Every attempt has been made to replicate the original as printed. No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the spelling of non-English words. Archaic spelllings (i.e. divers, ecstacy, graneries, asthetic, etc.) have been retained. Some typographical errors have been corrected; . In certain versions of this etext, in certain browsers, clicking on this symbol will bring up a larger version of the image. [Illustrations.]
[Contents.] (etext transcriber's note)





MONT ST. MICHAEL.

NASBY IN EXILE:
OR,
SIX MONTHS OF TRAVEL
IN
England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany,
Switzerland and Belgium,

WITH MANY THINGS NOT OF TRAVEL.
BY
DAVID R. LOCKE,
(Petroleum V. Nasby.)
———
PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.
———
TOLEDO AND BOSTON:
Locke Publishing Company.
1882.

COPYRIGHT,
1882,
By DAVID R. LOCKE.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Blade Printing and Paper Co.,
Printers and Binders,
TOLEDO, O.

PREFACE.

ON the afternoon of May 14, 1881, the good ship “City of Richmond,” steamed out of New York harbor with a varied assortment of passengers on board, all intent upon seeing Europe. Among these was the writer of the pages that follow.

Six of the passengers having contracted a sort of liking for each other, made a tour of six months together, that is, together most of the time.

This book is the record of their experiences, as they appeared originally in the columns of the Toledo Blade.

It is not issued in compliance with any demand for it. I have no recollection that any one of the one hundred thousand regular subscribers to the Toledo Blade ever asked that the letters that appeared from week to week in its columns should be gathered into book form. The volume is a purely mercantile speculation, which may or may not be successful. The publishers held that the matter was of sufficient value to go between covers, and believing that they were good judges of such things, I edited the letters, and here they are.

The ground we went over has been gone over by other writers a thousand times. We went where other tourists have gone, and what we saw others have seen. The only difference between this book and the thousands of others that have been printed describing the same scenes, is purely the difference in the eyes of the writers who saw them. I saw the countries I visited with a pair of American eyes, and judged of men and things from a purely American stand-point.

I have not attempted to describe scenery, and buildings, and things of that nature, at all. That has been done by men and women more capable of such work than I am. Every library in America is full of books of that nature. But I was interested in the men and women of the countries I passed through, I was interested in their ways of living, their industries and their customs and habits, and I tried faithfully to put upon paper what I saw, as well as the observations and comments of the party that traveled and observed with me.

I have a hope that the readers of these pages will lay the book down in quite as good condition, mentally and physically, as when they took it up, and that some information as to European life will result from its perusal. As I make no promises at the beginning I shall have no apologies to make at the ending.

It is only justice to say that much of the descriptive matter is the work of Mr. Robinson Locke, who was with me every minute of the time, and the intelligent reader will be perfectly safe in ascribing the best of its pages to his pen.

I can only hope that this work, as a book, will meet with the same measure of favor that the material did as newspaper sketches.

D. R. L.

Toledo, Ohio, June 29, 1882.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

