Part IX. Pests and Diseases of Plants
Control of Grasshoppers.
This county is having trouble with the grasshoppers as are other counties. Would you kindly inform me what I could do to exterminate them on my young orchard?
The best thing for grasshoppers is to fix up a lot of poison. This is made in the proportion of 40 pounds of bran, 2 pounds of molasses and 5 of arsenic, mixed together as a mash. They will take this wherever they find it, even when nice green leaves are close by, but it has to be kept moist. Grasshoppers can also be reduced by driving a "hopper doser" over ground where they are. This is made somewhat like a Fresno scraper, but is much longer and the bottom is covered with crude oil. When disturbed the hoppers jump up and fall into the oil. Besides the poison, you should also protect the trunk of the tree to prevent the hoppers from climbing up it. This can be done by applying tree tanglefoot, or putting on one of the tree guards that prevent climbing insects from passing up to the leaves. The combination of poison and tree guards will give you about all the protection you need.
Sunburn and Borers.
Please state the best remedy for keeping the borer out of young fruit trees.
Sunburn can be prevented in many ways. The manufactured tree-protectors are good if they are light colored and are kept in place so that the sun does not scald above or below them. Wrapping spirally with narrow strips of burlap, torn from old grain sacks, from the base to the forking of the branches, is also good. A very effective and widely used method is to apply a good durable whitewash which may be made of 30 pounds of lime, 4 pounds of tallow and 5 pounds of salt, adding the salt to the water used in slaking the lime, stirring in the tallow while the slaking is in progress and hot, and then adding water to thin the wash so that it will work well with pump or brush.
Gumming of Prune Trees.
I write to ask for information concerning my prune trees. They are from two to six years old and the gum is exuding from them. As I notice the branches dying I cut them out, but this doesn't seem to save the tree. I would appreciate any information you can give me.
This is a pretty hard matter to diagnose from a distance. There is a good probability that the trouble is caused by sunburn, a point you could determine on inspection. Whitewash would be a protection against this and more or less of a cure also. Furthermore, borers may be the cause, which can be determined by examining the points where the gum exudes, seeing if any wood grains are present. These borers should be dug out and whitewash applied, which latter also protects against this trouble. Lastly, your ground may be drying out, which also you can determine and remedy.
Borers in Olive Twigs.
There are quite a number of olive trees in this locality that have something wrong with them. They make a growth of five or six inches and the center twig dies back, then it sprouts out at the sides and makes another growth in the same way. This makes a thick bush instead of the tree coming up as it should.
The dying back is caused by a beetle which bores into the twigs. The twigs above the point where the beetle enters dies and then, of course, buds come out from healthy wood below. No treatment has been devised against it, though its breeding ground is limited if all dead wood and brush and litter is cleaned up and twigs are cut off below the point of injury whenever the work of the insect is seen.
Raspberry Cane Borer.
Can you tell me what to do for my Loganberries and raspberries? A small worm got into them in the new growth of wood lost summer, right in the tips of the new growth of wood, and then worked down through the pith of the wood, and as fast as they worked down the can wilted.
This is the raspberry horn-tail, or the cane-borer. The adults are wasp-like insects about a half-inch long and very active. They come out of the canes in spring and the females soon lay eggs in the tender tips of the young shoots. These eggs soon hatch and the larvae eat their way up toward the tip, which causes it to wither and die. It is this injury that causes much notice. As the tip dies, the larvae turn and go down into the canes, as in the sample sent, also injuring them greatly, though possibly not killing them for some time. The only way to attack them is to pinch the spots where the eggs were laid; then those that escape and cause the tips to wilt should be destroyed by cutting off the tips below the point of injury or cutting off the canes when they show damage. Likewise, the insects work on the wild rose, and cutting all those out around a place will prevent enough adults from developing to permit little damage to be done, always provided the berries are well looked after.
Control of Red Spider.
Can you give directions for the prevention of injury by the red spider to almond and other trees in the Sacramento volley?
