The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

by Elias Ashmole

CAP. V.

We come now to treat of the most Noble and Illustrious Order of the Garter; which, if we consider either its Antiquity, or the Nobleness of the Personages, that have been enroll’d, it excels and outvies all other Institutions of Honour in the whole World. It owes its Original, as is confessed on all Hands, to Edward III. King of England and France; yet as to the Occasion, there are several Opinions which we shall rectifie. The vulgar and more general is, that the Garter of Joan, Countess of Salisbury, dropping casually off as she danced in a solemn Ball, King Edward stooping took it up from the Ground, whereupon some of his Nobles smiling, as at an amorous Action, and he observing their sportive Humour, turned it off with a Reply in French, Honi soit qui mal y pense; but withal added, in disdain of their Laughter, That shortly they should see that Garter advanced to so high an Honour and Renown as to account themselves happy to wear it.

But upon Examination of this Tradition, let others judge what Credit it bears to establish its Belief; for Sir John Froissart, the only Writer of the Age that treats of this Institution, assigns no such Original, nor for 200 Years after is there any thing to the Purpose in our other Historians, till Polydore Virgil took occasion to say something of it; but had it been Fact, some French Historian or other, would not have neglected to register it at a convenient Time with a Scoff and Ridicule, since that Nation was so ready to deride King Henry V’s Design of invading them with a Return of Tennis Balls.

In the Original Statutes of this Order, there is not the least Conjecture to countenance the Conceit of such a Feminine Institution, no not so much as laying an Obligation on the Knights-Companions to defend the Quarrels of Ladies (as some Orders then in being enjoyned;) nor doth the Author of that Tract entitled Institutio clarissimi Ordinis Militaris a prænobili subligaculo nuncupati, prefaced to the Black Book of the Garter, let fall the manifest Passage to ground it on.

As to what Polydore says, he is not so confident to ascertain the Person whose Garter it was; but cautiously declining that, says, it was either the Queen’s, or the King’s Mistress’s; and if it were the latter, yet doth he omit her Name and Title, both which (on what Authority we find not) are supplied by modern Historians, who call her Joan Countess of Salisbury, the same elsewhere celebrated by the Name of the Fair Maid of Kent, (whom Edward the Black Prince, afterward married) whereas no Historian ever gave the least Inuendo that King Edward III. ever courted her as a Mistress. Selden points at her when he calls the Lady, from whom the Garter slipp’d, Countess of Kent and Salisbury: But about the Time when this Order was founded she in truth was dignified with neither Honour; for altho’ she was Daughter to Tho. of Woodstock, Earl of Kent, and had been sometime the reputed Wife of William Mountague, second Earl of Salisbury, yet then she cou’d not properly be accounted Countess of Salisbury. She was actually Wife to Sir Thomas Holland, (one of the First Founders of the Order.) Nor was she yet (tho’ afterwards) Countess of Kent, because her Brother John Earl of Kent, at the Institution of this Order, survived, and died not till 26 Edw. III.

That there was a Countess of Salisbury with whom King Edward III. became greatly enamour’d, Froissart reports after this manner, That this King having relieved a Castle of that Earl’s in the North, wherein his Countess had been besieged by the Scots (the Earl himself being at that time Prisoner in France;) upon sight of her extraordinary Beauty he fell in love with her; but she so virtuously demeaned her self, during his Abode there, that he declined further Solicitation. However, some time after, the King out of Desire to see her, proclaim’d solemn Justs in London, whither this Countess and other Ladies being invited, came up. This Castle it seems was Wark upon Tweed in Northumberland, which King Edward had formerly bestowed on her Husband, for his good Service past, when he first espoused her, being then but a Knight.

Altho’ it should be admitted that this Countess of Salisbury was the King’s Mistress, yet must it be remark’d, That she was Wife to William Mountague, Kt. created Earl of Salisbury, Anno 11 Edw. III. Mother to William the before-mention’d second Earl, that her Christian Name was Catherine, not Alice, as Froissart, not Joan, as others call her, Daughter to William Lord Granston, and that she expired 28 Edw. III. But that the whole may appear, what indeed it is, a meer Fable, we shall insert the Judgment of Dr. Heylin, who took great Pains in this Particular. This, says he, I take to be a vain and idle Romance, derogatory both to the Founder and the Order first published by Pol. Virgil, a Stranger to the Affairs of England, and by him taken upon no better ground than Fama Vulgi, the Tradition of the common People, too trifling a Foundation to so great a Building.

Of the same Contexture with the former is another Tradition in Andrew du Chesne, That the Queen departing from the King to her own Apartments, and he following soon after, chanced to espy a Blue Garter lying on the Ground (supposed to have slipp’d from her Leg) whilst some of his Attendants carelesly passed by it, as disdaining to stoop at such a Trifle; but he knowing the Owner, commanded it to be given him; at the Receipt of which he said, You make but small account of this Garter; but within few Months, I’ll cause the best of you all to reverence it alike. Some suppose that the Motto was the Queen’s Answer, when the King asked her, What Men would conjecture of her, upon her losing her Garter in such a manner?

Both Relations are far distant from Fact; nevertheless it has thus far’d with other Orders of Sovereign Foundation, and an amorous, instead of an honourable Account, has been falsly render’d of their Institution; as for Instance, The Order of the Annunciade, and that of The Golden Fleece.

There is a third Opinion grounded on a Relation made of King Rich. I. who, whilst his Forces were employ’d against Cyprus and Acon, and extremely tir’d and harrass’d with the Siege, he, by the Assistance and Mediation of St. George (as imagin’d) was inspir’d with fresh Courage, and bethought himself of a new Device, which was to tie about the Legs of a Number of Knights, a Leathern Thong Garter, for such had he then at hand, whereby they being emulated to future Glory, with Assurance of Reward if they prov’d victorious, they might be excited to behave themselves intrepidly and well, much after the Examples of the old Romans, among whom were distributed various Crowns for several Causes, to adorn the Soldiers: But if King Richard I. did make use of this Device in the Holy Land, as a Signal or Mark of Distinction of a Party, upon some warlike Exploit, yet that he took Occasion to create a distinct Order of Knighthood thereupon, there is not sufficient warrant to believe; (for it is only put down in the Preface of the Black Book, but not in any Part of the Annals of the Order; nor can it plead higher Antiquity than the Reign of King Hen. VIII. when written.) All the Advantage that can be made of it, is, to heighten the Reputation of that Saint among the English, by which Means the Garter came to be dedicated to him, and not that it contributed to its Institution.

§ 2. The true Motive was therefore, neither the Ladies Garter, or King Richard’s Leathern Thong, that it owes it Original to: But King Edward, being a Person of consummate Vertue, gave himself up to military Affairs; and being engag’d in War for recovering his Right to France, made use of the best Martialists of the Age, did thereupon first design (induc’d by its ancient Fame) the Restoration of King Arthur’s Round Table, to invite hither the Gallant Spirits from abroad, and endear them to himself; and adjudging no Place more requisite than Windsor, upon New-Year’s-Day, A. D. 1344. he issu’d out Letters of Protection for the safe going and return of Foreign Knights, to try their Valour at the Solemn Justs to be held there on Monday after the Feast of St. Hilary following (which happen’d Jan. 19.) And these Letters of Safe-Conduct continu’d in force until the Octaves of the Purification of our blessed Virgin ensuing, being the 18th Year of his Reign. At the Time appointed, he provided a great Supper to begin the Solemnity, and then ordain’d this Festival to be annually at Whitsontide; and immediately after these first Exercises were over, for a future and better Accommodation, he impress’d Workmen and Carriages for erecting a particular Building in the Castle, and therein plac’d a Table of Two Hundred Foot Diameter, where the Knights should have their Entertainment of Diet, at his Expence of 100 l. per Week; to which Building he gave the Name of The Round Table. And as at these great Conventions the Days were spent in all Kinds of noble Feats of Arms, Justs and Turnaments, so were a great Part of the Nights consum’d in publick Balls and dancing with the Ladies that attended the Queen thither; and perhaps it was hence conjectur’d, that at some of these Balls the Queen’s Garter, or the Garter of Catherine, Countess of Salisbury, might slip off, and the King’s taking it up occasion Smiles in the Bystanders; and afterwards, when the King had modell’d his intended Order, a Garter offering it self for its chief Ensign, might add to the Conjecture; but that it was the principal Cause, is a groundless Imagination. And tho’ King Edward advanc’d the Honour of the Garter, as to denominate the Order, yet was it not to enhance Reputation to, or perpetuate an effeminate Occasion, but to adorn Martial Prowess, with Honours, Rewards and Splendor; to increase Vertue and Valour in the Hearts of his Nobility, that so true Worth, after long and hazardous Exploits, should not enviously be depriv’d of that Glory which it hath intrinsically deserv’d, and that active and hardy Youths might not want a Spur in their Progression in the Paths of Vertue, which is to be esteem’d glorious and eternal.

It is further observable, that the French King, Philip de Valoys, in Emulation of this Seminary at Windsor, set up a Round Table at his Court, and invited Knights and valiant Men of Arms out of Italy and Almaine thither, lest they should repair to our King Edward III. which meeting with Success, prov’d a Countermine to his main Design; who perceiving that his Hospitality towards strange Knights, upon Account of reviving King Arthur’s Round Table was too general, nor did sufficiently ingratiate them to his Person, but being unconstrain’d and at Liberty, did after their Departure take what Side they pleas’d in the ensuing Wars, he at length resolv’d upon a Projection more particular and select, and such as might oblige those whom he thought fit to make his Associates, in a lasting Bond of Friendship and Honour: And having issu’d forth his own Garter for the Signal of a Battle, that was crown’d with Success, (which is conceiv’d to be the Battle of Cressy, fought about Three Years after his erecting the Round Table;) upon so remarkable a Victory, he thence took Occasion to institute this Order, and gave the Garter Preheminence among the Ensigns of it, whence that select Number, whom he incorporated into a Fraternity, are styl’d Equites Aureæ Periscelidis, and vulgarly Knights of the Garter. By this Symbol he design’d to bind the Knights and Fellows of it mutually unto one another, and all of them joyntly to himself, as Sovereign of the Order; nor was his Expectation frustrated, for it did not serve only as a vehement Spur and Incentive to Honour and martial Vertue, but also as a golden Bond of Unity and internal Society; and for this Consideration Cambden aptly calls it a Badge of Unity and Concord.

