XX. EXPEDITIONS OF 1902
During the spring of 1902, several expeditions were at work in the Northern regions, each hoping to be the first to reach the pole.
One of the most important was the Ziegler-Baldwin expedition, equipped by Mr. William Ziegler of New York, and commanded by Mr. Evelyn Briggs Baldwin. This was the largest and probably the best equipped expedition sent out. Baldwin had two ships, four hundred Eskimo dogs, and fifteen Siberian ponies. His flagship, the America, was a stoutly built whaler and carried a cargo of six hundred tons. His other ship, the Fridtjof, carried the scientific instruments.
Through the generosity of Mr. Ziegler, practically perfect scientific apparatus accompanied the expedition, and Mr. Baldwin was assisted by experts in geographical charting, geology, botany, and meteorology. Both the America and the Fridtjof reached Franz Josef land, but very little significant work was accomplished. Instead of wintering in the North as had been planned, Mr. Baldwin returned to Norway. Mr. Ziegler, however, has not faltered in his determination to find the pole, and he has sent out another expedition for that purpose which is now in the North.
A Russian expedition excited widespread interest. Admiral Marakoff constructed an ice-breaking steamship, and with it expected to force his way through the ice to the pole. The steamer is called the Ermack, and is a very powerful ship, able to stand fifteen times the strain which may safely be brought to bear upon the average steel ship. In breaking the ice, the Ermack rises upon it and crushes it down. The forward propeller sucks away the water underneath the ice, and thus reduces the resistance.
Admiral Marakoff believed that the ice near the pole was thin, and that his ship would be able to steam directly to that long-sought-for goal. But in battling against the wide and heavy ice floes of the Arctic ocean, the Ermack proved a failure. It is said, however, that she made five successful trips between Nova Zembla and Franz Josef land.
Another expedition, the progress of which was watched with interest, was that of the Duke of Abruzzi, who is cousin to the king of Italy. He started for the North Pole in the Stella Polare, in 1899. In the spring of 1900, he succeeded in arriving within 239.15 statute miles of the pole. This record surpassed Nansen’s by twenty-three miles, and is, therefore, the best yet made.
It is said that Abruzzi and Nansen will join in command of an expedition which will start from Franz Josef land. Both men have done valuable work in the icy North, and important results are expected from their united efforts.
Captain Bernier, a French Canadian, planned to enter the Arctic by way of Bering strait. He expected then to travel over the route taken by the Jeannette. Bernier hoped to be carried near the pole by the ice drift. When he had reached a suitable place, he intended to leave his ship and proceed to the pole by means of dog sledges, reindeer sledges, and boats. The newly invented system of wireless telegraphy was to be used by Captain Bernier, as a means of communication with his ship.
Captain Otto Sverdrup, in command of the Fram, was already in the North in 1902. Sverdrup won his spurs, you will remember, while on the famous Nansen expedition. He was sent out by the Norwegian government to explore the northern coast of Greenland, and to connect Peary’s work on the east coast with that of a German expedition on the west coast.
Robert Stein’s expedition had not the proper equipment to seek the pole, but was designed for the exploration of Ellesmere land. Stein returned without accomplishing much valuable work.
A novel plan has been announced by Dr. Anschutz Kampfe. Dr. Kampfe proposes to build a submarine boat, and proceed to the pole beneath the ice.
For more than three hundred years, men have struggled to reach the North Pole. They have braved bitter winds and faced starvation and death, in order to wrest the secrets of nature from the great white North.
Since Sir John Franklin’s first trip to the Arctic regions, interest in the Frozen North has never flagged. Very grave doubts as to the wisdom of spending so large sums of money and of risking so many human lives have arisen in the minds of those who have followed the story of suffering and death. It is natural in this century, when men are counting the cost of every project, to ask wherein lies the advantage of exploring the polar country, since the work is in every case so difficult, so dangerous, and in many cases fatal. But we may feel sure that the work will never cease until every part of the Frozen North is known.
Beyond the additions to our store of meteorological knowledge, and of botanical and geological facts, there has been a decided addition to the world’s wealth by Arctic exploration: not in money, but in character; not in conquest, but in heroism; not in material success, but in those experiences which make men strong and enduring. The world is already richer in mines and money than it is in men of courage and in high acts of duty and bravery. Thrilling deeds, glorious perseverance, and unwearied patience are the noblest fruits of Arctic exploration.
