PLUMS AND DAMSONS
What is the finest fruit in the world? The secretary and the superintendent of the R.H.S. (in vol. xxvi., parts ii. and iii. of the Journal of the R.H.S.) agree in thinking that Goldoni, a yellow nectarine raised from a peach by the late Francis Rivers is, when properly ripened, without exception, the finest fruit in the world. It has not been my privilege to taste it, yet I venture to think that a thoroughly ripened plum of one of the best varieties must come near it. The incessant demand for greengages is a testimony to the popularity of the plum as a dessert fruit. Next to the apple, it is the most useful of our fruits.
Origin of the Plum
Eminent botanists are of opinion that our plums and damsons have had their origin in the Prunus Communis found in various parts of Europe and Asia, but others consider that the Prunus Domestica is the parent of the majority. Mr A. H. Pearson of Chilwell, Nott. (v. Journal of the R.H.S., vol. xxi. part ii.), thinks that "the blood" of more than one species is found in the plums of the present day, as varieties closely resembling one another demand different stocks for their well-being when propagated by grafting. The cherry plum is Prunus myrobalana, and of this species there are several varieties, as St Etienne, Mirabelle Précoce, i.e. the Early Mirabelle, Mirabelle Petite, and others. Rivers' Early Prolific is said to be of the same race.
The Bullace is classed by some botanists under the Prunus Instititia, and they place the damson in the same species, but the latter is round, the former oval. The damson, a small plum, may be safely classed with the Prunus Communis. It derives its name from the city of Damascus. Damascena is the word used in Pliny for the district round Damascus, and damson originally meant the Damascus plum. The Chinese have for centuries cultivated plums, and in the United States plums from Japan are coming rapidly into use, and appear to be more successful there than in the British Isles. We find the word prunum, a plum, in Vergil, Ovid, Martial, and other Roman writers. Prunus, a plum tree, is derived directly from the Greek; prunus silvestris, in Columella and Pliny, is supposed to mean the black thorn or sloe tree. These illustrations prove that the plum has been known for ages, and that its value is recognised in every part of the world. Our word plum is plainly derived from the Latin (probably through the Anglo-Saxon), and the word prune is almost identical with prunum.
Soil and Situation
The plum is not so particular as the pear about soil, yet it has its preferences. It is not so deep-rooting as the apple and pear are; the character therefore of the lower soil is not so important. But stone-fruits require lime. In planting for profit, no site should be selected for a large plantation if the soil is deficient in lime. It is true that lime can be added, but this plan may suit a private garden, not a large plantation for profit. The plum being hardier than the pear will flourish in most soils, even in a heavy loam, but not in light sandy or gravelly soil. In the latter case, something may be done by heavy manuring and frequent removal. The trees in the R.H.S.'s garden at Chiswick are a triumph of skilful culture, as good crops are raised on many trees in a hot and gravelly soil. Some damsons, however, do not thrive there. But such culture is costly. In soils of an intermediate character, much may be done by adding other materials as suggested for pears. If there is any doubt about the amount of lime in the soil, an analysis should be obtained, and special notice taken of the trees in the neighbourhood. The plum (like the pear) will not thrive in a low, wet, undrained locality, nor in one that is very dry or exposed. Drainage is essential to success. If, in a rainy season, water in a clay soil is allowed to remain round the roots, canker or gumming is pretty sure to follow. Excessive moisture is as bad as extreme dryness. The slope of the ground, therefore, is a matter of importance. In Essex there is often land quite level with a heavy clay soil difficult to drain; such soil would not suit plums, though it might suit quinces. The aspect as well as the slope must also be considered. For the better class of plums, i.e. dessert varieties, where sweetness is expected, a position open to the southern sun is best, but they will also thrive if the aspect is S.-E. or even S.-W. Culinary and hardy varieties might be planted in the colder aspects to the N., N.-E. or N.-W. Proper shelter must by no means be forgotten. Bitter north winds may injure the bloom almost as much as frost or rain; strong winds from the E. or S.-W. may do great damage to heavy crops. Mr Lewis Castle in "Plums for Profit" (edited by myself, S.P.C.K.) suggests that "Canadian and Italian poplars make a good break if tall growers are required, but cherry plums, the myrobalan, will grow into a strong hedge in two or three years' time if the height be sufficient." Damson hedges serve a double purpose and afford good protection. He also suggests that some of the ornamental crabs are similarly useful for protection. Of these the Transcendant and Hyslop or Dartmouth produce good crops of lovely fruit which are excellent for cooking purposes and would probably sell well.
