Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

by Duke of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach Bernhard

VOL. II.

---

PHILADELPHIA:
CAREY, LEA & CAREY—CHESNUT STREET.

---

1828.

SKERRETT—NINTH STREET,
PHILADELPHIA.

TRAVELS, &c.

[CHAPTER XV.]

Journey to Charleston, and Residence in that City—from the 11th to the 19th of December, 1825.

On the 11th of December, we were prepared before five o’clock to travel in the mail stage from Columbia to Charleston, one hundred and twenty miles distant. Unfortunately, our coachman had, the evening before, involved himself in a quarrel with a watchman, who attempted to arrest his sable Dulcinea, and given him a stab with a knife. It was feared that the watchman, who was the father of a family, would die. The coachman was immediately taken into custody. We were, consequently, obliged to remain till seven o’clock, since the contractor of the mail stage was unable to find another white driver sooner, and according to law, no negro could convey the United States’ mail.

Our company was very pleasant; I especially remarked a Mr. Bacott, from Charleston, and young Mr. Ramsay, as being well-informed men. Three miles below Columbia, we crossed the Congaree in a wretched boat, and on the right bank of the river, passed through a little place called Granby, which formerly had been a German settlement, called Saxe-Gotha. The road was, without exception, sandy, swampy, and at times hilly. The stage travelled very slowly, and for the greater part of the way, I left it behind, being on foot. It was nearly a continued forest, composed mostly of pine and oak trees, from which the Spanish moss hung in such quantities, that the appearance was far from agreeable. The number of the magnolia, kalmia, and gardenia trees increased, and also of the yucca gloriosa, which until now were situated principally in the neighbourhood of the dwellings. We also saw more live oaks here, of which the timber is uncommonly excellent for ship-building, because it does not rot, and cannon-shot in striking it produce no splinters. Towards evening, we passed the village of Orangeburg, with wooden houses. We supped in a solitary house, and at the same time met the mail stage coming from Charleston, in which we took seats. It had been built for General La Fayette, and was named the La Fayette stage. We proceeded through the whole night: the day had been pleasant, the night, however, was extremely cold: I suffered considerably, as I sat upon the coach-box, where I always took my seat, for the advantage of free air and prospect.

We travelled during the forenoon of the 12th of December, constantly through a forest. The number of live oaks increased, and they were really beautiful. The solitary fan-like macaw trees, which we took notice of, were small. The yuccas multiplied every moment. The last place before reaching Charleston, was Dorchester. We then passed by an old church, nearly in ruins, called St. Andrews, which has survived since the time of the English government. It stands in the midst of a venerable church-yard, under lofty live oaks and hickories, with palmettoes and macaw trees growing between the graves. The whole had a picturesque aspect. The plantations succeeded each other more frequently, presented a more agreeable appearance, and every thing showed marks of the proximity of a large city. At length, in the afternoon, we left the continued forest, and entered upon an open swampy district. Charleston extended before us. The city, distinguished as a seaport, lies upon a tongue of land, formed by the rivers Ashley and Cooper: we crossed the Ashley to reach the city. A causeway, constructed of fascines, passes through the swamp to the ferry. The river is three-quarters of a mile broad; we crossed it in an eight-horse team-boat. A wooden bridge, which formerly crossed the river here, was destroyed by a severe storm, and never again rebuilt. Upon the right bank, in the vicinity of Charleston, an entirely novel spectacle expanded itself to my view. The houses of the suburb, were, for the most part, surrounded by gardens, in which orange trees, with most splendid ripe fruit, monthly roses in full bloom, and a variety of other flourishing plants displayed themselves. The greater part of the habitations have piazzas and spacious balconies. Upon the walls and columns run creeping vines, we took notice of a great number of passion flowers. I felt delighted with this southern climate.

Charleston has a population of forty thousand inhabitants, about twenty-five thousand of these are free. The city is regularly built, the streets cross each other at right angles. The smallest streets are paved, all have brick side-walks. The paving-stone is imported from the northern states, on this account it is an expensive article, and the paving of the streets can only be gradually effected. In the suburb we passed through a street which was a log causeway. The principal part of the houses are, it is true, built of wood, and all are, as I am told, covered with shingles, on account of the frequent prevalence of severe tempests; the more recent are, however, of brick, and in very good taste. I took up my abode in Jones’s Hotel, a well supported and finely situated house, whose host was a mulatto. I had the pleasure to meet here with Colonel Wool, inspector-general of the army, with whom I became acquainted in Washington. I moreover made acquaintance with Mr. Bee, an elderly gentleman who had travelled much, to whom I had letters; also the late governor of the state, Mr. Wilson, with his young and accomplished lady, from New York, who, besides her native language, spoke French, German, Spanish, and Italian, and understood Latin and Greek; lastly, Major Massias, army paymaster.

A severe catarrh obliged me to remain at home a whole day. The weather was also unpleasant and stormy; Fahrenheit’s thermometer had fallen to twenty degrees, which degree of cold is here extremely uncommon. In the meantime, I received visits from a number of the distinguished inhabitants: from Dr. Tidyman, whom I had known in Philadelphia; from Mr. Lowndes, to whom I had introductory letters; from Dr. Johnson, mayor of the city; from Messrs. Pitray and Viel, French merchants; from the Marquis De Fougères, French consul; from Mr. Bacott, with whom I had arrived yesterday, and from Major Massias. Some extremely interesting strangers were also in the hotel, so that I did not lack entertainment. The following was related to me:—Some years previous, the negroes of the country engaged in a conspiracy to murder all the white males, and spare none but the females. This design was found out, and it was discovered that the original projectors were free negroes out of the limits of the state, who travelled in the northern section of the union, and in part were become Methodist preachers. They had returned home and preached freedom to the slave population. Since that period the legislature of this state has adopted very severe precautionary laws against free negroes and mulattoes. One of them is, that no individual of this description, if he have once left the state, shall be permitted to return. The wife of our host, Jones, found herself in this predicament. She had undertaken a voyage to New York, her native city, and now dared not to attempt a return. On this account, I was informed, had I brought a free black servant with me, he would have been taken from me, and put in custody till I should have left the state, or I must deposit a considerable security for him.

I made my first excursion abroad in company with Colonel Wool and Major Massias, in a boat to Fort Moultrie, where the Colonel had to inspect two companies of the third regiment of artillery, lying there in garrison. This fort is situated at the entrance of Charleston Bay, upon a peninsula, Sullivan’s Island, which is connected with the continent by a marshy strip of land. The vessels running into the bay are compelled to pass within reach of the cannon of this fort. It is four miles distant from the city, and lies about half way from each extremity of the peninsula. Opposite is the coast battery, with a stone parapet. This battery can receive fifty pieces of cannon. There will be no further disbursements for the maintenance of this fort, since new works, after plans of General Bernard, are to be placed at the entrance of the passage, to guard against too close a blockade of the bay, so that the ancient and more retired posts will be deprived of all their importance. Between the city and Sullivan’s Island, on a point of land to the left, stands a defensive work called Castle Pinckney, resembling Castle Garden in New York, on the right is situated Castle Johnson. Sullivan’s Island is exceedingly sandy, nothing but cabbage trees grow upon it, so that I seemed transported to India. Outside the fort there are a number of slight built wooden houses, which, during the heats of summer, and especially when the yellow fever prevails in Charleston, are occupied by the inhabitants of that city, for the peninsula has the reputation of being healthier, and much more temperate in climate. The trunk of the cabbage-tree affords a good porous timber, which is peculiarly valuable for building in salt water, since it is not injured by it. It is highly recommended for entrenchments, as the balls of the enemy cannot splinter it. On the same spot where Fort Moultrie now stands, a fortress of the same name stood in the revolutionary war, which was built in great haste from trunks of the cabbage-tree, and maintained itself with great glory. We had a boat, attached to the artillery, prepared for our passage, which was manned by the artillerists. These are exercised as oarsmen in all posts situated on the water, and this is certainly a good arrangement, if the officers do not abuse the privilege. Our boat’s crew had unfortunately made too spirituous a breakfast, the oars of course moved as Providence guided them, and the colonel was so irritated, that he dispatched the whole six on landing to the black hole. I remained during the parade of the two artillery companies in garrison. A company of this description is with matrosses and cannoneers, fifty-five strong; from these are subtracted, the sentinels, sick, and those under arrest, so that both corps had scarcely sixty men under arms. The privates had fire-arms and cartridge boxes, and the matrosses and corporals alone carried side-arms. The haversack consisted of a wooden box, covered with black waxed linen. They wore grey pantaloons, and boots, as our artillery; the officers alone had white cloth pantaloons. The coats were not well made, and did not fit; all the men had large shirt collars, which had a bad effect, and gloves of a different pattern, because each individual bought for himself. While the colonel was going through the inspection, I took a walk on the ramparts with Major Massias, and visited the officer’s quarters. In the chamber of a lieutenant, in which we stopped, I found, besides the books belonging to service, a small library of English belles lettres, and classical poets.

Charleston keeps in pay a company of police soldiers, who during the night occupy several posts. They have their guard house near Jones’s Hotel, and I was startled to hear the retreat and reveillé beat there. This corps owes its support to the fear of the negroes. At nine o’clock in the evening a bell is sounded; and after this no negro can venture without a written permission from his master, or he will immediately be thrown into prison, nor can his owner obtain his release till next day, by the payment of a fine. Should the master refuse to pay this fine, then the slave receives twenty-five lashes, and a receipt, with which he is sent back to his master!

The market consists of five houses, in a long street ending upon the harbour, and resemble somewhat those of the Philadelphia market. The quantity of the most beautiful tropical fruit therein arranged, oranges from Florida, pistachios, and large excellent pine apples from Cuba, interested me much. These large and delicious fruit cost only twelve and a half cents each, of course a dollar for eight. There were nuts of various descriptions; many sorts of potatoes, cabbages, and white and red radishes. Fish were not presented in so great a variety as I expected. Of shell-fish, I saw oysters only, which are roasted in the shell at market, and consumed by the negroes with great avidity. Upon the roofs of the market houses sat a number of buzzards, who are supported by the offals. It is a species of vulture, black, with a naked head. Seen from a distance they resemble turkeys, for which reason they are denominated turkey-buzzards. They are not only suffered as very useful animals, but there is a fine of five dollars for the killing of one of these birds. A pair of these creatures were so tame that they crept about in the meat market among the feet of the buyers.

Accompanied by Dr. Johnson, Mr. Lowndes, and Dr. Tidyman, I visited the public institutions of the city. The Court-house, in which the different courts of justice hold their sessions, contains nothing remarkable with the exception of the City Library in the upper story, established by subscription. I noticed in this a beautiful collection of copperplates from the Shakspeare Gallery, and a sketched plan of Charleston with the investment of it in the revolutionary war. Since this epoch the city has much extended itself. On the localities, which then were occupied by fortifications, houses are now standing. The morasses which covered the left wing of these works, are filled up level with earth, and no trace of them is perceivable.

In the City Hall, the lower story is occupied by one large saloon. It is appropriated to the sittings of the city police. Above it are arranged the meeting rooms of the magistracy and various separate offices. In one of these apartments I noticed an elegant new plan of the city, designed by an emigrant French engineer, Mr. Petitral.

The Orphan-house is a brick building, three stories high, erected by voluntary contributions, and in it, one hundred and thirty-six children of both sexes are supported. I was surprized at the exceeding cleanliness pervading the whole establishment. The children sleep upon the floor, and the girls and sick only are allowed mattresses; the boys have a woollen coverlet, in which they wrap themselves. I was informed that this was done from fear of vermin. A very nourishing diet, and a truly maternal care, preserve the children healthy. At their twelfth year, they are provided for abroad to enable them to earn their own subsistence. Many of the boys enter into the United States navy, and it has been reported to me that two of the pupils of this institution have attained the rank of officers. Behind the house is a moderately large chapel, in the midst of the garden. The clergy of all Christian professions can hold divine service here every Sunday afternoon; in the mornings, the service in turn is taken charge of by a superintendent. In front of the building is a large open square. In it stands an ill-preserved statue of Lord Chatham, which was erected by the then colony of South Carolina, before the breaking out of the American revolution, in memory of that great man, in gratitude for the opposition he maintained against colonial taxation. An inscription on the statue mentions this. During the siege, it stood at the corner of the street, near the City Hall. There it lost an arm by one of the first English balls that struck the city.

The state prison is a small building. The prisoners are too much crowded together, and have no employment. The atrocious criminals live in the upper story, and are immured two together in a cell, without ever being permitted to come into the open air. This is allowed only to those dwelling in the first story, consisting of debtors, and persons who are imprisoned for breaches of the peace. The walls within, as well as the flooring, are of strong oak wood. In each apartment is an iron ring in the floor, for the purpose of securing dangerous prisoners. In the upper story there is a negro confined, who, implicated in one of the late conspiracies, had not committed himself so far as to allow of his being hung; nevertheless, his presence appeared so dangerous to the public tranquillity, that he is detained in prison till his master can find some opportunity to ship him to the West Indies, and there sell him. In another room was a white prisoner, and it is not known whether he be an American or Scotchman, who involved himself by his writings deeply in the last negro conspiracy. The prisoners received their food while we were present: it consisted of very good soup, and three-quarters of a pound of beef. Upon the ground floor is the dwelling of the keeper, who was an Amsterdam Jew, and the state-rooms in which gentlemen, who are lodged here, receive accommodation for money and fair words. The cleanliness of the house was not very great; upon the whole it left an unfavourable impression upon me.

I found the other prison, destined for the punishment of minor offences of the negro slaves, in a better condition. In it there were about forty individuals of both sexes. These slaves are either such as have been arrested during the night by the police, or such as have been sent here by their masters for punishment. The house displays throughout a remarkable neatness; black overseers go about every where armed with cow-hides. In the basement story there is an apparatus upon which the negroes, by order of the police, or at the request of their masters, are flogged. The latter can have nineteen lashes inflicted on them according to the existing law. The machine consists of a sort of crane, on which a cord with two nooses runs over pullies; the nooses are made fast to the hands of the slave and drawn up, while the feet are bound tight to a plank. The body is stretched out as much as possible, and thus the miserable creature receives the exact number of lashes as counted off! Within a year, flogging occurs less frequently: that is to say, a tread-mill has been erected in a back building of the prison, in which there are two tread-wheels in operation. Each employs twelve prisoners, who work a mill for grinding corn, and thereby contribute to the support of the prison. Six tread at once upon each wheel, while six rest upon a bench placed behind the wheel. Every half minute the left hand man steps off the tread-wheel, while the five others move to the left to fill up the vacant place; at the same time the right hand man sitting on the bench, steps on the wheel, and begins his movement, while the rest, sitting on the bench, uniformly recede. Thus, even three minutes sitting, allows the unhappy being no repose. The signal for changing is given by a small bell attached to the wheel. The prisoners are compelled to labour eight hours a day in this manner. Order is preserved by a person, who, armed with a cow-hide, stands by the wheel. Both sexes tread promiscuously upon the wheel. Since, however, only twenty-four prisoners find employment at once on both wheels, the idle are obliged in the interval to sit upon the floor in the upper chambers, and observe a strict silence. One who had eloped several times from a plantation, was fastened by a heavy iron ring, that passed over his leg to the floor. To provide against this state of idleness, there should be another pair of tread-wheels erected. The negroes entertain a strong fear of the tread-mills, and regard flogging as the lighter evil! Of about three hundred and sixty, who, since the erection of these tread-mills, have been employed upon them, only six have been sent back a second time.

The poor-house, an old building raised by subscription, contains one hundred and sixty-six paupers. It will only admit such poor persons as are completely disabled. Those who can labour a little can obtain the employment they desire, and then receive good attendance and proper support. The sick were taken care of in a distinct infirmary, where each had a separate bed. The healthy slept upon the floor. I enquired why the sick were not provided with iron bedsteads in place of the wooden ones they occupied? and was informed that it was from apprehension of the prevailing severe thunder-storms.

Connected with the Poor-house is a Magdalen Asylum, which provides shelter and care for thirty unfortunate beings. It struck me forcibly, as I saw under an open shed in the yard where the poor walked about, the dead cart, and close by it numbers of empty coffins piled up together, that the scene might be very well introduced in a monastery of the order of La Trappe.

A medical school is to be built not far from the poor-house. Until the completion of this structure, the students, one hundred and twenty in number, receive their instruction in a wooden building, in which there are arranged an amphitheatre, and a chemical laboratory.

Dr. Tidyman and Mr. Lowndes had the politeness to show me a rice mill established a few years ago. This mill is the property of Mr. Lucas, who has fixed a similar one in the neighbourhood of London. Rice is known as the staple article of produce of the lowlands in South Carolina, and yet there was no mill hitherto to free the rice from its husk, and to prepare it for use or export. This mill is situated near the river Ashley. The schooner that conveys the rice from the plantation, lies directly before it, a cart is taken on board the vessel filled with rice, and by means of an inclined plane drawn into the mill, where it is deposited. Hence the rice is drawn to the upper story, in which it is cleared of dust by a fan, and passed between two large mill-stones which frees the hull from the grain. It is then placed in a cylinder of bolting cloth. By this it is further cleaned from all the hull. Now it comes into the trough, where it is beaten by heavy hammers faced with tin, and by that means is completely cleaned. It is once more conveyed into a bolting cylinder, where, by another series of revolutions, it is freed from the slightest dust, and shook through a tube into the tierces placed for packing. The tierces stand upon a trunnel, which whirls round while a hammer continually strikes upon it. Such a tierce in this way receives six hundred pounds of rice. The machinery is to be set in motion in future by a steam-machine of twenty-four horse-power. It is wonderful, however, that the best steam-engines must be made in England to supply a country that has numbered Robert Fulton among her citizens!

Dr. Tidyman honoured me with a dinner, at which I met several of the distinguished inhabitants of the place, as Mr. Lowndes, Major Garden, son of that Scotch physician to whose honour Linnæus has given the name of Gardenia to a class of plants; Mr. J. Allen Smith, who passed seventeen years of his life in Europe, principally in Russia, and enjoyed the especial favour of the Emperor Alexander; he was present at my brother’s marriage, and enquired after him in the most ardent manner. This extremely amiable and interesting man has lost the greater part of his property. Here also I met with the Marquis de Fougères, Mr. Viel, and the English Consul, Mr. Newman. After dinner was over, a numerous company of gentlemen and ladies assembled, who remained in society through the evening. We had music, some of which was very good.

In one of my strolls through the city, I talked with a person from Erfurt, Mr. Siegling, who had established a music store here, and appeared to do very good business. I saw at his residence several handsome English harps and piano fortes; also several wind instruments of different kinds. He pricks the notes himself on tin, and has a press with which he prints them.

In Charleston there exists among the Germans, and their descendants, who for the most part are tradesmen of small capital, but persons of great respectability, a Friendly German Society.

On Sunday the 18th of December, two members of this Society, the militia Colonel Sass, a native Hessian, who had already passed fifty-two years in this country, and Mr. Strohhecker, came to take me to the Lutheran church. The Lutheran preacher, Mr. Bachman, a native of Troy, in the State of New York, administered divine service in the English language. The church has been built but a few years. It is simple within, but in very good taste. The organ is good, and was well played, and the hymns sung in unison by the congregation. Mr. Bachman delivered an excellent sermon upon the story of Cornelius, from the Acts of the Apostles. Afterwards he detailed a report of a journey of about eight hundred miles, which he had performed through the interior of this state, for the purpose of examining the condition of the various Lutheran congregations. The report upon churches and schools appeared very favourable. This service displayed so much benevolence, and real goodness, that I felt truly edified.

Upon the following day I was accompanied by Mr. Bacott and his brother-in-law, to St. Michael’s episcopal church, to see the building, and particularly the steeple, one hundred and eighty-six feet high. We mounted two hundred and thirty-six steps, and enjoyed a very handsome prospect over the regular built city, the bay, and adjacent country. The bay, with its protecting forts, showed to great advantage; the surrounding district not so agreeably, it being very level and overgrown with wood. In the city several buildings reared their heads, among others, the churches, and there are here twenty-two churches belonging to various sects, then the orphan-house and custom-house. St. Michael’s church contains in itself nothing worthy of remark, if you except some simple funeral tablets. The churches, moreover, stand in the centre of burial grounds, and the custom still prevails, so injurious to health, of entombing the dead in the city.

On the same day, the last of my stay in Charleston, I was present at a dinner which the German Friendly Society gave in compliment to me, having invited me by a deputation. The party met at half past three o’clock. The company was composed, with the exception of the mayor, Dr. Johnson, of more than sixty persons, for the most part Germans or of German origin. It was assembled in a house belonging to the society, in which, besides the large assembly room, was also a school for the children of the members, and the dwellings of the preceptors. The society was instituted in the year 1766, the principal founder was Captain Kalteisen, a native Wirtemburger, who had raised a volunteer corps of fusileers from the Germans then living there, with which he not only distinguished himself in the defence of Fort Moultrie against the English, but also personally, during the whole war, rendered the most important services as adjutant quarter-master-general in the staff of the southern army. The company of fusileers always preserved their connection with the German Society. Kalteisen himself died in the year 1807, as commandant of Fort Johnson; he was so attached to this German association, that he had himself buried in the yard of the building, the bricks of the pavement mark the form of his coffin over it, and a tablet of marble in the hall contains an inscription to the memory of the deceased. In the great hall, his portrait hangs next to that of Colonel Sass, who after him commanded the company, and of a Wormser, named Strobel, who was a joint founder of the society, and whose sons and nephew appeared at table. Two brothers, Messrs. Horlbeck, presided at the dinner, which was very well arranged. They had the politeness to nominate me an honorary member of the society, and to present me their laws for my signature; under them were here and there crosses only. Several of the usual toasts were given out; my health being drank, I returned my thanks in the German language. There was also singing. The melody was guided by an old Mr. Eckhardt, a Hessian that had come to America with the Hessian troops, as a musician, and remained here. He is now organist of one of the churches, and three of his sons occupy the same station in other churches. The German society possesses, moreover, a library, which owes its origin to donations. In the school-room there was a planetarium, very neatly finished, set in motion by clock-work.

[CHAPTER XVI.]

Journey from Charleston, through Augusta, Milledgeville, Macon, and the country of the Creek Indians, to Montgomery, in the State of Alabama.

My design had been to travel from Charleston to Savannah. I understood, however, that the stage to Savannah was very bad; that the steam-boat went very irregularly; that Savannah had lost its importance as a place of trade, and on the whole, contained nothing worthy of observation. As this tour would cost me many days, and a circuitous route, I resolved to relinquish the visit to Savannah, and betake myself the nearest way to Augusta, one hundred and twenty-nine miles distant; thence by Milledgeville through the Creek Indians, to go into the state of Alabama. Colonel Wool liked my plan, as also did Mr. Temple Bowdoin, an Anglo-American, a very polished man, who had travelled, and who in his younger days served in the British army. We had engaged the mail stage for ourselves alone, and in it left Charleston on the 20th of December.

We passed Ashley river at the same place, and in the same team-boat, as I did eight days back. It was at low ebb, and many oyster banks were exposed dry. This was a novel spectacle to me. The oysters stood straight up, close together, and had somewhat the appearance of a brush. Several negroes were employed in taking them out of the mud, in baskets. Even on the piers of the bridge, many oysters were sticking fast. On the opposite shore the road ran through a country generally woody, but partly ornamented with plantations. Several of these plantations are pretty, commonly an avenue of ancient, well preserved live oaks, leads up to the mansion-house, at the entrance of which a grated gate is placed. Maize and cotton are planted here, and in some places also rice, which is the staple of the lower part of South Carolina. The rice fields must stand several months of the year under water. On this account they are situated in swampy districts, and surrounded by ditches of water. But in consequence of this, these places are so unhealthy, that hardly a white planter can remain during the summer on his plantation; he is obliged to resort to Charleston, or the northern states. The climate of Charleston is such, that whoever is there in the beginning of the hot season, dares not to sleep a single night during the continuance of it, upon a plantation, without exposing his life to imminent danger. The blacks are the only human beings on whom this deadly climate has no bad effect, and they are, therefore, indispensable for the cultivation of this district. The vegetation was again extremely beautiful, noble live oaks, laurel trees, magnolias, cabbage and macaw trees. The road ran upon light bridges over small rivers, on the banks of which negroes were busied in angling. We saw the family of a planter in an elegant boat, manned by six black oarsmen, rowing to their plantation. In a large inn, which was itself the mansion-house of a plantation, we found a particularly good dinner. In the evening we crossed the Edisto river in a narrow ferry-boat, for the arrival of which we were obliged to delay a long time. The soil was mostly very sandy, partly also marshy, and the jolting log causeways made us tired of our lives. On this side of the river we arrived at the village of Edisto. We travelled through the whole night, and I suffered much from the cold in my airy seat. Otherwise, it was a clear moonlight, and if it had been a little warmer would deserve the appellation of a fine night. We changed our stage during the night, but gained nothing.

The succeeding morning exhibited all the ponds of water covered with a crust of ice. We passed the Salkechee and Cambahee rivers upon bridges, and noticed nothing worthy of observation. The vegetation was less beautiful than on the preceding day; the plantations were also less considerable. At a new plantation, at which we arrived about break of day, I spoke to the overseer of the negroes. The man’s employment I recognised from his whip, and from the use he made of it, in rousing up the negroes to make a fire. He told us that in the district, where the plantation was situated, and where maize and cotton were planted, but a little time before there was nothing but forest; his employer had commenced in 1816, with two negroes, and now he possessed one hundred and four, who were kept at work in clearing the wood, and extending the plantation. The cotton crop was finished in most of the fields, and cattle were driven in, to consume the weeds and tops of the bushes. We passed several mill-ponds, and saw some saw-mills. Only pine trees appeared to flourish in this part of the country; upon the whole, it was hilly, and the progress was tedious through the deep sand. We passed the river Savannah three miles from Augusta, in a little ferry-boat. The left bank appeared here and there to be rocky, and pretty high; the right is sandy. When we crossed the river, we left the state of South Carolina, and entered that of Georgia, the most southern of the old thirteen United States, which in fifty years have grown to twenty-four in number. We reached Augusta in the evening at nine o’clock, on a very good road, a scattered built town of four thousand six hundred inhabitants, of both complexions. We took up our quarters in the Globe Hotel, a tolerable inn; during the whole day it was very clear, but cold weather, in the evening it froze hard. The old remark is a very just one, that one suffers no where so much from cold as in a warm climate, since the dwellings are well calculated to resist heat, but in nowise suited to repel cold.

We were compelled to remain in Augusta during the 22d of December, as the mail stage for the first time went to Milledgeville on the following day, and Colonel Wool had to inspect the United States’ arsenal here, which contained about six thousand stand of arms for infantry. We understood that Mr. Crawford, formerly embassador of the United States, in Paris, afterwards secretary of state, and lastly, candidate for the office of president, was here at a friend’s house. We therefore paid him a visit. Mr. Crawford is a man of gigantic stature, and dignified appearance; he had a stroke of apoplexy about a year since, so that he was crippled on one side, and could not speak without difficulty. To my astonishment, he did not speak French, though he had been several years an envoy in Paris. They say, that Mr. Crawford’s predecessor in Paris, was chancellor Livingston, this gentleman was deaf; both Livingston and Crawford were introduced to the Emperor Napoleon at the same time; the emperor, who could carry on no conversation with either of them, expressed his surprise, that the United States had sent him a deaf and dumb embassy. I likewise reaped very little profit from Mr. Crawford’s conversation. As he was an old friend of Mr. Bowdoin, almost all the benefit of it fell to his share, and I addressed myself chiefly to his daughter, and one of her female friends, who were present. Much indeed was to be anticipated as the result of a conversation with the daughter of such a statesman. She had been educated in a school of the southern states. My conclusion was, the farther south I advanced, so much the firmer am I convinced that the inhabitants of these states suffer in comparing their education with those of the north. To conclude, Mr. Crawford was the hero of the democratic party, and would, in all probability, have been chosen president in the spring of 1825, had not his apoplectic attack supervened. On account of his indisposition, General Jackson was pushed before him; and so much was brought forward against the individual character of this person in opposition, that the present incumbent, Adams, on that account, succeeded.

The city of Augusta is very regularly built. The main street is about one hundred feet wide, it contains many brick houses, and good-looking stores. None of the streets are paved, but all have brick foot-paths. A wooden bridge, three hundred and fifty yards long, and thirty feet wide, crosses from the neighbourhood of the city, to the left bank of Savannah river, the city lies on the right bank. Along the bank is erected a quay in the manner of a terrace, which is one of the most suitable that I have seen; for it is accommodated to the swell of the river, which often rises above twenty feet. It has three terraces. The lower one has a margin of beams, mostly of cypress timber, at which, in the present uncommon low stage of the water, the vessels are loaded. From the second terrace, (which as well as the upper one, has a brick facing,) are wooden landings reaching to the edge of the under terrace, by which, at higher stages, the vessels may land there. The upper terrace is paved with large stones, which are quarried above the city. The quay, as well as the landings, belong to the State Bank of Georgia: the landings produce fifteen per cent. annually.

Augusta is the depôt for the cotton, which is conveyed from the upper part of Georgia by land carriage, and here shipped either to Savannah or Charleston. We noticed a couple of vessels of a peculiar structure, employed in this trade. They are flat underneath, and look like large ferry-boats. Each vessel can carry a load of three hundred tons. The bales of cotton, each of which weighs about three hundred pounds, were piled upon one another to the height of eleven feet. Steam-boats are provided to tow these vessels up and down the stream, but on account of the present low state of the water, they cannot come up to Augusta. I was assured that year by year between fifteen and twenty thousand bales of cotton were sent down the river. The state of South Carolina, to which the left bank of the river belongs, was formerly compelled to make Augusta its depôt. To prevent this, Mr. Schulz, a man of enterprise, originally from Holstein, has founded a new town, called Hamburg, upon the left bank of the river, close by the bridge, supported, as is said, by the legislature of South Carolina with an advance of fifty thousand dollars. This town was commenced in the year 1821, and numbers about four hundred inhabitants, who are collectively maintained by the forwarding business. It consists of one single row of wooden houses, streaked with white, which appear very well upon the dark back ground, formed by the high forest close behind the houses. Nearly every house contains a store, a single one, which comprised two stores, was rented for one thousand dollars. Several new houses were building, and population and comfort appear fast increasing. The row of houses which form the town, runs parallel with the river, and is removed back from it about one hundred and fifty paces. Upon this space stands a large warehouse, and a little wooden hut, looking quite snug, upon the whole, with the superscription “Bank.” A Hamburg bank in such a booth, was so tempting an object for me, that I could not refrain from gratifying my curiosity. I went in, and made acquaintance with Mr. Schulz, who was there. He appears to me to be a very public-spirited man, having been one of the most prominent undertakers of the landings and quay of Augusta. It is said, however, that he only accomplishes good objects for other people, and realizes nothing for himself. He has already several times possessed a respectable fortune, which he has always sunk again by too daring speculations. This Hamburg bank, moreover, has suspended its payments, and will not resume business till the first of next month. On this account, it was not possible for me to obtain its notes, which, for the curiosity of the thing, I would gladly have taken back with me to Germany.

On the 23d December we left Augusta, about four o’clock, by moonlight, and the weather pretty cold, in the miserable mail stage, which we had engaged for ourselves. It went for Milledgeville, eighty-six miles distant from Augusta. The road was one of the most tedious that I had hitherto met with in the United States; hilly, nothing but sand, at times solitary pieces of rock, and eternal pine woods with very little foliage; none of the evergreen trees and the southern plants seen elsewhere, which, new as they were to my eye, had so pleasantly broke the monotony of the tiresome forests through which I had travelled from the beginning of December; even the houses were clap-board cabins. Every thing contributed to give me an unfavourable impression. The inhabitants of Georgia are regarded in the United States under the character of great barbarians, and this reputation appears really not unjustly conferred. We see unpleasant countenances even in Italy: but here all the faces are haggard, and bear the stamp of the sickly climate.

To the cold weather which we had for several days, warm temperature succeeded to-day. We were considerably annoyed by dust. Besides several solitary houses and plantations, we encountered two little hamlets here, called towns, Warrenton and Powelton, this last lies upon Great Ogechee river, over which passes a wooden bridge. We stopped at Warrenton. The court of justice is in the only brick house of the place: close by it stands the prison, or county gaol, a building composed of strong planks and beams nailed together. Between Warrenton and Powelton, we had a drunken Irishman for our driver, who placed us more than once in great danger. This race of beings, who have spread themselves like a pestilence over the United States, are here also, and despised even by the Georgians. We travelled again all night; it was, however, not so cold as the nights previous. Towards midnight, we reached a trifling place called Sparta. We were obliged to stop here some time, as the stage and horses were to be changed. We seated ourselves at the fire-place in the tavern. All of a sudden there stood betwixt us, like an evil genius, a stout fellow, with an abominable visage, who appeared to be intoxicated, and crowded himself in behind Mr. Bowdoin. I addressed this gentleman to be on guard for his pockets. The ruffian made a movement, and a dirk fell from his sleeve, which he clutched up, and made off. They told me that he was an Irishman, who, abandoned to liquor, as most of his countrymen were, had no means of subsistence, and often slunk about at night to sleep in houses that happened to be open. Most probably he had intended to steal. We then obtained another driver, whom, from his half drunkenness and imprecations, I judged to be a son of Hibernia, and was not deceived.

On the 24th December, we left this unlucky Sparta at one o’clock in the morning. The driver wished very much to put a passenger in the stage with us, which we prevented. Vexed by this, he drove us so tediously, that we spent full eight hours going twenty-two miles to Milledgeville, and did not therefore reach there until nine in the morning. Immediately after leaving Norfolk, and travelling in the woods where there was little accommodation for travellers, we had every night seen bivouacs of wagoners or emigrants, moving to the western states—the backwoods. The horses of such a caravan are tied to the side of the wagon, and stand feeding at their trough; near the wagon is a large fire lighted up, of fallen or cut timber. At this fire the people sleep in good weather, in bad, they lay themselves in or under the wagon. After leaving Augusta we encountered several of these bivouacs, which consist partly of numerous families with harnessed wagons. They intended to go to Alabama, the district of country lately sold by the United States, and there to set themselves down and fall to hewing and building. I saw three families sitting on a long fallen tree, to which they had set fire in three places. These groups placed themselves in a very picturesque manner; but their way of acting is very dangerous. The night before we saw the woods on fire in three different directions, and the fire was without doubt occasioned by such emigrants as these. The lofty pine trees look very handsome while burning, when they are insulated, but the owner of the forest has all the trouble attending it to himself.

The country which we passed through towards morning was hilly, the bottom constantly sandy, towards the last, mixed with clay and rock. The trees were nothing but long-leafed pines. Close by Milledgeville, we crossed the Oconee river on a bridge that had been finished but a few days, and which rested on wooden piles. Until now the river was passed by a ferry-boat. Both shores are very high and steep, so that going in and coming out were attended with great difficulty.

Milledgeville lies upon elevated ground, the town is very regularly built, its broad streets are right-angled, they are, however, unpaved. It numbers about three thousand inhabitants of both complexions. It was established about twenty years ago, and increased very rapidly from its commencement, as it is the capital of the state of Georgia, and the seat of the legislature. Its increase is now calculated to be checked, since the story goes that the seat of government will be changed to the newly-founded town of Macon, or when the state has conquered congress in the cause yet depending before that body, and part of the Creek Indians territory is obtained, then it will be placed at Athens, where the university of the state is situated. We took up our residence at La Fayette Hall, a large tavern.

Soon after our arrival, I took a walk through the town. It contains mostly wooden houses, but they were good and even elegantly built, good stores, also a bookseller’s shop, and several printing presses. There are published here four gazettes, which a little while since were exceedingly active on the sides of the two parties who oppose each other in the state. One party is that of Governor Troup, who, from his discussions with the United States concerning the Creek territory, and on account of his warmth in his official correspondence, has become noted; the other is the party of the former governor, General Clark, who is, in all appearance, a very mild man, and very much respected by sensible and well-disposed persons. At the last election of the governor, it was believed and hoped that General Clark would be chosen. He had the majority of the legislature in his favour, yet, as the governor in this state is chosen for two years by the people, and every man that pays half a dollar tax has a vote, it so happened that Governor Troup succeeded, by his popularity, in bearing off the palm.

I examined the state-house, which is a simple, but well-finished brick building of two stories. In the ground floor are the offices, in the upper story two halls, one is for the senate, the other for the representatives. In each there is a seat, with a canopy, for the speaker. The senators have each a desk before them, in the hall of the representatives one desk serves two persons. All places are numbered, to prevent awkward encounters. In each hall there is a gallery for the public. The state-house is placed alone on a little eminence. In its neighbourhood stands the state arsenal. Another house belonging to the state, is appointed for the residence of the governor. Mr. Troup, notwithstanding, does not inhabit it; he has no family establishment, and has domesticated himself in a plain boarding-house. We intended to pay him our respects, he could not, however, receive us, as he lay dangerously ill of a pleurisy. Through two friends, Colonel Hamilton and Mr. Ringold, he tendered us his apologies, and these gentlemen, in his name, proffered us their services.

We were then carried to the state prison, a large brick edifice, under the superintendence of Mr. Williams, and contained seventy-six prisoners. All these were white persons, for the black were punished by the whip, and not with imprisonment. No idleness was suffered among the prisoners. If one understood no mechanical trade, he was obliged to learn one. I found most of them employed in wagon and saddle-making; others laboured in a smithy; others as shoemakers or tailors. The greatest quiet and silence prevailed among the prisoners. Their dress is blue, with broad white stripes upon all the seams. The interior of the lodging-house did not please me as much as the workshops. Cleanliness, so indispensable to such an establishment, was wanting here; it was neither swept nor scrubbed, and in the cells of the prisoners, in which four or five slept upon the floor, the woollen coverlets and pillows lay confusedly together. There were also cells for solitary confinement, this was, however, used only as a means of house discipline. The eating room was equally disagreeable to me. A piece of cooked meat was laid on the table for each prisoner, without knives, forks, or plates. Bread did not appear to be furnished every day; at least the day we were there, none was to be seen. The prison is surrounded by a high wall, at each of its four corners stands a sentry-box for the watch, which they ascend from without, and from which the whole yard can be overlooked. This establishment is so well conducted, that it occasions no expense to the state, on the contrary, it produces a profit. Upon the principal building stands a turret, which commands an extensive view over the town and circumjacent country. The district around appears uneven and covered with wood, the monotony of the view is relieved by nothing. The woods begin at the edge of the town.

Colonel Hamilton and Dr. Rogers accompanied us on Christmas day to the state-house. A travelling Unitarian clergyman from the northern states held divine service in the hall of representatives. The generality of people here are either Methodists or Baptists. As the Unitarian had found the churches here shut on this day, he had opened his temple in the state-house. His audience was composed of the beau monde, as a Unitarian was something new. He delivered a good discourse, in which he set forth pure morality, and received general approbation. After dinner he proposed to give a second service, for the purpose of expounding the doctrines of his belief, as founded on common sense.

Colonel Hamilton, a particular friend of Governor Troup, was formerly secretary of state of Georgia. The appointment to this office belongs to the legislature. This was the cause that though Troup is again chosen governor by the people, Mr. Hamilton and all the friends of the governor have lost their places, which are occupied by persons attached to the Clark party. Dr. Rodgers was secretary of the state treasury, and has been deprived of his office from the same cause. We saw here several Indians of both sexes, from the Creek nation, who sold bows, arrows, and very neatly made baskets. These Indians had a much better appearance than those I saw in the western part of the state of New York and Canada. Afterwards several of the grandees of the country were presented to me by Colonel Hamilton. All these gentlemen had their own peculiar character. It was evident that they lived in a state separated from the civilized world.

We were constrained to remain in Milledgeville on the day after Christmas, how unpleasant soever it might be. No stage goes from this place through the Indian territory to Montgomery on the Alabama river, whither we intended to bend our way. We therefore hired for this journey of one hundred and ninety-eight miles, a four-horse extra stage, for the price of two hundred and twenty-five dollars; this stage was at present under repair in the state prison, and could not be placed at our disposal before the 27th of December. It was necessary for us to have patience, and pass the time as well as possible, and the few gentlemen with whom we had formed acquaintance exerted themselves to amuse us.

On the 27th of December we left Milledgeville at nine o’clock in the morning. It was a pretty cold day, and there was ice half an inch thick. We rode only thirty miles to Macon. In spite of the large sum of money which our carriage had cost us, it broke twice; the repairs consumed much time, and we left it several miles behind. The day was very clear, and towards midday moderately warm, in the evening there was again a strong frost. I was pleased with the dark blue of the sky, such as we hardly have in Germany in a midsummer’s day. We met with several families, emigrating with their property to Macon and the State of Alabama. One of these families, who had paid their wagoners beforehand, had been left by them under frivolous pretext in the middle of the woods, two miles from Milledgeville: we found these unfortunate persons, who had made a bivouac, after they had waited several days in vain for their runaway wagoner and his horses. Several lonely houses which we passed were grog-shops, in which the neighbours were celebrating the third day of the Christmas holy-days. Every thing as at home, thought I, and fancied that I was in a European country. We noticed a gentleman and lady on horseback, the horses were not loaded completely, a barefooted negro wench was obliged to run with a heavy sack of corn on her shoulders to feed the horses! Then I was convinced, and with pleasure, that I was not in Europe! The road was sandy, uneven, and passed through pine woods. This wood was here and there cleared, and a patch of cotton and Indian corn planted. Close by Macon we crossed the Oakmulgee river in a ferry-boat, and reached the town after sunset. We found tolerable accommodation in a new tavern.

The country in which Macon is situated, was first purchased from the Creek Indians, in the year 1822, and the town began about two years ago. In the last war, the Indians had collected a number of their people here, and the United States built Fort Hawkins, on the left bank of the river, at present deserted.

In Macon we received a visit from a Colonel Danah, who formerly served in the army, and was now settled here. He introduced to me several of the distinguished people of the place, who had come to see me. The town has only three streets, which crossed at right angles. At the point of intersection is a large square, there are houses only on three sides of it; on the fourth side it is contemplated to erect the capitol, if, as it has been proposed, the government should be removed here from Milledgeville. One street runs perpendicular to the line of the river, over which a bridge is intended to be built: the mason work for its support has been completed on both sides. The streets are about one hundred feet wide, the roots of the felled trees are visible in them, of which trees the houses are constructed throughout. The place contains about sixteen hundred inhabitants, white and black. The population are partly young people from Georgia, partly emigrants from the two Carolinas and the northern states, who have fixed themselves here from motives of speculation. Although the site of the new town is represented as extremely healthy, yet they have suffered during the preceding summer from bilious fever. The country around is little built upon, and the woods begin not far behind the houses.

About nine o’clock in the morning, on the 28th December, we left Macon and rode thirty-one miles distance to the Indian agency, on the left bank of Flint river, called by the Indians, Thlo-no-teas-kah. The road was partly sandy, partly rocky, but extremely uneven. It was kept in very bad order. No pains had been taken to carry away or saw through trees, which had fallen more than a year back crosswise over the road; the carriage was obliged to make a considerable deviation through the woods to pass these fallen trees. The plantations by which we passed, are all new; the houses were completely log huts. The tiresome uniformity of the pine woods were, in the low and marshy places into which we often came, very pleasantly interrupted by evergreen cane, as well as by thorn oaks and laurel trees, we also saw several green-leaved trees, chiefly oaks, as formerly.

Towards four o’clock in the afternoon we reached the agency, a group of twenty log houses, and some negro huts. It is appointed for the residence of the agent of the United States with the Creek Indians, (he, however, was absent at this time,) and is situated in a very handsome tract of land on the left side of the Flint river, which rushes over a rocky bed between pretty steep banks. The right bank belongs to the Creek nation, of about twenty-one thousand souls, and is inhabited by them. The contest between the state of Georgia and the United States is caused by this territory. The state of Georgia had concluded a treaty with one of the Creek chiefs, M‘Intosh, concerning the surrender of this district of land; the nation, discontented with the treaty, and is nowise willing to evacuate their country, insisted that they had been deceived, and killed M‘Intosh. The United States espoused the side of the Indians, and blamed the Georgia commissioners for scandalous impositions upon the Indians. Congress is now about to decide upon this matter. In one of the log-houses, with a Mr. Crowell, we took up our night’s lodging, and enjoyed some very well cooked venison. In a neighbouring grog-shop we found a collection of drunken Indians, and some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days. Several of them were well dressed; they wore mocassins and leggings of leather; broad knee-bands ornamented with white glass beads, a sort of coat of striped cotton, and upon the head a striped cotton cloth, almost like a turban. Several of them were very large. For a treat of whiskey, which I gave them, eight of them performed the war dance. They skipped here and there in a circle, moved themselves right and left, sprung against each other, raised their hands on high, let them fall again, and bellowed horribly through the whole scene. Some old men who stood near, took it in dudgeon, that the young men should dance in such a way before white people. They called to them to stop. Mr. Crowell, however, brought them to silence easily, by whiskey.

The colour of these Indians is a dusky brown. They have black straight hair. Several of them possess negroes, to whom it is very acceptable to live with them, since they are treated with more equality than by the whites. Some of these negroes were very well clothed in the Indian manner, they drank and jumped about with the Indians. One of them was of colossal stature, and appeared to be in great request among the Indians, to whom he served as interpreter. The constitution of these Indians is a mixture of aristocratical and republican form of government. The chiefs are chosen for life, and the dignity is not hereditary; for improper conduct they can be deposed. They cannot write their language. Their laws are of course very simple, and founded on traditionary usage.

It had rained hard in the night, between the 28th and 29th of December, it rained also in the day, almost incessantly, yet this rain was mild and warm, nearly like a spring rain in Germany. There was a consultation, whether we should remain or go farther on, I determined on the latter. About nine o’clock we left our night quarters. In the vicinity thereof, the governor of the state of Georgia had built Fort Lawrence, which was evacuated, and given up at the peace. The houses, which belonged to the agency, were then built as magazines and hospitals for the troops, and arranged for a post of defence. Near the chimney, and the doors and windows, (the last without glass sashes,) were loop-holes pierced. Behind this post we passed the Flint river in an Indian ferry-boat, and found ourselves landed upon their territory. We rode twenty-eight miles farther to a lonely plantation, called Currel’s. The road ran through the worst part of the Indian lands, the woods consisted as before, of the long-leaved pine, and it was only in damp places we observed green leaves. In particular, there grew high and beautiful cane. The soil is for the most part dry sand, in strata, and particularly in the bottoms it is mixed with clay, and of a full yellow colour. The Indians have thrown bridges over two brooks with marshy shores, at each of them we paid, with great pleasure, half a dollar toll-money. The bridges are indeed not remarkably good, yet better than several in the christian state of Georgia, and even in many of the more northern states. We met but few of the Indian inhabitants; these were all wrapt up in woollen blankets. We only saw three wigwams, Indian houses, chiefly toll-houses of the bridges. They resemble the log-houses, neither are they so open as those which I saw last summer in the state of New York. The day was exceedingly uninteresting. Mr. Currel, with whom we passed the night, is a Virginian, who has settled here for the opportunity of speculating among the Indians, from whom he purchased his land at a rather cheap rate: to judge from his habits of intoxication, he has already adapted himself too much to their mode of life. His plantation buildings are, as all the rest, log huts: the wind blew to our heart’s content through the room; no lamp could burn, and we were forced to use a great hearth fire to give us light. There was no ceiling to our room, but a transparent roof of clap-boards directly over us. I was surprised to discover Shakspeare’s works in this place. In one of the out-houses there was a very good supper set before us, at which, especially, we had excellent venison.

Upon the 30th of December, after we had passed a cold night in our clap-board hut, which allowed the storm free admission, and locked our few articles of property in our chamber, from fear of the Indians sneaking about, we started before break of day, and rode a distance of thirty-three miles to Fort Mitchel. The weather was cold the whole day through, and threatened rain. The country again very uninteresting, mostly pines, a sandy soil, here and there mingled with clay: at length wood with green leaves. Only in low situations, along the rivulets, of which we passed three, was the vegetation to be admired. The laurel bushes particularly looked well. It gave me real pleasure to be able to walk in a green thicket along a brook, which I could have accomplished with difficulty in summer, since these bushes are the favourite resort of a great number of rattlesnakes. In a solitary plantation we took our breakfast; it belonged to a Mr. Colfrey, a worthy old Virginian, who had lost a considerable property, and to better his circumstances, had determined on the hard alternative of settling among the Indians. We found his plantation in a very uncommon state of order and neatness, and we were delighted by an unexpected and most excellent breakfast. Mr. Bowdoin said to the owner of the place, that he appeared as if he had not always lived thus among the savages, and never can I forget how the old man, with tears in his eyes, turned away without making an answer.

