NORTHERN SASKATCHEWAN.
Game, Fur-Bearing Animals and Fish.
“So Fine a Country for the Chase That It May Be Regarded as an Extensive Preserve.”—The Wood Buffalo Used To Roam Over It, but Do Not Now.—Moose and Caribou Plentiful.—The Indians Kill the Moose for Their Hides.—Fish of Various Kinds in Abundance.—Sturgeon That Weigh a Hundred Pounds.—One Indian Killed Eighteen Moose During One Season.
As fish has always been the staple food of the inhabitants of that part of the province of Saskatchewan north of the river of that name, and the fur trade their only industry, it goes without saying that the country abounds in fish and game. A very few quotations from travellers and explorers is all that is required to give an idea of the species of fish and animals to be found in this region, and of their occurrence.
In his account of his passage through the Clearwater country, Simpson writes:—“This is a fine country for the chase, and so little frequented in winter, that it may be regarded as an extensive preserve. We saw three moose deer on the top of one of the hills, and their tracks and those of the wood buffalo were numerous in every direction. The valley of the river is entirely sheltered from the inclement north and northwest winds, but its exposure to the east usually rendered the snow deep and soft, as we found to our cost. . . . . . . . . Just before breakfasting we saw, on the northern hills, a large moose, and a band of five wood buffalos sunning their fat sides—a sight sufficient to make the mouths of the pemmican eaters water, but they were beyond our reach, and, taking the alarm, quickly disappeared. The declivities of the hills seemed, as we passed along, completely chequered with the tracks of these and smaller animals.”
Mr. H. J. Moberly, chief trader of the Hudson’s Bay Company at Rapid river, (Lac la Ronge) Cumberland district, forwarded the Senate committee of 1887 evidence in writing regarding animal life in the far northwest. He explained that he knew Saskatchewan (north) river and valley from the mouth of the Saskatchewan on Lake Winnipeg up to its source in Rocky mountains. He also knew Athabaska river and valley from its source down to its mouth in Athabaska lake, and was well acquainted with all the country between those two rivers, from Rocky mountains down to Carlton, and from there, taking a line via Green lake, Beaver river, Ile à la Crosse lake, Deep river, Buffalo lake, Methye river and lake, Methye portage and down the Clearwater to its junction with Athabaska river, as an eastern line and Rocky mountains as a westward. He knew well all the country between Athabaska and Peace rivers, from their mouths to their sources.
As to wood buffalo, at the time Mr. Moberly wrote, there was a band, probably about two hundred, between the Saskatchewan and the Athabaska. (There are none there now). They kept on the mountains between Lac la Biche and McMurray. Another band, probably three hundred strong, was between Athabaska and Peace rivers on Thickwood and Birch mountains. A third band, probably seven hundred strong, was scattered through the mountains between Liard and Peace rivers, and from Salt river to the foot of Rocky mountains.
Moose Run All Over the Wooded Country
north of the prairies and east of Rocky mountains.
The distribution of other game and fur animals in far northwestern Canada was given by Mr. Moberly as follows:—Reindeer (cariboo), large—all over the wood countries from Saskatchewan, to the barren grounds of the north; reindeer, small—all over the barren grounds in the north, and come south in winter as far as Lac de Brochet, Athabaska lake and Peace river, close to Rocky mountains; red deer—Athabaska and Peace river valleys; black tail deer, jumping deer and chevreux—same country as the red deer; black and brown bears—all over the wooded country and Rocky mountains; grizzly bears—Rocky mountains, valleys of the Peace, Athabaska, Liard, and Fraser, but seldom farther than two hundred and fifty miles from the foot of the Rockies; beaver—Athabaska, Peace river and in fact all over the wooded country.
In his report of his exploration of the country between Churchill river and Lake Athabaska in 1892, Mr. J. B. Tyrrell writes:—“The moose (Alces Americanus), roams through the more thickly wooded parts of the country as far north as Stone river, which is probably near the northern limit of its range. Seven individuals in all were seen during the course of the summer. The woodland caribou (Rangifer caribou) is said to occur in the more southern portion of the district, near Churchill river, but none were seen. The barren ground caribou (Rangifer Grœnlandicus) comes south in winter to the south end of Reindeer lake and the upper portion of Mudjatik and Foster rivers. It travels north in spring to the Barren Lands, but a very few animals are occasionally left behind, one having been shot in July near the north end of Cree lake. The Canada lynx (Lynx Canadensis) is moderately abundant in some seasons in the more southern part of the district. The gray wolf (Canis lupus occidentalis) roams over the country, but is not plentiful. The coyote (Canis lisatrans) is found occasionally as far north as the height of land, one having been shot by the writer on one of the small lakes near the source of Foster river. It is, however, certainly not common in the district. Red, black and cross foxes (Vulpes vulgaris), wolverine (Guloluscus), marten (Mustela Americana), weasel (Putorius vulgaris), mink (P. vison) and skunk (Mephitis mephitica) are all found in greater or less abundance in the rolling wooded country underlain by Archaean rocks. The otter (Lutra Canadensis) was found on all the streams north to Stone river. The black bear (Ursus Americanus) roams over the whole country. A few beavers (Castor fiber) may still be met with in many of the streams. A considerable colony was found in the untravelled country near the source of Geikie river, but our canoemen brought back word of this (to the Indians) important discovery, and doubtless the beaver were killed during the following winter. The muskrat (Fiber zibethicus) was seen swimming in all the streams. The rabbit or American hare (Lepus Americanus) is found everywhere in the denser woods, but it did not seem to be anywhere abundant.