XXI. THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH POLE BY ROBERT E. PEARY
1909
The struggle to reach the North Pole was still waging. Robert E. Peary was not a man to give up until he had reached the goal. The Peary Arctic Club again gave him financial assistance, and a vessel was constructed that could be forced through dense ice. Theodore Roosevelt was then President of the United States, and Commander Peary called his ship the Roosevelt, because, as he said, the name stood for strength and determination.
In June, 1905, he set sail, and reached the north coast of Grant Land, where he spent the winter, and in the spring he started northward with sledges and dogs. He made his way to 87° 6ʹ on April 21, 1906. This was less than two hundred miles from the Pole, and was the best record as yet.
Even for the far North that season was unusually severe. Violent winds and snowstorms separated the explorer from his supply depots, and he was forced to return, killing his dogs for food on the way. He was not discouraged, for he felt that every failure gave him more experience, which would enable him to achieve success some day.
The Peary Arctic Club again helped him, and Zenas Crane and many other public-spirited men sent donations of money. The death of Morris K. Jesup was a severe blow to him. Mr. Jesup had given him much support, both by his belief in Peary’s ability to reach the Pole, and by rendering financial aid to the expedition.
Copyright, 1910, by William H. Rau.
Peary in Arctic Costume.
When, through the efforts of General Hubbard, president of the Peary Arctic Club, the needed money was at last procured, Peary completed his plans. He believed that in order to reach the Pole he must adopt the manner of life of the Eskimos. These natives of the Arctic zone know how to travel over the icy seas with less discomfort and danger than any other people.
Peary again, as in his previous expeditions, decided to engage the hardy Eskimos from Whale Sound, with their dogs, for the mainstay of his party, and to take with him as few white men as possible. The expedition was thus mostly made up of natives accustomed to the difficulties and hardships of Arctic travel.
Then came the question of selecting the white men who were to accompany him. The following were chosen: Captain Robert A. Bartlett, as master of the Roosevelt; George A. Wardwell, chief engineer; Dr. J. W. Goodsell, surgeon; Matthew A. Henson, Peary’s negro assistant, who had been with him on many Arctic voyages, an excellent dog driver, and able to manage a sledge nearly as well as the best Eskimo driver; Ross G. Marvin of Cornell, Donald B. McMillan of Worcester, Mass., and George Borup of Yale, as assistants.
On July 6, 1908, the expedition sailed from New York on the Roosevelt, and July 17 from Sydney, Cape Breton. At the start, the white members of the party numbered twenty-two, and at Etah Peary found plenty of Eskimos willing to go with him.
These Eskimos, known as the Whale Sound Eskimos, are the most northerly race known. They migrate along the coast from Cape York to Etah, and are remarkable for their strength and endurance. From among them Peary selected his company; here, also, he procured many fine dogs, without whose help and service the Pole could not have been reached.
The Roosevelt steamed northward from Etah, pushing her way through the ice pack towards Cape Sheridan, on the northern coast of Grant Land. During the trip the Eskimo men were put to work making sledges and harness, and the women began to make winter garments for the men. There was much sewing to be done, for the white men wore in winter just the same kind of clothing that the Eskimos did.
McMillan, Borup, and Dr. Goodsell found amusement in watching the women at their sewing. Sitting on the ground or whatever is nearest, they take off their footgear and put out one foot. Then holding one end of the material between their toes, using the foot as a third hand, they sew the seam away from them, instead of toward them as our women do. It looked odd enough, but the spectators had to admit that the work was done well. The Eskimos sewed the furs and skins together so closely and skillfully that the cold could not creep through.
These industrious women made stockings and mittens of fur, boots of skins, trousers of skins of the polar bear, jackets of deer or fox skin, and hoods of fur, finished around the face with thick rolls of foxtails.
All were happy and comfortable for a while, but as they advanced the ice became thicker and the ship was in great danger. It took all Peary’s knowledge of the coast, and all Bartlett’s skill in navigation, to keep the Roosevelt from being crushed in the ice.
Every person on board, both whites and Eskimos, tied his most necessary belongings into a bundle and stood ready to jump over the side of the boat at a moment’s notice in case the ship should be destroyed. But skill and perseverance conquered, and the Roosevelt reached Cape Sheridan in safety.
