THE BARREN LANDS, OR “ARCTIC PRAIRIE.”
Tree Growth and Timber Resources.
Phenomenal Extensions of Tree Growth Within the Barren Lands Along the Valley of Thelon river.—Black Spruce, Larch, White Spruce, Banskian Pine and Birch.—Valuable Timber Along the Thelon, About the East End of Great Slave lake and Between Great Bear lake and Coppermine river.
In his valuable report, Mr. E. A. Preble, of the United States Biological Survey, states that Coppermine, Thelon, and many of the smaller rivers of the Barren Lands are wooded to some extent on their upper portions, but by far the greater part of the area drained by them is treeless.
Mr. Preble traces the northern boundary of the great transcontinental forest from the western shore of Hudson bay to the mouth of the Mackenzie as follows:—“Starting from the mouth of Churchill river, Hudson bay, the tree-line follows the shore closely for a few miles and then curves gently inland. Thence it extends northwesterly crossing Nueltin, or Island lake, Ennadai lake on Kazan river and Boyd lake on the Dubawnt. Just north of 63 degrees on Artillery lake is the next point where we have a definite dividing line. Between the Dubawnt and Artillery lake is the valley of the upper Thelon or Ark-i-linik, along whose banks the forest extends in a narrow line far into the general treeless area. From Artillery lake the line extends northwestward to Point lake, curving toward the southwest in the interval and crossing Lake Mackay, south of latitude 64 degrees. From Point lake, whose shores are practically devoid of trees, nearly to latitude 67 degrees the banks of the Coppermine are so thinly wooded that the river may be taken as the approximate boundary of the woods. Spruces occur on the Coppermine as far north as the mouth of Kendall river, but are absent from the summit of the divide between there and Great Bear lake and reappear on lower Dease river. Between Dease river and the lower Anderson the boundary of the woods is not well known.”
It will be remembered by those familiar with the subject, that, in defining the eastern end of the forest line, Mr. Preble has closely followed the definition laid down by Mr. J. B. Tyrrell in the official report of his exploration of the country south and east of Dubawnt lakes and Chesterfield inlet. Mr. Tyrrell states in his report:—
“The region may be divided into Forests, and Treeless Plains or ‘Barren Lands’, by a line which curves around the bottom of Button bay, and then continues within sight of the shore as far as Hubbart point, beyond which it strikes northwestward almost at right angles to the magnetic meridian, crossing Kazan river at the southern narrows of Ennadai lake, and Telzoa river about the middle of Boyd lake.”
Black and White Spruce and Larch.
“The forested country is chiefly wooded with small black spruce (Picea nigra) and larch (Larix Americana) while the lowlands are almost everywhere covered with deep mossy swamps. Proceeding northwards, the woods become confined to the lowlands and the tops of the hills remain treeless. Such are the conditions of the surface around Kasba and Daly lakes. Farther northward the wooded plains give place more or less suddenly to level or rolling grassy plains, which constitute the Barren Lands. As the forest disappears, much of the surface is covered by deep frozen mossy bogs or tundras, but these occur only along the edge of the forest, and do not form part of the Barren Lands proper.
“Besides the two species of trees above mentioned, the white spruce (Picea alba) grows to quite a large size on some of the dry estuaries, and on the stony, well-drained banks of Telzoa river. It extends northward almost to Dubawnt lake, forming a larger tree than either of the others. At Churchill, near the shore of Hudson bay, small white spruce were found to have entirely replaced black spruce in the swamps. A few miles farther inland, black spruce again takes its normal place in similar swamps, and white spruce almost disappears.
“Banksian Pine (Pinus Banksiana) grows on the sandy plains along Stone river, and northward, on dry sandy ridges, as far as Selwyn and Theitaga lakes, but it does not extend as far north as either spruce or larch. Canoe Birch (Betula papyrifera) grows to a fairly large size at the head of Thlewiaza river but as a rule it is a small tree in this region. It gradually decreases in size and disappears at the edge of the Barren Lands. Some small aspen trees (Populus tremuloides) were seen as far north as Daly lake on Telzoa river, latitude 60°, on the headwaters of Thlewiaza river, and at the mouth of Churchill river on Hudson bay.