The red spider on almond and prune trees is usually controlled by the thorough application of dry sulphur to the foliage. On almonds the first sulphuring should be done as soon as the leaves appear in March. A second application is advised from the 1st to the 10th of May. A third application should be made from the 1st to the 10th of June. Prune trees should be treated as soon as the spider appears. In the Sacramento valley this usually occurs about the first week of July. Full-grown trees require about a pound of sulphur which should be thoroughly distributed throughout the foliage. The old method of throwing a handful of sulphur in the branches of the tree or on the ground under the tree is valueless. The use of a blower is economical in large orchards, but a can with perforated bottom is frequently used on young trees or small orchards with good results. In normal seasons the spider is easily, controlled by dry sulphuring. When the pest does not yield to this treatment, a spray is recommended.
Liquid Spray for Red Spider.
Is there any liquid spray I can use in my spraying that will kill the red spider without injuring the foliage of the almond?
A liquid spray for red spider is made by taking sulphur 30 pounds; lime (reduced to milk form by water), 15 pounds; water, 200 gallons; or use commercial lime-sulphur, 4 or 5 gallons to 200 gallons of water. These sprays can be applied without injuring the foliage. They are more expensive in labor cost than dry sulphuring, but are more effective.
Apple-Leaf Aphis.
I am sending herewith a small piece from one of my young apple trees. If you can, will you kindly tell me what the insects are an it, and what I had better do for them?
The apple twig which you send is infested with the eggs of the leaf aphis or leaf louse. These eggs are very difficult to kill. A good thorough spraying with lime-sulphur might, however, get rid of many of them and would be good for the trees otherwise - diluting according to condition of tree growth. The chief campaign against the leaf aphis, however, must be made early in the growing season, just as these pests are beginning to hatch out and to accumulate under the leaves of the new growth. They should then be attacked with properly made kerosene emulsion or tobacco extract with a nozzle suited to land the spray on the under side of the leaves. Unless these pests are attacked early in the season and repeated if necessary, your apples on bearing trees will be ruined so far as they attack them, being small, misshaped and worthless. On young trees the destruction of the foliage is fatal to good growth.
Woolly Aphis.
Will you kindly inform me what you consider the best treatment for apple trees affected by woolly aphis?
The best way to kill the woolly aphis on the roots is to remove the earth from around the tree to a distance of one or two feet, according to the size of the tree, digging away a few inches of the surface soil, Then soak the soil around the tree with kerosene emulsion, properly made, of 15 per cent strength, and replace the earth. Be sure you get a good emulsion, for free oil is dangerous. For the insects above ground on the twigs, a good spraying while the tree is out of leaf will kill many, but some will survive for summer spraying, and for this a tobacco spray may be most convenient.
Blister Mite on Walnuts.
I am sending you some walnut leaves with some swellings an them. They are very plentiful on some trees here. Is the trouble serious and will it spread?
This is merely Erinose, or Blister Mite, which is a very common trouble on walnuts, but does not do enough damage to call for methods of control. These swellings are caused by numerous, very small insects which live within the blisters on the under side of the leaf amongst a felt-like, heavy growth which develops there. While this effect is very common, it produces no appreciable injury and needs no treatment for its control.
Scale on Apricots.
I would like to know how to check the scale on apricot trees.
The most common scale on apricots, the brown apricot scale, is usually held in check by the comys fusca, which is as widely distributed as the scale itself. If it gets beyond the parasite, you should spray in winter with crude oil emulsion. If some scales are punctured or have a black spot on top, the comys fusca is busy and you probably will be safe enough without doing anything.
Fumigating for Black Scale.
I would like to know the best method of eradicating the black scale from my orange trees, whether by spraying or fumigation?
Spraying has been given up as a suitable method for controlling the black scale on citrus trees, and the only recognized method of merit where the scale is bad is by fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas. You should communicate with your county horticultural commissioner, who, through inspectors, will see that you have a good job done, at the right time and at as moderate price as is compatible with good work. It is impossible to 'eradicate' the black scale, but there is a great difference in the amount that can be killed, and it pays to have a job done as near perfectly as possible. Similar methods of attacking other scale insects on citrus trees are used.
Finding Thrips.
How can the presence of pear thrips be detected in a prune orchard? Will the distillate emulsion-nicotine spray control brown scale as well as thrips?
You can find thrips by shaking a cluster of blossoms, as soon as they open, over a sheet of paper or in the palm of your hand. The thrips are very minute, transparent, somewhat louse-like insects. The spray you mention would probably have little effect on the brown scale which would still be in the egg state and under cover, at the time the early spring spraying for the thrips.