Propagation and Stocks
The usual method of propagation is by budding and grafting. The stocks on which the different varieties are grafted are raised from stones. Mr Pearson states that six kinds of stocks are used in the best nurseries—i.e. the common plum, the Brussels, the Mussel, the Brompton, the Damas Noir or St Julien, and the Myrobalan. The secret of success is to work the stock with a variety which is of common parentage. Nearly all plums will grow upon the common plum stock, though some of them thrive much better upon other stocks. Prince Englebert and Diamond flourish upon Mussel, but not upon the Brompton. Belgian Purple will not grow upon either Brussels or common plum, but succeeds upon Damas Noir, Mussel, or Myrobalan. The accurate knowledge required points to the wisdom of purchasing trees only from nurserymen who make such trees a specialty.
The late Archdeacon Lea in his excellent book "Small Farms" dwells strongly on the folly of buying cheap stuff. Trees on unsuitable stocks or not true to name bring bitter disappointment after a few years. "Never purchase trees because they are cheap. Visit the nurseries, and pick out trees with clean healthy bark, even though they are smaller than others." If you cannot go or send a reliable man, write in good time and get an early choice. Select and accept only young trees not more than two or three years' old. Budded trees are better than those grafted, as a general rule, the union being better; indeed grafting is usually adopted because budding has failed. In trees that have been budded, there will probably be less gumming.
Planting is a matter of supreme importance, but the rules for pears and plums are very much the same. Especial care must be taken if the soil is heavy and loaded with moisture. Put the trees on arrival in a trench (see before), and wait until the ground is fit and the soil as fine as possible so that the roots may run freely through it. Get the stakes ready and place them in position before planting. Bind the tree, if tall, at once when planted to the stake by soft willow twigs or other means, taking every care that the bark is not rubbed by the stake. Old cloth or carpet may be used for this purpose, tarred twine or cord being passed round it. Dry stakes well tarred, often last as long as they are needed.
What is your Object?
What is your object? Before choosing varieties, or planting, it is advisable to ask yourself, what is my object? On the answer the form of plantation and the choice of trees must depend. If for a private house only, the answer is easy. Then comes the question, Is there a wall, and if so, what is the soil and the aspect? Is there an Orchard House? If for market, for what market are you preparing? In the Midlands, the Pershore (= Gisborne's) is a great favourite; in London, the Early Orleans and the Egg Plum; in the North, the Black Diamond, the Wydale and others. In planting damsons the same question should be put. The Midland people won't have the Farleigh Prolific so popular in Kent, and they are right; the Shropshire folks think their damson the best of all and many agree with them. Are you near a jam factory? What plums do they desire or require? Local circumstances and wants should have great weight. If you are near a wood and birds are numerous, you may be wise in not growing greengages, yet otherwise they may be the best sort for a large outlay as the demand for them is universal.
Plums for a Private Garden
Let us suppose that the soil is fairly good; the choice of trees is not difficult. We have a selection made in 1892 by a committee of the R.H.S., consisting of forty experts, and their choice has been confirmed in a remarkable degree by a report of the trial of plums at the Chiswick Garden of the R.H.S. in 1901. At this trial on a soil that in a good year is said to suit them generally, ninety-five varieties were tested, and a good account was given of the following ten:—
Plums for Eating.
Rivers' Early Transparent Gage.—"Green or greenish yellow, flushed with red, the finest early dessert plum, a good cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous."—R.[9] August 21.
Dennistoun's Superb Gage.—"Green and of greengage flavour, a first-rate dessert variety, of exquisite flavour, cropping well as a bush tree in the open air, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 26.
Jefferson's.—"Fruit larger than the two former, yellow, covered with small red dots, habit erect, compact, very vigorous, the best 'all round' table kind, succeeds in every form."—R. September 6.
In the list of 1892 Belgian Purple was named as a plum for eating, but it is only fit for the table in warm seasons, "dark purple, of medium size, bears well, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 19.
PLUM—RIVERS' EARLY PROLIFIC
Rivers' Early Prolific, a dark purple fruit, rather small but one which comes in early so that it is often first in the market; thus the tree has time to rest and recover before winter. "A very early and valuable cooking plum; of fair quality for dessert, a great and constant bearer." The tree does not thrive everywhere, nor is it very vigorous.—R. July 23.
PLUM—CZAR
Rivers' Czar.—"Dark red or purple, of medium size, very good bearer, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 2.
