THE JĀMMA MASJID,
Or great mosque, was built by Jahānārā, the favourite daughter of Shāhjahān and Arzamund Banoo. The princess Jahānārā (the Ornament of the World) was an unmarried lady, and devoted to religion. She is described as fourteen years of age when her father mounted the throne; sensible, lively, generous, elegant in person, and accomplished in mind. Her influence over her father was unbounded.
The Masjid is a fine mass of building of red carved granite; the court and fountains handsome. The three domes, with their peculiar adornments, are beautifully formed; they are inlaid with red granite and white marble. This immense masjid is very handsome: over the doors are Arabic characters in black and white marble, and the outside is ornamented with the same. Within it is ornamented with chūnā and white marble. The workmanship cost five lākh, and the time it took in building was five years. The stones and marbles were sent from different Dependents as presents to the princess. The masjid was much shaken forty years ago by an earthquake, which also did injury to the Tāj.
The Jāts from the Deccan, who were in Agra about ten years, despoiled this masjid: they were expelled by the Vukeel of the Delhi Padshah. There are three domes on the roof, and four burj at the corners. In the court of this mosque the sixtieth regiment of Native Infantry saw some fighting some thirty-three years since, and the old place certainly shows marks of hot work; however, they succeeded in taking it. From the top of this masjid you have a good view of the city of Agra, with Akbar’s tomb at Secundra in the distance. This princess also made the garden called “Bagh Zaarrai” on the opposite bank of the Jumna.
About one mile east of the city (of Delhi) is the tomb of the celebrated Jahānārā Begam, eldest daughter of the emperor Shāhjahān, no less famous for her wit, gallantry, and beauty, than for her filial attachment in undergoing a voluntary confinement of ten years with her father in the castle of Agra. The tomb is of fine white marble, with a hollow space at the top, which was formerly filled with earth and flowers. At the head of the grave is a tablet of white marble, with an inscription in black characters; the slab is decorated at its corners with cornelians of different colours.
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بحجز کياه و سبزي نپوشد مزار ما
که قبرپوش غريبان همه کياه و بس
الفقره العاجلت جهان ارا بيکم بنت شاه جهان مريد
In English thus:
“Let no one scatter over my grave aught besides earth and verdure, for such is best befitting the sepulchre of one of an humble mind.”
On the margin,
“The perishable fakīr, Jehanarai Begam, daughter to Shāhjahān, and disciple of the saints of Cheesty, in the year of the Hijerah 1094[127].”
From the Delhi Gate of the Fort of Agra, which is grand and solid, but sadly disfigured by fanciful patterns in whitewash, you come to the Tripolia, so called from its three gates, I imagine, but it may be three any thing else. A low arcade of stone runs all round the area, and forms the Fort Bazār. It is built of red granite.
The Mahookma Masjid beyond the wall is remarkable for its five domes; it was built by Jahāngeer, and is now used as a Company’s Godown (magazine of stores).
The Madrissa, a Muhammadan College, erected two years ago by the Government, is a handsome building.