GLOSSARY AND INDEX.
A.—Adjective dyes, [24]. Dyes which require a mordant.
[Alder bark], [43], [44], [100], [126].
Alizarin. The chief colouring principle of madder. It is also the name for an extensive series of chemical colours produced from [anthracene], one of the coal tar hydrocarbons, discvrd., 1868.
Alkaline ley, [28].
Alum, [26-29].
Aluminium sulphate, [26].
Aniline, [3]. Discovered, 1826 ([añil], Span. indigo). First prepared from indigo by means of caustic potash. Found in coal in 1834. Manufactured on a large scale after Perkin's discovery of mauve in 1856.
Anatta, (Anotto, Arnotto, [Roucou]), [111]. A dye obtained from the pulp [surrounding] the seeds of the Bixa orellana; chiefly used in dyeing silk an orange colour, but is of a fugitive nature.
[Argol], [132]. The tartar deposited from wines completely fermented, and adhering to the sides of casks as a hard crust. When purified it becomes Cream of Tartar.
Beck.—A large vessel or tub used in dyeing.
Bichromate of Potash, [32].
Birch, [38], [42], [43], [99], [103].
Black, [122-123]; from logwood, [79-85].
Black Dye Plants, [44].
Blue, [63]; from Indigo, [66-75]; from lichen, [61]; from logwood, [79-85].
Blue black, [81].
Blue Dye Plants, [39].
Blue stone, [33].
Blue vitriol, [33-36].
Bois de Campêche, [77].
Bois jaune, Fustic, yellow wood.
Brazil woods, [106].
British Dye Plants, [37-44].
Brown, [122-133]; from lichens, [45-49], [51], [56], [57], [60-62], [140]; from madder, [102], [106]; from weld, [112]; from woad, [76]
Brown Dye Plants, [43].
Buff, [115].
C.—Campeachy Wood, [77].
Carthamus. Safflower, an annual plant cultivated in S. Europe, Egypt and Asia for the red dye from its flowers.
Catechu, [33], [35], [36], [122-6].
Caustic Soda. Carbonate of soda, boiled with lime.
Chestnut, [35].
Cinnamon, [102].
Coal Tar Colours. Colours obtained by distillation and chemical treatment from coal tar, a product of coal during the making of gas. There are over 2,000 colours in use.
Copper, [33-5].
Copper sulphate, [33].
Corcur, [51].
Cotton, [18]; the dyeing of, [19]; without mordant, [21]; method in India, [19], [20]; the mordanting of, [26].
Cream, from catechu, [124].
Cream of Tartar, [28-32], [34]. See [argol].
Crimson, [94-96], [106]; from lichens, [49], [60].
Cudbear, [45], [52], [54], [55], [57], [58], [67], [85], [129].
D.—Detergent, [15]. A cleansing agent.
Dip. Generally applied to immersing cloth etc. in the blue vat.
Divi-divi, [35], [36]. The dried pods of Cæsalpina coriaria, growing in the West Indies and S. America. They contain 20 to 35% tannin and a brown colouring matter.
Dock, [40], [44], [50], [69], [120], [135].
Dyer's Broom, [40], [121], [135].
Dyer's Spirit, [32]. Aqua fortis, 10 parts; Sal Ammoniac, 5 parts; Tin, 2 parts; dissolved together.
E.—Enter. To enter wool, to put it into the dye or mordant liquor.
Extract of Indigo, [65-69].
F.—Felting, to prevent, [15].
Fenugrec, Fenugreek, [107]. Trigonnella fœnugræcum.
Ferrous sulphate, [29].
Flavin. A colouring matter extracted from quercitron.
Fleece, various kinds of, [13].
Flesh colour, [132].
Full, to. To tread or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.
Fuller's Herb. Saponaria officinalis. A plant used in the process of fulling.
Fuller's Thistle or Teasle. Dipsacus fullonum. Used for fulling cloth.
Fustet. Young fustic. Venetian Sumach. Rhus cotinus. It gives a fine orange colour, which has not much permanence.
[Fustic], [113-116], [130], [131], [135].
G.—Galls, Gall nuts, [26], [129]. Oak galls produced by the egg of an insect,—the female gall wasp. An excrescence is produced round the egg, & the insect, when developed, pierces a hole & escapes. Those gall nuts which are not pierced contain most tannic acid. The best come from Aleppo and Turkey.
Gramme or Gram. About 15½ grains (Troy).
Green, [133-9]; with fustic, [137-8]; with weld, [139].
Green Dye Plants, [42].
Green Vitriol, [29].
Green wood, [107], [108], [134].
Greening weed, [121].
Grey, [67], [79]; from logwood, [80], [85].
H.—Hazel colour, [128].
Heather, [40], [85], [121], [135].
Indigo Extract, [64-70]; for green, [135-139].
Iron, [29-30].
K.—Kermes, [87-91].
Kilo. Kilogramme. Equals 2 lbs. 3·2 oz.
Korkalett, [50].
Lavender, [84].
Ley, see [lye].
Linen, [21]; to bleach, [22]; the mordanting of, [26]; various kinds of, [21].
Litre, [80]. Nearly 1¾ pints.
Lixiviation. The process of separating a soluble substance from an insoluble by the percolation of water.
Lixivium. (Lye). A term often used in old dye books. Water impregnated with alkaline salts extracted by lixiviation from wood ashes.
Logwood, [77], [130], [131], [137].
[Lye] or Ley. Any strong alkaline solution, especially one used for the purpose of washing, such as soda lye, soap lye.
M.—Madder, [38], [98-105], [132].
Magenta, [44].
Maize, [132].