Victoria, "Fruit large and bright red, very heavy cropper, the most popular plum and best for general purposes."—R. August 22.
Cox's Emperor, or Denbigh, or Denbigh Seedling, "a large dark red of the Orleans type, habit erect, compact, vigorous, a very good free bearing plum that always cooks well."—R. August 22.
Gisborne's (like Pershore), "Fruit deep yellow, rather large, habit erect, compact, vigorous, a great bearer."—Early September.
Rivers' Monarch, "Fruit large, bluish-purple, the best late C. (Cooking) plum, habit rather diffuse and vigorous."—R. September 13.
These ten varieties have borne the test of time, and won approval from the R.H.S. in 1892 and 1901. The descriptions are those of the R.H.S. Mr Lewis Castle omits Cox's Emperor and adds;—
Early Orleans, "medium size, reddish purple, good bearer and good C. variety, habit diffuse and moderately vigorous."—R. August 2.
Greengage.—If this is planted, choose July greengage, "rather large for a greengage, habit erect, compact, vigorous, better bearer than old G., fine-flavoured Dessert plum."—R. August 7.
Diamond, "very large, blue-black, very heavy cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, good C. plum."—R. August 23.
Pond's Seedling, "Fruit very large, deep red, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, rather late, free bearing C. plum."—R. September 7.
Prince Englebert, "Rather large, dark purple, habit erect, compact, vigorous, reliable C. plum."—R. August 13.
Coe's Golden Drop, "Fruit large, pale yellow, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, a delicious late D. plum, an indifferent bearer on bush trees, most reliable on walls."—R. September 13.
These remarks are based on the Report of trials at Chiswick in 1901.
If one plum only is wanted, choose Victoria, if three, Early Prolific, Victoria and Monarch; to these Dennistoun's Superb and Jefferson might be added for dessert if five are desired.
All these varieties may be planted as Standards, but are better as half-standards or bushes. If as cordons they must be two feet or more apart, and lifted about once in three years. There is no dwarfing plum stock like the paradise for apples or the quince for pears.
If the dessert varieties are on walls, special attention must be given to pruning and to root-pruning. The growth of coarse thick stems and branches is often fatal to the prospect of good crops.
Pruning and Training
Plums as a rule do not need nor will they bear as much close pruning as pears and apples. But they need special attention in early life.
Standards.—These must be planted, when other crops are to be grown beneath. Quincunx fashion :·: is the best. The rows, as a rule, should be 24 feet apart, and the trees in each row about 20 feet. Plums do not shade as much as apples and pears, yet it is always wise to avoid overcrowding. Some sorts are not as spreading or as vigorous as others. Weak growers like the Early Prolific might be placed between Jefferson and Monarch. Good trees in six or seven years should bring good returns, but the intermediate space may meanwhile be utilised for strawberries, gooseberries, and so on. Standards should be 6 feet high or more. After planting, cut back the shoots to about one-third of their length, the weakest still more, to promote vigorous growth, and cut just above an outer eye. Keep the centre open. In later years stop gross or robber shoots in June, clipping some leaves of the latter, if necessary. Never allow boughs to cross, and keep all the tree fairly open. When the tree begins to bear, little pruning is necessary. But stopping luxuriant shoots about midsummer is good for the other branches, and for the production of fruit buds before winter. Complete pruning early in August. In winter cut out dead wood, and shorten boughs wherever fresh wood is required. The wood of the Victoria plum is very brittle, and requires special treatment. Shorten the strong growing luxuriant branches of this variety in July; otherwise later on they will break when loaded with fruit. Messrs Bunyard's choice of six for market standards is: Rivers' Early Prolific, Czar, Early Orleans, Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Rivers' Monarch.
Half Standards (3½ feet to 4 feet high) are better, and more manageable. Planted 12 feet apart, gooseberries, etc., may be placed around them; otherwise they may be nearer, even up to 6 or 8 feet. These should be pruned in August unless strong shoots require pinching back. Stop new side shoots at the sixth leaf to produce fruit-buds. Avoid excess. Wounds made in August have a better chance of healing while the sap is still active. Pyramids are not as useful as bushes; the former require a central stem and special training.
In Bushes, keep the tree open, stop strong shoots at midsummer, prune new (side) shoots back to six leaves about mid-August, and take out wood that is not wanted, admitting the sun and air. In winter cut back any boughs where fresh shoots are wanted to a wood bud at an outer eye.