Fish in Abundance.
“Fish seem to be everywhere abundant in the lakes and streams, but the number of species is very limited. The lake trout, (Cristivomer namaycush) is, however, the largest of any of the finny tribes. One was caught near the mouth of Stone river weighing twenty-five pounds. The whitefish (Coregonus clupeiformis) is found everywhere throughout the district, but more especially in the shallower lakes. The blue fish or Back’s grayling, (Thymallus signifer) was caught in Stone river at the foot of the heavy falls below Black lake. Pike, (Esox lucius), pickerel, (Stozostethium vitreum), methy, (Lota lacustris) and two or three species of suckers, (Catastomus teres and Myxostoma macrolepidota) were found in almost all the water stretches.
Mayor Cook, of Prince Albert, when examined before the Senate committee of 1907, explained that at that time he held the appointment of inspector of fisheries. He testified that once, some years previously, on Beaver river, he had seen thirty-two thousand whitefish caught in two nights, which would average about two or two and one-half pounds each. They put up the winter supply of fish in three or four nights. These fish were caught by half-breeds and Indians. The fish were coming down after spawning, and those catching them set the nets right across the river. This happened in close season, “but they did not bother about that; it was the fish they were after.” There are whitefish, trout, jackfish and some sturgeon in Torch and Saskatchewan rivers. Reindeer lake and the small lakes all around it are full of fish. They fish up there until December 1. Sometimes the lakes are open until December 15, and break up again about May 15 to 20. It depends upon the size of the lake. If it is a very large lake it will take a little longer. Witness had seen the lakes open on December 15. Those lakes are teeming with fish,—whitefish, sturgeon and trout. The trout run as high as fifty pounds.
The sturgeon run from ten to one hundred pounds. Witness had never seen one over one hundred pounds. He had seen one whitefish that weighed seventeen and one-half pounds, and trout that weighed fifty. He had them for the exhibition in Ottawa, but the train was blocked and did not get through. The biggest jackfish he had ever seen weighed forty-five pounds. They have some little bits of things but they range up to that. In other places they have big fish from ten to forty-five pounds in weight.
According to Mr. Crean, Methye lake is a fine body of fresh water and is well stocked with fish. “Wild fowl of every kind abound here. Moose and caribou are plentiful. The result of Nature’s bounteousness, is that the native, content with Nature’s provision, grows nothing. He kills the moose for its hide.”
In his report on the area explored by him, in 1908, Mr. Crean stated:—“The staple food of the native north of the Saskatchewan is fish, and with this commodity he is amply supplied. Whitefish are found in all the lakes and rivers. Green lake is stocked to repletion with as fine whitefish as will be found anywhere. Ile à la Crosse lake is also amply supplied. Canoe lake, Marten lake and all the immense water area comprised of the numerous lakes in this district are well stocked with this valuable food.
“Game of all kinds abound, the principal species being the moose, the caribou, the deer, the black bear, the cinnamon bear, the lynx, the wolf (timber), the fox, the wolverine, the otter, the beaver, the mink, the marten, the muskrat, the rabbit, and the squirrel. Among the principal birds found are swans, geese, ducks, partridges, ptarmigans, gulls, jays, (whiskey jacks), kingfishers, crows, robins and loons.
Moose are Still Plentiful
but are being killed in large numbers by the natives and the wolves. The same remark would apply to caribou of the woodland variety. The barren land caribou or reindeer come down as far as Cree lake (one hundred miles north of the Churchill) in numbers, and a few stray farther south. I shot one in the muskeg just north of Lac Ile à la Crosse.”
Landscape in Clearwater valley.
Mr. Crean states that an Indian living on Snake lake at the mouth of Sandy river killed eighteen moose during the autumn of 1908.
“Game, particularly moose,” according to Mr. Crean, “is plentiful in the Meadow lake district, and easily obtained. Beaver are plentiful in one or two districts, particularly along Clearwater valley and the rivers tributary to the Clearwater from the north. They are, of course, very easily killed, and consequently form a large portion of the fur in the north. When other fur is scarce, the Indian devotes his attention in particular to the killing of beaver. Muskrat were extremely numerous and were taken in very large numbers. Early in the fall, however, before the fur could possibly be of any use they were being killed in great numbers.”
THE ATHABASKA COUNTRY