Control of Pear Slug.
I am sending, under separate cover, some samples of cherry tree leaves that have been attacked by a small snail or slug. Kindly let me know what they are, and how to rid the trees of them.
The creatures you speak of are the pear slugs, or the cherry slugs, as they are sometimes known. Although slimy, like the big yellow slug that is a pest in vegetable gardens, it is no relation thereto, but is the larva of an insect. Its olive green color, slimy appearance and the way it eats the surface of the leaves make it about the easiest of all insects to identify. Parasites and predacious insects usually keep it in fair control. Whenever artificial methods of control are needed the slugs can best be destroyed by sprinkling dust of any kind upon them. If you can get a machine for sulphuring a vineyard and use some air slaked lime or other fine dust, it will fix them quickly and inexpensively, though any way of applying dust may be used.
Cutworms and Young Trees.
What method should be used to protect young fruit trees from cutworms?
Hoe around the trees or vines and kill the fat, greasy grubs which you will find near the foliage. Put out a poisoned bait which the worms like better than the foliage, viz. Bran, 10 pounds; white arsenic, 1/2 pound; molasses, 1/2 gallon; water, 2 gallons. Mix the arsenic with the bran dry. Add the molasses to the water and mix into the bran, making a moist paste. Put a tablespoonful near the base of the tree or vine and lock up the chickens.
Control of Squash Bugs.
We are troubled with pumpkin bugs. Please tell us what to do for them.
When the bugs first make their appearance in the field they can be easily disposed of by hand picking and dropping into a bucket containing about two inches of water with about one-fourth inch of kerosene on top to kill the bugs. The picking should be done in the morning, as the bugs are apt to fly in the warm part of the day and scatter where already picked. Two persons can pick over an acre in one and a half hours, and two pickings are usually sufficient for a season, as after the vines begin to run over the ground pretty well the bugs will not be able to hurt them much. A pair of thin old gloves will help to keep off one's hands some of the perfume from the bugs. The sooner the work starts the fewer bugs to pick. Cleaning up of all old vines in the fall and removing litter in which the mature bugs hide for the winter will permit less eggs to be laid in the spring and there will be fewer bugs to pick as a result.
The Corn Worm.
Last year all my ears of corn were infested with maggot, growing fat thereon. Can you help me scare them away?
You have to do with the so-called corn worm which is very abundant in this State and one of the greatest pests to corn growing. It is the same insect which is known as the boll worm of the cotton in the Southern States. No satisfactory method of controlling this has been found, although a great deal of experimentation has been done. Nearly everything that could be thought of has been tried without very satisfactory results. A late planted corn has sometimes been free, for the insect is not in the laying stage then. If it were not for this insect the canning of corn would be an important industry in this State.
Melon Lice.
I have in about four acres of watermelons, and there seem to be lice and a small gnat or fly, and also some small green bugs and white worms on the under part of the leaves, which seem to be stopping the growth of the vines, making them wilt and die. They seem to be more in patches, although a few on all the vines. Can you please tell me what to do for them?
Melon lice are very hard to catch up with after you have let them get a start. Spraying with oil emulsions, tobacco extracts, soap solutions, etc., will all kill the lice if you get it onto them with a good spray pump and suitable nozzles for reaching the under sides of the leaves. The gnats you speak of are the winged forms of the lice; the white worms may be eating the lice; the "small green bugs" may be diabroticas. If you had started in lively as soon as you saw the first lice you could have destroyed them in the places where they started. Now your chance lies largely in the natural multiplication of ladybirds and the occurrence of hot winds which will burn up the lice. It is too late probably, to undertake spraying the whole field.
Wire Worms.
Is there any way to destroy or overcome the destructive work of the wireworm, which I find in some spots takes the lion's share of crops, such as beans, potatoes, onions, etc.?
We do not know any easy way with wire worms. Nitrate of soda is believed to kill or repel them, but you have to be careful with it, for too much will either over-stimulate or kill the kill; about 200 pounds per acre, well distributed, is the usual prescription for the good of the plants. Wire worms can probably be killed with carbon bisulphide, using a tablespoonful poured into holes about a foot deep, three or four feet apart. The vapor would permeate the soil and kill all ground insects, but the acre-cost of such treatment must be measured in its relation to the value of the crop. The most promising policy with wire worms is rotation of crops, starving them out with a grain or grass crop and not growing such crops as you mention continually on the same land.