Trees on Walls.—Plums are usually put on east walls, but the best repay a south as well as a west aspect. They require and repay care and skill in training. If the wall is low, the horizontal form is best. The branches should be taken several inches below the line along which they are to be trained, and not at right angles; the sap will flow better, and the tendency of branches to die off will be lessened. The first branch should be 1 foot from the ground, the rest 9 inches apart. Coarse stems and branches must be avoided by moderate root-pruning. The wood must be kept near the wall, that wood and fruit may be better ripened. The fan system is better for a high wall. Train shoots on the tree from the nursery in regular order at equal intervals, cutting back only to ripe wood. Pick off growths on the side next the wall, and others badly placed. Lay in new wood every year, and in August or Early September cut out unsightly branches or spurs if there is other wood to replace them. Prune upper part of tree first, and encourage foliage and fruit spurs over every part. Stop strong growing branches at midsummer, and pinch back side shoots to six leaves about mid-August. Fruit buds will follow. Wire on the wall should be 1½ inch out, with an interval of 1 foot between each wire.
Manures
The absence of moisture and the consequent exhaustion have a serious effect on plums, and should never be allowed. Mulch newly-planted trees in light or poor soil; give liquid manure or irrigate in dry weather. Should the crops be heavy, and the soil at all deficient in lime, the deficiency should be made up by scattering lime some distance around the stems and working it gently in. "An annual dressing of decayed vegetable matter, old manure and lime-rubbish, laid about a yard round the stems, produces very satisfactory results" ("Plums for profit"). Supply this in November. The artificials recommended by R.H.S. for pears are also good for plums. Dr Griffiths recommends cow dung and a mixed manure, composed of 5 parts of kainit, 1 part of magnesium sulphate, 2 parts of superphosphate; 7 lbs. of the mixture to be applied to each tree in autumn, two more pounds in the spring.
Established trees in full health need no aid in an ordinary season if they carry no crop. Damsons should be fed as well as plums.
Thinning
must be carried out severely if the crop is thick. In a good plum season, only very fine and first-rate fruits fetch a good price, and these can only be obtained by thinning the fruit and feeding the trees. An annual crop (if frost does not interfere) may then be expected. Half the crop in some years should be taken off long before the fruit is ripe. The jam-makers utilise green and half-ripe plums.
Gages
These are dessert plums, some of the highest excellence, but they usually require a wall or the best soil and situation. The demand for them is very great. Preserved with proper care, they last until plums come again, and often fetch a higher price than the red or dark plums.
The following are the five best:—
1. July Greengage (see before) early in August.
2. Dennistoun's Superb (see before) mid-August.
3. Early Transparent (see before) end of August.
4. Reine Claude Comte d'Althann, briefly Comte d'Althann, a comparatively new plum from Bohemia. First-class certificate R.H.S. "Medium to large, greyish green, deeply flushed and dotted with red, covered with a beautiful white bloom, very heavy crop, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, remarkably good dessert plum, succeeding equally well as a wall tree, bush, or standard, remarkably prolific." R.H.S., R. August 22.
5. Jefferson (see before).
6. If more are wanted M'Laughlin's Gage is "rather large, pale yellow, flushed with red, a good cropper, habit erect, compact, vigorous, one of the finest dessert plums." R. August 17.
7. Guthrie's Late Green, "very good cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, a most delicious dessert plum." R. August 30.
Nos. 2, 5 and 6 are splendid specimens of American plums, No. 7 is Scotch, named after the late Mr Guthrie of Dundee.
The following are well known but not so good in some respects: Bryanston Gage, Oullin's Golden Gage, Golden Transparent. Coe's Golden Drop has been described. Angelina Burdett is sometimes classed with the gages. It is "dark red, shaded with purple, a good cropper, habit bushy and compact, a delicious dessert variety that hangs well in the trees for some time after it is ripe." R. August 22.
Market Plums
If a planter prefers to grow gages, he must protect his trees from bullfinches and other birds. The former often carry off the buds in winter, and ruin all hopes of a crop. Such a plantation near a wood would usually be a failure. If the trees are washed in early winter with No. II. mixture, the buds will have some protection. Lime should be thrown over the branches on a damp day. The gun in many cases must be at work from dawn to dusk. The gardener must learn to distinguish between friend and foe. Mr Lea's list in "Small Farms in the Midlands" is as follows: Early Prolific, Victoria, Black Diamond ("the wood is remarkably tough"), Pond's Seedling ("tolerably tough"), Pershore Egg Plum, i.e. Gisborne ("hardiest of all plums, surest cropper, comes early into bearing, the wood tough, and though the price is low, pays well"). He also mentions Prince Englebert and Jemmy Moore ("alias Cox's Emperor, alias Denbigh"), but wisely adds, these come in about the same time as Victoria, when there is a glut. Early or late varieties usually sell best. A new variety, Bittern, raised (as so many varieties have been) at Sawbridgeworth, by the late Francis Rivers, seems well worth trying: "Fruit rather large, deep purple, very heavy crop, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, excellent early free-bearing variety. R. August 2."