No. Page
[1.][Frontispiece].
[2.]The Departure [18]
[3.]“Shuffle Board”[22]
[4.]The Betting Young Man from Chicago[24]
[5.]“Dear, Sea-sickness is only a Feminine Weakness,”[27]
[6.]Lemuel Tibbitts, from Oshkosh, Writes a Letter[29]
[7.]Every Sin I Had Committed Came Before Me[33]
[8.]Off for London[35]
[9.]Public Buildings, London[36]
[10.]The Indian Policy[39]
[11.]The Emetic Policy[39]
[12.]A London Street Scene[45]
[13.]A London Steak[50]
[14.]“And is the Them Shanghais?”[53]
[15.]Sol. Carpenter and the Race[60]
[16.]Leaving for the Derby[62]
[17.]By the Roadside[64]
[18.]English Negro Minstrelsy[66]
[19.]The Roadside Repast[67]
[20.]The Betting Ring[73]
[21.]“D——n the Swindling Scoundrel”[74]
[22.]Egyptian Room, British Museum[76]
[23.]A Bold Briton Trying the American Custom[79]
[24.]A London Gin Drinking Woman[80]
[25.]The Poor Man is Sick[81]
[26.]“That Nigger is Mine”[82]
[27.]St. Thomas Hospital[92]
[28.]Interior of a Variety Hall[95]
[29.]The Magic Purse[98]
[30.]The Man who was Music Proof[100]
[31.]Madame Tussaud[102]
[32.]Wax Figures of Americans[103]
[33.]“Digging Corpses is all Wrong”[105]
[34.]Improved Process of Burke and Hare[106]
[35.]Isle of Wight[107]
[36.]The London Lawyer[110]
[37.]The Old English Way of Procuring a Loan[118]
[38.]“Beware of Fraudulent Imitations”[120]
[39.]The Old Temple Bar[122]
[40.]The Sidewalk Shoe Store[125]
[41.]“Sheap Clodink”[127]
[42.]“Dake Dot Ring”[133]
[43.]A Lane in Camberwell[135]
[44.]The Tower of London[136]
[45.]The Jewel Tower[140]
[46.]Sir Magnus’ Men[142]
[47.]Horse Armory[144]
[48.]St. John’s Chapel [145]
[49.]St. Thomas’ Tower[146]
[50.]General View of the Tower[147]
[51.]The Bloody Tower[148]
[52.]Drowning of Clarence in a Butt of Wine[149]
[53.]The Byward Tower from the East[150]
[54.]The Beauchamp Tower[151]
[55.]The Overworked Headsman[152]
[56.]The Persuasive Rack[153]
[57.]The Byward Tower from the West[154]
[58.]The Middle Tower[155]
[59.]The Beef Eater[156]
[60.]The Flint Tower[157]
[61.]The Traitor’s Gate[158]
[62.]What Shall We Do with Sir Thomas?[159]
[63.]The Easiest Way[160]
[64.]The Suits Come Home[163]
[65.]The Candle Episode[168]
[66.]The Little Bill[169]
[67.]Getting Ready to Leave a Hotel[169]
[68.]The Last Straw[170]
[69.]The Cabman Tipped[170]
[70.]The Universal Demand[171]
[71.]The Lord Mayor’s Show[173]
[72.]A Second Hand Debauch[175]
[73.]The Anniversary Ceremonies[178]
[74.]In the Harbor[179]
[75.]Isle of Wight[182]
[76.]The Unfinished Entries in the Diary[184]
[77.]Westminster Abbey[186]
[78.]Exterior of the Abbey[187]
[79.]Entrance to the Abbey[188]
[80.]The Poet’s Corner[191]
[81.]Henry VII.’s Chapel[193]
[82.]Chapel of Edward[197]
[83.]Effigy Room[200]
[84.]The Abbey in Queen Anne’s Time[201]
[85.]“If She Ever Miscalculates She’s Gone,”[204]
[86.]The Death of the Trainer[206]
[87.]The Gorgeous Funeral Procession[207]
[88.]Monument to the Trainer[208]
[89.]The Side Show Zulu[210]
[90.]The Lost Finger[212]
[91.]On the Thames[218]
[92.]Sandwiches at New Haven[222]
[93.]Off Dieppe—Four A. M.[224]
[94.]“Have You Tobacco or Spirits?”[225]
[95.]Fisher Folk—Dieppe[227]
[96.]Fisher Women—Dieppe[228]
[97.]Fisher Boy and Child[229]
[98.]The Boys of Rouen[232]
[99.]Rouen[233]
[100.]The Professor Stood Before it[234]
[101.]Cathedral of Notre Dame[235]
[102.]House of Joan d’Arc[235]
[103.]Harbor of Rouen[236]
[104.]St. Ouen—Rouen[238]
[105.]The Showman in Paris[240]
[106.]Bloss’ Great Moral Spectacle[241]
[107.]Tower of St. Pierre[242]
[108.]Old Houses—Rouen[242]
[109.]The Professor’s Spectacles [245]
[110.]Old Paris[246]
[111.]Liberty, Fraternity, Equality[247]
[112.]New Paris[248]
[113.]The Louvre[250]
[114.]A Boulevard Cafe[252]
[115.]A Costume by Worth[253]
[116.]A Magazine on the Boulevard[254]
[117.]Mr. Thompson’s Art Purchases[256]
[118.]The American Party Outside a Cafe[259]
[119.]The Avenue de L’Opera[261]
[120.]Cafe Concerts[262]
[121.]The Faro Bankeress[266]
[122.]French Soldiers[267]
[123.]Parisian Bread Carriers[269]
[124.]Queer—to Frenchmen[271]
[125.]The Porte St. Martin[272]
[126.]A Very Polite Frenchman[275]
[127.]“Merci, Monsieur!”[277]
[128.]Paris Underground[279]
[129.]Interior of the Paris Bourse[280]
[130.]The Arc du Carrousel[282]
[131.]“How Long Must I Endure This?”[285]
[132.]Tail Piece[286]
[133.]The Mother of the Gamin as She Was[288]
[134.]The Mother of the Gamin in the Sere and Yellow Leaf[289]
[135.]The Aged Stump Gatherer[290]
[136.]A Talk with a Gamin[294]
[137.]The Mabille at Night[305]
[138.]A Mabille Divinity[306]
[139.]Professionals in a Quadrille[309]
[140.]A Male Dancer[310]
[141.]The Grisette[311]
[142.]Meeting of Tibbitts and the Professor[314]
[143.]The Cafe Swell[316]
[144.]Tail Piece[318]