Bean Weevil.
How can I keep certain insects from getting into my dry beans? I have finished picking the crop. Every year a little, short, stubby beetle gets in them before spring and makes them unfit for use.
You have to do with the bean weevil. The eggs are inserted by the insect while the beans are still green in the pods; subsequently the eggs hatch and the worm excavates the interior of the ripened beans. The beans can be protected after ripening by heating carefully to 130° Fahrenheit, which will destroy the egg, or the larva if already hatched. Of course, this heating must be done cautiously and with the aid of a good thermometer for fear of destroying the germinating power. The work of the insect can also be stopped by putting the beans in a barrel or other close receptacle, with a saucer containing about an ounce of carbon bi-sulfid to vaporize. Be careful not to approach the vapor with a light. After treatment for one-half hour, the cover can be removed and the vapor will entirely dissipate. This is a safer treatment than the heating. Similar methods of control can be used on other pea and bean weevils.
Slugs in Garden.
Can you advise me how I can get rid of slugs in my garden?
When barriers of lime, ashes, etc., are ineffective, traps consisting of pieces of board sacking and similar materials placed about the field prove inviting to the slugs. They collect under these and by going over the field in the early morning they may be put into a salt-water solution or otherwise destroyed. Arsenical sprays applied with an underspray nozzle to the lower surface of the leaves will help control the slugs. Poison bran mash consisting of 16 pounds of coarse bran, 2 quarts of cheap syrup, and enough warm water to make a coarse mash, is very good for cutworms and should be equally effective for slugs. It should be placed in small heaps about the plants to be protected. Cabbage leaves dipped in grease drippings and placed about the fields also prove attractive bait for the slugs, which may then be collected there. If a person has a taste for poultry, the keeping of a few ducks may solve the slug problem without further bother. Cultivation or irrigation methods that give a dry surface most of the time also discourage these pests.
Cause of Mottle Leaf.
What is the cause and cure of mottle leaf of citrus trees?
There are apparently a number of causes of this trouble, all more or less obscure and hard to overcome. It is generally thought that it is due to poor nutrition, whatever the reason for poor nutrition might be. The presence of a nematode or eel worm on the roots has found to be a cause of mottle leaf in many cases. Poor drainage, too sandy soil and a number of other things frequently cause it. Whatever the cause, no one good method of cure has been found.
Potato Scab.
I think most of my potatoes will have some scab. Will you please tell me if my next crop would be apt to have scab, provided I got good clean seed and planted in the same ground?
It seems demonstrated that a treatment of the seed will practically insure against potato scab. One method is dipping the potatoes in a solution of corrosive sublimate. Dissolve one ounce in eight gallons of water and soak the seed potatoes in this solution for one and one-half hours before cutting.
Gopher Poison.
I have some alfalfa, some hogs and some gophers, also some strychnine and carrots. If I put the strychnine on the carrots, and endeavor to poison the gophers, and the hogs get hold of the poison will it kill them?
You will find that hogs are liable to poison like any other animal, and the safest way to poison the gophers, while the hogs are running in the field is to bury the poisoned carrots very deeply in the gopher hole and then put a row of sticks or branches over the mouth of the hole so that the hogs cannot root around and get at the poisoned carrots.
How to Make Bordeaux.
Use copper sulphate (bluestone) 5 pounds; quick-lime (good stone lime), 6 pounds; water, 50 gallons. Put the bluestone in a sack and hang it so it will be suspended just under the surface of a barrel of water over night, or dissolve in hot water. Use one gallon of water to one pound of bluestone. Slake the lime in a separate barrel, using just enough water to make a smooth, clean, thin whitewash. Stir this vigorously. Use wooden vessels only. Fill the spray tank half full of water, add one gallon of bluestone solution for each pound required, then strain in the lime and the remainder of the water and stir thoroughly. The formula may be varied according to conditions, using from 3 to 8 pounds of bluestone to 50 gallons of water and an equal or slight excess of lime. Use the stronger mixture in rainy weather. Keep the mixture constantly agitated while applying.