We met with several wigwams, and various temporary cabins of travelling Indians, also a number of bridges, at which we were obliged to pay the Indians toll. The country was very hilly till we came into a valley, a mile from our night quarters, through which the Chatahouchee flowed. This river empties itself into the Mexican gulf. The district, even to the left bank of the river, is rather marshy, grown up with willows, laurel, and cane. Not far from the river we beheld several buildings appointed for the popular assembly of the Indians, called the big talk. They are large and round, having a conical-formed roof, covered with tree-bark; they have walls of lime, and a covered low entrance also of lime. The Indians assemble in these buildings only in bad weather, or at night, and then a fire kindled in the middle of the house, gives light. In good weather they collect in a square place covered with sheds, under which the Indians sit down on planks protected from the sun’s heat. There is also another place for public games, and particularly for ball-playing. They appeared here also to have a species of masquerade, for we found some in a half gourd, cut through and made into a mask, with eyes and mouth cut in it, and the nose set on of a piece of wood. From the neck of the gourd, which was cut at half its length, they had made a pair of horns, and fasted them on the mask, and under this a long white beard.

We passed the river Chatahouchee at one of the ferries belonging to the Indians, and kept in order by them. The right bank is somewhat steep, of red earth, which, from the violent rain, had become slippery. Half a mile from the ferry brought us to Fort Mitchel. It stood upon a height, and was situated to the right of us. We dismounted not far from this, between Indian wigwams at Crowell’s tavern. The host was a brother of the Indian agent. This house has also a plantation attached to it, as the one above-mentioned had. Colonel Wool and I were lodged in an airy out-house of clap-boards, without a ceiling, and windows without glass. We were accommodated with freer circulation than would have fallen to our lot in a German barn. Four companies of the fourth regiment of infantry, the staff of which was fixed at Pensacola, lay in garrison at the fort. The commandant, Major Donoho, and his officers had taken board at Crowell’s tavern; in the evening we made acquaintance with them. The most of these officers, pupils of the school at West Point, were men of information, and we passed the remainder of the evening much pleased with their society.

We made the 31st of December a day of rest, as Colonel Wool had to inspect the garrison of the fort. The four companies here stationed form properly the garrison of Pensacola, and were only sent here last summer during the contest between Georgia and the United States, to protect the Creeks against the encroachments of that State. It openly wishes to take possession of the Indian territory to the Chatahouchee, to which river, agreeable to the charter, Georgia extends. The right bank of the river, on which we now found ourselves, is in the jurisdiction of the State of Alabama. The troops arriving, at first encamped here, but immediately commenced building a new but smaller fort, on the spot where Fort Mitchell stands, so called in honour of the then governor of Georgia, which they now occupy. They hoped, however, that they should return to Pensacola as soon as the disagreements had been settled.

After the inspection, we took a walk to a plantation lying near, which belonged to an Indian named M‘Intosh. He was absent at Washington as a delegate from his nation. He is the son of that M‘Intosh, who obtained from the State of Georgia the title of General, and who last spring, on account of the treaty with the state, had been shot by his countrymen and hewed in pieces. Polygamy prevails among the Indians. The young M‘Intosh had indeed only two wives, a white woman and an Indian. They say he had several wives whom he wished to keep: the white woman however had driven them with scolding and disgrace out of the house, as she would only submit to one Indian rival. We did not see the Indian wife. The white wife, however, received us quite politely. She is the daughter of a planter in Georgia, and tolerably pretty. She was attired in the European style, only according to the Indian fancy in dress, she carried a quantity of glass beads about her neck. She showed us her two children, completely white, and also the portrait of her father-in-law, as large as life, with the sword of honour given him by the United States. The family is in very good circumstances, and possesses seventy negroes.

In the afternoon we went to a Methodist mission, one short mile distant. We found none but the women at home. The missionaries have established a school, which is frequented by thirty children. They have three Indian girls, boarders, who were extremely modest. The mission is situated in a handsome plantation, on which I saw tame deer. The deer here are evidently smaller than those in Europe.

Sunday, the 1st of January, 1826, we were awakened by the drums and fifes, which announced the new year, by playing Hail Columbia and Yankee Doodle. With the break of day, between seven and eight o’clock, we left Fort Mitchel, and rode twenty-five miles to a plantation called Lewis’s, which is located on the spot, upon which, in the last war, Fort Bainbridge stood. The road ran through a very hilly country. At first the soil was sandy and poor, it bore nothing but pine trees. After we had passed over half the distance, the soil improved, it looked reddish-yellow, and the apparently everlasting pines gave place to handsome oaks and lofty hickories. On the other hand the carriage road became very bad, and in a narrow place we upset. The carriage fell slowly towards my side, I took the right moment, sprung from the box on which I sat, and fell upon my feet. This was the eighth time I had been overturned, and never did I escape so cheap as on this occasion. As none of the other gentlemen were injured, we could happily laugh at our accident. The carriage was somewhat damaged, and since we were only four miles distant from Lewis’s, and had very fine weather, a true spring day, with clear dark-blue sky, we went the rest of the way on foot.

We passed several wigwams and temporary Indian huts, in which the men lived with the hogs, and lay around the fire with them. A hut of this description is open in front, behind it is closed with pieces of wood and bark. The residents live on roasted venison and Indian corn. The hides of the deer, and even of cattle, they stretch out to dry in the sun, and then sell them. At one hut, covered with cane leaves, there was venison roasting, and bacon smoking. The venison is cut in pieces, and spitted on a cane stalk, many such stalks lie upon two blocks near each other. Under these the fire is kindled, and the stalk continually turned round, till the flesh is dried through. Upon this is laid a hurdle made of cane which rests on four posts. To this are all the large pieces suspended. The hams of bacon are laid upon the hurdle so that the smoke may draw through them.

The grass in many parts of the woods was in a blaze, and many pine trees were burning. We crossed two small streams, the Great and Little Uchee, on tolerable wooden bridges. Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we reached Lewis’s, a handsome house, the best that we had found in the Indian territory. We took here an excellent dinner. We ate daily of the best of venison. In Fort Mitchel we had eaten partridges, of which the officers in one day took fifty-seven in the morning, and forty-six in the evening, in their nets. For the singularity of the thing, I will notice our dinner of to-day, that the inquisitive reader may observe that one is in no danger of hunger on the lands of the Indians: soup of turnips, roast-beef, a roast-turkey, venison with a kind of sour sauce, roast-chickens, and pork with sweet potatoes.

On the 2d of January we rode thirty-one miles to Walker’s, also a solitary plantation. The country hilly, the road bad to such a degree that we could only creep along in the most tedious manner, and were obliged to proceed on foot very often. The wood on the other hand grew better and better, and consisted, besides the pines, of handsome oaks, and various sorts of nut-bearing trees, mostly hickories: the soil, for the most part, of a reddish yellow. In several marshy places, and on the banks of rivulets, we saw again the evergreen trees and bushes, and in a swamp nearly a mile long, through which a causeway ran, some magnolia grandiflora which were at least sixty feet high. I also saw here again several trees, which first forming one trunk, four or five feet above the ground, divided themselves into two trunks, and then shot up into the air one hundred feet. In the north-western part of the state of New York, I have seen trees which ran up in five, six, and even seven trunks. Over a stream with marshy banks, a bridge was thrown, three hundred and eleven paces long: the view which I took from this bridge of the luxuriant exotic vegetation which surrounded me, exhibited, as I thought, the original of the sketches of the Brazilian forests in the travels of the Prince Nieuwied. The beautiful day, the cloudless dark-blue sky, also introduced by him, were recalled to me by this picture. But when I observed upon the trees the hateful Spanish moss, I was reminded that I was in the neighbourhood of Columbia and Charleston, and that it was a token of unwholesome air. In the swamps I noticed several plants which were known to me from hot-house cultivation, but unfortunately I cannot recall their names.

The country is comparatively populously inhabited by Indians. They live partly in wigwams, partly in bark cabins. Before one of these huts, or cabins, hung a skinned otter, upon which they seemed preparing to make a meal. The Indians roast their maize on the naked coals, then they throw it into a cavity made in a trunk of a tree, and pound it with a stick of wood into a sort of coarse meal. I bought a species of nuts, which were roasted, ground-nuts, and amused myself with the propensity to thievery a young Indian displayed. As I was putting the nuts in my pocket, one or more would drop, instantly the young fellow would step forward, as if by accident, set his foot on the nut, take it between his toes, and move off. We passed through a tolerably cleared, fenced, and built district, in which several negro quarters of a decent appearance were scattered about. This plantation belonged to a chief, one of the principal of the Creeks, called the Big Warrior, who owns above three hundred negroes, whose wooden dwelling-house stands in the centre of his property. He is now at Washington, as one of the deputies of his nation. We came over another cleared spot, where the Indians were routed in the last war by the Georgia militia under General Floyd.

Not far from this place, we noticed a number of Indians collected in the neighbourhood of a plantation. We left our carriage to inquire into the cause of it. There had been a horse race of middling unsightly horses: the festival was, however, ended, and the meeting was on the point of breaking up. A white planter who was there, conducted us to the son of the Big Warrior. He was himself a chief, and possessed a high reputation, as was said amongst those of the nation. He sat upon a felled tree between two inferior chiefs. His dress was a tunic of flowered, clear blue calico, a piece of the same stuff was wrapped round his head like a turban. He wore richly ornamented leather leggings set with glass beads, and mocassins, and had an equally ornamented hunting pouch hung around him. Moderately fat, and of a great stature, he appeared to be about thirty years old. He had mustaches like all his countrymen. I was introduced to him, and shook hands with him. The conversation was very trifling and short. It took place through an interpreter who appeared to be a dismissed soldier. This creature caused the chief to rise when we commenced speaking to him; when I begged him to remain sitting, he reseated himself mechanically. He directed no questions to me, and answered mine with yes and no. To the question, whether he knew any thing of the country of which I was a native, he answered by a shake of the head. He looked no more at me. Several Indians wore their hair in a singular style; it was shorn on both sides of the head, and the middle, from the neck over to the forehead, stood up like a cock’s comb. Seen from behind, they appeared as if they wore a helmet. Quite small boys practised themselves already in shooting with a little bow. I attempted to joke with a little fellow, three years old, but he took the jest in bad part, and threatened me with his bow.

After sunset, towards six o’clock in the evening, we reached Walker’s, and found a good reception in a large log-house, each of us had a separate chamber. The landlord was a captain of infantry in the United States’ service formerly, and had, as our host of yesterday, an Indian wife.

On the following day we rode to Montgomery, twenty-five miles distant. The road was in the beginning bad, afterwards, however, really good. We crossed a bridge over a stream one hundred paces long, and were then obliged to toil over a long, wretched causeway. The vegetation was again exceedingly luxuriant, it was remarkably beautiful on the banks of Line Creek, a little river, which forms the boundary between the Indian territory and the state of Alabama, eight miles from Walker’s. Very lofty live oaks, and oaks of other descriptions, several magnolias, and amongst them, a particularly handsome and lofty macrophylla.

As we entered upon the territory of Alabama, we soon observed that we were upon a much better soil. It was darker, much wood was removed, and signs of cultivation every where. Upon several plantations, the cotton fields exhibited themselves in beautiful order; the log houses were only employed as negro cabins; the mansion-houses, two stories high, are for the most part painted white, and provided with piazzas and balconies. At most of them the cotton gins and presses were at work. The planters had not finished the whole of their crop, on account of the unusual drought. The Alabama river was so low that the steam-boats had not been able for several weeks to pass from Mobile to Montgomery. This place had therefore, for a length of time, suffered for the want of the most necessary supplies, which are drawn from Mobile; fifteen dollars had been asked for one bushel of salt. We met several caravans of emigrants from the eastern part of Georgia, who were on their way to Butler county, Alabama, to settle themselves on land which they had purchased very cheap from the United States. The number of their negroes, wagons, horses, and cattle, showed that these emigrants were in easy circumstances. On account of the bad road, we went at first a good deal on foot; at one of the creeks, the carriage passed through the ford, and we footmen crossed over on one of the simplest bridges in the world, namely, a felled pine tree of great size. We arrived at Montgomery about two o’clock. In the night it had frozen, but the day had solaced us with the warmth of spring.

Montgomery lies on the Alabama river, a navigable stream, which rises about two hundred and twenty miles above this place, and after it has joined itself to the Tombigbee, empties into the Mexican gulf, below Mobile. The town contains about one thousand two hundred inhabitants, of both complexions. It has two streets, which are very broad, tolerably good houses, one, not yet finished, of brick, which material is very bad here. This place was first laid out about five years ago, and has already a very lively appearance. On the bank of the river, they were employed in loading two steam-boats with cotton bales, as, within a few days, the river had risen five feet, and the navigation was once more carried on with animation.

The journey by water from Montgomery to Mobile, is four hundred miles, and as we intended to go this way, we took a look at the two steam-boats lying here, the Steubenville and Hornet, bound for Mobile. We chose the Steubenville, which gave out to start on the next day. The construction of both these boats, and their arrangement, was far inferior to that of the steam-boats in the north: every thing was coarser, and displayed the difference between the civilization of the two different sections of the union. This town is so new, that the original forest still stands between the houses. In a street there was a well digging; I discovered by this that the earth was exceedingly well adapted to brick-making, and that an industrious man, who should establish a kiln here, must make a handsome profit on the business. The bricks which they sell here at ten dollars a thousand, are scandalous. Of the inhabitants I heard nothing commendable: and how can this young town, whose situation, at least in summer, is unhealthy, have a fixed character; how can it attain a high degree of cultivation? All come here for the purpose of amassing property, or are driven here by the prostration of their fortunes, in their old residence!

[CHAPTER XVII.]

Journey from Montgomery, on the Alabama river, to Mobile, and residence in that city.

The Steubenville, commanded by Captain Grover, is of one hundred and seventy tons, and has a high pressure machine, of fifty horse-power. Machines like these are very dangerous, and therefore prohibited in the Netherlands. The machine of the Steubenville was made in Pittsburg. The body of the boat is occupied by the cargo, the cabins are upon deck. The dining-room had twelve births; behind this is a gallery with some apartments; the last one was hired by us. Before we sailed, two Indians came on board, who wondered very much at my double barrelled gun, with percussion locks; they had never seen such fire-arms before; I permitted them to discharge it, and gave them some of the copper caps, at which present they testified great delight.

We went down the river very swiftly, sixteen miles an hour. The banks of the river near Montgomery are rather high, they consist of red earth, with many spots of flint, and covered with willow-growth. We came only a distance of eighteen miles, to a place called Washington, where the Hornet lay, and where we also were stopped, to remain during the night for the purpose of taking in wood and cotton. On account of the number of sand banks, the navigation of the river must be dangerous; the captain assured me that the experienced pilot then on board, had one hundred dollars per month pay, so seldom are the officers of the boats here, accustomed to the localities!

The next morning we moved on at break of day, with considerable rapidity; but we soon stopped again, to take in some cotton bales, which lay ready in a wood on the shore. We had above four hundred bales already on board. The hold of the boat was full, the space between the machine and the first cabin was filled, as well as the space about the cabins, and the roof over them. There was no room left for exercise in walking, and in the cabin it was very dark. The first delay lasted about an hour; as soon as we were in motion again, we were obliged to stop for several hours, as one of the two pipes fell, and drew the other with it. The steward standing near, was wounded. We pursued our journey about midday, and laid by again towards sunset to take in wood, and remain for the night, as the water in the river had fallen, and the sand banks were numerous in this vicinity.

We went on shore to look about, and found ourselves near to a plantation with extensive cotton fields, a cotton gin, and a large cotton press. There is a vast quantity of cotton seed left, more than is required for the next year’s planting, and the overplus is used for manure. I am well convinced, that with a small trouble and little expense, a very good oil could be expressed from this seed. It was thrown out in great heaps, which contained so much heat, that it was impossible to keep my hand in it a moment. The breadth of the river is here said to be three hundred yards, but I cannot believe it to be so much. The right bank may be about sixty feet high, it rests partly on sandstone, and consists of many layers of soil; the left bank is lower. Both are grown up with wood, close to the water’s edge with willows, and farther back with different sorts of trees; lofty oaks, live oaks, and white oaks, which only flourish in the south, with plane trees, hickories, and other nut-bearing trees, here and there with beech, ash, and alder, and also with tall green cane. If it were not so warm and unhealthy during the summer, a residence here would be delightful. We saw upon the river many flocks of wild geese and ducks, and upon the shore several buzzards. The river makes a number of turns, and contains several islands; yet the most of them are merely sand banks. Upon them lie fallen trees, of which passing vessels must take great care. On the banks were canoes, which, in the Indian fashion, were hewed out of a single tree.

On the 6th of January, the boat was under way before daybreak; she stopt at Cahawba till ten o’clock, to take in wood. This place has its name from a small river, which here flows into the Alabama. It lies upon the right hand bank of the river, here rather high. It was founded about five years ago, and it is already the capital of the state. With all this advantage, it contains only three hundred inhabitants of all sorts, and it is to be feared that its population will not increase, as the present legislature of Alabama, has resolved to change the seat of government to Tuscaloosa.

A fatiguing and bad road goes from the landing to this village. It has two very broad streets, which cut each other at right angles. Only four or five houses are of brick, the others all built of wood; they stand at a distance from one another. In the streets were erected two very plain triumphal arches, in honour of General La Fayette. I was made acquainted with Colonel Pickens, friend of Colonel Wool. He had formerly served in the army, was afterwards governor of South Carolina, and now a planter in Alabama. He carried us to the state-house, where the legislature was in session.[II.1] He introduced me to Governor Murphy, in whose office we passed half an hour, in conversing very pleasantly. The governor gave me several details concerning the state. The greater part of it had been bought from the Indians, and settled within ten years. It was first received by congress as a state of the union in the year 1819. All establishments within it, are of course very new. The staple productions are Indian corn and cotton, which are shipped to Mobile, the sea port of the state, and sold there. The bales of cotton average about forty dollars. About forty miles hence, at the confluence of the Black Warrior and the Tombigbee rivers, lies the town of Demopolis, formerly called Eagleville. It was located by the French, who had come back from the much promising Champ d’Asyle. This place attracted my curiosity in a lively degree, and I would willingly have visited it. The governor and the secretary of state, however, advised me strongly against this, as there was nothing at all there worthy of observation. They related to me what follows:

Alabama, as a territory, was under the especial superintendence of congress. At that period a number of French arrived from the perishing Champ d’Asyle to the United States. At the head of them were the Generals Lefebvre-Desnouettes, Lallemand and Rigaud; congress allowed these Frenchmen a large tract of land upon a very long credit, almost for nothing, under the promise that they would endeavour to plant the vine and olive tree. Both attempts miscarried, either through the neglect of the French, or that the land was too rich for the vine and the olive. Some of these Frenchmen devoted themselves to the more profitable cultivation of cotton; the most of them, however, disposed of the land allotted to them very advantageously, spread themselves through the United States, and sought a livelihood in a variety of ways. Some were dancing and fencing masters, some fancy shopkeepers, and others in Mobile and New Orleans, even croupiers at the hazard tables, that are there licensed. General Rigaud betook himself at the time of the Spanish revolution to Spain, there to contend against France, and may now be living in England; General Lefebvre-Desnouettes, also went back to Europe, as it was said to obtain the money collected in France for the colony, and to bring out settlers; he lost his life some years ago in the shipwreck of the Albion packet, on the Irish coast. General Lallemand resorted to New York, where he is doing well. The Frenchmen, with some of whom I afterwards conversed in New Orleans, insisted that they had received none of the money collected for them. Eagleville, since called Demopolis, has only one store, and a few log houses. It lies in a very level country, and at the most only five Frenchmen, whose names I could not obtain, are living there now, the remaining inhabitants are Americans.

After we had looked about the two streets of Cahawba, we embarked and pursued our voyage. At our going on board, we remarked that Cahawba was a depôt for cotton, which, partly in steam-boats, and partly in vessels made of light wood, are transported down the river. These vessels have a flat bottom, and are built in the form of a parallelogram. The part under the water is pitched, and on the fore and back narrower ends, are rudder oars, with which the boats are steered. The vessels are finished in a very rough way; they are broken up in Mobile, and the timber sold. They are known by the general title of flat boats.

Some miles below Cahawba we stopped on the right bank, near the plantation of Mr. Rutherford. There were still fifteen bales of cotton to be taken in. While this was doing, we went on shore to take a walk, where the bank was tolerably high. Mr. Rutherford’s plantation has been about six years in cultivation. The mansion-house is of wood, and built as other log houses, but it is handsomely situated among live oaks and pride of China trees. The entrance is shaded by a rose-tree. Around were handsome, high and uncommonly thick sycamores, whose trunks appeared white, elms, gum trees, and the above named (live oaks and Chinas) many from a single trunk, also cane, that was at least twenty feet high. The situation of the plantation was unhealthy, and Mr. R. a Georgian by birth, told us that he carried his family for the sake of health to the north every summer. We saw here several hundred paroquets flying round, who kept up a great screaming. Many were shot. They are parrots, but of a larger species than the common kind, clear green with yellow tips to their wings, and orange-coloured heads, flesh-coloured bills, and long green tails. We had before seen on the bank several astonishingly numerous flocks of black birds. The banks of the river are here and there one hundred feet high, they are composed of steep sandstone rock, from which springs flow.

By the accession of the new load of cotton bales, our vessel became too heavily laden. She acquired a balancing motion, like a ship at sea. This was exceedingly embarrassing in the numerous bends of the river, and to avoid the danger of falling back, it was necessary to stop the machinery at every turn. The fine dry weather which pleased us so much, was the cause of the great fall in the water of the river. The change from high to low water was very rapid. In the spring, as I was assured, the river rose sixty feet and more, and inundated the high land near it. I could not doubt the fact; for I saw upon the rocky banks the traces of the high water. About dark we laid by on the right shore to take in wood. We remained here for the night, and I had in a wretched lair an equally wretched repose.[II.2]

On the 7th of January, at six in the morning, our vessel was once more in motion; soon, however, she stuck fast upon the sand. It required much trouble to bring her off, and turn her round; the task occupied an hour and a half. It was shortly before daybreak, and we were all in bed, if such miserable cribs deserved the name. It had various effects upon our travelling companions. Mr. Huygens rose in consternation from his bed, and made a great disturbance. Mr. Bowdoin called to his servant, and directed him to inquire what had happened. He was very uneasy when we told him that we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here, to wait for rain, and the consequent rise of the river. The colonel and I, who had acquired by our long experience, a tolerable portion of recklessness, remained in our cots, and left the matter to Providence, as we perceived that the captain would rather disembark his cotton, which consumed nothing, than to support much longer a number of passengers, all with good appetites, who had agreed for their voyage at a certain price. When we were again afloat, Mr. Bowdoin remarked with a face of great wisdom, that he had foreseen that we should not long remain aground, as he had not felt the stroke of the boat on the sand-bar.

We passed the whole day without any further accident, the weather was rather dull and drizzling. Nothing interesting occurred to our observation. We passed by two steam-boats that had been sunk in the river, of which the last, called the Cotton Plant, went down only a month since. Both struck against trees in the river, and sank so slowly, that all the passengers, and part of the cargo were saved. They were so deep that only the wheel-houses raised themselves above the water. From these boats already a part of the machinery has been taken out piece-meal.

In the afternoon we passed a little place called Claiborne, situated on an eminence on the left bank of the river. Three miles below, we stopped about sunset, on the right bank for wood. The name of the place is Wiggins’s Landing. It consists of two log-houses standing upon a height, among old tall thin oak trees, which was settled by a Mr. Wiggins, with his wife and children, a short time before. The houses had a very picturesque appearance, and I was sorry that I could not take a sketch of them. Mr. W. proposed to cut down the wood for the purpose of raising cotton there. It was a pity to do so with this handsome grove, handsome, although injured in its appearance by the Spanish moss which hangs from the trees. Monsieur Chateaubriand compares the trees enveloped in this moss to apparitions; in the opinion of Brackenridge, they resemble ships under full sail, with which the air plays in a calm at sea. I, who never beheld ghosts, nor possessed Mons. Chateaubriand’s powers of imagination, though I had seen sails tossing in the wind, compared these trees in my prosaic mood, to tenter-hooks, on which beggars dry their ragged apparel before some great holy-day.

We were in hopes, that we should have made more progress during the night, but the captain had become so prudent, and almost anxious, from the sight of the two sunken steam-boats, that he determined to spend the night at Wiggins’s Landing. Formerly, near Claiborne, there was a stockade, called Fort Claiborne, where an affair took place with the Indians in the last war. This place is named in honour of the deceased Mr. Claiborne, governor of the former Mississippi Territory, of which the present state of Alabama formed a part, who died about eight years ago, governor of the state of Louisiana, in New Orleans. He had taken possession of Louisiana, in the name of the United States, which the then existing French Government had sold to them. Mr. Claiborne was a particular favourite and countryman of President Jefferson. He had by his voice decided the presidential election in favour of Jefferson, against his antagonist, Aaron Burr, for which Jefferson was gratefully mindful during his whole life.

On the 8th of January, we left our anchoring ground between six and seven o’clock. The shores, which at first were pretty high, became by degrees lower, they remained, however, woody, mostly of oak wood in appearance, hung with long moss. Under the trees, grew very thick, and uncommonly handsome cane, above twenty feet high. At the rise of the river, these shores, often covered with water, are on this account little inhabited. Taking it for granted that the population of Alabama increases in numbers, and the higher land becomes healthier from extirpation of the forest, without doubt dykes will be made on these lower banks, to guard the land from inundation, and make it susceptible of culture. Here and there rose sand banks out of the water, and also several snags. We passed the place where the year before, a steam-boat, the Henry Clay, was sunk; since which time, however, she has been set afloat again. It is not very consolatory to the traveller, to behold places and remains of such occurrences, particularly when they find themselves on board such a miserable vessel as ours. Several steam-boats, which at present navigate the Alabama, formerly ran on the Mississippi, as this one did; they were judged too bad for that river, and were, therefore, brought into this trade, by which their possessors realized much money. We saw to-day many wild ducks and geese, on the shores also, numbers of paroquets, which make a great noise; in the river there were alligators, which are smaller than the Egyptian crocodile. One of these creatures was lying on the shore of the bank, and was sunning itself, yet too far from us, and our boat went too fast, to permit of my seeing it distinctly, or of shooting at it. In the afternoon we saw several small rivers, which flowed into the Alabama, or ran out of it, forming stagnant arms, which are here called bayous. The river itself takes extraordinary turns, and shapes out a variety of islands. We afterwards reached the confluence of the rivers Alabama and Tombigbee, where there is an island, and the country appears extremely well. Both rivers united, take the name of Mobile river.

About three miles below this junction, several wooden houses formed a group on the right bank. Formerly, there was a stockade here, Fort Stoddart, from which this collection of houses has its name. Here is the line which forms the thirty-first degree of latitude, once the boundary between the United States and the Spanish possessions. The Mobile river still increased in breadth, and as the night commenced, seemed about half a mile wide. The weather was very dark and cloudy, the pilot could not distinguish his course, and although we approached close to the city, we could proceed no farther, without exposing ourselves to danger.

Early on the 9th of January it was extremely foggy. On this account a boat was sent out to reconnoitre. The fog after some time cleared away a little, and we found ourselves so near the wharves that we immediately touched one of the piers, and landed about half past eight. We had travelled four hundred and fifty miles from Montgomery. The journey by land amounts only to two hundred and fifty-eight miles, and yet is seldom performed, on account of the want of good roads and accommodation. Being arrived at Mobile and extremely glad at having left our wretched steam-boat, in which we had enjoyed no comfort, we took up our residence in Smooth’s Hotel, a wooden building, the bar-room of which is at the same time the post-office, and therefore somewhat lively.

Mobile, an ancient Spanish town, yet still earlier occupied by the French, was ceded with Louisiana, in 1803, to the United States. The few respectable creole families, who had formerly dwelt here, left the place at the cession, and withdrew to the island of Cuba, and none but those of the lower classes remained behind. A new population was formed of the North Americans, who came here to make money. From this cause, the French as well as the Spanish language remains only among the lower classes; the better society is thoroughly American. Mobile contains five thousand inhabitants, of both complexions, of which about one thousand may be blacks. The town lies on the right bank of the Florida river, where it is divided into several arms, and has formed Mobile bay, which, thirty miles below, joins the Mexican gulf. It is regularly built, the streets are at right angles, part of them parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular to it. Along the shore is a wooden quay, and wooden piers or landing bridges project into the water, for the convenience of vessels. There are lying here about thirty ships, of which several are of four hundred tons, to be loaded with cotton. The most of them are from New York. When the ebb tide draws off the water, a quantity of filth remains uncovered on the shore, and poisons the atmosphere. This circumstance may contribute its agency to the unhealthiness of the place in summer. The shore opposite the harbour is marshy and full of cane. The town lies upon a poor sandy soil; the streets are not paved, and unpleasant from the depth of the sand. On both sides of the streets there are paths made of strong plank, which divide the walk from the cartway of the street, which will be converted into pavements when brick or stone shall have become cheaper.

The generality of the houses are of wood, covered with shingles, and have piazzas. Some new houses only, are built of brick. This article must be imported, and is not to be procured in large quantities of any quality. As an example of this, I saw a house finished, of which the two first stories were of red brick, and the third of yellow. There are also here some Spanish houses which consist of timber frames, of which the open spaces are filled up with beaten clay, like those of the German peasantry. Besides several private houses, most of the public buildings are of brick. These are, a theatre, which, besides the pit, has a row of boxes and a gallery, the bank, the court of the United States, the county court-house, the building of which was in progress, and the prison. Near this prison stood the public whipping post for negroes. It was constructed like a sash frame. The lower board on which the feet of the unfortunate being were to stand, could be pushed up or down, to accommodate the height of the individual. Upon it is a block, through which the legs are passed. The neck and arms are passed through another.

The Catholic church here is in a very miserable situation. I went into it, just at the time the church seats were publicly rented for the year to the highest bidders; two in my presence were disposed of for nineteen dollars a piece. The church within resembles a barn, it had a high altar with vessels of tin, and a picture of no value, also two little side altars.

A large cotton warehouse, of all the buildings in Mobile, most excited my attention. This consists of a square yard, surrounded on three sides by massive arcades, where the cotton bales coming from the country are brought in, and preparatory to their shipment are again pressed, that they may occupy as little room as possible in the vessel. The bales were arranged on a layer of thick plank, between which there is room allowed to pass the ropes through. Above the bales, which are placed between four strong iron vices, is a cover, in which there is room left for the ropes as below. These covers have four apertures, with female screws, through which the vices pass. On every screw there is a face wheel. All these four face wheels are driven by a crown wheel, which is put in motion by a horse. The covers are thus screwed down on the bales, and their bulk reduced one-third. During the pressure, the negro labourers have drawn the ropes through the groves between the planks and fastened the bales with little difficulty. This warehouse or magazine has two such presses. It occupies three sides of the yard, the fourth contains a handsome dwelling house. The whole is built of brick, and has an iron verandah. It belongs to speculators in New Orleans, and is known by the name of the “fire proof magazine,” although the interior is of wood.

The weather was very fine, and as warm as we have it in summer: I felt it very much in walking, and most of the doors and windows in the houses stood open. On this account I seated myself in the piazza before the house. A number of Choctaw Indians, who led a wandering life in the woods around the town, went about the streets selling wood, which they carried in small billets, bound on their backs. They are of a darker colour, and, if possible, still dirtier than the Creeks, they wrap themselves also in blankets, and most of them wore round hats trimmed with tin rings and pieces of tin. I walked through the streets of the place, which contains several large stores, to all appearance well stocked. In these excursions I found an old Brunswicker, named Thomas, who kept a grog-shop here, and who showed me a young alligator, an ugly animal, at most three months old. It was about eight inches long, and was preserved in a tub of water, in which it was daily supplied with fresh grass. When it was taken out of the water and placed on the sand, it ran about with much alacrity. Its head was disproportionately large, and it had already double rows of sharp teeth.

In the afternoon we saw a volunteer company, of about twenty and upwards strong, pretty well equipped, turn out to celebrate the anniversary of the battle of New Orleans, the eighth of January, 1815. On the preceding day, being Sunday, this festival was not commemorated. They had erected a platform on an open spot of ground, and brought there three old iron pieces, with which a national salute of twenty-four guns was fired. Colonel Wool had many acquaintances and countrymen here, from the north, to whom he introduced me. Conversation, therefore, did not fail us, though many comforts of life are withheld for a period. Thus, for example, I was deprived of milk so long as I was in the Indian territory, as the cattle were driven into the woods during the winter, to support themselves.

I made an attempt to pass round the town, but was prevented on one side by woods, and on the other, by ditches and marshes, so that I found myself limited in my promenade to the streets. These, however, I measured to my heart’s content. There was nothing new to me but some fruit shops, in which were excellent oranges from Cuba, at six cents a piece, large pine apples, much larger than the finest I had seen in England, also from Cuba, at forty-two and three-quarter cents a piece, thus much dearer than in Charleston, where they cost but twelve and a half cents a piece, besides bananas and cocoa nuts in abundance.

[CHAPTER XVIII.]

Travels to Pensacola.

Colonel Wool was obliged to go to Pensacola, in pursuance of his duty of inspection. I determined to accompany him with Mr. Huygens, as Pensacola was interesting to me as a military man. Mr. Bowdoin felt himself unwell, and was tired of travelling. He remained, therefore, in Mobile, with the intention of going to New Orleans by the first opportunity.

On the 10th of January, we left Mobile in the steam-boat Emeline. This vessel goes daily from Blakely, which lies on the left shore of the bay, to Mobile, and back again. The distance amounts, in a straight line, to about twelve miles; some marshy islands covered with cane and shallows, lengthen the passage to fourteen miles. The Emeline, Captain Fowler, is the smallest steam-boat that I ever saw. She is only of thirty-two tons burthen, is built of planks, which are laid over each other without ribs, like a skiff, and the engine, a low pressure, has only eight horse-power. The boat belongs to the captain, and, with its engine, was constructed in New York. When it left that city to sail for Mobile, no insurance company would undertake to underwrite it, and Mr. Fowler was compelled to come on his individual risk. His capital embarked in it, will, nevertheless, produce a very good profit. Yet the smallest steam-boats which navigate the Florida and Alabama rivers, are insured. Some are too old and rotten for any company to insure, especially as the navigation on these rivers is so dangerous, that the few good vessels must give one per cent. monthly, as a premium.

From the water side, Mobile, with its ships in harbour, has a pretty appearance. We had also a handsome view of Mobile Bay, in which we counted nine ships of various sizes stretching in. A number of wild ducks flew about among the islands. In two hours we crossed the bay, and landed at five o’clock in the evening at Blakely.

This place has a very good situation, on rather an elevated bank, in a grove nearly composed of live oaks, of which some are full twenty feet in circumference. A bushy kind of palm tree grows here which is called Spanish bayonet, which appears to partake of the nature of the macaw trees. Blakely was founded in the year 1816, by a Mr. Blakely, dead about five years since, and then sold to various speculators. This place was established to injure Mobile, and to draw the commerce of that place away from it. The design has, however, failed of success. Mobile is superior in capital, and Blakely has injured itself alone. Upon the shore stand two large wooden buildings in ruins, the smallest part of them only is rented, and used as stores. On the eminence behind these buildings are placed about twenty wooden houses, of which the largest is the only tavern, and it is really a respectable one. We took our lodging there. The houses are very neatly built, with projecting roofs and piazzas, and surrounded with gardens. Some, however, are deserted, and exhibit the decay of the place. A large wooden edifice two stories high, provided with a cupola, was originally intended for an academy; from the want of scholars, this academy has never been in operation, the building therefore is used as a place of worship, and as a court-house. The number of inhabitants cannot exceed two hundred.

During our ramble it had become dark; the moon was in her first quarter. The air was as warm as in a fine May evening in Germany. All was pleasant and cheerful, and only our recollection that this handsome country was poisonous in summer, produced a discord with the scene. In the evening I sat and wrote in one of the rooms of the tavern with open doors and windows, and heard the sparrow chirp as if it were summer. I had noticed very few sweet orange trees in this part of the country, and the few which I saw were small and young. As I manifested my surprise, the reason was given, that the numerous orange trees which formerly were here, had been all killed in the winter of 1821-22, by a four day’s frost.

Before we commenced our journey the next morning, I found in the earth several pieces of petrified live oak. The mineral riches of this district are not yet explored. I imagine, that a mineralogist, who should here prosecute his researches, might reap a rich harvest.

We hired a two-horse barouche, which was to carry us to Pensacola, sixty-five miles distant from Blakely. In this, we departed about ten o’clock in the morning, well stocked with plenty of provision, which, in this country, so destitute of inns, was considered as a necessary supply. Close to Blakely we ascended a hill, which afforded us a very beautiful view of the town, the bay of Mobile, and of a valley watered by a stream, with the richest prospect of vegetation I ever beheld. The grove before us was full of magnolias of all sizes, of laurels, and an evergreen bush that was called the water oak; and among them all, the most splendid live oaks. Unfortunately this lovely country did not reach very far. Scarcely a short mile from Blakely, the good soil ceased, and the wearisome sand and long-leaved pines began once more. We advanced but thirty miles during the day; a delicious warm state of the weather, however, cheered us. At first we found several plantations which the inhabitants of Blakely, in somewhat easy circumstances, resorted to during the summer, when the yellow fever occupied that place. On some of these plantations, the dry rice, (so called from the fields which produce it lying so high that they cannot be overflowed,) is cultivated. This rice is little inferior to the swamp rice of South Carolina, and will yield fifty bushels to the acre. I regaled myself with the melody of several birds, of which most were robins, birds of passage, which live through the winter in these southern countries, and in the spring, approach the north, there to announce it. I saw also several cranes. To complete the illusion, that it was summer, a number of frogs lent their aid, and croaked loudly from the marshes.

We halted at noon, in a shady place, near a clear brook, and dispatched a part of our provisions, seated on a dry green turf. For the first time in my life, a shade in January was a desirable object. The night overtook us before we reached our lodgings for the night, which we intended to take up at a place called Belle Fontaine. The road was hardly discernible, for it was so little travelled, that grass grew in the tracks, and the stumps of trees were as difficult to avoid, as they were frequent. We risked oversetting more than once. To avoid such an accident, we determined to proceed on foot. We took in this way, a walk of at least six miles, in an unbroken pine forest, inhabited by bears, wolves, and even panthers. At first we had the light of the moon; about nine o’clock it went down, and we had considerable difficulty to keep the road. As the dwellings were scattering from each other, we imitated the barking of dogs, to give them an opportunity to answer in the same language. This succeeded; we heard dogs bark, moved in the direction whence the sound came, and reached about ten o’clock, the desired Belle Fontaine, a log house with two rooms, or cabins, and a cleared opening before it. A man of rather unpromising appearance, the landlord, Mr. Pollard, admitted us, and took charge of our horses. His wife, a pale, sickly looking being, who hardly returned an answer to our questions, was obliged to rise from her bed, to prepare us a supper and sleeping-room. The whole establishment had at first, the look of a harbour for robbers, but there was well roasted venison prepared for us, on a neat table, and tolerable coffee, for which we had, luckily, brought sugar along with us. It was really comfortable, though our chamber remained open the whole night, as there was no door, and only two beds were furnished.

The 12th of January we left our quarters at seven in the morning, and travelled thirty-two miles to Pensacola. Twelve miles from Belle Fontaine brought us to a stand at the Perdido, where we breakfasted at a plantation, situated on the right bank of the river. This stream forms the boundary between Alabama and the territory of Florida, which does not yet contain inhabitants sufficient to entitle it to a reception among the states of the Union. The river is small, its banks sandy, and we crossed it in a poor ferry-boat. On the banks, as generally through the whole of that district, I saw many bushy palms, here called palmattoes. The soil on the whole, was as bad as that we saw yesterday, the growth was pine; there is fresh vegetation only about the springs. The air grew still warmer, we saw a few butterflies. As we approached Pensacola, the pines ceased, and we moved through dwarf oaks. The soil was a deep sand; we passed by a marsh full of water oaks.

Pensacola, which we reached about five o’clock, lies upon a bay of the ocean. It is an ancient Spanish town, and was surrendered by Spain with all Florida, to the United States in 1821. It contains about one thousand inhabitants. We lodged ourselves in Collins’s Hotel, and went, immediately on our arrival, to walk about the town. It is the most miserable place that I have beheld since I crossed the Atlantic. Such Spaniards as possessed any property have left this place, when it was ceded to the United States, and have moved off either to New Orleans, or the island of Cuba. Only the poorest of them have remained. Since that time, the Americans settled here, have, as at Mobile, created a new population. The deepest sand covers the unpaved streets, which are broad, and regularly laid out. Only a few new houses are of brick, they are mostly of wood, and stand at a considerable distance from each other. There is not a single ship in the port. A new market-house of brick is building upon the shore, and not far from it stands the wooden catholic church, the outside of which appears in a forlorn condition. Near the church are the ruins of an old English barrack, which was burnt about four years ago; its two wings were covered by two block houses of logs, which are standing, one of which serves for a custom-house. About the town several block houses have stood, which formerly afforded a good protection against the Seminole Indians, the original inhabitants of this section of country.

In the evening of this day, and on the next morning we received visits from several officers, from Colonel Clinch, commandant of the 4th regiment of infantry, who was posted here with Major Wright and others. Captain Campbell of the Marine Corps, who had the command of the new navy-yard, that was to be established here: some supplies had arrived, and were put in store at Fort Barrancas. As we wished to see this fort, the gentlemen were so polite as to accommodate us with their boats.

I went with Colonel Wool in Captain Campbell’s boat. We had a favourable wind, and spreading two sails we reached fort Barrancas, nine miles by sea from Pensacola, in an hour. On the way we saw a flock of sixteen pelicans. On account of the point of land stretching into the bay, we had to make a circuit; it was called Tartar point, and the new navy-yard is to be upon it. It is thought that it will be commenced in two months. The country about Pensacola and the shores of the bay are the most disagreeable that can be conceived of; nothing but sand heaps dazzling-white like snow. In the bay lies a level island, St. Rosa, with a growth of dwarf oaks. On it had been erected a fort, which was blown up by the English, when they occupied Pensacola in the year 1814, to support the Creek Indians then at war with the United States, and were compelled to evacuate it by General Jackson. The English blew up also a part of Fort Barrancas at the same time, but the Spaniards have reinstated it, although on a smaller scale; thus it remains at present.

The cannon are of brass, English and Spanish. Among the latter I observed two very fine twenty-four pounders, cast in Seville. Nothing can be more unhandy than the Spanish gun-carriages, they have wheels, which at the outside measure four feet in diameter.

In the gorge of the works, there is a large bomb-proof casemate, and in the yard a furnace for red-hot shot. The whole of the work is built of sand, therefore the wall outside, and the parapet inside, are covered with upright planks, and the cheeks of the embrazures in the same manner. The Spanish cannon, also mounted on the clumsiest carriages, are placed in battery. The fort was temporarily given up to the marines, who employed the casemates and block houses for magazines, till the requisite preparations could be made in the navy-yard. At that period, the fort will be dismantled, and in its place a respectable fortress will be erected to defend this important point.

It is of the highest consequence to the United States, to have an extensive maritime and military position on the Mexican gulf, on account of the increasing power of the new South American Republics. Nevertheless, Pensacola can only be of secondary ability to fill such a station, since the sand bank lying in the mouth of the bay, has only twenty-two feet upon it at high water; and necessarily, is too shallow for ships of the line, or even American frigates of the first class. Besides, upon the whole coast of the Gulf of Mexico, there is but one single bay, (and this is situated southward of La Vera Cruz,) in which armed ships of the line can pass in and out. The pieces of ordnance placed upon the walls, as well as some forty lying upon the beach, half covered with sand, of old Spanish and English cannon, are, as is said, perfectly unserviceable.

Outside of the fort, about two hundred paces distant from it, along the sea-coast, stands a light house built of brick, about eighty feet high, in which twenty lamps in divisions of five, constantly turn upon an axis in a horizontal movement during the night. They are set in motion by clock-work, and were prepared in Roxbury, near Boston. I saw the model in the patent office at Washington. The lamps are all furnished with plated reflectors, and are fed with spermaceti oil. The land about the fort is for the most part sandy, and produces only pines naturally, these however have been rooted out, and dwarf oaks and palmettoes have since sprouted out.

I have mentioned General Jackson above, and surmised that he had driven the English out of Pensacola. I add to this remark the following: the Seminoles, as it is asserted, manifestly stirred up by the English, without the least provocation, commenced a war against the United States, in the year 1818. General Jackson defeated them, and directed the two Englishmen, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, who had sold weapons and ammunition to the Indians, as well as stimulated them to war against the United States, to be hanged. After this, he attacked Pensacola and the Barrancas, where the Indians were sheltered and protected by the Spanish authorities. The town of Pensacola was poorly fortified and soon mastered. General Jackson then opened a cannonade of two pieces of artillery on Fort Barrancas. The Spanish governor hid himself under the steps of the coast battery, and surrendered the fort, since by the agreeing statement of two captains, the garrison refused to fight, (consisting of three companies of the Spanish regiment of Louisiana,) because they had not received their pay for some time. “Audacibus fortuna juvat!”

On the 14th of January I took a walk in front of the town to view the former fortifications of this place. These works owe their foundation to the English. England, indeed avowedly possessed this country, West Florida, from 1763 to 1783; at the treaty of Versailles, it was fully given up to Spain, after it had been conquered by Don Galvez, then governor of Louisiana, who afterwards was Viceroy of Mexico. The best defence of Pensacola consists in the marshes which surround it. Beyond the marshes lie undistinguishable sand hillocks, which were occupied by forts. A thousand paces in front of the town, to the left of the road leading to Mobile, lies a fort.

The form of this fort, I made out from the remains grown over with bushes. Behind it was open, and there are still the ruins of a bomb-proof powder magazine, built of brick, which the English blew up in 1814. It appeared partly covered with timber. A thousand paces farther to the left, are the ruins of another somewhat larger fort, upon another small eminence so disposed as to command the interior of the first. It appears to have been calculated for from four to five hundred men, while the first could only shelter two hundred. The ramparts of both are composed merely of sand, and the high bushes of various species, which flourish to a remarkable degree on the ruins, exhibit the productive force of the climate. The soil around the forts, also consisting of sand only, yields palmettoes and dwarf oaks. I had remarked the same soil upon the land side of Fort Barrancas, and besides cactus, some of which grew in a screw-like form through the bricks, many of them in the driest sand. In 1782, a handful of Waldeckers, then in English pay, defended these works against fifteen thousand Spaniards, and in the absence of an English engineer, the captain there, and the present Lieutenant-General Heldring, of the Netherlands, discharged that duty.

Colonel Walton, secretary of state of Florida, who had just returned in a vessel from Talahasse, told me so much of the beautiful situation, and delicious country about that town, only laid out within a year, as well as of the interior of Florida, with its rising and falling springs and lakes, the discharge of which no one was acquainted with, that I was sorry I could not visit that place, to which the fourth regiment had marked out a road. Thirty miles from Talahasse, Prince Achille Murat, in company with the former colonel, now Mr. Gadsden, purchased much land, on which he will cultivate maize, cotton and sugar. M. Murat must be a young man of great spirit. It is, however, charged against him, that he has addicted himself to a low familiar behaviour, in which he appears to wish to excel; that he chews tobacco constantly, &c.

I paid a visit to the catholic clergyman of this place, Abbé Mainhout, a native of Waerschot, in East Flanders. The Abbé came in 1817, with the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, as a missionary to the United States. This excellent man does very little credit to the climate, he is now just recovering from a severe fit of sickness. He is universally esteemed and loved on account of his exemplary conduct and learning: and as he is the only clergyman in the place, the inhabitants of whatever persuasion they may be, resort to his church. He was pleased with my visit, particularly, as I brought him news from his native land.