Curlew is another "early free-cropping purple plum, habit erect, vigorous," also raised by Francis Rivers. Monarch is a late, good, and very saleable plum. It is said that 75 per cent. or more of the plums planted in recent years have been Victorias. Planters should avoid the Victoria glut. Pond's Seedling, red and very large, coming in after Victoria, often sells well. Put up in a small basket it is inviting, and sells for an eating though properly a cooking plum. Early Prolific is also largely planted, but does not suit all soils. The white Magnum Bonum or egg plum (very large), good for cooking and preserving, sells well in London, but needs a strong soil. It is an early September fruit. Wyedale is popular in Yorkshire, valuable for its lateness, and for keeping sound on the trees when ripe; its habit is diffuse, size rather small, a good cropper. Mr Pearson names Goliath, a large reddish purple plum, "a good cropper, habit diffuse and vigorous, a very useful cooking plum. R. September 7."
At the Plum Congress held at Edinburgh in September 1889 an election of sorts was made with the following result:—
| Dessert Plums | |
| Votes. | |
| Jefferson | 72 |
| Coe's Golden Drop | 69 |
| Green Gage | 57 |
| Kirke's | 57 |
| Early Transparent | 25 |
| Oullin's Golden Gage | 16 |
| Reine Claude de Bavay | 14 |
| Culinary | |
| Votes. | |
| Victoria | 74 |
| Pond's Seedling | 54 |
| White Magnum Bonum | 52 |
| Early Prolific | 40 |
| Goliath | 31 |
| Early Orleans | 27 |
The friend who sent me this list remarks: "Newer plums supersede some of these. Czar does not crack with the wet as Orleans does. I prefer Diamond to Goliath." Kirke's is better on a wall than in the open. The same may be said of Oullin's; neither are grand croppers. Reine Claude de Bavay is a late gage, richly flavoured, but not a good cropper.
Gathering, Packing, Marketing
A step ladder or a Heathman's combined ladder is best for gathering as plum wood is often brittle. Look over the trees several times and gather gradually. Fruit for home use should not be gathered until it is ripe, but for market it should not be quite ripe. Early morning when the fruit is cool is the best time. Dessert fruits generally should be handled as little as possible, otherwise the bloom on them and the appearance are spoilt. Plums are often sent away in round baskets, or oblong flat baskets. The former in the London markets are termed sieves or half-sieves. A sieve holds seven imperial gallons; the diameter is 15 inches, the depth 8 inches. Flat baskets with lids protect the fruit from injury. Stout and strong paper, above, below and around, assist in saving it. Oblong baskets with handles and without a lid are used in the Midlands and the N. They are called "pots," and local inquiry as to weight should be made. Strong brown paper is useful on the top. The cost per ream is from 10s. to 20s. But non-returnable boxes are better. The baskets are often missing or lost. The sizes of unplaned boxes with lids to be nailed on are usually as follows:—[10]
| Gross. | Doz. | ||||
| lbs. | Length. | Width. | Depth. | s. d. | s. d. |
| 14 | 10¾ in. | 10½ in. | 6¼ in. | 26 6 | 2 6 |
| 28 | 22 in. | 10¾ in. | 6¼ in. | 46 0 | 4 2 |
| 42 | 27 in. | 15 in. | 8 in. | 84 0 | 7 6 |
| —Glover. |
Choice dessert plums sent in light boxes (one or two layers only in a box) placed in wood-wool, and with tissue paper covering the inside of the box, and lying between each layer, often sell well. White paper-lace (such as is used for honey sections) sets off good fruit, and makes it more attractive. Pink tissue paper is often used for light fruits. The boxes should be uniform in size and quality of fruit as far as possible. Tissue paper can be bought at 2s. 6d. to 5s. or more a ream, and should not be grudged. The best wood-wool ranges from 18s. to 25s. per cwt. A few visits to Covent Garden, the best shops, and the Crystal Palace Fruit Shows, will not be time or labour lost.