Formula for Lime-Sulphur.
To make lime-sulphur take quick-lime, 20 pounds; ground sulphur, 15 pounds and water 30 gallons. Slake the lime with hot water in a large kettle, add the sulphur and stir well together. After the violent slaking subsides add more water and boil the mixture over a fire for at least one hour. After boiling sufficiently strain into the spray tank and dilute with water to the proper strength. If a steam boiler is available, this mixture may be prepared more easily on a large scale by cooking in barrels into which steam pipes are introduced. This mixture cannot be applied safely except during the winter when the trees are dormant. A large proportion of the lime-sulphur used in the State is purchased already prepared in more concentrated form.
Index
Fruit Growing.
Almond
Grafting on Peach
Pruning
Budding and Grafting
Planting
Pollination
Roots for
Longevity of
Seedlings
Do Not Plant in Place
Stick-Tights
And Peach
Apples
Shy-Bearing
Not on Quince
Stock For
And Alfalfa
Top Grafting
Mildew on Seedlings
Pruning
Will They Be Same Kind
Places for
Grafting in Place
Resistant Roots
For Hot Place
Die-Back of
Storage of
Root-Grafts
Apricots
Pruning
Shy-Bearing
Propagation
Renewing Old
Summer Pruning
Bananas
In California
Berries
Pruning Himalayas
Hardiness of Hybrids
With Perfect Flowers
Pruning Loganberries
Strawberry Planting
Blackberries for Drying
Planting Bush Fruits
Strawberry Plants
Strawberries in Succession
Gooseberries, Limitations of
Carobs
In California
Cherries
For Hot Place
Wild
Pruning
Training Grafts
Restoring Tress
Pollination
Citron
Curing
Citrus Fruit
Temperatures
Filbert Roots
Filbert Growing
Figs
Stickers
No Gopher-Proof Roots
Trays, Cleaning
Fruit Trees
Depth of Soil
What Slopes
and Overflow
Roots for
and Sunburn
Budding
Starting from Seed
Square or Triangular Planting
Planting on Clearings
Dipping Roots of
Preparing for Planting
Depth of Planting
In Wet Place
Cutting Back at Planting
Branching Young
Coal Tar and Asphaltum
Regular Bearing of
Avoiding Crotches
Crotch-Splitting
Strengthening
Covering Wounds
Covering Sunburned Bark
Gravel Streak
Transplanting Old
Dwarfing
Seedling
Filling Holes in
Deferring Bloom
Repairing Rabbit Injuries
Crops Between
Scions for Mailing
Scions from Young Trees
Whitewashing
Deciduous Planting
On Coast Sands
Over Underflow
Grapefruit
and Nuts
Grapes
Dry Farming
Cutting Frosted Canes
Dipping Seedless
Zante Currant
Vines for Arbor
Pruning Old Vines
Bleeding Vines
Scant Moisture
Sulphuring for Mildew
Sugar in Canned
Planting
Grafting
Wax
June Drop
Killing Moss on Tree
Interplanting, Wrong idea
Lemons
Citrus Budding
No Citrus Fruits on Roots
Mulberries
Pruning and Grafting
Nursery Stock in Young Orchard
Orchard
Replanting
Plowing in Young
Pigs in
Forage Under Sprayed Trees
Oranges
Water and Frost
Thinning
Wind-Blown Trees
Handling Balled Trees
Navel Not Thornless
Over-Size
Budding or Grafting in Orchard
Under-Pruning Trees
Keeping Trees too Low
Dying Back of Trees
Young Trees Dropping Fruit
Training
Crops Between Trees
Navels and Valencias
Seedlings
Acres to One Man
Roots for Trees
Soil and Situation
Transplanting
Protecting Young Trees
Not on Osage
No Pollenizer for Navels
Water and Frost
Frosted, What to do
Pruning Frosted Trees
Pruning
Olives
Cultivating
Moving Old Trees
Darkening Pickled
Seedlings Must Be Grafted
Oranges and Peppers
Budding Seedlings
Budding Old
from Small Cuttings
from Large Cuttings
Trimming Up
Canning
Renewing Trees
Growing from Seed
Neglected Trees
Peaches
Lye-peeling
Aged Trees
Renewing Orchard
Will He Have
Fillers in Apple Orchard
Grafting on Almond
on Apricot
Replanting after Root Knot
Buds in Bearing Trees
Pollen Must Be Same Kind
Grafting on