Colonel Clinch sent us his carriage, to carry us to the quarters, where Colonel Wool was to hold his inspection. Since the English barracks have been burnt, the troops have been stationed out of town in preference, from apprehension of the yellow fever. There is a large wooden barracks built in a healthy situation, on an eminence two miles from town on the road to the Barrancas, for the troops. These barracks in the phrase of this service are called cantonments, this one, after the colonel, is named cantonment Clinch. It consists of ten log-houses built in a row, under one roof. Each house is for a company, and contains two rooms. Before this long range of barracks, is a large parade, with a flag staff. Opposite to this are the officers quarters. The officers of each company have a house, which stands opposite to the barrack of their own soldiers. Behind the long building for the men, is the range of kitchens; behind this is the guard house and prisoners room, and still farther back in the woods, the etcetera. On the right wing is the colonel’s house, placed in a garden surrounded by a palisade. The house is built of wood, two stories high, and furnished with a piazza below, and a gallery above. Upon the left wing, stands a similar building appointed for the residence of the lieutenant colonel and major; at present, however, arranged as an hospital, as the first officer commands in Tampa Bay, and the major in Fort Mitchel. The cantonment has its front towards the bay; at the foot of the eminence on which it stands, is a bayou, and the appearance is really handsome. The colonel has only two officers and about twenty men, with the regimental surgeon, so that the inspection was soon completed.

After dinner we returned to the town, and passed the evening in a very pleasant party at Mr. Walton’s, which was given from politeness to me. I found here several Creole ladies of the place, who spoke bad French, but looked very well, and were dressed with taste. Conversation was our only amusement, but this was animated and well supported.

On the 15th of January we left Pensacola, at eight o’clock in the morning, to return to Mobile by the same way we came. We encountered a skunk, something larger than a cat, with a thick, hairy, and erect tail. This creature cannot run with agility, and we could easily have caught it. We, however, suffered it to go quietly to its hole, as it scatters its effluvium when disturbed, and if the least piece of clothing be touched by it, it must be thrown away entirely, as there is no method of freeing it from the detestable smell. If a dog is sprinkled by it he become almost sick, whines, and throws himself about for some time on the earth. We passed also two wolf-traps, resembling our rat-traps, but of course constructed on a larger scale.

We made a short stay at the house on Perdido river. We met with a planter from the banks of the Alabama, who had come here to take back one of his negroes, whom he had hired before to the mistress of this house and ferry. He had treated the poor creature with such barbarity, that the negro not far from the house had threatened him with the knife, and had ran back. The man had put us across the river, but as soon as he saw his master, he ran away quickly, and was no more to be seen. The gentleman asked us to assist him in arresting and detaining his negro, but we unanimously rejected his proposal with disgust. Some days before, the negro had pleased me much by his lively and agreeable disposition, while his master and tormentor appeared to me, in every respect, highly the reverse.

About five o’clock in the afternoon we reached the same log-house in which we had passed the night, near Belle Fontaine. As it was still daylight, I went immediately in search of the spring to which this place owes its name; I found, however, only a marsh with several springs, about which, except the vegetation, there was nothing attractive. The landlord was not at home, and the whole domestic management rested on the poor pale wife, who had five children to take care of, and expected a sixth soon. She had for an assistant a single little negro wench, who was soon sent away, so the poor woman had every thing to provide; yet she set before us an excellent supper.

Towards morning, I was roused out of my uneasy slumbers by a powerful uproar. It was caused by cranes that flew over the house. At eight o’clock in the morning we left Belle Fontaine and travelled back to Blakely, where we arrived before five o’clock in the evening, and took possession of our former quarters. Through the whole passage back, not the least thing occurred worthy of remark. A good road could be made at little expense between Blakely and Pensacola, at least the numerous large trees, which after violent storms have fallen transversely over the road and shut it up, might be cleared away. One is obliged often to make a considerable circuit on account of these trees.

On the following morning at ten o’clock, we embarked once more on board the steam-boat Emeline, and in very fine, though cold weather, reached Mobile at twelve o’clock. We found Mr. Bowdoin confined to his bed, with the gout in both legs. We immediately betook ourselves to the harbour. During our absence, the packet schooner Emblem, Captain Vincent, from New Orleans, had arrived here, and designed returning to that city. The captain had heard of us, and remained some time to take us along. His vessel stood in very high repute, as well for her sailing, as on account of accommodation and cleanliness. We agreed for the passage at fifteen dollars for each person. The vessel would have sailed exactly on this day, but as the captain had understood that we were desirous of seeing the new fort on Mobile point, which was built thirty miles from Mobile, he was so polite as to postpone his voyage till the next morning, to allow us to see the fort by daylight.

Of course, we had some time on our hands. We took a walk in the woods situated behind the town, which is composed of pines, and some evergreen bushes. It is also the great burial-ground, which is thickly filled up by the agency of the yellow fever, and the sickly climate. Several Choctaw Indians bivouacked here, like gypsies; the men lay drunk upon the earth, and their miserable women were obliged to carry the bundles of wood to town for sale.

To my great astonishment, I learned that there were gambling-houses even here, kept by Frenchmen, and that each in the city paid a yearly tax of one thousand dollars for a license. I was told that respectable merchants were in the habit of going there to have an eye over their clerks, and also to observe what mechanics, or other small tradesmen, played here, to stop giving credit to such as haunted the resorts of these gentry. I was taken to two of these gambling-houses, which are united with coffee-houses, to see how they were conducted. In one of them were two roulette tables, in two separate rooms, in the other, which was smaller, one roulette and one pharo table. There was betted here silver and paper, but not more than twenty dollars bank notes, and most of them did not bet more than a dollar a time. A couple of young fellows lost all that they had, and behaved very indecently when they were stripped of their money. Several of the better sort appeared to be country people, who had brought their corn and cotton to market, and only played off their profits. At one of the tables sat some common sailors, half drunk. We found rather low company collected in both houses, and our curiosity was soon satisfied. It is to be hoped, that the legislature of Alabama will prohibit such houses. They are, on the whole, very good places for recruiting the army and navy!

[CHAPTER XIX.]

Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City.

On the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem, whose cabin was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but fifty tons,) but comfortably high, and well ornamented. The sides were of mahogany and maple; on each side were two state-rooms, with two births each; the back part of the cabin, being something higher than the forward part, contained a birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself.

The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and overgrown with wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle Dauphine, by the unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it. Mobile point lies to the left, where, after sunset, we beheld the light in the light-house. There stood on this point in the late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which the present Lieutenant-Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended, with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight hundred disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians, under Major Nichols. The assailants were defeated, after their ordnance was dismounted, with considerable loss, and the English corvette Hermes, which covered the attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In February, 1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to yield to superior force, and to capitulate to Admiral Cockburn, who was on his return from the unsuccessful expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of hostility that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is erecting, which we would willingly have inspected, had the wind been more favourable, and brought us there earlier. We steered between Mobile Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the Mexican gulf, and turning then to the right, southward of the Sandy Islands, which laid along the coast, sailed towards Lake Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a strong wind rose from the west, which blew directly against us. We struggled nearly the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The wind changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was injured by the helm striking him in the side, and was for a time unfit for duty. On account of the great bustle on deck, the passengers could hardly close an eye all night. The motion of the vessel was violent, on account of her small size. A falling block broke out several of the panes in the sky-light of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture was tossed about by the rolling.

On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back to the strait between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point, and the anchor was dropt to prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick, but had the consolation that several passengers shared my misfortune. The whole day continued disagreeable, cold, and cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island, several of our company went on shore, and brought back a few thrushes which they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing nothing but everlasting pines. Upon it, stands some remains of an old entrenchment and barrack. Besides the custom-house officers, only three families live on the whole island. We saw the light-house, and the houses at Mobile Point, not far from us. I wished to have gone there to see the fortification lately commenced, but it was too far to go on a rough sea in a skiff.

On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable; it blew from the north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we set sail. After several delays, caused by striking on sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable wind, passed Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn, and Ship Island.

These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them covered with pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of Holland and Flanders. Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a bay, which is called Pascagoula, from a river rising in the state of Mississippi, and emptying here into the sea. Ship Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the English fleet which transported the troops sent on the expedition against New Orleans, remained during the months of December and January, 1814-15. At a considerable distance from us to the left, were some scattered islands, called Les Malheureux. Behind these were the islands De la Chandeleur, and still farther La Clef du Francmaçon. Afterwards we passed a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast, and arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with Lake Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications, each above a mile broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur, and the other the Rigolets. Both are guarded by forts, the first by the fort of Chef Menteur, the other by that of the Petites Coquilles, so called because it is built on a foundation of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets in the night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we reached Lake Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets, we arrived in Lake Ponchartrain, then turned left from the light-house of Fort St. John, which protects the entrance of the bayou of the same name, leading to New Orleans.

I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St. John. This water is so broad, that we could not see the northern shore. We remained at the entrance one hour, to give the sailors a short rest, who had worked the whole night, and whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to the city, six miles distant. This fort, which has lost its importance since the erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Coquilles, is abandoned, and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies about five hundred paces distant from the sea, but on account of the marshy banks cannot be thence attacked without great difficulty. The bank is covered with thick beams, to make it hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the bayou, is of made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the fort is a public house, called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is much frequented by persons from the city during summer. I recognized the darling amusements of the inhabitants, in a pharo and roulette table.

As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages, we proposed to hire a carriage, but there was none to be found; six dollars was asked for a boat; we therefore, decided to go on foot. The Colonel, Mr. Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew, and myself made up this walking party. The morning was beautiful spring weather; we passed through a shocking marshy country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of palmettoes were the only variety afforded. The causeway was very muddy; there were good wooden bridges over little ditches, which conveyed the water from the surrounding marshes into the bayou.

After we had proceeded three miles in this manner, we came into a cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found ourselves quite in another world. Plantations, with handsome buildings, followed in quick succession; noble live oaks, which had been trimmed to regular shapes, young orange trees, pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes, along the road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered galleries; some of these were of ancient style in building. It was naturally agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in mere wildernesses, once more to come into a long civilized country. We saw from afar, the white spires of the cathedral of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships lying in the Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a turning bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way.

This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over the streets were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the city, as we reached, without knowing it, was really not handsome; for we came into the oldest section, which consisted only of little one-story houses, with mud walls, and wide projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are regularly laid out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular to it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is destroyed, in its room there is a boulevard laid out, called Rue de Remparts. Next to the old town below, lies the suburb Marigny, and above, that of St. Mary; then begins the most elegant part of the city.

Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little through the city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay our homage to this “father of rivers.” It is about half a mile wide, and must be above eighty fathoms deep; it is separated from the city by a compost of muscle shells. This causeway defends it from inundations. There are no wharves, they cannot be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The ships lay four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames, at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats, employed in the river trade. In a line with the bank stood houses, which were two or three stories high, and built of brick, also ancient massive Spanish houses, known by their heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We passed by a square, of which the river formed one side, opposite stood the cathedral, and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with arcades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of brick, modelled after the Propylæa, in Athens, and divided into separate blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges, bananas, peccan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different descriptions; also several shops, in which coffee and oysters were sold. The black population appeared very large; we were informed, that above one-half of the inhabitants, forty-five thousand in number, were of the darker colour. The custom-house on the Levée, is a pretty building.

We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott, to whose house I had letters, who had the politeness to take charge of us, and assist us in our search for lodgings. We obtained tolerable quarters in the boarding house of Madame Herries, Rue de Chartres. The first person I encountered in this house, was Count Vidua, with whom I had become acquainted in New York, and who since had travelled through Canada, the western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi.

My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here inhabits a large, massive, and splendidly furnished house. I found only Mrs. Grymes at home, who after an exceedingly fatiguing journey arrived here, and in fourteen days after had given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly arranged rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and accompanied me back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not yet arrived, we went to meet it and found it in the canal, a mile and a half from town, where two cotton boats blocked up the way. We had our baggage put into the skiff, and came with it into the basin, where the canal terminates.

In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the state of Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him at home. After this we went to several coffee-houses, where the lower class amused themselves, hearing a workman singing in Spanish, which he accompanied with the guitar. Mr. Grymes took me to the masked ball, which is held every evening during the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which they danced, was quite long, well planned, and adorned with large mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically arranged. There were few masks, only a few dominos, none in character. Cotillions and waltzes were the dances performed. The dress of the ladies I observed to be very elegant, but understood that most of those dancing did not belong to the better class of society. There were several adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when subscription balls are given. In the ground floor of the building are rooms, in which pharo and roulette are played. These places were obscure, and resembled caverns: the company playing there appeared from their dress, not to be of the best description.

Next day, we made new acquaintances, and renewed some old ones. I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged to give up my plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was allowed to go to that country who was not a subject of such states as had recognized the new government. There were too many obstacles in my way, and therefore I determined to wait in New Orleans for the mild season, and then to ascend the Mississippi. The result was an extensive acquaintance, a succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from which one cannot refrain yielding to in a city. No day passed over this winter which did not produce something pleasant or interesting, each day however, was nearly the same as its predecessors. Dinners, evening parties, plays, masquerades, and other amusements followed close on each other, and were interrupted only by the little circumstances which accompany life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other.

The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy style of architecture externally, with a gable on which a tower and two lateral cupolas are erected. The façade is so confused, that I cannot pretend to describe it. Within, the church resembles a village church in Flanders. The ceiling is of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the nave into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with plaster: as well as the walls, they are constructed without taste. The three altars are distinguished by no remarkable ornament. Upon one of the side altars stands an ugly wax image of the virgin and child. Near the great altar is a throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this cathedral is visited by the beau monde; except on these occasions, I found that most of the worshippers consisted only of blacks, and coloured people, the chief part of them females.

The sinking of the earth of the Levée is guarded against in a peculiar way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this purpose, and held together by wattling. After the dam is raised up, there are palisades of the same kind placed behind each other. Here the twigs of the palmetto are inserted in the ground close together, and their fan-like leaves form a wall, which prevents the earth from rolling down.

There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have brick side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by the ships from the northern states, and sell here very high. Several side-walks are also laid with broad flag stones. In the carriage way of the streets there is a prodigious quantity of mud. After a rain it is difficult even for a carriage to pass; the walkers who wish to go from one side to the other, have a severe inconvenience before them; either they must make a long digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss, for the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade through, run a risk of sticking fast.

Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New Orleans, that it is in the north. The shops are open, and there is singing and guitar-playing in the streets. In New York, or Philadelphia, such proceedings would be regarded as outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we went for the first time, to the French theatre, in which a play was performed every Sunday and Thursday. The piece for this night, was the tragedy of Regulus, and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was merely tolerable, such as those of the small French provincial towns,[II.3] where they never presume to present tragedies, or comedies of the highest class. “Regulus” was murdered; Mr. Marchand and Madame Clozel, whose husband performed the comic parts very well in the vaudevilles, alone distinguished themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well ornamented; below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided by walls, but only separated by a low partition, so that the ladies can exhibit themselves conveniently. Over the first row of boxes is a second, to which the free colored people resort, who are not admitted to any other part of the theatre, and above this row is the gallery, in which slaves may go, with the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes is a lobby, where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre was less attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it was said, that the great shock felt in the commercial world, on account of the bankruptcy of three of the most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the cause of this desertion.

The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the first and fourth regiments. This has been here since the last insurrection of the negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In case of a serious alarm, this would prove but of little service! and what security is there against such an alarm? In Chartres street, where we dwelt, there were two establishments, which constantly revolted my feelings, to wit: shops in which negroes were purchased and sold. These unfortunate beings, of both sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in front of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference, produced by the custom in white men, is indescribable.[II.4]

There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which the managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took place twice a week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French theatre, where the masquerade had been, which I mentioned before. None but good society were admitted to these subscription balls; the first that we attended was not crowded, however, the generality of the ladies present were very pretty, and had a very genteel French air. The dress was extremely elegant, and after the latest Paris fashion. The ladies danced, upon the whole, excellently, and did great honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and some instruction in music, is almost the whole education of the female creoles.

Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in elegance. They did not remain long at the ball, but hasted away to the quadroon ball, so called, where they amused themselves more, and were more at their ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than gentlemen present at the ball, and that many were obliged to form “tapestry.” When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be “bredouille.” Two cotillions and a waltz, are danced in succession, and there is hardly an interval of two or three minutes between the dances. The music was performed by negroes and coloured people, and was pretty good. The governor was also at the ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others, a Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac, who, having emigrated here from St. Domingo, had married, and given the world some very handsome daughters. Several of the French families here settled, and indeed, the most respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the indemnification due to them, but without any great hopes of receiving it.

Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first and fourth regiments, under Major Twiggs stationed here; both together made at the most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I had no opportunity to observe before, in the troops of the United States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example, the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints, files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manœuvres in battalion training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more; there were also several members of the legislature now assembling, present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present commanded a division of the Louisiana militia. Colonel Croghan also attended the review.[II.5]

When the review was over, the governor showed me the two extensive buildings, joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as before-mentioned. One of them is devoted to the use of the several courts of justice, and the other is the City Hall. In the first, the United States court was holding its sessions, and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed himself to the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro. The buyer had purchased him as a slave for life; after the bargain had been concluded, and payment made, he discovered, by the declaration of his former master, the seller, that at a certain period he was to be free. I could not remain long enough in the court, to wait for the decision.

We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the guard-house of the city guard, besides a prison[II.6] for runaways, or negroes punished by order of their masters, who are here incarcerated, and employed in all servile labours for the city; they are termed negres marrons. The masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents for each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small piece of ordnance, from which the signal tattoo is fired. After this shot, no negro can tread the streets without a pass.[II.7] The upper stories of this building contains the offices and court halls of the magistrates. Part of them were ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as quarters for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building, ran a gallery with very large windows, which being raised in summer, change the gallery into an airy balcony: an arrangement which I had remarked to exist also in the other building, where the courts of justice sat.

Hence the governor next conducted me to the old Spanish government house, in which the senators and representatives of the state of Louisiana were now assembled. The building is ancient and crazy, otherwise situated in a handsome spot on the levée, surrounded by a balcony. There is nothing more done for the repair of this building, as in a few years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The reason given for this is, that many members of the legislature are plain people, who feel embarrassed in New Orleans, and hope to be more at their ease in Donaldsonville. The office of the governor is in the yard, in a small house, where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly had his office.

In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several articles which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which, hereafter, are to be sent to Pensacola. Among these, I remarked brass and iron cannon of various calibres, and from different countries, English, Spanish, and French. There were some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful ornaments and inscriptions. On one was, “ultima ratio regum;” on others, the darling “liberté, egalité.” These pieces were found in the trifling fortifications that formerly surrounded the city, when the United States took possession of Louisiana, in 1803.

During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and steady. The streets became bottomless: holes formed in them, where carriages and carts were in constant peril of upsetting. At first it was cold; while the rain continued, there followed such an oppressive heat, that it was feared an earthquake was about to take place: it thundered and lightened also very heavily.

At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I visited it for the second time, I observed, however, many present by free tickets, and I was told that the company was very much mixed. The unmasked ladies belonging to good society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which were higher than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were some masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels took place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and terminated in the vestibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking, without any interruption from the police.

On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took place. A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white father, as a mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a white father. The quadroons are almost entirely white: from their skin no one would detect their origin; nay many of them have as fair a complexion as many of the haughty creole females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free. Formerly they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at present there are completely fair quadroon males and females. Still, however, the strongest prejudice reigns against them on account of their black blood, and the white ladies maintain, or affect to maintain, the most violent aversion towards them. Marriage between the white and coloured population is forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadroons on their part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will not mix with them, so nothing remains for them but to be the friends, as it is termed, of the white men. The female quadroon looks upon such an engagement as a matrimonial contract, though it goes no farther than a formal contract by which the “friend” engages to pay the father or mother of the quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume the name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve this engagement with as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the altar. Several of these girls have inherited property from their fathers or friends, and possess handsome fortunes. Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a carriage, and their “friends” are forced to bring them in their own conveyances after dark to the ball: they dare not sit in the presence of white ladies, and cannot enter their apartments without especial permission. The whites have the privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by two witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the benefits of as careful an education as most of the whites; they conduct themselves ordinarily with more propriety and decorum, and confer more happiness on their “friends,” than many of the white ladies to their married lords. Still, the white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings. The strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of the old world, cannot be more haughty, overweening or contemptuous towards their fellow creatures, than the expressions of the creole females with regard to the quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free Union. In fact, such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking being very singularly! Many wealthy fathers, on account of the existing prejudices send daughters of this description to France, where these girls with a good education and property, find no difficulty in forming a legitimate establishment. At the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted, the men of that caste, be it understood, are shut out by the white gentlemen. To take away all semblance of vulgarity, the price of admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of the better class can appear there.

As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to acquire a knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and prejudices of the people he is among, therefore I accepted the offer of some gentlemen who proposed to carry me to this quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it much more decent than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under the eyes of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty. Cotillions and waltzes were danced, and several of the ladies performed elegantly. I did not remain long there that I might not utterly destroy my standing in New Orleans, but returned to the masked ball and took great care not to disclose to the white ladies where I had been. I could not however refrain from making comparisons, which in no wise redounded to the advantage of the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of formality.[II.8]

At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed, called the varioloid. It was said to be a species of small-pox, and was described as malignant in the highest degree. Even persons who had undergone vaccination, and those who had passed through the natural small-pox, were attacked by this disorder. The garrison lost six men, of whom two were severely marked. The garrison were placed in the barracks to preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was imported by some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of slaves in the states of Maryland and Virginia have real—(pardon the loathsome expression, I know not how otherwise to designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries for slaves, whence the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other southern states draw their supplies, which increase every day in price. Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return for slaves thus obtained![II.9]

We paid the late governor of the state, Mr. Robinson, a visit. It gave me much pleasure to cultivate his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded with universal respect, and I met in him a highly interesting and well informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner, given by the acting governor, I became acquainted with the former governor and militia general Villaret, as well as with Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who was employed in the navy of the United States as surgeon-general. From this dinner we went to the child’s ball, which was given in the customary ball room of the French theatre, for the benefit of the dancing master. Most of the children were quite charming, and danced very prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years of age, were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies. About eight o’clock the little children left off dancing and were mostly sent home, and in their place the larger girls resumed the dance. The costume of the ladies was very elegant. To my discomfiture, however, a pair of tobacco-chewing gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I received such a sensation of disgust, that I was nearly in the situation of one sea-sick.

On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel Wool, who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took leave. I accompanied him to his steam-boat, which departed at eleven o’clock, and gazed after him for a long time.

I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent, in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese, took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery, the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day.

At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display of magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors opened and we beheld another dining room, in which stood a table with the dessert. We withdrew from the first table, and seated ourselves at the second, in the same order in which we had partaken of the first. As the variety of wines began to set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies rose, retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for amusement. Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle, while others, among whom I was one, followed the ladies, and regaled ourselves with harmony. We had waltzing until ten o’clock, when we went to the masquerade in the theatre of St. Phillip’s street, a small building, in which, at other times, Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them addressed me, and coquetted with me some time, in the most subtle and amusing manner.

A young lawyer from Paris, of the name of Souliez, paid me a visit. He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his native country, on account of some liberal publications which he had made against the Jesuits in the newspapers. On this account, he, full of liberal ideas, had left his home, and gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from bishop Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the state of things widely different from what he had fancied them at home. The consequence was, he had come to the United States, and he now candidly confessed that he was completely cured of his fine dreams of liberty.

Dr. Herman gave a dinner, at which were more than twenty guests. Among them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and several of the public characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was slowly recovering from his gout, and Count Vidua, were also there. Except our hostess there was no lady present. Mrs. Herman, a very beautiful young woman, was very unwell, and obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid.

We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest, such a boat is styled a “ferry-boat.” This was the only stated means of communication supported between the city and the right bank. Formerly there was a steam ferry-boat, and afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor the other could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived on the right bank, we found a little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville, that did not appear very thriving. Along the bank runs a levée, to protect the land from inundation. Several vessels are laid up here. The country is exceedingly level, and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however, by long ugly moss. Farther inward is a sugar plantation belonging to Baron Marigny. The river makes a remarkable bend opposite New Orleans, and the city, with its white spires, and crowds of vessels lying in the stream, looks uncommonly well from the right bank.

General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house, which is eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the politeness to bring us in his carriage. At half past eleven o’clock, I went out with Count Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in a sugar plantation are termed, is upon the left bank of the Mississippi, about a short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the English army for head quarters. The road to it led along the levée, past country houses, which succeeded each other rapidly for five miles. Several display the comfort and good taste of their owners. The mansion-house, commonly, is situated about one hundred paces from the entrance, and an avenue of laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical form, and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas and covered galleries. Back of the elegant mansion-house stand the negro cabins, like a camp, and behind the sugar-cane fields, which extend to the marshy cypress woods about a mile back, called the cypress swamp. Among these country-houses is a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which are employed in the education of female youth.

Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of M‘Carthy, now belonging to Mr. Montgomery, in which General Jackson had his head quarters. About one hundred paces farther, commences the right of the line, to the defence of which this general owes his great renown. I left the carriage here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a mile in length, with the right wing on the river, and the left resting on the cypress swamp.

The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles distant from General Villaret’s dwelling. On the 23d of December, a company of soldiers attacked this house, and took two of the general’s sons prisoners. The third of his sons escaped, and brought to General Jackson, whose head quarters were at that time in the city, the intelligence of the landing and progress of the British. Immediately the alarm guns were fired, and the general marched with the few troops and militia under his command, not two thousand in number, against the habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves here, with the intent to attack the city directly, which was without the least protection. The general advanced along the line of the woods, and nearly surprised the English. He would probably have captured them, if he had had time to despatch a few riflemen through the generally passable cypress swamp to the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a sudden fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back, and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the river and the cypress swamp, while he took up his head quarters in the habitation of M‘Carthy.

There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next day some young men of the militia commenced, on their own motion, to throw up a little breast-work, with the spades and shovels they found in the habitation. This suggested to the general the idea of forming a line here. This line was, however, the very feeblest an engineer could have devised, that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to make the breast work of the requisite height and strength, since, if the ground here was dug two feet, water flowed out. To remedy this evil in some measure, a number of cotton bales were brought from the warehouses of the city, and the breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these bales artillery was placed, mostly ship’s cannon, and they endeavoured, by a redoubt erected on the right wing at the levée, to render it more susceptible of defence; especially as no time was to be lost, and the offensive operations of the British were daily perceptible; still the defensive preparations which General Jackson could effect were very imperfect. The English force strengthened itself constantly, they threw up batteries, widened the canal leading from Villaret’s to Lake Borgne, so as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered this canal by several detached entrenchments.

A cannonade was maintained by their batteries for several days on the American line, but they could not reach it, and had several of their own pieces dismounted by the well-directed fire of the American artillery. Finally, on the 8th of January, after General Jackson had time to procure reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen of Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well covered by the cotton bales, and each of which had one or two men behind him, to load the rifles, the English commenced storming the line, under Sir Edward Packenham’s personal direction. The soil in front of the line consisted of perfectly level cane fields, which had been cut down, not a single tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate Englishmen, whose force in the field was reckoned at from eight to ten thousand men, were obliged to advance without any shelter, and remain a long time, first under the fire of the well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of the rifles and small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect any thing in return against them. The first attack was made upon the left wing of the line. The British did not reach the ditch, but began soon to give way. Sir Edward attempted to lead them on again; a cannon-shot, however, killed his horse and wounded him in both legs. The soldiers carried him off, but he unluckily received some rifle-shots, that put an end to his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals Gibbs and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed and the latter mortally wounded. By this the troops, who had continually supported a most murderous fire, were at length obliged completely to give way. Major-general Lambert, who commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at this period the whole command of the army devolved, made a last attempt to force the line. He led his troops in a run upon the batture, between the levée and the river, (which at that time was very low,) against the right wing of the line, where the small redoubt was placed, stormed, and took possession of it, but was forced, by the well-supported fire of the riflemen behind the line, to evacuate it again. The English colonel of engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the breast-work, in this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt, the English retreated to their entrenchments at Villaret’s, and in a few days re-embarked.

During the failure of this principal attack, the English had conveyed eight hundred men to the right shore of the river, who gained some advantages there against insignificant entrenchments. These advantages, when they heard of the bad results of the main attack, they were obliged to abandon, and to return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right wing, and the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all probability General Jackson would have been obliged to evacuate not only his lines, but the city itself. Providence surely took the city under its protection; for the English were promised the plunder of New Orleans in case of success, as was asserted in that city: General Jackson moreover had given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up the powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy the public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four corners. The general himself so fully recognized the hand of Providence in the event, that on the day after his victory, he expressed himself to Bishop Dubourg thus: that he knew the city owed its preservation to a merciful Providence alone, and that his first step should be on his return to the city, to thank God in his temple for the victory so wonderfully obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions for a thanksgiving, and it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere feeling of gratitude.

From the battle ground to General Villaret’s dwelling, we had three miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry weather, and the road, which after a hard rain, must be bottomless, was on that account, hard and good. The Mississippi has the peculiarity possessed by several streams in Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret, was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it has inclined so much to the right, that it constantly wears away the soil there, while it forms new deposits to the left. The general’s possessions are therefrom increased, and that with very good soil. The visit of the English nearly ruined the general. Their landing on this side was so entirely unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove the least of his property. The English took all the cattle away, as well as above sixty negroes. There has not been any intelligence of what was the fate of these negroes, probably they were sold in the West Indies. All the fences, bridges, and negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was only spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son of the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was obliged to remain in the house the whole time it was retained, and was very well treated by the English generals and officers. As the English were on the point of re-embarking, General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred dollars in silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the cattle carried off. The young man went to the city, and delivered the money to his father. General Villaret requested General Jackson to send a flag of truce on board the English fleet, to carry the money back to General Lambert, with a letter from General Villaret. This was done, but the general never received an answer.

The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the General, from which, as he told me himself, it cost him much trouble gradually to recover. The canal or bayou, which ran from his plantation to Lake Borgne, was shut up by order of General Jackson after the retreat of the English, and there were not labourers sufficient left with General Villaret to reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the conveyance of wood and other necessaries.

We found at the general’s, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr. Lavoisne, and several gentlemen from the city, among them Governor Johnson. We took some walks in the adjacent grounds. The house was not very large, and was not very much ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it was a brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill. Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins for the house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were removed farther off. The whole is surrounded by cane fields, of which some were then brought in, and others all cut down. A field of this description must rest fallow for five years, and be manured, before being again set out in plants. For manure, a large species of bean is sown, which is left to rot in the field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is commonly cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre one of which is put in motion by a horse-mill underneath, so as to turn the other by crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between these, and must pass twice through to be thoroughly squeezed out. The fresh juice thus pressed out, runs through a groove into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into the kettles, in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together, so as to pour the juice when it boils from one to the other, and thus facilitate the evaporation of the water. The boiling in these kettles lasts one hour; one set gives half a hogshead of brown sugar. In several of the plantations there is a steam-engine employed in place of the horse-power: the general’s misfortunes have not yet permitted him to incur this expense.

After dinner we walked in the yard, where we remarked several Guinea fowls, which are common here, a pair of Mexican pheasants, and a tame fawn. Before the house stood a number of lofty nut-trees, called peccan trees. At the foot of one, Sir Edward Packenham’s bowels are interred; his body was embalmed and sent to England. In the fields there are numbers of English buried, and a place was shown to me where forty officers alone were laid. We took leave of our friendly host at sundown, and returned to the city.

On Shrove Tuesday, all the ball-rooms in the city were opened. I went to the great masked ball in the French theatre. The price of admission was raised to two dollars for a gentleman, and one dollar for a lady. There was dancing, not only in the ball-room, but also in the theatre itself, and on this occasion, the parterre was raised to a level with the stage. The illumination of the house was very good, and presented a handsome view. Many of the ladies were in masks, and intrigued as well as they were able. I could not restrain my curiosity, and visited the quadroon ball in the theatre of St. Philippe. It however was too late when I arrived there, many of the ladies had left the ball, and the gentlemen, a motly society, were for the most part drunk. This being the case, I returned after a quarter of an hour to the principal ball. But here too, some gentlemen had dipped too deep in the glass, and several quarrels with fists and canes took place. The police is not strict enough here to prevent gentlemen from bringing canes with them to balls. The balls continue through lent, when they are but little frequented.

On the 12th of February the intelligence of the death of the Emperor Alexander was spread abroad, which had been received by the ship Mogul, yesterday arrived from Liverpool, and by London gazettes of the 24th of December. I could not believe this to be a fact, and betook myself to the office of one of the public papers. I was here given the English gazette to read, and I found, to my no small terror, the detailed account of this sorrowful event. Consternation entered into my mind, on reflecting what effect this must have produced in Weimar, and increased my troubled state of feeling!

The volunteer battalion of artillery of this place is a handsome corps, uniformed as the artillery of the old French guard. It is above one hundred men strong, and presents a very military front. This corps manœuvred about half an hour in the square before the cathedral, and then marched to the City Hall, to receive a standard. Upon the right wing of the battalion, a detachment of flying artillery was placed. The corps had done essential service on the 8th of January, 1815, in the defence of the line, and stands here in high respect.

About four miles below the city Mr. Grymes has a country-seat, or habitation. The house is entirely new, and situated on a piece of ground formerly employed as a sugar-cane field. The new plantings made in the garden, consisted of young orange-trees and magnolias. Behind the house is an artificial hill, with a temple upon it, and within the hill itself, a grotto, arranged artificially with shells. At the entrance stands a banana tree, and this, with several creeping plants, will conceal it very well in summer. I observed in the garden several singular heaps of earth, which are hollow within, and stand over a hole in the ground. They are said to be formed by a species of land-crab, for their residence. If a stone be thrown into the hole, you hear that it immediately falls into water. Generally, in this country, you cannot dig more than a foot deep in the earth, without meeting water.

It was pure curiosity that carried me a third time to the masquerade, in St. Philippe’s theatre. It was, however, no more agreeable than the one eight days previous. There were but few masks; and among the tobacco-chewing gentry, several Spanish visages slipped about, who carried sword-canes, and seemed to have no good design in carrying them. Some of these visiters were intoxicated, and there appeared a willing disposition for disturbance. The whole aspect was that of a den of ruffians. I did not remain here a half hour, and learned next day that I was judicious in going home early, as later, battles with canes and dirks had taken place. Twenty persons were more or less dangerously wounded!

It rained very frequently during the first half of the month of February; in the middle it was warm, and for a time, about the 20th, an oppressive heat prevailed, which made me quite lethargic, and operated equally unpleasantly on every one. Indeed a real sirocco blew at this time. It surprised me very much, that with such extraordinary weather, not at all uncommon here, that there should be so many handsome, healthy, and robust children. This climate, so unhealthy, and almost mortal to strangers, seems to produce no injurious effect upon the children born here.

In the vacant space, where the walls of New Orleans formerly stood, are at present the Esplanade rue des Remparts, and rue du canal. The city proper forms a parallelogram, and was once surrounded by a palisade and a ditch. At each of the four corners stood a redoubt. The last of these redoubts, which stood at the entrance of the Fauxbourg Marigny, was demolished only since the last war. It would be important for the security of the present inhabitants, to have a fortress on the bank of the river, so that in case of an insurrection of the negroes, not only the trifling garrison, but the white women and children should possess a place of refuge, which is now totally wanting. The ditch is filled up, and planted with trees; there are no buildings newly erected here, and these open spaces are the worst parts of the city.

On the night of the 22d of February, the alarm bell was sounded: a fire had broken out in the warehouse of a merchant. There was time to save every thing, even the wooden building was not consumed, but in the course of two hours the fire was extinguished.

On the same day, was celebrated the birth of the great Washington. All the vessels lying in the river were adorned with flags, and fired salutes. The volunteer legion of Louisiana was called out in full uniform, to fire volleys in honour of the day. The artillery before mentioned, which gave thirteen discharges from two pieces, distinguished themselves again by their excellent discipline. The infantry was very weak, not exceeding fifty men, with a most monstrous standard. A company of riflemen of thirty men, who had done good service on the 8th of January, 1815, appeared very singular in their costume: it consisted of a sky-blue frock and pantaloons, with white fringe and borders, and fur hoods. This legion was established in the last war, and considering itself independent of the militia, it has clothed itself after the French taste, and is officered by Frenchmen.

In the evening there was a subscription ball, in the ball-room of the French theatre. This ball was given also, on account of the festival celebrated this day. In former years, each person had subscribed ten dollars for this ball; the saloon had been decorated with Washington’s portrait, and a number of standards, and a splendid supper spread for the ladies. This year the subscription had been reduced to three dollars for a ticket, and hardly filled up at that price. It was attempted to be accounted for, by the critical juncture of commercial affairs, in which the city was placed; the true cause, however, might be traced to the incomprehensible want of attachment among the creoles to the United States. Although the city of New Orleans, and the whole state of Louisiana, has benefited extremely by its union with the United States, and daily increases; yet the creoles appear rather to wish their country should be a French colony, than annexed to the Union. From their conversations, one would conclude that they do not regard the Americans as their countrymen. This aversion certainly will lessen, as the better part of the young people acquire their scientific education in the northern states; at this moment, however, it is very powerful. Under this state of things, Mr. Davis, the manager of the French theatre, the balls, and several gaming houses, announced a masked ball, at one dollar admission, for Washington’s birth-night. The young ladies, however, to whom a subscription ball was in anticipation, and on account of it had prepared a fresh set of ornaments, to assist their toilet, felt themselves exceedingly disappointed by this arrangement; as there would be a very mixed company at the masked ball, and they would not be able to distinguish themselves by individual ornament. For this reason, their parents and relations had exerted themselves, and happily brought it to pass, that instead of a ticket ball, there should be one by subscription. In fact, this ball was very splendid, so far as the dress of the ladies contributed thereto. Moreover, no battles took place.

In the neighbourhood of the city, some Choctaw Indians hunted, and lived a wandering life. They frequently resorted to the city to sell the produce of their hunting, also canes, palmetto baskets, and many other articles. The money for these was afterwards consumed in liquor. They are of very dark colour, have coats made of woollen blankets; wear mocassins, and undressed leather leggings, necklaces of checkered glass beads, with a large shell in the form of a collar, silver rings in the nose and ears, and smooth copper rings on the wrists. The children until four years old are quite naked; only wearing mocassins, leggings, and the rings round the wrists.

In a tavern on the Levée, there was a collection of fossil bones, which had been dug out of a swamp, not far from the mouth of the Mississippi, the preceding year, and must have belonged to a colossal amphibious animal. The single piece of the spine remaining appeared to be that of a whale; a single rib however, also found, was too much curved ever to have been the rib of a whale. The largest piece of those that were dug up, appeared to be a jaw bone. Unfortunately I understand too little of these things, to be able to venture upon a description of these remarkable remains of an apparently antideluvian animal; certainly it would be worth the trouble of having them examined and described by a scientific person. Two of the bones appeared to have belonged to the legs, and from these alone, some would determine, that the animal was a crocodile. I was informed at this time—I say, with Herodotus, that I only tell now what others have told me, and perhaps some one may either believe it, or know it,—I was told that a perfect skeleton of a mammoth was collected many years ago in one of the meadows, on the banks of the Mississippi, not far from its mouth, and was conveyed to London, and that very old inhabitants had heard as a tradition from their ancestors, that this mammoth had been thrown ashore by the sea, part rotted, and in part was devoured by the buzzards.

There is no particular market day in New Orleans, as in other places, but every morning market is open for all kinds of vegetables, fruits, game, &c. This market is very well provided on Sunday, as the slaves have permission to offer for sale on this day all they desire to dispose of.

I visited Captain Harney of the first regiment of infantry, who in the year 1825, as lieutenant to General Atkinson, had accompanied the expedition to Yellow Stone river, and had brought back with him several of the curiosities of those western regions, so little known. These curiosities consisted of a variety of skins of bears, for example, of the grizzled bear, also skins of buffalo, foxes, of a white wolf, (which is a great rarity,) of a porcupine, whose quills are much shorter than those of the African species, and of wild cats. Besides these, Mr. Harney has procured pieces of Indian habiliments, coats and leggings made of deer skin. The warriors among these Indians wear the mark of their dignity—the scalps—on the leggings, those of the inferior grade on one leg, those higher, on both. The coats are made with a checkered sewing, ornamented partly with glass beads, and partly with split porcupine quills. The Indian women, who are designated by the universal name of squaw, work these ornaments very ingeniously. Mr. Harney showed me also a quiver, made of cougar’s skin with different sorts of arrows, a bow of elk’s horn, strung with tendons drawn from the elk; several tobacco pipes, with heads of serpentine stone, of which I had seen some on Lake Ontario already, hunting pouches, a head dress of eagle’s feathers for the great chief of the Crow nation, a set of the claws of the grizzled bear, which also were worn for ornament, and a tomahawk of flint with a variety of bunches of human hair: for every time a warrior has killed his enemy with his tomahawk, he fastens a bunch of his hair, with a piece of the scalp on his weapon. He farther showed me a pipe made of a sheep’s rib, adorned with glass beads, upon which the Indians blow all the time they are engaged in a fight, so as not to loose themselves in the woods; a spoon made of the horn of a wild mountain ram; various minerals, and among them petrified wood, which is found in great quantities in that western region; serpentine, and other curiosities. The coats of the squaws are trimmed with long thin strips of leather, on one of these a bunch of yellow moss and grass was tied, which the Indians regard as a sort of amulet or talisman.

On the 28th of February, in the forenoon, I went with Mr. Huygens to pay General Villaret a visit at his country-house. A pretty strong west wind moderated the great heat outside of the city; within it, the thermometer of Fahrenheit had stood at eighty-one degrees in the shade. Most of the fruit trees were in blossom. Every where we saw fresh green and bloom; all was fresh and lively. In a sugar-cane field, there were oats a foot and a half high, cut as green fodder. The general and his son were occupied in managing the labours of the field. We went with them to walk in the garden. The soil is very fruitful, that, however, is the most so, which is reclaimed from the swamp of the Mississippi, or the Bayou. In this soil, nevertheless the germ of a real land plague, the coco, as it is called, shows itself, the same which was made use of on the continent of Europe, as a substitute for coffee, during the existence of the vexatious continental system. This knotty growth is principally found in the mud; and one lump or knot of it multiplies itself so extremely quick, that it kills all the plants growing near it, and covers the whole field, in which it has taken root. It is very difficult to extirpate, since the smallest knot, that remains in the earth, serves for the root of a new plant, and several hundred new knots. The legislature of Louisiana, has offered a considerable reward to whoever shall succeed in the discovery of an efficient remedy against this pest of the soil. No one has yet obtained the desired object.

The general explained to me, the manner in which the sugar-cane fields were managed. Parallel furrows are made through them at intervals of three feet. In these furrows, the cane is laid lengthwise, and covered with earth. Some planters lay two cane joints together, others content themselves with but one. The end of the successive piece of cane, is so placed, that it lies about six inches above the end of the first. From each joint of the cane, there shoot up new sprouts, and form new stalks. In St. Domingo, there is another method of arranging the cane field. The field is digged in square holes, placed checkerwise at the distance of three feet apart, in which four pieces of cane are laid in the square, and then covered up. This method is judged the best.

The tragedy of Marie Stuart by Le Brun from Schiller, and a vaudeville, la Demoiselle et la Dame, were produced at the theatre, to which I went. The first piece was announced at the request of several American families, of course there were numbers of ladies of that nation in the boxes. The tragedy of Le Brun is changed very little from that by Schiller; it is only curtailed, and two parts, those of Shrewsbury and Mellvil, are thrown into one. Many scenes in it, particularly the meeting of the two queens, is translated almost word for word. Madam Clozel undertook the part of Marie Stuart, and supported it from beginning to end in a masterly style; but she was not properly supported. Nevertheless, the piece met with great approbation. Unluckily, however, the machinery was not in order. At the close of the piece, when Leicester falls in the greatest distraction into the arms of an officer of the guard, the curtain could not be lowered, and several minutes elapsed, before poor Leicester could leave his painful attitude. On this account the audience made known their displeasure by hissing, which marred very much the effect produced by the piece.

A representation of Hamlet, in the French theatre was uncommonly well attended. The Colombian Commodore Jolly, who had brought a brig of his nation into New Orleans, appeared in uniform, and drew the attention of the public upon himself, partly by his dress, and partly by his huge dress hat, with a white feather. The next morning I made acquaintance with the commodore, and with his two officers, of whom one is a Colombian, and the other an Englishman by birth. The commodore had also taken up his quarters with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman, fifty-six years of age, of which he has passed forty in the West Indies. I carried him and the two officers to visit Governor Johnson, and also Bishop Dubourg. The latter appeared very much flattered by this visit. On going away, the Englishman kissed the Bishop’s hand. He, the bishop, expressed his surprise at receiving this testimony of respect from a protestant; to which the officer replied, that this reverence was paid to the episcopal ring. Mr. Dubourg, indeed, wore a costly amethyst on his finger, as a representation of the fisher’s ring.

For some days back the weather had become oppressively warm, like the heat of summer. Several persons who were not accustomed to this degree of heat, found themselves unwell; it, however, agreed with me. After a while considerable showers of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning took place. The consequence of this was, in one way, that the mud became excessively deep in the streets, but on the other hand, the river began to rise, which occasioned great joy in the city. Numbers of steam-boats, and flat-boats were looked for, with provisions from the western states, as they began to grow scarce and dear.

An acquaintance very dear to me, and of which I shall always preserve a grateful remembrance, was that which I made with Baron Marigny, a creole by birth, and one of the most distinguished inhabitants of the state. One of the suburbs of New Orleans was laid out by his father, and bears his name; at the entrance of it, he lives in a mansion-house, erected with taste and splendour. Never shall I forget the happy days, which I passed in the circle of his amiable family. During the troubles of the French revolution, the then duke of Orleans, found a refuge and active assistance with M. Marigny. After some time, this gentleman made a voyage to France, and was well received by the duke. I saw at his house, a coffee-set of French china, which he had received from him as a present. The cups contained the well executed portraits of the duke, the dutchess, and their nine children, and upon the larger pieces were views of the palais royal, and of the castle and park in Neuilly. The Baron Marigny, also had in his possession a very fine portrait of the duke, painted by Augustin, in Paris; likewise an engraving, representing him, as he supported himself during his exile in Switzerland, by giving lessons in the mathematics.

On the 11th of March, in a small company of ladies and gentlemen, I saw a cosmorama, which was set up here. It is known generally, to be a sort of prospect, given by being in a dark room, and beholding various objects, through glasses of different magnifying powers. This cosmorama contained ten views of different places, which are changed every week. Some views of East Indian antiquities, and remarkable buildings, were well displayed, as also, a representation of a hall in the former prisons of the Inquisition at Goa, not so good; and a couple of views in Japan and Macao, in China. The examination of all the objects, detained us until evening. We then accompanied the ladies home, they lived in a country-house, a mile below the Fauxbourg Marigny, on the Levée. It was eight o’clock as we descended the Levée; the evening was clear, with star-light; the bustle in the harbour had ceased; we only remarked on board of some ships the sailors collected on the deck, under an illuminated awning, where the captain held evening divine service. Precisely at eight o’clock, the retreat-gun fired at the City Hall, which is the signal for the negroes to return home, immediately after, the two Colombian brigs fired, the drums and bugles sounded the retreat, while the barracks of the infantry did the same. All this, added to the lighted ships, and the solitary gleams from the opposite side of the river, made an impression upon me, which I cannot venture to describe. The wretched miry way, in which we nearly stuck fast, was almost forgotten. One of the gentlemen accompanying us, had the politeness to send me home in his chaise. This was a pleasant attention to me, for there are drunken sailors, and fellows of the lower class, (which are called here, as in Mexico, Guichinangos,) in great numbers here, and as these creatures have a strong propensity to street-robbing and stabbing, it is not very prudent to be alone on a dark evening, upon this deserted road.

In an excursion to the country-house of Mr. David Urquhart, I observed the great injury done by the coco, before alluded to, in his garden; it covered both the walks and beds, from which daily industry will not root it out. In the vegetable garden, I found most kinds of those used in Europe, the peas were as large on the 13th of March, as they are in Flanders on the beginning of June; we ate of green peas full three weeks ago. The melons are first deposited in beds of manure, to force them for earlier use, and when they begin to sprout, are planted afresh in the field. The soil is so rich, that it does not require manure. I noticed several fruit trees of various kinds, but was informed, that the fruit produced by them, on account of the intense heat of summer, would not be of good quality.

