MATERIALS.

That Mantle prepared for the Founder against the first Feast of this Order, appears to be fine Woollen Cloth, and it is not improbable this Material was chosen, rather than any other richer, to the Intent the Founder might give the Preference to our native Commodity, altho’ there’s permitted in the Statutes of Institution a permission for the Proxies of Foreign Princes to bring over with them Mantles of Silk and Velvet when they came to receive possession of their Principal Stalls, either because other Countries were better stored with such Commodities than our English Cloth, or that it might be more agreeable to represent the State and Grandeur of Foreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler Representation.

What Duration the wearing Cloth had, is not directly set down, but the first time we discover their Mantles to be of Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King Hen. VI. which Sort of Silk hath thence remained until this Day. About this Period, ’tis observed, that the Mantles of Foreign Princes were made here of Velvet, for so was that transmitted to the King of Portugal, elected Anno 1346. Concerning the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no doubt but they were of the same Materials with those made for the Sovereign, viz. at first of fine Woollen Cloth, and when the Sovereign exchanged it for Velvet, they followed his Example; but we cannot meet with equal Satisfaction in this Point, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own Expence; and their private Accounts herein passing thro’ so many Contingences, were of no great Durability. But their Surcoats were of the Sovereigns Donation, and consequently the Particulars of them remain on Record in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

The Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be Blue, and of this Colour was the Founders; by which, as by the Ground-work of the Royal Garter, it is not improbable he alluded to the Colour of the Field in the French Arms, which a few Years before he began to Quarter with those of England. But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every Year, as will appear by and by. Of the same Colour were the Velvet Mantles, made temp. Hen. VI. who tho’ he altered the Stuff, did not vary the Dye. It is apparent, that the blue Colour was retained to King Edw. IVth’s Reign, for when this Sovereign transmitted the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to Julian de Medicis, the Mantle was of blue Velvet.

But in King Hen. VIIIth’s Statutes there’s no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the Mantle, which the Proxy of a Foreign Prince was enjoined to bring with him when he came to assume the Stall of his Principal; which, tho’ it does not come directly up to the Point, yet it is to be observed to be of blue Velvet. And it’s highly probable that the blue Colour remained still to be used; for within a few Months after the compiling the said Statutes, it’s plain, the Mantle sent to James King of Scotland, was of blue Velvet, and in the ancient Form of Admonition and Signification appointed to be spoke at the Investiture of Foreign Princes, and then in Plea it is called the Mantle of celestial Colour. Likewise the Mantle sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, 1 and 2 Ph. and Mar. was of the same Composure.

In Queen Elizabeth’s Reign, upon what Ground History is silent, the Colour of Foreign Prince’s Mantles was changed from Blue to Purple, for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the French Kings, Charles IX. Anno. 6 Eliz. and Hen. III. Ann. 27 Eliz. So also to the Emperor Maximilian 9 Elizabeth, to Fredrick II. King of Denmark, An. 24 Eliz. to Joh. Casimire Count Palatine of the Rhine, Anno 21 Eliz. to Christiern IV. King of Denmark, An. J. R. IV. But that sent to Frederick Duke of Wirtemberg in the same Year, was a mix’d Colour of Purple and Violet.

Thus the Purple Colour came in Request, and continued till about the 12 of King Charles I. when he determining to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, gave Directions to Mr. Peter Richaut, Merchant, to provide himself with a Quantity of rich blue Velvets from Genoa; and upon their arrival into England, signify’d his Pleasure by Sir Thomas Rowe the Chancellor, That all Knights-Companions should purchase as much of the said Velvet as would furnish them with new Robes against St. George’s-Day next ensuing; compliance to whose Will, all the Knights paid Obedience, at the Rate of Thirty seven Shillings a Yard, being the Price the Sovereign paid to Mr. Richaut for the Velvet of his own Robes. And the first Essay of these Mantles was to honour the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King Charles II.

And because there were many Knights-elect to be installed after the Restoration, it was ordained at the Chapter held at Whitehall the 14th of Jan. Anno 12. Car. 2. (called to consider of the Preparations of the grand Feast then at hand), That Directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe to negotiate Abroad for excellent Velvets of Skie Colour, and Crimson, and other Materials agreeable for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be installed; which was accordingly effected, and they were transmitted in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

Tho’ the just Number of Ells of Cloth for the Sovereigns Mantle at the first Institution are not set down, yet in the Total for his Mantle, Hood, and Surcoat, there was allowed ten Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King Henry VI. took up one Piece, five Ells and three Quarters of blue Velvet; and those sent to Frederick II. and Christian IV. Kings of Denmark; and to the French King, Henry III. contained each twenty Yards of Velvet.

This we find to be the Allowance for Foreign Princes, and are the more full and extensive, by reason of their long Train, which being more scanty in the Mantles of Knights-Subjects, eighteen Yards was sufficient to make one of them. The full Length of King Charles II. from the Collar behind to the end of the Train, was three Yards the Length of the foreside, one Yard and three Quarters from the Foot along the bottom to the fixing on of the Train, was two Yards, and from thence the Length or Compass of the Train, two Yards.

The left Shoulder of each of these Mantles have from the Institution been adorned with a large fair Garter, containing this Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense. These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroider’d upon the Surcoats and Hoods of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, by the Name of Garters Gross.

Within this Garter was the Arms of St. George, viz. Argent a Cross Gules, and was heretofore wrought in Sattin, with Gold, Silver and Silk; but in descending Times greater Expence and Magnificence became the Practice of the Order, for it was embordered upon Velvet with Damask, Gold, and sundry Sorts of Purls, Plates, Venice Twists and Silks, and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fix’d upon the Mantle of King Charles II. was encircled with large Oriental Pearl, so were the Letters of the Motto and the Cross within the Garter, the Diameter of which was seven Inches, but the Depth from the upper Part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

Temp. Hen. VI. it seems to have been the Mode to embellish the Mantle with three or four Velts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom, as it appears by the Monument of John Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury in the South-wall of the Chancel of Whitechurch in Com. Salop.

About that Time the Lining of this Robe was white Damask, and afterwards white Sattin; but of later Date it was lined with white Taffaty, which continues yet in vogue.

For exemplary Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar a pair of long Strings, anciently woven of blue Silk only (called Cordons, Robe-strings or Laces); but of later Days, twisted round and made of Venice Gold and Silk of the Colour of the Robe, at each end of which hung a great Knob or Button, wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold, and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

And at the Collar was usually fixed an Hook and Eye of Gold for its firmer affixing of it to the Shoulders.

§. 3. The Third Ensign of the Order is the Surcoat or Kirtle, which altho’ we find no Place for it in the Founder’s Statutes, is nevertheless as ancient as the Mantle or upper Robe, that is only taken Notice of there, for such a Vesture King Edward III. then made, together with his Mantle and a Hood to celebrate the first Feast of the Order in.

Its Original it owes to the Greeks and Romans; amongst whom this Garment had its determinated Tunica, and was worn next under the Toga, but amongst them was both narrower and shorter; it was girt close to the Body with a Girdle, and so fitted, that the Hem of it reached a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. It was the proper Mode of the Roman Citizens, and by its trimming were the three Degrees among them known; for the Senators Tunicks were embroidered or purfled over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain.

