The automobile owner's guide

by Frank B. Scholl

ILLUSTRATIONS

FIGURE		PAGE
[1].	Typical Four-Cylinder Block	13
[2].	Cylinder Block with Head Removed	13
[3].	Removable Cylinder Head (Reversed)	14
[4].	Typical Cylinder Piston	15
[5].	Typical Piston Ring	15
[6].	Typical Connecting Rod	16
[7].	Counter-Balanced Crank Shaft	17
[8].	5-M-B Crank Shaft	17
[9].	Cam Shaft	18
[10].	Flywheel	19
[11].	8-Cylinder Valve Arrangement	22
[12].	Poppet Valve	23
[13].	Valve Types, Location and Operation	24
[14].	Valve Timing Marks	25
[15].	Knight Valve-Timing Marks—4-Cylinder	27
[16].	Knight Valve-Timing Marks—8-Cylinder	28
[17].	4-Stroke Cycle	29
[18].	Diagram of Action, 4-Cylinder 4-Cycle Engine	31
[19].	Power Stroke Diagram	32
[20].	Buick Engine—Parts Assembly	36
[21].	Buick Engine—Location Inside Parts Assembly	37
[22].	Buick Motor—End View	38
[23].	Liberty U. S. A. Engine	39
[24].	Splash Oiling	41
[25].	Plunger Pump Oiling System	42
[26].	Stromberg Model M Carburetor—Sectional View	46
[27].	Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Air Bleeder Action	47
[28].	Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Accelerating Well	49
[29].	Stromberg Carburetor Model M—Idling Operation	51
[30].	Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle 1⁄5 Open	52
[31].	Stromberg Carburetor—Throttle Wide Open	53
[32].	Stromberg Model M—Adjustment Points	55
[33].	Stromberg Model “L”—Adjustment Points	58
[34].	Sunderman Carburetor	60
[35].	Sunderman Carburetor	61
[36].	Sunderman Carburetor	62
[37].	Sunderman Carburetor	63
[38].	Schebler Model R Carburetor Assembled	64
[39].	Stewart Carburetor	66
[40].	Carter Carburetor	70
[41].	Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Sectional View	72
[42].	Schebler Carburetor Model Ford A—Adjustment Points	73
[43].	Holley Kerosene Carburetor	76
[44].	Holley Kerosene Carburetor Installment	77
[45].	Hot Spot Manifold	79
[46].	Holley Vapor Manifold—Ford Cars	80
[47].	Thermo-Syphon Cooling System	82
[48].	Muffler—Three Compartment	86
[49].	Muffler	87
[50].	Vacuum System—Top Arrangement	89
[51].	Vacuum System Installation	90
[52].	Vacuum System Diagram—Stewart Warner	91
[53].	Vacuum System—Inside View of Parts	94
[54].	Coil Diagram	96
[55].	Dynamo—Diagram of Action	98
[56].	Magnets—Pole Blocks	101
[57].	Armature Core—Wound Armature	102
[58].	Primary and Secondary Winding and Current Direction	102
[59].	Breaker—Slip Ring—Distributor	103
[60].	Bosch M Distributor and Interruptor—Housing Removed	106
[61].	Wiring Diagram Bosch Magneto, Type ZR-4	107
[62].	Wiring Diagram, North-East System—on Dodge Car	115
[63].	North-East Distributor—Model O—Ignition	116
[64].	North East Breaker-Box	118
[65].	Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—North East	121
[66].	Atwater Kent Circuit Diagram—Type C. C.	127
[67].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Type C. C.	128
[68].	Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block	128
[69].	Distributor Wire Connections to Distributor	129
[70].	Atwater Kent Type C. C. Wiring Diagram	130
[71].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System	133
[72].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System	133
[73].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System	134
[74].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Diagram of Action—Type K-2 System	134