The brig Arcturus arrived on the 14th of March from Boston, with a cargo of ice. This article is very conducive to comfort in a warm climate, but it is exceedingly difficult to preserve it. Where there is water every where two feet below the surface of the earth, of course, ice-vaults are impracticable. The cargo which now arrived, was thrown into a large brick building, and it was asserted that it would keep there till winter. I examined the construction of this building. A coffer, made of strong thick planks, and some forty feet in height, is provided with a small opening under the roof. Through this opening the ice is thrown in, and again taken out for use. About the coffer there is carried a brick wall, and the vacant space between the wall and the planks of the coffer, which is about two feet, is filled up with a mixture of shavings and saw-dust, which resists the influence of the exterior warm atmosphere.

A great quantity of drift timber was floating on the river, even huge trees. Negroes were busied in small canoes in collecting it, as it serves the residents on the Levée for fire-wood. The largest part of it, however, is driven into the Gulf of Mexico, strikes the gulf stream, is again carried into the Atlantic ocean, and driven upon the shores of Iceland and Greenland, where it serves to warm the miserable inhabitants of those inhospitable countries.

On the 17th of March, I accompanied Commodore Jolly to the criminal court, before which he was cited. The cause thereof was as follows:—The year previous, a Colombian corvette had arrived at New Orleans, from which several sailors deserted. One of these sailors, an Indian, native of Maracaybo, had hired himself as a servant at a Spanish grog-shop, and came on board the Pichincha, Commodore Jolly’s brig, to visit his old comrades, and to induce several to desert. He was recognised as a deserter, and as such arrested. The Spaniard, with whom the sailor Ramirez had served, laid his complaint before the criminal court, and the commodore was cited to appear. The Spaniard had employed two lawyers, a Frenchman, named Canonge, and an old Spaniard, Rodriguez, who defended the cause of the sailor, and laboured to prove the commodore’s proceedings to be illegal. The pleading of the Frenchman was full of common place and far-fetched haranguing. Mr. Rodriguez explained his arguments more logically, though by his Spanish accent he excited great merriment among the audience. The commodore had no counsel, wherefore a Mr. Morel was assigned to him as such, who, as he had no time for preparation, requested the postponement of the cause to the following day. This request was granted.

On the next day, we again visited the criminal court. I was apprized that several Spaniards had combined, and promised five hundred dollars for the setting Ramirez at liberty. They had employed a Mr. Davezac as their third advocate. The officers, some petty officers, and one seaman, of the two brigs, were heard as witnesses. These proved in the fullest manner, that the sailor had deserted from the corvette Ourika last year. The Spaniards produced opposing witnesses. These contradicted each other so vilely in their respective declarations, that they were soon held back, so as not to be involved in a charge of perjury as false witnesses. By this opportunity I learnt, that it was considered difficult among the Spaniards here to obtain a witness for the sum of eight dollars, to say any thing in evidence that was required. And yet that is more than such a complacent witness costs in some other countries. The lawyers put such strange questions to the Colombian witnesses, and particularly to the seamen, (as for instance, in what manner was he enlisted, what was his pay, and how he was paid, how he was fed and treated?) that the judge called them to order several times. Mr. Morel conducted his defence very well, and successfully combated the arguments produced by his antagonists. He then laid down the principle, which certainly is a very just one, that the person who is on board of a vessel of war, is within the limits and jurisdiction of that government to which the vessel may belong. Upon this principle the commodore necessarily must gain his suit, and this he did in a very satisfactory manner.

After the disposal of this cause, on the 17th of March another one was taken up. A resident lawyer, named Lloyd, whose reputation stood very low, had, on the preceding day, insulted the presiding Judge Turner in the street, for which reason the judge had him taken in custody by the sheriff, and thrown into prison. The injured judge presided in his own suit, and in this manner was both judge and party. I was informed that Mr. Turner was insulted in his individual capacity, but that he decided as a judge in the name of the state of Louisiana. This explanation did not satisfy me, the distinction between person and his office, may be correct in theory, it is, however, very hardly so in practice; and on this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary. It appeared unfair also to me, that the judge was not assisted by a jury. Farther, Mr. Lloyd wished to defend his own cause, he was, however, half intoxicated, and attacked the judge so grossly from time to time, that he ordered him frequently to be silent. The examination of the witnesses consumed so much time, that I was obliged to leave the court before the termination of the case. I heard afterwards that Mr. Lloyd had been adjudged, to provide two sureties for his good behaviour, during one year, each in a penalty of one thousand dollars, and since he was not able to find these securities immediately, to be remanded to prison.

On the same day, Mr. Bowdoin left us, and embarked on board the steam-boat George Washington, bound to Louisville: afterwards to return to New York. I accompanied him on board of the boat, and had an opportunity of observing her most excellent accommodations. The part devoted to lodging passengers, is built like a house in a boat. The lower deck, or deck on which the engine is placed, is occupied by what are called deck-passengers, those who pay a lower price,—there are cot frames suspended for them, but if there should be too many, the last comers must of course sleep on the deck. Above this, is the principal cabin, the passage in which to Louisville costs fifty dollars. Here is a handsome saloon lighted from above, in the centre and on each side are enclosed state-rooms, each with two births, one over the other. Behind this is the ladies cabin, which can be so joined to it by the opening of two folding doors, that both apartments may be thrown into one at pleasure. Around this principal deck, runs a broad and lofty gallery, for the convenience of travellers. Above the cabin, is the deck also covered with a roof, where cotton, other articles, and deck-passengers find accommodation. For such as smoke tobacco, there is a separate apartment provided, in which they enjoy this acquired habit, without incommoding the other passengers, or the ladies thereby. For the use of travellers, there is likewise a library provided on board. The elevated position of the cabin is very agreeable, because one is not annoyed by the engine; moreover in case a boiler should burst, he is exposed to less danger, as the explosion can only direct a fatal force along the lower deck. There were a pretty large number of passengers on board; the vessel sailed about half after four o’clock, P. M. and presented a majestic appearance in her progress.

On the 19th of March, at nine o’clock, I went with Mr. Huygens, and a Mr. Authur Andry, to his brother Michael Andry’s habitation, about eleven miles distant from the city below, situated on the right bank of the Mississippi. The road carried us over the field of battle, and past the habitation of General Villaret: about two miles farther on, we stopped at the habitation of Jumonville, left the carriage and embarked in one of Mr. Andry’s ferry-boats, sent over for us, manned by seven negroes, and crossed the river. There was much drift wood collected on the left bank, through which we worked our way with difficulty. Then we had also both wind and current against us, and had to keep guard against the floating trunks of trees. We spent three quarters of an hour in this passage. We landed at a large field of clover, belonging to Mr. Andry, and through the garden reached his large and handsome mansion-house, two stories high, with a piazza and very broad gallery, which is defended from the heat of the sun by large curtains extended from pillar to pillar. Here Mr. Andry received us.

Not long after our arrival, we went to the sugar-mills, behind the mansion-house, near the negro-quarter. The mill, in which the cylinders lie horizontally, is set in motion by a steam-engine of twelve horse-power, made in Liverpool by Faucett. The juice from the cane flows into the boiling-house, in which there are ten kettles. Mr. Andry directs himself all the operations, and while the mill is at work resides in a small room not far from the engine. He has the reputation of being very severe to his negroes. Whether this imputation be just or not, I could not decide, but twelve years ago an insurrection of the slaves broke out at his habitation, in which one of his brothers was murdered, and his father received three severe wounds with an axe. The garden here was not well kept. Scientific gardeners are very difficult to be procured here. Some years before two ships arrived with German emigrants, who were sold to defray the price of their passage. There were several gardeners among them. These men very soon extricated themselves from their dependent situation, and part of them established themselves; but the rest fell a sacrifice to the noxious climate. As the term of their service was limited to a few years, their masters did not give themselves much trouble to reclaim the runaways. Mr. Andry’s garden was surrounded by a thick hedge of orange trees, and contained many magnolias, orange trees, myrtles, jasmines, &c. We returned to the left bank about eleven o’clock at night, and our carriage conveyed us through the beautiful, mild moonlight, back to New Orleans in an hour.

In the American theatre, “Der Freischutz” was presented under the title of the “Black Huntsman of Bohemia.” This drama, so universally known and admired, and which has followed me even in America like an evil genius, (since detached pieces of it were sung and played in almost all companies,) I had never yet witnessed. Determined not to remain longer in the rear of the age, I therefore went to the theatre. The orchestra was very weak and badly filled, hardly any of the performers could sing; I was told that the handsomest pieces of music are either abridged or entirely omitted. The decorations, nevertheless, were tolerably good, I found the boxes and galleries thronged. In the pit there were but few spectators, and these consisted of sailors and countrymen from Kentucky, who made themselves quite at ease on the benches, and cracked nuts during the finest pieces of music; a custom I have noticed in all English theatres, and from which my tobacco-chewing neighbours in the boxes did not refrain. The theatre is newly erected, and is arranged not untastefully. It contains, besides the pit and parquet, three rows of galleries as the French theatre; the boxes are only divided by low balustrades, so that you look out as if from a balcony; the second gallery is destined for the reception of coloured spectators, among whom I saw not a single female, and in the upper gallery the mob and women of the town sit. The saloon is lit with gas, and has a very tasteful girandole. I remained but for a short time.

One witnesses almost daily examples of the degrading treatment which the poor negroes experience. I should say nothing of it, but one particular scene, which roused my indignation in the highest manner, on the 22d of March, I cannot suffer to pass in silence. There was a young Virginian female slave in our boarding-house, employed as a chamber maid, a cleanly, attentive, quiet, and very regular individual. A Frenchman residing in the house, called, in the morning early, for water to wash. As the water was not instantly brought to him, he went down the steps, and encountered this poor girl, who just then had some other occupation in hand. He struck her immediately with the fist, in the face, so that the blood ran from her forehead. The poor creature, roused by this unmerited abuse, put herself on her defence, and caught the Frenchman by the throat. He screamed for help, but no one would interfere. The fellow then ran to his room, gathered his things together, and designed to leave the house. But when our landlady, Madam Herries, was informed of this, in order to satisfy the wretch, she disgraced herself by having twenty-six lashes inflicted upon the poor girl with a cow-hide, and refined upon her cruelty so much, that she forced the sweetheart of the girl, a young negro slave, who waited in the house, to count off the lashes upon her.[II.10]

The river was progressively on the rise: the level of the water already higher than the land. It still brought down great quantities of drift timber with it. It was said, that about three days before, an uncommonly long and thick rattlesnake had been caught upon a tree that had been fished out. It was killed by a stroke of an axe, and had eighteen rattles on its tail. From this it was concluded that extraordinary inundations had taken place in the upper countries.

In order to pay my farewell visit to Mr. and Madam Andry, I crossed the Mississippi river in a little boat, and it occupied me full three-quarters of an hour to gain the right bank. It required a quarter of an hour alone to pass through the drift wood, which had collected on the shore. We were compelled, nevertheless, to direct our course parallel with the bank, for if we had attained the main current, it would have swept us down with great force. In addition to this, we experienced a real equinoctial tempest, so that the passage was far from being comfortable. I hired a horse upon the opposite bank, and rode in less than an hour to Mr. Andry’s habitation, ten miles distance. The horses here are trained to a small gallop or canter, which is upon the whole not fatiguing, and carries you speedily. The storm had driven off in a thunder-squall, I felt but the beginning of it, and reached the habitation just at the right time. I galloped back again about five o’clock in the evening, under a beautiful clear sky. The road ran partly on the levée, partly along side of it. The land is chiefly cane-fields. I came past three considerable sugar plantations, from which canals were made in the cypress woods behind the fields, and thence to the Lake Barataria. These canals are intended principally for the carriage of wood. The young sprouts of the sugar cane made their appearance above ground, and the negroes were employed in weeding it. The passage over the river was shorter this evening than in the morning, it lasted an half hour.

Dr. Herman showed me, at my farewell visit to him, besides his library, the claws and head of an alligator, which he had shot on the lake Barataria. The teeth of this reptile are indeed very long, but they do not appear to be fixed firmly in, but are hollow, and seem as if the animal changed them periodically; for in the cavities of several teeth, which had appeared to leave no roots, you see young teeth pushing forth. Below the under jaw, the alligator has two little glands, which have a strong odour of musk. The Doctor has dried these glands, and hung them up in that state for several years, yet still they impart a strong musky smell. The alligator perhaps may avail himself of this substance to benumb the fish which come within his reach, and then swallow them.[II.11]

Bishop Dubourg, whom I have often visited during my residence in this place, received me one day in his library, which contains besides theological works, many books of science and belles lettres. I remarked a perfect set of the French Encyclopédie, and complimented the bishop upon it, and expressed my surprise that he should have been able to purchase this work so complete in this country. The worthy man related with a smile how he had acquired it. As he was travelling through Flanders in 1816 and 1817, in company with the Bishop Prince de Broglio, he formed an acquaintance with a gentleman and his daughter, well known for their bigotry. The latter, a great admirer of books, told him confidingly, that she experienced great scruples on account of keeping in her library the Encyclopédie, in which so many wicked things were contained in opposition to the church. She inquired of him whether she had not better throw this shocking book into the fire? He himself being a great book fancier, and having observed that the work was complete, forbid this pious proceeding, and told her that if she would commit it to his custody, he would provide against its proving prejudicial. In this manner he saved this expensive work from destruction, and thereby enriched his own library.

[CHAPTER XX.]

Travels up the Mississippi from New Orleans to St. Louis, and to St. Charles, on the Missouri.

After a stay of nine weeks, I at length left New Orleans, on the 26th of March, with the most grateful feelings towards its inhabitants, who had received me in a friendly and affectionate manner, and had made this winter so extremely agreeable to me. Never shall I forget what the families of Messrs. Grymes, Urquhart and Andry, did for my benefit, and with what cordiality and true hospitality they acted towards me. The Baron de Marigny has, however, merited the most from my hands, and since he has it in prospect to leave America, and settle himself in Europe, I trust yet once more to have it in my power to exhibit my gratitude to him otherwise than by words. The real creoles are, upon the whole, a warm-hearted generation, and the people with whom I was least pleased here, were the Americans, who are mostly brought only by the desire of accumulating wealth. The Germans in Louisiana, unhappily rank behind even the Irish. They are mostly a lazy race, not distinguished for their morality, and very different from their countrymen in Pennsylvania, who, on account of their moral and industrious characters, are universally respected, and are worthy of this high regard.

Since my landing in Boston, on the 26th July, to my reaching New Orleans, I had travelled the distance of four thousand two hundred and seventy-five English miles. I entered now upon another great journey. I designed to go from here to St. Louis, thence through the states of Illinois, Indiana and Ohio to Pittsburgh, thence through Pennsylvania by Philadelphia to New York. Here I proposed, with God’s help, to embark for Liverpool, in the month of June.

About ten o’clock in the morning, I repaired from the Levée on board the steam-boat Phoenix, bound for St. Louis, and immediately left the shore. Eight steam-boats ascended the river on the same day. Ours was the finest of this number. She was not large and had proportionately a too powerful and dangerous high pressure engine. This communicated to the vessel such a violent shock, that it was hardly possible to write. Mr. Huygens was still my travelling companion; and I found to my great satisfaction, a new and very welcome one in M. Hottinguer, the son of a banker in Paris, whom I had known in New York, and who was now desirous of viewing the western states on his return to Europe. The remaining passengers, only three in number, were inhabitants of St. Genevieve, not far from St. Louis, in the state of Missouri. The day was very beautiful; the city, as well as the extensive suburb of St. Marie, afforded a very picturesque view. What a pity that the shores are so very low. It is hard to determine where the suburb St. Marie ends, the houses gradually stand farther apart, until they are confounded with the sugar plantations, of which we observed a good many on both banks of the river, and some ornamented with very convenient dwelling houses. The banks are highly cultivated, behind the fields, however, the cypress woods are seen to commence. Towards the afternoon, something broke in the engine, and we had to lie by for repairs, about three hours. We heard music on the plantations, as the negroes were allowed to amuse themselves on this first day of the Easter holy-days. So much timber drove down the stream, that our engine was frequently stopped, to prevent the buckets of the wheels from being injured by floating trunks of trees.

Our accommodations consisted of a cabin with sixteen births; behind this were two ladies cabins, of which, as there were no ladies on board, we took possession, so that we might be located at the greatest possible distance from the engine. We met three steam-boats, and several keel and flat boats, which were laden with cotton, meal in barrels, bacon, hams, birds, &c.

We passed the whole night without receiving any damage, although we suffered some heavy blows from floating trunks of trees. The next day the dwellings were more scattered, all of them, as well as the sugar-cane fields about them, appeared in good condition. The banks on both sides we found mostly covered with wood; the cypress had ceased, and green-leaved trees, such as ash and poplar took their place. At first the shore was very low, and we could observe from the marks on the trees left by the water, that at a high stage of it the surrounding country must be overflowed. Towards midday we passed the small town of Baton Rouge, which lies upon a height, and may contain about twelve hundred inhabitants. It was the first town we had noticed. In passing, I remarked upon the eminence two brick barracks, two stories high, and good looking, which are inhabited during the summer by the garrison of New Orleans, on account of their healthy situation. Baton Rouge is one hundred and thirty-one miles distant from New Orleans, and owes its name to an ancient Indian trunk of a tree, which was so denominated by the first French settlers. We did not stop here, but made our first halt after sunset, at Bayou Sara, one hundred and sixty-three miles from New Orleans, for an hour, to take in wood for the engine. Above Baton Rouge the banks were steep, especially the left. Such solitary elevations are termed here bluffs. The islands in the Mississippi are numbered as they occur from the junction of the Ohio down. The last is No. 97, we came this day up above No. 94, and found all these intermediate islands low and covered with wood. Towards the rising of the sun, we had passed by at the mouth of the Bayou la Fourche, the little town of Donaldsonville, where as it is said, the seat of government of Louisiana will be established.[II.12] We saw three large alligators lying on the shore sunning themselves, the largest must have been from six to eight feet long. The weather was fine the whole day.

We did not lie by again in the evening, but went on through the night, and still received several blows from the drift wood.

The next morning produced nothing novel; some tortoises only passed us, sailing on pieces of wood. The river made many and considerable windings. The banks are every where woody, and for the most part so low, that from the water-marks on the trees, they must be inundated at high freshes. There were several high bluffs on the left bank, of which those called Loftus Heights, appear to be the most remarkable. There is a small settlement there called Fort Adams, from a fort that formerly stood here. Scattered, but considerable plantations, are situated on the shores. The sugar plantations have ceased, and the cotton fields have taken their place. We stopped at one of these plantations to take in wood; I embraced this opportunity to land, and look round about me in the neighbourhood of the plantation. The soil appeared to be of a dark colour, and very productive. The trees were chiefly of ash and poplar, of which one was sixteen feet in circumference. Upon all the trees, wild vines branched aloft, partly from thick trunks; also many locust trees grew about here. In the garden of the plantation, there stood a large bush of the champagne rose, as it is called, which appeared very beautiful, as it was in full bloom, and diffused a delicious odour. The raising of bees was carried on at this plantation. The vegetation was as far advanced almost, as it is in Germany about June. The right bank of the stream still belongs to Louisiana, the left side however, is in Mississippi. Before we reached Fort Adams, we saw to the left of us the broad Red river, emptying itself into the Mississippi two hundred and thirty-two miles from New Orleans.

I take the liberty of inserting the following account of this river, which is given in the “Western Navigator,” a work which is published with charts of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers: “The Red river falls into the Mississippi a little to the south of the thirty-first degree of north latitude. At its mouth it is about five hundred yards wide, and its general breadth is between two hundred and fifty and three hundred yards. The main branch of this majestic stream rises in the Mexican range of mountains eastward from Santa Fé, in nearly the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude. It flows about one hundred miles in a north-eastern direction, unites itself with another broad branch coming from the north-west, makes then a great circuit towards the south-east, and follows this direction to the Mississippi for the distance of fifteen hundred miles. The country about the lower half of the Red river is pretty well examined, and found equal to the other part of Louisiana in fertility, except about fifty miles from the Mississippi, which district is exposed to annual inundations. The cotton and the tobacco raised about Natchitoches and at the Rapids, are of the best quality, and command the highest prices. Besides many small craft, the trade employs several steam-boats at Natchitoches. The bed and shores of this river consists of clear red sand, mixed with clay and gravel, the same colour is imparted to the water.”

On the morning of the 29th March we reached Natchez, and made a stop of some hours, to repair a leaky boiler. I employed this leisure in writing some letters of thanks to New Orleans. This occupied so much of my time, that I was not able to look about in Natchez. Several of our company did so, and informed me that the city was regularly and well built, and situated upon an eminence on the left bank of the river, removed a short mile back from it. Upon the bank itself, are some few streets of wooden houses, with shops for provisioning and supplying the steam-boats, which mostly make this a station. Back of these streets, rises a sand-hill, upon which the city stands, and a very laborious ascent through deep sand carries one there. Natchez is two hundred and ninety-eight miles distant from New Orleans.

At half past eight o’clock we proceeded: the banks were very low, and bluffs were to be seen only now and then on the left side. Only one solitary plantation on a hill covered with grass appeared well cultivated. It was situated upon a point called Petit gulf, where the river makes a remarkable bend, and is three hundred and forty miles from New Orleans. Besides this, we took notice of several little plantations which are exposed to inundations, and have only wretched log-houses. They are fixed there by poor people, who seek to acquire property in this unhealthy district. We stopt at two of this kind of plantations to take in wood, and I went ashore both times for exercise. At one of these places, the owner had put fire to all the trees that were not hewn down, to make the land arable, and to change the wood into cotton fields. The day passed over in the same way: our travelling party was increased by a woman from St. Louis, who had waited for us with her three children at one of the plantations. She was the wife of a mechanic in St. Louis, who also was engaged in trade, having been to Santa Fé, in Mexico, and from there had brought mules for sale to the state of Alabama. He appeared to have staid away rather too long; his wife, and her three little children, had travelled after him, but not being able to find him, she now returned home.

During the night we passed the little town of Warrenton, on the left bank of the river, three hundred and ninety-eight miles from New Orleans, and afterwards another, on an eminence on the same shore, called Walnut Hills, ten miles farther. About midday, on the 30th of March, we passed the mouth of the Yazoo.

Concerning this river, the Western Navigator makes the following remarks:—“The Yazoo rises in the state of Georgia, takes a south-westerly direction, meanders through a fertile country, and empties itself into the Mississippi, in the latitude of 32° 30´. At its mouth it is about one hundred and thirty yards wide.”

The country was again very monotonous, low banks, partly covered with water, covered thickly with trees, of which the fresh green leaves were very much hidden by the disagreeable Spanish moss: some inconsiderable plantations, where cotton and Indian corn were raised, and the dwelling-houses, miserable little log-cabins, which are built on a sort of grate, on account of the overflowing water. We stopt at one of these places for wood, on the left bank. The labourers discovered among the wood prepared for them, a snake two feet long, green and yellow striped, with a white belly. They considered it poisonous, and killed it; I believe, however, that it was not, for at a dinner in the habitation of Mr. Andry, the sons of our host brought a similar snake, which he had found in the garden, into the chamber, and I permitted it, (to the terror of the ladies,) to creep into my sleeve upon the naked skin. Although the head of this snake had been cut off, yet the body still had life, and wound itself so fast upon my finger with the tail that I could carry it a considerable distance. There are many bears in the woods here, as the wife of the planter assured me, which make great havoc among the hogs of the inhabitants, but do not attack men. The islands in the river are very low, and covered thick with timber.

The weather had become cold, on the 31st of March it became warmer. Nothing new! woody shores, high trees, poplars and sycamores, with large creeping plants, mostly of wild vines, and here and there tall cane. We passed several low islands, which, as well as a distance on both shores, were overflowed, also some solitary, mean, and miserable dwellings. The left bank of the river still is in the limits of the state of Mississippi, the right thus far is in Arkansas Territory; of which Little Rock on the Arkansas river is the principal place, at which many emigrants from the eastern states have settled themselves. About ten o’clock at night we reached the mouth of the Arkansas. Of this, the “Western Navigator” speaks as follows:—This very beautiful river is about three hundred and sixty yards wide, at its mouth it is said to be fifteen hundred miles long. It rises at forty degrees north latitude in the Mexican mountains, between the river La Platte on the one side, and the Rio del Norte on the other. “This river, (as Stoddart writes,) has a rocky bed, and the navigation of it is much impeded by rapids and shoals. The extensive country through which it rolls, is diversified by some mountains, numerous elevations, and fruitful vallies, especially along the water-courses; by scattered groves and copses of wood, and by prairies or natural meadows of great extent, where immense flocks of various kinds of wild animals resort to graze.”

The pilot was obliged to be very careful here, since several dangerous “snags”[II.13] lay in the river where we passed by the remains of the steam-boat Putnam, sunk there. We met the beautiful large steam-boat Caledonia, which, coming from Louisville, went down the river in a most imposing style. The mouth of the Arkansas is distant five hundred and ninety and a half miles from New Orleans, and there are still five hundred and fifty-nine and a half miles remaining to St. Louis, so that the distance from New Orleans to St. Louis amounts to eleven hundred and fifty-eight miles.

On the 1st of April, the shores on both sides, as well as most of the islands, continued still as low and woody as those we had noticed during the preceding days. The ugly long moss, however ceased to deform the trees. Upon the right shore, was situated a little new settlement, Helena, which, from the appearance of its buildings, must be in a tolerably thriving condition. Towards evening, we stopped to wood on the right bank, at a small settlement, called Big Prairie. It was an open place, surrounded by forests, in which stood some very handsome live-oaks. As it became dark, we saw in the woods a great number of fire flies, swarming about, which for a moment led us to think that there was a smithy, or a high furnace in the forest, out of which the sparks were flying. The navigation during the night was very dangerous on account of the number of snags: we received some powerful blows, and a branch, to which we approached too near in the dark, forced its way into one of the cabins, and made a considerable breach. Luckily no one at the time was sleeping there.

Upon the following day we still contemplated no object but low and inundated shores. The human dwellings, the most miserable that could be conceived, were placed along in a scattered manner. As we took in wood towards evening, we were obliged to fasten to the wood-pile, as the whole plantation was under water. The lights on the left shore, which may rise about forty feet, are called the Chickesa Bluffs, of which there are reckoned four in a stretch of about sixty miles.

Before we reached the fourth Chickesa Bluff, we passed a large island, called President’s Island. The river changes its course almost every year, and constantly washes the sand-banks away, while it makes others, so that the chart of the stream made a few years back, is not to be depended upon as a guide. The passage in which we sailed along, was at times rather narrow on account of the island, when the river was at least an English mile broad. Upon the fourth Chickesa Bluff stood the quondam Fort Pickering, consisting of a stockade, as were the forts, as they were called in the Creek nation. The two block houses of this fort are still visible, of which a plantation house has been made. A short mile above the fort, stands a group of rather miserable houses: it is the town of Memphis. It is seven hundred and sixty-three miles from New Orleans, and three hundred and eighty-seven from St. Louis.

Above this town of great name, the Wolf river discharges itself into the Mississippi. The state of Mississippi has its boundary here, and the state of Tennessee commences. It is reported, that Miss Wright, of whom notice has been taken before, has settled herself near Memphis, bought several negroes, and located a plantation. During her travels in the northern states, she expressed so great a disgust towards slavery, that she could not be persuaded to cross the Potomac, to go into Virginia. And now, she has even purchased negroes! It is said, however, that she has acted thus from a philanthropical designs, to follow a proposed plan of setting the negroes free, and giving them their liberty by degrees. I have already given my sentiments at Boston, concerning Miss Wright. All that I have since heard respecting her, confirms the unfavourable judgment which I then communicated. A respectable person, who had become acquainted with her in Philadelphia, said, that she stretched herself on a sofa, spoke little, and gave herself little or no trouble about any one, now and then breaking out in detached sentences, such as this, for example; I believe that bears are of more value than men. At Memphis, she will, I have no doubt, enjoy many opportunities of confirming herself in practical experience of the truth of this maxim. In the evening, we were amused again with the great numbers of fire flies, which filled the woods.

On the 3rd of April, we were embarrassed by our fire wood giving out. The banks were overflowed, and there was no regular landing place to be obtained. At the place called the new cut-off, we had a very powerful current against us, which we overcame with great trouble and waste of time. The wood was so far gone, that old barrels were broke up, and a mast and several boards were obliged to be sawed for a supply. This new cut had formed itself in February 1822, and saves the vessels a circuit of thirteen miles. It may be observed on the chart, what a large bend the Mississippi makes here. By degrees it washed the small isthmus of land, which intervened between the bends, and formed itself a new bed directly through. This neck of land, through which this new cut passes, is hardly half a mile wide. It is but a short time since the steam-boats first ventured to take this short route: for the remains of the trees washed away are still visible, and this admonishes the navigator to be on his guard.

After we had passed this strait, which is distant eight hundred and sixty-nine miles from New Orleans, we stopped on the right bank, to provide ourselves with wood. We embraced this opportunity to go ashore for a walk, and into the woods. A young man of our vessel, killed a very handsome snake in the forest. It was one and a half foot long, whitish, with coal-black, edged spots on the back, the belly white with black stripes.[II.14] Farther on, a black eagle with white head and tail was shot. We saw a similar one in the afternoon fly long before our boat, he had found a snake which he held in his talons. We met with several plovers also. After sunset, we stopt at the right bank for the second time, to obtain more wood for the night. This place was called Point Pleasant, and there were about it several small plantations; one of which served as a trade-deposit with the Indians. The Indians bring deer, buck, muskrat and other skins, and barter them for arms, ammunition, woollen blankets, stamped calicoes, &c. one of our travelling companions, Mr. Vallais employed himself in this trade. We accompanied him to the depôt, whence he brought a whole cart-load of pressed skins to the boat, to take up with him.

On the right hand shore the Arkansas territory ceases, and the new state of Missouri begins. This was first received into the Union two years since, and with truly great difficulty, and after long debate; as congress was at issue whether the state should be suffered to permit slavery within its limits or not. The state at length, however, obtained that privilege.

Six miles below Point Pleasant, the little town of New Madrid lies upon the right bank, nine hundred and twelve miles from New Orleans. We past by it in the night, to my great regret; for I should have liked to have seen the remains of the violent earthquake, which prevailed here in the years 1811 and 1812. There are great sink-holes to be seen here yet, in which trees are buried. The soil upon which the town itself stood, has sunk many feet, and the place has suffered very much. New Madrid was a Spanish settlement, and so long as the whole right bank of the Mississippi, that is, from 1763 to 1803, belonged to the Spaniards, under the name of Louisiana, there was a Spanish military post there. On the left bank of the river this evening, we left the jurisdiction of Tennessee, and entered that of Kentucky.

On the 4th of April, it was exactly one year, since I left the city of Ghent, and my family. The time has passed over rapidly with me, I have seen many remarkable things, my mind has been kept on a constant stretch; nevertheless, that which passed more than a year ago is as present, as if performed but a few days since. If the great Architect of the universe shall conduct me in health home to those I love, which I have prayed for, then shall the 4th of April be a festival-day in my family as long as I live.

Both shores of the river, appeared in the forenoon just as they appeared during the last days. Only we remarked two elevations on the left bank, of which one was called Chalk Bank, the other Iron Bank. About one o’clock in the afternoon we found ourselves opposite the mouth of the Ohio river. The river is here very broad, and both streams with their low banks, grown thick with wood, puts one in mind of the Mecklenburg lakes.

The Western Navigator says, in a note concerning the Ohio: “The Ohio arises from the junction of the Alleghany with the Monongahela at Pittsburgh, the first is about three hundred and seventy, the latter near five hundred yards broad at their mouths. After a west-south-westerly course of nine hundred and fifty-two miles the Ohio empties itself into the Mississippi about in the degree of north latitude thirty-seven. It changes its breadth from four hundred to fourteen hundred yards. At Cincinnati it is eight hundred and forty-seven yards wide, which may be considered its medium. Its course is gentle, not broken by falls or rapids, except at Louisville. It is inferior to few streams in the convenience of communication from one part to the other, especially if the operation of canaling the falls, and erecting of locks, which has long been contemplated, be carried through with success. The height of the falls is estimated at twenty-two and a half feet, the length of the descent two miles. The greatest extremes of falling in the height of the river, are between Pittsburgh and the Mississippi; they lessen as the river is descended, and the medium height is from twenty-five to thirty feet. At the lowest state of water, the river is fordable in many places above the falls. ”

The mouth of the Ohio is nine hundred and seventy-seven miles from New Orleans, and one hundred and seventy-three from St. Louis. Two steam-boats, the Friendship and Philadelphia, which had remained near us all the way from New Orleans, here left us, and ascended the Ohio. The Mississippi continues still very broad above the Ohio, and contains many islands. From the mouth of the Ohio, the left shore of the river belongs to the state of Illinois, the right, as already observed, to the state of Missouri. The banks of the Mississippi begin to be something higher, and at times still more rocky. We stopt at a couple of solitary houses on the right bank for wood. During this halt I went into the wood lying back, to walk, and remarked several sycamores of an uncommon height and stoutness; I believe I can affirm that one of them was twenty feet in circumference. We observed from the cooler air, and the less precocious vegetation, that we were again in a more northern climate. A few of the trees were in leaf, others were blossoming, which in New Orleans, occurred six weeks ago. Near the dwellings were large orchards, in which the apple-tree was in blossom. On the bank grew arbres de judée, whose blossoms resemble those of the peach-tree, and near them blossoming white-thorns.

The water in the Ohio had risen very much for some days, and poured with force into the Mississippi; this circumstance assisted our progress, since above the junction we had a weaker stream to contend with. At ten o’clock at night we reached a little town on the right bank, Gape Girardeau, where Mr. Vallais had some goods to land. This place is situated on a high bank, and appears to be thriving and well built, in a fruitful and tolerably populous district. On account of the numerous snags under water and the sawyers, the navigation during the night would have been dangerous, we therefore spent the night at Cape Girardeau. There are here several examples of unlucky steam-boats. The place is one hundred and thirty-two miles from St. Louis.

On the 5th of April we were set in motion before daybreak, and stopped towards morning at a group of five wooden houses, called the town of Bainbridge, one hundred and twenty-two miles from St. Louis, on the right bank. Again goods were landed, and wood taken in. In the outset of our day’s trip, the shores became higher. Upon the right side we saw sandstone rock, probably forty feet high; they were partly worn with water, and had singular forms. One of these rocks, which stands alone, is called the Devil’s tea-table. Farther the river is compressed in its course between two ledges of rock, of which one is called the Devil’s bake-oven, where several steam-boats have gone down. The current is here very strong. On the right bank rises a solitary rock named the Tower, resembling very much an old fortress. It must be about one hundred feet in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet high. The river became by degrees narrower. The vegetation continued still more backward. Towards evening, we encountered a very heavy storm, that lasted, with severe thunder, rain and hail, for a couple of hours. On this account we could advance no farther without danger, and remained during the night on the right bank near the Saline River’s mouth, sixty-nine miles and a half distant from St. Louis. On this river considerable and profitable salt works are established.

On the sixth of April, we moved again before daybreak. The storm of yesterday had cooled the air very perceptibly. After we had advanced five miles farther, we stopt on the left bank. An establishment was placed there, Simonton’s Warehouse, where the goods intended for Kaskaskia were landed, which is a town in the state of Illinois, lying on the river Ouwa or Kaskaskia, two miles from the warehouse: we soon got under way again. The country on the right bank was very well cultivated. On a small eminence we beheld the little town of St. Genevieve. This place is one mile distant from the river, on a little stream called Gabane creek. Mr. Vallais, and another of our fellow travellers, Mr. Rozier, a native of Nantes, and established as a merchant in St. Genevieve, landed their goods purchased in New Orleans here, and took leave of us.

We stopped several hours. The river takes a new direction against the right bank, wears it out in hollows, and often tears away whole fields, by which the left bank profits. We accompanied our fellow voyagers to the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, of both complexions. The road ran between fields of Indian corn, and then over a bridge on Gabane creek. The place has regular streets, but has rather a poor appearance. I remarked only three substantial houses: one of them stands on an open square, and is the court-house. Not far from this is the prison, a box framed of strong timbers. Upon the eminence on which the place slopes down, stands a massive edifice, which indeed had a roof upon it, but was without doors or windows, and threatened to fall in. It was destined for an academy, but for want of funds the plan was not completed. The place receives great advantage from the neighbouring lead mines. The navigation near St. Genevieve is extremely dangerous, from the snags lying under the water. Two steam-boats have been sunk here, the Franklin and the Cincinnati. The accident of the last took place when Prince Paul of Wirtemburg was on board. I noticed here several pieces of a very brittle sandstone, found in the vicinity of St. Genevieve, and sent as an article of trade to Pittsburgh, where it is used in the manufacture of glass.

Before we proceeded on our voyage, we received the visit of a Shawnee Indian on board, a well looking man of about thirty years of age, who spoke tolerably good English. He travelled on horse-back with his gun, hunted on the way, and sold his venison. His dress was very similar to that of the Creek Indians. Between twelve and one o’clock, we were again under way. The right bank continued rocky, and contained below very singular shapes and excavations, which reminded me of the rocks on the Inn, and the one called Buckfarth Castle.

About ten miles above St. Genevieve an island lies on the left shore, called Fort Chartres, where at the time of the first French establishment, a fort of this name was standing. It was nevertheless partly torn away by the current, and at present, has vanished entirely. We passed several islands, of which three are called the Plattan islands. In the woods on these we saw many birds with parti-coloured feathers, the largest among them were cormorants. About 5 o’clock in the evening, we reached Herculaneum, a little town on the right shore. The river Joachim, which has been turned into Owashing creek, which here flows into the Mississippi, divides the place into two parts. Herculaneum is thirty miles from St. Louis, is very small, but contains several decent houses, and supports itself by the lead establishments, furnished by the mines in the neighbourhood, and by two shot factories. The rocks, which form the right bank of the river, open themselves here to let the Owashing pass through, which flows in a narrow, truly picturesque valley, which again recalled the Ilmthal to my mind. Looking from the river, Herculaneum is situated between two high crags of rock, in the back ground woody heights crowned with rocks, and appears very handsome. On each summit of the rocks, stands what is called a shot tower. The material of the rock here is wacke, in which there are many flints. We stopt here to take in wood.

The 7th of April, we continued our voyage about five o’clock, and reached St. Louis about eleven o’clock forenoon. Thus had we accomplished a distance of 1150 miles in less than thirteen days against the current, which before the introduction of the steam-boat required at least three months, a new testimony of the importance of this noble discovery, so honourable to the human intellect.

We enquired in several houses for accommodation, but found the most of them too bad; and remained at length in the Missouri Hotel, a tolerably moderate kind of an inn, where we were obliged to house ourselves very narrowly.

St. Louis has existed since the year 1763, and was settled by French and Canadians. In that year when Canada with the left bank of the Illinois and Mississippi were ceded to England, these people were not willing to be English subjects, and withdrew to the right bank of the Mississippi, which then was under the dominion of France, but soon after was given up to Spain. The emigrants built St. Louis and St. Charles on the Missouri, as well as several other little places: they lived a long time cut off from the civilized world, and surrounded by Indians. They effected but little in the cultivation of the soil, had almost no agriculture, and supported themselves by hunting. They would at length have become savages, had not this territory, with Louisiana, in the year 1803, came into the possession of the United States. Since that time communication and roads have been opened between the United States and St. Louis; many Americans and foreigners removed here, and brought their property and their industry with them: and by the introduction of the use of steam-boats, a new and easy intercourse was opened with the shores of the Ohio, and with New Orleans, that important depôt of the western states. A glance at the map of the United States shows what an interesting place St. Louis is destined to become, when the white population has spread itself more westwardly from the Mississippi, and up along the Missouri river. Perhaps it may yet become the capital of a great nation.

St. Louis lies upon a rather high rocky foundation on the right bank of the Mississippi, and stretches itself out, nearly a mile in length, in the direction of the river. The most of the houses have a garden towards the water, the earth is supported by walls, so that the gardens form so many terraces. The city contains about four thousand inhabitants. It consists of one long main street, running parallel with the river, from which several side streets run to the heights behind the city. Here single houses point out the space, where another street, parallel with the main street can one day be built. The generality of the houses are new, built of brick two stories high; some are of rough stone, and others of wood and clay in the Spanish taste, resembling the old houses in New Orleans. Round the city, along the heights, formerly ran a wall, but it is now taken away. At the corners stood massive round guard-towers, the walls of which one still can see.

In a northern direction from the city, are seven artificial hillocks, in two rows, which form a parallelogram. They belong to the much talked of Indian mounds and fortifications, of which numbers are found on the shores of the Ohio and Mississippi, and which are dispersed over these regions from Lake Erie to New Mexico. There exists neither documents nor traditions concerning the erection of these works, or of the tribe of people who erected them. In some, a great quantity of human bones have been discovered, in others, on the contrary, nothing. This double row near St. Louis has not yet been examined.

Soon after our arrival, we made some visits to deliver the introductory letters given me by Bishop Dubourg. We called first upon General Clark, governor of the state of Missouri. The general was absent in Washington. We were, however, received in a very friendly manner by his wife and daughters. Governor Clark is moreover the well-known fellow traveller of the late Governor Lewis, in the expedition to the mouth of Columbia river, on the Pacific ocean, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806. We afterwards went to visit Mr. Choteau, who was one of the founders of St. Louis, who was not at home.

As we were so near the Missouri, we were unwilling to leave this part of the country, without at least looking at that interesting river; for St. Charles, a little town on the left bank of the Missouri, which empties into the Mississippi some twenty miles above St. Louis, is but twenty miles distant from this city. Not to lose any time, we determined to go there this very day. We therefore hired a little two-horse carriage, and with it, I and Mr. Hottinguer, and Mr. Huygens, began our journey in the afternoon. At first, all went right. The road ran through an uneven prairie, upon which many cattle pastured. After a ride of eight miles, we came into a forest, which lasted all the way to the Missouri. The country was pretty hilly, the forest consisted of green-leaved timber, oaks, and various nut-bearing trees, of Canadian poplars, and much sumach. On most of the trees, climbing plants mounted over them, wild vines, and ivy. There was hardly any sign of the spring here yet: the vegetation was still as backward as at that period of the year in Flanders. This made no very friendly impression upon us, who had just arrived from New Orleans, where it had long been summer. In the woods we found several solitary inclosures, made by worm-fences. Wheat, oats, and Indian corn were raised here. The cattle, and the numerous swine bivouacked in the woods, and were obliged to take care of themselves. There are a number of emigrants from the eastern states, also Germans, established here in Missouri, who have purchased the land from government for one dollar and a half per acre, and made it arable. Most of them, however, repent of this proceeding; on account of the small population of this state, and the want of a market, they cannot dispose of their produce. We also passed a little village “the station,” and afterwards had nearly been lost in the forest, as our coachman knew nothing of the road. The road was marshy and very bad; and to complete our misfortune the night shut in. One of our companions betook himself to his knowledge of astronomy, and wished to steer us by the pole star. I trusted more to my judgment of localities, and opposed all learned demonstrations. My other companion voted with me, and therefore we proceeded by my guidance, and I had the glory of finding the true road, for we arrived at half-past ten o’clock at night, on the right bank of the Missouri, opposite St. Charles, at Chauvin’s ferry.

The way had latterly become so bad, that to prevent accidents, we proceeded on foot. It was too late to cross the river to St. Charles; we therefore had a frugal supper prepared for us at the ferry-house, and passed the night in a little garret-room. The country in the neighbourhood of the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, cannot in any manner be healthy; in the summer bilious fevers prevail, and in the winter, what they call the influenza, which has shown itself in most of the northern states. It consists of a very severe cough, joined with rheumatic symptoms. If the disease be neglected, death may be the consequence. To my no small alarm and dissatisfaction, one of our chamber associates was very much affected with this influenza, and another stranger, who slept in the next apartment, was visited by this malady likewise; so that we were fated to hear a most annoying cough duett.

On the next morning we crossed early to the left bank of the Missouri, where St. Charles was situated, in a small canoe. The river is here three-quarters of a mile broad, has excessively thick and muddy water, and a very powerful current. The right bank is rather level, yet so high that it experiences no inundation, while the left is pretty hilly. St. Charles, which has the same origin with St. Louis, lies at the foot of a hill; it consists of a single street running parallel with the river, and is mostly built of brick. These houses are for the greater part built by the Americans who have come here in later times, and are inhabited by them as the most respectable portion of the inhabitants. The Canadian, (or as they are called here, from their original parentage and their language, the French,) are less industrious than the Americans, and occupy themselves of preference in hunting; they live in smaller, older houses, at the commencement and termination of the street. The place may contain one thousand inhabitants, who nearly all belong to the Catholic faith, and have a small wooden church. I spoke to the present pastor, Verhegghen, a native of Ghent, a young man, who, with the Abbé Maenhout in Pensacola, and many other young students from Flanders, accompanied Bishop Dubourg on his return from Europe. Abbé Verhegghen told me, that eight Flanders clergymen were appointed either as pastors through the state, or placed in the seminary five miles from St. Genevieve.

St. Charles has no remarkable exterior, and the streets are not paved. We had it in contemplation to go to an eminence lying below the town, “les Mamelles,” where it was said there was a view of the Missouri and Mississippi both at once. The road carried us through a wood, which begins below St. Charles. We had no guide, lost our way, and came at last to a couple of lonely cabins. These cabins were inhabited by Canadians, who took me for a Catholic pastor. We learned to our dismay, that far from the “Mamelles,” we had six miles between us and St. Charles. In this manner we took a sentimental walk of twelve miles for nothing. Luckily for us we had fine weather. We had constantly remained in the vicinity of the river, the return way took us somewhat differently, and we came to a great marshy meadow, from which we could distinguish the heights on the left bank of the Mississippi. The forest is rather thick, with the same trees before-mentioned, and with large and very thick sycamores. Not a sign of herbage was to be seen. In the forest, however, there were beautiful birds, a pair were of a dazzling sky-blue, and several paroquets, similar to those I had seen on the river Alabama. For snakes, and especially for rattlesnakes, which are found in great numbers here in summer, it was now too cold.

Exceeding fatigued with our useless promenade, we crossed the Missouri immediately from St. Charles to Chauvin’s ferry, where we had slept. We took our dinner here, and set out on the road to St. Louis in our little light carriage, about four o’clock. We got over the worst part of the road by daylight. We were surprised at the great numbers of partridges, upon which we came, and which were so tame, that they would hardly run out of our way: they remained sitting within ten paces of us. As the night overtook us, we reached the better part of the road. We passed a bivouack of an emigrant family, and arrived in St. Louis without accident, in a very cold night about ten o’clock.

The 9th of April found us plunged into the midst of winter. It never ceased snowing and freezing during the whole day. Except a slight fall of it that I had experienced at Harper’s ferry, in the month of November, 1825, this was the first snow that I happened to witness in America. We could not make up our minds to go abroad, but preferred sitting at the fire-side, and entertained ourselves with past happy days. Later, however, we paid Mrs. Clark a visit, and spent the evening at her house.

The steam-boat Mexico, Captain Clark, from the Prairie des Chiens on the upper Mississippi, arrived this day, in the afternoon, at St. Louis, fired a cannon to announce it, and intended to sail the next morning down the Mississippi, and up the Ohio to Louisville and Pittsburgh. I determined to embrace this opportunity to arrive in the Ohio, and then visit New Harmony on the Wabash. My design at first was to have gone by land through the state of Illinois, to Vincennes, and from there down the Wabash to New Harmony. From information since obtained, this road would be almost bottomless at this season of the year, several rivers were to be crossed, and those provided with miserable ferries. For these reasons, I declined the journey by land, in which, without such considerations, there was nothing interesting to attract attention.

