April xiii.
From Comorwa we proceed in two hours and a half to Dobral, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called Cornibat, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From Dobral we begin to ascend the foot of Haemus, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called Challikcavák[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count Oetingh, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.