Here on the shore of the Arctic sea the party wintered, spending their time in massing supplies at places farther north, where they were likely to be needed later. Hunting was good, musk oxen, bear, and deer were plentiful, and large supplies of fresh meat were obtained. The men of science took tidal and meteorological observations, and a happy and busy winter was spent.
On October 12 the party said good-by to the sun; the twilight darkened and the long Arctic night set in. Peary did not wait for the sun to return, but as soon as it was light enough to travel he renewed the journey to the Pole.
From “Fighting the Polar Ice,” copyright by Anthony Fiala.
Moonlight in the Arctic Regions.
On February 15, 1909, the first detachment of the sledge party under Captain Bartlett left Cape Sheridan for Cape Columbia, the most northern point of Grant Land. The other detachments followed on successive days, and on February 22, Peary started the last of all. From Cape Columbia he planned to travel directly north over the ice of the Polar sea for a distance of four hundred and thirteen geographical miles. This would take him to 90° north latitude, i.e., to the North Pole.
By traveling in detachments a path once opened was kept open. The first detachment accomplished the difficult work of breaking a way through the ice, the second detachment found travel easier, and the third found it still easier. Thus the strength both of the men and the dogs of the last detachment was saved for the final march.
The party was to return by the same route as the one they advanced by, the supporting parties keeping the trail open for the rapid return of the main party. They were also able to use many of the same igloos in returning, so that the labor of building them was avoided and the strength of the men economized. The plan of march resembled that of a relay race, with which all girls and boys are familiar.
The entire sledge party on leaving the ship numbered seven whites, nineteen Eskimos, one hundred and forty dogs, and twenty-eight sledges. On March 1, 1909, Bartlett’s party left land, setting out over the sea ice for the north, the distance from the mainland to the Pole being four hundred and seventy-five statute miles.
Think of starting on a journey of that length on foot with no certainty of even necessary food, and over a rough expanse of ice and snow. These brave men never faltered. As the party drew near the Pole, the supporting detachments were sent back one after another. The last detachment sent back was that under Captain Bartlett, who had given such valuable assistance in leading the pioneer party.
Peary felt sorry to part with Captain Bob, as he familiarly called him, and Captain Bob was sorry in his turn to go. He had reached 87° 47ʹ north latitude, and was nearer to the North Pole than any other explorer had yet been. It had been his ambition to reach 88°, but there was no time to spare, and though disappointed, he obeyed his commander cheerfully, like a good soldier. He had surpassed the Italian record by one degree and a quarter.
Peary was now left with only five companions,—Matt Henson, his colored servant, and four Eskimos; he also had forty dogs and five sledges. He was one hundred and thirty-three nautical miles from the Pole, and he planned to make five marches of at least twenty-five miles each, and then cover the remaining distance by pushing on with a light sledge and a double team of dogs.
From “Fighting the Polar Ice,” copyright by Anthony Fiala.
Eskimo Dogs.
After a rest and some repairing of the sledges the little party started northward. The sun shone brightly out of a deep blue sky, and a finer morning for the journey could not be imagined. Except for some pressure ridges which were nearly fifty feet in height, the ice was hard and level. The ridges corresponding to hills on land were not as hard to pass over as were the leads of water which Peary had met with before during the journey.
With weather in their favor the party made great progress. In one march of twelve hours thirty miles were covered. As they neared the Pole, the wind grew bitterly cold. Even the Eskimos complained of it, and said that their noses would freeze. This was unusual, for the nose of an Eskimo is supposed to be so hardy that no frosty winds could freeze it. But all soon forgot the cold in their joy in drawing near the Pole.
On April 6, 1909, at ten A.M. the last march ended, and Peary found by his observations that he had arrived at 89° 57ʹ north latitude. Here the party camped, and Peary called the place Camp Morris K. Jesup in honor of the man who had done so much to further discoveries in the Arctic regions.
From Camp Jesup, Peary traveled on about ten miles beyond the Pole, crossing and recrossing in several directions over a radius of ten miles. Strange were his feelings when he stood at the place where north, east, and west were eliminated, and every direction was south. He was also at a place where there is in the year but one night and one day, each six months in length. The stars circle round overhead during the night and the sun during the day.
As far as the eye could reach was a vast, white expanse of ice. No living creature was to be seen, no sign of life anywhere, only a great silence, a great whiteness, and dazzling sunlight. Peary placed the American flag in the ice. The Eskimos and Henson gave three cheers, and all shook hands.