Young Trees Fail to Start
Planting in Alfalfa Sod
Pecan Growing
Pears
Pollination of Bartletts
Comics
Not on Peach
Dwarf Pears
Yield in Drying
Problems
Blight and Bees
on Quince
Plowing, Young Orchard
Plums - Pollenizing
Prunes
On Almond
Re-grafting Silver
French or Italian
Myrobalan Seedlings
Drying
Sugar
Glossing Dried
Price on Size Basis
Pruning
Times
Shaping a Young Tree
Late
Too Much
In Frosty Places
Low Growth
Are Tap-Roots Essential
For a Bark Wound
Bridging Gopher Girdles
Roots, Whole or Piece
Soil, Binding Plant for Winter
Spineless Cactus Fruit
Stumps, Medication to Kill
Sucker, What will it Be
Walnuts
Early Bearing
Handling Seedlings
How to Start
Planting
Pruning
Grafting
on Oaks
Eastern or California Blacks
Ripening
Cutting Below Dead Wood
in Alfalfa
in the Hills
Increase Bearing
Temperature and Moisture
from Seed
High-grafted
Vegetable Growing.
Artichokes
Jerusalem
Globe
Growing
Asparagus Growing
Beets
Leases for Sugar
Topping Mangel Wurzels
Brussels Sprouts - Blooming
Bean
Growing
Hoeing
as Nitrogen Gatherer
Yard-Long
Why Waiting
Blackeye
Are Cow-Peas
Horse-Bean Growing
Growing Castor
Inoculation
On Irrigated Mesas
California Grown Seed
Cloth for Hotbeds
Celery, Blanching
Chili Peppers
Corn
in Sacramento Valley
in Warm Ground
Sweet, in California
Cucumbers
Forcing
Growing
Continuous Cropping
Ginger in California
In Cold, Dark, Draft
Licorice in California
Lentils, Growing
Lettuce, Transplanting
Melons
Winter
Ripe
Onions
Seeds and Sets
Ripening
from Sets
Crops from Seed
Peas
Canada for Seed
Growing Niles
Peanuts
Harvesting
and Adobe
Potatoes
Cutting
Planting
Northern Seed
Planted Early
Balls
Seed-ends
and the Moon
Planting Whole
How to Cut Seed
Scab
Double-cropping
Keeping
Yield
New for Seed
Growing
After Alfalfa
Flat or Hill
Bad Conditions for
On Heavy Land
Storage for Seed
and Frosts
Sweet, Plant Growing
Growing
Between Trees
Less Water, More Heat
Radish, Giant Japanese
Rhubarb, Rotting
Soil for Vegetables
Squashes Dislike Hardship
Sunflowers, Harvesting
Tomatoes
Irrigating
Big Worms
Loss of Bloom
Grain and Forage Crops
Alfalfa
Improving Land
Cultivating
Suburban Patch
and Bermuda
and Salt Grass
and Alkali
on Adobe
and Soil Depth
Irrigating
Curing
Preparation of Land
Where Grown
Sowing
and Foxtail
Which is Best
and Dry Land
Inoculating
Unirrigated
Time to Cut
and Overflow
No Nurse Crop
Re-seeding
Taking Bloat from
What Crop for Seed
Siloing First Crop
Soil For
Handling Young
With Gypsum
Alfileria, Winter Pasture
Barley
California Varieties
Chevalier
on Moist Land
and Alfalfa
Beet Sugar, Home-made
Beets
and Potatoes
for Stock
Stock, Summer Start
Berseem
Bermuda Grass
Objectionable
Black Medic
Broom Corn
Buckwheat Growing
Clover
and Drought
for Wet Lands
Crimson
for Shallow Land
for High Ground-Water
Not an Alfalfa
Sweet, Cover Crop
Corn
for Silage
Irrigation for
Eastern Seed
Suckering
and Cow Peas
Cover Crop for Hop Yard
Cow Peas in San Joaquin
Cowpeas
Growing
and Canadian Peas
Crop Rotation
Dry Plowing for Grain
Fall Feed
Forage Plants
in Foothills
Winter
Poultry
Flax, New Zealand
Grasses, for Bank-holding
Grass Seeds, Scattering
Hay
Midsummer Sowing
Loose by Measure
Oat, When to Cut
Rye for
Frosted Grain
Summer Crop
Heating and Fermentation
Insect Powder
Johnson Grass
Jersey Kale
Kafir and Egyptian Corn
Lawns, Mossy
Moonshine Farming
Oats and Rust
Pasturing
Young Grain
Hurry-up
California Winter
Rape and Milo
Rye in California
Rye
Grass, Italian
better than
Speltz
Spurry, Giant
Soil Light, Scant Moisture
Sunflowers
and Soy Beans
Russian
Spineless Cactus
Sorghum
Smutty
Late Sown
Sorghums
for Seed
for Planting
Sacaline
Special Crops
Teosinte
Vetches
for San Joaquin
for Hay
Wheat, Seven-headed
Soils, Fertilizing and Irrigation.