Mercerised Cotton. Cotton prepared by treating with a solution of caustic potash or soda or certain other chemicals. Discovered by John Mercer in 1844.
Milling. The operation of fulling cloth.
Mordants, [24]; general remarks on, [34]; primitive mordants, [25].
Muriate of Tin, [31].
Myrobalans, [26], [35], [36]. The fruit of several species of trees, growing in China & the East Indies, containing tannic acid, (25-40% tannin).
O.—Oak bark, [128].
Oil of Vitriol, [64], [65], [67]. Sulphuric acid.
Old Fustic, see [Fustic].
Olive, [109], [113], [118], [135].
Onion skins, [128].
Orange, [91], [93], [102], [106], [109], [120], [132]; from lichens, [48], [51], [58], [60-2].
Organzine. Twisted raw silk from best cocoons, used for warp.
Orseille, [58].
P.—Pastel, [77]. Woad.
Peach, [120].
Peach wood, [106-107].
Pearl ash. Carbonate of Potash.
Peat Soot, [128].
Persian Berries. The dried unripe fruit of various species of Rhamnus. Also called French berries, Grains of Avignon.
Philamort, [48].
Pink, [93]; from lichen, [57].
Plum colour, from lichen, [48].
Potassium Carbonate. (Potashes). Carbonate of Potash has been known since ancient times as a constituent of the ashes of land plants, from which it is obtained by extraction with water. In most cases Sodium Carbonate, which it strongly resembles, can be used in its place.
Potassium dichromate, [32].
Privet, [39], [41], [42], [121].
Purple, from lichens, [53], [57-60], [62]; with cochineal, [95], [96]; with logwood, [82], [85], [86], [87].
Purple Dye Plants, [43].
Q.—Quercitron, [116-120]; for green, [135-137].
R.—Red, [87-107]; from lichens, [48-51], [53], [56], [58], [60].
Red Dye Plants, [38].
Red Spirits. Tin spirits. Applied to tin mordants generally. A solution of Stannous chloride.
Red woods. Camwood, Barwood, Sanderswood (Santal, Sandal, Red Sanders), Brazil wood, Sapan wood, Peach wood.
Retting, [21].
Roucou. Anatta, Arnotto.
S.—Sandalwood or Saunderswood, [106].
Sadden, to, saddening, [14], [30], [34], [127], [130], [132]. To darken or dull in colour.
Sapan wood, [106].
Saxon blue, [67], [70], [136]. The dye made by Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol
Saxon green, [118], [136], [138].
Scarlet, [88], [91], [92], [93], [94], [95], [97], [98].
Scarlet of Grain, [87].
Scotch ell. 37·2 inches.
Scour, to. To wash.
Scroop. The rustling property of silk.
Silk, [16-18]; to alum, [18]; general method of dyeing, [17]; to mordant, [26]; the preparation of, [17]; to soften, [18]; various kinds of, [16]; raw, [16], [17]; waste, [16].
Silver drab, [84].
Sloe, [39].
Soda ash. Carbonate of soda.
Soda ley, [101].
Sour water, [28]. —To every gallon of water, add 1 gill vitriol; stir thoroughly. Stuff steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, otherwise it will rot.
(2). Water in which bran has been made to grow sour. 24 bushels of bran are put in a tub, about 10 hogsheads of nearly boiling water is poured into it; acid fermentation soon begins, and in 24 hours it is ready to use.
(3). Throw some handfuls of bran into hot water and let it stand for 24 hours, or till the water becomes sour, when it is fit for use.
Stannous Chloride, [31].
Staple, [11], [12]. A term applied to cotton and wool, indicating length of fibre.
Stuffing and Saddening, [14], [30].
Substantive Dye, [24], [52], [65], [116]. A dye not requiring a mordant.
Sulphuric Acid, [64], [66], [67], [70], [120], [131].
Sumach, [26], [35], [36], [126]. Leaves and twigs of several species of Rhus, containing Tannic acid. It is sold in the form of crushed leaves or as a powder, (15-20% tannin).
Tin crystals, [31].
Tin salts, [31].
Tram. Slightly twisted raw silk, used for weft.
Turkey Red, [99].
Turmeric, [116].
Turquoise, [69].
Tyrian purple. A purple colour obtained from certain shell fish, such as Buccinum & Purpura. It is mentioned by Pliny as being discovered in 1400 B.C. It was a lost art in the middle ages.
V.—Valonia, [35]. Acorn cups of certain species of oak from S. Europe, containing 25-35% of tannic acid.
Vegetable alkali. Potash.
Verdigris, [33]. Acetate of copper.
Vitrum, [76].
W.—Walnut, [43], [127], [132].
Water for dyeing, [23].
Weld, [107-112], [120], [130], [134], [135].
Wet out, to. To damp, before putting the yarn or cloth into the dye.
Wool, [11]; to bleach, [16]; to cleanse, [15], [16]; long staple wool, [12]; various kinds of, [11], [12], [13].
Wool Dyeing, general methods, [13-16].
Y.—Yarn, to soften, [16].
Yellow, [107-122]; from lichens, [51], [57], [140]; from sumach, [126].
Yellow Dye Plants, [39].
Yellow Weed, [134].
Yellow Wood, [107].
[ERRATA]
[page 59]. Rock Urcolaria shld. be Rock Urceolaria.
[page 61]. Flowering lusnea shld. be Flowering Usnea.
page 144. (printed without being corrected).
Add:—[Alder bark], 43, 44, 100, 126.
[Almond], 120.
[Amber], 132.
[Argol], 131.
[Ash], 41, 120.
[Barwood], 67, 106.
Correct:—
authracene to [anthracene]
anie to [añil]
Roucon to [Roucou]
sorrounding to [surrounding]
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