| CHAPTER I. |
| PAGE |
| VERA CRUZ AND PUEBLA | [1] |
| My former Mission—The present one—Why called Franco-American—VeraCruz—Railway from Vera Cruz to Mexico—Warm Region—TemperateRegion—Cordova—Orizaba—Maltrata—Cold Region—Esperanza—Pueblaand Tlascala—The Old Route. |
| CHAPTER II. |
| MEXICO | [17] |
| Her New Appearance—Moral Transformation—Public Walks andSquares—Suburbs—Railway—Monuments—Cathedral—S. Domingo—S.Francisco—La Merced—Hats à la S. Basilio—Suppression ofReligious Orders. |
| CHAPTER III. |
| THE INDIANS | [35] |
| El Salto del Agua—Netzahualcoyotl—Noche Triste—HistoricalJottings—Chapultepec—Indians—Chinampas—Legends—Anecdote—MexicanMuseum—Tizoc’s Stone, or Gladiator’s Stone—Yoke andSacrificial Stone—Holy War—Religious Cannibalism—AmericanCopper. |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| TULA | [75] |
| Journey to Tula—The Toltecs—Ancient Historians—Origins—Peregrinations—Foundationof Tula—Toltec Religion—ChiefDeities—Art—Industry—Measurement of Time—The Word Calli—Architecture. |
| CHAPTER V. |
| TULA. PYRAMID OF THE SUN. ANTIQUITIES OF TULA | [93] |
| Caryatides—Columns—Capitals—Carved Shell—Tennis-ring—Tlachtli—AncientBas-reliefs—Toltecs Portrayed—Historical Jottings—TheTemple of the Frog—Indian Vault—The Plaza—El Cerro delTesoro. |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| PALPAN AND THE TOLTECS | [104] |
| Aspect of the Hill—Mogotes—The Toltecs and their BuildingPropensities—A Toltec House—Antiquities—Fragments—Malacates—ToltecPalace—Toltec Organisation—Dress—Customs—Education—Marriage—Ordersof Knighthood—Philosophy—Religion—Future Life—Pulque—Endof the Toltec Empire—Emigration. |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| TEOTIHUACAN | [128] |
| Quotations—Pre-Toltec Civilisation—Egyptian and TeotihuacanPyramids Compared—General Aspect of the Pyramids—Cement Coatings—Tlatelesand Pyramids—Idols and Masks—Description byTorquemada—S. Martin’s Village—Pulque and Mezcal—S. Juan ofTeotihuacan. |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| TEOTIHUACAN (continued) | [141] |
| Ruins of a Teotihuacan Palace—Cemetery—Bull-Fighting—Pitsand Quarries—Excavations—A Toltec Palace—Ants—Ancient Tombs—SepulchralStone. |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| MOUNTAIN EXPLORATION | [152] |
| Travelling Companions—S. Lazarus Station—S. Anita—Ayotla—Tlalmanalco—Tenangodel Aire—Amecameca—A Badly Lighted Town—Rateros—Monte-Sacro—Volcaneros. |
| CHAPTER X. |
| TENENEPANCO AND NAHUALAC CEMETERIES | [163] |
| The Rancho of Tlamacas—A Funeral Station—Great Excitement—Ascent—Search—Tenenepanco—Camping—Tlacualero—Excavations—BodilyRemains—Toys—A Beautiful Cup—A Well-preserved Skull—MispayantlaGrotto—Amecameca—A Tumulus Explored—Expeditionto Iztaccihuatl—Nahualac—A Second Cemetery. |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| BELLOTE | [183] |
| Return to Vera Cruz—Toltec Cities—Quotations regarding AncientCities—Rio Tabasco at Frontera—S. Juan Bautista—Rio Gonzalèz—Canoas—Lagoons—BelloteIslands—Kjœkkenmœdings—Temples atBellote—Chronological and Ornamental Slabs—Las Dos Bocas—Cortez—RioSeco—Paraïso. |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| COMALCALCO | [194] |
