs overlooking the sea, and having a small fishing village on the beach immediately below. The building is now a ruin, only the walls remaining. It is a curious looking structure and

Fig. 1544.—Gamrie Church. Plan.

has been built at two periods. The east end is the earliest part. The total length of the church internally (Fig. [1544]) is about 94 feet 4 inches by 15 feet 6 inches wide. The later part of the structure is about 10 inches wider than the earlier, the walls being thinner. The external dimensions are 96 feet long by 21 feet 8 inches wide. The chancel or east end was probably heightened at the time when the west end was built. The east gable has a sett-off at the level of what was apparently the original height (Fig. [1545]). There are two doors on the south side, that in the chancel being lintelled and having a hole for a sliding bar, while the other in the nave is round arched, as is also a door in the opposite wall. These doors have all beaded mouldings. There is only one window on the north side. On the south side the windows are of various sizes, and are scattered about in an irregular way. Two of them, which are placed high in the wall, are checked for outside shutters; the others have all simple splays.

Fig. 1545.—Gamrie Church. View from South-East.

There is a plain ambry in the east wall at a high level, and adjoining it in the north wall there is a recess, probably a credence, as suggested by the Rev. Dr. Pratt.[235] This part of the building is in a neglected condition, being fitted up as a toolhouse for the gravedigger’s implements. There is built into the interior of the east gable a memorial tablet, with very quaintly carved letters and mouldings, to the memory of Patricius Barclay dominus de Tolly, and his wife, Joneta Ogilvy, who died in 1547.[236] There were other interesting memorials connected with the church which are referred to by Dr. Pratt, but of these only mutilated fragments remain. The indignant remonstrance of the Rev. Dr. against the condition of the building, written thirty years ago, backed up by a poem by Principal Geddes, has not availed to secure any respect for the old walls.

The Church of Gamrie is frequently referred to in the twelfth and following centuries. It was granted by William the Lion to Arbroath between 1189 and 1198,[237] and in 1513 Mr. Henry Preston was presented to the Church of Gamrie by the Abbot of Arbroath. Probably the existing walls were erected about the latter date, but the details indicate that great alterations have been made on the building, which convert it into a seventeenth century structure.

GLADSMUIR CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

A ruin near the village of Longniddry.

The parish of Gladsmuir was formed out of several other parishes in 1695, at which time this church (Fig. [1546]), now in ruins, was erected.

Fig. 1546.—Gladsmuir Church.

It was an oblong structure, and measures about 71 feet long by 25 feet

Fig. 1547.

Gladsmuir Church.

Sundial.

6 inches wide outside. There was, as frequently happens, an aisle on the north side about 24 feet square, opening into the church by the wide and lofty arch seen in the view. This arch, which is simply splayed on both faces, has two of its voussoirs projected about 6 inches beyond the others. These may have been rests for diagonal pieces to carry the continuation of the roof at the arch. A sundial (Fig. [1547]), bearing the date 1700, stands in the usual place at the south-west corner.

The district was formerly served by a chapel which stood a mile or so to the south of Gladsmuir, of which all traces having been recently removed, only its site can be pointed out.

Fig. 1548.—The Tron Steeple, Glasgow.

THE TRON STEEPLE, Glasgow.

This tower, with its spire, stands in the Trongate, the most crowded thoroughfare of the city of Glasgow, and, as will be seen (Fig. [1548]), it projects on to the street. It is believed that it is in contemplation to remove it; and as the old college buildings were got rid of a few years ago without much regret being expressed, the removal of a small steeple like this will, doubtless, be regarded as a very simple matter. Yet its destruction will deprive us of a very interesting example of a genuine seventeenth century spire, of which few were erected or now survive in Scotland. This steeple was erected in 1637. It has clearly been built in imitation of that of the cathedral, having similar features translated into the style of its time, and with rather a happy effect.

The steeple was attached to a church of older date, which was burned down in 1793. This was the Collegiate Church of St. Thenaw, which was erected in 1525, with the consent of the archbishop, Gavin Dunbar.

From the proximity of the public weighing machine or Tron to the church, it gradually came to be known as the Tron Church, and latterly the instrument itself stood in the ground floor of the steeple, which was then enclosed with solid walls. About forty years ago the Tron was removed, and the ground floor of the building was opened up to form an open passage along the street pavement. The wide arches on the street floor are thus modern.

GRANDTULLY CHAPEL, Perthshire.[238]

This chapel stands a little to the east of Grandtully Castle at a place called Pitcairn (anciently Petquharne), about three miles from Aberfeldy. It is situated at a considerable height above the valley of Strathtay, and commands an extensive view of mountain scenery. Any one seeing the chapel for the first time, and unacquainted with its existence, might easily mistake it for part of the adjoining farm buildings, it is so plain and humble in appearance. Only the presence of the churchyard surrounding it, and a very small cross on the east gable, serve to call attention to the fact that it is a sacred edifice, which on inspection is found to possess features of considerable interest.

The building (Fig. [1549]) may be said to be entire in walls and roof. It measures on the outside about 79 feet long by about 23 feet 3 inches wide, and is at present divided into two parts by a stone partition.

There are two doors and several small windows on the south side. These openings are all straight lintelled and quite unadorned. A door on the north side is probably modern. There is a small locker, 14 or 15 inches square, in the usual position in the north wall near the east end. This ambry, which is about four feet from the floor, is of great interest, as it is quite entire, having a wooden door and hinges, an almost unknown condition in Scotland. There is another small recess about 17 inches square and about 3 feet from the ground in the east wall. But the principal feature of the chapel, and what renders it almost unique, is the

Fig. 1549.—Grandtully Chapel. Plan.

painted ceiling at the east end. This ceiling is constructed, as shown on the sketch (Fig. [1550]), at the west end of the eastern division. The roof consists of rafters and ties, on which, at the east end, boards are fixed so as to present a circular form, in the same way as in several of the other painted ceilings of Scottish castles and mansions, such as Pinkie, Culross, and Earl’s Hall. It is not known whether this painted roof extended the whole length of the chapel or was confined, as it now is, to the east end. The painting presents four rows of circular discs, each containing six circles, which are variously ornamented. Four of them are occupied with the four Evangelists, and others with coats of arms, including the royal arms—1st and 4th, Scotland; 2nd, England; 3rd, Ireland, with an inner-escutcheon. The arms of England and Scotland also occur on separate shields, as well as those of the Earls of Athole and of the Laird of Grandtully and his wife, Dame Agnes Moncrieff. The paintings were rather exposed for some years to damp, and in many places the subjects and inscriptions, which are numerous, are considerably effaced; but further decay is arrested by the roof having recently been put in good order. Amongst the paintings there are complicated monograms, and a large panel in the centre contains an elaborate composition showing buildings with quaint figures.