By the Symbols of this Garter the Knights are reminded, with all Religiousness, Sincerity, Friendliness, Faithfulness and Dexterity, not to leave the Pursuit of whatsoever they take in hand, nor to enterprize any Thing contrary to the Statutes of the Order; neither to frustrate the Rights of Peace and Friendship, nor vilify the Law of Arms, or proceed in any Thing farther than Faith and Compact, or the Bond of Friendship will admit. Moreover, in the binding of the Leg with this enobled Ensign, there was given this Caveat and Exhortation, that the Knights should not pusillanimously (by running away from Battle) betray the Valour and Renown which is ingrafted in Constancy and Magnanimity. Nay, so exactly did the Founder contrive the whole Habit into the Signification of the Garter, that he ordain’d his and the Knights-Companions Robes and Ornaments to be all alike, both for Materials and Fashion, intimating thereby, That they ought to conserve brotherly Affection among themselves. The great Collar of the Order was made of equal Weight, and like Number of Knots and Links, in Token of the like Bond of Faith, Peace and Amity inviolably to be observ’d and retain’d amongst them: In fine, all Things were so design’d, that every one might plainly perceive how much these Things tended to the Maintenance of Amity and Concord.

In further reference to the establishing this Order, the aforesaid King calling together the Earls, Barons, and principal Knights of his Kingdom, Freely, says Froissart, and obligingly declar’d his Mind to them concerning this Affair: To which all of them being well inclin’d, entertain’d the Motion with equal Joy and Applause, deeming it would prove a very great Advancement to Piety, Nobility and Vertue, and likewise an excellent Expedient for the uniting not only his Subjects one with another, but all Foreigners conjunctively with them, in the Bonds of Amity and Peace. And ’tis very improbable the prudent Founder should summon his Nobles to consult about the Grandeur of an Order, that had taken its Rise from so slight an Occasion as the dropping of a Garter from a Lady’s Leg. Now, to draw the Tye of Friendship more close, the King caused those who were (or should be) of the Order, to be call’d Fellows, Associates, Colleagues, Brethren, and Knights-Companions, and the Order it self a Society, Fellowship, College of Knights, and Knight-Companionship; and their Habits to be all alike, to represent how they ought to be united in all Chances and various Turns of Fortune; Co-partners both in Peace and War, assistant to one another in all serious and dangerous Exploits; and thro’ the whole Course of their Lives to shew Fidelity and Friendliness one towards another. There are other Reasons assign’d, much to the same Effect, That the Order was instituted to fortifie the Confidence of the King, the Kingdom and Martial Vertue; that is to say, to strengthen the Faith of the Subjects towards them, and for their greater Security, and because the Garter carries with it a Bond or Tye of Fellowship, and is a Symbol of Amity between Princes, being Companions of the same Order.

In the last Place, if we look upon the Statutes of its Institution, we shall find the Injunctions wholly Military, and so are the Words of Admonition pronounc’d at the putting on the Ensigns of the Order: And the Ground of the Institution (in the Preamble to King Henry VIII’s Exemplar) is said to be for the Honour of God and Exaltation of the Catholick Faith, joyn’d both with Piety and Charity, in establishing a College of religious Men to pray for the Prosperity of the Sovereign of the Order and the Knights-Companions, and to perform other holy Duties; as also ordaining a Maintenance for a Company of Alms-Knights, who have not otherwise wherewith to support themselves; but not one Word relating to the Engagement on behalf of the feminine Sex.

And whereas King Edw. III. had laid Claim by his Title to the Kingdom of France, and in Right thereof assum’d its Arms, he from the Colour of them, ’tis said, caus’d the Garter to be made Blue, and the Circumscription Gold: And it may, without straining, be inferr’d from the Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense, that he retorted Shame and Defiance upon him that should dare to think amiss of so just an Enterprize, as he had undertaken for recovering of his lawful Right to that Crown; and that the Magnanimity and Bravery of those Knights, whom he had elected into this Order, was such as would impower and enable them to maintain the Quarrel against all who thought ill of it. Consonant to this is the Conjecture of Harpsfield, that this Apophthegm was design’d to put the Knights-Companions in mind, Not to admit any Thing in their Actions, or among their Thoughts, derogatory to themselves and their Honour.

That Age did exceedingly abound with Impresses, Motto’s and Devices, and particularly King Edw. III. was so excessively given up to them, that his Apparel, Plate, Bed, Houshold-Furniture, Shields, and even the Harness of his Horses, and the like, were not without them, many of which now to descant upon would be a fruitless Attempt, seeing the Occasion of the Invention, and the Circumstances are lost, that should illustrate them; and others, by reason of their Brevity, seem’d insignificant, in regard something was designedly omitted, and left to be understood, which cannot now be rightly supply’d, so as to arrive at the Mind of the Inventor. Of this Number may be this Motto, It is as it is, which was embroider’d upon a Doublet of that King; tho’ there are others which seem more easy to be decypher’d; as that daring Motto wrought upon his Surcoat and Shield provided to be used at a Turnament,

Hay, Hay, the Wythe Swan;

By God’s Soul I am the Man.

§ 3. The Time when the Order was instituted, Historians differ widely about; Selden, Cowper, and others, from Froissart (who wrote temp. Rich. II.) would have it in the 18th of King Edw. III. But since Froissart errs, in making the Number of Knights-Companions no fewer than Forty, which is a grand Mistake, Why might not he trip in Point of Time, and confound the Year of its Erection, with that wherein the Founder renew’d the Order of The Round Table, Windsor being the Place for both. For should we admit, that during some Part of the Solemnity held in this King’s 18th Year, when the Accident of the Lady’s Garter slipping off happen’d, what other Inference can be made, but that he had only an Intention to put in Execution somewhat afterwards? Not that an Order was actually erected at that Time: Besides, the Jollity of the Season, the Greatness of the Concourse, and the Splendidness of the Festivity, it was too busy a Time to suffer much Consultation tending thereunto; or at least to mould and model a Design so compleat and substantial, as it appears to have been even at first. If we joyn Fabian, he is plain, that tho’ the King design’d the Institution at the End of the Festival, (which he places between Candlemas and Lent, in the 19th, and not 18th Year of that King) Yet was it not then, saith he, but afterwards establish’d by him. Nevertheless, Mr. Selden elsewhere observes, it had its Original in the 24th Year of the said King. And our industrious Stow (with whom Lily, Speed, and Segar agree) tells us, That the first Feast of the Order was celebrated A. D. 1350. which exactly agrees to the 24th of Edward III. But Polydore Virgil places it after the 25th of Edward III. We must therefore have recourse to some other Proofs for elucidating this Point, since this Chronological Æra of the true Time of its Institution hath wonderfully slipp’d the Pens of all Writers.

Admitting then that the erecting this Order was first thought of by King Edward, at some of those grand Assemblies of The Round Table, held after the French King had set up the like; yet was it not mature, or brought to any Perfection, till after his glorious Victories and Triumphs over the French and Scots in the Battles of Cressy and Nevil’s Cross, (in the last of which the Scotch King, David, was taken Prisoner) and until King Edward had Calais surrendred to him, as will appear very conspicuous.

Among the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, is one containing the Account of all the King’s Liveries, from Michaelmas Anno 21, to the 31st of Jan. 23 Edw. III. In the same are divers Things mention’d to be adorn’d with Garters, which were provided against the first grand Feast of St. George; and among the rest, the Royal Robes, viz. his Mantle, Surcoat and Hood; likewise a Bed of Blue Taffaty was bedeck’d with Garters, containing the Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense. There were made for the Sovereign Three Harnesses, whereof Two were of White Velvet, wrought over with Garters de blu & diaspris per totum compedmein cum Woodhouses; and the Third de Velvetto Ynde cont. Lappekin quisseux & caligas, wrought over likewise with Garters. Had the Roll been divided into Years, or had distinguishing Marks of Time upon it, we might have been guided with more Certainty as to the true Year of the Institution. However, we may thence conclude it was not founded in the 18th of Edw. III. because that the Sovereign’s Robes were not made until the 22d Year of his Reign at soonest; perhaps not till the Beginning of the 23d. But to put the Matter beyond dispute, the Founder’s Statutes fix the Time of Institution to his 23d Year; so do the Statutes of King Henry V. and the Preface to the Black Book, Leland, Mills and Dr. Heylin. To conclude, when he had fix’d upon the Day and Place for celebrating the first grand Feast of this Order, he sent his Heralds into Germany, France, Scotland, Burgundy, Hainault, Flanders and Brabant, to invite all Knights and Esquires, (with Assurance of Safe-Conduct and Liberty for Fifteen Days, both before and after the grand Solemnity) to shew their military Prowess and other publick Exercises there to be perform’d, proper to the Place and Occasion; agreeable to which Invitation, sundry Knights and Gallant Men came over to signalize their Valour; and what made the Solemnity more glorious, King Edward’s Queen was there present, attended with Three Hundred of the fairest Ladies, in all imaginable Splendor and Gaity.

§ 4. The Patrons of the Order were several, under whose Protection (according to the Custom of the Age) King Edw. III. put himself and all the Knights-Companions, that the Affairs of the Order might be defended, preserved and govern’d.

The first and chiefest which he elected, was the Holy Trinity, which in a more especial Manner was invocated to the Aid and Assistance of this Order.

Secondly, King Edward III. intitled peculiarly the blessed Virgin Mary, accounted then the general Mediatrix and Protectress of all Men; unto whom King Edward IV. was so strictly devoted, that he thought some additional Ceremonies requisite to her farther Honour, and thereupon ordain’d, that on her Five Solemnities the Knights Companions should annually (as accustom’d on the Feast of St. George) wear the Habit of the Order as long as Divine Service was celebrating, (unless they had sufficient Cause of excuse) bearing on the right Shoulders of their Robes a golden Figure of the Virgin Mary; and that they should go in the same Manner and Habit upon all Sundays throughout the Year; and lastly, that on the same Days for ever they should say Five Pater Nosters, with as many Ave Maria’s.