In setting forth the Surcoat, which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Sovereign or the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his Livery, we shall, as in the Description of the Mantle, treat somewhat of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity and Garnishing of it.

As to the Name in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe, it is stiled Roba, but more properly as the Founder’s first Surcoat is called Tunica, which Name it bears in the red Book of the Order. In English it is rendred Gown, Kirtle, Surcoat, Undercoat and Robe. The Appellation of Gown is attributed to Surcoats of the Sovereigns and Foreign Princes, Temp. Hen. VI. Edw. IV. and Hen. VII. But since, and very lately, it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Companions; and that of Kirtle sometimes given to those sent to Foreign Princes, as appears by the Books of Warrants in the great Wardrobe, but the rest are Terms of a later Date: As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were composed of Woollen Cloth, and tho’ the Cloth of the Mantles was in some space after changed for Velvet, yet the Surcoats continued afterwards to be of Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chancellor of the Garter was erected by King Edward IV. as is manifest by the Precedent of this Livery in the Sovereigns great Wardrobe; but in process of Time they became Velvet, which sort of Silk is yet retained.

The Colour of this Vesture was anciently changed every Year, commonly into Blue, Scarlet, Sanguine in Grain, or White. But the Colour of the Mantles remained the same as at the Institution, until Queen Elizabeth’s Reign, and then it commenced Blue: And ’tis remarkable, that the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, were always of the same Colour with the Sovereigns.

The Founder’s first Surcoat was of the same Cloth and Colour with the Mantle, viz. Blue, but in the 34th Year of his Reign he altered it to Black, and of the same Colour were those he conferred that Year upon these following Knights-Companions, viz. the Black Prince, the Earls of Ulster, Richmond and Salisbury, Edmund of Langly, Sir Richard la Vach, Sir Hugh Wrotesly, Sir Reginald Cobham, Sir Bartholomew Burghest, the Lord Mohun, Sir Walter Manney, Sir Nele Loring, Sir Walter Paveley, Sir William Fitz Warin, Sir Miles Stapleton, the Earls of Stafford, Warwick and Suffolk, and Sir Thomas Ughtred: The Motive that induced him to pitch upon this sable Colour, was conceived to be a kind of Humiliation, because the Pestilence began again to spread its Malevolence, which had furiously raged Eleven Years before. The Surcoats which the Sovereign gave the Dukes of Lancaster and Clarence, and Fourteen other Knights, Anno 37. Edward III. were of Cloth, Sanguine in Grain. Those Twenty four provided for the Feast of St. George, Anno 7 Richard II. were Violet in Grain, whereof one was for the Sovereign, the other Twenty three for the Knights-Companions, following John King of Castile, and Leonard Duke of Lancaster, the Earls of Cambridge, Buckingham, Derby, Kent, Warwick, Stafford, Salisbury, Northumberland and Nottingham, the Lords Nevil, Basset, and John Holland, Sir Guy Bryan, Sir William Beauchamp, Sir Thomas Percy, Sir Nele Loring, Sir John Sulby, Sir Lodowick Clifford, Sir Simon Burley, Sir Richard Burley, Sir Bryan Stapleton and Sir Soldan de la Trane.

Anno 11 Richard II. there were ordered against St. George’s Feast Twenty three Surcoats of white Cloth for the Sovereign, and Twenty two Knights-Companions; and the 12 and 19 Year of the same King, the Sovereign bestowed on the same Persons Surcoats of long blue Cloth, after the Original Model. The Twenty two Surcoats made up for the Feast of St. George, Anno 1 Henry V. were of white Cloth; Anno —— Henry VI. the Sovereigns Gown or Surcoat was of Scarlet, as was that sent to the King of Portugal in the 13th Year of the same King. Anno —— Henry VI. the Sovereign had white Cloth; and so were the Surcoats given to Twenty Knights-Companions more in the —— Year of his Reign. Afterwards the beforementioned Four Colours began to be disused, for the Surcoat presented to Julian de Medicis, temp. Edward IV. was purple Velvet, and towards the latter end of the Reign of King Henry VIII. and since, it is upon Record, the Surcoats of the Sovereign and all the Knights-Companions were Crimson Velvet, nor did the Colour suffer a Mutation in the Surcoat, tho’ King Charles I. restored the Mantle to its first primitive Colour, Anno 12 Regni sui.

There has been some disproportion in the Quantity of the Cloth allowed in the Provision against one and the same Feast, for Anno 34 Edward III. the Earls of Stafford, Warwick, and Suffolk, as also Sir Thomas Ughtred had then for each of their Surcoats six Ells of Cloth (perhaps the tallness of their Stature required it) when the other Fifteen Knights were allowed but five Ells, being the same Quantity the Sovereign’s Surcoat had contained in it at the same time.

The Dukes of Holland and Clarence, Anno 1 Henry V. with the Earls of Arundel, were allowed Eight Ells a-piece, the Dukes of Bedford, Gloucester and York, the Earls of Westmorland and Warwick, the Lords Grey, Fitz Hugh and Roos, six Ells apiece; the Earls of Dorset, with six Barons and five Knights Batchelors, but five Ells apiece. Afterwards, when the Number of Ells of Cloth, Garters and Furrs came to be ascertained for each Degree, all the Knights-Companions (even the Prince of Wales) were not to exceed five Ells: But since Velvet came in Plea, the Allowance for Surcoat and Hood hath been eighteen Yards, when the Surcoat reached down to the Feet; but now it being the Fashion to wear it shorter, the Allowance is stinted to Ten. The Length of King Charles II’s Surcoat was one Yard and an half, and of the Sleeve one Yard wanting a Nail.

The Ornamental Trimmings of these Garments are next worthy of Note, especially at the Time of Instituting this Order, for they were then, and a long time after, powdered all over with little Garters, embroidered with Silk and Gold-Plate, in each of which was neatly wrought the Motto, Honi soit, &c. Besides, the Buckles and Pendants to those small Garters, were Silver gilt; of these Garters there were no less than 160 upon the first Surcoat and Hood made for the Founder.

In King Richard II’s Reign, the little Garters that adorned the Surcoats of the Sovereign, and the other Knights were wrought in Embroidery upon blue Taffaty with Cyprus, and Soldat Gold and Silk of divers Colours, and the Letters Gold. And as the Sovereign was not limited in the Proportion of Cloth or Velvet for his Surcoat, no more was he confined to the Number of Garters, wherewith to adorn it; nor do I find that any of the Knights-Companions were, until the Precedent of the Livery of the Garter was settled, for Anno 1 Henry V. the Dukes of Holland and Clarence, the Earl of Arundel, the Dukes of Bedford and Gloucester had each of their Surcoats adorned with 120 Garters, but the Duke of York, and the rest wore but 100. The Settlement in the Precedent of the Livery was, in relation to Degrees of Honour, a greater or less Number of Garters: Thus,

A Duke120 Garters.
A Marquis110
An Earl100
A Viscount90
A Baron 80
A Baronet70
A Knight-Batchelor60

About the Reign of King Henry VI. the Sovereigns Number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allow’d to himself at the Institution; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King consisted of 173; and the King of Portugal, Anno 13 Henry VI. 120 Garters. But this Drapery of their Robes became at length quite obsolete, perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet, and the plain Surcoat hath to this Day continued in Use.