Plums and damsons for market should be gathered and sent before they are quite ripe; if soft and pulpy on arrival, they are valueless. Sort in size and quality as even as possible: keep back all inferior stuff. Only good produce, well sorted and properly packed, placed on the market in good condition, is likely to sell well. Foreigners as well as neighbours compete for custom. In large establishments a packing room with every convenience close at hand is necessary.[11] The market-agent should daily advise what goods are needed.
Storing and Keeping
Plums, as a rule, do not remain good for any length of time after being gathered. They will however last a week or two if laid out in a cool, dark, well constructed place. Slate slabs assist to keep baskets and fruit cool. Some of the late dessert varieties gathered before they are quite ripe, wrapped in paper, will last in a dry place for a long period. Dr Hogg says that "Ickworth Impératrice," a large late dessert variety, if allowed to remain on the tree until it shrivels, then wrapt in silk paper and placed in a dry shelf, will last for many weeks. It is a richly-flavoured plum. The remark is probably true of other late varieties; e.g., the lovely Golden Transparent, "a delicious plum grown against a wall, but not a success in the open" (R. September 12), or Reine Claude de Bavay, which is late, but a poor bearer. The Ickworth Impératrice was not tested by the R.H.S., and is not now often grown. Guthrie's late Green, "a most delicious dessert plum and the heaviest cropper here (i.e. Chiswick R.H.S.) of all the gages," is probably one of the best sorts for keeping as described above. Angelina Burdett (see gages) "if allowed to hang till it shrivels becomes a perfect sweetmeat" (Hogg).
Insect Enemies
1. Aphides are often a great trouble. There are three sorts or more, one called the plum aphis. They attack in spring and cause the leaves to curl up, and so check growth. Steep 4 ozs. of quassia chips in a gallon of soft water for twenty-four hours. Dissolve 2 ozs. of soft soap in this mixture, and add to the infusion. Apply by a painter's brush, and carefully wash the under side of the leaves (Rivers). On a larger scale: "Boil 1 lb. of chips in a gallon of water for twenty minutes, strain off the chips and add 38 gallons of water. Put 1 lb. of soft soap in a gallon of water until dissolved, then add to the rest. Apply by a syringe or sprayer. Where the foliage is young follow the spraying by syringing half-an-hour afterwards" (Castle). Tobacco water made as follows is also a good remedy: "Pour soft boiling water at the rate 1 gallon to 2 ozs. of the strongest shag tobacco, allow it to stand till cool. Its efficacy is increased by dissolving 2 ozs. of soft soap in each gallon at the time it is poured on the tobacco" (Wright). This mixture may be applied with some force by the garden engine. The great point is to syringe or paint with one of these remedies as soon as the evil is perceived.
2. Red Grub is often very injurious. The moth measures about ½ inch across, the caterpillars are pale red, with brown neck and black head. They pierce and drop with the fruit, seek shelter in the bark, where they spin a cocoon and pass the winter. If the trees have been scraped, then washed with a mixture of lime and soot, paraffin and grease (see No. III. pears), or sprayed before the buds open with Bordeaux mixture (see No. II.), and also afterwards, they probably will not suffer. Lime and soot scattered over the ground under the trees will also be useful. If the plums are attacked, collect all fallen fruits and shake the trees every morning, burn the fruits affected or give them to the pigs.
3. The Plum Sawfly also attacks the fruit, laying an egg in the calyx of each flower. The grub is whitish, with brown head. It enters the fruits, feeds on the stone, and causes them to drop. A spraying of the modified mixture No. II. after the fruit has set would be useful, but as the grub pupates in the soil, lime and soot will again be serviceable. Collect and destroy fallen fruit daily.
4. Red Spider, a spinning mite, is a great pest in dry summers. It must be checked by the free use of the syringe or water engine as soon as seen. Yellow spots on the leaves are a proof of its presence. Mix 4 gallons of soft soap solution with ½ lb. of flowers of sulphur; apply with syringe. Strong soap-suds, or even clear water forcibly given are better than nothing.
Fungoid attacks injure the trees. The Bordeaux mixture (No. II.) is the best preventive and remedy if there are any signs of fungus. Cut away all diseased twigs, boughs and branches, and burn them. Fungus spores are scattered by the wind and spread the disease. Drench the trunk and bark in winter with this mixture before the buds swell. Care must be taken not to apply the mixture in full strength to tender leaves and buds.
For the fungus mildew, half an ounce of sulphide of potassium mixed in a gallon of water and applied by a syringe is recommended (Wright). Finely-powdered quick-lime mixed with sulphur (double the quantity of the former), and distributed by a special bellows (see before, page 39), is also said to be a good remedy.
