| I—At the Base of the Rockies. | |
| First Impressions of the Mountains. A Problem, and its Solution. Denver—Descriptive and Historical. The Resources which Assure its Future. Some General Information concerning the Mining, Stock Raising and Agricultural Interests of Colorado. | [13] |
| II—Along the Foothills. |
| The Expedition Moves. Its Personnel. The Romantic Attractions of the Divide. Light on Monument Park. Colorado Springs, a City of Homes, of Morality and Culture. Its Pleasant Environs: Glen Eyrie, Blair Athol, Austin’s Glen, the Cheyenne Cañons | [26] |
| III—A Mountain Spa. |
| Manitou, and the Mineral Springs. The Ascent of Pike’s Peak; bronchos and blue noses. Ute Pass, and Rainbow Falls. The Garden of the Gods. Manitou Park. Williams’ Cañon, and the Cave of the Winds. An Indian Legend. | [36] |
| IV—Pueblo and its Furnaces. |
| The Largest Smelter in the World. The Colorado Coal and Iron Company. Pueblo’s Claims as a Trade Center, and its Tributary Railway System. A Chapter of Facts and Figures in support of the New Pittsburgh. | [51] |
| V—Over the Sangre de Cristo. |
| Up and down Veta Mountain, with some Extracts from a letter. Veta Pass, and the Muleshoe Curve. Spanish Peaks. Beautiful Scenery, and Famous Railroading. A general outline of the Rocky Mountain Ranges. | [60] |
| VI—San Luis Park. |
| A Fertile and Well-watered Valley. The Method of Irrigation. Sierra Blanca. A Digression to describe the Home on Wheels. Alamosa, Antonito and Conejos. Cattle, Sheep and Agriculture in the largest Mountain Park. | [71] |
| VII—The Invasion of New Mexico. |
| Barranca, among the Sunflowers. An Excursion to Ojo Caliente, and Description of the Hot Springs. Pre-historic Relics—a Rich Field for the Archæologist. Señor vs. Burro. An Ancient Church, with its Sacred Images. | [81] |
| VIII—El Mexicano y Puebloano. |
| Comanche Cañon and Embudo. The Penitentes. The Rio Grande Valley; Alcalde, Chamita and Espanola. New Mexican Life, Homes and Industries. The Indian Pueblos, and their Strange History. Architecture, Pottery, and Threshing. | [92] |
| IX—Santa Fe and the Sacred Valley. |
| Santa Fe, the Oldest City in the United States. Fact and Tradition. San Fernandez de Taos—the Home of Kit Carson. Pueblo de Taos Birthplace of Montezuma, and Typical and Well-Preserved. The Festival of St. Geronimo. Exit Amos. | [106] |
| X—Toltec Gorge. |
| Heading for the San Juan Country. From Mesa to Mountain Top. The Curl of the Whiplash. Above the silvery Los Pinos. Phantom Curve. A Startling Peep from Toltec Tunnel. Eva Cliff. “In Memoriam.” | [115] |
| XI—Along the Southern Border. |
| The Piños-Chama Summit. Trout and Game. The Groves of Chama. Mexican Rural Life at Tierra Amarilla. The Iron Trail. Rio San Juan and its Tributaries. Pagosa Springs. Apache Visitors. The Southern Utes. Durango. | [120] |
| XII—The Queen of the Cañons. |
| Geology of the Sierra San Juan. The Attractions of Trimble Springs. Beauty and Fertility of the Animas Valley. The Cañon of the River of Lost Souls. Engineering under difficulties. The Needles, and Garfield Peak. | [129] |
| XIII—Silver San Juan. |
| Geological Resume. Scraps of History. Snow-shoes and Avalanches. The Mining Camps of Animas Forks, Mineral Point, Eureka and Howardville. Early Days in Baker’s Park. Poughkeepsie, Picayune and Cunningham Gulches. The Hanging. | [136] |
| XIV—Beyond the Ranges. |
| Ophir, Rico, and the La Plata Mountains. Everything triangular. Mixed Mineralogy, Real bits of Beauty. “When I sell my Mine.” An Unbiased Opinion. Placer vs. Fissure Vein Mining. | [149] |
| XV—The Antiquities of the Rio San Juan. |
| Rugged Trails. Searching for Antiquities. The Discovery. Habitations of a Lost Race. Prehistoric Architecture, “Temple or Refrigerator.” “Ruins, Ancient beyond all Knowing.” Guesses and Traditions. Some Appropriate Verses. | [156] |
| XVI—On the Upper Rio Grande. |
| Good-bye and Welcome. Del Norte and the Gold Summit. Among the River Ranches. Wagon Wheel Springs. Healing Power of the Waters. The Gap and its History. A Day’s Trout Fishing. | [166] |
| XVII—El Moro and Cañon City. |
| A Great Natural Fortress. Down in a Coal Mine. The Coke Ovens. Huerfano Park and its Coal. Cañon City Historically. Coal Measures. Resources of the Foothills. | [177] |
| XVIII—In the Wet Mountain Valley. |
| Grape Creek Cañon. The Dome of the Temple. Wet Mountain Valley. The Legend of Rosita. Hardscrabble District. Silver Cliff and its Strange Mine. The Foothills of the Sierra Mojada. Geological Theories. | [185] |