While these Surcoats remained of Cloth, they were lined with Bellies of pure Minever Fur, only the Sovereigns was purfled with Ermin; and of these, it seems, a like Proportion was at first stated to all the Knights-Companions, viz. 200 Bellies. Yet in the Reign of King Richard II. some Difference began in the Allowance to the Knights-Companions, for a Baron, and all Degrees upward had 200 Bellies; but under a Baron 120 only. However, Anno 1. Henry V. the Barons were tantamount to the Knights-Batchelors, for all Degrees above a Baron were allow’d, a Fur of 200 Bellies. But the Barons and Knights-Batchelors Furs were only 120 Bellies.

Afterwards, by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion limited, the Prince, a Duke, a Marquis, an Earl, had each of them Five Timber of pure Minever allowed to a Surcoat; but the Viscount, Baron, Baronet and Batchelor-Knights but Three Timber apiece. In time these Furs were disused, and the Surcoats came to be lined with white Sarcenet, to which, temp. Eliz. white Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.

What became of the old Surcoats, since the Knights-Companions had new ones every Year, the Black Book of the Order informs us, That on the Eve of the Feast of St. George, the Knights wore to Vespers, the Sovereigns Livery or Surcoats, used by them the preceding Year, which after that Night they threw off, (for the new Surcoats were worn on the Feast-Day); but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this Kind were disposed of to the Use of the Colledge.

The Hood and Cap comes in the next Place to be spoken of, which Hood in King Henry VIII’s Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order is called Humerale; but in the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, Capucium. In the French it is Chaperon, a Word used in the Statute, Anno 1. Richard II. C. 7. and also retained in the Old English Copy of Henry VIII’s Statutes made of his Reign, and annexed to this Treatise. They were anciently wore for Defence of the Head against the Inclemencies of Weather, but of later Times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they sat upon the Head, may be observed in the Portraitures of the first Founders; as also with some Variety of Fashion in succeeding Ages: Yet is not the Hood quite thrown by, since ’tis still kept reclining upon the Back, almost like a Pilgrim’s Hat.

This Hood was ordained, and is yet retained as part of the Habit of this most Noble Order. And tho’ neither it nor the Surcoat is mentioned in the Statutes of Institution, or in either its Exemplars, nor doth King Henry V. lay any Stress upon it, yet it is of equal Antiquity with the rest, as appears from the Rolls of the great Wardrobe, and Henry VIII’s Statutes have made remarkable Observation of it, for the Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, and Collar are called the Habit of the Order: And in the Black Book, Anno 22. Henry VII. at the Investiture of Philip King of Castile, the Mantle, Kirtle, Hood and Collar are expresly called Whole Habit.

It was heretofore, and now is generally made of the same Materials as the Surcoat, and was anciently trimmed and set off with a small Proportion of Garters lined with Cloth of a different Colour, and such as would best strike the Sight; but now with Taffaty, as is the Lining of the Surcoat.

As to the Cap, which was instituted to succeed the Hood; it hath been, and yet is, fashioned of black Velvet lin’d with Taffaty; but the Figure hath several Times varied; for Temp. Henry VIII. it was flat, in Queen Elizabeth’s Reign it was a little raised in the Head; but in King James’s Time they were much more high-crown’d. This Cap hath been usually adorn’d with Plumes of White Feathers, and Spriggs, and bound about with a Band set thick with Diamonds; so was the Cap for the Installation of King Charles II. and sometimes the Brims have been tack’d up with a large and costly Jewel.

This Custom of wearing Caps and Feathers at the Grand Solemnities of the Order, had, for some Time, about the Beginning of King James I. Reign, been omitted, and thereupon, in a Chapter held the 13th of April, Anno 10. Jac. I. this commendable Custom was re-establish’d.

To these may be added the Cross of the Order encompass’d with a Garter, which by the Sovereign was ordain’d the 27th of April, 2 Car. I. to be worn upon the Left Side of the Cloaks, Coats, and riding Cassocks of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, of the Prelate and Chancellor at all Times, when they were not adorn’d with their Robes, and in all Places and Assemblies (but not embellish’d with Pearls and Stones) that the wearing thereof might be a sufficient Indication to the World, of that Height of Honour they arriv’d to from the said most Noble Order, instituted for Persons of the greatest Merit and Worth.

And it was not long after e’er the Glory or Star, as it was usually call’d, having certain Beams of Silver, that shot out in Form of a Cross, was introduc’d and annex’d to it, in Imitation (as thought) of the French, who after the same manner wore the chief Ensign of the Order of the Holy Ghost, being the Representation of a Dove irradiated with such like Beams.

And whereas some Painters affirm the Symbol of the Holy Ghost to be thus adorn’d congruous enough, yet censure it improper for a Garter, let them consider that King Edw. IV. erected his White Rose with the like Glory, whereof both the Stone Work and Wood Work of St. George’s Chapel in Windsor, manifestly illustrate, whose Antiquity makes a Precedent for it long before the Institution of the Order of the Holy Ghost; but this King assum’d this Device upon appearance of three Suns, which suddenly united together into one immediately, before his successful Victory at Mortimer’s-Cross, a happy Æra he thought himself oblig’d to perpetuate. And they mistake who suppose it to be the Garter that is thus irradiated, whereas it is something else more worthy of the Glory, for from it, not the Garter, do the Rays diffuse, viz. the inclos’d Cross of the Order, celebrated as glorious, since it darted its bright Beams from Heaven, when it appear’d to Constantine the Great; as the same is represented on a Silver Medal: On the one Side whereof was a Bust in profile, or side Face of King Charles I. and on the Reverse, this Badge of the Order, within a Garter, inscrib’d, Honi, &c. a Cross irradiated, dispersing its Beams in a Rhombular Form of Eight Angles, beyond the Orbit or bounding Lines of the said Garter, having for Circumscription, Prisci decus Ordinis Auctum, 1629.

