May v.
Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village, where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of Transylvania and Valachia, it will be here proper to set down such general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.
This province was under the Romans from Trajan to Gallienus, or rather to Aurelian; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the remainder of the Romans hence into Moesia and Pannonia. When it became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst Moldavia, which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money. That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the Dutch, or Venetian lion dollars; with the quarts of Poland; and a small Saxon coin, here called bains, of which one hundred thirty two make a lion dollar. Justice is here performed according to the ancient laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which, as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time of peace.
The natives ordinarily call themselves Romans, and their province Tzerra Romanesca[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language, which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the character[116], they have in common with Moldavia; which two provinces, together with Transylvania, constituted the ancient Dacia, the two former Ripensis, and the last Mediterranea. The wines of this province, especially about Tergovist, are exquisite fine. The Valachian habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the Gospels and other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries, which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned, profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or porch, is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent corporeal image of God the Father, a thing here permitted against the professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.