NORTHERN SASKATCHEWAN.
Tree Growth and Timber Resources.
A Rare Bit of Sylvan Beauty.—Ash-Leaved Maples Successfully Grown From Seed.—Notes by The Way on Available Water Powers.—Much Country Covered with Small Timber Not Generally of Commercial Value.—Some Areas of Good Timber Which Will be Invaluable To the Settlers.
The wide belt of territory north of the Saskatchewan as far northward as Churchill and Clearwater rivers, is pre-eminently a wooded country, its resources in the way of timber being very valuable, and its forest-clothed mounds, river valleys and lake basins imparting to it a beautiful park-like appearance in marked contrast to the more monotonous scenery of the great prairie country south of the Saskatchewan. There is little doubt that the scenic beauties of the region, by attracting travellers, will, when there is railway communication, contribute materially to the development of the natural resources of this extremely promising portion of the, as yet, unexploited northwest. Included in this territory is the famous scenery of Methye portage, which for upwards of a century has excited the admiration of explorers and travellers as perhaps the most superb natural panorama of forest scenery in North America. Of the many books and diaries of men who have had the privilege of enjoying this view, there is not one which omits to pay tribute to its beauty.
Alexander Mackenzie, in the account of his trip of 1789, describes the height of land overlooking the Clearwater from Methye portage as commanding “a most extensive, romantic and ravishing prospect. From here the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by some called Swan river, by others Clearwater or Pelican river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods and left a dreary void behind it. . . . . . . .”
Mackenzie, further, declares this “enchanting scenery” to be a “wonderful display of uncultivated nature.”
Most Delightful Natural Scenery.
Harmon, writing in 1800, gives us the following as his impression of this view:—“About a mile from this end of the portage is a hill, which towers majestically to the height of a thousand feet above the plain below, and which commands a most extensive and delightful prospect. Two lofty and extensive ridges enclose a valley about three miles in width, which stretches far as the eye can reach. Little river, which is also, by different persons, denominated Swan, Clearwater, or Pelican river, winds in a most delightful manner along this charming valley. The majestic forests, which wave upon these ridges, the delightful verdure of the intervening lawn, and the beautiful stream which wanders along through it, giving a pleasing variety to the scene, until these objects become blended with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most delightful natural scenery that I ever beheld.”
Sir John Franklin, in his account of his expeditions, writing of the view from the heights above the Clearwater at Methye portage, describes it as “the most picturesque and romantic prospect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of high hills run parallel to each other for several miles until the faint blue haze hides their particular characters, when they slightly change their course and are lost to the view.”
Captain (later Sir) George Back makes enthusiastic references to this beautiful view, for instance the following:—“A thousand feet below, the sylvan landscape lay spread before us, to the extent of thirty-six miles, in all the wild luxuriance of its summer clothing. Even the most jaded of the party, as he broke from the gloom of the wood on this enchanting scene, seemed to forget his weariness, and halted involuntarily with his burden
To Gaze For a Moment,
with a sort of wondering admiration, on a spectacle so novel and magnificent. . . . . . . . . . . There is something appalling in the vastness of a solitude like this.”
Sir George Simpson, in his narrative, speaks of “that noble view of Clearwater river which has been drawn with so much truth and beauty by Sir George Back.”
Bishop Tache, in the accounts of his travels, writes of the Clearwater:—“This delightful little stream, rising to the east of Methye portage has, up to the present time, and in spite of the difficulties of navigation, enjoyed almost the exclusive privilege of supplying a route to Athabaska-Mackenzie. On descending the heights of Methye portage one takes boat on this little river which, in order to keep the traveller in the midst of the beauties it presents to his view, places obstructions in the way, necessitating the portages of White Mud, the Pines, Bigstone, the Horse and the Cascades.”
The early travellers were also impressed with the fine trees in this section of the northwest, and occasionally mention extra fine groves which attracted their attention. For instance, Simpson speaks of “firs of great size” on a projecting point in Methye lake, and, referring to one of his camps in Clearwater valley, says:—“One of the pines, under shelter of which we took up our night’s lodgings, measured three yards in girth at five feet from the ground.”
As in other parts of Canada, forest fires have wrought dreadful havoc in parts of this belt, but there still remains considerable areas of good timber.
The Venerable Archdeacon McKay, in his examination before the Senate committee of 1907, stated that as to the country around Lac la Ronge there is timber all through it, wherever it has not been destroyed by fires. He explained that he put up a sawmill operated by water power at Lac la Ronge in 1906. The logs that are sawn there are the kind of timber found in that part of the country. They average seventeen logs to the thousand feet. They would be logs fourteen or fifteen feet long. The diameter would be about two feet across at the butt—good, large logs, clean timber, very much the same timber as at Prince Albert. This good timber is scattered all over the country, sometimes for miles. It depends on the nature of the country.