Mr. Tyrrell’s expedition of 1893 did not find much timber along Dubawnt river. Mr. J. W. Tyrrell (“Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada”) mentions that the party found a little clump of white spruce trees on the north shore of Carey lake on the Dubawnt in latitude 62° 15′ north. Two feet above the ground the trunk of the largest tree measured eight feet in circumference.
Mr. Tyrrell also states that the southern affluent of Dubawnt lake “has scattered groves of white spruce on its banks.”
Timber Along the Thelon.
There is considerable timber along the Thelon and the main tributary of its upper reach, the Hanbury, so named from the original explorer of both streams. Mr. Hanbury, describing his exploratory trip, writes:—“The peculiarity of the Ark-i-linik (the Indian name then applied to the Thelon and its tributary the Hanbury) is that, though so far north, it is wooded on either bank, and in places one might even say heavily timbered, spruce trees, with butts measuring one and one-half to two feet across, being by no means uncommon. It is a long way north of the limit of trees marked on the maps, and there is a large extent of country to the south of it destitute of trees. I can find no explanation of this peculiarity from the geological formation, for the same red and white sandstone which prevails nearly the whole length of the river occurs at places which are without trees.
“The woods as a whole amount only to a rather deep fringe, the trees for the most part being scattered and not continuous. Here and there along the banks are spots and short stretches quite bare of timber. After a short walk away from the river on either side one reaches the outer edge of the woodland fringe beyond which the land is typical prairie. Along the creeks and effluents, however, the growth extends to a considerable distance, in places as far as the eye can reach the trees diminishing in size until the spruce is mere scrub.”
Ascending the main branch of the Thelon, Mr. Hanbury describes the timber as beginning about fifty miles above the mouth of the river at Beverly lake. That far northeast he states “spruce of fair-size growth is to be found, and the woods then increase in size of timber and in extent until the river divides, the larger branch coming in from the south, the smaller—which we followed up—joining from the west.”
Of Great Value to Canada.
Mr. J. W. Tyrrell, in the official report of his exploration along Hanbury and Thelon rivers for the Dominion government in 1900, remarks:—“The timber supply of the Thelon should be of great value to Canada.”
Mr. Tyrrell mentions a grove of spruce on the Thelon, two miles below the junction of Hanbury river, and relates that eight miles farther down stream “well grown spruce trees were plentiful on both banks. Here, and for many miles below, the Thelon is a really fine and beautiful river, having grassy banks—well wooded in places by spruce trees—some of which measured some fifteen inches in diameter.
“The wooded or partially wooded banks of the Thelon extend altogether for a distance of about one hundred and seventy miles below the forks of the Hanbury. This distance is not to be understood as a continuous stretch of timber, but over that distance many fine spruce groves, as well as more or less continuous thinly scattered trees are found. The largest trees measured from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, but would average about six inches.”
In his book “Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada” Mr. Tyrrell again refers to the timber along the Hanbury and the Thelon, writing:—“In the valleys of the Thelon and some other rivers there are valuable belts of spruce and tamarack timber for local supply when required.”
In the official report of his long patrol in 1908 Inspector Pelletier writes:—“A good amount of wood for fuel is available on Hanbury river. In places timber is of fair dimension. In one or two ravines near Dickson canyon I would judge the timber to be of sufficient size to erect a comfortable log camp.
A Sixty Mile Stretch of Spruce Timber.
“The banks of the Thelon are very well stocked with timber. Of course there are fairly long stretches on which wood is very scarce, principally at the lower end, but still fuel is found everywhere, either drift or standing. The best stretches of solid timber are from about twenty miles below the Hanbury and extend for sixty miles. The stretch is nearly without interruption. There is another stretch of about ten miles, fifteen miles below Lookout point, and at numerous other points good timber, but in small quantity, is seen. This timber does not extend very far inland. It varies from a few yards deep to two or three miles. In some parts, the timber extends still farther inland. Lumber of fair size from six to ten inches in diameter is abundant. All the timber is spruce.”
Inspector Pelletier speaks of a ten mile stretch on the Thelon, where there “was continuous forest on both banks, and as thick as on any river in the timbered belt.”
Inspector Pelletier also reports:—“On Beverly lake (Thelon river) any amount of driftwood is to be found, on Aberdeen lake very little, and below none at all.”
The Thelon Spruce Groves Phenomenal.