This chapel is first noticed in a “Notarial instrument, recording sasine given by Alexander Steuart of Garntulye, from devotion and with the view of promoting divine worship” of certain lands, “in terms of a charter to be made, to Alexander Young, sub-prior of St. Andrews, as representing the curate who is to officiate at the chapel built near the manor-place of Petquharne, and to be consecrated to God, the Virgin Mary, St. Andrew the Apostle, St. Adamnanus and St. Beanus. Dated 9th May 1533.”

Following this, in the 3rd June of the same year, is the charter referred to conveying the land and privileges to the church and to a chaplain, “who was to be a suitable curate, personally residing and celebrating divine worship and the sacraments irreproachably in the Church of St. Mary of Grantulye.” The church was “to be held for prayers to be made by the

Fig. 1550.—Grandtully Chapel. Interior.

said chaplain for the universal church, the prosperity of King James V. and his kingdom, the granter’s own soul, and the souls of certain of his relatives,” &c.

This gives us the period of the erection of the church, but the painting is later, being shown by the style and by the arms to have been done by Sir William Steuart about the year 1636. Sir William was an intimate friend from childhood of King James VI., and was by him greatly beloved. He married Agnes Moncrieff, daughter of Sir John of that Ilk, and, as already mentioned, their arms are on the ceiling, and their initials are also carved over a small window in the east gable.

GREENLAW CHURCH, Berwickshire.

This church, with its venerable tower, overlooks, in a very prominent manner, the small county town of Greenlaw. The present building occupies the site of an early church, and probably dates from the

Fig. 1551.—Greenlaw Church.

beginning of last century. It is a very simple structure, and harmonises well with the ancient tower. The latter (Fig. [1551]), which is a part of an earlier church, is an interesting example of a Scottish church tower. It is quite plain in its lower stages, and has a corbelled out parapet at the top, which is reached by a stair in the projecting turret, seen in the sketch. The tower is a place of considerable strength, being vaulted on the ground floor, and is probably a building of the fifteenth century.

The manor of Greenlaw belonged to the Earls of Dunbar and Gospatrick, and the third Earl granted the church, in 1159, to the Abbey of Kelso. Greenlaw was one of the churches dedicated by Bishop David de Bernham.

INSCH CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

The town of Insch is a station on the Great North of Scotland Railway between Aberdeen and Huntly. The old parish church, which is

Fig. 1552.—Insch Church. Front and Side View of Belfry.

abandoned, stands in the churchyard. The west wall, crowned with its belfry, is almost all that now survives. The belfry (Fig. [1552]) is ornate, and is a good specimen of the Scottish Renaissance designs erected in the beginning of the seventeenth century. It bears the date of 1613, when it is believed the church was erected. On the south side the tympanum carries a shield with the Leslie arms and the initials M. I. L.

KEMBACK CHURCH, Fifeshire.[239]

Situated at the entrance to Duraden, near Dairsie Railway Station, are the ivy-covered ruins of the sixteenth century church of Kemback, surrounded with its ancient burial-ground. The building (Fig. [1553])

Fig. 1553.—Kemback Church. Plan.

retains the Gothic feeling in the external splays on the square-headed doors and windows, but the Renaissance influence is apparent in the east window. Contrary to the usual practice, the door and windows are in the north wall.

About half a mile distant the site of an older church is pointed out, but all that remains of it is the late headless effigy of a lady.

THE GLENCAIRN MONUMENT, Kilmaurs, Ayrshire.

The Church of Kilmaurs, situated near the village of that name about two and a half miles north-west from Kilmarnock, was formerly collegiate, having a provost and six prebendaries. It has been rebuilt, and the

Fig. 1554.—The Glencairn Monument, Kilmaurs.

burial aisle of the Earls of Glencairn, which no doubt was formerly attached to it, now stands apart. The aisle was erected by the seventh Earl in 1600, and contains the fine monument (Fig. [1554]) of William, ninth Earl, who was Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. He died in 1664, and was buried in St. Giles’, Edinburgh.

The monument is of a classic design, somewhat resembling some others in the south of Scotland, such as that of the Kennedies at Ballantrae and M‘Lellan at Kirkcudbright,[240] having shafts at each side, and an entablature crowned with a panel containing the family arms.

Within the frame formed by the pillars and entablature are half-length figures of the Earl and his lady, with open books in front of them, and a panel between which contained a long inscription, now illegible. A row of small figures beneath doubtless represents the family of the deceased.

KINNEIL CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

The ruins of this old parish church are situated a few yards to the west of the ancient mansion house of Kinneil, near Bo’ness. The church

Fig. 1555.—Kinneil Church.

was abandoned about 1636, at which time a new one was built at Bo’ness, about one mile distant. What remains of the old church is the west wall, crowned with a double belfry (Fig. [1555]), and the returns of the side walls. The end wall measures 26 feet wide outside, and is 3 feet 9 inches thick. The length of the church cannot now be traced, but there are indications of buildings at a distance eastwards of about 64 feet.[241] From indications on the north side of the church, there appear to have been some attached buildings. The ruins are quite overgrown with ivy, and nothing definite can be said further regarding them.

ST. BEAN’S CHURCH, Kinkell, Perthshire.

Situated on the right bank of the Earn about two miles south from Auchterarder, this church, which is a post-Reformation one, stands in the centre of a small churchyard on a hillock overlooking the river, and

Fig. 1556.—St. Bean’s Church, Kinkell.

is entire, but roofless (Fig. [1556]). It is now divided by cross walls into three burial-places. The building (Fig. [1557]) measures about 65 feet 2 inches in length by 23 feet wide externally. Like most of the early Presbyterian churches it has a considerable resemblance, in plan, to those of the Gothic period, being long and narrow, with a south door near the west end, south windows, and an end window high up in each gable. All the openings are lintelled and splayed. There was a belfry on the west gable.

Fig. 1557.—St. Bean’s Church, Kinkell. Plan.

The church was probably built about the end of the sixteenth century. It was repaired about the year 1680 at the instigation of the Bishop and Synod of Dunblane, and shortly afterwards the parish of Kinkell was absorbed into that of Trinity Gask, when the building was allowed to fall into ruin.