§ 5. Having finish’d our Discourse concerning the Robes of the Order, we shall speak of the Robes and Hoods assign’d to the Queen, Knights-Companions Wives, and other great Ladies, by the Donation of the Sovereigns, set off and embellished with Minute Garters, and lin’d with Rich Furs, which Robes they were adorn’d with during the Solemnity of the Feast of St. George, a Custom almost as ancient as its Institution. The first Mention we find recorded of the Feminine Habit occurs, Anno 7. R. II. when the Queen, the Sovereign’s Mother, the Dutchess of Lancaster, the Countesses of Cambridge, Buckingham, Pembroke, Oxford, and Salisbury, the Ladies Philippa and Catherine, Daughters to the Duke of Lancaster, and the Lady Mohun had such kind of Robes and Hoods provided for them. They were made of Cloth, Violet in Grain, like as the Sovereign and Knights-Companions that Year, the Robes lin’d with Fur, but the Hoods with Scarlet, and both embroidered over with little Garters, and the Proportion of Cloth, Furs, and Garters, were stated according to their several Ranks and Degrees; for the Queen had Eight Ells, and Half an Ell of Scarlet for the Lining of her Hood. The Sovereign’s Mother had allow’d her one whole Piece, and a double Proportion of Scarlet; but from the large Quantity it is conceiv’d she had Two Robes and Hoods made at this time: Besides, the particular Number are but Eleven Persons, and cannot else reach the Total of the Robes that were made up and expressly set down to be Twelve. The Dutchess of Lancaster had the Allowance of Half a Piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet; the Countess of Cambridge Seven Ells of Cloth and Half an Ell of Scarlet, and the rest of the Ladies the same Proportion of Cloth with the Knights-Companions, i. e. each Five Ells a-piece, and Half an Ell of Scarlet. According to their Cloth was also their Proportion of Minever; the Queen’s Allowance was Two Furs, each containing Three Hundred Bellies of pure Minever; the Sovereign’s Mother had twice that Proportion, the Dutchess of Lancaster, and Countess of Cambridge had the same Allowance as the Queen; but all the rest of the Ladies had only one Fur of Two Hundred Bellies. Besides the embroidered Garters to deck out the Twenty-four Surcoats of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, and the Twelve Robes for the Queen, and other Ladies, amounted to the Number of 2900.

Against the Feast of St. George, Anno. 11. R. II. there were prepared Fifteen Robes and Hoods for the Queen and other Ladies, of the same Livery and suit with the Sovereign and Knights-Companions, viz. White long Cloth, and Blue Cloth for the Lining of their Hoods, bearing the same Proportion in all Things as the former, Anno 13. Rich. II. the Ladies Robes and Hoods were Sanguine Cloth, and the Lining of their Hoods Cloth in Grain. And in the 19th Rich. II. they were Blue Cloth, and long Cloth in Grain for Lining their Hoods. In both these Years we find the Dutchess of Aquitaine had double the Proportion of Cloth allow’d her (as had also the Dutchess of York) viz. Fourteen Ells, (the Queen having then but the former Allowance of Eight Ells) and yet her Proportion of Lining, both for the Robe and Hood, was no more than allow’d the Queen.

But Anno 1 Henry V. the same Quantities of Cloth, Minevers, and Garters, were the same to Ladies of all Degrees, and that was to each Five Ells of White Woollen Cloth, only the Queen-Mother had Eight Ells of White Cloth and Eight Ells of Black Cloth, a Fee containing Two Hundred Bellies of Minever, and an Hundred embroidered Garters, and 12 Henry VI. the Master of the great Wardrobe was commanded to make ready the like Livery, both for Colour of Cloth, number of Ells, Bellies of Minever, and Garters, for the Countess of Suffolk, against the approaching Feast of St. George.

A plainer Narrative is made of these Liveries, Anno 16 Edw. IV. when at the Feast of St. George at Windesor, the Queen, the Lady Elizabeth, the King’s Daughter, and Dutchess of Suffolk, the King’s Sister, had for their Livery Murrey Gowns embroidered with Garters.

Besides these Robes worn by the Ladies at the Festivals of the Order, there seems to be some Imitation of wearing a Garter also on their Left Arms, as the Knights did on their Left Leg, as it is observ’d on the Countess of Tankervile’s Monument, where she is so pourtray’d.

After a long Disuse of these Robes, Anno 14 Car. I. there was an endeavour to restore it; for the Deputy Chancellor sollicited the Sovereign in Chapter, That the Ladies of the Knights-Companions might be granted the Privilege to wear a Garter of the Order about their Arms, and an upper Robe at Festival Times, according to ancient Usage, upon which Motion the Sovereign gave Order that the Queen’s Pleasure should be known herein, and the Affair left to the Ladies particular Request, and the Year ensuing, upon the Deputy Chancellor’s Report at another Chapter at Windesor, it was then left to a Chapter to be called by the Knights-Companions, to preponderate of every Circumstance, how it were fittest to be effected for the Honour and Lustre of the Order; which was appointed to be held at London about All-hollantide next; But the unhappy War breaking out, this Matter entirely broke off.

§ 6. There remains now the Collar and George, brought in by King Henry VIII. And first, of Collars in general, which is an Ornament not of late, but ancient Invention, and the wonderful Consent of most Nations plead for it: Sacred Writ sets down the Collar of Gold for one of the Ornaments Pharaoh conferr’d upon Joseph. The Images of Isis and Osiris were represented with such like Collars, in a manner, extending to their Shoulders, as Kircher informs us. Their Workmanship seems wonderfully curious, being intersected with various Lines, and divided with Tablets and precious Stones. The Collar was of an illustrious Original among the Romans, and gave Denomination to the Family of Torquati, descended from L. Manlius, whom the Soldiers surnam’d Torquatus, because he fought with a Champion of the Gauls, Anno V. C. 392. and, having foil’d him in fight, cut off his Head, and then pluck’d off his Collar, bloody as it was, and put it about his own Neck. In further Memory of which Action were found several Roman Coins referring to L. Torquatus, Consul with L. Cotta, Anno V. C. 688. And it’s remarkable that when one of another Tribe was adopted into this Family, he did also assume this Badge of Honour, as in the Coin of D. Junius Silanus, tho’ the Fashion of the Work somewhat differ’d from the former.

In pristine Times none but Kings and Princes wore Collars, and therefore their Use seems of Dignity and Power, as is evident from Daniel, where the Assyrian Kings used this Ornament. Afterwards Men famous for Wisdom and Council, had them as a distinguishing Badge, as in the Example of Joseph, and from the Proclamation of Belshazzar King of Babylon, who proposed it as a Præmium to him that could interpret the Hand-Writing upon the Wall. And Men famous for Military Atchievements had it conferr’d upon them, in Recompence of their Merits; thus Collars were of the Number of the Dona & Præmia Militaria among the Romans, and the Honour of receiving them thought worthy to be consign’d to Posterity in Marble Inscriptions. From them the later Emperors receiv’d it, and we read of investing a Knight of the Holy Sepulchre with a Collar at his Creation; where, as soon as the Ceremony of his Ordination is over, the Padre Guardian Kisses the new Made Knight, and puts about his Neck (according to the mode of the Ancients) a Golden Collar, with a Cross hanging at it.

Most aptly therefore have the Sovereigns of Military Orders annex’d this Ornament of the Collar to their Habit, and conferr’d it on the Fellows and Companions, many of whom have meritoriously deserv’d it for their great Wisdom and valorous Exploits, and for this reason it was instituted in additional Glory to the Ensigns of the Garter, compos’d in a peculiar manner, in Relation to the Name and Title; to the wearing of which the Sovereign oblig’d both himself and Knights-Companions, and his and their Successors.