I had also felt a desire to visit the lead-mines, of which the most important lie at Potosi, sixty miles from St. Louis, which are almost daily increasing in consequence. I declined to join in this excursion, since the journey there would take at least two days, the return as much, and besides the road was described as wretched in the highest degree. I was told, that the lead ore lies almost on the surface, and is so extensive, that it is not worth the trouble to dig for it deep. If therefore a shaft is pushed so deep as to strike water, this shaft is abandoned and another opened. This easy method of working will last until the owner has laboured over every part of his territory, then he will be obliged to have recourse to water-pumps, and steam-engines. On Fever river, on the upper Mississippi, are also very rich lead-works. These, united to the works at Potosi, have delivered, during nine months, eight hundred and eighty-seven thousand two hundred and ninety-eight pounds of lead; the amount of per centage which the United States receive from these works during that time, was a hundred and four thousand one hundred and thirteen pounds. It is supposed, that in the next year the mine-works will produce from three to four million pounds of lead, which must be three hundred and fifty thousand pounds for the share of the United States. It is but a few years since these mines were worked.

On the 10th of April, we paid yet some other visits, before our departure. First, to Major Biddle of the sixth regiment of infantry. He is a brother to Commodore Biddle, and also of the President of the United States Bank, in Philadelphia. His wife, educated in France, does not appear particularly delighted with these out posts of civilization. We then went to see Mrs. Clark, who, through the secretary of her husband, Mr. Alexander, exhibited to us the museum collected by the governor on his travels, and since considerably augmented. Mr. Alexander showed us articles of Indian clothing of different kinds, and various materials,—except the leather, the larger part of these materials were American, or rather entirely European in their origin. A single garment alone, was made by the Cherokees of cotton, which was pulled, spun, wove on a loom, made by an Indian, and even dyed blue by them. Besides, several weapons of different tribes, wooden tomahawks, or battle-axes, in one of them was a sharp piece of iron to strike into the skulls of their prisoners; another made of elks-horn, bows of elks-horn and of wood, spears, quivers with arrows, a spear head of an Indian of the Columbia river, hewed out of flint, a water-proof basket of the same people, in which cooking can be performed, several kinds of tobacco pipes, especially the calumet, or great pipe of peace. The heads of this pipe are cut out of a sort of argillaceous earth, or serpentine; in time of war the spot where this stone is dug out, is regarded as neutral, and hostile parties, who meet each other at that place, cannot engage in any thing inimical against each other. The pipe which the commissioners of the United States use at treaties with the Indians, has a heavy silver head, and a peculiarly handsome ornamented wooden stem. Farther: Mr. Alexander showed us the medals which the Indian chiefs have received at different periods from the Spanish, English and American governments, and the portraits of various chiefs, who have been at St. Louis to conclude treaties with the governor, who is also Indian agent. Among the remarkable things in natural history, we noticed an alligator, eight feet long; a pelican; the horns of a wild goat, shot by the governor in his tour among the rocky mountains; the horns of a mountain-ram, and those of an elk, several bearskins, among others, of the white bear; buffalo, elk, of the skunk, which were sowed together in a robe, skins of martins, ferrets, &c. &c. moreover, several petrifactions of wood, and animal subjects, among others, of elephants teeth, a piece of rock-salt, tolerably white, yet not shooting in crystals, as the English; various crystals; a large piece of rock crystal; very handsome small agates, which are here taken for cornelians, &c. Among the curiosities, the most remarkable were two canoes, the one of animal-hide, the other of tree-bark, a peace-belt, which consists of a white girdle, set with glass beads two hands breadth wide; farther, snow shoes, nets which are drawn over an oval frame, also the rackets, which they use in playing their game of ball, &c. &c.

After the examination of this interesting collection, we paid our visit to Mr. Choteau. This is a venerable old man of eighty years, a native of New Orleans. He told us that at the founding of St. Louis, he felled the first tree. His house resembling in architecture the old government-house in New Orleans, was the first substantial building erected here. The conversation with this aged man, who received us like a patriarch, surrounded by his descendants, was very interesting. He was of opinion that the people from whom the Indian antiquities have come down to us, either by a pestilential disease, or by an all-destroying war, must have been blotted from the earth. He believed that Behring’s Straits were more practicable formerly than at present, at least it must have been Asiatic hordes that came to America. How otherwise, (asked he,) could the elephants, since there have been none ever upon this continent, have reached the American bottom, where their bones are now found? This bottom is a very rich body of land, running south, opposite to St. Louis. Mounds and fortifications are found there, of the kind spoken of before. Here the elephants bones are not scattered about, but found laid in a long row near each other, as if they had been killed in a battle, or at the assault of some fortification. I gave him a description of the opening of a Roman mound, at which I was present with my father, in the year 1813, and he expressed his astonishment at the great similarity between these mounds, and those of the Indian grave-hills. Among the stone war-hatchets in the governor’s museum, there are several resembling the battle-axes which are found in Germany at these mounds.

In our inn there lodged merchants, who prepare caravans, with which they go in a space of from between forty and fifty days, to Santa Fé in New Mexico. The articles which they mostly carry there, consist of cotton fabrics, cloths, iron ware, &c. These goods they pack in four-horse wagons, covered over, in which they sleep at night. There are about one hundred men in such a caravan. From Santa Fé they bring back dollars and mules.

After dinner the worthy old gentleman, Mr. Choteau, surprised us by a visit, and brought his brother, his sons, and a Captain Smith, of the first regiment of infantry, who is here on recruiting duty, with him. He staid long with us and was very talkative. He related, for example, that at the commencement of the settlement of St. Louis, the Indians attacked the town, which was only defended by one hundred and fifty men, and that they were driven off. After this attack, the Spaniards had built the defensive towers, of which the remains stand yet around the city. They resemble the English Martello towers, and like them were of but little value.

[CHAPTER XXI.]

Travels from St. Louis to New Harmony.—Mr. Owen’s System and Experiment.

On the 10th of April at seven o’clock, P. M. we left St. Louis, in the Mexico, a neat boat with a low pressure engine. We went down the stream so rapidly, that we advanced fourteen and fifteen miles per hour. We received an unpleasant shock during the night from a snag. It gave the vessel such a violent blow, that all were roused from sleep, and sprang out of bed: I thought that the boat was going down. Happily we were only scared this time. Towards morning we hastened past Cape Girardeau, and all the places which we had seen a few days before. It was agreeable for us again to come something more southerly, and recognize traces of vegetation. We reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi about twelve o’clock in the day. We then quitted the Mississippi, and steered into the Ohio.

At the period when the French extended their posts from Canada to New Orleans, the Ohio was known to them under the name of “La Belle Riviere;” Mr. Choteau, Senr. used this appellation constantly in speaking of it, while conversing with me. The water of the Ohio is much clearer and purer than that of the Mississippi, which is evidently very foul from the confluence of the Missouri. At the union with the Ohio, this difference in the colour of the streams is striking, when you pass from the turbid waters of the Mississippi into the purer current of the Ohio. They are divided from each other by a perceptible line, disturbed cloudings being visible on each side of this line.

I took a solemn leave of the majestic father of rivers, the Mississippi; but, with God’s permission, not an eternal one.

The banks of the Ohio are at first very low, and exposed to inundations. Upon the right bank, eleven miles above the mouth, lies a small place, consisting of a few wooden houses, called America. It is built upon a bank raised several feet above the highest water-mark. It is only three miles hence across to the Mississippi. A project, therefore has been agitated, and a company formed with a capital of ten thousand dollars, to cut through this narrow piece of land, to unite the rivers sooner, and gain an easier navigation. Since the bank is not exposed to overflow at this point, as I have remarked before, a town may be established here, in process of time, when this design is carried into effect, that will be extremely important and wealthy.

About six miles from the mouth, stand a tavern and warehouses, on the right bank, which is called Trinity. In this vicinity there are several rocks concealed under the water, that must be very dangerous at a low stage of the river. Some miles higher, thirty-seven and a half miles from the mouth, fourteen hundred miles from New Orleans, and three hundred and thirty-four and a half from Louisville, is Fort Massac, situated on an eminence on the right bank. The remains of a stockade, two block-houses, and barracks, are what is left of this fort, which gains its name from the massacre of the French garrison by the Indians. As long as the western military posts of the United States were kept up, an infantry company remained here in garrison. This fort has been abandoned for a long time. Nine miles higher up on the left bank, the Tennessee river flows into the Ohio, upon which the Western Navigator makes the following remarks: “This river is the largest branch of the Ohio, and is navigable for large boats more than six hundred miles. It rises in the north western part of Virginia, and runs through the whole breadth of East Tennessee, in a south-westerly direction. Afterwards it enters at the north-east corner of Alabama, through the breadth of which it runs, then turning in a northern direction, nearly in a direct line with the western boundary of that state, it flows through Tennessee and a part of Kentucky, in which it discharges itself into the Ohio.” The right bank of the river on which we were now sailing, belongs to the state of Illinois, and the left to Kentucky. Both shores are thickly covered with woods. Although our course up the stream did not equal the speed with which we had descended the Mississippi, yet we made handsome progress.

On the second night we went on, in spite of the snags, and without accident. On the third day, 12th of April, we were delighted with the prospect of the beautiful banks of the Ohio, thickly covered with wood. The right shore especially is rocky, and occupied by neat dwellings and little settlements. During the night we had passed the mouth of the Cumberland, an eastern tributary river to the Ohio. This is one of the largest rivers in Kentucky. It rises in the Cumberland mountains, in the vicinity of the heads of Clinch and Kentucky rivers, flows in a westerly direction more than two hundred miles, enters the state of Tennessee, reaching Nashville, after meandering through that state one hundred and twenty miles, in the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude, or thereabouts, flows then one hundred and twenty miles in a north-west course, and discharges itself into the Ohio.

This mouth of Cumberland is eight hundred and ninety-four miles from Pittsburgh, and ten hundred and thirty-five from New Orleans. On the right shore we saw the little town of Golconda, afterwards the Cave in Rock, where a considerable cavern runs into the rock. It reaches one hundred and fifty feet deep under the hill, and was used by a robber in former days for a place of residence, whence he sallied out and plundered the passing flat-boats and smaller craft.

Towards noon we reached Shawnee town, on the right bank, ten hundred and ninety-five miles from New Orleans, and eight hundred and thirty-four from Pittsburgh. The Western Navigator says, “Shawnee town was formerly a village which belonged to the Shawnee Indian nation, and bore its name. It is at present a handsomely situated town, in Gallatin county, state of Illinois. It contains a post-office, a land-office, and a bank, called the Great Bank of Illinois, with a capital of two hundred thousand dollars. Although it is subject to be overflowed, yet it is nevertheless a considerable place, since it is the centre of the emigrants going to Kaskaskias, St. Louis, &c.” It appeared to me safe from inundation, as it lies upon a tolerably elevated bank. The houses, of which many contain stores, are mostly of wood, yet I observed many of brick. It may contain eight hundred inhabitants, mostly white persons. The states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, lying between the Mississippi and Ohio, hold no slaves; a slave coming here from other states is free: and yet these states are only divided by the Mississippi from Missouri, and by the Ohio from Kentucky and Virginia, in which three states, slavery still exists.

Ten miles above Shawnee town we passed the mouth of the Wabash, a western tributary of the Ohio.

The Wabash, a very beautiful river, rises not far from the sources of the Miami of the Lakes, and meanders through one of the most fertile districts of the west. At its mouth, it is about two hundred and fifty yards broad, and is navigable about four hundred miles. The Wabash forms the boundary between the states of Illinois and Indiana, the right bank belongs to the former, the left to the latter state. About evening, the steam-boat landed Mr. Huygens and myself on the right bank at Mount Vernon, a place established about two years ago, whence we proposed to go by land to New Harmony. Mr. Hottinguer left us, as he pursued his voyage in the steam-boat; I parted very reluctantly from this esteemed fellow traveller, who possessed many good qualities, above all others, one seldom found in his countrymen, great modesty.

Mount Vernon lies upon a high bank, one hundred and twenty-six miles from New Orleans, and eight hundred and three from Pittsburgh. It is a favourable situation for trade, laid out on an extensive plan, but has only frame houses, and at most three hundred inhabitants. It is the new capital of Posey county. A prison was finished for the use of the county; a court-house was about to be built. We formed an acquaintance with a physician established here, and a travelling merchant. The roots of the felled trees remained yet in the streets of the town, the woods began close behind the houses; nay, the latest built were encircled by them.

On the following morning, 15th of April, we hired a two-horse wagon, to carry us to the village of New Harmony, which is sixteen miles distant from Mount Vernon, and lies on the left shore of the Wabash. The road passed through a hilly country, thickly grown with green-leaved trees. The way was made very bad by former rains, and the most miry places were mended with logs, forming a grievous causeway;[II.15] over a little stream, called Big creek, we crossed a tolerable wooden bridge. About half way is Springfield, at first made the capital of Posey county, which, however, afterwards was changed to Mount Vernon, as I have mentioned before. In Springfield the county gaol still remains, also a brick court-house, and about ten wooden houses, two of them are taverns. As the road was very bad, and the horses went very slow, I walked at least ten miles, and arrived at New Harmony, before the carriage. As soon as you clear the woods, you have a very handsome view of the place. It lies in a valley, not far from the Wabash. The woody and low banks of this river, were at present, in the neighbourhood of New Harmony, overflowed. From the roots of trees still remaining, it was visible, that this country had been covered with wood but a short time back.

In fact, it is but eleven years since Mr. Rapp with his society, after they had disposed of Harmony in Pennsylvania, moved here, and felled the first tree to found New Harmony in a country inhabited only by wolves, Indians, bears, rattlesnakes, &c. The hills immediately next to the place, are already cleared of timber of the larger kind; they are converted into vineyards, and partly into orchards. Farther off are meadows and fields to the right, and to the left fruit and vegetable gardens, carefully enclosed by palisades. New Harmony itself, has broad unpaved streets, in which good brick houses appear alternately, with framed cabins and log houses: the streets are regular, running at right angles. We took up our quarters in the only tavern there, belonging to the community; it was passable.

Rapp’s society, called from their former residence, the Harmonites, consisted of Wurtemburgers. Their early history is known, and perhaps, when I visit this society from Pittsburgh in their new establishment, “Economy,” I may find an opportunity to say more concerning them. Rapp sold New Harmony in the year 1825, to the Englishman, Robert Owen, and left there with his people on the 5th of May, to go up the Ohio to Economy. Mr. Owen was originally engaged in manufactures, and possessed a large cotton factory at New Lanark, on the Falls of Clyde, ten miles from Glasgow in Scotland, where he had, by the adoption of a new system of education and formation of character, changed a collection of one thousand rude labourers into a community of industrious beings. His system, and his ideas upon the situation of human society, as well as the improvements that are capable of being made, he has divulged in a series of essays, which are collected, and appear in print under the name of a new view of society. They conclude with the project of a constitution for a community formed on his system.

Mr. Owen is an enemy to all sects, the spirit of which has generated so much evil under the imposing name of religion. He allows each person liberty to believe in what he may consider to be good; so that a pure Deism is the peculiar religion of his adherents. On this account he was very obnoxious to the prevailing sects in Great Britain, and accordingly his system could not extend itself there. He was therefore induced to turn his attention to the United States, and particularly to the western part of the Union, where, as he says, there is less hypocrisy of religion prevailing than to the east. He then purchased New Harmony from Mr. Rapp, and commenced his establishment in the month of May last. As he laid the foundation of it entirely on perfect equality and community of property, many enthusiasts in these principles from various parts of the Union joined themselves to him; and also a number of vagabonds and lazy worthless persons, from all parts of the world, that would willingly live well at the public expense, who had drank away the little money, if they brought any at all, at the tavern, and who would not work, but desired to say a great deal. Mr. Owen had gone to England on account of business in the month of July, and during his absence, a complete anarchy had been introduced into the new community. At the end of October he arrived from England at New York on his return, gave lectures there, in Philadelphia, and in Washington, upon his system, made some proselytes in Philadelphia, and came back to New Harmony. He lamented over his people, and brought the situation of anarchy in which they had fallen before their eyes so plainly, with the consequences resulting therefrom, that they invested him with dictatorial authority for one year.

In the eastern states there is a general dislike to him. It was thought unadvised that he issued a proclamation to the Americans on his last arrival in New York, in which he told them, that among many virtues they possessed great faults, among which he alluded to an ill-directed propensity to religious feelings, and proposed himself as their reformer in this respect. I heard at that time unfavourable expressions from persons in the highest public offices against him; and one of them gave Mr. Owen to understand very plainly, that he considered his intellects rather deranged.[II.16] In one family alone, where theory took place of experimental knowledge, did I hear conversation turn to his advantage.

After all this, I came with the utmost expectation to New Harmony, curious to become acquainted with a man of such extraordinary sentiments. In the tavern, I accosted a man very plainly dressed, about fifty years of age, rather of low stature, who entered into a conversation with me, concerning the situation of the place, and the disordered state in which I would find every thing, where all was newly established, &c. When I asked this man how long before Mr. Owen would be there, he announced himself, to my no small surprize, as Mr. Owen, was glad at my visit, and offered himself to show every thing, and explain to me whatever remained without explanation. As the arrangement calculated for Rapp’s society was not adapted to his, of course many alterations would naturally be made. All the log houses still standing in the place, he intended to remove, and only brick and framed edifices should be permitted to remain. Also all enclosures about particular gardens, as well as all the enclosures within the place itself, he would take away, and only allow the public highways leading through the settlement to be enclosed. The whole should bear a resemblance to a park, in which the separate houses should be scattered about.

In the first place, Mr. Owen carried me to the quondam church of Rapp’s society; a simple wooden building, with a steeple of the same materials, provided with a clock. This church was at present appropriated to joiner’s and shoemaker’s shops, in which the boys are instructed in these mechanic arts.

Behind the church stands a large brick edifice, built in the form of a cross, and furnished with a species of cupola, the purpose of which is unknown. Rapp, they say, had dreamed three times that this building should be erected, and therefore he had it done; but it is thought, and I believe correctly, that he only did this to keep his society in constant employment, so that they could have no leisure to reflect upon their situation, and dependence upon him. His power over them actually extended so far, that to prevent his society from too great an increase, he forbid the husbands from associating with their wives. I also heard here a report which I had already been apprised of in Germany, that he had himself castrated a son who had transgressed this law, for the sake of example, and that the son had died under the operation. Over one of the entrances of this problematical edifice, stands the date of the year 1822, hewed in stone; under it is a gilt rose, and under this is placed the inscription Micah 4. v. 8. The interior of the house forms a large hall, in form of a cross, the ceiling is supported by wooden pillars. Mr. Owen has devoted the hall to the purposes of dancing, music, and meetings for philosophical discussions. He told me that he intended to have the ends of the cross, both of the grand saloon as well as those of the hall under the roof, divided off by partitions, so as to use them for school-rooms, for a library, for a cabinet of natural history, of physical objects, &c.

Mr. Owen then conducted me to Rapp’s former dwelling, a large, well-built brick house, with two lightning rods. The man of God, it appeared, took especial good care of himself; his house was by far the best in the place, surrounded by a garden, with a flight of stone steps, and the only one furnished with lightning rods. Mr. Owen, on the contrary, contented himself with a small apartment in the same tavern where I lodged. At present, the offices, and the residence of Mr. M‘Clure, the associate of Mr. Owen, are in Rapp’s house.[II.17]

Mr. M‘Clure is a man distinguished for learning, who has published a geological chart of the United States. He told me that he was in Germany in the year 1802, and also at Weimar, where he had become acquainted with the literati residing there: I was introduced by him to a native of Alsace, of the name of Neef, a rather aged man, who had the superintendence of the boys. Mr. Owen’s two eldest sons were also here shown to me, pupils of Fellenberg, who is greatly respected. Afterwards Mr. Owen made me acquainted with Mr. Lewis, secretary of the society, from Virginia, and a relation of the great Washington. He was already pretty far advanced in years, and appeared to have united himself to the society from liberal principles, as far as I could judge from our short conversation. Another acquaintance that I made, was with a Mr. Jennings, from Philadelphia, a young man, who was educated as a clergyman, but had quitted that profession to follow this course of life, and had united himself to Mr. Owen. He intended, nevertheless, to leave this place again, and return back to Philadelphia. Many other members have the same design, and I can hardly believe that this society will have a long duration.[II.18] Enthusiasm, which abandons its subjects but too soon, as well as the itch for novelty, had contributed much to the formation of this society. In spite of the principles of equality which they recognise, it shocks the feelings of people of education, to live on the same footing with every one indiscriminately, and eat with them at the same table.

The society consisted, as I was informed, of about one thousand members; at a distance of two miles are founded two new communities. Till a general table shall be instituted, according to the fundamental constitution of the society, the members are placed in four boarding-houses, where they must live very frugally. Several of the most turbulent, with an Irishman who wore a long beard, at their head, wished to leave the society immediately to go to Mexico, there to settle themselves, but where their subsistence will be procured with as much difficulty.

In the evening Mr. Owen conducted me to a concert in the non-descript building. Most of the members of the society were present. The orchestra was not numerous, it consisted at first only of one violin, one violoncello, one clarionet and two flutes. Nevertheless the concert was surprisingly good, especially as the musicians have not been together a year. The clarionet player performed particularly well, and afterwards let us hear him on the bugle. Several good male and female vocalists then took a part, they sang among other things a trio accompanied by the clarionet only. Declamation was interspersed among the musical performances, Lord Byron’s stanzas to his wife after their separation were extremely well recited. Between the two parts of the concert the music played a march, each gentleman gave a lady his arm, and a promenade took place, resembling a Polonaise with pretty figures, sometimes in two couples, sometimes in four; two ladies in the middle, the gentlemen separated from the ladies, then again all together. The concert closed with a lively cotillion. I was, on the whole, much amused; and Mr. Huygens took an active share in the dancing. This general evening amusement takes place often in the week; besides, on Tuesday, there is a general ball. There is a particular costume adopted for the society. That for the men consists of wide pantaloons buttoned over a boy’s jacket, made of light material, without a collar; that of the women of a coat reaching to the knee and pantaloons, such as little girls wear among us. These dresses are not universally adopted, but they have a good appearance. An elderly French lady, who presides over the department of young mothers, and the nursing of all the very small children, stuck by my side during a large portion of the evening, and tormented me with her philosophical views. All the men did not take a share in the dance, i. e. the lower class, but read newspapers, which were scattered over the side-tables.

The public house in which we lived was conducted on account of the society. General Evans was looked for, who was to keep the house; in the mean time it was directed by the physician of the society, Dr. M‘Namee, from Vincennes. Among the public buildings I remarked two of which the lower part was strongly built with rough stone, and provided with loop-holes. The larger of these was the granary, and it was reasonably thought that Rapp had this built as a defensive redoubt for his own people. At the first period of his establishment in this country he not only had the Indians, but also the rude people known under the general title of backwoodsmen, who not only saw the establishment of such a society with jealous eyes, which they knew would be wealthy in a short time, but also entertained a grudge against Rapp’s unnatural rules of chastity.

On the morning of the 14th of April, I strolled about the place to look round me. I visited Mr. Neef, but found his wife only at home, a native of Memmingen, in Swabia. Her husband was in the act of leading the boys out to labour. Military exercises form a part of the instruction of the children. I saw the boys divided into two ranks, and parted into detachments marching to labour, and on the way they performed various wheelings and evolutions. All the boys and girls have a very healthy look, are cheerful and lively, and by no means bashful. The boys labour in the field and garden, and were now occupied with new fencing. The girls learn female employments; they were as little oppressed as the boys with labour and teaching; these happy and interesting children were much more employed in making their youth pass as pleasantly as possible. Madam Neef showed the school-house, in which she dwelt, and in which the places for sleeping were arranged for the boys. Each boy slept on a cot frame, upon a straw bed.

We went next to Rapp’s distillery: it will be removed altogether. Mr. Owen has forbidden distilling also, as well as the use of ardent spirits. Notwithstanding this, the Irishmen here find opportunities of getting whiskey and fuddling themselves from the flat boats that stop here, &c. We saw also a dye-house and a mill set in motion by a steam-engine of ten horse-power. The engine was old and not in good order, Mr. Owen said however, he hoped to introduce steam-mills here in time from England. From the mills we went to the vineyard, which was enclosed and kept in very good order. I spoke to an old French vine-dresser here. He assured me that Rapp’s people had not understood the art of making wine; that he would in time make more and much better wine, than had been done heretofore. The wine stocks are imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and the wine has an entirely singular and strange taste, which reminds one of the common Spanish wines.

We went again to the quondam church, or workshop for the boys, who are intended for joiners and shoemakers. These boys sleep upon the floor above the church in cribs, three in a row, and thus have their sleeping place and place of instruction close together. We also saw the shops of the shoemakers, tailors and saddlers, also the smiths, of which six were under one roof, and the pottery, in which were two rather large furnaces. A porcelain earth has been discovered on the banks of the Mississippi, in the state of Illinois, not far from St. Louis. Two experienced members of the society, went in that direction, to bring some of the earth to try experiments with, in burning. The greater part of the young girls, whom we chanced to meet at home, we found employed in plaiting straw hats. I became acquainted with a Madam F——, a native of St. Petersburg. She married an American merchant, settled there, and had the misfortune to lose her husband three days after marriage. She then joined her husband’s family at Philadelphia, and as she was somewhat eccentric and sentimental, quickly became enthusiastically attached to Mr. Owen’s system. She told me, however, in German, that she found herself egregiously deceived; that the highly vaunted equality was not altogether to her taste; that some of the society were too low, and the table was below all criticism. The good lady appeared to be about to run from one extreme to the other; for she added, that in the summer, she would enter a Shaker establishment near Vincennes.[II.19]

I renewed acquaintance here with Mr. Say, a distinguished naturalist from Philadelphia, whom I had been introduced to, at the Wistar Party there; unfortunately he had found himself embarrassed in his fortune, and was obliged to come here as a friend of Mr. M‘Clure. This gentleman appeared quite comical in the costume of the society, before described, with his hands full of hard lumps and blisters, occasioned by the unusual labour he was obliged to undertake in the garden.

In the evening I went to walk in the streets, and met with several of the ladies of the society, who rested from the labours of the day. Madam F—— was among them, whose complaints of disappointed expectations I had listened to. I feared still more from all that I saw and heard, that the society would have but a brief existence. I accompanied the ladies to a dancing assembly, which was held in the kitchen of one of the boarding-houses. I observed that this was only an hour of instruction to the unpractised in dancing, and that there was some restraint on account of my presence, from politeness I went away, and remained at home the remainder of the evening. About ten o’clock, an alarm of fire was suddenly raised. An old log building used as a wash-house was in flames, immediately the fire-engine kept in a distinct house, was brought and served by persons appointed to that duty. They threw the stream of water through the many apertures of the log-house, and quickly put a stop to the fire. In a quarter of an hour, all was over. Since the houses in the place all stand separately, there is nothing to fear from the extension of fire, unless in a strong wind. The houses, however, are all covered with shingles.

On the 15th of April, I went into the garden back of Rapp’s house to see a plate or block of stone, which is remarkable as it bears the impression of two human feet. This piece of stone was hewed out of a rock near St. Louis, and sold to Mr. Rapp. Schoolcraft speaks of it in his travels, and I insert his remarks, as I have found them correct. “The impressions are to all appearance those of a man standing upright, the left foot a little forwards, the heels turned inwards. The distance between the heels by an exact measurement was six and a quarter inches, and thirteen and a half between the extremities of the great toes. By an accurate examination, it however will be ascertained, that they are not the impression of feet, accustomed to the use of European shoes, for the toes are pressed out, and the foot is flat, as is observed in persons who walk barefoot. The probability that they were caused by the pressure of an individual, that belonged to an unknown race of men, ignorant of the art of tanning hides, and that this took place in a much earlier age than the traditions of the present Indians extend to, this probability I say, is strengthened by the extraordinary size of the feet here given. In another respect, the impressions are strikingly natural, since the muscles of the feet are represented with the greatest exactness and truth. This circumstance weakens very much the hypothesis, that they are possibly evidences of the ancient sculpture of a race of men living in the remote ages of this continent. Neither history nor tradition, gives us the slightest information of such a people. For it must be kept in mind, that we have no proof that the people who erected our surprising western tumuli, ever had a knowledge of masonry, even much less of sculpture, or that they had invented the chisel, the knife, or the axe, those excepted made from porphyry, hornstone or obsidian. The medium length of the human male foot can be taken at ten inches. The length of the foot stamp here described, amounts to ten and a quarter inches, the breadth measured over the toes, in a right angle with the first line is four inches, but the greatest spread of the toes is four and a half inches, which breadth diminishes at the heels to two and a half inches. Directly before these impressions is a well inserted and deep mark, similar to a scroll of which the greatest length is two feet seven inches, and the greatest breadth twelve and a half inches. The rock which contains these interesting traces, is a compact limestone of a bluish-gray colour.”

This rock with the unknown impressions are remembered as long as the country about St. Louis has been known, this table is hewn out of a rock, and indeed out of a perpendicular wall of rock.

The garden of Rapp’s house was the usual flower-garden of a rich German farmer. In it was a green-house, in which several large fig trees, an orange, and lemon tree stood in the earth. Mr. Owen took me into one of the newly-built houses, in which the married members of the society are to dwell. It consisted of two stories, in each two chambers and two alcoves, with the requisite ventilators. The cellar of the house is to contain a heating apparatus, to heat the whole with warm air. When all shall be thoroughly organized, the members will alternately have the charge of heating the apparatus. Each family will have a chamber and an alcove, which will be sufficient, as the little children will be in a nursery, and the larger at school. They will not require kitchens, as all are to eat in common. The unmarried women will live together, as will also the unmarried men, in the manner of the Moravian brethren.

I had an ample conversation with Mr. Owen, relating to his system, and his expectations. He looks forward to nothing less than to remodel the world entirely; to root out all crime; to abolish all punishments; to create similar views and similar wants, and in this manner to avoid all dissension and warfare. When his system of education shall be brought into connection with the great progress made by mechanics, and which is daily increasing, every man can then, as he thought, provide his smaller necessaries for himself, and trade would cease entirely! I expressed a doubt of the practicability of his system in Europe, and even in the United States. He was too unalterably convinced of the results, to admit the slightest room for doubt. It grieved me to see that Mr. Owen should allow himself to be so infatuated by his passion for universal improvement, as to believe and to say that he is about to reform the whole world; and yet that almost every member of his society, with whom I have conversed apart, acknowledged that he was deceived in his expectations, and expressed their opinion that Mr. Owen had commenced on too grand a scale, and had admitted too many members, without the requisite selection! The territory of the society may contain twenty five thousand acres. The sum of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars was paid to Rapp for this purchase, and for that consideration he also left both his cattle, and a considerable flock of sheep behind.

I went with the elder Doctor M‘Namee, to the two new established communities, one of which is called No. 2, or Macluria; the other lately founded, No. 3. No. 2, lies two miles distant from New Harmony, at the entrance of the forest, which will be cleared to make the land fit for cultivation, and consists of nine log houses, first tenanted about four weeks since, by about eighty persons. They are mostly backwoodsmen with their families, who have separated themselves from the community No. 1, in New Harmony, because no religion is acknowledged there, and these people wish to hold their prayer meetings undisturbed. The fields in the neighbourhood of this community were of course very new. The community No. 3, consisted of English country people, who formed a new association, as the mixture, or perhaps the cosmopolitism of New Harmony did not suit them; they left the colony planted by Mr. Birkbeck, at English Prairie, about twenty miles hence, on the right bank of the Wabash, after the unfortunate death of that gentleman,[II.20] and came here. This is a proof that there are two evils that strike at the root of the young societies; one is a sectarian or intolerant spirit; the other, national prejudice. No. 3, is to be built on a very pretty eminence, as yet there is only a frame building for three families begun.

After we had returned to New Harmony, I went to the orchard on the Mount Vernon road to walk, and beheld, to my great concern, what ravages the frost had committed on the fruit blossoms, the vines must have been completely killed. The orchards planted by Rapp and his society are large and very handsome, containing mostly apple and peach trees, also some pear and cherry trees. One of the gardens is exclusively devoted to flowers, where, in Rapp’s time, a labyrinth was constructed of beech tree hedges and flowers, in the middle of which stood a pavilion, covered with the tops of trees.

I afterwards visited Mr. Neef, who is still full of the maxims and principles of the French revolution; captivated with the system of equality; talks of the emancipation of the negroes, and openly proclaims himself an Atheist. Such people stand by themselves, and fortunately are so very few in number, that they can do little or no injury.

In the evening there was a general meeting in the large hall, it opened with music. Then one of the members, an English architect of talent, who came to the United States with Mr. Owen, whose confidence he appeared to possess, and was here at the head of the arranging and architectural department, read some extracts from the newspapers, upon which Mr. Owen made a very good commentary; for example, upon the extension and improvement of steam-engines, upon their adaptation to navigation, and the advantages resulting therefrom. He lost himself, however, in his theories, when he expatiated on an article which related to the experiments which had been made with Perkins’s steam-gun. During these lectures, I made my observations on the much vaunted equality, as some tatterdemalions stretched themselves on the platform close by Mr. Owen. The better educated members kept themselves together, and took no notice of the others. I remarked also, that the members belonging to the higher class of society had put on the new costume, and made a party by themselves. After the lecture the band played a march, each gentleman took a lady, and marched with her round the room. Lastly, a cotillion was danced: the ladies were then escorted home, and each retired to his own quarters.

I went early on the following morning, (Sunday,) to the assembly room. The meeting was opened by music. After this Mr. Owen stated a proposition, in the discussion of which he spoke of the advances made by the society, and of the location of a new community at Valley Forge, in Pennsylvania, and another in the state of New York. A classification of the members was spoken of afterwards. They were separated into three classes, first, of such as undertook to be security for the sums due Mr. Owen and Mr. M‘Clure, (that is, for the amount paid to Rapp, and so expended as a pledge to be redeemed by the society,) and who, if desirous to leave the society, must give six months previous notice; secondly, of such as after a notice of fourteen days can depart; and, lastly of those who are received only on trial.

After this meeting, I paid Mr. M‘Clure a visit, and received from him the French papers. Mr. M‘Clure is old, childless, was never married, and intends, as is reported, to leave his property to the society. Afterwards I went with Mr. Owen, and some ladies of the society, to walk to the cut-off, as it is called, of the Wabash, where this river has formed a new channel, and an island, which contains more than a hundred acres of the best land; at present, however, inundated by water. There is here a substantial grist-mill, erected by Rapp, which was said to contain a very good set of machinery, but where we could not reach it on account of the water. We went some distance along the river, and then returned through the woods over the hills, which, as it was rather warm, and we could discover no pathway, was very laborious to the ladies, who were uncommonly alarmed at the different snakes we chanced to meet. Most of the serpent species here are harmless, and the children catch them for playthings. The poisonous snakes harbouring about here, are rattlesnakes and copperheads; these, however, diminish rapidly in numbers, for it is a common observation, that the poisonous serpents, like the Indians and bears, fly before civilization. The rattlesnakes have a powerful enemy in the numerous hogs, belonging to the settlers, running about the woods, which are very well skilled in catching them by the neck and devouring them.

In the evening I paid visits to some ladies, and witnessed philosophy and the love of equality put to the severest trial with one of them. She is named Virginia, from Philadelphia; is very young and pretty, was delicately brought up, and appears to have taken refuge here on account of an unhappy attachment. While she was singing and playing very well on the piano forte, she was told that the milking of the cows was her duty, and that they were waiting unmilked. Almost in tears, she betook herself to this servile employment, deprecating the new social system, and its so much prized equality.

After the cows were milked, in doing which the poor girl was trod on by one, and daubed by another, I joined an aquatic party with the young ladies and some young philosophers, in a very good boat upon the inundated meadows of the Wabash. The evening was beautiful moonlight, and the air very mild; the beautiful Miss Virginia forgot her stable sufferings, and regaled us with her sweet voice. Somewhat later we collected together in the house No. 2, appointed for a school-house, where all the young ladies and gentlemen of quality assembled. In spite of the equality so much recommended, this class of persons will not mix with the common sort, and I believe that all the well brought up members are disgusted, and will soon abandon the society. We amused ourselves exceedingly during the whole remainder of the evening, dancing cotillions, reels and waltzes, and with such animation as rendered it quite lively. New figures had been introduced among the cotillions, among which is one called the new social system. Several of the ladies made objections to dancing on Sunday; we thought however, that in this sanctuary of philosophy, such prejudices should be utterly discarded, and our arguments, as well as the inclination of the ladies, gained the victory.

On the 17th April, a violent storm arose, which collected such clouds of dust together that it was hardly possible to remain in the streets, and I remained at home almost all day. I received a visit from a Mr. Von Schott. This person, a Wurtemburger by birth, and brother of lady Von Mareuil, in Washington, has settled himself seven or eight miles from New Harmony, and lives a real hermit’s life, without a servant or assistant of any kind. He was formerly an officer in the Wurtemburg cavalry, took his discharge, and went, from pure enthusiasm, and overwrought fanaticism, to Greece, to defend their rights. As he there discovered himself to be deceived in his anticipations, he returned to his native country, and delivered himself up to religious superstition. To extricate himself, in his opinion, from this world plunged in wretchedness, he accompanied his sister to the United States, came to Indiana, bought a piece of land from Rapp, by whom he asserted he was imposed upon, and had difficulties to undergo, since he knew nothing of agriculture. He lived in this manner in the midst of the forest with a solitary horse. A cruel accident had befallen him the week before, his stable with his trusty horse was burnt. He appeared to be a well-informed man, and spoke well and rationally, only when he touched upon religious topics, his mind appeared to be somewhat deranged. He declared that he supported all possible privations with the greatest patience, only he felt the want of intercourse with a friend in his solitude.

To-day two companies of the New Harmony militia paraded, with drums beating, and exercised morning and afternoon. They were all in uniform, well armed, and presented an imposing front.

I was invited to dinner in the house, No. 4. Some gentlemen had been out hunting, and had brought home a wild turkey, which must be consumed. This turkey formed the whole dinner. Upon the whole I cannot complain either of an overloaded stomach, or a head-ache from the wine affecting it, in any way. The living was frugal in the strictest sense, and in nowise pleased the elegant ladies with whom I dined. In the evening I visited Mr. M‘Clure and Madam Fretageot, living in the same house. She is a Frenchwoman, who formerly kept a boarding-school in Philadelphia, and is called mother by all the young girls here. The handsomest and most polished of the female world here, Miss Lucia Saistare and Miss Virginia, were under her care. The cows were milked this evening when I came in, and therefore we could hear their performance on the piano forte, and their charming voices in peace and quiet. Later in the evening we went to the kitchen of No. 3, where there was a ball. The young ladies of the better class kept themselves in a corner under Madam Fretageot’s protection, and formed a little aristocratical club. To prevent all possible partialities, the gentlemen as well as the ladies, drew numbers for the cotillions, and thus apportioned them equitably. Our young ladies turned up their noses apart at the democratic dancers, who often in this way fell to their lot. Although every one was pleased upon the whole, yet they separated at ten o’clock, as it is necessary to rise early here. I accompanied Madam Fretageot and her two pupils home, and passed some time in conversation with Mr. M‘Clure on his travels in Europe, which were undertaken with mineralogical views. The architect, Mr. Whitwell, besides showed me to-day the plan of this establishment. I admired particularly the judicious and economical arrangements for warming and ventilating the buildings, as well as the kitchens and laundries. It would indeed be a desirable thing could a building on this plan once be completed, and Mr. Owen hopes that the whole of New Harmony will thus be arranged.

On the following day I received a visit from one of the German patriots who had entered the society, of the name of Schmidt, who wished to have been considered as first lieutenant in the Prussian artillery, at Erfurt. He appeared to have engaged in one of the political conspiracies there, and to have deserted. Mr. Owen brought him from England last autumn as a servant. He was now a member of the society, and had charge of the cattle. His fine visions of freedom seemed to be very much lowered, for he presented himself to me, and his father to Mr. Huygens, to be employed as servants.

Towards evening, an Englishman, a friend of Mr. Owen, Mr. Applegarth, arrived, who had presided over the school in New Lanark, and was to organize one here in all probability. After dinner I went to walk with him in the vineyard and woods. We conversed much concerning the new system, and the consequences which he had reason to expect would result, &c. and we discovered amongst other things, that Mr. Owen must have conceived the rough features of his general system from considering forced services or statutory labour; for the labour imposed upon persons for which they receive no compensation, would apply and operate much more upon them for their lodging, clothing, food, the education and care of their children, &c. so that they would consider their labour in the light of a corvée. We observed several labourers employed in loading bricks upon a cart, and they performed this so tedious and disagreeable task, as a statutory labour imposed on them by circumstances, and this observation led us to the above reflection. I afterwards visited Mr. M‘Clure, and entertained myself for an hour with the instructive conversation of this interesting old gentleman. Madam Fretageot, who appears to have considerable influence over Mr. M‘Clure, took an animated share in our discourse. In the evening there was a ball in the large assembly room, at which most of the members were present. It lasted only until ten o’clock, in dancing cotillions, and closed with a grand promenade, as before described. There was a particular place marked off by benches for the children to dance in, in the centre of the hall, where they could gambol about without running between the legs of the grown persons.

On the 19th of April, a steam-boat came down the Wabash, bound for Louisville on the Ohio. It stopt opposite Harmony, and sent a boat through the overflow of water to receive passengers. I was at first disposed to embrace the opportunity of leaving this place, but as I heard that the boat was none of the best, I determined rather to remain and go by land to Mount Vernon, to wait for a better steam-boat there. We took a walk to the community, No. 3. The work on the house had made but little progress; we found but one workman there, and he was sleeping quite at his ease. This circumstance recalled the observation before mentioned, concerning gratis-labour, to my mind. We advanced beyond into the woods, commencing behind No. 3: there was still little verdure to be seen.

On the succeeding day, I intended to leave New Harmony early; but as it was impossible to procure a carriage, I was obliged to content myself. I walked to the community No. 2, or Macluria, and farther into the woods. They were employed in hewing down trees to build log houses. The wood used in the brick and frame houses here is of the tulip tree, which is abundant, worked easily, and lasts long. After dinner I walked with Mr. Owen and Madam Fretageot, to community No. 3. There a new vegetable garden was opened; farther on they were employed in preparing a field in which Indian corn was to be sown. This answers the best purpose here, as the soil is too rich for wheat; the stalks grow too long, the heads contain too few grains, and the stalks on account of their length soon break down, so that the crop is not very productive. The chief complaint here is on account of the too great luxuriancy of the soil. The trees are all very large, shoot up quickly to a great height, but have so few, and such weak roots, that they are easily prostrated by a violent storm; they also rot very easily, and I met with a great number of hollow trees, in proportion. I saw them sow maize or Indian corn, for the first time. There were furrows drawn diagonally across the field with the plough, each at a distance of two feet from the other; then other furrows at the same distance apart, at right angles with the first. A person goes behind the plough with a bag of corn, and in each crossing of the furrows he drops six grains. Another person with a shovel follows, and covers these grains with earth. When the young plants are half a foot high, they are ploughed between and the earth thrown up on both sides of the plants; and when they are two feet high this operation is repeated, to give them more firmness and to destroy the weeds. There is a want of experienced farmers here; the furrows were badly made, and the whole was attended to rather too much en amateur.

After we returned to Madam Fretageot’s, Mr. Owen showed me two interesting objects of his invention; one of them consisted of cubes of different sizes, representing the different classes of the British population in the year 1811, and showed what a powerful burden rested on the labouring class, and how desirable an equal division of property would be in that kingdom. The other was a plate, according to which, as Mr. Owen asserted, each child could be shown his capabilities, and upon which, after a mature self-examination, he can himself discover what progress he has made. The plate has this superscription: scale of human faculties and qualities at birth. It has ten scales with the following titles: from the left to the right, self-attachment; affections; judgment; imagination; memory; reflection; perception; excitability; courage; strength. Each scale is divided into one hundred parts, which are marked from five to five. A slide that can be moved up or down, shows the measure of the qualities therein specified each one possesses, or believes himself to possess.

I add but a few remarks more. Mr. Owen considers it as an absurdity to promise never-ending love on marriage. For this reason he has introduced the civil contract of marriage, after the manner of the Quakers, and the French laws into his community, and declares that the bond of matrimony is in no way indissoluble. The children indeed, cause no impediment in case of a separation, for they belong to the community from their second year, and are all brought up together.

Mr. M‘Clure has shown himself a great adherent of the Pestalozzian system of education. He had cultivated Pestalozzi’s acquaintance while upon his travels, and upon this recommendation brought Mr. Neef with him to Philadelphia, to carry this system into operation. At first it appeared to succeed perfectly, soon however, Mr. Neef found so many opposers, apparently on account of his anti-religious principles, that he gave up the business, and settled himself on a farm in the woods of Kentucky. He had just abandoned the farm to take the head of a boarding-school, which Mr. M‘Clure intended to establish in New Harmony. Mr. Jennings, formerly mentioned, was likewise to co-operate in this school; his reserved and haughty character was ill suited for such a situation, and Messrs. Owen and M‘Clure willingly consented to his withdrawing, as he would have done the boarding-school more injury, from the bad reputation in which he stood, than he could have assisted it by his acquirements. An Englishman by birth, he was brought up for a military life; this he had forsaken to devote himself to clerical pursuits, had arrived in the United States as a Universalist preacher, and had been received with much attention in that capacity in Cincinnati, till he abandoned himself with enthusiasm to the new social system, and made himself openly and publicly known as an Atheist.[II.21]

I passed the evening with the amiable Mr. M‘Clure, and Madam Fretageot, and became acquainted through them, with a French artist, Mons. Lesueur, calling himself uncle of Miss Virginia, as also a Dutch physician from Herzogenbusch, Dr. Troost, an eminent naturalist. Both are members of the community, and have just arrived from a scientific pedestrian tour to Illinois and the southern part of Missouri, where they have examined the iron, and particularly the lead-mine works, as well as the peculiarities of the different mountains. Mr. Lesueur has besides discovered several species of fish, as yet undescribed. He was there too early in the season to catch many snakes. Both gentlemen had together collected thirteen chests of natural curiosities, which are expected here immediately. Mr. Lesueur accompanied the naturalist Perron, as draftsman in his tour to New South Wales, under Captain Baudin, and possessed all the illuminated designs of the animals which were discovered for the first time on this voyage, upon vellum. This collection is unique of its kind, either as regards the interest of the objects represented, or in respect to their execution; and I account myself fortunate to have seen them through Mr. Lesueur’s politeness. He showed me also the sketches he made while on his last pedestrian tour, as well as those during the voyage of several members of the society to Mount Vernon, down the Ohio from Pittsburgh. On this voyage, the society had many difficulties to contend with, and were obliged often to cut a path for the boat through the ice. The sketches exhibit the originality of talent of the artist. He had come with Mr. M‘Clure in 1815, from France to Philadelphia, where he devoted himself to the arts and sciences. Whether he will remain long in this society or not, I cannot venture to decide.[II.22]

[CHAPTER XXII.]

Travels to Louisville, and Stay in that City.

On the 21st of April, we left New Harmony, after taking a cordial leave of Mr. Owen, and availed ourselves of the mail stage, which leaves here once a week for Mount Vernon, to make this passage. Besides our company, there was only a single traveller in the stage, a Mr. Riley, from Cincinnati, and a native of Ireland. One mile from New Harmony, we were forced to alight from the carriage, as the horses would not draw us up a steep hill. One-half mile farther, we got out again on account of a similar dilemma, and we had hardly done so, when it was overturned by the unskilfulness of the driver. We unloaded our baggage, left it under the care of Böttner, my servant, permitted the driver to his chagrin and mortification to go on alone, and returned back on foot to New Harmony, to look about for another method of conveyance. I paid a visit to Messrs. M‘Clure, Lesueur, &c. They told me that about ten o’clock a cart under the direction of a Mr. Johnson would leave this place for Mount Vernon, in which our baggage would find a place. As to our own conveyance, I saw plainly that it would be the wiser plan to confide mine to my own trustworthy legs. I assumed therefore the pilgrim’s staff, left my slower moving travelling companions something behind, and accomplished the sixteen miles to Mount Vernon, over a very hilly road, in five hours.

I did not pass through Springfield, saw only two solitary log-houses, and encountered but few people. The herbage had advanced very much during a week; many trees were in blossom, and the young green leaves, particularly those of the tulip trees, produced a very pleasing effect. I passed by many sugar-maples, which were perforated, to draw the sugar juice from them. When the trees are completely in leaf, the natural scenery of these forests, of which the ground is very hilly, must be extremely beautiful, especially to the eyes of a northern European, who is not accustomed to the grandeur of the colossal sycamores, tulip trees and maples. In noticing these trees, I may add the remark that Mr. Rapp had planted the Lombardy poplar in the streets of New Harmony; that these poplars had succeeded very well at first, but when their roots struck a stratum of reddish sand lying under the good fertile soil, they died. Mr. Rapp then substituted mulberry trees, which have thriven well, and Mr. Owen has it in design, to make an experiment in raising silk-worms.