| Description of Comalcalco—Fonda—Manners—Climate—Masks andFigures—Ruins—El Blasillo—Old Palaces Visited—Bricks and Bridges—CementedRoads—Great Pyramid and its Monuments—PalaceDescribed—Vases and Jicaras—Tecomates—Towers—Bas-reliefs—SmallPyramids and Temples—Reflexions—Disappearance of IndianPopulations—Return to S. Juan—Don Candido—El Carmen—A RichWood-cutter. |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| LAS PLAYAS AND PALENQUE | [211] |
| From S. Juan to Jonuta—S. Carlos—Indians and Alligators—LasPlayas and Catasaja—Stone Cross—Rancho at Pulente—Palenque—TheTwo Slabs in the Temple of the Cross—First Engravings—Acalaand Palenque from Cortez—Letter to the King—Palenque and Ocosingomentioned by Juarros—Explorations—The Palace—Façade andPyramids—Ornamentation on the Eastern Façade—An Old ReliefBrought to Light—Palenque Artists and their Mode of Working—Medallionsand Inner Passage—Reliefs in the Main Court—Apartmentsand Decorations—Inner Wing and Restoration—Western Façade—PalaceTower. |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| PALENQUE TEMPLES | [245] |
| Palenque a Holy City—Bas-reliefs—Rain and Fever—A GratefulCook—Temple of Inscriptions—Temple of the Sun—Temple of theCross No. 1—Temple of the Cross No. 2—Altars—Mouldings andPhotographs—Fire—Explorations—Fallen Houses—The Age of Treesin Connection with the Ruins—Recapitulation. |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| YUCATAN, MERIDA, AND THE MAYA RACE | [262] |
| Early Account of Yucatan—First Explorers: F. Hernandez deCordova, Juan de Grijalva—Cortez—Railroad—Henequen Estate—Merida—HistoricalJottings—Destruction of all the Documents by theHistorian Landa—Municipal Palace—Cathedral—The Conqueror’sHouse—Private Houses—Market Place—Maya Race—Types—Mannersand Customs of the Mayas—Deformation and Tattooing—Meztizas—Dwellings—Suburbs. |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| AKÉ AND IZAMAL | [288] |
| Departure—A Family Exploration—“Volan coché”—Tixpénal andTixkokob—Cenoté—Ruins of Aké—Historical Rectification—SmallPyramid—Tlachtli—A Large Gallery—Explorations—A Strange Theory—Picoté—Architectureof Yucatan at Different Epochs. |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| IZAMAL EN ROUTE FOR CHICHEN | [303] |
| Expedition to Izamal and Chichen-Itza—Brigands—Cacalchen—MarketPlace—Great Pyramid—Small Pyramid and Colossal DecorativeFigures—Cemented Roads—The Convent of the Virgin at Izamal—APrecarious Telegraph—Tunkas—Garrison—Quintana-Roo—An OldAcquaintance—Citas—A Fortified Church—Troops—Opening a Path—NativeEntertainment—Arrival at Pisté. |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| CHICHEN-ITZA | [323] |
| Chichen-Itza—El Castillo—General Survey—A Maya City—Aguilar—HistoricalJottings—Montejo’s Expedition—Historians—Their Contradictions—ChichenDeserted—The Conqueror’s Retreat—TheNunnery—Impressions and Photographs—Terrestrial Haloes—An UnexpectedVisitor—Electric Telegraph at Akab-Sib—Prison—Caracol—Cenotés—RuinedTemples—The Temple of the Sacred Cenoté—Tennis-Court—MonumentsDescribed—Portico—Paintings—Low-reliefs—NewAnalogy—The Tlalocs of Chichen and of the Uplands—Market-place—Endof Our Labours—Col. Triconis. |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| KABAH AND UXMAL | [371] |