This Collar was ordain’d to be of Gold Thirty Ounces Troy weight, but not to exceed it; howbeit that Collar sent to Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, weigh’d Thirty-four Ounces and a Quarter, and that of King Charles I. 35 Ounces and an Half; which, after his Sufferings, fell into the Hands of Thomas Harrison, one of Oliver’s Major-Generals, and was by him delivered to the Trustees for Sale of the King’s Goods: They, 1649. sent it to the Mint, with divers of the Regalia, to set the Stamp on work for the first Gold that the upstart Common-wealth coin’d.

It was appointed by King Henry VIII’s Statutes, that this Collar should be compos’d of Pieces of Gold in Fashion of Garters, the Ground enamelled Blue, and the Letters of the Motto Gold; in the midst of each Garter, Two Roses plac’d, the innermost enamelled Red, and the outermost White, contrarily in the next Garter, the innermost Rose enamelled White, and the outermost Red, and so alternately; but of later Times these Roses are wholly Red.

The Number of these Garters are so many as be the ordain’d Number of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions; at the Institution they were Twenty-six, being fasten’d together with as many Knots of Gold, and this Mode hitherto has continu’d invariable; nor ought the Collar to be adorn’d or enrich’d with precious Stones, (as the George may be) such being prohibited by the Law of the Order.

At the Middle of the Collar before pendant, at the Table of one of the Garters in the Collar is to be fix’d the Image of St. George arm’d sitting on Horseback, who having thrown the Dragon on his Back encounters him with a Tilting-Spear. This Jewel is not encompass’d with a Garter or Row of Diamonds, as in the lesser George; but in round Relief. It is allow’d to be beautified and sett off with Diamonds and other Enrichments, at the Pleasure of the Knight-Companion who possessed it, and upon that Score it hath been frequently adorn’d with Variety of costly Work, whereon the Diamonds, and other precious Stones, being set to that Advantage as might, upon its Motion and Agitation, dart forth a resplendent Lustre.

Before the Establishment of this Article by King Henry VIII. it appears that the Knights-Companions were invested with Collars at their Installations, for the Black Book makes mention of a Collar among the Ensigns of the Garter, wherewith Philip King of Castile was invested, Anno 22 Henry VII. but whether a Collar of SS’s, or of another Model, is not specifi’d: Nevertheless this Scruple is in part clear’d up by an old Memorial of the Ceremonies, at the Creating Henry Lord Stafford Earl of Wiltshire, 1 Henry VIII. where it is said in the Annals, that after he was invested with the Robes of his State and Dignity, the Collar of the Garter was put about his Neck at constituting him a Knight of the Order. And to make it more conspicuous in a Vellum Book of the Statutes sent to Maximilian the Emperor, sign’d 1508. by the Register T. Rowthale, and in another of Edward Stanley Lord Monteagle, elected ann. 6. Hen. VIII. the Forty First Article, enjoins a Collar to be worn by each Knight-Companion expresly called the Collar of the Order, which tho’ it be not in all Respects consentient to that prescribed by King Henry VIII’s Statutes, yet there is not much Variation, and ’tis reported to be a Gold Collar coupled together by several Pieces of Links, in Fashion of Garters, with a Vermilion Rose, and the Image of St. George hung thereat. The Reason of the Knights-Companions wearing it at the Times appointed, the License for putting it to mending, the Command not to enrich the Collar, but the George only; and under a Penalty not to sell, pawn or alienate it upon any Necessity whatsoever, are wholly the same as was afterwards enjoyn’d by King Henry VIII. So that he did but only annex to his Body of Statutes a Decree, which for the greatest part had been put in practise before. In the 11th Hen. VIII. upon Interpretation of the Eleventh Article of the Statutes, the Collar is there enumerated as part of the entire Robes that a Knight-Companion is oblig’d to wear, for a more convincing Proof, That the Collar of Garters was used before King Henry VIII’s Reign, the Monument of Sir Giles Daubeny plainly Delineates (who departed 22 Henry VII.) in Westminster-Abbey, where his Portraicture in the Robes of the Order is adorned with such a Collar as King Henry VIII’s Statutes do afterwards describe.

As the Garter sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, so the great George (pendant at his Collar weighing Seven Ounces) was set with large and resplendent Diamonds, to the Number of Eighty-Four.

In what Regard this Noble Ensign of Honour the Collar, hath been with the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, not only of the Order of the Garter, but other Military Orders, may be collected from the Pictures of some of them, as well as from their Seals, Coins, and Medals, for in these they have been pleased to exhibit their Effigies and Escutcheons of Arms; and omitting Foreign Examples, the Collars, both of the Garter and Thistle, were express’d in the Coronation Medal of King Charles I. in Scotland, 1633. tho’ in that of his Coronation at Westminster, and afterwards in that of King Charles II. 1661. the Collar of the Order of the Garter are only put over their Royal Robes.

These Ornaments of the Collars, have been affix’d sometimes encircling the Shields of their Arms; and in a Seal of Charles the Bold Duke of Burgundy, Sovereign of the Order of the Golden Fleece, plac’d to an Instrument dated, 1470. it is worthy of Remark, that Collar adorns the Neck of the Lyon of Flanders; but the Sovereigns of the Garter usually encompass’d their Arms, not within the Collar of the Order, but the Royal Garter, that being its principal Ensign; and sometimes, having no Shield of Arms, the void Space within the Garter, exhibits their Arms.

Observable is the Seal of Charles Count Palatine of the Rhine, wherein is a Shield quarterly of the Palatinate and Bavaria, obscuring the Lyon Guardant its Supporter, his Four SS’s only appearing quadrangularly, and his Head a top ensign’d with an Electoral Crown; this Shield is encircled both within the Garter and Collar of the Order, and is the first Example wherein both these Ensigns are jointly together. It is very frequent to express the Collars of different Orders together: Thus I have seen the Arms of Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester, entour’d within the Garter, and a Collar of the Order of St. Michael, having been Knight of these Orders, and the Funeral Atchievement of the late James Hamilton Douglas Duke of Hamilton, had the Garter and a Collar of the Thistle about it. And in a Plate under the Effigies of the Duke of Aspernons, a Shield of his Arms quarter’d, is encompass’d with the chiefest Ensigns of those Three Orders, whereof he was a Brother and Companion, viz. with the Garter and the Collars of St. Michael and the Holy Ghost. And the older the Order is in the Roll of Antiquity, whose chief Ensign is there represented, the nearer ought it to be plac’d to the Escutcheon of Arms, being the more Honourable Post. A Mistake was committed in the marshalling these Collars, when the Duke of Chevereux affixed it over his Stall at Windsor, the Collars of St. Mithael and the Holy Ghost are plac’d nearer to his Escutcheon than that of the Garter.