Thirdly, St. George of Cappadocia, a most choice Champion of Christ and famous Martyr, was also elected one of the Patrons to this Order by King Edward III. not so much as he was a Professor of the Christian Faith, or for that he was an armed Soldier or Knight of Christ, but so much the more because in those Wars, which were waged by the Christians against the Infidels, he by several Appearances manifested his Presence as a most certain Encourager and Assistant to the Christians; the Relations whereof may be seen in Dr. Heylin’s History, who hath laboriously and judiciously maintain’d the History of this Saint, against those that will not allow him a Place in Heaven, or a Being in the Church. In like manner the learned Selden hath avouch’d him to be the special Patron, Protector, Defender, and Advocate of this Realm of England; and has made it plainly appear in what Veneration he hath been honour’d abroad, especially among the Eastern Nations. To whose corroborating Testimonies we shall add, That this Title of Patron to our Nation, as given to St. George by the Founder of this Order, in a Patent granted to the Dean and Canons of the Chapel of St. Stephen at Westminster, and St. George at Windsor, which dischargeth them from Payment of Tythes; as also by King Henry VIII. in the Preamble of his Statutes. And tho’ in general he is styl’d the Principal Patron of the Affairs of Christendom, and a tutelar Guardian of military Men, yet among all Christians the English did excel; and in this Nation the Founder of this Order, in making choice of such an approv’d expert Captain and Patron, in particular Respect of whom the Knights had the Title of Equites Georgiani, St. George’s Knights, and the Order it self came to be call’d the Ordo Divi Sancti Georgii, The Order of St. George.

It is remarkable, that Du Chesne, a noted French Historian, acknowledges it was by the special Invocation of St. George that King Edward III. gain’d the Battle of Cressy, which afterwards bringing to his Remembrance, He founded, says he, a Chapel within the Castle of Windsor. But if we may ascend a step higher, and give credit to Harding, it’s recorded King Arthur paid St. George particular Honours, for he advanc’d his Picture in one of his Banners, which was about Two Hundred Years after his Martyrdom, and very early for a Country so remote from Cappadocia to have him in Reverence and Esteem.

Lastly, The Founder added a fourth Patron, whose Name himself bore, viz. St. Edward the Confessor, his Predecessor, King of England; and we find he was wont to be invocated by this Founder, as well as St. George, in any great Difficulties and Streights. Walsingham gives an Instance at the Skirmish of Calais, A. D. 1349. when King Edward, in great Anger and Grief, drew out his Sword, and most passionately cry’d out, Ha St. Edward, Ha St. George; which his Soldiers hearing, ran presently to him, and rushing violently upon the Enemy, put many of them to the Sword. These Four Patrons we find recorded together in the Preamble of the Foundation of Windsor College by King Edward III. tho’ in the Preamble to his Statutes of the Order, and to King Henry V’s Statutes, St. Edward the Confessor is omitted; nevertheless he is enumerated with the rest in the Preamble to King Henry VIII’s.

§ 5. As to the Honour and Reputation of this Noble Order, either in Comparison with others, or in Reference to it self, it challenges the Precedency of Antiquity, before the eldest Rank of Honour of that Kind any where establish’d.

Secondly, The Statutes of the Foundation were so exquisitely and judiciously devised and compacted, upon such solid Foundations of Honour and Nobleness, that they afterwards became a Precedent to other Orders; and gave the Plan to those Two of The Golden Fleece and of Monsieur St. Michael, as is manifest by comparing their Statutes.

Thirdly, It is no small Honour that accrues to this Order, that the Number of these Knights-Companions were never encreas’d, but as they were Twenty Six with the Sovereign, so they now thus continue, ut Pretium faciat raritas; for the infringing this Article hath split several other military Orders into Contempt and Ruin, as nothing more tarnishing, or throwing a sully on the Worth of Glory and Honour, than when render’d so vulgar, and indifferently disposed without Distinction and Merit, as is exemplify’d in The Order of the Star, and the now declining Order of St. Michael.

Fourthly, It has receiv’d more additional Lustre by being honour’d with the Companionship of divers Emperors, Kings and Sovereign Princes, who esteem’d it the Summit of their Glory, and the highest Trophy of additional Honour, to be enroll’d in the Number. Insomuch that some of them with Impatience courted the Election. For we find recorded in the Register, A. D. 1672. Eight Emperors of Germany, Three Kings of Spain, Five French Kings, Two Kings of Scotland, Five Kings of Denmark, Five Kings of Portugal, Two Kings of Sweden, One King of Poland, One King of Arragon, Two Kings of Naples, besides divers Dukes and other free Princes; as One Duke of Guelderland, One Duke of Holland, Two Dukes of Burgundy, Two Dukes of Brunswick, One Duke of Milan, Two Dukes of Urbin, One Duke of Ferrara, One Duke of Savoy, Two Dukes of Holstein, One Duke of Saxony, and One Duke of Wertemberg, Seven Count Palatines of the Rhine, Four Princes of Orange, and One Marquis of Brandenburg.

Fifthly, It entitles those Knights and Noblemen, whose Vertue hath rais’d them to this Pitch of Greatness, to be Companions and Associates with Emperors and Kings, a Prerogative of an high Nature, and a sufficient Recompence for the greatest Merit. We shall close up all with the high Elogy bestow’d on it by the learned Selden, That it exceeds in Majesty, Honour and Fame, all Chivalrous Orders of the World.

CAP. VI.
The Statutes and Annals of the Order.

Order and Regularity is not only the Beauty and Symmetry of Government and Societies, but also greatly contributes to their Establishment and Perpetuity. Statutes and Rules are as well the Bounds to determine, as Bonds to unite Fellowship and Societies together; and if either fall into disuse, or be unadvisedly broken, they open a Field to Dissolution and Ruin.

Such like Considerations mov’d and excited the victorious King Edward III. (after he had determin’d the Erection of this most renown’d Order of the Garter) to devise and institute several laudable Statutes and Ordinances, to be duly observ’d and kept within the said Order; which being collected into one Body, are call’d The Statutes of Institution.

The Original of these was ordain’d to be kept within the Treasury of the College of Windsor, but hath long since wholly perish’d; yet a Transcript of them is recorded in the Reign of King Henry V. in an old Book call’d Registrum Ordinis Chartaceum. Two more ancient Exemplars of this Body of Statutes are also in being; the one in the Library of the Lord Hatton, and the other in the Black Book of the Order; and comparing them together, I shall here give from the Latin the Heads they consist of.

1. The King of England, his Heirs and Successors, are to be Sovereigns or Superiors of this Order.

2. None are to be admitted, unless he be a Gentleman of Blood, and that he be a Knight and without Reproach.

3. The Knights-Companions were to be Twenty Six, each to have at Windsor a Mantle and Garter for the better Splendor of the Order; to wear the said Habit whensoever they go to the Chapel of St. George or Chapter-House, to hold a Chapter, or do any thing relating to their Order. In like manner they are to wear the Habit upon the Vigils of St. George, in their Procession from the King’s Lodgings to the Chapel or Chapter-House, and returning back, and during Supper, continue so habited till it be over, and likewise on the Morrow of St. George’s Day, at Chapel, Dinner-time, Supper-time, and afterwards all the said Day, until the Sovereign or his Deputy shall deposite the Ensigns of the Order, and decree their Departure.

4. There were to be Thirteen Canons Secular, who at the Time of their Institution, or within a Year, were to be Priests, and as many Vicars already Priests, or to be made so at the next Ordination, answerable to the number of the Knights-Companions; these religious Persons to be presented by the several Founders each one, and upon the Death or Vacancy of such presented, the Sovereign of the Order ever afterwards to have the Nomination of them, who were bound to pray for the good Estate of the Sovereign and his Kingdom, and particularly for this Order.

5. The Canons were to wear a Purple Mantle, with the Arms of St. George in a Roundle upon their right Shoulder.

6. There were to be Twenty Six poor veterane Knights, each to have a competent Subsistence, their Election to be after the manner of the Canons aforesaid.

7. These Knights were to have a Red Mantle, with the Arms of St. George; but without any Circle of the Garter about it.

8. If the Sovereign could not be present at the solemn Festival of St. George, his Deputy was to supply his Place at the Charge of the Sovereign; but such Deputy was not to make any new Ordinances, tho’ he has License to correct or amend the old Ones.

9. Every Year, upon the Vigils of St. George, the Knights-Companions within the Realm, or elsewhere, if conveniently, are to assemble, at Windsor Castle, and be present there at the Celebration of Divine Service, in the Habit of the Order, where placed regularly in their Stalls or Seats, directly over their Heads their Helmets and Swords, &c. are to be hung up, and remain as long as such Knights live, in Honour of them, and to signify the Defence of the Church, to which they are obliged as a Military Order; but in case the Feast of St. George happens to fall within the Quindene or Fifteen Days after the Feast of Easter, then it was to be prorogued to the Sunday next following, accounting Fifteen Days from Easter Day, that every Knight-Companion might have reasonable time to come, nor be forced to ride upon any of the Three Easter Holy-days.