Asked how far this timber area would outskirt to the east, west and north, the Archdeacon replied he would say that kind of country extended all the way through right down to Lac la Ronge, and down all the way to the border of the province. Although he had not been through it, he had travelled backwards and forwards on it a good deal, visited Indian camps and so on, and it is very much the same kind of timber all through. In some places it is muskeg, and in some places heavy timber. Reindeer lake is not north of the tree limit. There are trees there, but they are small. They do not grow so large as farther south. It is a good way north of Reindeer lake before the barren grounds are reached. The Archdeacon had never been farther north than Reindeer lake.
Timber about Lac la Ronge.
Mr. Tyrrell describes the country immediately north of the Saskatchewan as a thickly wooded belt, “which contains a large quantity of timber, chiefly white spruce, trees up to eighteen inches in diameter. It is a wooded country with trees from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, tall with clean trunks—good, nice timber. Of course, the timber does not grow as large on high, dry, sandy ridges as it grows in the valleys. Most of the timber is in good soil in the valley bottoms, but there is more or less land all over. The poplar and birch affects the higher land, and the spruce and hemlock the valleys.”
Mr. Dowling states that the sides of Green lake are “densely wooded with poplar and spruce.”
Pioneer Arboriculture.
Speaking of his visit to Ile à la Crosse lake, Mr. Dowling states in his report:—“Some ash-leaved maples had been planted in the garden of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, which are now from ten to fifteen feet high, quite healthy and bearing abundant seed.”
According to Mr. Dowling’s report “The timber in the rocky country bordered by the southern shore of Lac la Ronge is not large or abundant. Southward there is some improvement, and large individual spruce trees occur occasionally. The ‘lob sticks’ at Big Stone, Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, are fine examples of these. On Montreal river, small Banksian pine cover the eastern slope of the sandy plateau. No large timber, spruce or pine, is seen till near the lake, where at the southern end some groves of large spruce occur. On the watershed south of Montreal and Deer lakes the largest timber is seen. Here the formation of the country is evidently morainic, but southward the country slopes gently towards Saskatchewan river.”
Some Merchantable Timber Areas.
Mr. Crean reports that a considerable quantity of merchantable spruce timber is to be found in Methye lake section. There is some remarkably fine spruce along the banks of Whitefish river, and it extends in not very dense forest across to Methye lake, a distance of about eight miles.
Summarizing the results of his explorations in 1908, Mr. Crean reports.—“Although numerous prairie openings occur, this tract may be spoken of as practically covered with small timber not generally of any commercial value. The poplar is the principal growth, and, following the rule so well known throughout the western prairie country, indicates good land. Some spruce is found and large quantities of small second growth jackpine. There is some tamarack. There is, of course, no white or red pine. The poplar in some places would make fine pulpwood or barrel staves. Generally speaking it is of no commercial value. There are several small groves of good spruce along Churchill river, and at Methye portage there is a large quantity of good spruce. Along Whitefish river the timber is large and of good quality. On both the east and west side of Green lake some good timber is found but it is scattered. Generally there is ample timber for settlers’ use, but not enough to supply any lumber industry.
“Throughout this district there are many points where a large amount of water power could be developed, and there are numerous small power sites. The district might be utilized so as to create great industrial centres. The great advantage of the numerous water powers is the fact that sufficient power can be obtained at many points to supply the needs of a fair sized community. On almost every stream there are sites where small powers could be easily developed and grist mills, saw mills, lighting and pumping plants could be operated at the minimum of expense. I did not gauge or measure the possibilities of any of the water powers, but made rough estimates of a few prominent ones. On Beaver river at what is termed Grand rapids probably
Ten Thousand Horse Power Could be Developed.
Rapid river, which enters the Churchill about seven miles below Stanley, falls seventy feet in one cascade. This should afford a large amount of power. Churchill river between Ile à la Crosse lake and Knee lake, a distance of about twenty-five miles, has a fall of eighty feet. This fall is practically all in three rapids, all of which have sharp descents. At one rapid there is a cascade eight feet high. All the tributaries on the north side of the Churchill afford ample opportunity of development of power. Mudjatik river is a series of water-falls.”
Mr. Crean, in his report of 1909, says:—“Waterhen river is very rapid, and along it are several small falls and steep descents. These would be ample to develop power for a small community, but not enough for any commercial proposition. On Clearwater river occurs one of the best commercial water powers which I have seen. It could be easily and inexpensively developed.”
All reports agree in saying that there are numerous water powers susceptible of development throughout the area under review, but there is not much detailed information given on this point.
Prairie along Clearwater river.
