NORTHERN
SPAIN

PAINTED AND DESCRIBED
BY
EDGAR T. A. WIGRAM

“There is, Sir, a good deal of Spain which has not been perambulated. I would have you go thither.”

Dr Johnson.

“And so you travel on foot?” said Leon. “How romantic! How courageous!”

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

“Yes,” returned the undergraduate, “it’s rather nice than otherwise, when once you’re used to it; only it’s devilish difficult to get washed. I like the fresh air and these stars and things.”

“Aha!” said Leon, “Monsieur is an artist.”

“Oh, nonsense!” cried the Englishman. “A fellow may admire the stars and be anything he likes.”

R. L. Stevenson.

TO
W. A. W.
SAEPE MECUM TEMPUS IN ULTIMUM
DEDUCTO

PREFACE

IT is ill gleaning for a necessitous author when Ford and Borrow have been before him in the field, and I may not attempt to justify the appearance of these pages by the pretence that I have any fresh story to tell. Yet, if my theme be old, it is at least still unhackneyed. The pioneers have done their work with unapproachable thoroughness, but the rank and file of the travelling public are following but slackly in their train.

Year after year our horde of pleasure-seekers are marshalled by companies for the invasion of Europe: yet it would seem that there are but few in the total who have any real inkling of how to play the game. Some seem to migrate by instinct, and to make themselves miserable in the process. These ought to be restrained by their families, or compelled to hire substitutes in their stead. Others can indeed relish a flitting; but cannot find it in their hearts to divorce themselves from their dinner-table and their toilet-battery, their newspaper, their small-talk and their golf. To them all petty annoyances and inconveniences assume disproportionate dimensions, and they are well advised in checking their razzias at San Sebástien, Pau, or Biarritz. But, to the elect, the very root of the pleasure of travel lies in the fact that their ordinary habits may be frankly laid aside. It is a mild method of “going Fanti” which rejoices their primitive instincts: and they will find both the land and the people just temperately primitive in Spain.

Many of us have felt the fascination of Italy. But those who have “heard the East a-calling” tell us that her call is stronger still;—and Spain is the echo of the East. “Lofty and sour to them that love her not, but to those men that seek her sweet as summer.” Even Italy, with all its charm, tastes flat to a Spanish enthusiast. He craves no other nor no better land.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

It has been said of Spain, that none who have not been there are particularly desirous of going, and none who have been there once can refrain from going again. The author has not found himself exempt from this common fatality; and his notes and sketches, as embodied in this volume, are the fruit of four successive bicycle tours, undertaken sometimes alone, and sometimes in company with a kindred spirit. Of their shortcomings he believes that no one can be so conscious as himself. But in the hope that they may prove of interest to sympathisers he ventures to expose them to the public gaze.

N O T E

All Spanish names ending in vowels are pronounced with the stress on the penultimate; and those ending in consonants with the stress on the final syllable. Any exception is indicated by an accent.

