Repton and its neighbourhood

by F. C. Hipkins

BARROW, SWARKESTON, AND STANTON-BY-BRIDGE.

One of our pleasantest walks from Repton is to Barrow, down Brook End, up Monsel Lane, past the (Canons’) Meadow Farm, and, by a field path to the left, to the river Trent, over which there is a ferry, to Twyford village. After passing through Twyford, turn to the right along the road, or by a field path, and the picturesque old village of Barrow will soon be reached. Barrow, most probably, derived its name from a barrow within the parish, which parish includes the villages of Arleston, Sinfin, Stenson and Twyford. Of these villages little can be written, Arleston has some ancient buildings and ruins which belonged to the preceptory of the Knights Templars or Hospitallers. Sinfin is noted only for its moor, on which the Derby races were formerly run. In the year 1804, it was enclosed by Act of Parliament, and divided among the adjoining townships.

Stenson and Twyford were manors belonging to the Ferrars at the time of the Domesday Survey, later on they passed to the Curzons, Findernes, and Harpurs.

The church at Twyford, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a chapelry of, and held by, the Vicars of Barrow. A Norman arch divides the nave from the chancel, the rest of the church is of the Decorated period. It has a tower terminated by an octagonal spire. There are three bells, and a few mural monuments to the Harpur, Vernon, and Bristowe families.

Barrow-on-Trent, as it is usually called, dates back to Norman days, when it had a priest and a church. One portion of the manor formed part of the endowment of the bishopric of Carlisle, the other, and proper manor, including the church, belonged to the ancient family of Bakepuz, one of whom, Robert de Bakepuz, gave the church to the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights Templars, or Hospitallers, who had a preceptory, as we have seen, at Arleston in the parish of Barrow. For a full and interesting account of the connection between Barrow and the Knights, see “Cox’s Churches of Derbyshire,” Vol. IV., pp. 11-19.

When the Order was dissolved in the reign of Henry VIII., the manor and advowson of the vicarage were granted to the family of Beaumont, and remained with them till 1638, since that time the advowson has very frequently changed hands, by sale, or otherwise. In 1638 Daniel Shelmerdine (an O.R.) was chosen and elected by the parishioners, and held the living till he was ejected in 1662. The church, dedicated to St. Wilfred, consists of nave, chancel, north and south aisles, south porch, and tower at the west end. There are now no remains of the Norman church. During the reign of Henry III. (1216-1272), the church was probably rebuilt, and again, in the Decorated and Perpendicular periods, alterations and additions were made. There are monuments in memory of the Bothes, Beaumonts, and Sales.

SWARKESTON.

At the time of the Domesday Survey, Swarkeston (Suerchestune or Sorchestun) was divided between the King and Henry de Ferrers. In the reign of Edward I. it belonged to John de Beke, or Beck, and Robert de Holland. Joan, wife of John de Beck, left it to her son and heir. In the fourteenth century the manor and advowson was purchased by the Rollestons, of Rolleston, in Staffordshire, with whom they remained till about the middle of the sixteenth century when the manor passed into the family of the Finderns. Jane Findern, daughter and heiress of George Findern, conveyed it, by marriage, to Richard Harpur, who built a mansion at Swarkeston. This mansion was fortified, and the bridge defended by earth-works, for the King, by Colonel Hastings in 1642. In January, 1643, Sir John Gell marched against it with Sir George Gresley’s troops, the house was abandoned on their approach, but the defenders of the bridge only yielded after a stubborn defence.

Swarkeston Bridge is the most famous one in Derbyshire, and from end to end measures 1304 yards. The modern part of the bridge, over the river Trent, is about 138 yards, the remainder forms a raised causeway, about eleven or twelve feet wide, with arches, here and there, so that the flood water can escape. The greater part of the bridge is in the parish of Stanton-by-Bridge. There is a legend that the old bridge was erected at the sole cost of two maiden sisters, who lost their lovers when attempting to ford the swollen waters, to pay a visit to their betrothed ones. It is also said that the ladies spent the whole of their fortunes on the bridge, and lived a life of penury ever afterwards.

The earliest mention of the bridge, discovered by the Rev. Charles Kerry, editor of the Derbyshire Archæological Journal, is in the Hundred Rolls, and is as follows: “Inquisition held at Derby on the Feast of S. Hilary, in the Church of S. James, anno 3 Edward I. (Oct. 1, A.D. 1275). The jury reported that the merchants of Melbourne passing over the bridge had for three years withheld passage money and tolls, unjustly and without warrant, to the prejudice of our lord the King and the borough of Derby.”