10. That they meet in St. George’s Chapel yearly, on the Eve of St. George, at the Hour of Three in the Afternoon; and if they come not at the Time assigned, without a just Excuse, which the Sovereign or his Deputy allows, their Penalty is to be according to the Ordinance of the Chapter; which is, That they shall not enter into the Chapter Door for that time, but stay without, and shall have no Voice in any thing that is done in the said Chapter; and if they come not before the Beginning of Vespers, they shall not enter into their Stalls, but shall tarry below before the said Stalls in the Choiristers Places during Vespers. The like Penalty is ordain’d for not coming to the Mass or Morning-Service betime, and at Vespers, on St. George’s Day; and whosoever shall absent himself wholly from this Solemnity, without sufficient Excuse and Leave from the Sovereign or Deputy, he is not to enter within his Stall the next Feast after, but shall stay below, and before his Stall, as it is said at Vespers, and in the Morrows Procession must walk before the Three processional Crosses, [now the Choiristers,] and at Mass [Service] shall sit below until the Offering, and he to offer last. After which he is to come before the Sovereign, or his Deputy’s Stall, and ask Pardon, which re-instates him in his Stall. Absenting the next second Time upon the Feast, without Leave, he has no Stall allowed him until he hath given and offered a Jewel upon St. George’s Altar, to the Value of Twenty Marks, which is to be double every Year until a Reconciliation.

11. Wheresoever they be, they must wear their Blue Robes from the Beginning of the first Vespers, on the Eve of St. George’s Day, to the second Vespers on the Morrow inclusive, &c.

12. If any Knight-Companion appears publickly without his dignifying Garter, upon challenging the same, is to pay half a Mark to the Custos and College.

13. At the Times of Offering, each associated with the other who holds the opposite Stall, are to march in Procession together to make their Offerings; but alone, when his Consort is absent, and so that in all Processions the Sovereign goes last.

14. In the Morrow after the Solemnity of St. George’s Feast is over, before their separating, a Mass de Requie or Office de Defunctis was to be used, at which the Knights-Companions were all entirely to be present, without necessary Impediment shown to the Sovereign or Deputy for Liberty to depart.

15. They were to leave their Robes at Windsor always, to be ready for them there upon any sudden Occasions that might evene.

16. Journying near Windsor, in Honour of the Place, unless lawful Cause obstructs, they must take it in their Way, and assuming the Habit of the Order the Canons wore, devoutly to meet and conduct them into the Chapel; where, if it happens to be time of Divine Service, they are to hear the same; if not, they are to be detained no longer than while the Canons shall say the Psalm de profundis for the Defunct, and during their own Offering: But if any had riden thro’ the Town, without visiting the Chapel and offering there, for every Neglect he must go one Mile on Foot from the said Chapel, to shew his Obedience, and offer an Half-Penny in Honour of St. George.

17. Upon first Notice of the Death of any of the Order, the Sovereign shall ordain a Thousand Masses, every Foreign Prince shall cause Eight Hundred, a Prince of Wales Seven Hundred, a Duke Six Hundred, an Earl Three Hundred, every Baron Two Hundred, and every Knight Batchellor One Hundred Masses to be celebrated for the Good of the Soul departed; which neglected for a Quarter of a Year after notice of such Death, the Masses are to be doubled; upon half a Year’s Neglect, again doubled; and so from Time to Time in like Form till the End of the Year, and then the Year’s to be doubled.

18. Upon sure Notice of the Death of a Knight-Companion, the Sovereign, or his Deputy, is to converse by Letters, the Remainder [not Strangers] that are within the Kingdom, to meet him within Six Weeks in some convenient Place, and elect another; which assembled, at least Six, with the Sovereign or Deputy, every of them present is to name Nine of the worthiest and sufficientest Knights without Reproof that he knows, whether native Subjects or Foreigners, sobeit they hold no contrary Party, or be against the Sovereign, viz. Three Earls, or of sublimer Title; Three Barons, and Three Knights Batchellors, which Names the Bishop of Windsor, for the Time being, was to write, or, in his Absence, the Dean or Register, and, in their Absence, the oldest Residencer in the College, and after shew them to the Sovereign, who is to chuse out of them him that has the most Voices, and whom he esteems the most beneficial to the Crown and Kingdom. Every Knight failing to appear at an Election, without an approved Cause, was to pay to the Custos and College the Penalty of a Mark, and at his next coming to the Chapter shall kneel upon the Ground, in the midst of the Chapter, before the Sovereign or Deputy, until Reconciliation.

19. Soon after Election, the Knight-Companion elect is to have a Garter, in token of his Election, and that he is a Fellow of the Order; and as soon as decreed to take Possession of his Stall, but not before, is to have a Mantle, which, if he dies before he receiv’d, he was not to be accounted as one of the Order, because he wanted Possession; nevertheless he was to have one half of the Masses abovesaid, because he had the Garter deliver’d to him and nothing beside. If he was not installed within a Year after his receiving the Garter, and especially if within the Realm, and without reasonable Excuse to be allowed of by the Sovereign or Deputy, his Election became void, and they might proceed to a new one: Moreover, neither the Sword nor Helmet was to be put upon his Stall within the Castle, before his coming; to the End, that if the Knight elect came not, his Atchievements might not be unhandsomly taken down and abused, but honourably removed into the Choir for the publick Use and Profit of the said College.

20. Every Foreigner elected was to have Certification of such his Election from the Sovereign, at the Sovereign’s Charge, who was to send him the Garter and the Mantle, and a Copy of the Statutes of the Order, under the Common Seal of the said Order, within Four Months after the Election, the better for him to advise on; which being accepted, of whatsoever Condition he be, he was obliged within Eight Months after to send a sufficient Proxy, according to his State and Dignity, a Knight irreprehensible to be installed in his Room, and who was to bring with him a Silk Mantle of the Blue Colour of the Order, also a Sword and Helmet to remain at Windsor, which Mantle was be put upon the right Shoulder of the Proxy, by the Sovereign or Deputy at the time of Installment, when he is introduced to take the Stall in the Name of his Lord and Master; neither was he to deposite the same till the End of Divine Service; after which he was not to wear it, nor be admitted in the Chapter-House, or have any Suffrage, by virtue of any Powers vested in him; but this Favour Foreigners elected by Proxy were to have, that could not personally come themselves, they were to be Partakers of the whole Masses and Orisons of the Order; whereas, if they died before the Installation, they were to have but a Moity of them.

21. Upon the Death of any Earl, [or of Superior Dignity] Baron, or Knight Batchellor, his Successor, whether Earl, [or of Superior Dignity] Baron, or Knight, was to have a vacant Stall of his Predecessor, without any changing of Places, except the Prince of Wales alone, who was to have always the next Stall, and opposite to the Sovereign; so that it may happen for a Knight to have an Earl’s Place, or an Earl a Knight’s Place; and this because the first Founders might be known.

22. Every Knight-Companion at his first Entrance, was to give a certain Alms, according to their Eminence and Degree, for the perpetual Maintenance of the Canons and Poor Knights, viz. the Sovereign Forty Marks, a Foreign King Twenty Pounds, a Prince of Wales Twenty Marks, a Duke Ten Pounds, an Earl Ten Marks, a Baron a Hundred Shillings, and a Knight Batchellor Five Marks, that by these pious Donations they might justly entitle themselves to the Name and Privileges of the Order; wherefore, before these Payments were rightly performed, their Sword and Helmet [Atchievements] were not to be hung up, and for Foreigners the Sovereign was obliged to pay himself.

23. Upon the Death of any of the Founders his Arms, in a Plate of Metal, was to be fixed upon the Back of his Stall, and their Successors were to have the like, but to be placed underneath their Predecessors, and not to be so great as those of the first Founders.

24. At Admission every Knight-Companion must promise and swear personally, or by Proxy, faithfully to observe the Statutes of the Order, and none are to be installed by Proxy but Foreigners only, which cannot conveniently come in Person.

25. If the Sovereign be out of England at the Installation of any Knight-Companion, or could not attend himself to do what appertains to him in that Point, he might impower and authorize any of the Fellows to officiate for him.

26. That there be a Common Seal or Signet Keeper, whom the Sovereign was to assign.

27. Every Knight-Companion was to have a Copy of the Statutes under the Seal of the Order, the Original sealed likewise with the said Seal, to remain for evermore within the Treasury of the College, and upon the Death of any Knight-Companion, his Executors were to send back such Copy to be deliver’d to the Custos or Warden.

28. No Knight-Companion was to go out of the Realm and Dominion of England, without the Knowledge and Licence of the Sovereign, who of Grace and Favour is bound to grant it upon a Military Expedition, or other notable Act appertaining to the Honour of Knighthood, in Preference and Advancement of this Order of St. George.

29. They were not to arm themselves against each other, but in the Wars of their Sovereign Lord, in his right and just Quarrel; and if it happen’d that any of the Order should be retain’d in the Cause and Quarrel of any Lord, and the adverse Party desir’d another Knight-Companion on his Side, that latter Knight is by no means to agree but to excuse himself in all Things, because his Fellow was armed on the other Side, and was retain’d before him. And every Knight was bound to except and agree, at his being retain’d, that he may have his Discharge from the Wars, upon any of the Order’s being engaged in Arms before him for the contrary Party; and if the second retained knows not of it, upon notice that any of his Fellows were retained before him, and armed on the contrary Side, the second retained Knight was to excuse himself to his Master, and relinquish the Quarrel.

30. All Licences given to the Knight-Companions to travel in quest of Honour by Military Exploits; also all Certificates, mandatous Letters, Certificates, and other Writings whatsoever relating to the Order, were to be issued out by the Sovereign, under the Seal of the Order, to remain in the keeping of one of the Order, during the Sovereign’s Pleasure. And if the Keeper of the Seal absent himself upon reasonable Cause, he was to leave the Seal with another of the Fellowship that the Sovereign should appoint, to the Intent that the Seal at no time be out of the Presence of the Sovereign, he being within his Dominion. And in like manner concerning the Seal in the Absence of the Sovereign or the Deputy.

31. If any Knight-Companion for Devotion sake should desire to dwell at Windsor, he was to maintain himself at his own, and not at the College Charge.

32. Any other Knight, not of the Order, upon the Account of Devotion, that would reside there, was to be provided for at the Appointment of the Sovereign, and the Fellowship also. Any Knight or other Person giving 10 l. yearly Rents or Lands, or more, to the College, to participate of their Prayers and Suffrages, he was to be registred in the Calendar of Benefactors, and continually be pray’d for by the Canons and Poor Knights.

33. Upon the Death of any Canon, the Custos or Warden is to certify the same by Letters to the Sovereign, if beyond Sea, to know whom he pleases to present to the Canonship.