§ 8. And whereas we have spoke of another kind of Collar, call’d a Collar of SS’s, worn as Badges of lower and inferior Honour, it will not be amiss to inform our Judgment in other Affairs concerning them. Wicelius informs us from a Book in the Library of Fulda, where (in the Life of the Two Brothers Simplicius and Faustinus, both Senators, and suffer’d Martyrdom under Dioclesian) there is a Description of the Society of St. Simplicius, consisting of Noble Personages in their own Families, and describing the Collar wore as the Badge of it says, thus: It was the Custom of those Persons to wear about their Necks Silver Collars, compos’d of double SS’s, which denote the Name of Saint Simplicius, between these double SS’s. The Collar consisted of Twelve small Plates of Silver, in which were engraven the Twelve Articles of the Creed, together with a single Trefoil: The Image of St. Simplicius hung at the Collar, and from it Seven Plates, representing the Seven Gifts of the Holy Ghost. As to the manner of their Martyrdom, they were bound together by the Neck to a Stone, and thrown over the Bridge into the River Tyber.

At what Time the Collar of SS’s came into England is not fully determin’d, but it will appear at least Three Hundred Years since, and worn as an Ornament for Women, as well as Men; for on a Monument in the Collegiate Church of Warwick, the Figure of Margaret, Wife to Sir William Peito (said to be interr’d Temp. Edw. III.) hath a Collar of SS’s drawn about, and set close to her Neck, which the Sculpture in The Antiquities of Warwickshire, by mistake, represented like a Ruff. There was also a Collar of SS’s about the Neck of Sir Simon Burley’s Statue in St. Paul’s London.

In the ancient Creation of an Esquire in England, part of the Ceremony was the King’s putting about his Neck a Silver Collar of SS’s. And Selden, in his Titles of Honour contemns not the old Ballad, The Tanner of Tamworth, to prove the Creation of Esquires in King Edw. IV’s Reign, by conferring such Collars on them. But that the Golden one was the undoubted Badge of a Knight, as may be instanc’d by many undeniable Examples, deduc’d from the Monuments of such Persons, Temp. Hen. VI. Ed. IV. Hen. VII. Hen. VIII. and since, and so legally appropriate thereto, that in the Act 24 H. VIII. made for Reformation of Apparel, there is a Proviso entred, That Knights, notwithstanding, might publickly wear a Gold Collar of SS’s, tho’ since it is grown obsolete and useless. Favin tells us that our Hen. V. instituted an Order surnam’d Knights of the SS’s on the Day of the Martyrs St. Crispine and Crispianus; which tho’ he found nothing of it in our English Historians, yet from the Chronicle of Juvenal des Ursins, where he treats of the Battle of Agincourt, he collected this following Relation.

“The King of England exhorted his Men, and commanded, That if any had trespass’d against another, they should be reconcil’d and confess’d to the Priests, otherwise no good Success wou’d accrew to them in their Attempts. He advis’d them to be civil in their March, and to do their Duty well, and agreed upon these Conditions, That those of their Company who were not of gentle Extraction he wou’d make so from the Fountain of Honour, and give them Warrants, that for the future they should enjoy the Privileges the Gentlemen of England had; and to the End they might be distinguish’d from others, he granted them leave to wear a Collar powder’d with the Letter S.”

Among the Variety of Collars of SS’s now in vogue, there are these following: The Lord Mayor of London’s Collar is compos’d of Gold, having a Knot (like one of those that tye the Garters together in the great Collar of the Order) inserted between Two SSs, and they again situated between Two Roses, viz. a White Rose within a Red, and in the Middle before the Breast is a large Portcullis, whereat hangs a most rich Jewel sett with large Diamonds.

The Collars of the Lords Chief Justices of both the Benches, and the chief Baron of the Exchequer, are (in Memory of the said St. Simplicius, a Senator, and consequently a Gownman) form’d of the Letter S, and a Knot alternately, having a Rose set in that part of it which falls out to be in the Middle of their Breasts, and another on their Backs; the Five Flowers of these Roses are constituted of Five large Pearls.

Those Collars, which appertain to the Kings and Heralds of Arms, as well as to Serjeants at Arms, having been bestow’d by former Kings, and renew’d to them by King Charles II. to be worn upon Days of solemn Attendance, are compos’d of SS’s link’d together. In the Middle of the Breast is a Rose, at each of which hangs Three small Drops of Silver; but the SS’s in the Collars worn by the Kings of Arms are made somewhat larger than the other, and in that part lying on either Shoulder, is a Portcullis taken in between the SS’s, which are wanting in the rest.

The general difference of the Collars appropriate to the before-named Degrees, is this; Knights have allow’d them Collars of Silver gilt, but Esquires only Silver; and therefore in the Creating of an Herald, in part of that Ceremony, he is made an Esquire, by putting on him a Collar of SS’s of Silver; and so is a Serjeant at Arms.

The Kings of England have sometimes been pictured with a Collar of SS’s about their Arms, in like manner as the Garter doth surround them, as appears from an Impression of King Henry VIII’s Privy Signet; whereon his Royal Arms crown’d are encircled with a Collar of SS’s, to the lower End of which are affix’d Two Portcullisses.

§ 9. We come now to the lesser George of the Order; and we do not find that the Effigies of St. George was at any time worn by the Sovereign or Knights-Companions, before the Breast or under the Arm, as now used till the 13th of Henry VIII. But then that King decreed in a Chapter held at Greenwich, the Morrow after St. George’s Day, That every Knight should wear loosely before his Breast the Image of St. George in a Gold Chain, or otherwise, in a Ribband, the same to be fasten’d within the ennobled Garter, for a manifest Distinction between the Knights-Companions, and others of the Nobility and Knights, who, according to the Mode of those Times, wore large Gold Chains, the ordinary Ensigns of Knighthood. And thus the wearing the Medal or Jewel, usually call’d the lesser George, to distinguish it from the other Work at the Collar of the Order, first receiv’d the Injunction, and hath since been frequently used.

This George was, for the most part, pure Gold curiously wrought, but divers of them were exquisitely graved in Onyx’s and Agats, and with such a happy Collection of the Stones, that heightned and received their Beauty by the Skill of the Artificer, in contriving the Figures and History, the natural Tincture of the Stones have so fitted them with Colours for Flesh, Hair, and every thing else, even to Surprize and Admiration. In this Jewel is St. George represented in a Riding Posture encountring the Dragon with his drawn Sword.

By the last Article of King Henry VIII’s. Statutes, it was allowed to be enriched at the Pleasure of the Possessor, (as is the great George) which for the most Part hath been curiously enamell’d, and the Garter about it sett with Diamonds. And of what weight and bigness these lesser George’s were, may be gather’d from that sent to the French King Charles IX. being an Ounce and an half and half quarter Weight. The Variety of Workmanship in those Gold Chains whereat this Jewel hung, was usually great, according to the Fancy and Pleasure of the Persons for whom they were wrought. But within a short Space, wearing the lesser George in Silk-Ribbands, as well as Gold-Chains, was promiscuously us’d and ad Libitum. (So were the Symbols of Foreign Orders, as divers Coins and Medals declare.) But the Colour of these Ribbands when they came first to be wore, was black. John Dudley Viscount Lisle, the Lords St. John and Parr, so used them at their Investiture, 35 Henry VIII. and several Pictures of other Knights-Companions about that time confirm the same. That small Chain whereat hung the lesser George transmitted to Emanuel of Savoy, Ann. 1 & 2 Ph. & Mar. was formed of twelve Pieces of Gold, in every of which was sett three small Diamonds, and of twelve other like Pieces, wherein were three Rubies and twenty four Pearls.