I reached Mount Vernon, tolerably fatigued, about three o’clock, P. M. I met Dr. Clark again. Mr. Huygens and Mr. Riley made their appearance after some time. Towards evening the expected cart arrived, but without Böttner and my baggage. The carter said in his own excuse, that they had given him so much freight in New Harmony, that his horses could hardly draw it, and that there was no room left for my effects. After having made a survey of the localities in person, I was obliged to admit the cogency of his reasons, in spite of my vexation; and of course to find a remedy in patience.

In this state of affairs, I solaced myself with Major Dunn’s society. He and his countryman Riley, belonged to the better class of Irish, and possessed a good deal of shrewdness, so that the time passed very pleasantly. In the evening we went to the court-house, to hear a Presbyterian preacher, travelling from the eastern states. He was quite a young man, of the name of Stewart, whom I had met in New Harmony; he had, however, only looked about, without announcing himself as a clergyman, probably from his knowing the anti-religious opinions prevailing there. In the little new settled places of the western states, they do not build churches before houses, as is the practice in the north-eastern section, but a dwelling and clearing of land is their first object. Nevertheless, divine service is not lacking; for many clergymen, who are not located, seek after a situation; in so doing are accustomed to preach, where they can be heard. In most of the public houses, and ferry-boats, no pay is required from these clergymen, and thus they can take pretty long journies, the descriptions of which are often published, at a very cheap rate. From the want of a church in Mount Vernon, the meeting was held in the court-house. It was a temporary log-house, which formed but one room. The chimney fire, and two tallow candles formed the whole illumination of it, and the seats were constructed of some blocks and boards, upon which upwards of twenty people sat. The singing was conducted by a couple of old folks, with rather discordant voices. The preacher then rose, and delivered us a sermon. I could not follow his discourse well, and was very much fatigued by my day’s walk. In his prayer, however, the minister alluded to those who despise the word of the Lord, and prayed for their conviction and conversion. This hint was evidently aimed at the community in New Harmony and the new social system. In the sermon there was no such allusion. Probably the discourse was one of those, which he knew by heart; which he delivered in various places, and admitted of no interpolations. The service lasted till ten o’clock at night.

Unluckily for me, my port-folio also remained behind among my other baggage. I suffered therefore, the whole forenoon of the next day the most excessive tedium, and was obliged to remain in noble idleness. I went to walk in the woods, gaped about at the pretty flowers, and the amazing variety of butterflies; came back, seated myself in Mr. Dunn’s store, and viewed the steam-boats going down the river. At length in the afternoon, Böttner arrived, with my baggage in a one-horse cart, splashed all over with mud, as he had been obliged to lead the restive horse all the way by the bridle. The poor fellow bivouacked in the woods yesterday, from one o’clock in the morning till four in the evening, when by chance the shepherds of New Harmony passed by, and gave Mr. Owen an account of Böttner’s situation, upon which old Dr. M‘Namee had come out with his one-horse vehicle, and brought back the baggage and its guard. By Mr. Owen’s kindness, the cart was on this day sent on, with my effects.

Now my earnest desire was to get away as quickly as possible. To be sure, the splendid view of the Ohio and its banks by the light of the moon, regaled me in the evening; but the residence in this place was too inhospitable and uninteresting; besides I suffered the whole afternoon and evening with tooth-ache, and symptoms of fever. But how were we to get away? During the night a steam-boat passed, going up the river, but she kept to the left bank where the deepest water was, and took no notice of Mount Vernon. About nine o’clock on the 23d of April, another steam-boat, the General Wayne, came up, bound in the same direction. A flag was hoisted, to give notice that passengers wished to come on board, we waved our handkerchiefs, but the vessel did not regard us, and passed on. To kill time, I went with Mr. Riley to Major Dunn’s store, where we told stories about steam-boats to keep off ennui as well as we could, but in vain. In the evening I heard much concerning Rapp’s society, from a German mechanic, who had belonged to it, and who had left it as he said, because Rapp refused to let him have the inheritance of his father-in-law. We heard psalmody in the court-house, for the religious inhabitants of the place, mostly methodists, hold Sunday evening prayer meetings without a clergyman. The day was upon the whole quite warm, and towards evening we had to contend with numbers of mosquetoes. To prevent in some measure their coming from the woods, where they harboured, fires were kindled about the place, and likewise before the houses. The situation here must be an unhealthy one, for not only was I annoyed during the night with head-ache and fever, but Messrs. Huygens, Riley, and Johnson, complained of being unwell. With the exception of some miserable, filthy lodgings in Canada, I do not recollect in any part of the United States, even among the Creek Indians, to have found myself so wretchedly situated in every respect, as here. The food, furnished in small quantity as it was, was hardly fit to be eaten; the only beverage was water, which it was necessary to mix with ordinary whiskey; the beds very bad; and the whole house in a state of the most revolting filthiness.

On the morning of the 24th of April, came the hour of our deliverance. The steam-boat General Neville came up the river after seven o’clock. We dispatched a boat to tell them that several cabin passengers waited for them in Mount Vernon. Immediately the vessel steered for our shore, and took us in.

We were extremely rejoiced at our escape from this disagreeable place. The boat had come from St. Louis, and was bound for Louisville. She was but small, containing sixteen births in her cabin, and had a high-pressure engine. Luckily, however, we found but three cabin passengers on board. We started immediately, and the banks of the river here and there low and subject to inundation, gratified us very much by the fresh green of the trees. We passed by some considerable islands. One of them, Diamond Island, is about three miles and a half long and above a mile broad, and must contain several thousand acres of excellent land. Afterwards we saw upon the left bank, here pretty high, the little town of Henderson, in Kentucky. Eleven miles and a half higher, we saw Evansville upon an eminence on the right shore, still an inconsiderable place, but busy; it being the principal place in the county of Vandeburg, in the state of Indiana, lying in the neighbourhood of a body of fertile land, and is a convenient landing place for emigrants, who go to the Wabash country. Upon the same shore are seen several dwellings upon the fresh turf, shaded by high green trees. Close below Evansville, a small river called Big Pigeon creek falls into the Ohio. In its mouth we saw several flat boats, with apparatus similar to pile-driving machines. These vessels belong to a contractor, who has entered into an engagement with the government, to make the Ohio free and clear of the snags and sawyers lying in its current. This work was discharged in a negligent manner, and the officer to whom the superintendence was committed, is censured for having suffered himself to be imposed upon. I remembered having seen models in the patent-office at Washington, of machines which were intended to effect this purpose. Seven miles and a half higher up, Green river unites itself to the Ohio on the left bank. Of this the Western Navigator says: “that it is a considerable river in Kentucky, navigable about two hundred miles, and rises in Lincoln county.” On board our boat we did not find ourselves comfortable, either in respect to lodging, or the table. All was small and confined, and in the evening we were much annoyed by the mosquetoes. My mosqueto bar, purchased in New Orleans, assisted me very much as a defence during the night.

During the night, we stopped several times to take in wood, and once to repair the engine. An overhanging tree, which we approached too nearly, gave us a powerful blow, and did much damage to the upper part of the vessel. I had no state room, and therefore obtained no sleep during the constant uproar. The banks became constantly higher, and more picturesque in their appearance. They were frequently rocky: in several rocks we observed cavities, which with the houses built in front of them, produced a pleasing effect. Upon the right bank, was a little place called Troy; several settlements, composed of frame houses, instead of logs. Towards evening we saw upon the left bank, the mouth of a little stream, Sinking creek. Upon the right shore of this creek, is a group of houses called Rome, and on the left a little place, named Stevensport; both places are united by a wooden bridge, resting upon one high pier. I spent nearly the whole day on deck, to regale myself with the beautiful landscapes surrounding us. Between several turns of the river the country is so shut in, that one would suppose himself sailing on a lake. The agreeable sensations caused by the beautiful country, and the mild spring temperature which surrounded me, upon the whole compensated for many of our privations. We indeed were in want of every thing but absolute necessaries. I met an acquaintance indeed; one of our fellow travellers who had formerly been a clerk of the English North West Company, and had remained three years at the posts of the company in the Rocky Mountains, and on the Columbia river; but this person had acquired so many of the habits of the savages, that his company was in no wise an acquisition. I was also, as well as all the other gentlemen who had been in that unlucky Mount Vernon, tormented with constant pains in the limbs, and our coarse food was so bad, that it was hardly possible to consume it. There was neither wine nor beer on board, nor any acids, so that water and whiskey, were the beverages to which we were reduced. For many years I had never undergone such gastronomic privations, as in the western parts of America. The Ohio appears to contain many good and well tasted fish, but it seems that the people here prefer the eternal hog meat, and that mostly salted, to every thing else, for until now I had seen no fish in these regions, at least none procured for eating. In the night, we advanced on our voyage without stop or accident.

On the morning of the 26th of April, we saw the mouth of Salt river, which, as the Western Navigator says, is a considerable river of Kentucky, about one hundred and thirty yards wide at its mouth, and navigable one hundred and fifty miles. Twenty miles above this, the little town of New Albany lies on the right bank, which promises to be a flourishing place. It has a factory of steam-engines, which finds good employment here. On the bank, a newly-built steam-boat was lying, waiting for her engine. These engines must be built very strong, proportionably too powerful for the tonnage of the vessel, on account of the stiffness of the current. They of consequence suffer a violent shock from it, and can only be used about three years. An island in the river divides it into two narrow channels, in which there are rapid currents. Above the island is the foot of the Falls of Ohio. At the present high stage of water, the descent does not strike the eye, and vessels are able to pass up or down the river over the falls. Ours, which went no farther up, stopped on the left bank at Shippingport, opposite New Albany, two miles below Louisville.

Shippingport, is an insignificant place, which is supported by the lading and unlading of vessels. We found several hackney coaches, which carried us and our baggage by land to Louisville, where we took up our abode in a large and respectable inn, called Washington Hall, kept by a Mr. Allen. The Western Navigator has the following remarks upon this neighbourhood: “The rapids of the Ohio are, in a natural as well as a political regard, a point well deserving of attention. In low states of the water, they are the termination of navigation by steam-boats, and the last place in the descent of the Ohio, where any considerable impediment occurs in its course. A number of infant towns have already sprung up on both shores of the Ohio, in the neighbourhood of this point, Jefferson, Clarksburg, and New Albany, in Indiana; Louisville, Shippingport, and Portland, in Kentucky. Among these is Louisville, the principal, with a population of three thousand souls; while new Albany contains about one thousand, Shippingport six hundred, and Jeffersonville five hundred inhabitants; all these are thriving situations. Inclusive of the towns and neighbourhood, there is a population of ten thousand people in this vicinity. In the year 1810, Louisville contained only thirteen hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants; it exceeds beyond a doubt its present estimate of five thousand, and will still increase. It is the seat of justice for Jefferson county, Kentucky, contains a prison, court-house, and the other essential buildings, besides a theatre, three banks, of which one is a branch of the United States Bank, a market, several places of worship, and three printing-offices. Louisville lies in 38° 18’ north latitude, and 5° 42’ west longitude from Washington.”

Louisville, at least the main street of it, running parallel with the Ohio, has a good appearance. This street is rather broad, paved, and provided with foot-walks; it contains brick buildings and several considerable stores. In our hotel, I renewed my acquaintance with Major Davenport, of the sixth regiment of infantry, whom, together with his lady, I had known in Washington, at General Brown’s, and who is here on recruiting duty. It fell out luckily enough, that the post-master here, Mr. Gray, had just married his daughter, and in compliment to her gave a splendid party, to which I received an invitation. I repaired to it with Major Davenport, and found an extremely numerous, and, contrary to my expectations, even an elegant society. It was a real English rout, so full that many of the guests were obliged to remain on the steps. I was introduced to most of the ladies and gentlemen, was forced to talk a good deal, and found myself very much annoyed by the heat prevailing in the rooms. About eleven o’clock, I reached home heartily fatigued.

In former years, when the state of Kentucky was an integral part of Virginia, Louisville consisted of a stockade, built as a protection against the hostile Indian tribes, who then still inhabited the banks of the Ohio. It received its name as a mark of respect for the unfortunate King, Louis XVI. This is attributable to the Canadian traders, who established this post to secure their trade. By degrees white settlers joined them, and thus the town commenced, which at first suffered much from the Indians. It is five hundred and eighty miles distant from Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one from Cincinnati, and thirteen hundred and forty-nine from New Orleans. I took a walk with Major Davenport through the town, and to the new canal. It consists of three streets running parallel with the Ohio, of which only the first or front one is built out completely and paved; and of several cross streets which cut the former at right angles. It has several churches, tolerably well built; a new one was began, but on rather too large a scale. The pious funds were exhausted; therefore a lodge of freemasons undertook the finishing of this grand house, and kept it for their own use. The canal is destined to light vessels over the Ohio, when they cannot pass the falls on account of low water, and are obliged to discharge their cargo. It is apprehended however, that the money invested in the canal will not yield a great interest, as the time of service, for which the canal is required does not extend beyond three months. During six months of the year the Ohio is so low, that not a solitary boat can navigate it, and when it rises, it becomes so high, that the rocks which produce the rapids are covered, so that vessels can go up and down without danger. The labour on the canal has been commenced about six weeks. The banks in the neighbourhood of the canal are high, and present a beautiful prospect over the rapids, and the adjacent region, which is well cultivated and bounded by woody hills.

A second walk with Major Davenport, was directed to the north side of the town, where several respectable country houses are situated, all built of brick; and then to a handsome wood, through which a causeway runs, which is used by the inhabitants as a pleasure walk. The wood contains very handsome beech trees, sugar maples, sycamores and locust trees, also different species of nut-bearing trees.

The state of Kentucky is involved at this period in considerable confusion. A son of Governor Desha, was arrested on a charge of having robbed and murdered a traveller the year before; was tried and found guilty by two different juries. For the purpose of screening his son, as was reported, the governor had changed the whole court, and filled it anew with his own creatures. There was a prodigious excitement through the state at this arbitrary stroke of authority. It was torn by parties; I was assured that political struggles, often terminating in sanguinary conflicts, were the order of the day; nay, that this division had already given occasion to several assassinations. It is said to be almost as dangerous to speak upon the political relations of the state, as to converse upon religion in Spain.

A merchant from Lexington, Mr. Wenzel, a native of Bavaria, made me acquainted with an architect, Barret, from New York, who has the superintendence over the canal that is going forward. I received some more particular intelligence from this person concerning the work. The expense was estimated at three hundred and seventy-seven thousand dollars. The labour on it began this March, and is to be concluded in the month of November of the following year. The length of the canal amounts to nearly two miles. It commences below Louisville in a small bay, goes behind Shippingport, and joins the Ohio between that place and Portland. Its descent was reckoned at twenty-four feet. Three locks, each at a distance of one hundred and ninety feet from each other, will be located not far from the mouth near Shippingport, and the difference of level in each will be eight feet. The breadth of the locks was fixed at fifty feet, to admit of the passage of the broadest steam-boat, on which account also the interval from one lock to the other was made one hundred and ninety feet. Above the highest lock on both sides of the canal, dry docks will be constructed for steam-boats to repair in. The sides of the canal are only walled with masonry between the locks. The banks above are in a terrace form. One advantage this canal has, is that the bottom consists of rock; the depth to which it is hewed or blown out, must be throughout fifty feet wide. The rock, however, which is broke out here is a brittle limestone, which is not fit for water masonry, and of course does not answer for locks. The rock employed for this work is a species of blue stone, brought out of the state of Indiana, and a bulk of sixteen square feet, four feet deep, costs four dollars delivered at the canal. To dig this canal out, twenty-seven feet of yellow clay at its thickest part, then seven feet thick of yellow sand; from here fifteen feet thick of blue clay, must be passed through before you come to the rock, where there are ten feet thickness still to be dug away. As for the lock gates, they were to be made only of timber, and none of the improvements introduced in England, either the elliptical form of the gates, or the iron frames were to be employed. Moreover, I observed from the profile of the work, the incredible height of the river, which often raises itself fifty feet over places fordable in the last of summer.

Upon the following day I took a walk with Dr. Croghan and Major Davenport, down the canal to Shippingport, and witnessed the labour in removing the earth for the canal. The soil intended to be dug out, was first ploughed by a heavy plough, drawn by six oxen. Afterwards a sort of scoop drawn by two horses was filled with earth, (and it contained three times as much as an ordinary wheel-barrow,) it was then carried up the slope, where it was deposited, and the scoop was brought back to be filled anew. In this manner much time and manual labour was saved.

Several steam-boats lie at Shippingport, among them was the General Wayne, which had arrived at New Orleans in five days voyage from this place; had stopt there five days on account of unloading, and reloading, and had made her return trip from New Orleans to Louisville in ten days; consequently had moved against the stream one hundred and thirty-five miles daily. Several hackney coaches waited here from Louisville, expecting the arrival of the steam-boat George Washington, which was looked for every minute. The country is highly romantic. We found ourselves on an eminence upon the bank, where a large substantial warehouse had been built jutting over the river. Before us was the foot of the falls; opposite an island overgrown with wood, to the right the falls, and Louisville in the back ground; to the left on the other shore, New Albany, and all around in the rear, a green forest of the finest trees.

On our return we passed by a large deserted brick building. It is called the Hope Distillery, and was established by a company of speculators to do business on a large scale. After the company had invested about seventy thousand dollars, several of the stockholders stopped payment. One of them procured the whole at auction for three thousand dollars, and would now let any one have it for less. In the year 1817, the desire to buy land and build upon it, had risen to a mania in this place. Dr. Croghan showed me a lot of ground, which he had then purchased for two thousand dollars, and for which, at present, no one would hardly offer him seven hundred. He has hired a German gardener, who has laid out a very pretty vegetable garden on this spot, which will yield considerable profit by his industrious management.

Dr. Ferguson, a physician here, carried us to the hospital. This edifice lies insulated upon a small eminence. The building was commenced several years ago, and is not yet finished. The state of Kentucky gave the ground as a donation, and bears a part of the expenses of building. As the establishment is principally used for the reception of sick seamen, congress has given the hospital a revenue from the custom-house in New Orleans. The hospital consists of a basement story, three stories above, and wings, which each have a basement and two stories. In the basement of the centre building, are the kitchen, wash-house, the store-rooms, &c., and in the upper story, the chamber for the meeting of the directors, the apothecary’s room, the steward’s dwelling, and the state rooms for patients paying board and lodging. In the third story a theatre for surgical operations will be arranged. In the wings are roomy and well aired apartments for the white patients, and in the basement, those for the negroes and coloured persons. Slavery is still permitted in Kentucky. There has been until now only one apartment habitable, in which twelve patients are lying. These have cleanly beds, but only wooden bedsteads. When the building is thoroughly finished, it will contain at least one hundred and fifty persons with comfort. Such an establishment is extremely necessary for such a place as Louisville, which is very unhealthy in summer.

I made with Major Davenport an excursion into the country, to the very respectable country-seat, Locust Grove, six miles from Louisville, belonging to Dr. Croghan and a younger brother, and inherited from their father. Close by the town we crossed a small stream, which falls here into the Ohio, and is called Bear Grass creek. This serves the keel and flat boats as a very safe harbour. From the bridge over this, the road goes several miles through a handsome wood on the banks of the Ohio, past country-seats, and well cultivated fields, behind which fine looking hills arose. The wood consisted mostly of sycamores. We observed five that sprung from one root; two are quite common. The trees are very thick. We measured the bulk of the thickest sycamore, and found it twenty-seven feet four inches in circumference. I never recollect to have seen such a mammoth tree. Locust Grove itself lies about a mile from the river, and is, as appears from its name, surrounded by those trees. We found here the doctor, his brother William Croghan, with his young wife, a native of Pittsburgh, and a fat, lovely little boy, who strikingly reminded me of my sons.

At a party in the house of Mr. Use, a rich merchant and president of the branch of the United States Bank here, we met a very numerous and splendid society. Cotillions and reels were danced to the music of a single violin, and every thing went off pleasantly. We remained till midnight, and the company were still keeping up the dance, when we left them.

Dr. Ferguson was very much occupied in vaccination. The natural small-pox had made its appearance within a few days, under a very malignant form, in the town. On this account every one had their children vaccinated as speedily as possible; even those who were prejudiced against vaccination. In the evening, I went with Major and Mrs. Davenport to the house of Mrs. Wilson, to tea, whose daughter, fifteen years of age, had been married above a month. The young females marry much too early here, quite as early as in Louisiana.

There were two pieces represented at the theatre for the benefit of a Mrs. Drake; Man and Wife, a favourite English drama, and a farce called Three Weeks after Marriage. We were present on this occasion. The proscenium is very small; a confined pit, a single row of boxes, and a gallery. It was well filled; as Mrs. Drake was very much a favourite with the ladies here, all the boxes were full of the fashionables of the place. The dramatic corps was very ordinary with the exception of Mrs. Drake. Most of the actors were dressed very badly, had not committed their parts, and played in a vulgar style. One actor was so intoxicated, that he was hardly able to keep his legs.

I was furthermore witness to a revolting spectacle in Louisville, from which I escaped as quick as I was able. A pregnant mulatto woman was offered for sale at public auction, with her two children. The woman stood with her children on a bench at a coffee-house; the auctioneer standing by her side, indulged himself in brutal jests upon her thriving condition, and sold her for four hundred dollars!

[CHAPTER XXIII.]

Cincinnati, interior of the State of Ohio.—Pittsburgh, in Pennsylvania.

On the 30th of April I was very agreeably surprised by a visit from Colonel Wool, returning from an inspection on the Red river, the Arkansas, and New Orleans: he had ascended the stream in the steam-boat Washington, and arrived in the night at Shippingport. Being on his return to Washington, he took his passage on board the steam-boat Atlanta, for Pittsburgh. As this boat stopped at Cincinnati, whither it was my intention to go, I immediately concluded upon continuing my journey in the same boat, to enjoy as long as possible the society of so estimable a friend. We went on board between ten and eleven. The Atlanta was crowded with passengers, but we were fixed very comfortably and neatly. The greater part of the passengers were from Natchez, who came with the intention of spending the summer in the healthier northern states. Among them was Major Chotard, who was going with his family to New York, whence he intended to embark for France; and Abbé Martial, a Frenchman, who had kept a boarding-school in New Orleans for a long time, and was at that time employed by the Bishop of Kentucky in Bairdstown, on whose account he was to travel in France and Italy.

Our trip up the river was very pleasant. The weather was fine; the shores of the Ohio became more and more interesting the higher we ascended the stream. In the afternoon, we perceived on the right shore the little town of Madison, situated on an eminence. It appeared to be in a flourishing condition, and contained many brick houses; a multitude of well-dressed persons were standing on the shore. Towards evening we passed the mouth of the Kentucky river on the left shore. The Kentucky river, according to the Western Navigator, is a beautiful river in Kentucky. It originates in the Cumberland mountains, is two hundred miles in length, one hundred and fifty of which are navigable. Its mouth is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and proves to be an excellent harbour for boats. The town occupies a very pretty situation; above its mouth, and farther down lies Prestonville. The flourishing town of Frankfort, the seat of government, is situated about sixty miles from the mouth of the river. The former is five hundred and twenty-four and a half miles distant from Pittsburgh, fifty-seven and a half from Cincinnati, and fifty-five and a half from Louisville. Shortly after leaving Louisville, we were followed by another steam-boat called the General Marion, towards evening it reached, and wanted to pass us; a race took place, which discomposed us considerably, and became dangerous to a high degree. The boilers, being soon over-heated, might have burst and occasioned a great disaster; during this time we were so close together, that the railing, as well as the roofs of the wheels knocked against each other. The danger increased as night drew on, and particularly so as there were a great number of ladies on board, who were crying in a most piteous manner. One of them conducted herself most distractedly; she fell into hysteric fits, wanted to throw herself in the water on the opposite side of the boat, and could scarcely be prevented by three strong men. The heating of the boilers of the General Marion had been so violent, that they ran short of wood, and to their great confusion, and our extreme satisfaction, they were not only left behind, but were overtaken by the slow steam-boat Ohio: thus the Atlanta obtained a brilliant victory. Ten miles above the mouth of the Kentucky river on the right shore, is the little town of Vevay, built and inhabited by Switzers. They planted vineyards, which it is said give them a good revenue. I regretted very much that we passed them by night, and thus were deprived of the view of Vevay. On the left shore is a small village called Ghent, in honour of the treaty concluded in that city, in Flanders. I regretted not to have been able to visit that place, if only on account of the name. Without farther accident we went on the whole night, and next morning found ourselves opposite to the mouth of the Great Miami, which joins the Ohio from the right shore. This stream forms the boundary between the states of Indiana and Ohio, and the Western Navigator makes the following observation concerning it. “The Great Miami is a considerable river, which takes its sources in Allen, Logan, Shelby, Merion, and Drake counties. It runs southerly through Miami and Montgomery counties, and receives in the last two considerable rivers, on the left the Mad river, and on the right the south-west fork. On entering Butler county the Miami takes a south-westerly direction, and flows into the Ohio at the south-west corner of this state, and the north-east one of Indiana. Its course is one hundred and twenty miles. Its sources situated between 40° and 41° lat. are in the vicinity of the Massassinaway, a branch of the Wabash, the Auglaize and St. Mary’s, which are branches of the Maumée and the Sciota, its course is in general rapid, but without any considerable falls, and runs through a large and fertile valley which is partly submerged by high water. Near Dayton, about seventy-five miles from its mouth, the Miami receives on the east side the Mad river; from this place boats carrying three and four thousand barrels, may run into the Ohio during high water. The trial of ascending Mad river is seldom made, the stream being too rapid and there being a great many sand-banks and dams. The Miami has a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during forty miles. ”

We found the shores of the Ohio well cultivated, with orchards and Indian corn: we observed several very pretty country-seats. These shores are mostly elevated, and at the distance of about a mile we could perceive a chain of hills covered with woods, which made a fine prospect. Towards ten o’clock in the morning we reached Cincinnati, four hundred and forty-nine miles from Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one from Louisville, and fourteen hundred and eighty from New Orleans. It is situated on the right shore of the Ohio, and built at the foot of a hill, which is surrounded by a half circle of higher hills covered with forests. This city presents a very fine aspect. The hills on the opposite side likewise form a half circle, and in this manner the hill on which Cincinnati is built, lies as it were in a basin. On the left shore, the Licking river flows into the Ohio. This, says the Western Navigator, is a considerable river in Kentucky, which, originating not far from the sources of the Cumberland and running about two hundred miles in a north-westerly direction, flows into the Ohio opposite Cincinnati. The towns of Newport and Covington, the former immediately above, and the latter below the mouth of Licking river, are beautifully situated in Campbell county, Kentucky: Newport contains a military depot of the United States. The shores near Cincinnati are rather steep, and to render the loading and unloading of boats more convenient, they are paved and provided with rings and chains of iron.

Before we could land, the health officers came on board to seek information respecting the health of the passengers, as great fears were entertained in Cincinnati of the small-pox, which was raging in Louisville. We took lodgings at Mack’s, a good hotel, near the shore. Shortly after our arrival, I took a walk in town with Colonel Wool and Major Foster, of the sixth regiment, who came here to recruit. We visited some bookstores. The town contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants, and consists mostly of brick houses. Some of the streets run parallel with the Ohio, and others form a right-angle with them, which makes them very regular; they are wide, well-paved, and have side-walks. Those streets which cross in the direction of the river, ascend and lead to the top of the hill, from which there is a view resembling a panorama. Here they were building a large Catholic cathedral, which was commenced during the last year, and would probably be finished the next: it will be an ornament to the city. The Bishop, Mr. Fenwick, had been travelling for some years past in the Catholic countries of Europe, and had collected considerable contributions for the construction of this cathedral. The old cathedral, a modest wooden building, stands yet in the rear of the new one; it is to be demolished when the former is finished. Cincinnati was settled in the year 1788, round an old fort, called Washington. The first settlers came from New England. The settlement did not succeed until 1794, when General Wayne subdued the Indians. In 1815, it contained six thousand five hundred, in 1818, about nine thousand, and in 1826, about fifteen thousand. Cincinnati is the most important city of the western states. There are two Presbyterian, two Methodist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Swedenborg, and one Quaker church, and the Catholic cathedral. There are three markets, and several museums. We visited the principal one, called the Western Museum, but did not meet with any thing new: several Indian dresses, weapons, pipes, a human scalp, a dried human head from the South Sea Islands, the head of an Egyptian mummy, manuscripts on papyrus from the sarcophagus of the mummies, several ancient and modern coins, the last consisting mostly of foreign gold coins, and some objects of natural history; a handsome collection of birds, many of them European, several quadrupeds, some minerals, as well as an indifferent collection of butterflies. We also saw some oil paintings,[II.23] scarcely worth mentioning, and finally some show-boxes.

To my great regret, Colonel Wool left us this day, to continue his journey up the river, on board the Atlanta. Having seen on the map of the city of Cincinnati, the indication of some Indian mounds, I went in search of them, but was unsuccessful, for the very good reason that the hills had been demolished and in their place houses built. After this I called on Bishop Fenwick, but he was not at home. I here met with a clergyman who was a native of Hildesheim, his name was Rese, who was educated in the Propaganda in Rome. This man showed me the old and new cathedral. The former is built of wood, resembling a German village church; in its interior the splendid episcopal seat is particularly distinguished. The altar had but few ornaments with the exception of four silver chandeliers which the Queen of Etruria gave to Bishop Fenwick for his church, and a gilded tabernacle a gift from Pope Pius VII. In the sacristy there were no ornaments, with the exception of two gilded frames with relics. The new cathedral is a spacious and lofty building: they were building the choir, in which an organ made in Pittsburgh was to be placed. There was to be a large vault under the altar, destined for the sepulture of the bishops and clergymen. The church had not as yet any bells, with respect to these, the clergy expected some contributions from Italy. The vicar-general of the bishop was Abbé Hill,[II.24] he had formerly been a captain in the British service, and having become a Catholic while in Italy, entered the Dominican order. He was said to be a good orator.

Deer creek runs into the Ohio above the town—two wooden bridges lead over it. This brook was very inconsiderable, and could be leaped over, but it was evident from its steep shores that it swelled sometimes to a great height. On the other side of this creek is the highest hill in the vicinity. From its summit there is a delightful prospect over the city and valley, the centre of which it occupies. This view, even in Europe, would be considered as very handsome. I found on the top a great quantity of reddish limestone with shells, an evident proof that this part of the country was formerly covered by the sea. Among the gentlemen who favoured me with their visits, I remember a General Neville, from Pittsburgh, whose father had been adjutant to General La Fayette during the revolutionary war. Mr. Symmes,[II.25] brother of Captain Symmes, author of the theory that our planet is hollow and inhabited, drew very well, and had collected the likenesses of all the persons visiting Cincinnati who had interested him: he had the kindness to include my portrait in his collection. Some of these gentlemen conducted me to see the remains of Indian antiquities which are yet existing, but which could scarcely be recognized. We ascended an Indian mound, which is about thirty feet high, situated in a garden. One part of it had been cut off, but nothing being found in it, they began to plant it with trees. I had resolved on travelling in the interior of the state of Ohio, in order to convince myself of the condition of this country, which has been inhabited but thirty years by a white population. I therefore renounced the comfortable travelling on the Ohio for the inconvenient passage by land. To be enabled to travel at my leisure, I hired a carriage with four horses, at six dollars per day, and left Cincinnati on the 3rd of May, at eleven o’clock, A. M. We rode that day twenty-one miles, to the lodgings of the governor, Mr. Morrow, to whom I had letters from Governor Johnson, of New Orleans. The road led through a hilly and well-cultivated country. The fields separated by worm fences adjoin each other, and contain good dwelling-houses and barns. Their extensive orchards mostly contain apple and peach trees. I had not seen before any place in the United States in so high a state of cultivation. But alas! the rain had made the roads so muddy, that it was with difficulty we proceeded. Fourteen miles from Cincinnati we reached a little country town, Montgomery, of very good appearance, surrounded with handsome fields. A few years past there were nothing but woods here, as the roots which still exist bear testimony. They cultivate Indian corn and wheat, which is said to succeed better here than in the state of Indiana. The dwelling of the governor consists of a plain frame house, situated on a little elevation not far from the shore of the little Miami, and is entirely surrounded by fields. The business of the state calls him once a month to Columbus, the seat of government, and the remainder of his time he passes at his country-seat, occupied with farming, a faithful copy of an ancient Cincinnatus; he was engaged at our arrival in cutting a wagon pole, but he immediately stopt his work to give us a hearty welcome. He appeared to be about fifty years of age; is not tall, but thin and strong, and has an expressive physiognomy, with dark and animated eyes. He is a native of Pennsylvania, and was one of the first settlers in the state of Ohio. He offered us a night’s lodging at his house, which invitation we accepted very thankfully. When seated round the chimney fire in the evening, he related to us a great many of the dangers and difficulties the first settlers had to contend with. They suffered mostly from the Delawares, the Indians then living there. They had to place their houses in a state of defence. There are at present scarcely any Indians in the state of Ohio, and it is not now necessary for the inhabitants to guard their crops and cattle, or to tremble for their lives. The governor told us that the increase of population in the state of Ohio was almost incredible. In the year 1800, it amounted to two hundred thousand inhabitants, in 1810, between four and five hundred thousand, in 1820, about eight hundred thousand, and it is to be expected that at the next census of 1830, it will pass one million. Very few of the settlers brought any thing with them, it was therefore necessary that they should do every thing by their industry and exertion. The state had not yet been able to undertake any public works, roads, &c. The two canals which were constructing, were the first great work which they had attempted. We spent our evening with the governor and his lady. Their children are settled, and they have with them only a couple of grandchildren. When we took our seats at supper, the governor made a prayer. There was a bible and several religious books lying on the table. After breakfasting with our hospitable host, we took our leave at nine o’clock, and rode fifteen miles to Union Village, a settlement of the Shakers. The road was again hilly, and the country as well cultivated as that we saw yesterday; we passed through a country town of good appearance, Lebanon, which lies only four miles from the Shaker Village.

Towards three o’clock, P. M. we reached Union Village, and as the Shakers do not allow any taverns nor public houses, we were received with great hospitality into one of their private dwellings; we had a clean and very nice apartment. Soon after our arrival, we were visited by a great number of the brothers, who looked at us in a very scrutinizing manner, and asked us a great many questions. The inquisitiveness of these people resembles very much that of the monks, to whom they bear a strong resemblance. I remarked among them two old persons named M‘Naman and Houston, on account of their sensible conversation; they had formerly been Presbyterian clergymen, and are now a sort of church-wardens to the congregation. This sect consists of six hundred members, and is of more recent origin than the one in the state of New York, containing mostly people of limited fortune. It had to contend in the commencement with great difficulties, and was not in so flourishing a condition as the one in New Lebanon. The produce of their labours is scarcely sufficient for their wants, they have therefore not been able as yet to establish stores, which are so productive to their fellow believers in New Lebanon. Their houses are good and clean, they are almost all of brick, and distant from each other. Each house has a stone staircase leading to two doors, separated only by a window. The right one is for the men, and the left for the females or sisters, and so the right side of the house is destined for the brothers and the left for the sisters. In the rear of the dwelling-houses, some of which contain sixty members, there is a separate building for the kitchen and dining-room, and for the workshops. The houses are surrounded with sods, over these boards are laid leading to the pumps, stables, wash-houses, &c.; along the side-walk and the road through the village, there are also boards for the pedestrian. At six o’clock in the evening, the members take supper in the adjacent refectories; I was permitted to look at them. Two long tables were covered on each side of the room, behind the tables were benches, in the midst of the room was a cupboard. At a signal given with a horn, the brothers entered the door to the right, and the sisters the one to the left, marching two and two to the table. The sisters in waiting, to the number of six, came at the same time from the kitchen and ranged themselves in one file opposite the table of the sisters. After which they all fell on their knees making a silent prayer, then arose, took hold of the benches behind them, sat down and took their meal in the greatest silence. I was told this manner was observed at all their daily meals. They eat bread, butter and cakes, and drank tea. Each member found his cup filled before him—the serving sisters filling them when required. One of the sisters was standing at the cupboard to pour out the tea—the meal was very short, the whole society rose at once, the benches were put back, they fell again on their knees, rose again, and wheeling to the right, left the room with a quick step. I remarked among the females some very pretty faces, but they were all without exception of a pale and sickly hue. They were disfigured by their ugly costume, which consists of a white starched bonnet. The men likewise had bad complexions. During the whole evening I was visited by the brothers, by whom I was completely examined; among them were two Frenchmen of the name of Conchon, father and son, who told me they were very well satisfied. The son had perfectly adopted the humble manner of the monks, did not open his eyes, and in explaining the principles of their sect according to the bible, he maintained that they were the only Christian sect who followed the true spirit of the gospel. Respecting their political regulations, they are entirely founded on perfect community of goods, and renunciation of all private property; they live in a perfect equality. It will be found that Mr. Owen has borrowed the greater part of the laws of his new social system from the Shakers, with this difference, that the Shakers are united by the tie of religion, and the hope of a better life, which is entirely disbelieved by Owen.

It is known that a part of the worship of the believers in mother Ann Lee, as the Shakers call themselves, consists in dancing. The bible gives us several examples of worship by dancing—king David danced before the ark. Mother Ann Lee, founder of this sect, taught that God should not only be worshipped with the tongue but with the whole body, and in consequence she introduced jumping and dancing in her divine service. This is practised publicly in church, accompanied by the singing of hymns composed for the purpose—strangers are admitted as spectators. Their church consists of a plain and spacious room, but not near so large as the church at New Lebanon. On the mornings and evenings during the week, there are private dancing prayers in the dwelling houses. The walls of the rooms of the brothers and sisters consists of large folding doors, which, when opened, form with the corridor one large room, in which they dance and jump. Our presence putting them under some restraint, there was no dancing in the evening, which was a great disappointment to us. Delicacy prevented my inquiring after the dance. At nine o’clock in the evening every one retired. I was shown to a very good and clean room.

The following day, 5th May, several brothers called upon me. Among them was a German, the only one belonging to this sect. His name was Christian Bockholder, a native of Neuwied on the Rhine. He is a small, weakly man, who was converted to this sect but six years ago, and who seemed much pleased, particularly with the good order, tranquillity, and peace, which reigns among them; but he observed that this life not suiting every one, it was necessary to try it carefully before becoming a member; he had lived six months among them before being received. Finally he remarked, that notwithstanding every one was free to leave the society when he thought proper, it would be very wrong to do so, as when once accustomed to it he would be utterly unfit for the world. At nine o’clock, when we left Union Village, they, to our surprise, refused to receive either pay or presents, and nothing now remained but to return verbal thanks for their hospitality, after which we parted. We rode twenty-six miles to Xenia, a small country town, where we arrived after five o’clock, P. M.

We rode through a very fine and cultivated country, which originally consisted of woods. We saw at least every five hundred paces with an habitation or some fields. Those forests which still remain, are chiefly composed of oak, ash, sugar-maple, plane, shumac, and dogwood trees; the latter bears handsome white flowers. I did not find the vegetation so much advanced as in the states of Indiana and Kentucky. We suffered very much from the bad roads, a greater part of which were log causeways. I walked a great part of the way. We forded several little rivulets and creeks, among them the Little Miami; we found a tree laid across without a rail, intended as a bridge. At several of these we saw some flour and saw-mills, and passed several small and new settlements, with neat brick houses and large barns. The handsomest is Bellbrook. Xenia, where we found a good tavern, is situated very agreeably. The streets are large, and cross each other at right angles: most of the houses are of brick, and are situated at a certain distance from each other. The number of inhabitants is about eight hundred, who farm and carry on different trades. This little place has two printing-offices, a Latin school, and several stores. In the centre of the town is the court-house, built of brick. Xenia is the chief town of Green county. Next to it is a massive jail. In an excursion we made the following day, May 6th, I remarked one of the machines for preparing flax, of which I bought a copyright at the patent-office in Washington. It was worked by a single horse, and did the work of five men, besides which the flax does not require any rotting. After nine o’clock we departed, and rode eighteen miles to Springfield. We stopped on our way at a small village, Yellow Springs, to see the spring from which this place derives its name. The village occupies a woody elevation on the shore of the Little Miami, rushing through a deep rocky valley. The place is small, and was bought by a society of twelve gentlemen, under the direction of Mr. Lowndes, a friend of Mr. M‘Clure. These gentlemen intended to found a sect upon Owen’s system; there had been one established here previously, but dissolved on account of the majority of them being worthless creatures, who had brought neither capital, nor inclination to work. Mr. Lowndes, whose acquaintance I made, said that he expected new and better members. The locality is healthy and favourable for such an establishment. The spring originates in a limestone rock, the water has a little taste of iron, and deposits a great quantity of ochre, from which it takes its name. The spring is said to give one hundred and ten gallons of water per minute, which is received in a basin, surrounded with cedar trees. The yellow stream which comes from the basin, runs a short distance over a bed of limestone and is afterwards precipitated into the valley. These limestone rocks form very singular figures on the edge of this valley; the detached pieces resemble the Devil’s Wall of the Hartz.

They had no baths fitted up, as yet there is only a shower-bath. The former will most probably be established, when it becomes a place of public resort. Mr. Lowndes told me that it was their intention to take more water in, and to have some walks established in the vicinity, to which the surrounding country is very favourable. Following Mr. Lowndes’ advice, we took a roundabout way of one mile and rode to a saw-mill called Patterson’s mill, to see the lesser falls of the Little Miami. I had no reason to repent it, as I was richly rewarded with one of the finest prospects I ever beheld. The Little Miami forces itself for the length of a mile with most singular windings through a rocky dale at least fifty feet deep, which in many places is but eighteen feet wide, it forms little cataracts, and suddenly disappears for a short distance. Large cedar trees shade this precipice, which makes it very gloomy, and contribute in a great measure to the peculiarity of this imposing scene of nature. The rocks are very steep, and are connected by a bridge, on which one looks from the dizzy precipice into a real abyss. Following a narrow path, I went down to the water and found myself almost in obscurity. I felt entirely separated from the world, and was scarcely able to preserve the consciousness of my own existence. I experienced a peculiar feeling on again perceiving the day-light. Following the course of the rushing waters I reached Patterson’s saw-mill, where the men working for their daily bread, recalled me to human life. Near the saw-mill a dam forms an artificial waterfall, making a very handsome effect, being about twenty feet high. The saw-mill has a horizontal water-mill of the same description as those which I had previously seen in the United States. With a strong fall of water these wheels have more effect, and are cheaper than those used in other countries. The road from the mill to Springfield was bad, mostly by causeways, and I was again compelled to walk a greater part of the way. Springfield is the chief town of Clark county, and lies partly at the foot of a hill and partly upon it, at the confluence of two creeks, the shores are so marshy that I believe it would be possible to cut turf there. The town contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, nearly all the houses are built of brick, the streets are wide and right-angled, they are not paved; the principal street has a side-walk of brick. In the centre of this little town is a court-house built of brick, and having the form of an octagon; next to it stands a jail. The place is surrounded with orchards, meadows and well cultivated fenced fields. A chain of hills end in a point behind the town, not far from the confluence of both creeks. On this point are four insulated hills, which are said to be Indian mounds, three stand on the edge of one of the creeks, and at some distance is the fourth, which is quite detached from the others. The latter is the highest, its elevation is more than one hundred feet above the level of the valley; from this hill the eye commands a view over Springfield, the whole surrounding valley, the union of both valleys and the woody heights encircling the whole, there are clusters of blooming and high black thorn bushes growing in the meadows, which produce a good effect. This place seems to be opulent, it contains several good stores, and depends chiefly on the breeding of cattle and agriculture. We were very comfortably lodged at the inn at which we stopped.

On the 7th of May, at nine o’clock, we left Springfield on a beautiful Sunday morning, and curiosity had assembled a crowd of people before our inn, to gaze at such wonders as we were. We went twenty-three miles on the road to Columbus, until we arrived at a single tavern, called Pike’s. The country was less cultivated than we had seen since leaving Cincinnati; we saw however, several fine orchards and fields; all the settlements are new, and the habitations mostly consist of log-houses; we met several carts filled with well-dressed country people and several of both sexes on horseback, they were all going to church at Springfield. The road was generally very bad, and over many log causeways, kept in bad order. Beyond the woods, we saw vast tracts of meadow ground, on which only a few trees could be seen, but there were very handsome black thorns in flower. On the meadows numerous cattle were grazing, we passed two with a great number of sheep, and hogs were always plenty; the breeding of cattle is carried on to a great extent; quantities of cheese and butter are made here for sale; the cattle are drove to the eastern states, or the meat is salted and sent to New Orleans. We observed a great many partridges of a large kind, which they call pheasants[II.26] here; the forests abound with wild pigeons. We reached our lodging place, Pike’s tavern, about four o’clock in the afternoon. It is situated amidst meadows[II.27] and consists of two log-houses erected close behind each other, they resemble those of the state of Georgia, differing only in being better suited for a colder climate, as the crevices are filled with clay. Our landlord only began his establishment five years ago; he came from Massachusetts. Towards evening we saw a fine drove of cattle belonging to him, and in which his fortune chiefly consisted. Next morning we left our abode where we had been better lodged than we had expected, and went twenty miles farther to Columbus. The road was worse than any I had ever met with, consisting generally of log causeways, which are badly assorted and have large holes between them. We were barbarously jolted about, and therefore I went more than half the way on foot; the soil principally consists of a black meadow ground, marshy, with little wood and less cultivated. It is said to be unwholesome during the summer; the houses are scattered and in a bad condition. At one mile from Columbus, is a small place called Franklinton, having several brick houses and a court-house. Its increase was at one time promising, but Columbus prevents its future advancement. Columbus is situated on the high left bank of the Sciota; we forded this river, which was perilous, as the water ran into our carriage; there was a wooden bridge formerly between Franklinton and Columbus, but it was broken down a year ago; trees are growing very fast in the woods in the vicinity, but the wood is without strength and becomes rotten as soon as it attains its growth, which makes it impossible to depend on the duration of wooden buildings. Columbus is the chief town of the state of Ohio, and contains about one thousand eight hundred inhabitants, and three churches; one Presbyterian, one Lutheran, and one Methodist. In the year 1812, there were nothing but forests, and in the same year the lots of the city with the wood were sold, upon which they immediately commenced building. It is astonishing how this place has since increased, and still continues to improve—the streets are wide, and cross each other at right angles. The principal street running parallel with the Sciota, is about one hundred feet wide, having side-walks, and a considerable number of brick houses—the adjoining streets are not yet much occupied. In building the principal streets, one of the Indian mounds has been opened, and nearly destroyed. A great number of human bones were found, remains of urns, and an owl carved in stone, but very clumsy; with the clay of which the mound was made, bricks were burned which served for the construction of the state-house; this building contains the offices of the state, and the United States court. These three buildings stand near each other at one end of the principal street, each of them having two stories—the state-house as well as the court, are situated at the sides of these long offices, which gives them the appearance of barracks; they have steeples and galleries, from which the course of the Sciota, receiving a mile above the town the Whetstone river, can be followed with the eye to a great distance over the fertile plain on the right shore of the Sciota, where Franklinton is situated, and is a very handsome sight. The Sciota originates in the state of Ohio, runs one hundred and eighty-two miles, and flows in the Ohio between Portsmouth and Alexandria, its mouth is one hundred and fifty yards wide; it is navigable one hundred and thirty miles and upwards. The Whetstone, which it receives above Columbus, is at certain times navigable for nine miles. About five miles above Columbus, on the left shore of the Sciota, is a quarry of white sandstone, which resembles marble until polished, after which it turns grey. Columbus contains three printing-offices, each of which issues a newspaper. There are also bookstores, one of them belongs to Mr. Kilbourn, author of the Ohio Gazetteer; this book having been of great use to me, during my journey through this state, I wished to see the author of so useful a work, an attention with which he appeared much pleased. Respecting the three newspapers, I found their number great for so small a place, but I heard that only one, which is in some measure the official paper of the state, was much read, and had many subscribers; the other two having but fifty, and could only maintain themselves by advertisements, &c. I met in Columbus with a Mr. Doherty, whose acquaintance I had made in Cincinnati, and who conducted me to see the town. There is nothing remarkable in the public buildings above mentioned; the state penitentiary interested me much more; it is well situated, appears to be well arranged, and contains one hundred and fifty-two convicts; the principal building is on a rising ground; in the rear are several yards where the workshops of the prisoners are situated, they are clothed in a dress part grey and part white, and sleep two together, in airy but narrow cells, on straw mattresses; during the day they are employed in the workshops, or in the work of the house. They have a large refectory, where their meals, consisting of meat and vegetables are served up in wooden plates; each prisoner is obliged to work at the trade which he understands, and he who is acquainted with none is obliged to learn one, being permitted to choose which he prefers. All the clothing used in the house, as well as the cotton cloth, are made by the prisoners, who receive no payment; there is also a wheelwright shop in operation, as well as blacksmiths, coopers, cabinet-makers, comb-makers, saddlers, and gunsmiths, who make very good rifles: the articles manufactured by the coopers consist chiefly of buckets and barrels, made of white and red cedar wood; there is a store attached to the prison, where all these articles are exposed for sale. I understand that the prison maintains itself, and causes but a trifling expense to the state. The favourite solitary confinement in dark and subterraneous cells is used as a capital punishment. A couple of prisoners who had tried to escape and were retaken, wore an iron collar with a horn attached to it; the prison has been in use ten years, during which time, ten men only had escaped, nearly all of whom had been retaken: the prisoners are so well treated, that I was assured that several of them stole again, after having served their time out, in order to return to their prison. It is worthy of notice that during ten years, two white females only, were committed to this prison; the yards are surrounded by a large and high wall, where sentries keep watch day and night with loaded muskets. We left Columbus on the 9th of May, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode to Circleville, a distance of twenty-six miles. The road passes along the left shore of the Sciota, through a woody and rather uncultivated country, two days of rain had softened the ground considerably; fortunately we met with very few log causeways; we forded two small rivers which flow into the Sciota, called Big-Belly creek, and Lower Walnut creek. We passed a small place, Bloomfield, consisting of small frame houses, and reached Circleville towards two o’clock, P. M. Circleville is built in one of the old Indian forts, whose origin, as well as that of the nation which erected it, is buried in utter darkness. The circular part immediately joins the square, and communicates with it by means of a single outlet. The square fort has eight outlets, and in the rear of each of them there is a little mound, which appears to have served as traverses for the defence of the entries; the round fort has two parallel ramparts separated by a ditch. The quadrangular fort has but a single one, where there are no traces of a trench; the diameter of the circular fort, taken between the exterior ramparts, is one hundred and ninety-six rods; both of them are twenty feet high, taken from the base of the ditch; the inner one is filled up, and the exterior is dug from the ground; the fortress consists of clay, the latter of sand and flintstone; the rampart of the square fort is ten feet higher, and of clay; the length of one side of the square is fifty-four rods; the town, containing six hundred inhabitants, is for the greatest part built inside of the round and square fort, of which it occupies the fourth part of the surface. In its centre is a round space, in the midst of which stands a court-house of brick in the shape of an octagon. Circleville is the chief town of Pickaway county. From this circular place four principal streets run towards the north, south, east, and west; in order to open them, the double round wall has unfortunately been partly demolished; the selfishness of the inhabitants goes so far that they take the clay of the inner wall and the square fort to burn bricks of it; this little town was founded in 1812, at the same time with Columbus, but has not increased much since; the houses are generally of wood. The prison alone is of solid construction, built of free-stone.