34. There was to be a Register appointed by the Sovereign and Fellowship, the most intelligent Person of the College, who was to be present at the Chapters, to record their Elections and the Electors, their Punishments, and Causes of them, with their Reconciliations, all Acts whatsoever administred in their Council, from Chapter to Chapter yearly; for the faithful Execution of which Office he was to be sworn at his Admission therein; and whatsoever had been register’d was in the Beginning of the following Chapter, on the Vigils of St. George, to be publickly recited before the Sovereign and the whole Fellowship, that what was amiss and incorrect might be mended and reduced to due Form.

§ 2. Besides these Statutes there are Two other Bodies, or Exemplars establish’d since, the one by King Henry V. the other by King Hen. VIII. King Henry V. finding the Glory of the Order declining, removed the Grand Festival and other Solemnities, and commanded a strict Observation of all the Founder’s Statutes, and brought many more to like Perfection, which he subjoined to such of them, where they might be properly and are as follow:

To Article	3. That the Knights should mark their Obeisance in the Choir first to the Altar, and next to the Sovereign, or in his Absence to his Stall.
	8. That the Deputy should elect, if the Sovereign (when abroad) had not Six Knights with him.
	9. That the Feast of St. George should not be kept upon St. Mark’s Day, nor the Days of St. Philip and Jacob, nor of the Holy Cross, neither upon any Days which should happen in the Festivals of the Ascension or Pentecost, or other solemn Feasts ordained by the Church to the interrupting their Divine Service.
	12. That when a Knight should ride out he might wear a Blue Silk Ribbon instead of his Garter.
	14. That the Order and Manner of Offering up the Atchievements should be as is there prescribed, viz. before they offer their Money, their Swords should be first offered by Two Companions, which the Sovereign or his Deputy should appoint, and afterwards their Helmets with their Crests, by Two others of the Order.
	20. That Knights absent in the Sovereign’s Service might be install’d by Deputy.
	31. That the Sovereign should take a Signet of the Order abroad with him, to be fixed to all the Acts he does in Foreign Parts relating to this Order, in Distinction to those done at home.
	34. That no Charge should be admitted upon the College by the Custos or Canons, without the Sovereign’s Consent likewise.

The Statutes with these Additions (as the Statutes of Institution) this King caused to be translated into French, and transcribed into a Roll, which was ordered to be presented to every Knight-Companion under the common Seal of the Order. In after Times it was transcribed into Books; and by a Decree, Anno 3 Hen. VII. an Original Book of these Statutes and Institutions, fair written, was to be reposed in the College of St. George, and the Scribe or Register to have Transcripts of them in Readiness, to present the elected Knights withal.

The last and largest Body was first began, and received the finishing Stroke by King Hen. VIII. chiefly in regard some of the former Statutes wanted Explication and others Contraction. And for the compleating of which Purpose, on St. George’s Day, Anno 9 Regni sui he summoned all the Knights-Companions to convene next Year at the Time of the Solemnity, about the Abrogation of what tended to darken the Honour of this Order (if any such were), and for the Advancement of what might promote the Grandeur and Lustre of it. But these Resolves came to no Perfection till May 28. Anno 11 Regni sui, when he entred upon this Reformation with all magnificent Ceremony imaginable, for being accompanied with Nineteen Knights-Companions of the Order proceeding in Cavalcade to the Chapter-House, and taking into Consideration their former Statutes of Knights-Companions, with all due Reverence implor’d the Sovereign to reform and explain them as he should think convenient, which he brought to a successful Period, by the Advice and Consent of the Society assembled: That done, all present entreated the Sovereign, kneeling, that where any of them had been peccant against the Order, he would please to remit, and issue out a general Pardon, which he granted and ratify’d in Chapter next Day. This was a Task of Three Years compleat before it rose to Perfection, viz. April 23. Anno 14 Hen. VIII. for then the Sovereign, out of right singular Love, well-temper’d Zeal, and entire Affection to this most noble Order, to the Estate of Chivalry, and the Continuance and Encrease thereof; as also at the humble Request and instant Importunity of the then Knights-Companions, and by their Advice, Counsel and Consent, did interpret and elucidate all the Obscurities, Doubts and Ambiguities of the former Statutes and Ordinances. Divers Affairs contain’d in Fifty of them being explain’d and amended; he made likewise necessary Additions, the Original whereof being sign’d and seal’d, were commanded to be carefully laid up in the Treasury of Windsor College, to remain as a Standard to succeeding Times; yet they have not been seen there these many Years past.

The Articles and Clauses added to the former Statutes, in this last Body, are these:

To Article	1. That the Interpretation of the Statutes, &c. belongeth to the Sovereign.
	2. The Three Points of Reproach declar’d, and what is meant by a Gentleman of Blood.
	4. Of the Prerogative of the Feast.
	5. How the Feast is to be observed by absent Knights.
	6. Attendance on the Sovereign, if he be not at the Feast.
	7. That the Sovereign’s Deputy may correct Things in Chapter.
	12. The offering up of Atchievements, and a Taper arm’d with an Escutcheon.
	13. Canons to sit in the lower Stalls, when any Knights are present.
	14. That Six Knights make a Chapter.
	20. The Manner of Installation set down.
	21. Clause for a Foreign Knight’s Deputy to be conducted from the Chapter-House to the Stall; and for making an Election void, if the Knight send not his Proxy within Seven Months.
	23. For advancing and translating of Stalls.
	25. Plates not to be larger than the first Founders, except Strangers.
	27. The Time Three Months prefix’d for the Executor of a deceas’d Knight-Companion to send back the Copy of the Orders deliver’d to him at his Admission, which might be also sent to one of the principal Officers of the Order.
	38. Concerning the Collar of the Order.

This Body of Statutes was compil’d in Latin, and is recorded in the Black Book of the Order. It was translated into French and English by Sir Thomas Wriothesley, Kt. then Garter King of Arms. The English Version annex’d here to this Treatise, is what hath since been deliver’d (instead of the former Statutes) to all succeeding Knights-Companions, according to the Injunction; but of late Times appointed to be sent to Foreign Princes and other elect Knights abroad, sealed with the Great Seal of the Order, affix’d to a Label of Blue Silk and Gold.

§ 3. There have been several Endeavours since the Reign of King Henry VIII. for reforming the Statutes. As first, King Edward VI. who as Sovereign, by the Orders themselves, had an undoubted Prerogative set him to alter and reform many Things which seem’d inconsistent with the Religion he establish’d. To which Purpose, at a Chapter at Greenwich, held April 23. in the Third Year of his Reign, the Lord St. John, the Earl of Arundel, and Sir William Paget, were to peruse and make them agreeable to the King’s other Proceedings, by the Assistance and Advice of the Protector, the Duke of Somerset, and other Companions. This was follow’d by a subsequent Order pass’d in the Chapter at Greenwich the Year after, that the Statutes should be reform’d and corrected as they thought expedient: And for the better Accomplishment of their Design, at the next Feast, April 24. 5 Edw. VI. another Order commenc’d, impowering the Duke of Somerset, the Marquess of Northampton, the Earls of Warwick, Arundel, Bedford and Wilts, to peruse and amend the Statutes and other Books of the Order, which were brought to some tolerable Degree of Perfection; for thereupon a new Body was collected (in general very much altering the Laws of the Order) and publish’d March 17. Anno 7 Edw. VI. But this King within Four Months after expiring, Queen Mary, his Sister and Successor, the very first Thing she transacted was to abrogate and make them void; wherefore we need not mention them, as never in use and unrevived. For the Execution of which Purpose, she conven’d a Chapter at St. James’s, the 27th of September following; and it was then decreed, that the said Laws and Ordinances, as inconvenient, impertinent, and tending to Novelty, should be disannulled, and no Account to be made of them for the future; and for the quicker Execution, Sir William Petre (that Day admitted Chancellor) had Orders to see them speedily expung’d out of the Book of Statutes, and forthwith defac’d, lest any Memory of them should remain to Posterity; and only those of her Father, Hen. VIII. and his Royal Predecessors, should be retain’d.

In this Affair King Philip, her Husband, appear’d no less zealous; for on the 5th of August, 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, (which was the 3d Day after he had been invested with the Habit) himself being present at a Chapter at Windsor, it was ordain’d, That all Acts and Decrees in the Great Book, [i. e. the Black Book aforesaid] which were repugnant and disagreeable, either with the ancient and receiv’d Statutes of the Order, or else with the Laws of the Realm, should clearly be abolish’d and erased, by the Marquis of Winchester, the Earls of Arundel, Pembroke, and the Lord Paget.

No sooner was Queen Elizabeth fix’d on the Throne, but soon after, viz. on St. George’s Day, in the second Year of her Reign, a View of the Statutes was committed, by Commission, to Four of the Knights-Companions, viz. the Marquis of Northampton, the Earls of Arundel and Pembroke, and the Lord Howard of Effingham, who were thereby impower’d to peruse and consider those Statutes with the utmost Care and regard, if any of them were repugnant to the Religion, Laws and Statutes of the Realm; and if any such were recorded, to represent them faithfully to the Sovereign, that she, in Conjunction with the Knights-Companions, might establish such Decrees concerning them as she should think fit; but that any thing was done in pursuance hereunto, doth not appear; for the Transcripts of her Father’s Body of the Statutes, throughout the Time of her Reign, were presented to the Knights-Companions at their Installations; and the Practice of her Time was pursuant to the Direction therein, except in some few Things now and then added or alter’d at future Chapters, when there arose fresh Matters for such Expedients.