The Church of Kinkell was dedicated to St. Bean, and was a cell of Inchaffray.

MONUMENT IN KINNOULL CHURCH, Perthshire.

The old church of Kinnoull stood on the east side of the Tay opposite Perth. It may be said to have entirely disappeared with the exception of an aisle which was attached to the church, and now contains a seventeenth century monument to the Earl of Kinnoull (Fig. [1558]). The monument is of a pompous kind, and inspires none of those feelings of reverence begotten by the monuments of the Middle Ages. It occupies the full width and height of the aisle, and has a high dado richly sculptured on the pedestals and sides with arms and insignia of power, and contains an ornate central panel. From the dado there rise three columns resting on pedestals. The columns themselves are twisted and carved. The capitals, which are in imitation of Corinthian, are very debased. The two end columns are backed by projecting pilasters at the wall. Above the columns there runs a carved entablature with cornice, supporting, by way of finish, a heraldic slab in the centre, with various separate figures on each side of it.

The principal feature of the monument, to which all the above are accessories, is the life-sized statue of George, first Earl of Kinnoull and Chancellor of Scotland. His history will be found in Crawford’s Lives of the Officers of State. The monument was erected in 1635.

Fig. 1558.—Monument in Kinnoull Church.

KIRKOSWALD CHURCH, Ayrshire.

Kirkoswald is a village on the road between Girvan and Maybole in Carrick, containing an old church and churchyard. The church (Fig. [1559]) is a simple oblong measuring about 93 feet 6 inches in length by 28 feet 4 inches in width over the walls. It seems originally to have consisted of plain walls without buttresses, but within modern times the

Fig. 1559.—Kirkoswald Church.

structure has been converted into a mausoleum by building up all the windows, and by adding buttresses along the south side. The pointed blank windows and the large pointed doorway in the south wall are also modern additions. The modern applied buttress at the south-west angle is now falling away.

At first sight the building presents an ancient appearance, but closer examination shows that it has been modernised beyond recognition.

LAUDER CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The small town of Lauder stands in the wide and fertile vale of the Leader Water, about six miles (over a high hill) from the nearest railway station at Stow. The ancient parish church of Lauder was bestowed, in the reign of David i., on Sir Hugh Morville, Constable of Scotland. It was afterwards given by Devorgilla, wife of John Baliol, to Dryburgh Abbey, to which it remained attached till the Reformation. It appears that there were two chapels connected with the parish church in different parts of the parish.

The existing parish church (Fig. [1560]) stands in the ancient churchyard. It has apparently been entirely rebuilt in 1673, which date is carved on the north gable. Chalmers, however, says that the ancient church was relinquished in 1617, when a new church was erected. The present structure, although very late, shows some reminiscences of Gothic forms, both in its plan and elevations.

Fig. 1560.—Lauder Church. Plan.

The plan is a Greek cross having four equal arms extending from a central crossing. The latter is 14 feet square, and each arm is 28 feet 6 inches in length by 16 feet in width internally. The crossing is surmounted by four pointed arches, which spring from a massive pier at each angle, and carry the central tower. In the north-west and south-east angles of the arms there are introduced two entrance lobbies, giving access to the four arms and to staircases, leading to a gallery in each arm. The space on the ground floor below the galleries is low, and is lighted by two square windows in the end wall of each arm (Fig. [1561]), with moulded jambs and lintel, while each upper floor or gallery is lighted by means of a large pointed window in the gable, filled with plain intersecting tracery, with mullions and transoms.

The entrance doorways have round arches with hood moulding, and the side windows of the staircases are pointed. The external angles of the building and the outline of the windows are all finished with a broad fillet, projected so as to receive rough casting. The skews of the gables are plain and do not project, and the joints are horizontal. Each skew has a large projecting stone at bottom. These appear to have carried small pyramidal ornaments, two of which are still preserved.

Fig. 1561.—Lauder Church. View from North-West.

The central tower is square till it reaches the ridge of the main roofs, above which point it becomes octagonal, and is finished with a slated roof. A small round-headed window of a late style is inserted in four sides of the octagonal part or belfry.

The staircase buildings in the two angles do not appear to be parts of the original structure, or at least would seem to have been a good deal altered.

In the neighbourhood of Lauder is Thirlestane Castle,[242] the residence of the Duke of Lauder, well known in connection with the attempted introduction in the seventeenth century of Episcopacy into Scotland. It seems not unlikely that the quasi-Gothic character of the church may have been the result of his influence.

LESWALT CHURCH,[243] Wigtonshire.

A ruined church, the predecessor of the present one, which was built early in this century. It stands about four miles west from Stranraer. All the dressed stones of the wall openings have been taken out, so that nothing remains to tell the date of the structure. In the seventeenth century a wing (Fig. [1562]) has been erected against the north wall, which probably contained a gallery above and a burial-place below, as was frequently the case in similar erections about that time. The wall between the wing and the church is still standing several feet high.

Fig. 1562.—Leswalt Church.

The wing has been entered by a plain flat lintelled door in the north wall (Fig. [1563]), over which is a window divided into four compartments by a moulded mullion and transom. This window would light the private room or gallery on the upper floor. A panel (Fig. [1564]) below the window shows that the place was used as a burial vault, as it contains an inscription and two coats of arms. The inscription states that it is in memory of Patritus Agnew of Lochnaw, Earl of Wigton, and Margaret Kennedy, his spouse; A.D. 1644. The arms on the shields beneath are those of Agnew and Kennedy.

Fig. 1563.—Leswalt Church. North Gallery.

Fig. 1564.—Leswalt Church.

Panel over Door.

After the new church was erected the old one was used as the parish school, which accounts for a fireplace still visible in the east wall of the church.

Fig. [1565] shows its present ruined condition.

Before the Reformation the Church of Leswalt belonged to the Monks of Tungland, and in Episcopal times to the Bishop of Galloway.

Fig. 1565.—Leswalt Church.

ST. COLM’S CHURCH, Lonmay, Aberdeenshire.

Only the merest fragment of this church now remains. Its dimensions can be determined as having been 62 feet in length by 15 feet 3 inches wide inside. Part of the west gable survives for a height of about 10 or 12 feet, with a small square-headed window. Nothing else is left but grass-covered ruins and fallen pieces of masonry.

LOUDOUN CHURCH, Galston, Ayrshire.[244]

This was originally a structure of the first pointed period, but it is now in a state of complete ruin, except the choir, which has been fitted up in the seventeenth century as a burial vault.