It appears by a Letter of Sir Richard St. George, Kt. Clarencieux, dated July 10th, 1627. that the blue Ribband had some Years before been additional to the Ornament of the Order; and ’tis reported, that Robert Earl of Essex observing in France the Jewels of the Order of St. Michael and St. Esprit worn in blue Ribbands, upon his return was the principal motive those Ribbands whereat the George hung, were exchanged into that Colour. And in a Picture of Queen Elizabeth, drawn towards the Declension of her Reign, her lesser George is represented hanging before her Breast in a blue Ribband. And this Colour was more caressed, and grew in great repute, by reason it was the Ground of the Garter, and nearest the Colour of the Mantle of the Order: So that toward the latter End of the Reign of King James I. because the dye of the Ribband had not been peculiarly express’d in any Statute, and the blue and azure accustomed for some Years past, it was decreed, That for the future it should be always of blue, and no other; nor in time of Mourning it self, should be changed.

The Manner of wearing this Ribband in time of Peace, was of later Times pendant about the Neck, down to the Middle of the Breast, where the lesser George hung; but since, for the more Conveniency of Riding or Action, the same is spread over the left Shoulder, and brought under the right Arm where the Jewel hangs.

But where the Pictures of the Sovereign and Knights-Companions are drawn in Armour, there even to this Day the George is represented as fix’d to a Gold Chain instead of a blue Ribband, and worn about the Neck, not brought under the right Arm, as exhibited on the three Pound Pieces of Gold stamped at Oxford by King Charles I. 1643. and a Medal of Charles Count Palatine of the Rhine, dated 1645.

Among the invaluable Jewels and other Curiosities of King Charles I. which came to the Hands of the Trustees appointed for Sale of his Goods, were these,

l.s.d.
A George containing 161 Diamonds, Sold for7120
A George cut in Onyx, with 41 Diamonds in the Garnish,3700
A small George with a few Diamonds 900
A George with 5 Rubies and 3 Diamonds, and 11 Diamonds in a Box 1100
A George cut in a Garnet800
Total13620

The George King Charles I. had at his Martyrdom, was curiously Engraved in an Onyx set about with twenty One large Table-Diamonds in the Fashion of a Garter. On the reverse of the said George was the Picture of the Queen set in a Case of Gold, the Lid neatly enamell’d with Goldsmith’s Work, and surrounded with another Garter adorned with an equal Number of Diamonds, as was that of King Charles II. also sett with fair Diamonds; and after the Defeat given to the Scotch Forces at Worcester, 4 Car. II. was strangely preserved by Colonel Blague, one of that King’s dispersed Attendants, who resigned it for safety to the Wife of Mr. Barlow of Blare-Pipe-House in Stafford-shire, where he took Sanctuary; from whom Robert Milward Esq; receiv’d and gave it into the Hands of Mr. Isaac Walton, (all Loyalists.) It came again to Blague’s Possession, then Prisoner in the Tower; whence making his escape, he restor’d it to King Charles II.

It is worthy of Remark, that besides the Sovereign of the most Noble Order of the Garter, other Princes of Christendom have assumed the bearing St. George encountring the Dragon in like Posture, tho’ not so anciently, nor upon the same Grounds and Foundation as they; probably having elected him Patron and Guardian of their Countries or Families; such as the Emperors of Russia, the Dukes of Mantua, and the Counts Mansfield in Germany, as their Seals and Coins plainly demonstrate.

In the Great Seal of Borice Feodorwicke, Emperour of Russia affixed to his Letter sent to Queen Elizabeth, dated at Mosco, June 12th, 1602, was a double Headed Eagle displaid, having each Head crowned, and bearing an Eschutcheon with the Representation of St. George upon its Breast. There is another of this Emperour’s Great Seals, fixed to his Letter, dated May 31st. 1594. which he also sent to Queen Elizabeth. On one side is the above-said Eagle, having on his Breast an Escutcheon charged with an Horse currant; the Reverse the Figure of St. George encountring the Dragon with his Spear. The Great Seal of Alexie Michaelowich, Emperour of Russia, affixed to his Letters sent King Charles II. 1660. hath a like Eagle with a third Crown situated between the two Heads, and bearing in a Cartouch-Compartment upon his Breast, the Figure of St. George: Which Representation of St. George and the Dragon, we find assigned for Arms, to Anne de Russie, Daughter to Jarislaus King of Russia and Muscovia, given in Espousal to Henry I. King of France, 1051. and thus Blazon’d, D’in St. Marthe de Gueules, a un homme a Cheval, d’argent, tenant une Lance en la main, qu’il darde en la gueule d’un Dragon renverse.

The Counts of Mansfield have frequently stamp’d it on their Coin. On one side is St. George encountring the Dragon with his Sword, with this Circumscription, Sanct. Geo. Co. do. de Man. on the reverse, his Arms circumscribed, Mon. de Arc. Co. do. de Man. Of those of the Dukes of Mantua, we may see one of Vincentius Duke of Mantua and Montferat, a Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece, wherein is his Effigies to the Breast, Vinc. D. G. Dux MANT. III. MONTFERU. on the Reverse St. George and the Dragon, Motto, Protector nostra aspic. 1591. and Casal at the Bottom.

§ 10. When the Habit or part of it ought to be worn is the next thing we shall speak of.

The more solemn Days and Occasions which require a fuller conformity, and the wearing the whole Habit, i. e. the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, Collar, Great George, and Cap, are first, The High Festival of the Order, commonly called St. George’s Feast, whether it be solemnized on the 22d, 23d or 24th of April, annually, or any other Days within the Year by Prorogation, as is apparent by all the Bodies of the Statutes.

For, First it is ordained, That the Knights-Companions should be Arrayed in the whole Habit on the Eve of St. George, before the Sovereign proceeded to the Chapter to hear Divine Service, and being so Robed, should attend on the Sovereign to the Chapter-House, thence to the Chapel, and return with him back in the same manner, until after Supper, as well those that minded to Sup, as those that should not Sup; nor might they disrobe, until the Sovereign or his Deputy had put off his, or declar’d it seasonable for his or their doing so.

By the same Statute they were enjoined to wear the whole Habit on the Feast of St. George, both at their Progression in the Morning to the Chapter-House or Chapel, at their return to Dinner from thence to the Second Vespers, and back to Supper, as also till Supper was over, and until the Sovereign or his Lieutenant took leave of the rest of the Knights-Companions.

Secondly, It is manifest from King Henry VIII’s Statutes, That the Eve, the Day of St. George, and Morrow following, were to be observed with solemn Service, and holding of Chapters wheresoever the Sovereign was resident; tho’ the Grand Feast were Prorogued to a longer Duration; and when by reason of such Prorogation, they should convene in any Place besides Windsor to attend the Sovereign for the Solemnization of St. George’s Day, they then must Adorn themselves with the whole Habit from beginning of the first Vespers, until the last Evening Service of the same Day.

