No. 13. A CALF’S HEAD.
An entire calf’s head, served in its natural form, recalls too forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has belonged not to be very uninviting. Even when the half of one only is sent to table, something of the same aspect remains, and as it is in every way improved, and rendered most easy to carve when boned[[7]] and rolled, we would recommend its being so prepared whenever it can be done without difficulty. Our engraving does not give a very flattering representation of it in that form, but having been dressed with the skin on, it was not quite so easily brought into handsome shape as if it had been freed from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is carved across the cheek, in the line from a to b; the part which in flavour and appearance resembles a sweetbread, and which is regarded as a delicacy, lies in the direction indicated by the letters c d. The flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel, which must be detached from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole, in the circle marked e e.
[7]. This will be more easily accomplished by an experienced cook after the head has been boiled for half an hour and then allowed to cool; but it should not be left until cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing. After the bones are removed, it should be laid on a clean cloth, and the inside sprinkled over or rubbed with a little salt, mace, and cayenne, well mixed together; the tongue may be laid upon, and rolled up in it. It must be secured, first with a skewer, and then bound tightly round with tape. It should be boiled or stewed extremely tender; and is excellent when just covered with good stock, and simmered for two hours, or when strong broth is substituted for this, and the bones are added to it. The head may be glazed, and served with rich brown gravy, or with the ordinary sauces if preferred; and it may be eaten cold, with Oxford brawn sauce, which is compounded of brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt, mixed to the taste, with the addition of oil when it is liked.