The west gable stands nearly entire, but the side walls are completely demolished, except at the choir (Fig. [1566]). The building is externally

Fig. 1566.—Loudoun Church. Plan.

64 feet long by 27 feet wide. The choir is about 14 feet 9 inches long, and is separated from the nave by a plain round arch 15 feet 6 inches wide (Fig. [1567]). In the east wall (Fig. [1568]) there are two pointed windows about 10 inches wide, with slight splays on the outside, and widely splayed inside (Fig. [1569]), where they are finished with round arches. There are two set-offs on the east wall, and the same occur on the west wall. The structure has been greatly modified in the seventeenth century. The south doorway into the choir and the window, with

Fig. 1567.—Loudoun Church. Chancel Arch.

Fig. 1568.—Loudoun Church. Elevation of East End.

panels and arms (Fig. [1570]), are probably all insertions of that period, as also is the vault seen in the drawings. The ground has accumulated

Fig. 1569.—Loudoun Church. Section, looking East.

Fig. 1570.—Loudoun Church. South Doorway, &c.

round the church so that the splayed base seen in Mr. Schultz’s drawings is now buried to the extent of about 2 feet.

The masonry of the ruin is of fine ashlar, in regular courses.

LYNE CHURCH, Peeblesshire.

This building, which is still used as the parish church, is situated on the Lyne Water, near the Tweed, about three miles above Peebles. It stands on the summit of a mound, which is occupied as the churchyard.

Fig. 1571.—Lyne Church. Plan.

The building (Fig. [1571]) is a tiny one, measuring internally only about 34 feet by 11 feet. The windows and doorway are on the

Fig. 1572.—Lyne Church. View from South-East.

south side (Fig. [1572]) and in each gable, there being no opening in the north wall. The windows have simple tracery of a late type, and the jambs have backfillets (a late feature) round the openings. There are angle buttresses at the west end, and a modern belfry on the apex of the west gable.

Fig. 1573.—Lyne Church. Pulpit.

Some good fragments of old woodwork survive in the church, particularly a pulpit (Fig. [1573]), which, it is usually stated, was made in Holland. Lyne is distant from the sea and must have been difficult of access; for which reason, amongst others, we doubt whether there is any truth in the tradition. The pulpit, which is circular in plan, is quite simple in design, and its construction would not present a formidable task to a Scottish country wright, judging by other examples of woodwork made in Scotland about this time. Some of the other woodwork bears the date 1644, and one of the pews, now removed, was dated 1606.[245] The church has been frequently repaired, which accounts for the loss of such examples.

“The district was, in the twelfth century, a chapelry dependent on Stobo.”[246] Robert, the chaplain of Lyne, is a witness to a charter in the Register of Glasgow, between 1208 and 1213; but of the early church then existing nothing now remains, the present structure probably dating from the beginning of the seventeenth century.

MORHAM CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

A retired parish church about four miles east from Haddington. It is stated to have been built in 1724, but some portions of ornamental carving built into the south wall (Fig. [1574]) would seem to indicate that they had formed part of an earlier structure.

Fig. 1574.—Morham Church. Fragment built into South Wall.

The only architectural feature connected with the church is the elevation of the north wing or aisle (Fig. [1575]), which, although it corresponds well with the date of the building, is in a somewhat unusual style for a Scottish church of the period.

Fig. 1575.—Morham Church. North Aisle.

CHURCH OF ST. FIACRE OR FITTACK, Nigg, Kincardineshire.

A ruined church standing in the centre of an ancient churchyard, situated about three miles south-east from Aberdeen. The church is probably one of those built during the short period of Episcopal government in the seventeenth century. It consists (Fig. [1576]) of a single chamber, but there are indications of an arch across from side to side, where shown by dotted lines on the Plan, which may have marked a chancel. The building is 48 feet 6 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width internally, and has been roofless for more than half a century.

Fig. 1577.—Church of St. Fiacre or Fittack, Nigg. View from South-West.

The lintelled door is on the south side, and there are two other doors on the north side, one of them being in the supposed chancel.

The belfry (Fig. [1577]) appears to have been rebuilt in 1703. A row of projecting corbels, which probably supported a previous belfry, are left projecting under the new one.

Fig. 1576.—Church of St. Fiacre or Fittack, Nigg. Plan.

Immediately adjoining the ruin there is a stately seventeenth century house, formerly the manse, now occupied by an agricultural tenant and farm labourers.

The building is on the site of an early church, which was granted by William the Lion to his favourite Abbey of Arbroath, and it remained as one of its dependaries till the Reformation.

OLDHAMSTOCKS CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The main portion of this church, although its walls may in part be old, is not of much architectural merit, but the chancel (Fig. [1578]) is not without interest as a specimen of late Gothic work. It is now used as a burial vault, and is completely ivy clad. It measures about 18 or 20 feet square, and is of modest height, being some 10 or 12 feet to the eaves.

The chief feature is the east window, with its rude tracery. The latter, which is of a different stone from the jambs and sills, is probably a restoration of late in the sixteenth century, while the chancel itself may be a little earlier. The building is vaulted with a barrel vault, and is covered on the exterior with overlapping stone slabs. It is impossible to say whether it contains any features of pre-Reformation times. The door seen on the south side of the choir is dated 1701.

Of the panels half concealed in the ivy, the one on the right contains the arms of Thomas Hepburn, incumbent of Oldhamstocks, and of his wife, Margaret Sinclair, who died in 1581. This Thomas Hepburn was admitted Master of Requests to Queen Mary two days after her marriage with Bothwell, and he was tried and convicted for aiding the Queen in her escape from Lochleven.[247]

Fig. 1578.—Oldhamstocks Church.

This church is of an old foundation. In 1127 Aldulph, the presbyter of Aldehamstoc, witnessed a charter of Robert, the Bishop of St. Andrews, and the church is rated in the ancient Taxatio and in Bagimond’s Roll. It is also recorded as an existing rectory in the Archbishop’s Roll of 1547.

There is a peculiar sundial on the south-west corner of the church, which is illustrated.[248] It may be mentioned that in the centre of the west end of the church there is a tower which is finished at the top with a modern belfry. This tower or turret is probably of pre-Reformation date.

