Naples—1785.
The Bishop of Castellamare, who was more than eighty years of age, still mounted his horse. He was very good-natured and cheerful, and enjoyed excellent health, which he attributed to his practice of fumigating his apartments with perfumed gums. He had been for many hours buried under the ruins of the house he inhabited in Calabria, at the time of the great earthquake. The solidity of a beam saved him from being crushed when the roof fell in. He is the only person whom I can recollect of our Roman or Neapolitan acquaintance who ever endeavoured to bring me over to the Roman Catholic religion. I begged him not to talk to me on the subject; but he persisted in doing so. At last I said, with the impertinent familiarity which his good nature encouraged: “Well, you shall say what you please if for every half hour of this advice you will send me a basket of curious specimens of lava and minerals for a friend of mine, who is making a fine collection.” The good Bishop took the hint, sent me several baskets of curious specimens of minerals, and never uttered another word on the subject of conversion. I am sorry to add, that soon after we left Naples, being made “Cappellano Maggiore,” or high almoner to the King, who had a great regard for him, he was obliged to give up his usual mode of life, and did not long survive his honours.
Mr. and Mrs. Piozzi passed the winter at Naples and gave little concerts. He played with great taste on the pianoforte, and used to carry about a miniature one in his carriage. Mrs. Piozzi read to my mother part of a manuscript, which she afterwards published, respecting Dr. Johnson; but as she was angry with him on account of his disapproval of her second marriage, she occasionally mentioned him in a manner that displeased my mother, who always preserved a high veneration for his memory.
Brilliant and gay as Naples then was, I did not like it so well as Rome, nor indeed so well as I liked it at two subsequent visits. However, we had no reason to complain of the time we passed in this capital, the Parthenope of old, and still in a great measure retaining its ancient character. Balls were given at what was called the “Accademia de’ Nobili,” something in the style of Almack’s. There was also another “Accademia” for persons of the second class, as there was a considerable number of opulent merchants from different countries visiting Naples. The King and Queen made their appearance at each at least once a year, and the foreign Ministers also went to both from time to time.
Sir William Hamilton had a very fine collection of Etruscan vases and some good pictures. From his house, and more particularly from a boudoir on the upper floor, he used to enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, reflected on the mirrors which covered the entire side of the room opposite to the semicircular window. The bay, by moonlight, appeared to great advantage, and sometimes the full moon seemed to emerge from the crater of Mount Vesuvius. On other nights it was curious to see the lighted boats employed in the tunny fishery. The various kinds of shell-fish which are found here are not to be told. The sailors of the country pretend that everything which exists on land has its fellow in the sea. Sea-oranges and sea-lemons I have seen and sketched; and one day, as we were in a boat, we saw a little nautilus sailing and rowing beside us.
The King of Naples had gone to Leghorn, I forget on what occasion, but his little squadron sailed in not long after our arrival, in very good style. He was accompanied by an English frigate, commanded by Captain Blankett, an old friend of my mother, with whom she had constantly corresponded since our departure from England, and whose letters were very entertaining. Through him we were first made known to General Acton, who was then, and for many years afterwards, everything at Naples. He was Commander-in-Chief by land and sea, Minister, confidential friend of the King and Queen, and in his politics much attached to Austria and England. He was of a very ancient English Roman Catholic family, but, I think, was born in France or Flanders. His elder brother was in the Austrian service. He himself had been a midshipman in our navy, but as in those days young men of his religion could not hold commissions, he went into the Tuscan service, in which he obtained the command of a frigate. When the Court of Naples wanted to put its navy on a better footing, he was summoned thither for that purpose.
We were introduced to the Queen by her “Cameriera Maggiore,” from whose apartment we walked through many passages of the palace, preceded by one of her footmen, carrying a lantern, for it was evening. We found her Majesty standing by a marble table between two windows. She asked us a few indifferent questions, and then dismissed us to receive others. From that time we were invited to everything that was going forward, but the amusements were chiefly hunting-parties; no offence, however, was taken at sending excuses.