June xxiii.
By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at Vienna; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the Caristhian gate and the Favorita, in a palace of Count Sterembergh. After the repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke Carlo, and the four Archdutchesses. And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective visits.
Vienna is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river Wien and a branch of the Danube, which latter here enlarges itself about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular, and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions, and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains, tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of the Blessed Virgin, and the other that of the most Holy Trinity. The former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing a noble statue of the Madonna, with her feet resting on a dragon. It was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith. The latter pillar, called that of the Holy Trinity, is a magnificent column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of Austria, being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in three corners with these inscriptions, Deo Patri Creatori, Deo Filio Redemptori, Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori; and in three other places with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty. From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds, surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt brass the Most Holy Trinity: the Holy Ghost, as a dove, irradiated; the Son in an human figure, holding a cross; and the Father at his left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the Divine Being which he adores. The figure of God the Father is very frequent in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap, and at other times with a papal crown.
The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to St. Stephen, and is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the wings of the Roman eagle, instead of the half moon, which stood there before by compact with Solymán the Magnificent. The inside of the church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the words of that ingenious heathen poet, Tabulis sacer votivis paries. Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name of Sta. Maria de Boes, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at Sancta Margarita, who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was brought to Vienna, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion. There is likewise another miraculous image of the Virgin at the lower north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter there, as being thought to be one of those, with which St. Stephen was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well carved, and some sculptures of the History of the Gospel, which can scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of Vienna. He is styled under his picture, S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr, who was drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the Queen.
Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches, of which the most remarkable is that of St. Michael; but among such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the Scotch; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the Domus professa, the other the college; next the Minorite Franciscans, then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the Scala sancta; the Augustines the Capella aulica, and the pattern of the Temple of Loretto; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted in perspective, that is inimitable, by P. Pozzo of that society; who likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at Rome.
Vienna was made the seat of the Imperial family by Ferdinand the second, who translated it from Gratz. The imperial and royal palaces belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the Bourg; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called the Favorite; a third at Eberstorff, two hours distant from the city; and a fourth at Luxemburg, at the distance of two hours and a half. All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different seasons of the year. But at Schonbran, about two English miles distant from Vienna, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which is built for the King of the Romans after the Italian mode, adorned in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court. The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides these, in the way to Eberstorff are to be seen the stately remains of the palace, called Neugebac; which was destroyed by the Turks in the late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with some others at Schonbran, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall here give a brief account of them. At Neugebac are two lions, one of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as can well be seen. Three cassawares, a species of bird without wings, the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three tigers, one of a large and unusual size. Two leopards well spotted, their ears short, their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures, which are thrown into their walk. Several lynces, nothing different (as I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in size. An hyaena, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A beaver, which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are at Schonbran. Several wild goats, the males with large horns, and therefore by the antients called aegoceros. Two ostriches, the one five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a camel, whence they are called in Latin camelostruthi. Two antilopes. A she elk, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with a broad excrescent mouth. Three uri, in the figure of a bull, but a thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller account may be seen in Caesar, De B. Gall. Lib. vi. cap. 5.
There are three libraries in this place. One is called Bibliotheca Windhagiana, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third, which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city. In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human foetus kept in spirits of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the Caesarian library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall give in the following particulars.
The most eminent Greek Mss. in the Catalogue of Nesselius, with other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures belonging to the res vestiaria of the antients; all which may be seen in the catalogue which I had there with me.
Besides what occurs in the Nesselian Catalogue, the antient Ambrosian Ms. of part of Livy, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is asserted by Dr. Brown[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that author, and tho it ends with Lib. XLV; yet there is added at the bottom of the page, Liber XLVI incipit feliciter, as if it was extant at that time, which is conceived by Lambecius to be about a thousand years since.
The Ms. German Bible of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the margin of which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his bagnio, where he was once prisoner; together with the bagnio girl, who furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.
A copy of the golden bull, containing the constitutions of the empire by Charles the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor Wenceslaus, but forty years after the original published at Waremburg in 1356, and still reserved at Augsburg.
An elegant, tho not very antient Ms. of Cicero’s Orations, with another more antient of Ovid’s Metamorphoses.
The Letter of the present Tartar Han to the present Emperor, finely wrote on a long roll of silk.
A printed book of the Confucian philosophy in the Sinese character and language, published by the Jesuits.
A Ms. book of Latin letters, written by the present Emperor to Lambecius, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins with, Chare Lambeci. To this is affixed the following Epigram on the present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by Lambecius to have been written by the Emperor in his presence at Luxemburg, 17 May 1666.
Bella fugis, sequeris bellas, pugnaeque repugnas,
Et bellatori sunt tibi bella tori.
Imbelles imbellis amas, totusque videris
Mars ad opus Veneris, Martis ad arma Venus.
The celebrated Ms. of Jacobus Strada, antiquary to Maximilian the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in this order: Vol. i. and ii. De nummis consularibus. Vol. iii. De Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. iv. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. v. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium Secundum. Vol. vi. De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. vii. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. viii. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos. This work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in folio; but the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.
Two fragments, one in the Greek, the other in the Latin tongue, written on antient bark.
The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited, that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small remainder of Matthias Corvinus’s library brought from Buda. But it is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of Nesselius it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts, especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding librarians, Lambecius and Nesselius, being before Lutherans, were obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.
Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels. But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there, which would be too large to be here inserted.
The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites, except that they refuse the office of rector magnificus, as being an expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments, adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him. But what they call the academy is in its kind more flourishing than the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding, fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from the public.
The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists of the Emperor; the Empress Leonora; the King and Queen of the Romans; Archduke Charles; with the four Archdutchesses, Marta Elisabeth, Maria Anna, Maria Josepha, Maria Magdalena. Of these the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the Romans twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next; the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain; their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what they call their Gala days, in which there is a great resort to court, and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws, wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the Jesuits. The King of the Romans on the contrary is severely imbittered against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.
The King of the Romans was gone to the siege of Landaw before our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which are sometimes acted in a theatre at the Favorite. It is their custom to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate, and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas, poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas. When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand cacciatóre rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer, enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots. At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.
During my stay at Vienna, I had the opportunity of three accidental but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called the confraternity of the dead, habited in black, with masks, broad brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as a piece of penance, to assist incognito on these occasions. But most remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three years imprisoned at Presburg, had admitted the embraces of a young man, whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk beyond the Favorite, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her, takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world, without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel. At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good against the falling sickness[135].
Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture of the Duke of Saxony, and other inferior Princes of that circle, now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the Favorite, on the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were dismissed.
The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, Sancta Victoria, Sanctus Alexander, and Sanctus Justus, from St. Stephen’s to the chapel of the Emperor’s palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being observed by Prince Leichtenstein in his late embassy to Rome, and found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to Vienna, and accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand; then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except the Archbishop of Vienna, who being dressed in his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings, flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under which he passed.