ORMISTON CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

Only a small portion of the old church of Ormiston, in which Wishart and Knox more than once officiated, has been preserved. It stands close to the mansion house of Ormiston Hall, about one mile south from the village of Ormiston. A new church having been erected about a quarter of a mile distant, the old church has been allowed to go to decay. The surviving fragment of the latter appears to have been the east end. There are several stones built into the walls which must have belonged to a Norman church, being carved with the chevron ornament.

The Church of Ormiston was dedicated to St. Giles. It was granted to the Hospital of Soltre, founded by Malcolm IV., which was confirmed by the Bishop of St. Andrews in the thirteenth century.

This church was subsequently made a prebend of the Church of the Holy Trinity at Edinburgh, founded by Mary of Gueldres.

Fig. 1579.—Ormiston Church. Plan.

The building (Fig. [1579]) has been enclosed at the west end with a modern wall, and measures, within the enclosure, 16 feet 6 inches in length by 13 feet 6 inches in width. It contains in the south wall the outlines of two windows, now built up, and of one window in the north wall. These have apparently been altered at some time and made square-headed. An archway of considerable height (Fig. [1580]) stands in the continuation of the south wall westwards. It is in two orders, the outer order square and the inner order splayed. This doorway has apparently entered into the church, which, judging from the height of the archway, must have had side walls of considerable height. They are now reduced as shown, and a roof was put upon the east portion during this century, which renders the interior very dark.

In the north wall of the chancel there is a monument of some importance (Fig. [1581]), as it contains one of the few brasses which exist in Scotland. The brass consists of an engraved plate containing an inscription to the memory of Alexander Cockburn, one of the members of the family to whom the adjoining mansion house belonged. He died, as the inscription tells, at an early age. The upper part of the inscription is metrical, and was composed by the learned George Buchanan, and

Fig. 1580.—Ormiston Church. South Side.

appears in his published works. Alexander Cockburn was a pupil of John Knox, and in 1547 sought refuge in the Castle of St. Andrews. On the dexter base of the brass are engraved the Cockburn arms, and on the sinister base the arms of Sandilands, for the mother of a Cockburn, who was of the family of Sandilands of Calder. These arms are quartered with the arms of Douglas, and show the ancient relationship between that family and the Sandilands.[249]

The barony of Ormiston was the property of the Cockburns from the middle of the fourteenth century, when they acquired it by marriage.

The monument was no doubt erected not long after the death of the person commemorated, or towards the end of the sixteenth century. It corresponds in style with that of the Regent Murray, in St. Giles’ Cathedral,

Fig. 1581.—Ormiston Church. Monument to Alexander Cockburn.

Edinburgh[250] (1570), the inscription on which was also composed by George Buchanan. That at Ormiston is as follows:—

Omnia quæ longa indulget mortalibus ætas
Haec tibi Alexander prima juventa dedit
Cum genere et forma generoso sanguine digna
Ingenium velox, ingenuumque animum
Excolint virtus animum ingeniumque Camenae
Successu studio consilioque pari
His ducibus primum Peragrata Britannia deinde
Gallia ad armiferos qua patet Helvetios
Doctus ibi linguas quas Roma Sionet Athenae
Quas cum Germano Gallia docta sonat
Te licet in prima rapuerunt fata juventa
Nonimmaturo funera raptus obis
Omnibus officiis vitae qui functus obivit
Non fas nunc vitae est de brevitate queri
Hic conditur Mr. Alexander Cokburn
primogenitua Joannis domini Ormiston
et Alisonae Sandilands ex preclara
familia Calder, qui natus 13 Januarii 1535
post insignem linguarum professionem
Obiit anno ætatis suae 28 Calen. Septe.[251]

PITTENWEEM PRIORY, Fifeshire.

Of the old monastery of Pittenweem, which was connected with that on the Isle of May in the Frith of Forth, only some altered fragments survive. The priory seems to have derived its name from its being built close to a cave or “weem” on the shore of the Frith of Forth, with which it had communication by a vaulted chamber in the garden and a long straight staircase. The monastic buildings surrounded a courtyard. On the south side was the prior’s mansion (now restored and occupied by the Episcopal clergyman of the place). On the west side was the refectory, now converted into the Town Hall, and to the north of it the dormitories.

Some of the walls of these structures still exist, with two square projecting windows overlooking the courtyard. On the east side is the gatehouse, a battlemented structure with a round archway passing through it, now greatly decayed and covered with ivy. Beyond the courtyard to the north lay some outer grounds and a chapel.[252]

Fig. 1583.—Pittenweem Priory. Tower, from North-East.

After the Reformation the buildings passed into the hands of laymen, and the monastery became the “manor place of Pittenweem.” In 1588 a portion of the grounds was granted to the burgh, in order that a suitable church might be erected, which was carried out soon thereafter (Fig. [1582]). Possibly some portions of the church of the priory are included in this building, but it has in recent years been restored and extended.

Fig. 1582.—Pittenweem Priory. Plan.

The quaint tower (Fig. [1583]), with its mixture of Gothic and classic features, is the only part which has not been interfered with. The tower, which stands at the north-west angle of the church, is about 18 feet square externally. It rises with a plain square outline for a considerable way without buttresses or anything to distinguish it from a castle keep. There are even shot-holes under the windows, as in the domestic structures of the time. The stair turret in the north-east angle has the outline and corbelled gablet similar to the cape-house of the stair turrets of the Scotch castles of the period. The spire, with its remarkable lucarnes, helps to give the erection a little more of an ecclesiastical character, but the balustrade again recalls the attention to the domestic and Renaissance style of the design.[253]

POLWARTH CHURCH, Berwickshire.[254]

This church (Fig. [1584]) was reconstructed in 1703, and is believed to rest on the foundations of an older structure, dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242. The building measures 55 feet by 24 feet over the walls. Although of such a late date, it is of pleasing form, and has fine large mouldings round the doors and panels above them. A stone on the east gable contains the Polwarth arms, three piles engrailed.

The font of the old church stands outside the building. It is of a round form 28 inches in diameter. The basin, which is 22 inches in diameter,

Fig. 1584.—Polwarth Church.

is 11½ inches deep, with a central aperture. The height of the fragment is 21 inches.