[75].	Atwater Kent Distributor and Contactless Block	135
[76].	Atwater Kent Wiring Diagram Type K-2	136
[77].	Atwater Kent K-2 Wiring	137
[78].	Atwater Kent Automatic Spark Advance Mechanism—A-K Type K-2	138
[79].	Atwater Kent Contact Breaker—Oiling Diagram—A-K Type K-2	139
[80].	Philbrin Contact Maker—Point Adjustment	141
[81].	Philbrin Contact Maker and Distributor Blade	142
[82].	Switch Case	143
[83].	Duplex High Frequency Switch	144
[84].	Philbrin Wiring Diagram	145
[85].	Bijur 2-V System Mounted on Hupmobile Engine	149
[86].	Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action	151
[87].	Bijur Starter Mechanism Showing Action	152
[88].	Wiring Diagram Model N—Hupmobile	153
[89].	Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey-Chesterfield Six	155
[90].	Wiring Diagram—Jeffrey Four	158
[91].	Hydrometer Syringe	159
[911⁄2].	Dodge Wiring Diagram	162
[92].	North East Model G Starter Generator	164
[93].	Delco Motor Generator—Showing Parts	168
[94].	Delco Motor Generator—Diagram of Operation	170
[95].	Delco Ignition Switch Plate	173
[96].	Delco Ignition Switch Circuit Breaker—Mounted	173
[97].	Delco Ignition Coil	175
[98].	Delco Wiring Diagram—Buick Cars	176
[99].	Delco Ignition Distributor	177
[100].	Delco Ignition Contact Breaker and Timer	178
[101].	Storage Battery, Sectional View	180
[102].	Storage Battery, Sectional View	182
[103].	Hydrometer Syringe	183
[104].	Spark Plug	187
[105].	Cone Clutch and Brake	190
[106].	Multi-Disc Unit Power Plant, Clutch and Transmission	192
[107].	Borg and Beck Clutch	193
[108].	Cone Clutch Leathers—Pattern—Cutting	196
[109].	Friction Transmission	199
[110].	Selective Type of Gear Shifts	200
[111].	Sliding Gear Transmission—Sectional View	201
[112].	Clutch and Transmission Assembly—Unit Power Plant	203
[113].	Slip Joint and Universal	204
[114].	Universal Joint Construction Diagram	205
[115].	Differential Action Diagram	207
[116].	Differential Assembly	208
[117].	Differential Adjusting Points	209
[118].	Allen Gearless Differential	210
[119].	Semi-Floating Rear Axle	213
[120].	Full-Floating Axle—Wheel-End Arrangement	214
[121].	Full-Floating Axle	214
[122].	Steering Knuckle and Front Axle Parts	215
[123].	I-Beam Front Axle	216
[124].	Brake—Types and Adjustment	219
[125].	Brake—Showing Toggle Arrangement	220
[126].	Transmission Brake—Equalizer	220
[127].	Brake—Arrangement and Adjustment—“Buick”	221
[128].	1⁄2-Elliptical Front Spring	226
[129].	Full-Elliptic Spring	226
[130].	3⁄4-Elliptical Rear Spring	227
[131].	Platform Spring	227
[132].	Cantilever Spring, Front	228
[133].	Cantilever Spring, Rear	228
[134].	Wheel Alignment Diagram	230
[135].	Worm and Sector Steering Gear	233
[136].	Worm and Nut Steering Gear	234
[137].	Rack and Pinion Type Steering Gear	234
[138].	Steering Wheel	235
[139].	Plain Bearings or Bushings	236
[140].	Shims	237
[141].	Bock Roller Bearing	237
[142].	Hyatt Roller Bearing	238
[143].	Double Row Radial Ball Bearing	239
[144].	Double Row Thrust Bearing	241
[145].	End Thrust Bearing	241
[146].	Car Arrangement	245
[147].	Ford Motor—Sectional View	278
[148].	Ford Motor—Valve and Cylinder Assembly	279
[149].	Ford Fuel System	290
[150].	Ford Transmission Assembly	303
[151].	Ford Rear Axle System	308
[152].	Ford Brake	309
[153].	Ford Spindle	311
[154].	Ford Chassis Oiling Chart	317

