| CHAPTER I. |
| PAGE |
| The Winter Voyage recommended—A Cabin to oneself may thenbe had at no additional cost—Advantages of Travelling in Americain Winter—A Feeling in a Gale—The Americans on boardthe Steamer—Divine Service on Board | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| New York—Menu at Fifth Avenue Hotel—How Travel in theStates may be arranged for a Winter Tour—The Queen’s Bookin America—External Appearance of New York—Ignorance ofEnglish Immigrants—Industrial Schools—Children’s Aid Society—Numberof Churches—Broad Views general—A Serviceat the Rev. H. W. Beecher’s Church—Episcopalian Broad ChurchClub—Chapels in poor Districts annexed to Episcopal Churchesin rich ones—American Churches worked at High Pressure—AnAmerican Divine’s Opinion of a Minister’s Duty | [8] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| Why an unreasonable Fancy was acted on—The History of theCause of American Progressiveness—What passes in Americaimportant to us—The Northern States sown broadcast withHouses | [24] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| The Locomotive in the Streets—In Baltimore Public Opinion firstbecomes Southern—Growth and Prospects of Baltimore—OnTrading Politicians and Ill-will to England—Why an AmericanTutor thought necessary for an Englishman—Repudiation—TheMasses and Middle Class in favour of it—Arguments in favourof it—An Argument used 2,000 Miles from Wall Street—WhyRepublicans bound to repudiate—Americans addicted to AbstractReasoning—Instances | [32] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Washington—Style of Speaking in Congress—Congress no Nurseryfor Statesmen—Society in Washington—Episcopal Church inWashington—Some Opinions of an American Bishop—Commissionerof Agriculture—Use of the Department—Its Museumgives an Idea of the Vastness of the Country—Its Natural Advantages—WhatVariety of Productions has done for Englandwill be repeated in America—Special Excellence of CalifornianProductions—The Californian himself—California comparedwith Italy—Why Coloured Waiters preferable to White—NegroFuneral with Masonic Honours—American Birds’ Nests—Billfor making Education compulsory—Coloured Schools—ComparativeIntelligence of the Negro—Vulgar Errors about Americans—NightAttendants at Hotel read ‘Oliver Twist’—Capitol—Treasury—PatentOffice—What our Diplomacy in Americashould be—Use of Iced Water | [44] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| Richmond—Way by the Battle-fields—Handiness of AmericanSoldiers—Effect of Slavery on the Virginian Landscape—Appearanceof American Forest—Republican Relations of Fatherand Son—State of Feeling in Virginia—Billiards in America—WhyRichmond Millers undersold by Californian—Why AmericanCities are Large—American Living—Prospects of Richmond—Indicationsof Southern Climate in Richmond—Church-mattersin Richmond—Interest that attaches to Richmond, and to theHeroism of the South | [67] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| How Southerners describe their own Condition—Each State mustbe taken separately—Missouri—Tennessee—Kentucky—Texas—Virginia—Georgia—Florida—NorthCarolina—Arkansas—SouthCarolina—Louisiana—Mississippi—Will the Blacks getthe Franchise?—No party considers them fit—They will haveit for a time—This will weaken the repudiating party—Alsothe party hostile to this country—The Blacks will not all berepublican—The South should have been left alone to settle theLabour Question—The Bureau suggested false ideas—There willbe no war of races—What will kill out the Blacks—The rate ofthis—Fusion physically impossible—Means of Communicationin the South indicate its condition | [91] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| First Sight of a Cotton-field—Spanish Moss—A Night on theRails—Many kinds of sameness in America—Maize—Order ofSuccession in the Forest—Its extent—Evergreens in the SouthernForest—Poor land in the South may be more profitable thanrich land in the West—Deadness of Charleston—Its Hotels—ACharleston Sam Weller—The Naples of the United States—FewEnglish Travellers—Sufferings of Southern Families—Wantof schools—How the deficiency is being supplied—Blacks shouldbe put on same footing as Whites—Dialogue with Black Memberof Convention—Another Convention—Able Black Member—SouthCarolina Orphan Asylum | [109] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| Cold in South Carolina and Georgia—Curious appearance of Ice—Timenot valued in the South—Why Americans will not cultivatethe Olive—Tea might grow in Georgia—Atlanta bound tobe great—Cattle badly off in winter—A Virginian’s Recollectionof the War—His Position and Prospects—Approach to Mobileby the Alabama River—Mobile—The Harbour—Why no AmericanShips there—A Day on the Gulf—Ponchatrain—NewOrleans—French Sunday Market—French appearance of Town—ANew Orleans Gentleman on the Episcopal Church—BishopElect of Georgia—Mississippi—The Cemeteries—Expensivenessof everything—Transatlantic News—Fusion of North and South—FrenchHalf-breeds—Roads—The best in the World—Approachto New Orleans by land—Sugar Plantations—APrayer for a Brother Minister | [126] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| My only Delay on an American Railway—No concealing one’sNationality—Railway Cow-plough—Pistols—Memphis—Emigrationfrom the South deprecated—True Method of Resuscitation—TheMinister’s Study—Conversation with two Ministers—Invitationto ‘go to Church’ 150 Miles off—Luxury does notsap the Military Spirit—Mrs. Read—Entry into Eden—Share aBed-room with a Californian—How California was civilised—Howa Site upon the Swamp was created for Cairo—Decline thefourth part of a Bed-room at Odin—‘Be good to yourself’ | [146] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Mississippi frozen over at St. Louis—Why the Bridge at St. Louisis built by Chicago Men—General Sherman—Ideas about Educationat St. Louis—Liberal Bequests for Educational Purposes—HowNew Englandism leavens the whole Lump—The GermanInvasion will not Germanise America—St. Louis—Its rapidGrowth—Its Church Architecture—An Idea on Mental