HERALDIC PANEL FROM PRESTONPANS CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.[255]

This panel (Fig. [1585]) was discovered in 1891 during some alterations of the seating of the church. It then formed the back of a seat in the gallery, and was concealed by a green cloth. Doubtless, from its heraldic decorations, it must originally have occupied a more prominent position. The arms and initials show that it belonged to the Hamiltons of Preston. The date on the panel (1604) connects it with an earlier church, the present church having been erected later. The panel is of oak and in good preservation, except where cut away to make it fit its new position, and the colours are still rich and fresh. The panel is in two pieces, each 2 feet 3 inches high. The whole is divided into eight compartments, of which only four bear arms. They are all arched, and are separated by

Fig. 1585.—Heraldic Panel from Prestonpans Church.

pilasters. On the four compartments arms, surrounded by laurel wreaths, are blazoned in colour, together with initials. The initials G. H. and B. C., which refer to George Hamilton, Laird of Preston, and Barbara Cockburn, his wife, are carved in relief in the spandrils. The letters painted within the arches, viz.,S/J. H. and D./K. H. stand for Sir John Hamilton, the son of the above, and Dame Katherine Howieson, his second wife, married 1620. The lady died 1629. The shields beneath these initials contain the Hamilton arms twice, and the Cockburn and Howieson arms for the wives of the father and son. The initials of the son and his wife were carved over the windows of the tower, while over the centre window they appear in a monogram with the date 1626.

This panel, which is one of the very few early coloured decorations which survive in Scotland, is now in the possession of General Sir William Stirling Hamilton of Preston.

RATHAN CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

A ruinous building situated about three miles south from Fraserburgh, and standing in an old churchyard. The east end has entirely disappeared, and only a small part of the north wall remains (Fig. [1586]). What

Fig. 1586.—Rathan Church. Plan.

survives of the south wall of the nave is 49 feet long, but it doubtless considerably exceeded that length; the interior width is 21 feet. A south aisle is entire, but roofless. It enters from the nave by a plain round-arched opening (Fig. [1587]) 8 feet 8 inches wide, and the outside dimensions of the aisle are 35 feet long by 20 feet 8 inches wide.

The nave (see Fig. [1587]) has a door in the west end, with a window

Fig. 1587.—Rathan Church. Interior of South and West Sides.

above and a belfry on the apex of the gable, dated 1782, which probably superseded an earlier one.

Fig. 1588.—Rathan Church. Doorway of Aisle.

The aisle has a round-arched doorway (Fig. [1588]) with a bar hole in the west wall, and over it a panel with an inscription in raised letters, “Alexander Fraser of Philorth, Patron,” a coat of arms, and part of a broken stone with an inscription. It is possible that these stones are not original, but have been inserted; they are so covered with ivy that it is not easy to determine. In the south gable (Fig. [1589]), which is crow-stepped, there is a well-moulded window with a straight lintel, and a sundial over. In the east wall there is an ambry (Fig. [1590]) with an ogee arch, and alongside it what was probably a piscina is now filled with an old memorial inscription.

Fig. 1589.—Rathan Church.

Window in South Gable.

The Church of Rathan was dedicated to St. Ethernan or Eddran, from whom the place is said to take its name. This saint lived towards the end of the sixth century. “He consecrated several churches, and particularly Rethin, which was afterwards dedicated to his own memory.”[256]

Richard, parson of Rathen, is a witness to charters by Adam, Bishop of Aberdeen, between 1207 and 1228, and the benefice of Rathyn was given to the Chapter and College of Canons of St. Machar’s Cathedral by Robert i. in 1328; and in 1520 Rathyne was let in lease for the yearly rent of £212.[257]

Of the early church nothing remains. On the south aisle of the existing structure, according to the Rev. Mr. Pratt, there is the date

Fig. 1590.—Rathan Church.

Ambry.

1646. It may be that part of the church is somewhat older than this date. Ten years earlier there appear to have been building and repairs going on; and an action was brought before the Privy Council to restrain Alexander Fraser of Philorth from putting up his arms on the newly built kirk stile.[258] What was the result of the case we do not know, but Fraser evidently succeeded in getting his name carved on the church, as we see, together with his arms and his title of patron.

SOUTHANNAN CHAPEL AND CASTLE, West Kilbride, Ayrshire.

About one mile south from the railway station of Fairlie, on the level ground facing the sea, and with its back close to the railway, stands the ruin of Southannan Castle. It has been an extensive structure (Fig. [1591]), having had a high enclosing wall, with a courtyard and an arched entrance porch to the west, defended with shot-holes (Fig. [1592]). There

Fig. 1591.—Southannan Chapel and Castle. Plan.

has been a considerable range of dwelling-house accommodation, two stories in height, along the north side, and smaller buildings on the east side, leaving a large courtyard in the centre, now forming the garden of the adjoining farmhouse (Fig. [1593]). The situation is fine, and the edifice is backed by the high range of thickly wooded hills which extends between Largs and Kilbride.

The lands of Southannan were granted to Lord Semple in 1504. Chalmers says[259] that John, Lord Semple, in the reign of James IV., built a chapel, which was dedicated to St. Annan or St. Ennan, and granted for the support of the chaplain in it an annual rent of 10 merks from certain lands, “with two sowmes of pasture grass in the mains of Southennan,

Fig. 1592.—Southannan Chapel and Castle. View from West.

and an acre of land on the north side of the cemetery belonging to the said chapel for the chaplain’s manse. This grant was confirmed by the king in June 1509. The ruins of the chapel are still extant in the

Fig. 1593.—Southannan Chapel and Castle. North-West Angle of Courtyard.

front of the fine mansion of Southennan, which is also in ruins.” “Saint Inan or Innan is said to have been a confessor at Irvine, and to have died in 839.”

The castle was much enlarged by Robert, fourth Lord Sempill, ambassador to the Court of Spain in 1596; but some of the existing remains have the appearance of being still more modern. The old mansion was dismantled towards the end of last century, and the materials used in the erection of farm-buildings and dykes. “What remains are chiefly the outer walls to the left (north) of the courtyard and some more ancient-looking remnants at the back (east), attached to which are remains of what may have been the chapel of the saint.”[260] This may be the case, as some of the walls are old and have been altered; but the vaulted chamber to the east has the appearance of being much more modern.

On the whole, we fear that the chapel has entirely disappeared, and that this account of Southannan should rather have appeared amongst the castles than the churches of Scotland.