Alkali Soil
and Trees
Treatment of
and Gypsum
Distribution
Plants Will Tell
and Litmus
Alfalfa over Hardpan
Ashes
and Tomatoes
in Garden
and Poultry Manure
Blasting
or Tiling
Effects of
Barnyard Manure and Alkali
Bones for Grape Vines
Can a Man Farm
Charcoal, Medicine, not Food
Cover Crop, Best Legume
Cowpeas, best cover crop
Cementing Soils, Improvement
Cultivation, Depth of
Draining Wet Spot
Dry Plowing
Treatment
and Sowing
Dynamite, More Needed
Electro-Agriculture
Fenugreek as Cover Crop
Fertilizer
in Tree Holes
Best for Sand
Prunings as
Suburban Wastes
Composting Garden Wastes
for Sweet Potatoes
Pear Orchard
Olives
Consult Trees
Nursery
Almond Hulls and Sawdust
Fruit Trees
Oranges
Seed Farm Refuse
Slow Stuff
Alfalfa
Corn
Scrap Iron
Kelp as
Nitrate of Soda
Strawberries
Ground Water
Gypsum
on Grain Land
and Alfalfa
What it Does
How Much
Garden Peas for Green Manure
Grape Pomace
Handling
Abuse of
Hardpan and Low Water
Humus
Burning Out
Straw for
Irrigating
Palms
Condensation for
Winter
Young Trees
Alfalfa
How Much for Crops
Sewage
Creamery Wastes
House Waste
Intensive Cultivation
Irrigate or Cultivate
Irrigation
Underground
of Potatoes
of Apples
of Walnuts
Summer and Fall
and Fertilizers
Liming Chicken Yard
Legumes, Two in Year
Lime
Caustic not Absorbent
on Sandy Soil
Alfalfa
Sugar Factory Fertilizer
Manure
Water, Cultivation
Ashes
Poultry
too Much
Stable and Bean Straw
Pit Roofing
Value of Animals
Fresh and Dry
and Shavings
Sheep, and Goat
Hog and Potatoes
Vineyard
and Nitrate
with Clover
Nitrate, Late Applications of
Oranges Over Ground Water
Organic Matter, Needs
Oranges
How Much Water
Damping Off
Planting in Mud
Potash or Water
Reviving Blighted Trees
Soils
and Oranges
Crop Changes
Moisture Defects
Refractory
Suitable for Fruits
Blowing
Improving Heavy
Reclaimed Swamp
Improving Uncovered
Sand for Clay
Sour
and Old Plaster
Handling Orchard
Depth for Citrus
Summer Fallow
Sub-soil, Plow for
Stable Drainage for Fruit
Seeds, Soaking
Trees
over High-water
Plowing toward or from
Irrigated or not
Too Much Water
Too Little Water
Thomas Phosphate, Applying
Water
Artesian
from Wells or Streams
Live Stock and Dairy.