| XIX—The Royal Gorge. |
| The Grand Cañon of the Arkansas. Its Culminating Chasm the Royal Gorge. Beetling Cliffs and Narrow Waters. Running the Gauntlet. Wonders of Plutonic Force. A Story of the Cañon. | [193] |
| XX—The Arkansas Valley. |
| Entering Brown’s Cañon. The Iron Mines of Calumet. Salida. Farming on the Arkansas. Buena Vista. Granate and its Gold Placers,—Twin Lakes. Malta and its Charcoal Burners. A Burned-out Gulch. | [201] |
| XXI—Camp of the Carbonates. |
| California Gulch. How Boughtown was Built. Some Lively Scenes. Discovery of Carbonates. The Rush of 1878. The Founding of Leadville. A Happy Grave Digger. Practice and Theory of Mining. Reducing the Ores. | [209] |
| XXII—Across the Tennessee and Fremont’s Pass. |
| Hay Meadows on the Upper Arkansas. Climbing Tennessee Pass. Mount of the Holy Cross. Red Cliff. Ore in Battle Mountain. Through Eagle River Cañon. The Artist’s Elysium. Two Miles in the Air. On the Blue. | [222] |
| XXIII—From Poncho Springs to Villa Grove. |
| In Hot Water. A Pretty Village and Fine Outlook. Pluto’s Reservoirs. The Madame’s Letter. Poncho Pass. The Sangre de Cristo Again. Villa Grove. Silver and Iron. | [225] |
| XXIV—Through Marshall Pass. |
| The Unknown Gunnison. A Wonder of Progress. Climbing the Mountains in a Parlor Car. Four Hours of Scenic Delight. Culmination of Man’s Skill. On the Crest of the Continent. The Mysterious Descent. | [243] |
| XXV—Gunnison and Crested Butte. |
| Tomichi Valley. Gunnison from Oregon to St. Louis. Captain Gunnison’s Discoveries. A Discussion with Chief Ouray. A Beautiful Landscape. Crested Butte. Anthracite in the Rockies. | [250] |
| XXVI—A Trip to Lake City. |
| Lake City. A Picture from Nature. A Hard Pillow. The Mining Interests. Alpine Grandeur of the Scenery. The Home of the Bear and the Elk. Game, Game, Game. 262 |
| XXVII—Impressions of the Black Cañon. |
| The Observation Car. Gunnison River. Trout Fishing Again. The Rock Cleft in Twain. A Beautiful Cataract. A Mighty Needle. The Cañon Black yet Sunny. Impressions of the Cañon. Majestic Forms and Splendid Colors. | [266] |
| XXVIII—The Uncompahgre Valley. |
| Cline’s Ranch. Montrose. The Madame and Chum Respectfully Decline. The Trip to Ouray. The Military Post. Chief Ouray’s Widow. The Road on the Bluff. Hot Springs. Brilliant Stars. | [273] |
| XXIX—Ouray and Red Mountain. |
| A Pretty Mountain Town. Trials of the Prospectors. A Tradition. From Silverton to Ouray by Wagon. Enchanting Gorges and Alluring Peaks. The Yankee Girl. A Cave of Carbonates. Vermillion Cliffs. Dallas Station. | [278] |
| XXX—Montrose and Delta. |
| Playing Billiards. Caught in the Act. A Well-Watered District. Coal and Cattle. A Fruit Garden. A Big Irrigating Ditch. The Snowy Elk Mountains. A Substantial Track. A Long Bridge. | [290] |
| XXXI—The Grand River Valley. |
| An Honest Circular. Grand Junction. Staking Out Ranches. The Recipe for Good Soil. Watering the Valley. Value of Water. Some Big Corn in the Far West. A Land of Plenty. Going West. | [296] |
| XXXII—The Colorado Cañons. |
| A Memorable Night-Journey. Skirting the Uncompahgre Plateau. Origin of the Sierra La Sal. Crossing the Green River. Wonders of Erosive Work. An Indian Tradition. The Marvelous Cañons of the Colorado. | [303] |
| XXXIII—Crossing the Wasatch. |
| The Tall Cliffs of Price River and Castle Cañon. Castle Gate. The Summit of the Wasatch. “Indians!” San Pete and Sevier Valleys. “Like Iser Rolling Rapidly.” Through the Cañon of the Spanish Fork. Mount Nebo. | [312] |
| XXXIV—By Utah Lakes. |
| Rural Scenes Beside Lake Utah. Spanish Fork, Springville, Provo and Nephi. Relics of Indian Wars. Pretty Fruit Sellers. First Sight of Deseret and the Great Salt Lake. Ogden and Its History. | [317] |
| XXXV—Salt Lake City. |
| Sunday in Salt Lake City. The Tabernacle and the Temple. Early Days in Utah. Shady Trees and Sparkling Brooks. Social Peculiarities of the City. Mining and Mercantile Prosperity. Religious Sects. Schools and Seminaries. | [324] |
| XXXVI—Salt Lake and the Wasatch. |
| The Ride to Salt Lake. A Salt Water Bath. Keep Your Mouth Shut. The Shore of the Lake. An Exciting Chase. A Trip to Alta. Stone for the Temple. An Exhilarating Ride. | [335] |
| XXXVII—Au Revoir. |
| At Last. On Jordan’s Banks. Chum’s Grandfather. Let Every Injun Carry his Own Skillet. The Parting Toast. Good-Night. | [342] |