STENTON CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

The village of Stenton is situated about three and a half miles south-east from East Linton Railway Station. The church (Fig. [1594]), which, with the exception of the tower and the entrance doorway, is a total ruin (Fig. [1595]), extends for a length of about 65 feet, but as the east end is

Fig. 1594.—Stenton Church. Plan.

entirely gone, it is impossible to say how much longer it was. The width of the building within the walls is about 18 feet. The doorway (Fig. [1596]), which is on the south side near the west end, is arched with a flat segment of a circle, with the mouldings of the jambs (Fig. [1597]) continued round the arch, and with a splayed impost separating the arch and jambs. The arch is finished with a hood moulding. The small flat-headed window seen alongside the doorway (see Fig. [1595]) is an insertion probably of the seventeenth century, and no other feature of the church is now in existence, except indications of a north door (see Plan).

The tower, however, stands complete and entire at the south-west corner of the structure. It measures about 16 feet 6 inches by 15 feet

Fig. 1595.—Stenton Church. Tower, &c., from South-East.

9 inches over the walls, and is two stories in height. It is entered by a narrow flat lintelled door on the south side. The space inside is about 10 feet by 7 feet, but it has been narrowed by masonry at the ground level, as shown on the Plan, to a width of about 5 feet. The tower communicated with the church by a doorway, now built up.

Fig. 1596.—Stenton Church. Doorway.

The upper story, which has a timber floor, has been reached by a ladder. It is lighted by a window on each face, round arched

Fig. 1597.—Stenton Church.

Moulding of Doorway.

and widely splayed, and the arches are cut out of single stones. The tower finishes with a saddle-backed roof and crow-stepped gables, the whole being of the original construction.

From indications remaining against the north wall of the tower, there has doubtless been a high window in the west gable of the church.

Fig. 1598.—Font and Top Stone of Gable.

The whole structure appears to be of the sixteenth century. The top stone of the east gable and a simple circular font (Fig. [1598]) are lying near the ruin.

STOW CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

The village of Stow is situated on the Gala Water, in the southern part of Mid-Lothian, near the borders of Roxburghshire and Peeblesshire.

The parish was originally called Wedale, and the church belonged to the Bishop of St. Andrews, who had a residence there. Hence the village was known as the Stow of Wedale.

Fig. 1599.—Stow Church. Plan.

The original Church of St. Mary was at a distance from the village, but the existing ruin, which is partly of some antiquity, stands in the ancient churchyard close to the village.

Fig. 1600.—Stow Church. View from South-West.

The structure is for the most part of seventeenth century date, but a portion at the south-west angle is much older, and has been incorporated with the newer building. The plan of the church, as it now stands (Fig. [1599]), consists of an oblong 67 feet in length by 21 feet in width internally, with a wing on the south side 14 feet long by 11 feet wide within the walls.

The principal oblong chamber appears to have been constructed at two different times, there being a break in the interior of the wall at 20 feet from the east end. There is also a slight exterior projection on the outside of the north wall at the same point. The eastern addition has evidently been made so as to provide a gallery, probably a private one, at this end. The gallery was entered by a long slope or ramp on the exterior of the east wall, beneath which was a door giving access to the space below the gallery. The gallery and space below were lighted by square-headed windows in the south wall. On the jamb of the east doorway is carved the date 1799.

The arrangements at the west end have been similar to those at the east end. There was a gallery, lighted by a large traceried window (Fig. [1600]) in the west wall of seventeenth century design, and the space below the gallery had two square-headed windows in the same wall, divided with mullions. A round-headed doorway in the south wall gave

Fig. 1601.

Stow Church.

Mouldings of South Doorway.

access to the space under the gallery, the mouldings of which (Fig. [1601]) clearly indicate a late date. Adjoining this doorway is the portion of the structure above alluded to as being of ancient date. This consists of a plain buttress built with freestone ashlar, and a small part of the south and west walls connected with it, including a base splay on the south side. These walls are built with the same kind of materials as the buttress, while the greater part of the walls are constructed with rubble work. The buttress has the broad form with small projection, and the simple water table of Norman or transition work.

The projection or “aisle” on the south side of the church has also contained a private gallery, with a fireplace in the south wall. The mouldings of the doorway indicate seventeenth or eighteenth century work.

There are no windows in the north wall, but some portions of the masonry are of ashlar work and may be of the period of the south-west angle.

The belfry, the vane of which bears the date of 1794, is a comparatively late addition. It is supported on corbels projecting from the inside of the wall.

Fig. 1602.—Terregles Church after Restoration.

Fig. 1603.—Terregles Church before Restoration.

TERREGLES CHURCH, Kirkcudbrightshire.

This curious structure (Fig. [1602]) is situated about two and a-half miles north-west from Dumfries. It was erected by the fourth Lord Herries shortly before his death in 1583.

A few years ago this “queir” or choir was completely restored, and the buttresses were then added. Omitting these it may be regarded as a fair example of the quaint architecture of James VI.’s time, when the revival of Gothic was attempted, along with the revival of Episcopacy.

FINIALS ON CORNERS OF CHANCEL

AGNES LADY HERRIES

Fig. 1604.—Terragles Church. Details of Finials and Coat of Arms of Agnes, Lady Herries.

We are fortunate in being able to show a drawing (Fig. [1603]) of the church made by the late Mr. W. F. Lyon, architect, in 1872, before it was restored. Fig. [1604] shows details of the finials and the arms of Agnes, Lady Herries, which are carved on the church. The date 1585 is cut in the cornice over the east window.

Before the Reformation this church belonged to the nunnery of Lincluden, and the collegiate church which succeeded it.

TURRIFF CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

This ancient church, which was dedicated to St. Congan, is a very old foundation, having probably been established, in the seventh century, by a follower of St. Columba. It received donations at various early dates, amongst others one by King Robert the Bruce. In 1272 it was attached by the Earl of Buchan to an almshouse for thirteen poor husbandmen. The church was 120 feet long by 18 feet wide, but is now reduced to the fragment of the choir, crowned with the picturesque belfry shown by the sketches. The belfry (Fig. [1605]) is interesting as an example of the application to an ecclesiastical edifice of the Scottish style so general in

Fig. 1605.—Turriff Church.

Belfry.

the domestic architecture of the seventeenth century. There is a strong dash of Renaissance taste in the design; but the cornice with its small corbels, and the string course with its moulded supports, might be details from any old Scottish castle. The bell bears the date 1557. A curious relic of the older structure has, however, been discovered in the choir in the form of an antique wall-painting of St. Ninian.

The interior of the choir contains

Fig. 1606.—Turriff Church. Gateway to Courtyard.

a very interesting and remarkably picturesque series of monumental slabs, with a quantity of well-executed lettering. One of these tablets is to the memory of a member of the family of Barclay of Towie, of date 1636, with a Latin inscription still legible.