Mr. E. A. Preble, of the United States Biological Survey, in his report has this to say as to the growth of timber along the Thelon:—“The northern extension of the coniferous forest along the banks of northward-flowing rivers has already been referred to. The most remarkable example of this phenomenon is found on the Thelon or Ark-i-linik, a stream tributary to Hudson bay. It was first explored by Hanbury in 1899, and by J. W. Tyrrell during the following season. From a point near latitude sixty-two and one-half degrees, which is as far south as the river has been explored, and which is within the main area of the Barren Grounds, a more or less continuous belt of spruce borders the river as far north as latitude sixty-four and one-half degrees, a distance of over two hundred miles by the river. A few species of woodland-breeding birds follow these extensions of the forest to their limits.”
Eastern Part of Great Slave Lake.
Inspector Pelletier also gives us some information as to the timber resources of the eastern part of Great Slave lake and along the canoe and portage route to Hanbury river. He writes:—“On the south shore of Great Slave lake much good timber was met. On the north shore timber diminishes very perceptibly in size, and the farther one proceeds the more it gets stunted and scattered; only in some favoured spots is timber of any size, but no large area. It consists chiefly of spruce, birch, poplar and jackpine. At the upper end of the first portage from Great Slave lake timber gets very scarce, at French lake a large open spot and at Acres lake we are practically at the beginning of the Barrens, although there is a good lot of wood close to the shore and in sheltered spots. At north end of Burr lake is a nice grove of good sized trees. The country gets rocky and barren, grass growing only in favoured spots.
“At the southern end of Artillery lake, along the small ravines on the east bank, is a fair amount of wood good for fuel and building dog sleighs, but as soon as one crosses Lockhart river where the lake gets wider, wood is seen here and there only in small bluffs. It is small, bent and dwarfed by the wind storms and snow. There is very little substance in the soil, and vegetation must be very slow. Trees grow mostly in the shelter of a bank, whether stone or sand. At about half way up the lake on the east side the last woods are met; on the edges they are low, bent and creepy, as if in readiness to grasp the soil for support to resist the force of the elements. Nothing further grows but some grasses in favoured spots, and at the rapids, where there is a lot of dampness, willows grow between the crevices of upturned boulders. Above Kasba lake on the route followed even willows do not grow. In the eddies at the foot of the rapids on Kasba river I have seen sticks, some of which had been cut with an axe or other tool. Those pieces of wood were small but of a size which leads me to believe that somewhere on Clinton-Colden or farther west on Aylmer lake, timber of some kind is to be found. These sticks or pieces of wood were very old as if they had been tossed up and washed by water for a long period. Moss grows in places and for fuel purposes a few experiments with the different kinds will demonstrate which is the best. We found the black thick sort, which grows on the stones, is very light and dry and burns the best. One makes a tunnel with stones and places the door towards the wind, the more wind and draught the better.”
Scattered Timber East of Great Slave Lake.
In the report of his trip in 1900, Mr. J. W. Tyrrell also gives us some glimpses of the timber about the east end of Great Slave lake and the lakes and river to the east and northeast of that locality. According to Mr. Tyrrell, “Fairchild point (near old Fort Reliance), which is about ten miles in length, is well wooded with white spruce from six to twelve inches in diameter and is notable as being the source of timber in that locality.
“The shores of Carlton harbour are sparingly wooded with small spruce and a few Banksian pines. It might be noted here that on Fairchild point a few black poplars were observed, the last seen on our outward journey.
“At Fort Reliance, here and there, are to be seen the charred remains of large stumps, indicating the apparent recent destruction of the original forest.
“The largest young trees, which showed thirty-four to thirty-five years’ growth, were from four to six inches in diameter two feet from the ground, and were not of stunted appearance.
“At the north end of Burr lake there is situated a nice grove of white spruce timber, containing trees of ten to twelve inches diameter. It proved to be the last timber of any consequence met with before entering the barren lands, excepting some on the west shore of Artillery lake near Timber bay.
“On the western side of Artillery lake, about ten miles from the south end, the shore is quite well timbered with small spruce and they continue northerly, although thinly scattered, for a distance of twenty miles, eight miles farther north than the last grove on the east shore. There the woods cease entirely.”
It is interesting to recall that Back pointed out that “the pines are said to disappear along Artillery lake.”