Culturefrom the West Bank of the Mississippi—A Thought suggestedby hearing the Skaters on the Mississippi talking English | [164] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| Instance of American Kindliness—Red-skins and Half-breeds onthe Rails—Cincinnati and its Inhabitants—What may bemade of Pigs—The influence of its Pork-crop—Machineryfor Killing and Curing—Improving effect American Equalityhas on the highest and lowest Class—Churches only unprosaicBuildings in American Towns—Schools—Merits of Philadelphianstyle of City-building not obvious—In what it consists—Americahas but one City—No. 24, G Street, corner of 25th Street | [172] |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| The Valley of the Ohio—Much of the United States will produceWine—Illinois at Night—First View of Lake Michigan—Chicago—ASign of outward Religion—‘Small-pox here’—FireAlarm—Liberality of Chicago Merchants—The Dollar not all-in-all—AChurch lighted from the Roof—A handsome American—Americahas developed a new type of Features—Chicago Schools—Anexception to the American way of denouncing the officialClass—Chicago Sunday Schools—Programme of one I attended—Excellenceof Water at Chicago—How supplied—Lifting upthe City—Post Office Arrangements—A disadvantage of frequentchange of Clerks—Americans on Aristocracy—How the Germans,the masses of the people, and the upper class feel towards it | [182] |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| Prairie from Chicago to Omaha—Plains from North Platte to theMountains—Omaha, the intersection of the Pacific Railwayand the Missouri—Temporary Bridge over the Missouri—Indifferenceto Risks affecting Life—A Prairie Fire—The Forest onthe Mountains on Fire—Fire the cause of the Treelessness of thePrairies—First found Animal Life abounding in the Valley of thePlatte—‘The hardest place, Sir, on this Continent’—Its Predecessor—Howit is possible to establish Lynch Law at Shyenne—Myfirst Night in Shyenne—A second Night in Shyenne—Necessityand advantages of Lynch Law—‘The use of the Pistol’—AMan shot because ‘he might have done some mischief’—Newnessof Aspects both of Society and of Nature | [202] |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| The Armament and Experience of a German Herdmaster—A StageCoach on the Plains—The Party in the Coach—The onlyColonel I met in the United States—The Colonel’s Wife—AColorado Herdmaster—A Philadelphian Graduate—Two jocoseDenver Storekeepers—Advantage of having one’s Rifle in theCoach—A Californian’s account of a Skirmish with Indians—Mannersand Life at a house on the Plains—A Lady of thePlains—American Society judges Men fairly—Between Shyenneand Denver | [221] |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| The City of Denver—The Ladies give a Ball—Manners of Denver—‘Quiteour finest Gentleman’—The Plains will be to Americaan improved Australia—The advantages they offer for Flocksand Herds—Will soon be clear of Indians—Markets now openedto them—Size of the Runs—Wealth of the Region | [233] |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| The Rocky Mountains—Golden City—Golden Gates—MiningTowns—Neighbouring Mountains stripped of every Tree—Whatgrows on the Mountains—American Horses—Roads and Bridgesthey have to pass—How, six-in-hand, we went down a Hillsidein the Mountains—A nice Distinction as to Accidents on thisHill—Climate—Wind-storms—Birds—Dogs | [241] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| Rocky Mountains a Field for Sporting—Great variety and abundanceof Game—Wild Fruit—Excellence of Climate in theshooting season—How the Mountains may be reached, and howmuch seen by the way, in 15 days from Liverpool—Cost of theExpedition—The best Camping Ground is the South Park atfoot of Pike’s Peak—The Route by Chicago and Denver recommended—OtherRoute by St. Louis and Leavenworth—Routeinto the Park—The North Park easier work—The more enterprisingmay go to Laramie Plains—Will deteriorate every year | [249] |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| Hotel Cars, real First-class Carriages—An Editor on his Countrymen’sKnowledge—American Grandiloquence—Of whom thisis said—Necessary to repeat some of what one hears—‘Haveyou seen our Forest?’—‘The Pacific Rails will carry the commerceof the world’—Large Acquaintance Americans have—AnAmerican on Letters of Introduction—Niagara—The Americanand Canadian Falls—What is in the mind magnifies what onesees—The Stone Trough it has chipped out—Ice Bridge—HowNiagara is pronounced—A Week of Canadian Weather—ASnow-bound Party at Niagara | [258] |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| Educational Department at Toronto—Canadian Arguments againstCommon Schools—A Canadian’s Opinion on Secular Schools inEngland—How the Canadians’ Objections are met in the UnitedStates—Upper Canadians not yet a People—Advantages possessedby Upper Canada—Service at the Romanist and AnglicanCathedrals—Unmannerly Behaviour permitted on CanadianRailways—Badness of their Carriages—Why Canada is not ‘theLand of Freedom’—Yankee Smartness in Train-driving—Picturesquenessof Vermont—Travelling on American Railwaysnot fatiguing | [269] |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| Boston is the Hub of America—Mr. Ticknor—Professor Rogersand the Technological—Mr. Norton—Professor Agassiz—Mr.Appleton and Mr. Longfellow—Mr. Philbrick—A GrammarSchool Commemoration—Humility of the better Literary Men ofBoston—Regret at leaving Boston | [279] |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| American Hotels—Why some People in America travel withoutany Luggage—Conversation at Tables-d’hôte should be encouraged—TheIrish, the African, and the Chinese—Can a Republicdo without a Servile Class?—What will be the ultimate Fate ofthese three races in America—No Children—Motives—Means—Consequences—Whymany young Men and young Women makeShipwreck of Happiness in America—The course many Familiesrun—America the Hub of the World | [286] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| On American Common Schools—Conclusion | [299] |