[CHAPTER I]
PAGE
The North Coast of Castile	[1]
[CHAPTER II]
Covadonga and Eastern Astúrias	[24]
[CHAPTER III]
Across the Mountains to Leon	[43]
[CHAPTER IV]
The Pilgrim Road	[64]
[CHAPTER V]
The Circuit of Galícia	[89]
[CHAPTER VI]
Western Astúrias	[113]
[CHAPTER VII]
Benavente, Zamora, and Toro	[132]
[CHAPTER VIII]
Salamanca	[152]
[CHAPTER IX]
Béjar, Ávila, and Escorial	[171]
[CHAPTER X]
Toledo	[192]
[CHAPTER XI]
A Raid into Estremadura	[215]
[CHAPTER XII]
Segóvia	[237]
[CHAPTER XIII]
Búrgos	[256]
[CHAPTER XIV]
Across Navarre	[278]
[INDEX]	[301]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[1.]	Segóvia. The Aqueduct	[Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
[2.]	Castro Urdiáles. The Bilbao Coastline	[6]
[3.]	Castro Urdiáles. The Harbour	[10]
[4.]	Santoña	[12]
[5.]	San Vicente de la Barquera	[20]
[6.]	The Deva Gorge. La Hérmida	[22]
[7.]	The Deva Gorge. Urdon	[26]
[8.]	Cángas de Onís. The Bridge over the Sella	[32]
[9.]	The Sella Valley. Below Arrióndas	[38]
[10.]	Pasana. An Asturian Mountain Village	[40]
[11.]	Llánes. The Harbour	[42]
[12.]	Leon. An Old Palace Doorway	[50]
[13.]	Leon. From the Pajáres Road	[58]
[14.]	Leon. Church of San Isidoro	[60]
[15.]	Leon. The Market Place, and Casa del Ayuntamiento	[62]
[16.]	Astorga. From the South-east	[68]
[17.]	The Vierzo. From Ponferrada, looking towards the Pass of Piedrafita	[72]
[18.]	Lugo. The Santiago Gate	[78]
[19.]	Lugo. Fuente de San Vicente	[80]
[20.]	Santiago de Compostela. From the Lugo Road	[82]
[21.]	Santiago de Compostela. The Cathedral from the North-east	[86]
[22.]	Orense. The Bridge over the Miño	[92]
[23.]	Tuy and Valencia. The Frontier Towns on the Miño	[96]
[24.]	Vigo Bay. The Inner Harbour, looking out towards the Sea	[100]
[25.]	Nuestra Señora de la Esclavitud	[104]
[26.]	Betánzos. A Colonnaded Calle	[108]
[27.]	The Masma Valley. Near Mondoñedo	[110]
[28.]	Rivadeo. An Approach to the Harbour	[114]
[29.]	The Návia Valley	[116]
[30.]	Cudillero. The Harbour	[120]
[31.]	Oviedo. A Street near the Cathedral	[124]
[32.]	In the Pass of Pajáres. Near Pola de Gordon	[130]
[33.]	Benavente. From above the Bridge of Castro Gonzalo	[134]
[34.]	Zamora. From the banks of the Duero	[140]
[35.]	Zamora. Church of Sta Maria de la Horta	[144]
[36.]	A Spanish Patio	[148]
[37.]	Toro. From the banks of the Duero	[150]
[38.]	Salamanca. Arcades in the Plaza de la Verdura	[156]
[39.]	Salamanca. Church of San Martin	[160]
[40.]	Salamanca. From the left bank of the Tormes	[164]
[41.]	Salamanca. The Puerta del Rio, with the Cathedral Tower	[168]
[42.]	Béjar. An Approach to the Town	[174]
[43.]	Béjar. A Corner in the Market-place	[176]
[44.]	Ávila. From the North-west	[180]
[45.]	Ávila. A Posada Patio	[184]
[46.]	Escorial. From the East	[188]
[47.]	Toledo. Bridge of Alcántara, from the Illescas Road	[194]
[48.]	Toledo. The Bridge of Alcántara	[198]
[49.]	Toledo. Puerta del Sol	[200]
[50.]	Toledo. Calle del Comércio, with the Cathedral Tower	[204]
[51.]	Toledo. The Gorge of the Tagus	[208]
[52.]	Talavera de la Reina. From the banks of the Tagus	[212]
[53.]	Plaséncia. Puente San Lazaro	[216]
[54.]	Plaséncia. The Town Walls and Cathedral	[218]
[55.]	Cáceres. Within the old Town Walls	[222]
[56.]	Cáceres. Calle de la Cuesta de Aldana	[226]
[57.]	Mérida. “Los Milagros,” the ruins of the Great Aqueduct	[228]
[58.]	Alcántara	[232]
[59.]	Segóvia. Church of San Miguel	[238]
[60.]	Segóvia. Arco San Estéban	[244]
[61.]	Segóvia. The Alcázar	[248]
[62.]	Segóvia. Arco Santiago	[252]
[63.]	Segóvia. Church of San Estéban	[254]
[64.]	Búrgos. Arco San Martin	[260]
[65.]	Dueñas	[264]
[66.]	Búrgos. Hospital del Rey	[266]
[67.]	Búrgos. Arco Sta Maria	[268]
[68.]	Búrgos. Patio of the Casa de Miranda	[272]
[69.]	Búrgos. From the East	[276]
[70.]	The Gorge of Pancorvo	[282]
[71.]	La Rioja Alavesa. Looking Northwards across the Ebro	[284]
[72.]	Miranda del Ebro. A Corner in the Town	[288]
[73.]	Pamplona. From the Road to the Frontier	[290]
[74.]	Olite. The Castle	[292]
[75.]	Pamplona. A Patio near the Cathedral	[296]
Map at end of Volume.

The design of the Cover is adapted from the façade of the Casa de las Conchas (House of the Shells) at Salamanca.

The device on the Title Page is taken from a wrought-iron knocker of the Cathedral at Toledo.

The illustrations in this volume have been engraved and printed
in England by Messrs Carl Hentschel, Ltd.

{page 1}

NORTHERNSPAIN

PREFACE

CONTENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

NORTHERN
SPAIN