For dimensions see under pears. Plums are best in pots or tubs, as they can be taken out when at rest. They are very liable to attacks from aphides, but the insecticide for pears in pots is good also for plums. The house must be fumigated, and the trees syringed on the least appearance of aphis. Place the pots on bricks (v. pears). When growth is being started the temperature should be from 45° at night to 50° by day. Soft or tepid water should be given freely. Fumigate again just before the flowers come out. As the buds increase, raise the temperature 5° to 10° and syringe once or twice a day with tepid water. But a dry atmosphere is important while the trees are in flower. Admit air as well as bees in the forenoon, and pass a camel-hair or light brush over the flowers about the middle of the day. When the fruit is set, syringe at least once a day; if the weather is hot, twice or even three times a day, and give all the air possible. Thin the fruits (if the crop is large) with scissors; mulch and feed with weak liquid manure (see pears). The shoots must be pinched if the trees are of any age, at the fifth or sixth leaf. Not much heat is needed generally, but when the stoning period is passed, the ripening process may be hastened by a higher temperature. The house may be closed at an earlier hour if necessary. Avoid extremes. As the fruits ripen, cease gradually to syringe, but keep the house moist by sprinkling water over the paths, etc. Choose the choicest dessert sorts: Early Transparent, Dennistoun's Superb, July Greengage, Jefferson, Count Althann, Coe's Golden Drop, Guthrie's Late Green, Angelina Burdett, Bryanstone Gage, and Golden Transparent; and if darker colours are desired: Early Prolific, Belgian Purple and Czar. Bryanston Gage was recommended by the R.H.S. in 1892, and is a very richly-flavoured dessert variety, but is not a good cropper in the open, and needs a wall or house.
Damsons
are often very valuable, and also make good outside hedges. Bradley's "King of the Damsons" is the best. The fruit is large, the tree "free-cropping, bushy, vigorous, erect." R. September 20. Frogmore Prolific (earlier) is also large and free-bearing. R. September 9. Both these are late. Mirabelle and Rivers' Early Damson are August damsons, small, the former vigorous.
Bullaces
Shepherd's is the best, and hangs late on the tree. A few trees in a large garden are useful. R. September 20.
Important Points
Good sorts on suitable stocks in good soil and proper aspect; lime in the soil, added or otherwise; winter washing or spraying; thinning fruit; early training; moderate pruning; root-pruning in very strong soils; lifting in shallow soils; liquid and other manures; immediate action if aphides or red spider appear.
Drying by Evaporation
This important subject cannot be treated here at length. In a hot season with abundant crops, good results may be obtained with some prospect of profit. But the apparatus has been expensive. Mr Udale's Report to the Worcestershire C.C. on dried fruits, vegetables and herbs, with the article in Journal of R.H.S., vol. xxvi., part ii., should be consulted, and "Fruit Preserving," by R.L.C., in Watson, vol. v. Thick-skinned plums, e.g., Czar, Prince Englebert, Diamond and Monarch are best for the purpose. Plums placed on trays, dried in a very slow oven, and allowed to cool several times, are often equal to French prunes.
Bottling
This is a simple and most useful process. Plums well bottled will last for years. Gather clean and dry fruit before it is quite ripe, that the heat may not crack the plums. Remove the stalks and pack closely in bottles not over 11 inches high, without bruising, up to shoulder of bottle. Provide a boiler a foot deep; place hay or canvas at the bottom, then put the bottles in the boiler with hay or canvas around them to prevent fracture. Now fill the boiler up to the necks of the bottles, and place it on a slow fire. Heat very gradually until the water is at boiling point. Then take each bottle out with a cloth, fill with boiling water kept close at hand, and cover while boiling with air-tight stoppers. Another method is to fill the bottles nearly full with cold water or thin syrup, and boil for fifteen minutes. Messrs De Luca have received silver and bronze medals from the R.H.S. for self-closing bottles now sold by Messrs Abbott of Southall, near London. Their method is as follows: "Pour in water or cold thin syrup (one tablespoonful of crystalised cane-sugar to the pint) sufficient to cover the fruit. Adjust the indiarubber in the groove made for it on neck of the bottle, place the disc on it, and lightly screw down the outer ring. (Steam must be allowed to escape.) Boil as before for twenty minutes; take out each bottle, and at once screw the outer ring as tightly as possible. Leave bottles until cold. Next day examine by unscrewing the outer ring, and try whether the disc is firmly fastened down. If so, replace the ring, screw down tightly and store away in a cool place, standing them upright. The bottles by having new discs and indiarubber rings may be frequently used."