[145.]Beauvais Cathedral[319]
[146.]Struggle for the Kingship[322]
[147.]Of the Commune[326]
[148.]Tibbitts and Faro Bankeress[330]
[149.]Tail Piece[331]
[150.]Palais Royal[333]
[151.]Vision of the Commune[335]
[152.]Mother and Bonne[337]
[153.]The Youthful Bonne[338]
[154.]The Aged Bonne[338]
[155.]“Who Put that Ribbon in your Cap?”[345]
[156.]Corrective Used by Mr. Tibbitts[348]
[157.]The Coco Seller[349]
[158.]In Any of the Parks[358]
[159.]The No-Legged Beggar Woman[360]
[160.]How the French Sport Kills Game[362]
[161.]Fishing in the Seine[363]
[162.]Inside a Paris Omnibus[364]
[163.]The Showman Shown the Door[365]
[164.]The Tell Catastrophe[368]
[165.]Zoological Room[369]
[166.]Cork Harbor[370]
[167.]Queenstown[371]
[168.]Irish Woman and Daughter[375]
[169.]A County Cork Cabin[377]
[170.]Interior of Better Class Cabin[378]
[171.]Royal Irish Constabulary[379]
[172.]Interior of Cabin[380]
[173.]A Quiver Full[381]
[174.]Street in an Irish Village[384]
[175.]Blarney Castle[385]
[176.]Free Speech in Ireland[387]
[177.]In a Bog Village[389]
[178.]“Drop the Child!”[391]
[179.]Nature’s Looking Glass[393]
[180.]Irishman of the Stage and Novel[394]
[181.]The Evicted Irishman[395]
[182.]To Market and Back[396]
[183.]The Real Irish Girl[397]
[184.]A Small but Well-to-do Farmer[398]
[185.]Sketches in Galway[402]
[186.]Affixing Notice of Eviction[406]
[187.]Eviction[407]
[188.]The Eviction we Saw[408]
[189.]Evicted[409]
[190.]Farming in County Mayo[410]
[191.]My Lord’s Agent[413]
[192.]Kind of a Girl My Lord Wants[414]
[193.]The Woman who Paid the Poor Rate[416]
[194.]Conemara Women[418]
[195.]At Work in the Bog[420]
[196.]Duke Leinster’s Tenants[422]
[197.]Tenant Farmer[424]
[198.]In a Discontented District[426]
[199.]Protecting a Gentleman Farmer[427]
[200.]Filling the Ditch[429]
[201.]Ready for Emigration[431]
[202.]Old but Tolerably Cheerful[433]
[203.]After a Wholesale Eviction[435]
[204.]The “Faymale Painther”[436]
[205.]Old and Not Cheerful[438]
[206.]The Proper End of Royalty[441]
[207.]Meath Lads at Crossakeel[443]
[208.]A Mayo Farmer[445]
[209.]Mayo Peasantry[447]
[210.]Inhabitants of a Bog Village[449]
[211.]Dublin[452]
[212.]They Glared Ferociously[456]
[213.]Bog Village[459]
[214.]Interior French Car[462]
[215.]They were Lively Children[464]
[216.]Geneva[466]
[217.]“Your Hotel is a Swindle, Sir”[474]
[218.]Group of Swiss Girls[480]
[219.]The Sweat of Other Men’s Brows[481]
[220.]The Alpine Guide[485]
[221.]A Non-Professional Lady Tourist[487]
[222.]Young Man with Inopportune Remarks[493]
[223.]“Would You Oblige Me?”[495]
[224.]“See Me Unmask this Jew”[497]
[225.]Swiss Timber Village[501]
[226.]The Slender Bridge[503]
[227.]A Bit of Climbing[504]
[228.]Where the Maiden Leaped From[511]
[229.]The Chamois[513]
[230.]Taking the Cattle to the Mountains[513]
[231.]Outside the Chalet[515]
[232.]Inside the Chalet[516]
[233.]An Alpine Homestead[519]
[234.]“I Should Wake Them Cheerily”[520]
[235.]On the Road to Chamonix[525]
[236.]The Presumed Chamois Hunter[530]
[237.]The Fate of Two Englishmen[532]
[238.]A Frequent Accident[533]
[239.]The Mer De Glace[534]
[240.]A Slip Toward the Edge[535]
[241.]Crevasses[536]
[242.]The Moraine[537]
[243.]The Dilemma[538]
[244.]Rocks Polished by Old Glaciers[539]
[245.]The Path to the Village[548]
[246.]Mt. Blanc and Valley of Chamonix[550]
[247.]The Conscientious Barber[555]
[248.]The Jungfrau[557]
[249.]Wood Carving[559]
[250.]Home of the Carver[560]
[251.]Female Costumes[562]
[252.]Our Party at the Giessbach[565]
[253.]Peasants of East Switzerland[567]
[254.]Near Brienz[568]
[255.]Lion of Lucerne[570]
[256.]End of Pontius Pilate[573]
[257.]Lucerne Rigi-Rail[575]
[258.]Ditto from Kanzell[576]
[259.]Old Way of Ascending Rigi[578]
[260.]Night Ascent of Rigi[579]
[261.]Railway up the Rigi[581]
[262.]Rigi Railway[582]
[263.]Railway up the Mountain[583]
[264.]Tell’s Chapel[584]
[265.]Tibbitts in Concert Hall[589]
[266.]Entrance Strasburg Cathedral[593]
[267.]Pig Market, Strasburg[596]
[268.]The Great Hall[606]
[269.]Tibbitts Making Plain the Point[608]
[270.]Front of the Kursale[612]
[271.]The Swimming Bath[614]
[272.]The Donkey Enjoyed It[616]
[273.]The Lichtenthal[617]
[274.]Promenade in Baden-Baden[618]
[275.]Charcoal Burners, Black Forest[619]
[276.]Heidelberg Castle[623]
[277.]Heidelberg Tun[626]
[278.]Tibbitts and the Students[629]
[279.]Rhine Steamer[630]
[280.]Mannheim[631]
[281.]Tibbitts in the Cloak Room[633]
[282.]Mayence[639]
[283.]Erchenheim Tower[640]
[284.]Roemer[640]
[285.]Luther’s Home[640]
[286.]Street on the Roemerberg[642]
[287.]The Jews’ Street[644]
[288.]“Der Hind Leg of a Helty Mule”[649]
[289.]Cologne Cathedral[651]
[290.]Death of Bishop Hatto[655]
[291.]Legend of the Cathedral[668]