The Eskimos did not understand what made Peary so happy, but they did know that he had succeeded in reaching a wonderful spot, which he had searched for during many years.
Thirty hours were spent at the Pole taking observations and photographs. The maximum temperature was -12° and the minimum was -30° Fahrenheit. Peary put records of his journey and a piece of the American flag in a glass bottle, and wedged it in between blocks of ice and left it. As the ice is constantly shifting and changing its position, it is hard to tell where this bottle may drift.
The ice at the Pole was too thick for Peary to measure the depth of the ocean. But on returning he found a place, five miles from the Pole, where the ice was thinner. He succeeded in making a hole with a pickax and dropped his sounding lead. The wire ran out to a depth of fifteen hundred fathoms (nine thousand feet) without touching bottom. Then the wire broke, and it and the lead were lost. We do not know how much deeper the Polar ocean may be.
The return journey to land was made by forced marches of about twenty-nine and a half miles a day. This speed was made possible by the lighter sledge loads, and the fact that they were retracing their steps over a trail kept partially open by the other detachments. But the Eskimos said, “The devil is asleep, or we never should have come back so easily!” Peary knew that they came back easily because of favorable weather and ice conditions, and because his plans had been wise.
When the party came in sight of the Roosevelt again, the joy of the men cannot be described. Captain Bartlett saw them and went out to meet them. His face was sad, and Peary felt that he was to hear some bad news. Bartlett then told him of the death of Marvin by drowning while on his return march. Peary felt keenly the loss of his brave companion who had accomplished so much valuable work, and who had made himself respected and loved.
All the members of the party resumed their duties, and the first was to reward the faithful Eskimos who had worked and served so well. Peary gave them hatchets, knives, shot-guns, rifles, and tools of all kinds. They were much pleased and felt as rich as millionaires.
As soon as the ice permitted, the Roosevelt left her winter quarters and sailed southward, stopping at Etah and Cape York, and arriving at Sydney, Cape Breton, September 21, 1909, where she received an enthusiastic welcome.
On September 1, 1909, while Peary and his party were still in the north, the world was startled by a telegraphic message from a Danish steamer, saying: “We have on board the American traveler, Dr. Cook, who reached the North Pole, April 21, 1908.”
The next morning the New York Herald published an account of the great discovery cabled by Cook himself. It said that he had reached the Pole on the date just mentioned, and that “it was a cheerless spot, an endless field of purple snows.” Two days later Dr. Cook landed at Copenhagen and was greeted with cheers, and great honors were bestowed upon him.
Two days later another telegram was received by the Associated Press of New York, which read:
“Stars and stripes nailed to the North Pole.
“Peary.”
There was great excitement all over the civilized world. Messages continued to arrive from Peary fixing the date of his arrival at the Pole, April 6, 1909. Cook claimed to have reached the pole a year earlier, April 21, 1908. Why had he kept silent so long? Discussion grew, and scientists demanded proof and data from both men.
The records of Dr. Cook were submitted to the University of Copenhagen, and their final report was made public December 21, 1910. It declared that the papers and documents submitted to it by Dr. Cook contained no observations or explanations to prove that Dr. Cook had reached the Pole.
That Peary reached the Pole was never doubted. The National Geographical Society after careful examination of his records reported that they were unanimous in the opinion that Commander Peary reached the North Pole, April 6, 1909.
The following resolutions were adopted:
“Whereas, Commander Robert E. Peary has reached the North Pole, the goal sought for centuries, and
Whereas, this is the greatest geographical achievement that this society can have opportunity to honor, therefore
Resolved, that a special medal be awarded to Commander Peary.”
Medals and honors were bestowed upon him by many scientific societies at home and abroad, and he was promoted to the rank of Rear Admiral in the United States Navy, and given the thanks of Congress.
The Frozen North has given up its secret. Man’s persistence has conquered, and 90° north has been attained.
Rear Admiral Peary and all the brave men, who for nearly four hundred years struggled to reach the North Pole, will be held in honor by their countrymen for all time.
Note.—A fathom is six feet; a statute mile 5280 feet; a geographical mile 6080 feet.
Transcriber’s Notes:
The Contents listing was changed to reflect the chapter title in the content where there was a difference.
A List of Illustrations has been provided for the convenience of the reader.
Printer’s, punctuation and spelling inaccuracies were silently corrected.
Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.
Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.