Mr. Crean reports that along Whitefish river there is a considerable quantity of good tamarack, but explains that although this timber would be extremely useful to any settler going into the country, he did not think there was sufficient for any commercial project. There is a considerable quantity of timber north of Waterhen lake and river. There are several scattered clumps of fine spruce in this locality which are passed on the string of small portages when one is travelling from Waterhen lake to Island river. The diameter would average perhaps twelve inches, but running up to twenty-four inches.
The Native Timber Trees.
Mr. Crean incorporates in his report the following description, with comparative values, of the most common kinds of timber found in the north:—
“(1). White Spruce (Picea canadensis (Mill) B., S. & P.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, straight grained, light yellow, with hardly distinguishable sapwood. This is the best tree for lumber purposes in the northern forest, and is also one of the best for pulpwood. It usually grows on higher ground than the black spruce.
“(2) Black Spruce (Picea mariana (Mill), B., S. & P.)
The wood resembles closely that of the white spruce, and as lumber or pulpwood no distinction is made between them. The wood has a slight red tinge and has paler sapwood. The black spruce grows usually in muskegs and low places and owing to the coldness of the soil does not grow fast, and is usually small, not usually over six or eight inches in diameter.
“(3). Jackpine (Pinus Banksiana, Am.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, close grained and dark, nearly brown in colour, with light thick sapwood. This tree is used mostly for railway ties and fuel, but is manufactured into lumber to some extent. It is not equal in colour or smoothness to the wood of the spruce. It is used for pulp, but has not so fine a fibre or colour as the spruce.
“(4). Tamarack (Larix americana, Michx.)
The wood is light brown, heavy, hard, strong, rather coarse grained and very durable. It is used for railway ties, posts and dimension timbers. It is not sawn into lumber, being more useful for other purposes, and is not used for pulp.
“(5). Poplar, Aspen or White Poplar (Populus tremuloides, Michx.)
The wood is light brown with almost white sapwood. It is smooth and easily worked. It is used for pulp and is cut into lumber for inside finish. As it is a widely extended and quick growing tree it is used largely for fuel. Next to the spruce it is the most valuable tree for pulp. It is manufactured largely into finer grades of paper by the soda process.
“(6). Balsam or Black Poplar (Populus balsamifera).
The wood is light brown, with thick sapwood. It is rather coarse and not strong. It is chiefly used for fuel, though sometimes cut into boards where other lumber is not available. It is not so valuable as the aspen poplar.
“(7). Birch (Betula papyrifera, Marsh).
The wood is light, strong, tough, hard, very close grained, light brown, tinged with red, with thick, nearly white sapwood. It is used for spools, lasts and turned work generally. Birch fibre is short and brittle, and not easily bleached, and is not suitable for pulp.”
Reindeer lake and river.
The district north of Churchill and Clearwater rivers, authorities agree, is only thinly wooded, the growth becoming smaller towards the northern limit. According to Mr. Tyrrell, the banks of Churchill river from Methye portage to the north of Reindeer river are low and thickly wooded with spruce and poplar. White spruce (Picea Alba) forms some groves of fair size in the bottom lands along Reindeer river near Churchill river, but farther north it is rarely seen except in some particularly favorable localities. One small isolated grove of white spruce was found in a high sandy island in Hatchet lake, standing out conspicuously in the midst of the surrounding forest of small black spruce. Poplar (Populus tremuloides) and Birch (Betula papyrifera) are the only remaining trees of any importance. They are chiefly found in the vicinity of Churchill river, though small scattered trees were seen on the banks of Stone river. The rocky shores and islands of Reindeer lake are generally thinly covered with a sparse growth of small, black spruce. The irregular shores of Wollaston lake are chiefly composed of thinly wooded, rocky hills. Geikie river flows between low, sparsely-wooded banks. The banks of Mudjatik river are thinly wooded with Banksian pine and spruce. As to Cree river, surrounding country is sandy and very barren supporting but a scanty growth of black spruce and Banksian pine, with very little underbrush. Some fine, large, white spruce were noticed at spots on Geikie river.
Near Lake Athabaska.
Mr. Tyrrell mentions that along the northeast shore of Lake Athabaska, “Some good white spruce, up to fourteen inches in diameter, is growing on the points.”
Mr. Tyrrell, before the Senate committee of 1907, in speaking of the forests of the country north of the Churchill, explained that far in the north there is the tract of country that has no trees on it; then a belt of country from one to two hundred miles in width, with small Banksian pine, spruce, larch, poplar and some white birch. He would not consider any of those woods valuable for timber purposes, except locally. They would serve for pulpwood, but the growth is not thick. Still over considerable areas there might, of course, be a large quantity of timber for pulpwood. In that belt the trees would average probably six inches. Occasionally you would find some a good deal larger. The poplar grows on the drier lands. It is not an indication of good land in an extremely northern country. It indicates a dry, sandy soil, but further south it indicates excellent soil.