On the outside of the circular fort, on the hill opposite the quadrangular fort, is another hill ninety feet high, that commands all the neighbouring parts, which appear to have been a burying-ground—a great number of human skeletons of all sizes having been found there; they were all in a horizontal position, the heads being turned towards the centre of the hill. With the skeletons were several stone axes, and oval, polished black stones, having a hole in their centre, probably to fix them on a string, to be worn as ornaments or talismans.

In the centre of the circular fort, where the court-house now stands, there was formerly another hill, on the eastern side of which are the remains of a semicircular pavement, made of pebble-stones, the same which are found in the bed of the Sciota; the top of the hill is of thirty feet diameter, and has a flight of steps leading to it; two human skeletons were found there. At the natural level of the ground a great number of stone arrow-heads, which were so strong that they must have belonged to lances. A great quantity of wood ashes and hard burnt bricks induce the belief that the bodies were burnt; there was a looking-glass made of mica membranacea. More minute details of these antiquities, as well as all the others which have been found in this state, are described in Mr. Caleb Atwater’s Archaelogia Americana. I paid a visit to this gentleman, who resides here; he is a great antiquarian, and exists more in the antiquities of Ohio, than in the present world. I spent the evening with this interesting man, and was very agreeably entertained; he possesses a collection of objects which were found in different mounds; it contains fragments of urns, arrow-heads of a large size, battle-axes made of flintstone, and several human bones. Mr. Atwater likewise possesses a very handsome collection of minerals, among which I found some interesting petrifactions of wood and plants, in particular, the whortleberry plant. He offered to send to the university of Jena a collection of these petrifactions which are found near Zanesville, in this state, and for which he desired to obtain some German minerals. I must not omit to mention, that on the hill, outside of the circular fort, is a small wooden house nearly destroyed by storms, which commands a view of all the surrounding country. It had been a house of ill fame, but being visited one night by a violent storm, it was abandoned by its inhabitants, to the great edification of the whole town.

The 10th of May we rode nineteen miles, from Circleville to Chillicothe, formerly the capital of Ohio, situated on the right shore of the Sciota. Our way led us through a handsome and very well cultivated country; we saw fine fields, good dwelling-houses, orchards, and gardens; also several mills, turned by the water of the Sciota, and several other little creeks; some of these mills are at the same time fulling, flour, and saw-mills.

The forests are chiefly of sugar maple, plane, and different kinds of nut trees: the road was tolerably good, the weather fine and warm; there is a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Sciota not far from Chillicothe; this bridge runs at least five hundred paces on piers, over a meadow which is sometimes inundated by the Sciota. We were comfortably lodged at Watson’s hotel, in Chillicothe. This town, like Philadelphia, lies between two rivers—the Sciota may be considered as the Delaware, and Paint creek rivulet takes place of the Schuylkill: the streets are large, at right angles, and without pavement, but have side-walks: a great part of the houses are built of brick; there are several fine stores. Over the whole prosperity and liveliness appears to reign. Chillicothe is the chief town of Ross county; it contains a court-house, built of freestone, which, at the time it was the seat of the state government, was used for the senate house; the representatives met in the building now used for the court offices: there is also in this city a jail, and a market-house of brick. I received visits from several of the most distinguished inhabitants, among them was a lawyer, Mr. Leonard, Dr. Vethake and Colonel King, son of the celebrated Rufus King, the American minister to London, and son-in-law of the former governor of this state, Mr. Worthington: the latter lived at a country-seat two miles from Chillicothe, where he enjoyed his rents and the revenue of his considerable property, in the midst of an amiable family and an agreeable old age, free from cares. His son-in-law invited us to his father’s house; we accepted his invitation and rode in Messrs. Leonard and Vethake’s company, towards evening, to the country-seat; our road led us through a beautiful and well cultivated valley, near a little Indian mound, and through a forest of beach, maple, chesnut and hickory trees; finally we rode through handsome fields, where here and there we saw groups of white thorn. The governor’s house is surrounded with Lombardy poplars; it is constructed in the style of an Italian villa, of free stone, with stone steps on the exterior, is two stories high, and has two wings, having a court in front of the centre building containing honeysuckles and roses: on one side of the house is a terrace with flowers and kitchen vegetables; this garden was arranged by German gardeners who keep it in very good order: behind the house are large clover fields, and to the right the farm buildings. Governor Worthington occupies himself with the raising of cattle, particularly sheep; he had a flock of one hundred and fifty merinos. I understood that they were numerous in the state of Ohio. Colonel King and his highly accomplished lady, came to meet us; the governor and his lady soon appeared: he has travelled a great deal, has been a long time in public offices, and was for several years a member of the United States’ senate; his eldest son was travelling in Europe, another son was in the military academy at West Point. He has ten children, on whom he expended a great deal for their education; the evening passed rapidly in instructive and interesting conversation, the hospitable governor insisted on our passing the night at his house; the house is very commodious, the furniture plain, but testifies the good taste and easy circumstances of the owner. I arose early next morning and took a walk in the governor’s garden, I ascended to a platform on the roof to take a view of the surrounding lands, but there is as yet nothing but woods covering the greater part of the country. Fires, which were burning in some places, were proofs, that new settlers were clearing the woods; from this platform the governor can overlook the greater part of his property, containing twenty-five thousand acres of land; by this means he has the greater part of his workmen under his control; the ground consists of low hills, and it is only towards the east in the direction of Zanesville, that more considerable elevations are perceived. I took breakfast with the worthy governor and his family, and found here, as at Governor Morrow’s, that the father of the family, observed the laudable custom of making a prayer before sitting down. After breakfast we took leave of this respectable family, whose acquaintance I consider as one of the most interesting I made in the United States, and returned to town. Chillicothe contains from two to three thousand inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by farming, raising of cattle and retail commerce; they had also commenced establishing woollen factories, and possessed a bank; it was formerly a branch of the United States Bank, but doing too little business, was suppressed by the mother bank in Philadelphia. We visited two churches, one Methodist and one Episcopalian, the former was rather large, both of them were very plain and contained nothing worthy of remark. We paid a visit to Mr. Hufnagel, a native of Würzburg, an elderly man who had experienced misfortune, and who is now established as a butcher and trader in cattle, and finds himself in easy circumstances; he appeared to be very much delighted at my visit, and received us very heartily in his well arranged house, situated in an orchard. Between two and three o’clock, the stage took us to Colonel King’s house, where we dined, in order to drive us eighteen miles to Tarleton; we took leave of him with grateful hearts; the road ran through a well cultivated country, which is very hilly and presents several picturesque situations; ten miles from Chillicothe on a hill, is a small village, Kingston, with farms of a good appearance, and several mills. Towards sunset we reached Tarleton, a handsome little spot of about twenty houses, and took our lodgings at a very good tavern, kept by a Pennsylvanian German. I had lost my pocket-book, probably by one of the hard jolts which our stage had received; it contained several papers of importance. It was found one mile from Chillicothe, and by its contents I was known to be the owner; a man set out in the night to bring it to me; at midnight this man arrived in Tarleton, had me called up, and safely returned me my pocket-book. I was so much delighted to recover it, that I expressed my thankfulness in every way I could. On the 12th of May, we left Tarleton at two o’clock in the morning, and rode to New Lancaster, which is sixteen miles; we arrived between seven and eight o’clock, and took our lodgings at Steinman’s hotel; the mail stage which went that day to Zanesville, had only two horses and took no passengers, I therefore resolved to stay until the following day, as it was said there would be a stage with four horses, and I found no cause to repent it. New Lancaster has its name from the city of Lancaster in Pennsylvania, and was founded by Pennsylvanian Germans, who were joined by many German emigrants, particularly Wurtembergers, and some Switzers, all of whom were pleased with the good climate, the fertile soil, which requires but little cultivation and manure, and above all, by the cheap living and profitable earnings. New Lancaster is the principal town of Fairfield county, and is handsomely situated on the side of a hill on the Hockhocking river, not far distant from its source; it contains nearly two thousand inhabitants, living by retail commerce, farming, and cattle raising. Since 1822, the culture of tobacco has also been introduced; this tobacco is called yellow, and is esteemed; I understand that it sells very well in Holland. The streets of the town are wide and rectangular; the court-house is a brick building; there is also a market-house of brick, and above it a lodge for freemasons. Shortly after my arrival, I received the visits of several of the German and half German inhabitants, among the latter I remarked Judge Dietrich, a native of Philadelphia, an agreeable, plain and well-informed man; he offered to be my guide through the town, which I thankfully accepted. He introduced me to several of the merchants, whose well-furnished stores I visited. Such a store in America contains a great variety of articles: all kinds of dry-goods, porcelain, earthenware, glasses, stationary, implements of husbandry, iron wares, saddlery, and spirits; the latter are only by wholesale; also school-books, bibles, and psalm-books. I observed in almost all the cities in the state of Ohio, that German translations were affixed to all the signs over the stores, in large golden letters, which is not only a proof that a great many Germans inhabit the state, but also that they are good customers. We saw an English and German printing-office; the latter was under the direction of a German, Mr. Herrman, who publishes a German newspaper under the title of Der Ohio Adler,[II.28] the English printing-office likewise publishes a paper; the type for the German paper is from the foundry in Philadelphia, and cannot be said to be elegant; it is true there is generally but little elegance to be observed in German type. I read in Mr. Herrman’s office about twelve different German papers, published in the United States; they were mostly written in a corrupted German; the only well written one, was edited in Philadelphia, by Mr. Ritter.

Judge Dietrich conducted me to a cloth manufactory belonging to Mr. Risey, whose machinery is moved by the waters of the Hockhocking. It was of recent date, and furnished cloth of middling quality; the want of a sufficient quantity of water made it necessary to divide the manufactory into different parts, at different situations; one was occupied by the machines for carding wool, and some by looms; the wool was spun by country women. We visited the county jail, a brick building, the interior has partitions made of strong beams, separating obscure cells; a dark and miserable hole called the dungeon, was destined for solitary confinement; there was but a single prisoner, and for debt. Mr. Dietrich introduced me to a Mr. Sherman, judge of the supreme court, who is one of the most respectable inhabitants of the place. He invited me to tea, and I met with a very agreeable society; we all took a walk to Mount Pleasant, two miles from town, which on three sides presents steep cliffs; this mountain is only accessible from one side, through a forest and hollow between rocks. From the top of the mountain the town seems to lay below your feet, and is surrounded with fenced fields; this point being one of the highest in this hilly country, the prospect would be very handsome if the eye could perceive any thing but woods. Next morning some Swabian farmers came to see me; I was sitting at my writing-table when they entered; they sat down without taking off their hats, and conversed very sensibly; I understood from them that they were very much pleased with the country, and that they felt conscious of being honest and useful men. At eight o’clock we went into the mail stage, an uncomfortable box, in which we rode thirty-six miles to Zanesville, on a rough road with many causeways leading through a hilly region, so that we had to stop at least forty times. It was very warm and dusty during the day; the land was less fertile than what we had previously seen in the state of Ohio, containing more clay and sand; we arrived in the district of the coal and salt mines, both of which articles are found in the vicinity of Zanesville. We passed between New Lancaster and Zanesville the insignificant places of Rush-hill, Somerset, Union town, and Jonathan’s creek; Rush-hill is in a pretty situation on Rush-creek, a strong rivulet which works several mills; it consists of about thirty houses, some of them of brick. Somerset, half way from New Lancaster to Zanesville, contains four hundred inhabitants, it is on an elevated situation and is the chief town of Perry county. Jonathan’s creek has given its name to the little village situated on both of its shores; the true name of this creek is Maxahala; it is very convenient for mills. We met with two herds of beautiful cattle, which had been brought from Chillicothe, and were driving to the eastern seaports for sale; towards six o’clock we arrived in a well-cultivated district, our road led us through orchards and neat houses; finally we arrived at Putnam, a little place situated on the right shore of the Muskingum, opposite Zanesville. We crossed the river by a covered wooden bridge, resting on five stone piers. The Muskingum is one of the most considerable rivers in the state of Ohio, it begins in the most northern part, runs in a southerly direction, waters several counties, and empties by a mouth twenty-five yards broad, into the Ohio at Marietta; it is navigable from Zanesville upwards; below, the mill-dams prevent the navigation. On account of the new canal which is to unite the Ohio with Lake Erie, on which they were working, though slowly, for want of funds, the navigation on this river will cease.

In Zanesville we took good lodgings at Hughes’ hotel; there must be a great number of travellers, as in the principal street we could count seven other taverns. Zanesville contains three thousand inhabitants: its streets are large and straight, a great number of brick houses, upwards of twenty stores, two printing-offices, and two glass-houses, where common window-glass and bottles are manufactured, which are well paid for in the vicinity; this town has been for some time the chief town of the state of Ohio, and is now the principal place of Muskingum county; the court-house is a large brick building, in front of it was erected a triumphal arch in honour of General La Fayette, but he did not pass here. We returned in the evening over the bridge to Putnam, to deliver letters to Mr. Ebenezer Buckingham. On this occasion I found that the length of this bridge was about two hundred and seventy-seven ordinary paces; it is divided in two parts, the wagons keeping the right side. Putnam consists of a single street, running along the river, behind which is a rocky elevation; the street afterwards forms an angle, leaving the river and looses itself in a picturesque valley between fields and orchards. This place has six hundred inhabitants, a great many brick houses, and presents a flourishing appearance. Mr. Buckingham is one of the most respectable inhabitants, and has a large store in which he keeps all articles that may be required here; he received us in his store, and gave us much information relative to Zanesville, Putnam and its vicinity; the ground is not so fertile here as in other parts of the state, but kind Providence has indemnified them in some measure with salt, and coal-mines; the salt springs were previously known to the Indians, but not used by them. When the country became inhabited by a white population, they bored to the depth of two hundred feet and found abundant salt springs, some of them were deeper; the openings being made larger, walled cisterns were fixed to collect the running water. The salt is boiled in large kettles, after which it is made to run over flat reservoirs, where it is cooled, and the salt separated; this is the same method which is followed in England, and which I had seen in the salt works of Northwich; having heard this description, and the springs being four miles distant, I gave up the idea of visiting them. A great many petrifactions and impressions of plants are found here, some of which I had seen at Mr. Atwater’s, in Circleville.

On the next day, Mr. Buckingham came for me, to introduce me to his family, consisting of his wife and three daughters, very good children; the eldest was nine years old, his only son was a cadet in the military school at West Point. The house in which he resides at Putnam is at some distance from his store, is two stories high, built of brick with a stone porch; in front of the house is a space planted with trees and flowers separated from the street by an iron railing with large stone posts. In the rear of the house is a kitchen garden and orchard; the house is very convenient and furnished with taste and well-directed luxury. All this was interesting to me, because I heard from Mr. Buckingham that twenty-nine years since, he emigrated as a poor man from the state of New York to that wild country, and on the spot where his property now stands he had himself felled the trees, and built a log-house in which he lived several years; he owes his welfare to his integrity, his industry, and economy. In his business, he informed me money was a rare thing, which he seldom saw; the greatest number of persons who buy articles from his store, pay for them in corn, beef, lard, corn meal, vegetables, fruits, &c. This is, however, the case with most of the stores in the western states, and give the merchants considerable trouble to sell them. I accompanied Mr. Buckingham and family to the Presbyterian church in Zanesville, a large brick building, which was very full and very warm. I understood very little of the sermon; the singing was excellent, without organ or any musical accompaniment. In the centre of the church was a long table, as a greater part of the congregation were communicants. Mr. Buckingham and family partook of this religious rite. I took a walk through the town, and visited a second bridge crossing the Muskingum, situated above the first; this bridge is more ancient than the first, and likewise rests on five stone piers; it is covered and made of wood, but badly constructed and in a decayed condition. It does not run in a straight line, but forms an obtuse angle, in order to reach a point of land which is produced by the union of the Licking with the Muskingum, from this angle of the bridge, another begins, which goes towards the point of land; this is not roofed; this bridge leads to the Newark road, meanwhile the covered branch is directed to the New Lancaster road. Since the construction of the better bridge below, the older one is very little used. The prospect from it over the Muskingum and Licking is very handsome. Both of them have, not far from their junction, high dams forming waterfalls, and on all the four shores mills for flour, oil and sawing. The Licking begins at the junction of three little rivers in Licking county, and has some falls above, where it unites with the Muskingum, which have been used for mills. At two o’clock we returned to our mail stage; the weather being very hot, we rode but twelve miles, to an insulated house called Dugan’s tavern, where we arrived between five and six o’clock, and met with tolerably good quarters. The country is woody and very hilly, the road was so bad that we had to stop frequently, and for this reason I again went the greatest part of the road on foot, in spite of the heat and dust; the next day we travelled in the same manner to Fairview, forty-eight miles distant, along a very hilly country, bad road, rocks, causeways, and so many rapid declivities, that we had to stop thirty times. We passed through Salt creek, Cambridge, Washington, and Frankfort. Salt creek lies on a small river of the same name, over which there is a bridge. Cambridge is a flourishing place of about seventy houses, on a height situated on Will’s creek, which is crossed by a plain wooden bridge of one hundred and seventy-five yards, which passes over a low meadow; this town is the chief place in Gurnsey county, and contains a court-house and several stores. We arrived on a court day, and the tavern was filled with lawyers. Will’s creek runs through many windings, about one hundred and fifty miles, and flows into the Muskingum; it is in some seasons navigable to Cambridge, in boats of seventy-five feet length. Washington and Frankfort are small places, of which nothing can be said. On the road, especially near dwelling houses, were several large open buildings constructed with beams to dry the yellow tobacco. The country is mostly covered with woods. The ground consists of yellow and red clay, &c.

Fairview, which we reached towards five o’clock in the evening, is a little place containing about twenty houses, most of them frame; it is situated on an elevation commanding an extensive prospect, whence it derives its name. We met here with part of the great national road which leads from Washington city to Wheeling, and is to be continued as far as St. Louis. It is a turnpike road, dug out six inches deep, and is covered six inches thick with small stones, having a ditch on each side; they were working slowly at it: Fairview is now at the end of the road.

On the 16th of May we left Fairview, in a beautiful starlight and warm night, and continued our journey sixty miles to Washington in Pennsylvania. The country was hilly. The two last villages we passed in the state of Ohio, were Morristown and St. Clairsville. Both places are small, but well situated on elevations, and surrounded with fields and orchards. St. Clairsville is the chief town of Bellmont county; it contains a court-house, jail, market-house, and printing-office, which issues a newspaper; also several stores. The houses are merely of wood. The nearer we approached to the Ohio, the handsomer was the country. Finally, we came to a romantic dale, through which flows in a serpentine direction a rivulet called Indian Wheeling, which joins the Ohio opposite Wheeling. We frequently rode along the new national turnpike road, on which they were working rapidly. This road carefully avoids the numerous hills, cuts through several of them, and has, where it is requisite, solid stone bridges. It was said that it would be finished in the autumn. When arrived at the Ohio, which runs between hilly shores, partly covered with woods, partly cultivated, twenty-nine miles from Fairview, we crossed over the river and arrived at a considerable woody island, and crossed the left arm in a horse-boat, which took us to Wheeling, a town containing two thousand inhabitants, built on a terrace along a steep and high hill. Thus we left the state of Ohio, an important and daily increasing state, which, with the exception of the bad roads, had pleased me very much. We entered the state of Virginia, of which a part runs like a wedge between the states of Pennsylvania and Ohio. In Wheeling we took the stage on the great national road to Washington in Pennsylvania, which is twenty-nine miles distant. We soon ascended a high mountain, from the top of which we could discover on one side the beautiful valley of the Ohio, the woody mountains bordering the valley, and the town of Wheeling with its orchards and gardens on the other; a deep valley along which the Wheeling creek runs in a picturesque manner. The national road gradually descends this steep hill, forming the western border of the valley, continues in it and goes over a handsome stone bridge across Wheeling creek. A neighbouring family who profited considerably by the construction of the national road, have erected at the bridge a monument in honour of the secretary of state, (H. Clay,) who was the chief promoter of it in congress. This monument consists, as far as I could perceive in my hurry, of a statue of liberty, coarsely sculptured in sandstone, placed on a clumsy pedestal ornamented with inscriptions and bas relief. Monuments erected to living persons have always something suspicious; they generally exhibit that vile adulation to which the Dutch give a characteristic name.[II.29] I was greatly surprised to find such sentiments in this country, and to see them tolerated. The national road, which is finished seven years ago, requires considerable repairs, or at least to be kept in better order. Since it has been finished nothing has been done to it. The tracks are deep, and the road is very rough. The stage we rode in was of the description made in the north-eastern states, which are the best and most convenient I had met with since October last year. We changed horses twice in West Alexandria and Claysville. We passed several little places through a well cultivated country, over some stone bridges of sumptuous construction. Fifteen miles from Wheeling we left the state of Virginia, and entered the state of Pennsylvania partly known to me, and which I now intended to cross from its western to its eastern extremity. We arrived at Washington at ten o’clock at night, and left there at one o’clock on the morning of the 17th of May, the weather being cloudy. Abandoning the national road, we turned to the left towards Pittsburgh, twenty-five miles from Washington. To Cannonsburg, a distance of seven miles, the road was tolerably good, but after this it became bad, and I was compelled, in conformity to my old custom, to walk a great part of the way.

To the cloudy night succeeded a fine warm morning, and a picturesque valley where handsome houses and mills cheered the spirits. The mountains are filled with coal and several openings penetrating into them, prove that this important fuel is not neglected. We finally came to the left shore of the Ohio, and before us was Pittsburgh covered by a black cloud of smoke. This city is situated at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela; both these rivers after their union form the majestic Ohio. The water of the Monongahela is much more muddy than that of the Alleghany, and both rivers are distinguished separately at a great distance. The situation of Pittsburgh, as well as the Ohio valley, resemble in some measure the environs of Liege, on the Meuse, with the exception that the mountains of the Meuse are higher than these. We passed through a little village called Birmingham, where are salt-works, a glass-house, and iron-works, and arrived at the bridge which crosses the Monongahela. This bridge is marked on the map as projected, but has been finished for six or seven years. It is of wood resting on five stone piers, and consists of six arches of very solid construction, being covered and divided in two parts. A fine of fifteen dollars is exacted of those who ride on horseback or carriage faster than a walk; there are also foot-walks. Pittsburgh contains fifteen thousand inhabitants—it has not a pleasing appearance, containing a great number of wooden buildings, all of a smoky colour from the smoke continually ascending from the numerous manufactories. Pittsburgh reminds you of an English city, and therefore is called the American Birmingham. It was nine o’clock, A. M. when we arrived, and took lodgings at the Mansion-house, kept by Colonel Ramsay, a good hotel, and a very polite landlord.

[CHAPTER XXIV.]

Pittsburgh.—Economy.—Mr. Rapp and his Society.

I was scarcely settled here before I received a visit from two German residents, Mr. Bonnhorst, a justice of the peace, and Mr. Volz, a merchant. These gentlemen accompanied me to indicate the most remarkable places and manufactures of the city.

We visited a French glass-cutter, a very skilful man, who does a good business; passed by the court-house, which is built opposite the market-house in a half circle, and stopped at the glass factory of Mr. Bakewell, in which fine flint glass is blown and ground. This crystal is as clear, and nearly as good as the English. The processes used in such a manufactory are known; but I wondered at the celerity with which the different articles are made. Glass-cutting, as is well known, is a difficult work, and requires skilful artists, which are still rare in this country, and very dear. We visited a paper manufactory belonging to Mr. Baldwin, which is arranged in the usual manner: thence we went to an eminence which overlooks the city, called Grant’s Hill, after an English General Grant, who, during the seven years’ war, was slaughtered here along with his troops, by the Indians.

The French, about the middle of the preceding century, had built a fort on the point of land, immediately at the confluence of the two rivers, called Duquesne. The English found this fortification annoying, and hence arose the occurrences which subsequently produced the seven years’ war. This place has the highest interest to every European soldier. General Grant wished to obtain possession of Fort Duquesne, and besieged it from the height which still bears his name. He however kept a miserable guard, was surprised, and paid with his own life, and that of his men, for his negligence. From this hill, one may behold, at a view, the three vallies of the Alleghany, Monongahela and Ohio.

Rapp’s society, after leaving New Harmony, chose a new situation which they named Economy. This is eighteen miles from Pittsburgh. I intended to visit it on the following day, but on this evening, (May 17,) I was surprised by a visit from Mr. Frederick Rapp, adopted son of the founder of the Society, who gave me an invitation to pay their establishment a visit. We therefore went willingly at ten o’clock, next morning, accompanied by Messrs. Bonnhorst and Volz, to Economy, whither Mr. F. Rapp preceded us.

We reached the Alleghany bridge, which is built of wood, roofed, and supported upon five stone piers. The foot-walks are separated from the wagon-road, and are open on one side, so that foot passengers are not incommoded by the dust from the inside of the bridge. On the opposite side is a little village called Alleghany town, laid out upon a great scale, but on account of the proximity of Pittsburgh, it will with difficulty attain any importance: in former years, the Indians, which then thickly hovered about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio, were a powerful obstacle to the increase of this place. On the heights stand elegant country houses. Farther off ran the road, which was bad enough, near to the right bank of the Ohio, through a wonderfully lovely landscape. The valley strongly reminds one of the Maas Valley between Namur and Lüttich; it is beautifully cultivated; the farms lie close together; the green hills, and groups of sugar maples and acacias have a most beautiful appearance. The latter were beginning to blossom, and filled the air with perfume.[II.30] In the Ohio we saw Neville’s island, which is about seven miles long and one broad, and is well cultivated. Over two little creeks we passed upon well kept, roofed bridges, and reached Economy at two, P. M. This place lies on a bluff fifty feet above the low water mark of the Ohio. Behind the village are some hills containing springs, whence the water is conveyed in pipes to Economy.

In approaching Economy we passed two burning brick-kilns; then we came to a newly-built house, at which stood three men with horns, who began to blow on our arrival. At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were received by Mr. Rapp, the principal, at the head of the community. He is a gray-headed, and venerable old man; most of the members emigrated twenty-one years ago from Wurtemberg, along with him. After our first greeting, we were conducted into a simple but tastefully arranged apartment. We conversed together for a time, and then all set down to dinner. The table was furnished with German dishes, over which reigned a jocund heartiness.

Having been prejudiced against Mr. Rapp and his society, by what I had read, and more recently heard at New Harmony, I was much rejoiced at having visited this place, to be better informed by personal observation. Never have I witnessed a more truly patriarchal constitution than here, and men’s actions speak best for their regulations, and for the concord prevailing among them.

The elder Rapp is a large man of seventy years old, whose powers age seems not to have diminished; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes overshadowed by strong brows, are full of life and fire; his voice is strong, and his enunciation full, and he knows how to give a peculiar effect to his words by appropriate gesticulation. He speaks a Swabian dialect, intermixed with a little English, to which the ear of a German in the United States must become accustomed; generally, what he says is clearly and plainly delivered.

Rapp’s system is nearly the same as Owen’s. Community of goods, and all members of the society to work together for the common interest, by which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, which is entirely wanting in Owen’s community; and results declare that Rapp’s system is the better. No great results can be expected from Owen’s plan, and a sight of it is very little in its favour. What is most striking and wonderful of all, is that so plain a man as Rapp can so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly seven hundred persons, who in a manner honour him as a prophet. Equally so for example in his power of government, which can suspend the intercourse of the sexes. He found that the society was becoming too numerous, wherefore the members agreed to live with their wives as sisters. All nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are born every year, for whom there is provided a school and teacher. The members of the community manifest the very highest degree of veneration for the elder Rapp, whom they address and treat as a father.

Mr. Frederick Rapp is a large good-looking personage, of forty years of age. He possesses profound mercantile knowledge, and is the temporal, as his father is the spiritual chief of the community. All business passes through his hands; he represents the society, which, notwithstanding the change in the name of their residence, is called the Harmony Society, in all their dealings with the world. They found that the farming and cattle-raising, to which the society exclusively attended in both their former places of residence, were not sufficiently productive for their industry, they therefore have established factories, which in this country are very profitable, and have at present cotton and woollen manufactories, a brewery, distillery, and flour-mill. They generally drink, during their good German dinners, uncommonly good wine, which was made on the Wabash, and brought thence by them: they left the worst, as I have remarked, at New Harmony.

After dinner we visited the village, which is very regularly arranged, with broad rectangular streets, two parallel to the Ohio, and four crossing them. On the 22d of May it will be but two years since the forest was first felled upon which Economy is built; the roots still remaining in the streets are evidences of the short time that has elapsed. It is astonishing what united and regulated human efforts has accomplished in so short a time!

Many families still live in log-houses, but some streets consist almost entirely of neat, well-built frame houses, at proper distances from each other, each house has a garden attached to it. The four-story cotton and woollen factories are of brick; Mr. Rapp’s dwelling-house, not yet completed, and a newly-begun warehouse, are also to be of brick. The log-houses stand in the rear of the line which the new houses are to occupy in the street, so that when in time they wish to erect brick buildings, it may be done without incommoding the tenants of the log dwellings. Mr. Rapp’s residence speaks rather freely against the equality he preaches to his people, yet without exciting jealousy or becoming a stumbling block. It consists of a principal building two stories high, with two lower wings standing in the same line, and is adorned with beautiful Philadelphia paper. At the back of the house is a piazza and balcony. There is also a garden containing several acres with flowers and vegetables, as well as a vineyard, situated on a terrace-shaped half circle on the hill, ending in a bower. I especially admired the beautiful tulips of this garden, in the midst of which is a round basin with a noble spring. Mr. Rapp intends to build a temple here, in which he will place a statue of Harmony: the statue is now ready. It is the work of a carver in Philadelphia, and is a colossal wooden figure, like the figure-head of a ship. In the garden are several cottages, one of them is roofed with sods, and is used for a pastry house. On the top is a sort of seat, where hereafter musicians are to sit; within there is a temporary frame hall. Near the garden is the green-house; this house, as well as the garden, is under the inspection of a very pretty girl, Miss Hildegard, a relative of Mr. Rapp, and possessed of much botanical knowledge. The women of this community have all preserved their Swabian costume, even to their straw hats, and they look very becomingly.

In the cotton and woollen factories, all the machinery is set in motion by a high-pressure engine of seventy horse-power, made in Pittsburgh. The machine pumps the water from a well fifty feet deep, sunk for the purpose. The community possesses some fine sheep, among which are many Merino and Saxon: they purchase wool, however, from the surrounding farmers, who have already begun to raise it to bring to Economy. As soon as the wool is washed, it is picked by the old women of the community, who work in the fourth story, whence it is reconveyed by a sort of tunnel into the lower story. The wool is then separated according to its quality into four classes, dyed together in the dye-house near the manufactory, returned to the mill, where it is combed, coarsely spun, and finally wrought into fine yarn by a machine similar to the spinning jenny. As soon as spun, it is placed in the loom and wrought into cloth, this is placed in a steam fulling-mill, so arranged that the steam from the engine is made to answer the purpose of soap and fuller’s earth, which is a great saving. The cloth is shorn by means of a cylinder, upon which a strong piece of steel turns. There is a model of this shearing-machine in the patent-office at Washington. The woollen goods most in demand in this country, are blue middling, grey mixed, (principally used for pantaloons,) and red and white flannel cloths. The red flannels are in great demand.

The cotton factory is employed in spinning and weaving. The printing of cottons has not yet been attempted, as the stamps cannot be procured without great expense and difficulty, and the fashions of printed calico are very changeable. The coloured cottons wove here are blue and white, mixed; a stuff of this colour much in demand in Tennessee, is called cassinet, the chain of which is of cotton, and the filling of wool. The spinning machines are of the common kind, each of which have one hundred and fifty spools at work. The first machine, which does the coarse spinning, has been much improved, so as to save a great deal of manual labour. There are also some power-looms here, though not many, neither have they at present but one dressing machine. Many of the machines are made in Pittsburgh; most of them, however, at Economy. As this establishment has been so recently founded, it is natural enough that but few machines should be prepared or in operation. The factories and workshops are warmed during winter by means of pipes connected with the steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the females, have very healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much gratified to see vessels containing fresh, sweet-smelling flowers standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns here, is in every respect worthy of praise.

After visiting these interesting factories, we went to Mr. Rapp’s temporary dwelling, a good frame house, in order to take tea. I saw here his unmarried, rather faded daughter, and his blooming grandchild, Gertrude, the daughter of his only son, concerning whose death such strange reports are circulated. The table was decorated with beautiful silver plate, and Rapp appeared to be rejoiced, to indicate by its possession, his well-merited prosperity. He commenced his business, as he informed me, with very slender means; when he began at New Harmony, he had to contend with the bitterest want, and more than once, had not bread for his community. He sent Frederick Rapp to Pittsburgh, to procure store goods, and absolutely necessary provisions, upon credit. The latter found himself generally repulsed, and remained the whole night awake in Pittsburgh, lamenting the cruelty of mankind. The elder Rapp, who waited in vain for his return, went to his house, also lamenting his situation, but not in the least doubtful of Providence, who watched over him and his; nor was his confidence misplaced. The heart of one Pittsburgh merchant was moved; he could not rest during the night for having so scornfully dismissed Mr. Rapp. He sought him early in the morning, took him to his store, and offered him whatever was necessary upon credit. In this manner was the society rescued. This worthy merchant some time after suffered in his business, and on this unfortunate occasion, the grateful Harmony society assisted him in a very generous manner.

We spent the evening likewise with Mr. Rapp. He collected the musical members of the society, and entertained us with music. Miss Gertrude played upon the piano, and three of the girls sang; the other instruments were violins, a violoncello and two flutes. The music was really not so good as we had heard in the preceding autumn at Bethlehem; but gave us much entertainment. Mr. Bonnhorst also delighted us with his fine performance on the violin. The music was principally directed by a German physician, named Müller, who belongs to the community, and also has charge of the school.

The next morning we went with both the Messrs. Rapp through the village. We visited the distillery, in which good whiskey is made, which is in much demand in the neighbouring places. None is made use of in the village itself, as the members of the society have mutually agreed to abstain from the use of distilled liquors. This distillery feeds many swine and horned cattle, which produce the society a handsome profit. The beer brewery from lack of barley, made beer of wheat; this brewery was not in operation. The flour-mill, not yet completed, is to be worked by a steam-engine, and is to be arranged like the Baltimore steam-mill. In a short time four sets of stones will be in operation, and an oil mill is also to be connected therewith. As careful managers, the directors of the society, in the upper part of the mill, which is five stories high, put away grain enough for a year, in order to be secured against scarcity, which is even in this happy country much to be dreaded. In the mill as well as in the factories, in each story there is a great iron cylinder, filled with water, which is thus at hand in case of fire. The society possesses a fire-engine of their own making, and have organized a fire company to work it.

We examined the workshops of the black and locksmiths, which are under the same shed, and then the joiner’s and cooper’s; we especially observed the marks of actual and filial respect which is borne towards the elder Rapp by his young people. The warehouse was also shown to us, where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved; and I admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and every thing is in common, so must they in relation to all their personal wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make use of, is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all long keeping articles are served out monthly; fresh meat on the contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is killed, according to the size of the family, &c. As every house has a garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and each family has also its own bakeoven. For such things as are not raised in Economy, there is a store provided, from which members with the knowledge of the directors, may purchase what is necessary, and the people of the vicinity may also do the same. The warehouse and store are for the present in wooden buildings, but in a short time the requisite brick buildings will be erected.

Under Mr. Rapp’s new house we found a fine roomy cellar, in which he gave us a very good glass of old Rhenish wine, and also some good wine made on the Wabash, of which he had twenty-one casks. I tasted a very dark and powerful wine, made from wild grapes, which grew on an island in the Wabash. For the first three years it is said that this wine cannot be drank on account of its sourness; this has been in casks for eight years and is so much improved, that it now is similar to old Hungarian wine.

As we passed along we saw a small deer park, in which the elder Rapp had amused himself in taming some bucks and does, which would eat out of his hand. We saw also here a noble young moose deer, which was as large as a stout ox. He is also very tame, but during the season is dangerous.

Mr. Rapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the girls had especially requested this visit, that I might hear them sing. When their work is done they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the number of sixty or seventy, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have a peculiar hymn-book, containing many hymns from the Wurtemberg psalm-book, and others written by the elder Rapp. The latter are truly in prose, but have been arranged to old tunes by the girls.[II.31] The elder Rapp is very fond of psalmody, and the girls must devote themselves considerably thereto, since Gertrude is a proficient and receives musical instruction. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, who sat amidst the girls and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterwards by Mr. Rapp’s desire, of gay character. With real emotion did I witness this interesting scene.

We had an excellent dinner in Mr. Rapp’s house, and the musical members of the society took this opportunity to play their best in front of it. The band consisted of twelve musicians, and performed very well, among them were two who played bugles. Both the Rapp’s, and especially the elder, advised me strongly to settle in their neighbourhood, and purchase at ten miles hence, the Beaver Falls on Beaver creek, for twenty-five thousand dollars. There I might establish iron works, said they, and make a great deal of money; they and their society would assist me in every possible manner!

With peculiar feelings we took leave of the friendly and industrious Economy, at three o’clock. No payment was received at the tavern, and we set out through the same beautiful places by which we had come towards Pittsburgh. Mr. F. Rapp, who had business there, followed us, accompanied by Gertrude. During this ride I had another opportunity of admiring the beautiful rocks as we passed by, and particularly the caverns, probably made in them by water, which remind one of the little caves near Ems, on the Lahn.

We stopped at Alleghany town to examine the new and unfinished penitentiary, which is arranged according to the system of solitary confinement. The whole is surrounded by a high hexagonal wall. The principal building, which is of sandstone, is three stories high. This is to contain the residence of the superintendent, the offices and infirmary. On two of the other angles of the hexagon are high round towers, from which the interior of the house can be overlooked, where the guards are to be stationed. Behind the principal building in the court-yard, stands a smaller building, containing, besides many cells for the convicts, the kitchen and wash-house. In a circle which is interrupted by the above mentioned buildings, stands a one-story building, containing convict cells, which has one row of entrances near the inner circular yard, and the other towards the space enclosed by the hexagonal walls. Each cell is eight feet long by six broad. It contains a bench, and receives its light through an opening secured by an external iron grate; within this is a wooden door, which the prisoner can, at his pleasure, open or shut. Before each cell is a very small open space. The cells are floored, and provided with iron rings to which the prisoners may be secured if necessary. These unfortunates have neither light nor room enough to work; I was informed that each prisoner was to be allowed to enjoy the fresh air for fifteen minutes daily. In this way, this new system can scarcely have any other result than that of destroying the health of the convicts. The prison contains one hundred and ninety-six cells, and it is said, that next autumn the first victims are to be sacrificed to a mistaken philanthropy.[II.32] The expense of maintaining these prisoners, who are not permitted to earn any thing, will necessarily be considerable.

On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; a work which requires a great degree of exactness.

We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In the patent-office at Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales.

Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still red-hot were knocked asunder.

In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged in the hall, as trophies, &c. An arch of steel is formed over this hall by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these are English, and trophies of the late Commodore Perry’s victory on Lake Erie.

The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o’clock, I went with Mr. Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. It is in Pittsburgh style to go to this church, while it would be unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst’s pew, which was rather full, and the air hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted two hours.

Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English.

Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy, and the fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is warmed by steam, throughout.

After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.

We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.

Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.

[CHAPTER XXV.]

Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city.

On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.

We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville—all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.

We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.

After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.

After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.

Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.

We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.

May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.

At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’s Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.

Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.

At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.

The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.

I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.

Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.

On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.

The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.

Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.

I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr. Roberts Vaux, the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d’affaires of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside over the house.

Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls learn to sew and knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance.

I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of making great progress in it. In order to teach the pupils the principles of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction gave me.

I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for painting.[II.33] But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept together.

I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since 1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because the merchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president Monroe’s administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to Washington.

We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin’s grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, with the following inscription:—

Benjamin et Deborah

Franklin 1790.

I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy.

Another visit was made to Peale’s Museum. I found, however, nothing new, except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and after they had died in convulsions, swallowed. Among the many gentlemen who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting change them into friends.

I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, is often a prey to severe distress.[II.34]

I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was most pleased with one by Birch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew were saving themselves from a wreck.

I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the then secretary of war, Armstrong.

At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New Harmony. Mr. Owen’s system does not meet with much favour here, and it is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. M‘Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing.

I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,[II.35] under which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed “Penn’s treaty, 1682,” and below, “unbroken faith.”

[CHAPTER XXVI.]

Journey from Philadelphia to New York.—Coal-mines of Pottsville and Mauch Chunk.—Bethlehem.

I left Philadelphia, June 3d, at four o’clock in the morning, to see the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey particularly, we were much incommoded by dust.

At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route tolerably good.

Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and Trap, a small place through which the road runs, we passed two other creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o’clock we reached Trautman’s tavern, where we found good lodgings.

Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. Muhlenberg’s direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be accommodated. They leave the one place at three o’clock in the morning, and reach the other about five o’clock in the evening.

I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left Reading at seven o’clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and Pottsville there are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time in the United States that the affectation of republicanism arrested my attention.

Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at Pottsville.

This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are built. A couple of saw-mills are erected for this purpose, as well as a high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to dig out coal.

Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper called the Miner’s Journal, which bears a good character.

I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a considerable saving, by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet been worked.

After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M‘Keansburg, through a woody valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M‘Keansburg is a small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M‘Keansburg adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a petrified bird’s head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of the heads, particularly, were very distinct.

After leaving M‘Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its rich and blooming vegetable productions.

It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and conducts its operations more systematically. One of the most important stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well.

On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and cheapness.

The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the vessel.

Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight up this plane.

A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent.

These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of forty-five degrees; it seems as if it had been once elevated and broken by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure and good drinking water.

We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours.

In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married and have their families with them. The company has given them a clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here. The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges.

A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen and their families receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer’s hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the way with regard to the transportation of other coal.

I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them.

At five o’clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was midnight before we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the German language is the only one spoken.

Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left this place, June 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, and rode fourteen miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their leaves; now summer had given every thing new life.

At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop’s tavern, and soon after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother’s side a great grandson of Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of the girl’s school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time.

I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with the latter to the girl’s school, and again admired the great order which reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. Seidel sang, accompanied by a good organ. This devotional exercise occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel’s house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf.

The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister’s house, and these maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do much business.

But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o’clock in the afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o’clock, is a flourishing place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the villages the streets, and even the roads, for some distance are planted, and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree.

I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates himself in Easton to the law.

A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar schools.

I left Easton, June 9, at four o’clock, in the mail stage, and rode through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through a hilly, well-cultivated country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high mountain, called Schooley’s Mountain, where there is a mineral spring much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on Governor’s and Bedlow’s Island, and between in the back ground the city of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow’s island and the slightly fortified Ellis’s island, passed Castle-garden, and landed from the North river at seven o’clock in the evening. I immediately repaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did.

I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me back again to this place in health!

I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost every thing was done with a view to my departure.

I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, with very lively eyes, who spoke very well.

As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and soon extinguished.

I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre. This opera was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets.

As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to amount to one hundred and seventy thousand.

I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building.

I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takes the piece, makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen thousand dollars.

After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they performed various evolutions.

To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o’clock in the evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable manner.

At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length portrait of the deceased Commodore Perry. This naval hero was represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which had became useless, and going on board of another, in which he gained his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, M‘Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay.

To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see it again before his death.

I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition of the Signorina Garcia, it was not represented. The same folly prevails among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without regard to the exhaustion of the singer.

I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in attending to some mechanical business. They are taylors, shoemakers, weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be detained till their twenty-first year.

In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving instruction, they are employed in female occupations.

After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and divisions made in the interior, to separate the paupers from the criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed.

On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the street. They are building in Wall street, a new exchange, which, when completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city.

After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the brother-in-law of Governor Clinton.

[CHAPTER XXVII.]

Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool.

To my great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen and learned so much, and in which much more still remained to be seen and learned: sed fata trahunt hominem!

On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as she not only carried the Pacific’s passengers, but likewise their friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant.

After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing to head winds, could not proceed on her voyage. This ship belongs to the Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid board.

The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a resident of Richmond.

Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While sailing along the coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, I had a breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my travels, I enjoyed perfect health.

The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners.

As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,[II.36] Baron Lederer,[II.37] with his two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major Chotard,[II.38] with his lady and four children, and also a young Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable.

On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, the Abbé Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With regard to the other, the Abbé Richards, I heard it stated, that he had been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt water. Our trip seen from the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times.

During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted me.

On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on the 16th ultimo from Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the 24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast.

During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half despairing acquaintances. One of our boats had gone towards land upon a fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder.

At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its anchors. When an enemy’s fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, and are thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on the fortress already commenced.

In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my complaint did not produce vomiting.

During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the comfort of the passengers.

During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the neighbourhood of the perilous George’s bank, which we so carefully avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness.

On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the forenoon there was a heavy swell, which made me sea-sick. While labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey’s chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manœuvres on deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the bowsprit.

