SECTION XXX.

Of the Principal Baths.

The bath is a legal establishment of the Islám, founded on the text of the Korán: “If you are polluted, purify yourselves.” The two baths which existed in Constantinople before the conquest were those of the Azabs and the Takhtáb. The first bath built after the conquest was that at the mosque of Sultán Mohammed II., for the use of the workmen employed in the building of the mosque. Afterwards the bath of the Azabs was converted to the use of the Moslems. The baths next built were those of Vafá, Eyúb, and Chokúr. All these baths are still kept up and repaired by the endowment (wakf) of Sultán Mohammed. I have preferred assigning each of the principal baths to a certain class of men in the following amusing way: For the sick, the bath of Ayúb Sultán; for the Sheikhs, that of Ayá Sófiyah; for the Súfís, that called by the same name; for strangers, that called the bath of strangers (gharíb); for the Bostánjís, the garden-bath (bóstán); for the market-people, that called the Friday-market (Juma’ bázár); for debauchees, the Chokúr (the pit); for painters, the Chínlí (Chinese); for the women, the khátún (lady); for sportsmen, the Kojeh Mohammed Páshá; for the Janissaries, the bath of the new barracks (yení oda); for the workmen, that so called (irghát); for the surgeons, the Jerráh (surgeon) Alí Páshá; for the men of the Seráï, that of the Ak-seráï; for the black Arabs, that called the mice (Sichánlí); for the saints, that of Sultán Báyazíd II., the saint; for the insane, the variegated bath (Alájeh); for cruel tyrants, that of Zinjírlí-kapú (chained-gate); for the oppressed, that of Sultán Selím the Just; for the porters, the Sort-hammám; for poets, that of Sultán Suleïmán; for Dervíshes, that of Haider Páshá; for the children of the Arabs, the Takht-ul-kala’; for the favourites, that of the Khásekí; for astronomers, the Yeldiz-hammám (star bath); for merchants, that of Mahmúd Páshá; for mothers, that of the Válideh; for horsemen (jinjí), that in the Hippodrome; for Muftís, that of the Muftí; for the Zaims, that of Gedek Páshá; for the armourers, that of Dávud Páshá; for Khoajas, that of the same name; for Sultáns, the bath so called; for Mollás, the bath of Mollá Korání; for the Greeks, the Fener bath (in their quarter); for singers, the Balát (Palatium) bath; for villains, the Khanjarlí (armed with a dagger); for musicians, the Lúnja (or parade); for sailors, the bath of the port of galleys (kádirga límán); for the imáms, or chiefs of the baths, that of Little Ayá Sófiyah; for the members of the Díván, the bath of Bairám Páshá; for the eunuchs (khádim), that of the eunuch Mohammed Aghá; for the vezírs, that of Alí Páshá; for the generous, that of Lutfí Páshá; for the gardeners, that of Yení-bághcheh (new garden); for the Albanians, that of the Adrianople-gate; for the Mevlevís, that of the Yení-kapú (new-gate); for the stone-masons, that of the Silivrí-gate; for the magicians, that of the Seven Towers; for beggars, that of Chár-ták; for clerks, that of Nishánjí Páshá; for the Drogománs, the bath so called; for invalids, that of Lanka; for miners, that of Sárígurz; for doctors, the Majúnjí-hammam (medicine-makers); for the Kádíaskers, the bath of the same name; for the Persians, the bath of the Ajem-oghláns; for the sellers of weights and scales, that of the Veznejilár (weighers); for the Shátirs (foot-guards), that of Pertev Páshá; for gamblers, the painted bath (Tesvírlí-hammám); for the Sháfeís, that of the mint (Dharab-kháneh); for lovers, that of the cage (kafeslí); for the Aghás, that of the Little Aghá; for the barley-merchants, that of the Arpa-amíní (the inspector of barley); for the Seids (descendants of the Prophet), that of Abbás Aghá; for women, that of the women-market (Evret-bázár); for the Jews, that of the Jehúd-kapú (Jews-gate); for grooms, that of the Akhor-kapú (stable-gate); for the infirm (Maatúh), that of Koja Mohammed Páshá; for buffoons, that of Shengel; for Kapudáns, the Deníz-hammám (sea-bath); for the Ehl-touhíd (unitarians), the bath of Koja Mustafá Páshá; for dwarfs, that of the Little Aghá; for the elegant, that of the Chelebí (petit maître).

In the same manner we allotted the baths in the suburbs, which, with those within, amount to one hundred and fifty-one, all of which I have visited. Seventeen more were built during my travels, but these I have not seen. The most elegant and commodious is the Chokúr-hammám, built by Mohammed II. It is paved with granite, and can accommodate five thousand men. Next in rank may be noticed the baths of Mahmúd Páshá, of Takht-ul-kala’, of Báyazíd, and of Koja Páshá; the best lighted up are those of Haider Páshá, the Suleïmáníeh, and the Válideh; the cleanest, those of Ayá Sófiyah, of the Súfis, of Abbás Aghá, and of Mohammed Páshá, in the Chehár Shemba-bázár.

When I was received into the haram of Sultán Murád IV., on the night that I read the Korán, I had the good fortune to see the imperial bath, with which no other in the world can be compared. The four sides of it are assigned to the use of the pages, and in the centre there is an inclosed bath for the emperor. Water rushes in on all sides from fountains and basins, through pipes of gold and silver; and the basins which receive the water are inlaid with the same metals. Into some of these basins, hot and cold water run from the same pipe. The pavement is a beautiful mosaic of variegated stones which dazzle the eye. The walls are scented with roses, musk, and amber; and aloes is kept constantly burning in censors. The light is increased by the splendour and brilliancy of the windows. The walls are dry, the air temperate, and all the basins of fine white marble. The dressing rooms are furnished with seats of gold and silver. The great cupola of the first dressing-room, all of bright marble, may be equalled by that at Cairo only. As this bath stands upon a rising ground it towers to the heavens: its windows all look towards the sea, to Scutari, and Kází-koi. On the right of the door of the dressing-room is the room for the musicians (motrib-khán) and on the left, the cupola of the inner treasury (khazáneh khás). I have no where seen so splendid a bath, except that of Abdál, the Khán of Tiflís, in the province of Ván.

Most of the above baths are adorned with chronographs; and they are all double (chifteh), that is, consist of two rooms, except that of Mohammed Páshá, in the Little-market. In the afternoon women are admitted. If to the great public baths we add the smaller ones, the number would exceed three hundred; and if the private ones are reckoned, they will amount to the number of four thousand five hundred and thirty-six.


End of Part I.