CONTENTS.

Page
[CHAPTER I.]

The Departure—How the Passengers Amused Themselves—Sea-sickness—Tibbitts,of Oshkosh—The Storm

[17-35]
[CHAPTER II.]

London—The Englishman—A Few Statistics—The Climate—A Red-coatedRomance

[18-57]
[CHAPTER III.]

The Derby Races—Departure for the Derby—Sights and Scenes—Showsand Beggars—Betting

[58-76]
[CHAPTER IV.]

What the Londoners Quench their Thirst with—The Kind of Liquor—Tobacco—EarlyClosing

[77-90]
[CHAPTER V.]

How London is Amused—The London Theaters—An English Idea of aGood Time—Punch and Judy

[91-100]
[CHAPTER VI.]

Madame Tussaud—American Worthies

[101-107]
[CHAPTER VII.]

The London Lawyer—The Solicitor’s Bill

[108-112]
[CHAPTER VIII.]

English Capital—London Quacks—The London Advertiser

[113-122]
[CHAPTER IX.]

Petticoat Lane—The Home of Second-Hand—The Clothing Dealer—Diamonds—TheConfiding Israelite

[123-134]
[CHAPTER X.]

The Tower—The Royal Jewels—The Horse Armory—Interesting Relics—TheBeef-Eaters

[137-160]
[CHAPTER XI.]

Two English Nuisances—A Badly Dressed People—An English Hotel—TheEnglish Landlord

[161-172]
[CHAPTER XII.]

Portsmouth—Nelson’s Ship—In the Harbor—Tibbitts’ Diary

[174-185]
[CHAPTER XIII.]

Westminster Abbey—Seeing the Abbey—Warren Hastings—Epitaphs—ReligiousService—A Little History

[187-202]
[CHAPTER XIV.]

The American Showman—The Trainer’s Widow—Foggerty the Zulu

[203-212]
[CHAPTER XV.]

Richmond—The Star and Garter—Down the River

[213-219]
[CHAPTER XVI.]