King James I. her Successor, revolv’d something towards a new Regulation; and in order to put it in Execution, the 14th of May, in the 9th Year of his Reign, decreed, That Commissionary Letters should be granted to the Earls of Nottingham, Worcester, Pembroke and Northampton, to empower them to examine the Registers and other Monuments which pertained to that Order; and where any Passage should be found obsolete or obscure, to make it conspicuous and clear; where Contrariety appear’d, fitly to reconcile it; yet with no Design of innovating any Thing, but an Intention of renewing all, as near as might be, to the first Standard and most ancient Institution of the Order; saving always Power to himself, as Sovereign of the Order, to add or diminish any Matter (according to the Occasion) as it should seem agreeable to his Prudence for the Honour of this Most Noble Order. What Progress they made in this Commission, the Memoirs of that Time are silent in; but some few Years after, this Affair was reviv’d, and another was issu’d forth, to the Earls of Nottingham, Worcester, Southampton, Arundel and Montgomery, and the Viscount Lisle, all Knights-Companions, dated April 26. in the 16th Year of his Reign; which Six, or any Four of them, were thereby constituted to take an exact Survey of all the ancient Statutes and Articles of the said Order; and authoriz’d to call before them all such Persons, whether Officers of the said Order, or others, as could give any Light or Information concerning that Affair; and after a serious Deliberation, to pen down what in them they conceiv’d meet to be explain’d, and what to be added, whereby to render the Order more illustrious, that the same being presented to the Sovereign and the Society, at a Chapter holden, might be resolv’d on in part, or in all, to be put in Execution, if it seem’d so good to that King.

This Affair mov’d very slowly; but towards the latter End of his Reign, the Earls of Worcester, Montgomery, Arundel, Surry and Leicester, Five of the Six Commissioners above-nam’d, having held divers Conferences, and debated several Matters represented to them, and at a Chapter convened at Whitehall the 19th of May, Anno 20 Jac. I. did present to the Sovereign certain Articles, subscribed with their Hands, which, for the Honour of the Order, they thought requisite to be duly observ’d.

By the first of which they made Provision for a further Progression and Advancement of the illustrious Institution, in proposing, that every Year a Commission from the Sovereign should be granted, or continu’d to such Knights of the Order as the Chapter should pitch on, to deliberate and weigh all Affairs that fell under the Order, and that the Year after, an Estimate, by the Knights in Chapter, should be exhibited, of their Resolutions and Proceedings by Virtue of the said Commission. This, with Eight other Articles, were confirm’d by the Sovereign and Twelve of the Knights-Companions, the 22d of May following, in a Chapter held at Whitehall; and so prosperously their Endeavours succeeded, that on the Feast-day of St. George, at Windsor in the ensuing Year, the Earl of Worcester, (being then the Sovereign-Deputy) with Ten Knights-Companions more, gave their assent to Eight other Articles (most of them concerning the Alms-Knights) which the Morning after had the Approbation of the Sovereign; and before the Celebration of Divine Service, by his Deputy and Companions assembled in the Chapter-House, the Observation thereof was duly decreed.

King Charles I. design’d and endeavour’d the most compleat and absolute Reformation of any of his Predecessors; and at the Solemnity of St. George, held at Windsor the 6th of October, in the 6th Year of his Reign, He commission’d Nine Knights-Companions, viz. the Earls of Mulgrave, Pembroke, Montgomery, Arundel, Surry, Salisbury, Carlisle, Dorset, Holland, Berkshire and Suffolk, with command to assemble Four Times in a Year, to take into their Consideration the Affairs of the Order; all which, but the Earls of Mulgrave and Dorset, met at Whitehall the 2d of January following, where some few Matters fell under their Consultation. This Commission was seconded by one of a larger extent about Three Months after, and directed to the said Knights-Companions, or to any Eight, Seven, Six, Five or Four of them, empowering them to meet and devise, and exactly preponderate all the Statutes and Ordinances of the Order, as well such as were established at the Foundation, as those that had been since made, by Explanation or Addition, and to weigh advisedly whether any Thing had been enacted, that had caused Doubt or Ambiguity, or stood in need of any Change or Amendment; and if upon mature Deliberation by them thus conven’d, there should appear any Contrariety or Defect, for want of plain Expression, or other Omission, fit to be supplied, tending to the Honour of the Order, That then the Sovereign might, upon Return of their Proceedings, resolve upon some general Declaration in Chapter, to reform and reduce into one Body all the Statutes and Ordinances thereof, that the same being compil’d and settled in one perfect Model, might be so consign’d to Posterity, free from all future Questions and Doubts.

Nevertheless not any thing was done upon this Commission, tho’ it stood in force even from the 6th to the 13th Year of this King’s Reign; but where the Neglect lay History does not fully inform us, tho’ it may be conjectur’d by what follows.

At the Feast of St. George, celebrated by Prorogation at White-hall, for the Year 1636. upon the 17th, 18th, and 19th Days of April, 1637. divers Petitions for Reformation, and reducing of Matters to their pristine Constitution, were presented to the Sovereign by the Chancellor, and read; some of which, more especially, tending to set off and encrease the Honour of the Order, were received and decreed by the Sovereign, and the rest referr’d to the said Knights-Commissioners. The first of those Decrees which at that time had its Sanction, was to revive and renew the Powers given in the former Commission; and thereupon a new one, dated the 7th of May following, was issued under the Great Seal of the Order, and directed to the Earls of Mulgrave, Darby, Pembroke, and Montgomery, Arundel, and Surry, Kelly, Salisbury, Dorset, Holland, Barkshire, Suffolk, Lyndsey, Exeter, Marquiss Hamilton, Duke of Lenox, the Earls of Darby, Moreton, and Northumberland, or to Three or more of them, to meet and consult of any Matters contain’d in the Statutes, or for Honour of the Order. These Knights-Commissioners were endow’d with all the plenary Powers given in the foresaid Commission, dated 6 Car. I. unto which was granted a further Addition, for the better effecting the Sovereign’s Care: That Three or more of them should meet at the Sovereign’s Court, and begin to put the said Commission in execution in Whitson Week next ensuing, attended and assisted by the Chancellor of the Order, and all, or any other Officers, or such of them as they should fix on, or find serviceable. And being assembled, to have free Liberty to hear, propound, and debate of whatsoever shall fall under their Cognisance, or that they should conceive conducible to the Honour and perfect Establishment of so Illustrious and Noble a Body. And to prepare all Matters of such their Resolutions and Debates to be laid before the Sovereign at the next Feast of St. George, and so successively at every Chapter so appointed by him, to receive his full Determination, Approbation, and Royal Assent, with further Power to adjourn from time to time, after the first Opening and Reading of the said Commission; their Meetings to be in such Places, and on such Days as should seem most convenient to them.

Now who wou’d suppose, that after so Noble an Intention of the Sovereign, and his earnest Solicitude to issue forth a second Commission, his hearty recommending and exciting their Deligence for a speedy Dispatch, and lastly, his expecting an Account of their Transactions the next Feast, these honourable Persons, Companions of the Order, should need a Spur to accomplish so laudable a Design; but it was so.

For altho’ the Commission was opened at White-hall the 30th of May following, in the Presence of the Earls of Pembroke and Montgomery, Salisbury, Holland, Marquiss of Hamilton, and Duke of Lenox, Commissioners; yet Sir Thomas Row Chancellor, in his Letter to Dr. Christopher Wren, dated the 4th of June, 1637. sadly complained, That it was much as he could do to draw together Five of the Knights-Companions, to open and read the Commission, and this quasi in transitu, was in Confusion and Hurry, and all that was transacted was to appoint another Convention at Court in Midsummer Week then next ensuing, and charge the Chancellor to prepare Matter (for Propositions and Observations upon the Statutes) fit for their Consultations against that Appointment, according to the Tenor of the Commission. And in another Place writes, That he found such Difficulty to procure Meetings, and as certain non Chalance in every one, as if it were but a ceremonious Affair, and so few hearty in it, that he feared he and the Officers should wait to little Purpose: And so indeed it fell out; for albeit he attended in Midsummer Week, according to their Direction, yet there was nothing dispatch’d, save only the adjourning of their Meeting to London.

Some little Progress was afterwards made in this Affair at White-hall the 8th of February following, where Three of them were present, viz. the Earls of Berkshire, Lindsey, and Northumberland, who order’d the Chancellor, Register, and Garter, to prepare an Abbreviation of the Statutes, and reduce every thing of one Head into an Act, to keep up to Method, and avoid Confusion.

The 1st of February after, another Assembly of Seven of the Knights-Commissioners was held at White-hall, in whose Presence a few Points were debated; but little or nothing concluded.

§ 4. As concerning the Annals of the Order, or the Books wherein the several Resolutions and Decrees occasionally made in Chapters, and wherein other historical and ceremonial Matters relating to it are recorded, it will not be amiss to give some Account of them in this Place.

The first, in Order of time, is an old Paper Book written in French, call’d Registrum Chartaceum, hitherto fortunately preserv’d in the Paper Office at White-hall, which probably was begun by John Coningham; for we find him, 1414. (a little before the Annals commenced) made Canon of Windsor, and Register of the Order, and in regard the same Hand-Writing is carry’d on from the Beginning of the Book down to 16 Hen. VI. inclusive, where follows an Hiatus till Anno 23 Hen. VI. that the Annals began to be set down with another Hand; and that he shortly after died in 1445. Henceforward these Annals are entred with promiscuous Hands, which may be presumed the proper Hand-Writings of the Registers of this Noble Order, as they succeeded each other in the Office.

After we find Richard Sidnor mention’d in the Register Anno 16 Hen. VIII. (who subscribed his Name at the foot of every Leaf) the Annals were pen’d in one Hand until Anno 26 Hen. VIII. that Robert Aldrydge, D. D. and one of the Canons of Windsor succeeded him; and then ’tis evident the Writing also was changed to an old set Roman Hand, which ran on to the End of 29 Hen. VIII. in which Year he was advanced to the Bishoprick of Carlisle; and this Book breaks off in the 31st of his Reign.