Thirdly, On such other Days of the Year whereon the Grand Feast is held by Prorogation, and during such Part of the Eve and Day of the Feast, as is before appointed when it is held on its proper Day.

Fourthly, By absent Knights, whensoever the Grand Feast of St. George should be celebrated, and wheresoever they should happen at that time to reside, (if at Liberty, and not under restraint) to keep it in like manner as if then present with the Sovereign, or his Deputy in the Place where he should Celebrate the Feast. The time of wearing the whole Habit in this Point extends but to the End of the second Vespers, as in the second Instance above.

Fifthly, The Knights-Companions are to wear the entire Habit at the Feasts of Installation when they assist at that Ceremony; where, if it commence in the Evening, they are not to disrobe themselves till after Supper; and being the next Morning habited as before, then to proceed to the Chapter-House or Chapel, and not to devest themselves till Dinner is ended.

The less solemn Occasions are those, which require the wearing the Mantle or Collar of the Order only.

And they are first, upon the Morrow after the Grand Feast-Day, when the Sovereign and Knights-Companions proceed to the Chapel, and make their Offering; then it sufficeth, that they barely put on the Mantle, which, Service being Finished, they were wont to leave it at the Chapter-House-Door as they retired out of the Chapel.

Secondly, As often as Chapters are called, and in what Place soever assembled, either for Elections, or other Causes, as it shall please the Sovereign to nominate: And as often as it is requisite for the Sovereign, or any of the Knights-Companions to enter into the Chapel of St. George at Windsor; and in reference hereunto, is the Article 15 E. 3. was that their Mantles should remain in the Vestry at Windsor, that upon any sudden emergency, they might be in readiness: for in the Inventory of the Chapel taken 8 R. 2. we find remaining at that time in the Vestry, a Mantle appertaining to the Sovereign, another to John Duke of Britain, a third to John Holland Earl of Huntington, another to Edmund Langley Earl of Cambridge, and one to Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, all of them then surviving: And by a Decree past at the Grand Feast 1 H. 6. the Mantle of the young Sovereign was appointed to be left at Windsor, as the Statutes required; and this Article was confirmed by King Henry VIII. by Virtue whereof, the Mantles of the Emperor Charles V. and Anna Duke of Montmorency, were left in the Custody of the Dean and Canons of Windsor. And heretofore in the Bill of drawing up Matters necessary for the Installation of a Knight-Companion, there were usually two Mantles set down; one expressed to be left in the College, and the other for all other Occasions that might intervene.

These Mantles thus ordered to be reposed in the College upon emergent Occasions, were anciently committed to the Custody of the Black-Rod, as granted by Letters Patent with the Office 1 H. 5. And after the Death of the Owners, devolved to the Dean and Canons of Windsor, either for the publick Use of the Knights-Companions when they casually came to Windsor, or else sold sometimes to the Heirs of the Deceased, or others who succeeded in the Order, as that of Charles V. was to the Earl of Bedford, and that of the Constable of France lent to the Earl of Warwick, Ann. 7 Eliz. which appears from the Accounts of the Chanter of the College, temp. H. 4. H. 5. H. 8. Q. Eliz. and Jac. 1. who in all times answered the full Benefit thereof to the College, as being a certain Perquisite to the Dean and Canons, which they accordingly had and enjoyed.

And yet we find some of the College made over-bold with the Robe of Sigismond the Emperour, and sold it while he surviv’d. But the Archbishop of York, who, as Chancellor of England, visited the College, 1431. secured the Money from being distributed among those that sold it, and reserved the Dividend to the Dean and Chapter that should chance to be living at that Emperour’s Expiration; and commanded for the Future under Pain of Excommunication, That no Dean and Canon should imbezil or aliene any Knights-Companion’s Mantle while he was alive, but the same should be decently and faithfully kept and preserved. But we are informed, that this Statute was altered, Ann. 9 Eliz. and one drawn up to this effect, That the Knights-Companions should be bound by Oath to take care by their Wills, that after their Decease, all the Ornaments which they had received should be restored, the Robes to the College, and the Jewels to the Sovereign that gave them.

In the last Place, the Times of wearing the Collar of the Order, with the Great George appendant, which is not only enjoined to be worn (as part of the Habit) at the grand Feasts and Feasts of Installation, but also at other times when not any of the rest of the Habit is ordered (saving the Garter) is to be worn, as in special, at the principal and solemn Feasts of the Year, and other Feast-Days: To which a particular Order in Chapter, Ann. 4 Eliz. thus directs,

The Holy-days and Sundays within the twelve Days.

St. Matthias Day.

Holydays in Easter-Week.

St. Mark’s Day.

St. Philip and Jacob’s Day.

Holy-days in Whitsun-Week.

St. Peter’s Day.

St. James’s Day.

St. Bartholomew.

St. Matthew.

St. Luke.

St. Simon and Jude.

St. Andrew.

St. Thomas.

Besides these, the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions have been accustomed to wear this Ensign upon the Anniversary of the Sovereign’s Coronation, of the Gun-Powder Treason, and, of later Times, on the Sovereign’s Birth-day: So formerly upon some occasional Ceremonies not relative to the Order; as when a Knight-Companion hath been created into Titles of Dignity and Honour, he had the Collar of the Garter added to his Investiture, as appears in the Case of Henry Stafford, created Earl of Wiltshire, Ann. 1 Hen. 8. And at a Chapter held May 22d. 1622. That such Knights-Companions as should afterwards assist at the Funeral of any Knight-Companion, should wear the Collar apert at the said Funeral. And it was so observed by the Dukes of Ormond and Richmond, the Earls of Manchester and Sandwich, at the Obsequies of George Monk Duke of Albemarle.

Howbeit, the Custom is otherwise as to wearing the Garter, the principal Ensign of the Order; for tho’ it be injoyned to be wore at the grand Festivals, &c. yet it does not imply that it might be left off: For indeed it ought daily to be worn both by the Sovereign and Knights Companions. And therefore was it decreed even in its Institution, That if any Knight-Companion should in publick be found without one buckled about his Leg, upon Challenge he should be mulct a Noble to the Dean and College of Windsor. By King Henry VIII. the Fine was raised a Mark, payable as before to any of the five Officers of the Order, or to the Dean; besides which Fine, the Knight lies liable to a Check. But to alleviate the Strictness, and obviating other Inconveniencies, King Henry V. admitted of a Qualification; and in case of riding with Boots, ordained, That it might suffice if the Knight-Companion wore some Ribband or Silk-Lace to represent the Garter; tho’ in this very Article there is a Proviso, That no Knight-Companion should enter into Chapter, without his Garter buckled about the Leg.

In short, King Henry VIII. ordained, That the Gold-Chain whereat the lesser George (in that Age) hung, should be worn all other days in the Year, except the Principal and Solemn Feasts, whereon the great Collar was ordained to be worn, and except in time of War, Sickness, or long Voyage, in any of which Cases, a Silk-Lace or Ribband, with the Image of St. George thereat, was sufficient; and the blue Ribband having since succeeded in Place of the Gold Chain, the Injunction of this Statute extends to it in all particulars.