From London to Paris—The Custom House—Normandy—The Cathedral—Onthe Way to Paris

[221-242]
[CHAPTER XVII.]

A Scattering View of Paris—Drinking in Paris—Wine and Whisky—TheNational Fête

[243-267]
[CHAPTER XVIII.]

Something About Parisians—French Cleanliness—The Polite French—TheDisgust of Tibbitts

[268-286]
[CHAPTER XIX.]

Parisian Gamin—Interview with a Gamin—A Contented Being

[287-299]
[CHAPTER XX.]

How Paris Amuses Itself—The Grand Opera—The Wicked Mabille—Gardensother than the Mabille—Tibbitts and the Professor

[300-318]
[CHAPTER XXI.]

The Louvre—Art in the Louvre—The Commune

[320-331]
[CHAPTER XXII.]

The Palais-Royal—A Tale of the Commune—The Wisdom of Therese—TheTwo Lovers

[332-345]
[CHAPTER XXIII.]

French Drinking—The Water of Paris—The Mild Swash

[346-351]
[CHAPTER XXIV.]

Parisian Living—The Market Woman—Parisian Washing—FemaleShop-keepers—The Career of Sam

[352-369]
[CHAPTER XXV.]

Ireland—Cork—The Jaunting Car—Another Cabin

[370-383]
[CHAPTER XXVI.]

Bantry—How My Lord Bantry Lives—The Real and the Ideal—SeveralDelusions—The Conversion of an Irish Lady

[384-401]
[CHAPTER XXVII.]

An Irish Mass Meeting—An Eviction—Boycotting—One Landlord whowas Killed—How he was killed—Patsey’s Dead

[403-518]
[CHAPTER XXVIII.]

Some Little History—The Question of Lease—A Foiled Landlord—BantryVillage—The Boatman and Nancy

[419-438]
[CHAPTER XXIX.]

England, Ireland, Scotland—Land Troubles in England—The RoyalFamily—The Palace and the Workhouse—Women’s Work

[439-460]
[CHAPTER XXX.]

Paris to Geneva—A Night on the Rail—Geneva—Affecting Anecdote—Piracyon Lake Erie—The Irate Guest—Too Much Music

[461-477]
[CHAPTER XXXI.]

Switzerland—The Rhone—A Geneva Bakery—Swiss Roads—FemaleClimbers—Ascent of Mont Blanc—A Useful Man at Last

[478-491]
[CHAPTER XXXII.]

Chillon—Tibbitts and the Jew—On the Lake

[492-501]
[CHAPTER XXXIII.]

From Geneva over the Alps—Mountain Climbing—Legend of theGorge—Martigny—A Swiss Cottage—Alpine Ascents

[502-517]
[CHAPTER XXXIV.]

Over the Alps—Tibbitts’ Idea—Dangers of Ascending Mt. Blanc

[518-529]
[CHAPTER XXXV.]

Going up the Mountain—The Mer de Glace—The Gorge—SomethingAbout Glaciers

[530-545]
[CHAPTER XXXVI.]

In Switzerland—Tibbitts’ Letter—Berne and Bears—Barbers

[546-555]
[CHAPTER XXXVII.]

Lake Thun and Beyond—Interlaken—Wood Carving—Geissbach

[556-568]
[CHAPTER XXXVIII.]

Lucerne and the Rigi—Up the Rigi—A Mountain Railway—The RigiKulm—Tell’s Chapel

[569-587]
[CHAPTER XXXIX.]

Zurich and Strasburg—Beer and Music—The Cathedral—The WonderfulClock

[588-604]
[CHAPTER XL.]

Baden-Baden—A Few Legends—Up the Mountain—To old Schloss

[605-621]
[CHAPTER XLI.]

Heidelberg—The Great Cask—The Students

[622-630]
[CHAPTER XLII.]

Mannheim—Opera—A Treatise on Treating

[631-639]
[CHAPTER XLIII.]

Frankfort-on-the-Maine—Red Tape—Jews’ Street—Lovely Gardens

[640-651]
[CHAPTER XLIV.]

Down the Rhine—Bingen—Mouse Tower—Tibbitts’ Romance

[652-663]
[CHAPTER XLV.]

Cologne—The Cathedral—Eleven Thousand Virgins—Home

[664-672]

TO
Charles A. B. Shepard,
The “Poetical Bookseller,”
This book is dedicated (without permission)
as a
Tribute to a most Reliable Friend,
a Thorough Business Man, and
One whose steady devotion to everything right and proper,
and whose
hatred for everything mean and disreputable,
was never questioned by any one
who knew him.