Besides this there is another Book that goes by the Name of the Black Book, wherein the Annals of the Order are transcribed in Latin, concerning which there pass’d a Decree, Anno 3 Hen. VII. that it should be fairly copy’d out, and afterwards that the Sovereign should be put in Remembrance of it; but neither of these Decrees was put in execution, nor was this confirm’d till towards the End of the Reign of King Henry VIII. This Book differs very little from the Registrum Chartaceum, for therein is nothing enrolled relating to the Order (except one of the Exemplars of the Founders Statutes, and a Catalogue of the first Twenty-five Knights-Companions) before the 4th Year of King Henry V. the Annals of the Order, until that time, being entirely lost. It hath the same Hiatus or Intervals from 16 to 23 Hen. VI. from 7 to 10 of Edw. 4. from 4 to 7 Hen. VII. and from 10 to 14 Hen. 7. It also runs parallel therewith for the most part, and that it was compil’d by Dr. Aldrydge, whilst he continu’d Register, is collected from some Passages in the Preface of all the Sovereigns, ending with King Henry VIII. The Transcription of this Book was finish’d Anno 13 Hen. VIII. for so far is written, as also the Appendix, with one and the same Hand; (in a middle-siz’d Text) but Anno 32 Hen. VIII. another Hand appears, which, with some Variation, is continu’d to the End of 5 Edw. VI. where this Book breaks off.

The Register of the Order was oblig’d to provide Two Books, and therein to enter the Ordinances, Statutes, and Acts of this Noble Corporation, one to be lodg’d at the Chapter House at Windsor, and call’d, Index Windesoriensis, and the other being a Duplicate of the former, to remain in his own Custody, ready to expose to the View of the Sovereign, whensoever he should demand it; this latter was called Aulæ Registrum.

As to the general Directions for Compiling these Books, and the Particulars they are to consist of, we are inform’d from the said Statutes and Constitutions; for besides the Entry of all the Scrutinies taken in Chapter and Elections made thereupon, it is his Office to record the Penalties inflicted on Knights-Companions, and the Reconciliation of all Delinquents with other Acts, and their Causes appertaining to the Order, all which are decreed to be recited before the Sovereign and Knights-Companions at the Beginning of the Chapter yearly, if Occasion be, to correct and reduce into Method. Moreover he is to record all the Policies in War, Exploits, Transactions, and memorable Atchievements, both of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, according as he can best attain the Knowledge of them, by his own diligent Search, or the Assistance of Mr. Garter, which having consign’d to Writing from Year to Year, is to be perused at the next Chapter by the Knights-Companions, for their Approbation and Correction; and being reiterated the second time in the Chapter, he is to see that they be fairly engrossed in the said Book, for a perpetual Remembrance.

And because the time perfix’d for Rehearsal of these Particulars in Chapter, had in succeeding Years been imploy’d in other Affairs. In one of those Articles which the Knights-Companions exhibited to King Jac. I. the 19th of May, Anno Jac. R. 20. and ratified the 22d of May following, it was decreed that nothing of this Nature, or any other Act in Chapter, should be registred before it had been perus’d and pass’d the Consideration of the then Knights-Companions, or at least Four of them, who when they should set Times apart to consult of the Affairs of this Order (for which they were chiefly commission’d) might then also make Use of such Opportunities as should give this Business Dispatch with more Conveniency. Upon mature Consideration had of those Injunctions, the then Register at a Chapter held 19 Nov. 22 Car. II. presented the Continuation of the Annals of this Order, which he had ranged in order to register in the Liber Carolinus, and submitted them to the Approbation of the Knights-Companions, whom the Sovereign had commission’d to inspect the Affairs of the Order; which Tender, when they declin’d, he propos’d that it might pass the Examination of the Prelate; but they not giving their Assent to it, in regard the Register himself was under the Obligation of an Oath, to deal with the utmost Fidelity in his Reports, it was decreed, That the said Annals should be fairly recorded in the Book, without any further Inspection.

Besides the abovemention’d Particulars, there were Materials of another Nature, decreed to be collected by the Chancellor of the Order and Garter King of Arms, to be digested first, and after entred by the Register; for whereas one part of the Chancellor’s Duty was to make a Narration every Year in Chapter, at the Feast of St. George, of the illustrious Exploits of the Knights-Companions, as well as the Actions that tend to eclipse their Glory; so the Register was to note these, and record them from a perpetual Æra or Memorial of their Honour or Disgrace.

And it is part of Garter’s Duty diligently to enquire after the Valiant, Fortunate, and Renown’d Acts, both of the Sovereign and the rest of the Knights-Companions, and relate them with all Exactness to the Register, for his Engrossing: But how sparingly these are put in execution, the Annals themselves bear witness. However, Sir Edward Walker Garter-King has drawn up an Account of the shining Actions and Characters of the Knights-Companions, beginning with Thomas Earl of Strafford, and continuing it down to his Son, which he deliver’d Dr. Ryves the Register, for the Use afore-directed.

Among the Articles establish’d at the Feast of St. George, 21 Jac. I. the last is, That the then Register should compose a Book, wherein should be orderly transcribed the Form and Manner of all the Solemnities, Ceremonies, and Processions, at the Celebration of the Order; as also of taking down and offering the defunct Knight’s Atchievements, that the Knights-Companions might have free Recourse to it; but such Book never was extant.

For the Safety and Preservation of the Annals, the Knights-Commissioners determined the 22nd of May, An. Jac. I. 20. That a secure and convenient Place within the Castle of Windsor should be appointed, in which all Acts concerning the Order should be reposed, and to which every Knight-Companion at all times might have access. And upon the Remove or Decease of the Register of the Order, the Book, containing the Account of all such Transactions, should be committed to one of the Knights of the Order.

The second of these Books is called the Blue Book, so call’d, being bound in Blue Velvet; it begins with the first Year of Queen Mary, and ends at the 18th of King Jac. I.

The third being bound in Red Velvet, is denominated the Red Book; it commences where the Blue Book leaves off, and treats of the like Acts and Entries, and is carry’d down to 14 Car. I: having first given a full Account of the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King Charles II. And as to great part of this Work, it was perform’d by the elegant and judicious Dr. Matthew Wren, Bishop of Ely, and Register of the Order, whose excellent Pattern his Brother and Successor Dr. Christopher Wren hath copy’d in its following Tract. This Bishop compiled a MS. A. D. 1631. wherein, by way of Comment upon King Henry VIII’s Statutes, he hath compendiously shewn what Alteration there hath passed in the Law of the Garter, a Work performed with great Judgment, and exceedingly useful to the Curious.

The fourth and last Book is, Liber Carolinus, and commences 1640. wherein the Annals are brought down to the beginning of 1670. by Ryves, then Register. And in a Chapter conven’d at Windsor the 16th of April, Anno 13 Car. II. it was decreed, That there should be Two of these Books compiled, the one printed in Latin, in the Custos of the Register at Windsor; and the other in English, to be reserv’d at Whitehall, and call’d, Registrum Aulicum.

CAP. VII.
The Habit and Ensigns of the Order.

THE Habit and Ensigns of this most Noble Order are most eminently distinguishable and magnificent, and consist of these Particulars, viz. Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, George, and Collar; for as the Romans were very exact and particular in assigning each Degree a peculiar Habit and Vesture, by which the Quality and Rank of their Citizens might be discernable, the Distinction of Apparel was afterwards taken up by divers other Nations, whence every Military, as well as Ecclesiastick Order of Knighthood, did appropriate to it self a peculiar Dress, Ensign, or Badge, as a Mark of Distinction one from another, to set off the Lustre and Honour of their several Societies.

The four first, viz. the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, and Hood, were assigned the Knights Companions, by the Founder, and the George and Collar by King Henry VIII. and all these together are called the whole Habit or Ensigns of the Order, which we shall treat of succinctly, beginning with the Garter.

The Royal Garter challengeth the Preheminence, for from it this famous Order receiv’d its Denomination: It is the first part of the Habit presented to Foreign Princes and Absent Knights, and that wherewith they, and all other elect Knights, are first adorn’d; and of so great Honour and Grandeur, that by the bare Investiture with this Noble Ensign, the Knights are esteem’d Companions of the greatest Military Order in the World.

The Materials whereof it was compos’d at first, is an Arcanum; nor is it described by any before Polydore Virgil, and he but in general: As to the ornamental Part of it, it was adorn’d with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the End, to fasten it about the Leg; but there’s no doubt but it was wrought with rich Embroidery, and the Motto rais’d with Gold, Pearl, and sundry Sorts of Silk, as may be guess’d from the Garters anciently plac’d on the left side of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and those other little embroider’d Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore embellish’d.

The present Habits, Ensigns and Badges, belonging to the Officers of the Garter.

The Prelate & Chancellors Mantle. Registers, Garters & Black Rods Mantle. Garters Scepter. Black Rod Chancellors Badge Garters Badge Black Rods Badge

Chancellors Badge Garters Badge Black Rods Badge The Garter The Sovereigns Mantle. Hood. Surcoat. The Collar and Great George Ribbond & George A Knight Companions Mantle. Cap and Feather.

But of those wrought in the last Age, we have more particular Satisfaction; for we find the Garter sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, Anno 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, was set with Letters of Goldsmith’s Work, the Buckle and Pendant of the same, and on the Pendant a Ruby, and a Pearl hanging at the End. The Garter made for Francis II. Anno 6 Elizabeth, was richly wrought with Letters of Gold, set off and garnish’d with Stones, the Buckle and Pendant weighing Three Ounces and an half-quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The French King Henry IV. had a Garter of Purple Velvet embroider’d with Letters of Gold, and deck’d out with Diamonds and Rubies. And the Garter of Christian IV. King of Denmark, was embroider’d with Gold and Pearls: But that Garter sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, outvied all others conferr’d by former Sovereigns, each Letter of the Motto being compos’d of small Diamonds; and for every Stop, a Diamond within a Range of Diamonds, above and below, on the sides of the Garter, and besides other Diamonds on the Buckle, and about the same, to the Number in all of 411.

The Garter which King Charles I. wore upon his Leg at the Time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto compos’d likewise of Diamonds, which amounted to the Number of 412. It came to the Hands of Captain Preston (one of the Usurper’s Captains) from whom the Trustees, for Sale of the King’s Goods, receiv’d it, and sold it to Ireton, sometimes Lord Mayor of London, for 205 l. But after the Restoration, the King’s Attorney-General proceeding upon an Action of Trover and Conversion, Verdict was given for the King against him for 205 l. and 10 l. costs of Suits, in Trinity Term, 16 Car. II.