The churchyard contains a number of interesting monuments of the same date as the belfry.

The gateway to the churchyard (Fig. [1606]) is a simple but pleasing specimen of the early Scottish Renaissance, similar in style to the belfry.

WALSTON CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

The parish church of Walston stands on a height overlooking the vale of the river Medwin, about two miles west from Dolphinton. Till near the end of the thirteenth century the Church of Walston was a lay rectory in the gift of the Lord of the Manor. It is specially referred to in an award of 1293.[261] The edifice stands in an ancient churchyard, and not far from what was formerly a mansion known as the “Place of Walston.”

Fig. 1607.—Walston Church. Plan.

The existing church (Fig. [1607]) stands north and south, and is a long single chamber 64 feet 6 inches in length and 16 feet in width internally. A portion has been cut off the north end to form a vestry. The original church is believed to have stood east and west. At the south end a portion of the existing structure is evidently, from its workmanship, of a different period from the remainder. The ashlar work of which it is built is seen to stop beyond the first window from the south (Fig. [1608]). This was doubtless the wing or transept erected by Robert Baillie of Walston, in 1650, as a burial-place for his family. The remainder of the church was rebuilt in its new position in continuation of the south wing by the Rev. Patrick Molleson, minister (born 1746, died 1825), who has placed the letters M. P. M. and the date 1789 on the north gable.

Fig. 1608.—Walston Church. View from South-West.

The south wing is the only part worthy of notice. The window shows the feeling for the Gothic revival of the seventeenth century. In the panel over it is the inscription “Give God the onlie honour and glory.

Fig. 1609.—Walston Church, showing Dormer.

Anno 1656.” The entrance doorway to the wing, which contained a tomb below and a gallery above, is in the east side. Over the flat lintelled door is the quotation, “Keep thy foot when thou goest to the House of God, and be more ready to hear than to give the sacrifice of fools.—Ecclesiastes, chapter V., verse 1.” The tomb and gallery are now removed, and the space thrown into the church. In the pavement on the site is inscribed “In memory of John Allain, Esq., of Elsrickle.” The quaint dormer window, shown in Fig. [1609], was taken down during the repairs made on the church a few years ago.

WEEM CHURCH, Perthshire.[262]

The ruined church of Weem stands in the village of that name, near the entrance to Castle Menzies, at a short distance from Aberfeldy. It is still in a fair state of preservation, the walls being entire, although greatly overgrown with ivy, and the roof being still intact, with the belfry on the west gable. The building has been abandoned for many years. According to Mr. A. H. Millar[262] the Church of Weem is mentioned about 1296 in the oldest charter at Castle Menzies, and references in charters are continuous till, in 1510, the Barony of Menzies was erected by charter from James IV., when “the patronage of the Kirk of Weem was specially included in the gift.”

Fig. 1610.—Weem Church. Inscription over East Doorway.

The existing building, however, appears to be of a later date, since over the eastmost doorway there are the impaled arms of Sir Alexander Menzies and his wife, Margaret Campbell, with their initials, and the date 1600, together with the inscription shown in Fig. [1610].[263]

The church (Fig. [1611]) is an oblong building, measuring internally about 62 feet 5 inches from east to west by about 19 feet wide, and has a north transept projecting 21 feet by 17 feet in width. It is ceiled and plastered at the roof ties. There are two doors and three windows on the south side, all of which are square headed. In each gable, high up near the ceiling, there is a window of a pointed form. All the windows and doors have large bead mouldings. In the inside of the south wall there are two ambries, one of which contains the initials of Duncan Menzies and his wife, Jean Leslie, sister of the Earl of Rothes, who were married in 1623. And on the other occur the initials D. M.

There are several interesting grave slabs in the church, but the most remarkable feature is the monument shown in Fig. [1612], which stands against the north wall near the east end, as indicated on the Plan. It is an important example of Scottish Renaissance work, and contains a great amount of detail, much of it very elaborate.

The sixteenth or seventeenth century monuments in Scotland may be divided into two classes, viz.:—First, the class represented by the Montgomery monument at Largs,[264] and the seventeenth century monument in Seton Church, which are almost pure Italian, with very little of the previous Gothic manner, and almost nothing of local or Scottish feeling. Monuments of this class may probably be the design, if not the work, of foreign hands. In the second class are the monuments which seem to

Fig. 1611.—Weem Church. Plan.

owe their design and execution to native skill, and amongst these may be included this monument at Weem. The structure measures about 13 feet in length at the base, and has a projection from the wall of about 2 feet.

The general scheme of the design is of an ordinary form, consisting of an arched recess above a dado or pedestal, which is divided into three panels separated from each other by delicate tapering shafts. At each side rises a half round engaged shaft to carry the moulded arch above. These shafts have capitals, rudely carved with oak leaves, supporting square abaci. Above the arch there is a level cornice slightly broken at intervals over figures beneath. At each side of the monument a large figure stands on a finely designed pedestal, the one representing Faith and the other Charity. The former holds a book with the inscription, Quidquid fit sine Fide est peccatum, while the figure of Charity is represented in the usual typical manner. The figures are surmounted with very beautiful canopies reaching nearly up to the cornice. Above the cornice a rudimentary pediment contains the Menzies and Campbell arms and monograms, over which, and leaning forward, is a panel having a figure with

Fig. 1612.—Monument in Weem Church.

outstretched arms, supposed to symbolise the Creator. At each end of the cornice is a kneeling figure placed before a small pedestal shaped like a prie-dieu.

This monument having been erected not to the memory of one individual, but of several, was probably not intended to contain any recumbent figure, although the space for one is provided. Such a figure would have in a great measure concealed the descriptive tablet and its accompanying heraldry, which occupy the background of the recess. The monument bears the date of the 24th January 1616, and was erected by the Sir Alexander Menzies already referred to, to perpetuate the memory of his two wives and of his maternal ancestors, beginning with his great-great-grandmother. The names of all these ladies, with the arms of their respective houses, adorn the monument, and need not be repeated here, as full information regarding them will be found in Mr. Millar’s work, already cited.

YESTER CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

The parish church of Yester stands at the north end of the village of Gifford, about four and a half miles south of Haddington. The

Fig. 1613.—Gifford Tower, from South-West.

ancient church of Yester has already been described. It was superseded last century by the present structure, which is a plain oblong chamber of the usual style of the period, but with a tower on the south side (Fig. [1613]), which is a good example of that class of erection at the period.

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