Buttermilk Paint
Butter
Going White
Fat, What it is
Why not Come
Fat in Cream
Breeding
Young Mare
in Purple
Line
Cream That Won't Whip
Cows in Hill Country
Concrete Stable Floor
Drying Persistent Milker
Foot-hill Dairy
Free Martin
Grade, What it is
Granary, Rat-proof
Hogs, Best Breed
Jersey
Short-horn Cross
Bad Tempered
Legal Milk House
Milk
Strong
Separator as Purifier
Certified
Self-Milker, Cure for
Silos, Heating not Dangerous
Shingles, Make Durable
Trespassing Live Stock
Whitewashes
for Buildings
Government
for Spray
Feeding Farm Animals
Alfalfa and Concentrates
Barley, Rolled
for Cows
for Hay Feeding
Brewers' Grains for Cows
Balanced Rations
Corn Stalks
and Concentrates
Cut for Silage
Calves, Feeding
Feed
for Cows
Family Cow
Young Pigs
Grape Pomace as Hog Feed
Grain for Horses
Horses, Vetch for
Horse Beans and Melons
Hay
Salting
Chopping for Horses
Cut Alfalfa
Storing Cut Alfalfa
Grinding
Kale for Cow Feed
Plow Horses, Feed for
Pumpkins
Feeding
Keeping
Pasture and Cover Crop
Fall and Winter
Summer for Hogs
Pigs
and Pie-Melons
Grain or Pasture for
Growing on Roots
Sheep, Winter Feeding
Sorghum, Feeding
Silage 200 Dry Fodder
Sugar Beets and Silage
Stover
Stock Beets
Storing
Kind of
Spelt, Value of
Steers on Alfalfa
Silo, Size of
Soiling Crops
Wheat or Barley
for Hogs
for Feeding
Diseases of Animals.
Abscess of Gland
Abnormal Thirst
Bloat, Easement
Bowel Trouble
Bloody Milk
Barren Heifers
Blind Teat
Bovine Rheumatism
Bleeding for Blackleg
Chronic Indigestion
Castration of Colt
Chronic Cough
Cowpox
Calf Dysentery
Cleft Hoof
Cocked Ankles
Cleanse Cows
Caked Bag
Cow Chewing Bones
Depraved Appetite
Dentist Needed
Dehorning
Forage Poisoning
Fungus Poisoning
Fly Repellants
Flea Destroyers
Garget
Gland Enlarged
Heaves
Horse with Itch
Horses Feet, Treatment
Hog Cholera
Hog Sickness
Infectious Mastitis
Irritation of Udder
Injury to Udder
Kidney Trouble
Lumpy jaw
Lumps in Teat
Loss of Cud
Mange, Is it
Mangy Cow
Musty Corn for Pigs
Nail Puncture
Neck Swelling
Pregnancy of Mare
Paralysis
Pneumonia in Pigs
Paralysis of Sow
Rickets in Hogs
Scabby Swelling
Skin Disease, Fatal
Scours
Side-bone
Shoulder injury
Stiff joints
Swelling in Dewlap
Sterile Cow
Supernumerary Teat
Sore
Eyes
in Pigs
Sow, Over-fat
Tuberculous Milk
Uterus, Diseased
Urination Defective
Warts on Horse
Worms in Horses
Wound
Sore
in Teat
Swellings
Poultry Keeping.
Bowel Trouble in Chicks
Cure for Feather-Eating
Cannibal Chicks
Caponizing
Chicken Pox
Clipping Hens
Dipping Fowls
Disinfectants
Dry Mash
Feeding for Eggs
Grain for Chickens
Liver Disease
Limber Neck
Melons for Fowls
Open Front Houses
Roup
Treatment
in Turkeys
Quick Roosters and Laying Hens
Preserving Eggs
Poultry
Tonic
in Orchard
Point on Mating
Poultry Diarrhea
Rupture of Oviduct
Rape for Chickens
Sunflower Seeds for Chicks
Teaching Chicks to Perch
Pests and Diseases of Plants.
Apple-Leaf Aphis
Bordeaux Mixture
Bean Weevil
Borers on Olive Twigs
Blister Mite on Walnuts
Black Scale, Fumigation
Cutworms in Young Trees
Control
of Pear Slug
of Grasshoppers
of Red Spider
of Squash Bugs
Corn Worm
Gumming Prune Trees
Gopher Poison
Lime-Sulphate Formula
Melon Lice
Mottle Leaf, Cause of
Potato Scab
Raspberry Cane Borer
Sunburn and Borers
Scale on Apricots
Spray for Red Spider
Slugs in Garden
Thrips, Finding
Wooly Aphis
Wire Worms