Mr. Warburton Pike thus describes the same country at the time he passed through it:—
“Scattering timber, spruce and birch, clothed the sloping banks to the sandy shores of the lakes; berries of many kinds grew in profusion; the portages were short and down hill; and caribou were walking the ridges and swimming the lakes in every direction. A perfect northern fairyland it was, and it seemed hard to believe that winter and want could ever penetrate here.”
Timber of the Far North.
The first reference to the timber of the northern part of the Barren Lands we find in the report of Samuel Hearne, who in 1771, speaking of his discovery of Coppermine river, writes:—“Before I proceed farther on my return, it may not be improper to give some account of the river, and the country adjacent; its productions, and the animals which constantly inhabit those dreary regions, as well as those that only migrate thither in summer, in order to breed and rear their young, unmolested by man. That I may do this to better purpose, it will be necessary to go back to the place where I first came to the river, which was about forty miles from its mouth. Near the water’s edge there is some wood, but not one tree grows on or near the top of the hills between which the river runs. There appears to have been formerly much greater quantity than there is at present, but the trees seem to have been set on fire some years ago and, in consequence, there are at present ten sticks lying on the ground for one green one which is growing beside them. The whole timber appears to have been even in its greatest prosperity of so crooked and dwarfed a growth as to render it of little use for any purpose but firewood.
“Besides the stunted pines already mentioned, there are some tufts of dwarf willows; plenty of Wishacumpuckey (as the Indians call it, and which they use as tea); some jackatheypuck, which the natives use as tobacco; and a few cranberry and heathberry bushes; but not the least appearance of any fruit.
“The weeds grow gradually thinner and smaller as you approach the sea, and the last little tuft of pines that I saw is about thirty miles from the mouth of the river, so that we meet with nothing between that spot and the sea-side but barren hills and marshes.”
Sir John Franklin on his first journey, in 1819-22, reached the upper part of Coppermine river at Point lake just east of the southern arm of Great Bear lake. He found the “valleys on its border intersected with clusters of spruce trees. On the borders of such of these lakes as communicate with Coppermine river, there are a few groves of spruce trees, generally growing on accumulations of sand.”
Coppermine Valley.
Sir John refers as follows to the timber growths on the small lakes or expansions of the Coppermine as observed during the descent of his party:—
“Red Rock lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks are well clothed with wood, and even the hills, which attain an elevation of four hundred or five hundred feet, are ornamented half way up with stunted pines.”
“At Rock-Nest lake (just north of Red Rock lake) the only wood is the pine, which is twenty or thirty feet high, and about one foot in diameter.
“At Fairy lake the river flows between banks of sand thinly wooded, and as we advanced the barren hills approached the water’s edge.”
West of that part of Coppermine river which is nearest to Great Bear lake, Sir John Richardson in 1826 said that they met with wooded valleys and saw much wood in the valleys far to the west. From the height of land between Coppermine river and Great Bear lake they had an extensive view of a lower and well wooded country.
Of the country above Bloody falls, on the Coppermine, Sir John Franklin writes:—“In the existence of many scattered stumps of decayed spruce fir trees, and the total absence of young plants, one might be led to infer that of late years the climate has deteriorated and that the country was no longer capable of supporting trees so near the sea coast as it had formerly done. The largest tree in the clump in which we bivouacked had a circumference of thirty-seven inches at the height of four feet from the ground. Its annual layers were very numerous and fine and indicated centuries of growth, but I was unable to reckon them.”
Fine Spruce Northeast of Great Bear Lake.
In 1848, writing of the area between Dease bay (the extreme northeastern arm of Great Bear lake) and Coppermine river, Sir John Franklin states:—“At two we came to another branch of the Kendall, which runs through a ravine of red and spotted sandstone, under whose shelter there grew a remarkably fine grove of white spruces. The best grown tree measured sixty-three inches in circumference and did not taper perceptibly for twenty feet from its root. Its total height was from forty to fifty feet. Other trees of equal girth tapered more, and one decayed trunk, which lay on the ground, looked to be considerably thicker.”
Hanbury mentions that along the north shore of Barry island in Bathurst inlet he “picked up some drift sticks which evidently must have come from Hood river” which flows into Arctic waters some distance east of Coppermine river.
Sir George Back describes the banks of Backs river as being rocky and treeless (“without a single tree on the whole line of its banks”).