During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40° 3´ latitude, and 65° 4´ longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion of the ship it did not succeed well.

On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey’s chickens, and saw numerous sea-gulls.

On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name of Portuguese man-of-war. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. In the evening we saw in the ship’s wake the phosphoric sealight.

Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude 41° 24´, longitude 50°. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable’s length from our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42°, longitude 46° 48´.

The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave Governor Clinton’s; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. We were pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar mishap.

On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian observation, we found our latitude 44° 9´ and our longitude 39° 38´. In the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind.

On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46° 50´, longitude 30° 31´; wind towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling threatened us with a fall from our beds.

We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47° 58´, longitude 25° 10´. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the water sparkled like fireflies.[II.39] We overtook a brig, apparently bound on our course; on this occasion we once more remarked what a good sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing humidity.

The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling out of my bed, and it was only towards six o’clock in the morning that I began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we found ourselves in latitude 48° 40´, and longitude 19° 12´. In the afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in longitude 16°. The sea ran rather high while we were in the neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us.

On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey’s chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation.

The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, far into the sea, nor were we deceived in our expectations, for very early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and towards evening we became more happy than usual.

On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, and our signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and meadows are encompassed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the United States, and has beheld their elegant shipping, and particularly the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for the English shipping is far inferior to the American.

Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the city. We had passed the same floating light, which I observed three years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course. I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the departure of this lively fellow-passenger with much regret, as the loss of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three custom-house officers soon came on board, who after inspecting the vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which offered to take passengers ashore; but as it was near dusk, and as the most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-passengers accepted their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our friends anxiously awaited our arrival.

On the 14th of July, between two and three o’clock in the morning every body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince’s dock; this required much manœuvering, and at last we took in sail. After an hour’s labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King’s Arms Hotel, in Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many formalities. In America, it was quite the contrary: there they never thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner possible.

[CHAPTER XXVIII.]

Stay in England, and return to Ghent.

Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by Washington.

The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.

I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.

The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons.

For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of them were idle.

Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.

After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character. Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a handsome girl, who opened the door.

We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz. a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she threads a needle, sews, &c.

On the 16th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I departed from Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows. I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look.

Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a matter of the highest importance.

Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham, where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a large castle, situated in an extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell. Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there are two very respectable establishments of this kind at Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls.

We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o’clock in the evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the inhabitants, and as a playground for children.

In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in this city. I went to Mr. Thomason’s show-room, where every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, is to be seen. Several rooms contain uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, steel ware, guns, works in papier maché, crystals, &c. The well known Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs twenty-five guineas.

Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret. Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse.

In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This, first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason’s, but is not so richly and well provided.

In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerable pantomime, called the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, the Woodman’s Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a trip to the provinces.

On the 18th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I left Birmingham in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles. The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called Cæsar’s tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a particular book. After the earl’s death, the castle with its extensive domains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord Clarendon’s agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle from Charles II.

Through this building you enter the grounds belonging to the castle, after passing through a file of beggarly children, who offer you a description of the ruins for eighteen pence. Near the old house, called Gateway, there is a sign saying that the chimney-piece may be seen for sixpence. A tidy girl receives this stipend with a smart courtsey, and opens the door leading into an old room; it is one of the two which have been made out of the gateway. The chimney-piece was probably transported from the castle during the sacking of it. It is of alabaster, and bears the inscription, “Droit et Loyal,” and on each side the initial letters R. L., Robert Leicester; beneath it is Leicester’s coat of arms, surrounded by the order of the garter; below is inscribed the year 1571, and the motto, Vivit post funera virtus. Over the chimney-piece there is a square frame, containing the initial letters E. R., Elizabeth Regina; in the centre of it are holes, which lead one to believe that weapons were formerly fastened in them.

The garden lies to the right of this building. Close thereto is the dungeon, which stands on rising ground between the castle and the moat, which is now transformed into meadow-ground, and it runs north, west, and south, round the castle to the tilting ground. The bank of the moat was lined by a wall, crowned with several towers, one of which was called the Swan-tower. On the left hand one perceives a large yard, in the rear of which are the out-houses, and behind them lie the fortified walls with several towers. On ascending to the right of the castle, you arrive at the grand court, which is now only encompassed on three sides by ruins of edifices; of the buildings that were situated on the fourth side, no trace is remaining. The first ruin that you discover on the right is that called Cæsar’s tower; of this building, which was quadrangular, three sides are still standing; the walls are on an average sixteen feet thick. Here a flight of stairs lead to a door, now built up, which opened to the garden. Here is the only fountain which has as yet been discovered among the ruins. It is, like the whole castle, built of red sandstone, and cut, farther down, out of the hard rock; it is seventy feet deep, but is gradually filling up by the many stones cast into it. The kitchen adjoins Cæsar’s tower, and must have been a considerably large building, but there are only a few remains of it. The place where the furnaces and large kettles stood is still perceptible.

Adjoining the kitchen is the strong tower, forming the north-west corner; it is here that the Lancaster buildings commence. In this tower, which is also supported by uncommonly strong walls, are several tolerably well preserved winding stairs, by means of which one can ascend the walls to enjoy a fine and delightful prospect. Here are likewise cellars, still in good condition. The corners of this tower lead to small outer-towers provided with port-holes, which must have served for the defence of the place. Left of this building you reach the great hall. You observe in the basement story the servant’s hall, vaulted and furnished with central columns, which support the broken arches to the right and left. Over those arches is still to be seen where the flooring of the grand banquet-hall stood. The windows of this hall are very high, in a Gothic style, with columns in their centre. In the recesses of the windows are still several stone benches, and there are also two chimney-pieces to be seen in this hall. A smaller room is connected with it, having likewise a fire-place, which served as a chapel; and there is also a small closet, which the folks here call Queen Elizabeth’s dressing-room.

The great hall forms the south-west corner of the castle, and the ruins connected with it, belong to the southern wing. Close to the great hall, there are two ruins, of which but little remains to be seen, the first is called the white hall, the other the presence chamber. The so called privy chamber is next to them, in which a window and fire-place are still distinguishable; they say, that the chimney-piece, now in the gate-house, was taken from this place. Here begins the newest part of the castle, or the Leicester buildings. They consist of a large, quadrangular tower, four stories high, in which the place for the staircase, as well as the different stories, may still be clearly distinguished. And here terminate these uncommonly interesting and picturesque ruins, to the beauties of which the creeping ivy, which has grown very thickly over them, adds considerably. Fortunately, Lord Clarendon has forbidden, that any portion of the ruins should be taken away, for previous to the prohibition of such an abuse, the peasantry were in the habit of carrying away stones from the ruins to build their houses and for repairing their garden-walls.

From Kenilworth I travelled five miles through a lovely country to the town of Warwick, the capital of Warwickshire, to behold the Earl of Warwick’s castle, at that place. Two miles from this town, lie the now much visited and fashionable springs of Leamington, where with the exception of the company, nothing remarkable is to be seen. Warwick stands on stony heights, on the banks of the river Avon, contains about nine thousand inhabitants, and though a very ancient city, has a tolerably agreeable appearance. The principal church has an ancient and venerable aspect, as also two gateways, the remains of the old city walls, now standing in the middle of the streets. The court-house is a new edifice, and as the town assizes were then holding, several splendid equipages were drawn up in front of it.

I immediately afterwards proceeded to the castle close to the city. It is a very old building, the foundation of which, it is said, was laid before the conquest of England by the Normans; the walls and towers still standing, which environ the court-yard of the castle, are said to have been erected at that period. The castle stands upon a rock by the bank of the Avon, and commands a view of a surprisingly romantic country. At the foot of this ancient castle, at the water’s edge, are the castle mills, which on account of their venerable appearance, and the waterfall, caused by a dam in the river, greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. Behind the mill are to be seen the ruins of a bridge which led over the river, and is now overgrown with ivy. Quite in the back ground, one discovers the new bridge over which the road from Leamington runs. These groups produce an uncommonly pleasing prospect.

On approaching the castle from the city, you see a gate with a Gothic tower, which serves as a habitation for the gate-keeper. Hence, after inscribing your name in a book, you continue on your way to the castle. This road leads through the park, and is mostly cut in the rock, the sides of which are very picturesquely overgrown with ivy.

On attaining an open space, the whole castle stands in view; it is approached over a stone bridge, through a gate furnished with a portcullis, and then you find yourself in a spacious court-yard, the castle standing to your left, in front, and to the right the lofty walls that surround the court-yard, studded with towers. Grated gates lead underneath the towers, to the park that surrounds the castle. I entered the castle up a handsome spacious staircase, and there I found the neat house-keeper, who for money and good words, shows strangers the interior of the castle.

First you enter the great hall, the walls are lined with carved oak wood, and ornamented with scutcheons and ancient arms, and with three real colossal elk-horns, the largest of which was found in Ireland, and the other two in America. From this hall there is a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms, and from the windows the charming prospect of the Avon, and the before-mentioned mills and bridges.

From the hall you proceed into the ante-room; here I admired two paintings by Van Dyk; one represents a lady as large as life, belonging to the Brooke family, with her son; the other is the portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria, the consort of Charles the first. In the same room is to be seen, the extremely handsome portrait of Queen Johanna of Naples, by Raphael; also the portrait of the Marquis Spinola, armed cap-à-pied, a painting of Rubens; the portrait of count Gondomar, the Spanish ambassador, near the court of James I., a production of Don Diego Velasquez de Silva; and two very charming landscapes, by Poussin, which however, require to be retouched. In the same room there is a table inlaid in Florentine mosaic, two vases of lava, several Etruscan vases and lances, which are to be seen in almost all the rooms, a marble bust of the present Lord Warwick, by Nollekens, and a book-case of tortoise shell inlaid with brass.

Adjoining this chamber is the cedar drawing-room, so called, because the walls are wainscoted with cedar wood, which, notwithstanding its antiquity, sends forth a charming odour. There is likewise in this room a handsome fire-place, and a marble table, inlaid with lava. Among the paintings are five by Van Dyk, viz. the Countess of Carlisle, Charles I., the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Montrose and the landscape painter, Martin Ryckaerds. Beside these there is a Circe of Guido, a very beautiful piece, and two paintings of less value, one by Romney, representing the celebrated E. W. Montague in a Turkish costume, and the other by Patoun, representing a muse.

Adjoining this hall there is a room, which, owing to the heavy gildings on its walls, is called the gilt-room. Here are two paintings by Rubens, the one of Lord Arundel, the collector of the celebrated antiquities at Oxford, known by the name of the Arundelian marbles, and the other representing St. Ignatius. This piece was painted by Rubens, for the Jesuits College at Antwerp, and was transported hither from that city. There is also a well painted portrait of Prince Rupert, by an unknown artist, another of the Prince of Orange, by Holbein; the portrait of a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; several of Vandyk’s productions, one representing Admiral Russell, and another a Spanish General; by the same master hand, the portraits of Charles I., Lord Northumberland, Queen Henrietta Maria, two portraits of the celebrated Lord Stafford, one of them representing this unfortunate statesman in his earlier, and the other in his latter years, the portrait of Lord Warwick, a full-size portrait of Prince Rupert, and another of the Marquis of Huntley. Those portraits are altogether executed in a masterly manner. The portrait of a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; two small Murillos, one representing a girl with a pen, and the other a child, blowing soap-bubbles; moreover, a portrait of Lord Lindsay of Charles 1st’s time, by Cornelius Janssen, and a Tintoretto, representing the Italian sage Davila. It it a pity that several of these pictures hung in the shade, and that in the usually clouded atmosphere of England, they cannot be properly seen. In this as well as in the ante-room, were several vessels by Majolica, ornamented with handsome paintings copied from drawings of Raphael.

You next proceed to the state bed-room, hung with old tapestry, representing French gardens. The richly ornamented bed is said to have been fitted up by the order of Queen Ann. It contains a bust of the Black Prince in full armour by Wildon, and three paintings, a full-size portrait of the Duchess Margaret of Parma, by Titian, a family portrait by Sir Peter Lely, and a profile of the unhappy Earl of Essex, done by Zucchero, an Italian painter, whom political causes had driven from his native land to England, where he received protection, patronage, and a friendly reception from Queen Elizabeth.

Next to this room is the small state dressing-room, from the windows of which there is an extensive and fine prospect. It contains a precious collection of paintings; one by Paul Veronese; a very grand sketch by Rubens, of the four evangelists; two old men’s heads by the same master; two landscapes by Salvator Rosa; four Vandyk’s, consisting of the second Earl of Bedford; tritons and sea-horses; a study; a sketch of St. Sebastian, and a bacchanalian scene; two by Gerard Douw, one an excellent portrait of a Mrs. Digby, abbess of a convent, and the other an effect of light, representing an old woman eating; two by Teniers, scenes of witches and the interior of a watch-house, hung with armour; three Holbeins, the first a portrait of Luther, the second the unfortunate Ann Boleyn, and the third her sister Catharine Boleyn, aunt and tutress of Queen Elizabeth, and in the midst of these portraits, that of Henry VIII. in his childhood. There are two pieces by Steenwyck, one representing St. Peter in prison, and the other his liberation therefrom. Portraits of two of Charles the second’s mistresses are likewise to be seen here, as also a copy of a portrait of Henry IV. of France, by Patoun.

A small cabinet, called the Compass Window, adjoins the just mentioned apartment; it takes its name from a painted window. Among the paintings in this room are a battle piece by Schut, a sea-storm by Vandervelde, and several invaluable pieces.

From this cabinet you enter the chapel by a gallery which runs in the rear of the before-mentioned room. I remarked in it a full-length portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyk, and a half-length portrait of Oliver Cromwell, by R. Walker. The chapel is rather small, contains the arms of the Warwick family, and over the altar Gothic ornaments, carved in wood.

On returning to the large hall, you reach the dining-room through it. It is a splendid, large hall, containing an ancient marble table, and three large portraits of the Prince of Wales, grandfather of the present king, his consort a princess of Gotha, holding George III. in baby-clothes on her lap; a Lord Brook, a copy by Patoun, who, as preceptor to Lord Warwick, was more of an amateur than a painter. These paintings are devoid of taste, and the best things about them are their heavy gilt and ornamented frames. Over the portrait of the princess are the arms of Saxony.

Adjoining the large hall is likewise the breakfast-room. In this room are the following most excellently executed paintings: Charles 1st’s children, by Vandyk, and a portrait of a female, by the same artist; two lions, by Rubens; and a full-length portrait of Admiral Tromp, by Rembrandt. Three paintings by an unknown master; the unfortunate Mary Stuart, with her son as a child; a Lord Brooke, and Sir Philip Sydney.

After I had inspected the castle, I passed out through a private gate in the lofty wall of the castle-yard, and proceeded to the park over a stone bridge that crosses the dry castle moat. Groves are beautifully interspersed with bowling greens in this park; a solid pebbled path takes you round the park in about half an hour. There are several fine prospects, and the place is well stocked with evergreens, which during the last winter, I had many opportunities of admiring in a state of nature. Three years ago, while journeying for the first time through Great Britain, I could not help admiring in the English parks, the luxurious abundance of evergreens and their lovely growth; but after beholding these plants in their native land, growing in their full vigour, the most splendid English gardens dwindled into insignificance, when compared with the beauties of nature in America. I observed a number of fine lofty cedars of Lebanon, which are to be found in most of the extensive English gardens. In this park there is also a very large hot-house, the plants raised in which are now elegantly distributed throughout the garden. In this hot-house I perceived the celebrated antique vase, the copy of which, in bronze, I had seen at Mr. Thomason’s in Birmingham. This remarkable antique was found not far from Hadrian’s Villa in the vicinity of Tivoli. It was first purchased by Sir William Hamilton, then English ambassador at Naples, who sold it to the late Lord Warwick. It is of white marble, round in form, and will hold one hundred and sixty-three gallons. It has two handles of entwined vine branches, which with their elegant leaves and heavy clusters of grapes, wind themselves round the upper part of the vase. On the under part is seen the panther’s skin, and on it several well finished heads of satyrs, as well as several thyrsus and augur staves. The vase is in a state of high preservation, and only one satyr’s head is replaced; the remaining ornaments are not in the least injured.

During my walk through the park, I passed along the bank of the Avon, which runs at the foot of the rock, on which the castle is built. On a small black slate, attached to the rock, there is an inscription, stating that a young man, one of the Bagot family, was drowned there while bathing. The unfortunate father has erected this little monument to the memory of his son. On my return to the castle, I ascended one of the towers, called Gay’s tower, about one hundred and fifty feet high; this tower is very well preserved, and is provided with fortifications. In the interior there is a small room, and from the top of the tower there is a fine and extensive prospect.

On my return to the city, the stage for Stratford-on-Avon was about starting; I took a seat, and after eight miles journey, found myself once more on the grand turnpike leading from Birmingham to Oxford.

Stratford is a small, inconsiderable, ill-built town, but celebrated as the birth place of Shakspeare. One of the smallest houses bears the following inscription, “in this house the great Shakspeare was born.” It is now a butcher’s stall and belongs to strangers, to whom Shakspeare’s posterity were compelled by poverty to dispose of it. It is said that he was born in a room of the Upper story; in this apartment are several old pieces of furniture, the existence of which they flatteringly endeavour to trace from the days of Shakspeare, also a poor portrait of the poet, and a copy of his will; and a spectacle case made of the wood of a mulberry tree, which they say was planted by him.

At Stratford I took a post-chaise, proceeded on my journey, and at ten o’clock in the evening reached Oxford, which is thirty-nine miles from Stratford. I took up my lodgings in the Star Hotel. As I had seen Oxford three years previous, I merely sojourned there half a day, with the intention of beholding once more, in the Bodleïan Library, the lovely portrait of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, painted by Zucchero, and which had formerly pleased me so much that I considered it as the best likeness I had ever seen of that interesting woman. I therefore proceeded to that library: I hurried through the library hall, but made a much longer stay in the gallery of paintings. The sight of the portrait of Mary Stuart renewed all my old impressions, and I gazed intently upon it for a considerable time with the greatest pleasure. I likewise remarked a collection of seven paintings by Schalk, effects of light, representing the seven mortal sins, very well painted, moreover a number of pieces by English painters, and a number of portraits of the patrons and benefactors of the university, of its chancellors, and several of the most celebrated literati who had resided in the university. Also a few by Holbein, among which, the portraits of Luther and Erasmus, pleased me the most. A full-length likeness of Charles XII. of Sweden, by Schroeder, is uncommonly well finished; of the same size, and next to it, hangs the portrait of Frederic William I. King of Prussia. The physiognomy of the former, and the entire form, are expressive of the great and original genius of that monarch; there is something abhorrent, pedantic, and tyrannical in the features of the latter.

The library contains several models of Grecian architecture, which are skilful imitations in plaster; also a model of the Parthenon at Athens, which very agreeably recalled to my mind Philadelphia and the Bank of the United States. Here is likewise to be seen a model of the Amphitheatre of Verona, cut in cork, and an elegant collection of the Elgin marble bas reliefs, well imitated in plaster. A full-length statue of one of the Lords of Warwick, in bronze, representing him in a warlike costume, is also well worthy of the attention of travellers.

After having here satisfied my curiosity, I went to the Radcliff Library, which is built in the form of a cupola, in order to enjoy a view of the city from its roof. Fortunately the weather was very clear, which seldom occurs in England, and as there are no manufactories and steam-engines in Oxford, the atmosphere is not obscured by coal smoke. The city, owing to its ancient university and churches, has a singular appearance, and though I had seen during my travels a great many cities, still I found none to be compared with Oxford. The university, its twenty colleges, and five halls, have the appearance of so many old castles: such is also the appearance of the Bodleïan Library, that stands near the Radcliff library. In the court-yard of the former, there is a gate, in which the five orders of architecture are placed over each other, which produces a strange effect. Near the gate are four Tuscan pillars, over these four Doric, above these four Ionic, and again over these four Corinthian, and this strange conjunction is terminated by four Roman columns. Two columns are always joined together. Between the fourth row, the statue of James I. stands in a niche, next which, on the right, as I believe, there is a Minerva, and on the left the university is personified by a kneeling figure, to whom the learned king most graciously tenders his own works. Four thousand students are said to belong to the university, but there were very few then present, it being vacation time. Therefore the city with its ancient buildings, looked rather dull.

At twelve o’clock, noon, on the 19th of July, I left Oxford in the post-chaise, and proceeded to London, which although fifty-eight miles from Oxford, I reached in six hours. It is incredible how fast one travels on this route and how quick they change horses. I was by chance enabled to retain the chaise all the way from Oxford to Hounslow. The moment I arrived at a post-house, a servant came instantly to demand, whether I wished to stop or proceed; no sooner did I answer in the affirmative, than he would call out for horses, and the whole proceeding lasted at the utmost one minute. The leader was brought out, ready harnessed, and put to; the postillion followed on the saddle-horse from the stable, and remained in the saddle while they were gearing the horses; the stable boy then requested his fee, and off we went. During this journey, I was only detained three minutes at each post. They charge for carriage and horses, eighteen pence a mile, and the drink-money, three pence per mile. Since my journeying in this country three years previous, postage had been raised three pence.

The road lay through a cultivated and woody country, and we traversed several rising grounds. We passed many fine large country-seats, surrounded by extensive parks. From Salt Hill, which is a very pretty little place, there is on the right, a charming view of the castle of Windsor, two miles distant, on the lofty round tower of which was displayed the royal standard as a sign that the king was there. The castle has really a very imposing appearance. The large Gothic church of Eton College, recalled unpleasant recollections to my mind. For on my visit to this college, three years past, they showed me on a shelf a number of elegantly tied, long birch rods, with which youth, engaged there in study, are flogged, and for the supply of which, a regular contract is made with the steward. In a handsome village, called Slough, stands the dwelling of the celebrated German astronomer, Herschel; there is still to be seen in the garden, the stand supporting the telescope, forty-eight feet long, by five feet in diameter, with which Herschel made his great astronomical discoveries. Hounslow is a charming town, and very lively, owing to its proximity to London. The number of stages and other carriage, which I met with in this neighbourhood, is scarcely to be credited. This concourse of vehicles, and afterwards the multitude of country-seats, which follow one another in rapid succession, together with the chain of towns, that continually present themselves, indicated clearly, that I was approaching the greatest city in Europe, and perhaps in the world. I remarked in Hammersmith and in Kensington, a considerable number of new and handsomely built houses, that had been erected within the last three years. We drove through Hyde Park into Piccadilly street, and thence into Albemarle street, where I found excellent quarters in Grillion’s hotel.

I made a stay of six days in London. To speak of the circle of my acquaintance in which I moved during my residence in this bustling city, would ill become this book, and to make any mention of London itself would be both useless and superfluous. Consequently, I shall present but a few particulars.

Whoever is obliged to make many visits to London, or whose business takes him to many houses, loses an enormous quantity of time; to him one day is as nothing. From my hotel to Mr. Goeman’s,[II.40] who resides in the city, in the neighbourhood of the East India company’s stores, it took me three quarters of an hour. At first to a stranger, a walk of this kind is by no means tedious, on account of the great and strange bustle surrounding him. In the stirring part of the city there is a store in almost every house, and as the English are known to possess much taste in displaying their wares, these stores have an amusing, interesting, and charming appearance. In most of the streets the pavement had been cast aside, and the streets were Macadamised; an improvement which is both beneficial to those who ride, and to the poor-built houses, which, owing to the rolling of heavy carriages along the pavement, were dreadfully shaken. I had long been aware that several merchants and tradesmen decorated their signs with the names of those members of the royal family, by whom they were particularly patronised, viz. corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent, &c.; this time I remarked in Knight’s bridge, on my way to Kensington, a sign bearing the inscription of “only purveyor of asses milk to the royal family.” Through the medium of Mr. Goeman, I received from the celebrated engineer Brunel, an admission to visit the new tunnel, under the Thames; it was a five miles drive from my lodgings. The entrance is near the church of Rotherhithe. To commence the work they had to dig a round pit seventy-five feet deep, above twenty feet in diameter, and walled in with bricks. In the centre of this pit they have constructed a quadrangular wooden scaffold. On this is erected a pumping machine, by which the spring water that gushes out from the tunnel, is pumped off. The water collects itself in a basin under the scaffold. The ejection of it is accomplished by means of an iron pump, which draws off the water from the basin, and forces it into an iron tube, which passes out from the pit. Another pump and tube is in reserve to be immediately used, in case the former should require repair. In the interior of this scaffold there are two buckets, to hoist the earth from out the tunnel, one of which comes up filled while the other goes down empty. These buckets have four small iron wheels, and rest upon a board. The moment it reaches the top, it is received by a workman, who carries it twenty feet along a railway, to the place for depositing the earth, and after emptying it carries it back on its board; that it may be let down while the other is coming up filled. The place, into which the earth is thrown, is a large wooden receiver, which is erected in the manner of a bridge. In the bottom of this receiver are several holes, which can be opened and closed by means of slides. The wagons destined for carrying away the earth, drive underneath such a hole, the slide then is drawn back, and the wagon is filled with earth and drives off. Up to this time none but silicious earth has been dug out of the tunnel, and this was appropriated to the filling up of the swampy ground, near Southwark. But now they find clay, which is used in burning bricks. The machinery, by which the buckets are hoisted and lowered, and that moves the pump, is set in motion by a species of steam-engine, called the expansive engine, an invention of Mr. Brunel. I did not perfectly comprehend its mechanism, and could only perceive that it occupies a very small space, and acts with great facility; there are two boilers and two machines, one of which is unemployed, but can immediately be set in motion, whenever any thing happens to the other, so that nothing may stop the work.

Around the wooden scaffold, stairs run down to the bottom of the pit. My guide, Mr. Armstrong, who inspects the work under Mr. Brunel’s direction, conducted me. When arrived at the bottom of the pit, we found ourselves at the entrance of the tunnel, which then ran already, one hundred and twenty feet under ground, to the bed of the Thames. It was conceived that about one-third part of the work had been completed. The tunnel consists of two vaults for two passages, one of them is for carriages passing in, and the other for those going out. Along the partition wall of those two vaults, there is on each side a somewhat elevated side-walk for pedestrians; this wall is open in some places in order to admit of a communication between both walks. It is lighted by means of portable gas, which is contained in copper barrels.

The manner that the work is conducted, cannot be clearly explained without a drawing. The scaffold, upon which the workmen stand who are employed in digging out the earth, consists of thirty-six small boxes, lying in three rows above each other. This scaffold is at the end of the tunnel, and rests exactly against the earth to be taken away. There are three men in each box, one to break the ground with a pick-axe, the other to shovel it out of the box, and the third to throw it on a cart, in which it is carried into the pit, whence it is raised in the buckets. For the safety of the workmen, cross-timbers are used to prop up the earth that is to be dug out. The first workman, on beginning his excavation, removes the upper beam and hacks out the earth behind it; which done, he takes away the second beam, and removes the second tier of earth, then the third, &c. If sufficient earth, about a foot wide, has been dug away from behind the first box, then the two boxes adjoining, begin the same operation. During this time the masons are not idle; for they continue working in the same proportion at the vault which has to support the earth above the tunnel. When, however, all the earth before the whole scaffold has been taken away, it is moved forward by means of steel screws. Both above and below the scaffold there are iron plates, with sharp edges, to facilitate the moving of it. On this plan the work proceeds at the rate of two feet in twenty-four hours; it is hoped that it would be completed in two years time; they have been over a year already working at it. I regret very much my not having met with Mr. Brunel, who is likewise the inventor of the block-machine at Portsmouth, and other very useful engines.

In Leicester square there were two fine panoramas; one representing the city of Edinburgh, and the other that of Mexico;[II.41] the former panoramic view was taken from Caltonhill, and I recognized every place, owing to my having been there three years previous. In beholding the second, I regretted anew that my affairs during the last winter did not permit me to undertake a journey to Mexico. The beautiful blue sky reminded me of the happy days I passed in New Orleans, and I recognized the lofty Andes from the description, which I have so often read of them. Mexico deserves, if I am to judge from the panorama, to be called the city of palaces, as it is generally styled. In order to give an idea of the manners of the people, the artist gives a representation of the circus on the great square during the time of a bull-fight, and not far from it a procession.

At Regent’s place a diorama was to be seen. You are conducted into a pretty dark round saloon, and you perceive there, through a square hole, a painting that is lighted in a manner which cannot be discovered. The painting represents a church in Scotland called Rosslyn chapel. You seem to be at the entrance of the church, and you see that the sun darts his beams from the side and causes multifarious shades, on account of the bushes and trees in front of the windows of the church. In the rear of the church you see a small door, leading to a yard, planted with underwood, and in the back ground, a Gothic building. By and by the sun disappears, and you perceive by the effect of light, that a storm is approaching; then you see the effect of rain, and after this disappears, you enjoy the finest sunshine. The illusion is so perfect, that you seem to hear the rain. In the interior of the church several objects are represented with the greatest accuracy, viz. a part of a scaffold, to which ropes are attached, a basket with tools, &c. The Gothic pillars of the church display a particularly handsome view.

After having contemplated this painting for a considerable time, a signal is given with a bell. The floor on which the spectators stand, turns to another opening through which you have a view of the city of Rouen, in France. Now the same effects of light as in the other piece are displayed, and you imagine yourself to be in the place, which is represented to your sight. But the first piece made the best impression on me. The finest part of this diorama is the representation of interior parts of buildings.

I was delighted at the fine view of the newly-finished buildings of Regent’s park, the construction of which was begun during my visit three years ago. This new quarter consists of palaces. At Mr. Ackermann’s store I enjoyed a sight of the greatest variety of fancy articles. It is only to be regretted that the works published at his establishment are so very expensive. I had the pleasure of becoming personally acquainted with Mr. Ackermann, this venerable philanthropist is plain in appearance, but is very interesting in his conversation. He spoke much with me about my happily finished travels, and invited me to his country-seat; but I was obliged to decline this invitation on account of the short time which remained at my disposal. I next visited the store of another German, a cutler and manufacturer of surgical instruments, Mr. Weiss; he is a native of Rostock, but already more than thirty years established in this city, and particularly in making surgical instruments, he is said to be the first manufacturer in England. He showed me several apparatus and instruments, among which there was one for removing a stone, without the necessity of performing the operation of cutting. He showed me the cast of a stone as large as a chesnut, which had been extracted from the bladder of a man, without any cutting operation. Moreover, he showed me a poison pump of his own invention, by means of which, poisons that have been swallowed, may be extracted from the stomach. This machine consists of a brass tube which contains the pump; to this is attached a long tube of elastic gum, which terminates in a sack of the same substance provided with holes. This tube is passed through the throat into the stomach, and when the sack has entered the stomach, the poison is pumped through the flexible tube into the brass one. By turning the handle of the pump the gum tube is closed; then it is forced down again, by means of which another valve on the other side of the brass tube opens, and to this another elastic tube is attached, through which the extracted poison is ejected. Then the handle is turned a second time, which closes this valve and opens the first one, leading to the tube that is fixed in the stomach, and the operation is continued until no poison is left in the stomach. Mr. Weiss told me, that some weeks ago, by means of this instrument, his son had saved the life of a girl, who had taken a considerable dose of arsenic in a fit of amorous desperation.

The English nobility give, at certain times, in the British institution, Pallmall street, a public exhibition of their collections of precious paintings. Just now there was the king’s collection of paintings from his palace, Carlton-house, because they were about to demolish this palace, and in its place erect an edifice after the model of the Parthenon at Athens, which is calculated to contain the works of English artists. This is a fine idea, and certainly encouraging for the artists of this nation, but it is a pity that it causes the destruction of this elegant palace. The British institution is a building which consists of three large halls, and which receive their light from above. The collection mostly contained paintings of Flemish artists, some English, and a few Italian and French. There were seven pieces by Rubens, amongst which I particularly noticed his own likeness and that of his first wife, finished in the same manner as those in the collection of Mr. Schamp at Ghent, and at Warwick Castle; besides these, a landscape with figures, representing the history of St. George, with the portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria and Charles I. for whom it was done. Seven paintings by Vandyk, among which the portraits of Charles I. in three views, which his lady had sent to the statuary Bernini at Rome, to finish the bust of the king therefrom. A sketch, studies of horses and horsemen, of remarkable value, and a full-size portrait of Gaston de France, and two portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria, which, like that of her unfortunate husband, I might call unavoidable, because it is to be found almost in every collection of paintings in England. I found seven pieces by Rembrandt, among which were several excellent portraits, and his own; they were all easily distinguished by his particular colouring. Fourteen paintings by Teniers, collections of people; small portraits; a view of the towns of Holland, and a couple of landscapes, one of which represents likewise, the artist, his wife, and his gardener; a real ornament to this collection. One of these pieces, representing a village festival, had been on the artist’s harpsichord. I admired two other pieces, in the same style, by J. Ostade, and seven by A. Ostade; six by Jan Steen. One of the latter, very excellently finished, represented an elderly man, just rising from bed, who is listening to the reproaches of a young girl, for his niggardliness; she holds forth to him a trifle of money, and an old woman is urging him to be more generous. Four effects of light, by Schalken, and a portrait by Holbein, are likewise worthy of attention. Nine pieces by Wouverman are easily distinguished by the white horses, representing skirmishes and country scenes. Seven pictures by Mieris are to be known by their fine keeping. Three pieces are by G. Douw, one by Slingelandt, and five by Metzu. A landscape by Ruisdael, and two by Hobbema, attracted my particular attention, as well as eleven pieces by Vandevelde, representing sea-pieces, landscapes, and views of several cities of Holland; two of the latter are finished by him and Vanderheyden jointly; I observed likewise, four very fine pieces by Vanderwerff, one of them representing the Roman Mercy, the other a concert, the third Lot with his daughters, and the fourth two children.

The collection is likewise rich in paintings of animals; there are four capital works by G. Potter, one of them representing two hogs, as true as if they were living. A piece by Hondekoeter, representing a chicken, belongs likewise to this class, as well as ten pieces by Cuyp, in which the landscapes are very well finished. Among these I enjoyed particularly a camp-scene with a horseman in the fore-ground, engaged in currying his horse. Six very good pieces, by Berghem ought not to be omitted, nor a handsome sea-piece by Buckhuizen, with a view of Briel in the back-ground.

Besides these pieces, there is a good collection of other paintings of the same school, but it would lead me too far, to mention them all. From other schools there are but a few and of less value. A landscape with sheep, by Titian; Christ taken down from the Cross, by Michael Angelo and Venusti, and another piece by Gonzalez. Among the paintings of modern times, I found the portrait of Garrick and his wife, by Hogarth; a domestic scene, by Greuze, and several pieces of an Italian painter, Zeffani. One of them, which has become more generally known by the copperplate of Bartolozzi, represents the Royal Academy of London, and the other the Gallery of Florence, with the portraits of several Englishmen of note, who sojourned at that time in Florence. By the same artist I saw two pieces, representing the interior of two royal palaces, with the children of George III. and their mother. These tasteless pieces, compared with the before-mentioned elegant paintings, make an unpleasant impression. I saw eight pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds, among which his own portrait and two full-size portraits of the Portuguese Chief Marshal Count von der Lippe, and of the English General Marquis of Granby. These two pieces are masterly works, and full of expression. You distinguish in the countenance of Count von der Lippe and in his whole posture, his profound and enterprising spirit, and in the features of Lord Granby his great benevolence, which procured him in the army the name of the soldier’s friend. The features of the count excite respect, while those of the lord claim your attachment. I was much less pleased with the historical pieces of Sir Joshua. The most handsome of the newer paintings was undoubtedly the interior of the choir of a Capuchin chapel by the French painter Granet. The expression of the countenances of the monks is unparalleled; in some you see piety, in others listlessness; another couple make sport of the exceeding piety of a monk, kneeling in the middle of the hall; the countenance of a young, tall, stout monk, is the personification of fanaticism. Near the altar stands a monk in the sacerdotal habit, with two choristers and tapers in their hands, the monk singing a hymn. The light is very well executed; it enters through a large window in the back ground, and makes a fine effect on the bare crown of the head and the gray beard of the priest. I think this piece one of the finest of the whole collection. I saw here a great many gentlemen and ladies, and it is said to be fashionable to visit this splendid gallery in the afternoon.

On the 26th of July, (the anniversary of the day on which I first landed on American ground at Boston,) I went to the custom-house for the purpose of taking passage for Ostend on board the steam-boat Earl of Liverpool, Captain Peak, which was laying there at anchor. At the custom-house I was quite surprised. I expected to see the splendid, newly-erected palace for the offices of the custom-house, the same which, three years ago, I had admired so much, and instead of it, found nothing but ruins. They said that the foundation had not been well enough examined upon which the custom-house had been built by contract; the building cracked, the large, splendid hall was near falling down, and in order to prevent this accident, they were obliged to demolish the centre building; both wings of the building were yet supported by beams, but they soon will have to demolish them likewise, in order to build an entirely new house. The gentleman who made the contract to have the house built, lays the blame of this bad work upon the architect, and he upon a commission, under whose control he acted.

The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines, left London at eleven o’clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six o’clock I landed at Ostend. At four o’clock, P. M. I proceeded by the way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations. I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a bustling present struggling for future improvement.

On the 28th of July, at four o’clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent.

[II.1] Accommodation is here so difficult to procure, that the senators are obliged to sleep three upon one mattress laid upon the floor: their food consists, it is said, almost without exception of salted pork.

[II.2] In this part of the country, they have either feather beds or moss mattresses; if these latter are old, the moss clots together, and it is like lying on cannon-balls.

[II.3] [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the artists of the Theatre Français, if, unfortunately, one visit to the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!] —Trans.

[II.4] Among the slave traders, a Hollander from Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable beings, driven to despair.[II.4a]

[II.4a] The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man, not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as it should be, that the slave trade is carried on, almost as vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere, whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers owning West India Colonies, connive at the trade, which is fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa, to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the American, or any other government really wished to put an end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished, by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade in February last, from a part visited by the writer.—Trans.

[II.5] Colonel Croghan was one of the most distinguished officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.

[II.6] [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the efficiency of the police of which can never be enough admired.] —Trans.

[II.7] I have already made some remarks with regard to the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master. The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or “aux quatre piquets.” In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or sells him to work on the plantations.

[II.8] If it be known that a stranger, who has pretensions to mix with good society, frequents such balls as these, he may rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.

[II.9] [A plain, unvarnished history of the internal slave trade carried on in this country, would shock and disgust the reader to a degree that would almost render him ashamed to acknowledge himself a member of the same community. In unmanly and degrading barbarity, wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to every human emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association with whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form. One of these internal slave traders has built, in a neighbouring city, a range of private prisons, fronting the main road to Washington, in which he collects his cattle previous to sending off a caravan to the south. The voice of lamentation is seldom stilled within these accursed walls.] —Trans.

[II.10] This Frenchman, a merchant’s clerk from Montpelier, was not satisfied with this: he went to the police, lodged a complaint against the girl, had her arrested by two constables, and whipped again by them in his presence. I regret that I did not take a note of this miscreant’s name, in order that I might give his disgraceful conduct its merited publicity.

[II.11] [Nonsense.] —Trans.

[II.12] [Our author has somehow been confused in his diary here: the mouth of La Fourche is generally called seventy-five miles above New Orleans, Stoddart makes it eighty-one. At any rate it is about half way between Bayou Sara or Point Coupee and the city of New Orleans; and of course the Duke must have passed Donaldsonville, which is at the junction of La Fourche with the Mississippi, in the morning of the day he passed Baton Rouge.] —Trans.

[II.13] In these rivers there is a difference understood between the two kinds of trunks of trees which lie in the stream, and are dangerous to vessels, i. e. snags and sawyers. The first, of which I have spoken already in the Alabama river, are fast at one end in the bottom, and stand up like piles; the others are not fastened, by being moved by the current the upper end of the tree takes a sawing motion, from whence its appellation is derived.

[II.14] Coluber coccineus.

[II.15] [These log turnpikes are better known by the name of “corduroy roads.”] —Trans.

[II.16] [This is, perhaps, the most charitable idea that can be formed of the actions of such reformers, as well as of a “lady” heretofore mentioned, who has unsexed herself, and become so intoxicated with vanity, as enthusiastically to preach up a “reformation” in favour of the promiscuous intercourse of sexes and colours, the downfall of all religion, and the removal of all restraints imposed by virtue and morality!] —Trans.

[II.17] [It is understood that Mr. M‘Clure has long since given up all connexion with the New Harmony bubble.] —Trans.

[II.18] By late newspapers it appears, that the society actually dissolved itself, in the beginning of the year 1827.

[II.19] [According to the report of some females, who were induced to visit New Harmony, and remained there for some time, any situation much above abject wretchedness, was preferable to this vaunted terrestrial paradise.] —Trans.

[II.20] He was drowned in the Wabash, which he attempted to swim over on horseback.

[II.21] [He is at this time advertising a boarding-school in the Western country, on his own account, which is to be under his immediate superintendence!] —Trans.

[II.22] [He has left it some time since, as well as Dr. Troost.] —Trans.

[II.23] These had been presented to Bishop Fenwick by Cardinal Fesch, for his cathedral, and were only here, until they could find their place in the Temple of God.

[II.24] [Brother of Lord Hill.] —Trans.

[II.25] [Peyton Symmes, Esq. receiver of the land office.] —Trans.

[II.26] [Tetrao Umbellus, L.] —Trans.

[II.27] These meadows are designated in America, by the name of prairies, and extend over large tracts of land in the western country; they are covered with high grass; trees grow very sparingly on them, while the surrounding forests exhibit the most beautiful trees; the soil of these prairies generally consists of turf-moor.

[II.28] [The Ohio Eagle.] —Trans.

[II.29] Knopendraayerye.

[II.30] In the year 1826, I enjoyed three springs; the first about the end of February at New Orleans, the second at New Harmony and Louisville, and the third in the state of Ohio, and west Pennsylvania.

[II.31] In this hymn-book are some pieces, which, if the perfect child-like innocence of these maidens be not recollected, might appear rather scandalous. For instance, there is a literal translation of the song of Solomon, among others.

[II.32] [It is to be hoped that the able and luminous report of the commissioners appointed by the state, to make inquiries on the subject of penitentiary discipline, will be sufficient to correct the glaring errors of this new system; which like most of the new systems of the present day, is clearly proved thereby to be more specious than beneficial. The evidence accumulated by the commissioners is of a character to satisfy every candid mind, not chained to the support of a particular theory, that solitary confinement without labour, is unequal in operation, inadequate to the end proposed, and promises to be as destructive to human life as it is discordant to humane feelings.] —Trans.

[II.33] [This is a very erroneous idea. The taste for painting and music has not been cultivated, generally, in this country, on account of the condition of property and society, which demand of Americans a primary devotion to things absolutely necessary and useful. As wealth becomes more accumulated, artists will be encouraged; and then we have no fear of their being long inferior to the artists of any other nation.] —Trans.

[II.34] [The reason is, that the portrait painter ministers to the gratification of personal vanity, or self-love, and the landscape painter to a refined taste. As the proportion of egotists to men of refined and cultivated taste, is somewhat less than a million to one, it is easy to see which branch of the arts will receive most attention.] —Trans.

[II.35] Kensington was formerly a distinct village, on the Delaware above Philadelphia; the city has now extended thus far, so that it now belongs to the city. The tree was some years ago struck by lightning and destroyed.

[II.36] In service of the Netherlands, on his return from a mission to the new South American republics.

[II.37] Austrian Consul-General to the United States.

[II.38] Whose acquaintance I made on the Mississippi during my trip from Louisville to Cincinnati.

[II.39] [This light is emitted by molluscous animals, which are exceedingly abundant in some parts of the ocean. They are also seen to great advantage during the night, in the Chesapeake bay.] —Trans.

[II.40] A respectable London merchant, and native of Flanders, to whom I am much indebted for very important services.

[II.41] [Now exhibiting in New York.] —Trans.

THE END.

[Spelling and Typography]

Spelling was corrected if the mistake was clearly mechanical, or inconsistent with the author’s (or translator’s) usage elsewhere. This includes some spellings that were acceptable in 1828, but are different from other occurrences of the same word.

All commas are as printed. Inconsistent italicization of ships’ names is as in the original. The notation “invisible” means that there is an appropriately sized empty space, but the punctuation itself is missing.

Some specifics:

“Bodleïan” is written with dieresis

“chesnut” is standard for the time and is used consistently

“team boat” (referring to canals) is not an error

“lime-stone” and “sand-stone” are hyphenated at the beginning of the book but later become single words

“free-stone” or “freestone” are not frequent enough to establish a pattern

“country seat” starts out as two words, but later becomes hyphenated “country-seat”

the inconsistent spacing of “no( )where” “every( )where” and “else( )where” is unchanged

“back ground” is generally two words; “fore-ground” (with hyphen) occurs only once

Spelling (unchanged):

appointed him his aid

present as aid to the Emperor

Mr. Butler, his aid
[the spelling aid is used consistently]

the tatoed and dried head of a New Zealand chief

roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c.

This place is called the antichamber.

it is fixed in a cramp [text unchanged: error for clamp?]

some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days

corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent [Duchess and Dutchess are each used once]

French (corrected):

From the left wing a line runs en crémaillère [crémaillére]

When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be “bredouille.” [bredouillè]

so that they would consider their labour in the light of a corvée. [corveè]

Errors (corrected):

strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes [bass-reliefs]

the rooms are not large; the beds [is not]

On the top of the capitol is a cupola [cupalo]

the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings of insignificance and grandeur [simultaneons ... insignificence]

then a company of sappers and miners, [minors]

in which again each sex has its own side [each sect]

There are two paintings by Teniers [painting]

the office and place of deposit for bound bibles [deposite]

They recall to memory Glenn’s Falls on the Hudson [recal; recall is used consistently elsewhere]

the other loses by faint colouring [looses]

an English copy of the illustrations of Göthe’s Faust laid open. [illustratrations; spelling Göthe with umlaut unchanged]

In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a reservoir [their is]

close by it stands the prison, or county gaol, [goal]

this journey of one hundred and ninety-eight miles [ninty-eight]

the log houses were only employed as negro cabins [onegr]

we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here [several day]

because they had not received their pay for some time. [missing not]

Several of the French families here settled [familes]

so as not to lose themselves in the woods [loose]

and on this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary [acount]

has followed me even in America like an evil genius [and evil]

an inspection on the Red river, the Arkansas, and New Orleans [Arkansa; Arkansas is used consistently elsewhere]

a great part of the houses are built of brick; [missing a]

We frequently rode along the new national turnpike road [frequently road]

over some stone bridges of sumptuous construction [contruction]

about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio [righ]

parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. [callel]

the girls learn to sew and knit [sow]

The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. [accompaned]

every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, [Burmingham]

a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms [considerble]

until no poison is left in the stomach [stomuch]

Spacing, hyphenization, capitalization:

By his highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. [capitalized as shown]

two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain [floor,and]

so that it is excellently adapted to waterworks [anomalous missing hyphen unchanged]

They have a large kitchen garden [they have]

The corpse is put in the corpse-house [the corpse]

views of Monticello, Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in Washington [Mount-Vernon]

many evergreen trees and bushes. [ever green]

with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman [Herries;he]

This is, however, the case with most of the stores [this is]

Punctuation:

Footnote I-4: [This manuscript .... of London.]—Trans.
[printed of London.—Trans.]: changed for consistency]

On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at Falmouth. [6 A. M]

Schenectady.— Utica.— Rochester. [—Utica—]

and produce much vexation in consequence of the baggage. [final . missing]

the village of St. Regis, the last belonging to the United States. [final . missing]

a monument erected by the colony in honour of Lord Nelson. [final . missing]

to protect the place of embarkation by a fort. [final . missing]

On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux [Mr Vaux: period invisible]

mineralogy and geology.— ... lectures on chemistry. [missing . after geology and chemistry]

drawing of the human figure.— [final . missing]

The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest, pressed in, and packed up. [final . missing]

Mr. Nott studied in England and France [Mr Nott: period invisible]

the 16th ultimo from Liverpool [ultimo.]

[Footnote II-9: [... within these accursed walls.]—Trans. [missing — before Trans.]

the river is fordable in many places above the falls.” [close quote missing]

a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during forty miles.” [close quote missing]

even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease [punctuation unchanged]

one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here, [work here.]

in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence [St Lawrence]