Japan.
Sends its Teas principally to America. The Tea is of a greenish nature, and experiments to manufacture black Tea have not, it seems, been successful. The following should give a hope to Indian Tea planters:—
Japan Tea.
To the Editor of the Japan Herald.
Dear Sir,—I read your article on Tea contained in last Saturday’s paper, anent the deterioration in quality of one of the country’s principal articles of export, and can fully confirm the chief points contained therein.
But in addition, from my personal experience, there appears to exist a steadily increasing disregard of care in the preparation of the leaf up country, and the evil, though existing for the last three or four years, is much more manifest this season, and is worthy of being brought under the especial notice of parties interested in the welfare of this country’s produce.
I submit for your inspection a sample of coarse leaf sifted out of a parcel of good quality, and the proportion of similar stuff in the chop amounts to fully 3 per cent., very much affecting the good appearance of the fired leaf. This defect no doubt arises from the attempted production of too great an amount of cured leaf for each hand employed per diem in the process, to be attributed no doubt to the enhanced cost of labour in the interior. But the defect is of vital importance for the future of Japan Teas in America. The buyer for distribution amongst consumers in that country is greatly influenced by the “appearance” of the leaf, despite its relative intrinsic quality in infusion, in comparison with a Tea of worse appearance, hence the high facing and colouring at present so much in vogue. If the Japanese producers continue the present style of manufacturing the leaf up country, so surely will Japan Teas decline in favour in America, as the foreign shipper here cannot make up the leaf prepared up country to the standard required by the American buyers, and with the prospect of a possibility of Oolongs and even blacks becoming ere long dangerous rivals with consumers in the United States, it behoves the Japanese Tea growers to turn their attention towards an improvement in production in their own country before they attempt to rival foreign competitors at this side.—Yours faithfully,
Yamato.
Yokohama, Aug. 19, 1881.
[We have inspected the sample of coarse leaf referred to in the above letter, and though we cannot pretend to any critical knowledge of Tea, we can confirm the statements of our correspondent, and hold the specimen at our office, where it can be seen by anyone desirous of doing so.—Editor, Japan Herald.]
I know not where this next extract came from, but it appears they understand adulteration in Japan:—
Mr. Yanagiya might, however, have gone a step farther, and have given particulars of the various analyses, and have mentioned that the “leaf” of the various samples showed a large proportion of leaves quite different to those of the Tea shrub, and for the presence of which not even the astute foreigner—that bugbear of Japanese commerce—can be held accountable.
We have heard this season loud complaints of the presence of leaves entirely distinct from those of the Tea plant amongst purchases. These consisted principally of wisteria, willow and a species of ash, but the native growers were impartial, and several other species of shrubs also contributed their quota to the frauds practised by the Japanese.
The probable reason of the falling off in the quantity of one of the leading articles of export from Japan is not difficult to guess at, nor can the Japanese say that they have not received full and timely warning of the danger threatening the popularity of Japan Tea. A reckless over-production, excessive and close picking of the shrubs, and great carelessness in pruning and manuring the tree—caused, no doubt, in no small degree by the high rate of wages in the interior—is militating against the realisation of a good crop, and the peasant is too intent upon immediate profits to forego the picking of the third crop of a season under existing circumstances. The result of all this has been that—at the close of last season—a quantity of worthless leaf was poured upon the market, finally sold at almost nominal figures, and shipped across to the United States, where it remains an incubus on the figures of stock, and a source of future abhorrence to any unfortunate purchaser towards anything bearing the name of Japan Tea.
The following is from the report of the Japanese Consul at San Francisco. I should have thought the Americans were too sensible “to prefer coloured Teas:”
It has however come to my knowledge that in the Eastern States the Tea was analyzed, and adulteration was discovered; such as the admixture of other leaves and poisonous ingredients which are used for colouring the Tea before it is exported, and that the markets in the Eastern States being overstocked, no Tea, unless of the best quality, can find purchasers. This is a very deplorable state of affairs. The colouring is made by the foreign merchants residing in Japan, for Americans prefer coloured Tea, and a few Japanese merchants may have imitated them, and exported on their own account.
The exports of Japan Tea to America have declined from seventeen to fourteen million in one year! Not strange if all the above is true.
The following from the Tea Gazette bears out what I say above as to Japan black Tea:—
Japan Black Tea.
Mr. Consul Euslie writes from Kanagawa (Japan) as follows concerning black Tea:—This has, on the whole, proved a failure, although the production continues on a limited scale. The climate and soil of this country appear unfitted to the growth of plants producing a leaf of the quality necessary to make good black. Teas resembling good leaf congous can be made with good and even handsome leaf, several samples being in appearance very similar to Indian Teas of pekoe class, but lacking strength, and not being nearly equal to good Chinese Foochow Teas in that respect. A small amount of these Teas has been shipped to Germany on native account, a German financier providing the necessary funds; but thus far the outcome of these shipments has not transpired. The results generally of 1881 have not proved as satisfactory as those of the preceding year; the whole crop, and more particularly the first picking, shows signs of hasty and careless preparation. The amount of Tea exported from Japan was decidedly in excess of the requirements of the United States and Canada, and a considerable portion of the shipments for the year had to be sacrificed at prices which did not cover laying down cost.
All this is hopeful for our Indian Teas, as we can manufacture the greenish Tea they like—that is, we can do it if they won’t take our black, but they have begun to do so.
The above mode of manufacture in Japan is new to us in India.
The process of steaming the Tea is as follows:—As soon as picked it is at once steamed, all damp or wet leaves being thrown on one side, excepting those that may be a little wet with dew. In order to obtain the proper application of heat, a few leaves are put into a shallow basket, spread out evenly, and the lid put on; the basket is then placed over a charcoal fire box or stove, a perfume is at once perceived. When the greeny smell has subsided, the leaves are removed, spread on a piece of new matting, and fanned briskly so as to draw out the heat. After the lapse of some little time the Tea is placed in a tray, and then undergoes a firing process, the length of which is regulated either by the minute hand of a watch or the beats of a pulse, and depends a good deal on the manipulator’s own ideas.
Java.[89]
Much of this Tea goes to Holland and Northern Germany. I know Tea cultivation in Java is carried out very carefully and very successfully, but this one fact is all I know as to Java or its Teas.