“The Patent Rolls give three pontages for Swarkeston; viz.:—2nd Pat., 18 Ed. II., m. 31.; 1st Pat., 12 Ed. III., m. 26. This latter was granted to the men of Swarkeston for four years; the collectors of the bridge tolls being Hugo de Calke, and John the son of Adam. Given at Westminster, March 1st, 1338. The 3rd will be found in 3rd Pat., 20 Ed. III., which refers to the ruinous state of the bridge, and appoints John the son of Adam de Melbourne, senior, and John the son of Adam de Melbourne, junior, to receive tolls for the reparation of the bridge for three years. Given at Reading the 28th of December, 1347.” A long list of things to pay toll, and the amount varying from ¼d. to 6d. is given.

Another inquisition held at Newark, Oct. 26th, 1503, refers to the chapel on Swarkeston bridge, and a parcel of meadow land, lying between the bridge and Ingleby, granted to the Priory of Repton for a priest to sing mass in the Chapel, which had not been done for 20 years.

In 1745 “bonnie Prince Charlie,” the Young Pretender, marched from Derby, with his advanced guard, as far as Swarkeston Bridge, but on the 6th of December was compelled, most reluctantly, to commence a retreat to Scotland, which ended in the fatal battle of Culloden Moor.

The village, now chiefly known as a fishing resort, with its church, and posting house, is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Trent. The ancient church was “restored” in 1876, that is to say, it was rebuilt, with the exception of the tower and Harpur chapel. Beneath an arch, to the north of the altar, is a raised tomb on which is fixed a large alabaster slab, on this is carved the effigies of a man and woman, the front of the tomb is divided into four compartments, in the two middle ones are figures of seven sons and seven daughters. Round the margin of the slab is the following inscription:—

“John Rolston Esquire sūtyme lord of Swarkston dysscysyd the iii. day of De̅c̅ber ye yere of our lord MCCCCLxxxij, and Susane hys wyffe dysscysyd the 23ᵈ of De̅c̅ber the yere of our lord MCCCCLX and IV on whose sowlys God have mcy.”

On the south side of the chancel is the Harpur mortuary chapel. In it are two large raised tombs, each supporting a pair of recumbent effigies. One tomb is that of “Richard Harpur one of the justyces of the Comen Benche at Westminster and Jane the wife, sister and heyre of and unto Thomas Fynderne of Fynderne Esquyer. Cogita mori.”

The other tomb bears beautifully-carved effigies of Sir John Harpur and his first wife. Over the tomb, on a tablet, is this inscription:—“In piam posteritatis memoriam et spem certam futuræ resurrectionis monumentum hoc struxit Johannes Harpur Miles Filius Richardi Harpur armigeri justiciarii de Banco Regio. Cui uxorem ducenti Isabellam filiam Georgii Pierpont militis, Deus amplam et fœlicem dedit filios filiasque duodecium quorum nomina scutis infra præponuntur, Mortem obiit septᵒ die Octobris Anno Domini 1627.” In front of the tomb, kneeling at a double prayer desk, are the figures of seven sons, and five daughters.

STANTON-BY-BRIDGE.

Pleasantly situated on the high ground overlooking the valley of the Trent is the village of Stanton-by-Bridge (Swarkeston). The De Stantons were lords of the manor for many generations. In the reign of Edward III., John Frances of Tickenhall married Margaret, daughter and heiress of John de Stanton, so the manor passed to the Frances family, and remained with them till an heiress of that house married Sir Thomas Burdett, Bart., of Bramcote, Warwickshire. About this time the manor was divided between the Burdetts and Harpurs, each, in turn, appointing to the living. Now it is in the sole patronage of the Harpur-Crewe family.

The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a small one, about 60 feet long, and consists of nave, chancel, north aisle, south porch with a bell turret on the west gable. The chancel arch, a plain semi-circular one, is considered to be Saxon, and the south doorway, ornamented with chevron, or zizag, and billet mouldings, is of the Norman period, not later than Stephen’s reign. There are several remains of incised sepulchral slabs, and also slabs of alabaster bearing incised effigies of the Sacheverell and Francis families. During a restoration in 1865, some of the older slabs were discovered, and were placed as they are now.

About a mile south of Stanton is a farmhouse called St. Bride’s, supposed to be once a grange chapel of Burton Abbey. Built into its walls are many remains of Norman work, and in the yard are stone coffins, and other fragments of worked stone.