The Rev. W. Wilks, secretary of the R.H.S., recommends pears, especially Pitmaston D., as suitable for bottling. "Bottled it is delicious." He thinks fifteen minutes from the time the water boils sufficient for plums. Messrs De Luca mention an hour as the time for pears.
Messrs Lee & Co. of 19 Knightrider St., Maidstone, have received medals from the R.H.S. and others for their fruit bottling apparatus and bottled fruit.
They supply a patent economic fruit bottling apparatus at 21s. A thermometer at the side records the temperature of the bottles and of their contents. The following is the method given in the Journal of the R.H.S.
"The fruit must, of course, be fresh and good and the bottles clean. The fruit is first packed into the bottles, which are then filled up to the neck with cold water, or if preferred, with thin syrup made by dissolving ½ lb. of loaf-sugar in hot water and leaving it to cool. The bottles are then put into the cooking pot where they must remain for certainly not less than two hours at a temperature of between a minimum of 145 degrees and a maximum of 160 degrees. This low sterilising temperature being maintained for two, three, or four hours will destroy all germs without cooking the fruit, and is the great secret of successful bottling. No actual harm is done by the heat rising above 160 degrees, but if it does the fruit will probably burst, lose its shape, and not look so nice. Vegetables may be preserved in exactly the same way, but they must be done twice over with an interval of twenty-four hours to allow of their becoming quite cold. Jams and fruit jellies can be preserved fresh and good for years in the same way."
Success in bottling and preserving fruit depends chiefly on two points: (1) The destruction of every germ of mildew, etc., by keeping the bottles at a certain temperature for a certain time; (2) the absolute prevention of any possible re-entry of air into the bottles afterwards. The bottles must be hermetically sealed while in the steam or standing in almost boiling water (see Journal R.H.S., vol. xxvi. part iii. p. 365).
Bottling or Canning in Syrup.—This is done by boiling together at the rate of 3 lbs. of cane-sugar to 1 quart of water and the white of 1 egg; pour the fruit whole into the syrup while boiling, and continue to boil together for only a few minutes, then pour into bottles or cans, and stopper or seal air-tight immediately whilst boiling. Pears may be preserved in the same way. Cheal, Journal of R.H.S., vol. xxi. 1.
Plum Jam makes a rich preserve. Take equal quantities of fruit and cane-sugar; boil quickly half to three-quarters of an hour, then put into hot jars and cover well at once. Exclude the air as much as possible. The colour of the flesh is said to make a difference in the sale. Red jam is usually preferred, but greengage is also popular. Coe's Golden Drop or Autumn Compôte (September, hardy, fairly productive, but the fruit often splits) are good for yellow ("Amber"—Dr Hogg) jam; Belle de Septembre (September, "a good late cooking variety," good bearer, but fruit prone to split) for crimson colour. Free-stones are better than cling-stones. The following are free-stones: Bittern, Coe's Late Red ("fruit small, good bearer, a very useful late cooking plum"), Early Orleans, Early Transparent Gage, Old Greengage, Orleans, Oullin's Golden Gage, Red Magnum Bonum, Comte d'Althann, Victoria. The following are nearly so: Early Prolific, Czar, Cox's Emperor, Jefferson.
Belle de Septembre is a cling-stone. Damsons make good jam, the colour being a dark rich red.
Plum Jelly
Plums are rich in "vegetable jelly." 1. Boil alone for half-an-hour, then strain the juice through a fine sieve or cloth; add 2 lbs. of cane-sugar to each quart of juice, boil again for twenty minutes, pour into jars and glasses, cover at once. A firm, clear and bright jelly should result (Watson).
2. "During the preserving season I generally have a few pots of jelly made from each pan of preserves without spoiling my jams. I make currant, gooseberry, and plum jelly this way.
"For all common preserves I allow ¾ of a pound of loaf-sugar to each pound of fruit. The sugar must be broken small. Put the fruit and sugar into your pan, let the sugar melt, then boil quickly for twenty to thirty minutes. Skim carefully, take the pan off the fire, take from it three or four cupfuls of juice, or as much as you think can be spared without making your jam dry. Strain the juice through a small gravy sieve into small jars. This will be found to jelly well. In this way a nice stock of jelly can be procured, and no fruit is wasted." (From Weldon's "Menu Cookery Book," 1s., published by Weldon, 31 Southampton Street, Strand.)