| Departure for Ticul—Uayalceh—Mucuiche—Sacalun—An OldSouvenir—Ticul—Excavations at S. Francisco—Failure—Yucatec Vases—Entertainmentat the Hacienda of Yokat—A Sermon in Maya—Haciendaof Santa Anna—Important Remains—The Ruins of Kabah—MonumentsSurveyed—First Palace—Ornamental Wall—Cisterns—InnerApartments—Second Palace—Great Pyramid—Ancient WritersQuoted—Stephens’ Drawings. |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| UXMAL | [391] |
| From Kabah to Santa Helena—A Maya Village—Uxmal—Hacienda—TheGovernor’s Palace—Cisterns and Reservoirs—The Nunnery andthe Dwarf’s House—Legend—General View—“Cerro de los Sacrificios”—DonPeon’s Charter—Stephens’ Plan and Measurements—Friederichsthal—Conclusion—OurReturn. |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| CAMPECHE AND TENOSIQUÉ | [414] |
| From Progreso to Campeche—Incidents on Board—Carmen—OldAcquaintances—Indian Guns—Frontera—The Grijalva—TabascoPottery—Waiting—Carnival at Frontera—Julian’s Success—Departure—Jonuta—Monte-Cristo—Difficultiesat the Custom House—Cabecera—Tenosiqué—Reminiscences—Monteros—TheLacandones—Our MulesCome—The Usumacinta—Sea Fish—Setting out for the Ruins—Route—ForestCamping—Second Day—Traces of Monuments—Mule andHorse Lost—Cortez—Arroyo Yalchilan—Provisions left Behind—Crossingthe Cordillera—An Old Montero—Traces of Lacandones—YalchilanPass. |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| LORILLARD TOWN | [430] |
| Paso Yalchilan—Another Mule Lost—An Anxious Night—A WildBoar—Encampment—Upper Usumacinta—No Canoes—A Difficulty—Deliverance—Surprise—AMysterious Traveller—A Canoe—Fever—DownStream—A Votive Pillar—Ruins—I Meet with a Stranger—GeneralView of Lorillard—A Reminiscence—Stephens’ “PhantomCity”—Extent of the Ruins Unknown—Temple—Idol—Fortress—OurDwelling Palace—Great Pyramid—Second Temple—Stone Lintels andTwo Kinds of Inscriptions—Our Return—Lacandones. |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| PETEN, TAYASAL, TIKAL, AND COPAN | [459] |
| Departure from Peten—The River—The Sierra—Sacluc or Libertad—Cortez’Route—Marzillo’s Story—Flores—Ancient Tayasal—Conquestof Peten—Various Expeditions—The Town Captured—The InhabitantsDisappear—Monuments Described—Tikal—Early Explorers—Temples—Bas-reliefson Wood—Retrospection—Bifurcation of the Toltec Columnat Tikal—Tikal—Toltecs in Guatemala—Coban—Demolition of Copan—Quetzalcoatl—Transformationof Stone Altar Bas-reliefs into MonolithIdols—End of an Art Epoch—Map of Toltec Migrations. |
| CHAPTER XXIV. |
| TUMBALA. S. CRISTOBAL. MITLA | [482] |
| Return to Tenosiqué—S. Domingo del Palenque Revisited—Departurefor S. Cristobal—First Halt—No Tamenes—Setting outalone for Nopa—Bad Roads—No Food—Monkeys—Three Days Waitingat S. Pedro—The Cabildo—Hostile Attitude of the Natives—ThePorters Arrive—They make off in the Night—From S. Pedro to Tumbala—TwoNights in the Forest—Tumbala—The Cura—Jajalun—Chilon—Citala—ADominican Friar—Cankuk—Tenejapa—S. Cristobal—Valleyof Chiapas—Tuxtla—Santa Lucia—Marimba—Tehuantepec—Totolapa—Oaxaca—SantaMaria del Tule—Ruins of Mitla. |