The Ascent of the Matterhorn

by Edward Whymper

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Drawings were made on the Wood by
H. J. Boot, Gustave Doré, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, C. J. Staniland, and J. Wolf; and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

1.	“They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart round the corner”	[Frontispiece.]
2.	Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-East and from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to Ascend the Mountain)	To face page	[44]
3.	The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Théodule Pass	„	[46]
4.	“The Chimney”	„	[76]
5.	“In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell”	„	[78]
6.	A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862)	„	[84]
7.	“They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries Of my excited comrade”	„	[107]
8.	The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, August 10, 1863	„	[120]
9.	The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864	„	[202]
10.	The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg	„	227
11.	Sections of the Matterhorn	„	[230]
12.	Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865	„	[288]
13.	The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn	„	[309]
14.	Geological Section of the Matterhorn	„	[324]

IN THE TEXT.

		PAGE
1.	Point of Alpenstock	[vii]
2.	Birmingham Pick-axe with moveable head	[viii]
3.	Russian Furnace	[viii]
4.	Cooking Tins	[ix]
5.	Snow Spectacles	[x]
6.	Arctic Cap	[xi]
7.	The Complete Disguise	[xi]
8.	Beachy Head	[1]
9.	The Devil of Notre Dame	[2]
10.	The Church in Difficulties	[5]
11.	At the St. Bernard	[6]
12.	The Village of Biona	[7]
13.	Crossing Mont Cenis	[9]
14.	“Garibaldi!”	[10]
15.	A Bit of the Village of Zermatt	[12]
16.	Briançon	[13]
17.	Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée	[19]
18.	The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise	[21]
19.	Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux	[26]
20.	Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald	[29]
21.	Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux	[31]
22.	The Blanket Bag	[38]
23.	Natural Pillar near Molines	[40]
24.	Portrait of the late J. J. Bennen	[48]
25.	Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel	[51]
26.	The Col du Lion: looking towards the Tête du Lion	[53]
27.	Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles	[62]
28.	The Author’s Mountain Tent	[62]
29.	Climbing Claw	[72]
30.	Rope and Ring	[73]
31.	At Breil (Giomein)	[79]
32.	The Matterhorn from Breil	[85]
33.	“But what is this?”	[88]
34.	An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche	[92]
35.	Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier	[96]
36.	Striations produced by Glacier-action	[97]
37.	Chamois in Difficulties	[102]
38.	“Carrel lowered me down”	[108]
39.	Portrait of the late Canon Carrel of Aosta	[109]
40.	Portrait of Monsieur Favre	[121]
41.	Crossing the Channel	[123]
42.	Portrait of the late Michel-Auguste Croz	[125]
43.	Plan to show Route	[128]
44.	The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the Chalets of Rieu Blanc	[130]
45.	Portrait of Melchior Anderegg	[138]
46.	Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.	[140]
47.	Diagram to show Angle of Summit of Meije, etc.	[142]
48.	The Vallon des Etançons	[143]
49.	Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps	[146]
50.	The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier	[155]
51.	Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins	[156]
52.	Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins	[159]
53.	A Night with Croz	[164]
54.	A Snow Couloir	[169]
55.	Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet Day	[184]
56.	Our Camp on Mont Suc	[185]
57.	Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass	[198]
58.	Summit of the Moming Pass	[200]
59.	Facsimile of a Letter From Croz	[208]
60.	Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier	[210]
61.	Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier	[211]
62.	Portrait of Leslie Stephen	[215]
63.	The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche	[217]
64.	Portrait of T. S. Kennedy	[222]
65.	Diagrams to Show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn	[229]
66.	My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback	[234]
67.	The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire Torrent	[237]
68.	The Summit of the Col Dolent	[241]
69.	My Ice-axe	[243]
70.	Kennedy Ice-axe	[244]
71.	Leslie Stephen Ice-axe	[244]
72.	Crampon	[245]
73.	Portrait of Christian Almer	[248]
74.	On the Mer de Glace	[249]
75.	Western Side of the Col de Talèfre	[255]
76.	Glissading	[257]
77.	The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier	[263]
78.	The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier	[264]
79.	“Croz! Croz!! Come Here!”	[279]
80.	The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865	[281]
81.	The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn	[284]
82.	Rope broken on the Matterhorn	[287]
83.	Diagram of Fog-bow	[289]
84.	Portrait of Monsieur Alex. Seiler	[290]
85.	The Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn	[292]
86.	The “Second” Rope broken on the Matterhorn	[293]
87.	The English Church at Zermatt	[294]
88.	The End	[298]
89.	The Chapel at the Schwarzsee	[310]
90.	The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 (Northern End)	[311]
91.	“The things which tumble about the ears of unwary travellers”	[325]

MAPS.

To be placed at the end of the Volume.

[1.] The Matterhorn and its Glaciers (in colours).

[2.] The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps.

The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. William Clowes and Sons; and the separate Plates have been printed by the Author.

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THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN

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BEACHY HEAD.