The Motto of King Charles II. was set with Diamonds upon Blue Velvet, and the Borders wrought with fine Gold Wire; the Diamonds which framed the Letters of the Motto, were Rose Diamonds, much of a Size or Proportion; but those which framed the Stops, Table-Diamonds; the Total which set each Letter, compos’d the Stops, Ilot Holes, and adorn’d the Buckle; the Table was Two Hundred and Fifty; the Hinge of the Buckle was pure Gold, and on it the Sovereign’s Picture to the Breast, curiously cut in Flat-stitch, crown’d with a Laurel and the military Garb of the first Roman Emperors; the Table or Pendant was Gold, and on the back-side thereof engrav’d St. George on Horse-back encountring the Dragon.

This noble Ensign, the Garter, was at the Erection of the Order appointed to be wore on the left Leg, a little beneath the Knee, which Usage still presides: And the placing it thus, on the Sepulchral Portraictures of Knights-Companions, was an early Custom; for on the Alabaster Monument of Sir William Fitz-warin, who was interr’d in the North-side of the Chancel at Wantage in Com. Berks, 35 Edw. III. he lies there with his Surcoat of Arms upon his Breast, and the Representation of a Garter (but without Motto) carv’d upon his left Leg. In the same Posture lies Sir Richard Pembridge, elected a Knight-Companion, temp. Edw. III. and is portraicted on his Monument in the South-side of the Cathedral of Hereford, below the Pulpit, and encompass’d with a Rail of Iron-Spikes.

The next Monument whereon the Garter was depicted, was that erected for Sir Simon Burley, (beheaded A. D. 1388.) and rear’d in the North-Wall near the Choir of St. Paul’s, London. Thence-forward the Practice became more frequent, and then the Motto began to be cut thereon; insomuch that it is now the constant and just Practice to do it, whensoever the Knights-Companions are exhibited in Effigies.

And altho’ this Ensign was first design’d in Ornament to the left Leg, yet it was not confin’d so solely thereto, but was anciently us’d to incircle the Escutcheon of St. George’s Arms, worn by the Sovereign and Knights-Companions on their Mantles, who within a small space after us’d it to surround their own proper Coat of Arms, which their Successors have retain’d as their peculiar Privilege, permitting it to none but to their principal Officer, the Prelate of the Order.

The first Example that occurs, is the before-mention’d of Sir Francis Burley, where, on the Front, towards the Head, is his own Arms empaling his first Wife’s, set within a Garter, (wanting the Impress;) but another having the same Empalement, (plac’d below the Feet) is surrounded with a Collar of SS. of the same Form with that about his Neck.

The Monument also of Joan, Wife of Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmoreland, on the South-side of the Choir, in the Cathedral of Lincoln, bears the Arms of Nevil, empaling those of Joan, his Wife, (who dy’d A. D. 1410.) Incircled within a Garter, and fix’d on this Lady’s Monument, Daughter to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, is there such a Collar of SS. placed about a Square; but the Paint being faded, was render’d unintelligible.

Another antique Instance is that Escutcheon, Sable, Three Ostrich Feathers Argent, surrounded with the Garter, affix’d in the Glass-Windows of Greenwich-Church in Kent, by Humfrey, Duke of Glocester, and Supported with a Greyhound and an Antelope. It is reported, these Three Feathers were the Ensign of King Henry IV. which were conferr’d by John of Gaunt, his Father, who bore them for his Device, and placed in a Field Sable, as here, but the Pens were powder’d with Ermin, for a difference from the Black Prince’s Feather, which were Argent, as the King’s Pen was Or, and the Duke of Somerset’s Compony Argent and Azure.

The Arms of Sir Lewis Robessart, Lord Bourchier, Knight-Companion, temp. Hen. V. we find encompass’d with a Garter on each side his Monument, in Westminster-Abbey.

At the Interment of Richard Duke of York, Father to King Edw. IV. at every Corner of the Majesty-Escutcheon (set over the Image of the Defunct) was an Escutcheon of the Arms of France and England quarterly, and Four Angels Gold, holding the same within a Garter. And so some of the Funeral Escutcheons of John Viscount Wells, (who dy’d 14 Hen. VII.) were surrounded with the Garter, as others bearing his Lady’s Arms.

At the Interment of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in Thetford-Abbey, (who dy’d 16 Hen. VIII.) there was provided a Shield of his Arms within a Garter, and a Coronet affix’d over it; a Target also of the Arms of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, within a Garter, was born at his Funural, Anno 33 Hen. VIII.

It was the Custom, (begun about the Reign of Hen. VII.) when the Obsequies of any Foreign Prince were celebrated in England, to paint an Escutcheon of such Prince’s Arms within the Collar of the Order, whereof he was Sovereign or a Fellow-Companion; as those of the French King, Charles VIII. celebrated at St. Paul’s, London, had Escutcheons of the Arms of France, within the Collar of the Order of St. Michael, at each End of the Hearse; and when the Obsequies of John King of Portugal were solemniz’d at St. Paul’s, there was, among others, one large Escutcheon of his Arms within the Collar of the Golden Fleece. The Funeral Rites of the Emperor Charles V. being perform’d in Westminster-Abbey, 22 and 23 Dec. 1558. there were Ten great Escutcheons compass’d with Garters, to shew he was a Fellow of this Order: And upon the same Account, where Princes were Sovereigns of one, and Companions of another Order, their Hearses were hung with Escutcheons of their Arms, surrounded with the Collars or principal Badges of both those Orders; as at the Interment of Francis I. the French King, celebrated at St. Paul’s, London, 1 Edw. VI. the Escutcheons were the Arms of France, encompass’d within the Garter of St. George, and Collar of St. Michael. At the Obsequies of Hen. II. of France, Anno 1 Eliz. at St. Paul’s also, there were some Escutcheons of his Arms, incircled both with the Garter and Collar of the Golden Fleece, having been a Knight-Companion of both these Orders: Under the Joysts was a Majesty Escutcheon of Black Taffaty of this King’s Arms, within a Garter crown’d with an Imperial Crown, and in several Places of the Hearse were fasten’d other Escutcheons of his Arms within this principal Ensign of the Garter.

King Hen. VIII. was the first that introduc’d into his Great Seal the Eschutcheon of his Arms incircled within a Garter, as may be seen placed on either side his Portraiture sitting on his Royal Throne; since him, all succeeding Sovereigns have born their Arms after that Manner, not only in their great and Privy-Seals, but in those other appertaining to their Courts of Justice, and generally in all Matters where their Arms were visible (except Coins); in Imitation of whom, the Knight-Companions have done the like.

But there were An. 21 Car. 1. certain Half Crowns stamp’d in the West of England, containing the Sovereigns Arms, so encompassed, regally crowned and supported; and this was the first Money whereon the Royal Garter appeared. After him King Charles II. having an Eye to the Advancement of the Honour of this Order, caused the irradicated Cross of St. George encompass’d about with the Royal Garter to be publickly stamp’d in the Center of his Silver Coin, struck upon the Recoinage of it, Anno 14. Car. 2.

There were other Medals heretofore stamp’d upon several Occasions, wherein the Garter was designedly express’d, and enclosing Shields of their Arms; as that in the Year 1619. Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine, was crowned King of Bohemia, and Robert Cecil Earl of Salisbury created Lord Treasurer, both Knights Companions of this Noble Order: Moreover, Gold Rings have been cast into the Figures of Garters; the Ground on the outside enamell’d with a deep Blue, through which the golden Letters of the Motto appearing, set them off with an admirable Beauty. And it seems such Rings were in vogue since the Preface to the black Book of the Order makes mention of wearing the Garter on the Leg and Shoulder, and sometimes likewise subjoins the Thumb, interdum Pollice gestare; by which we may naturally conjecture, that Gold Rings were formed into the Fashion of Garters, and bestowed by some new installed Knights upon their Relations and Friends to wear in Memorial of so great an Honour conferred upon them.

Among the Officers belonging to the Order the Prelate is permitted to bear his proper Arms (impaled with those of his See) within the Garter, and the rest only to wear the Badges of their Offices, surrounded with the same to express their peculiar Relation.

Besides the Manner of bearing Arms, within the Garter of this Order, the Garter either in whole or part, hath been by Way of Armory, but without the Motto; as in the Seal belonging to the Office of Garter King of Arms, where the Garter (enclosing a Crown) is placed on a Chief, between a Lyon of England and a Flower de Lys of France. And to instance in Family, we find Argent Three Demy-Garters Azure, buckled and garnished, Or, granted by King Hen. VII. to his Servant Peter Nerborne, and sable a Garter, Or, between Three Buckles of the Second, to be born by Buckland or Bowland in Com. Northampton.

§. 2. The second Ensign of the Order is the Mantle, which is the Chief of those Vestments which the Sovereign and Knights-Companions make use of upon all solemn Occasions relating to the Order. That this Pattern was derived to us from the ancient Greeks and Romans, is not at all to be disputed, since it so little varies in Fashion from their Pallium or Toga; for the Grecian Pallium was a sort of long Cloak, which only wanted a Collar or Cape, and the Roman Toga as proper to them, as the Pallium to the Grecians, and the Custom as Antique as Romulus himself; for he is recited by Plutarch to have worn it. The Pallium is more fully described to be a kind of upper Robe that covered the whole Body, made fast on the right Shoulder with a Fibula or Clasp. It was usually worn over the Tunica or short Coat, whence the Proverb Tunica Pallio propior, and is more particularly observed to have been a Garment fashioned without Sleeves, that reached down to the Ancles.

In describing this upper Robe, called the Mantle, (the Sovereigns being distinguished from the Knights-Companions, only by a long Train) we shall first set down its various Appellations it is mentioned by in the Records of the Order; Secondly, the Materials whereof it consists; Thirdly, the Colour; Fourthly, the Quantity; and last of all the Ornamental Trimmings, that nothing be omitted to satisfy any curious Enquirer.