THE AUTOMOBILE OWNER’S GUIDE

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
HISTORY OF THE GAS ENGINE AND EARLY AUTOMOBILE CONSTRUCTION

A great many experiments were conducted with the explosive type of motor between 1840 and 1860. These motors were very heavy and crude affairs and furnished little or no power. They were either abandoned or given up by those conducting the experiments, and had all but disappeared in the later 50’s. The chief difficulties that they could not overcome were, the finding of a suitable and combustible fuel, a way to distribute it to the explosion chambers in proper proportion, and a device to ignite it at the proper time. Many of these early inventions used coal tar gases and gunpowder as fuel.

The first designs for an internal combustion engine of the four stroke cycle type were devised in 1862 by M. Beau de Rochas. These designs were taken in hand by a German by the name of Otto, and many experiments were conducted by him and two other Germans, Daimler and Benz, which resulted in a fairly successful engine. The Otto Gas Engine Co., of Deutz, Germany, was then formed with Daimler as general manager. Experiments were carried on which resulted in many improvements, such as valve adjusting and electrical spark ignition. Many other smaller improvements were worked out which overcame many of the difficulties of the former and cruder devices.

The first gas engines were all of the single cylinder type, very heavily constructed and produced from three to five horse power. In 1886, Daimler conceived the idea of constructing the multiple type of engine with water-jacketed cylinders. Benz also completed a very successful motor in the late fall of 1886, which embodied the water cooling idea. The practical beginning of the gas engine as a factor in vehicle propulsion began in the fall of 1886, when Daimler applied his motor to a two-wheeled contrivance, which greatly resembled our present-day motorcycle. While this machine ran, it was not considered a very great success. Benz in the early part of 1887, connected his motor to a three-wheeled vehicle with which he was able to travel at the rate of three miles per hour.

The real beginning of the present-day automobile took place in Paris, France, in 1890, when M. Panhard secured the patent rights from Daimler to use his engine. He then built a four-wheeled vehicle, which carried some of the ideas of present-day construction, such as a steering device and brakes. To this he applied his engine and was able to travel at the rate of six miles per hour. In 1891 Peugeot Frères completed their vehicle and installed a Benz engine. This vehicle or car, as it was then called by the French government on account of its being mechanically driven, was able to make from seven to eight miles per hour.

The perfecting of the automobile was hampered very much between the years 1891 and 1898 by stringent laws that had been enacted by the French government, which all but prohibited the driving of a car on the public thoroughfare.

The first American-made automobile of the gas propelled type was completed in the year 1892 by Charles Duryea. This car embodied many of our present-day ideas but was very lightly constructed and under-powered.

In 1893 another car made its appearance in America. This car was built by Edward T. Haynes and was the beginning of the present-day Haynes’ line of famous cars.

The first automobile club was organized in Paris, France, in the year 1894 with the Marquis de Dion as president. The purpose of this club was to secure a reformation of the laws that had been enacted when the automobile made its first appearance on the public thorough-fare, and to make laws and rules to govern automobile racing.

At that time it was necessary when driving on a public highway to have some one run seventy-five feet in advance of a car waving a red flag, and to shout a warning at street intersections. These stringent laws, however, were repealed by the government through influential aid brought to bear on it by the automobile club assisted by the rapid progress of the automobile industry.

PURCHASING A NEW CAR
Things to be Considered to Make the Investment Safe

When you are going to buy a new car go about it in this manner and protect your investment.

First.—Choose the car that suits you best in regard to cost, operation, and appearance.

Second.—Inquire as to the financial status of the manufacturer. If there is anything wrong with the car, or the management of the company, it will show up here.

Third.—Orphaned cars may run as well and give as good service as anybody could ask for, but when a company fails or discontinues to manufacture a model, the car immediately loses from one-third to one-half of its actual value. That is, providing you wish to trade it in or sell it as a used car.

Fourth.—What kind of service does the agency in your vicinity give? Do they take any interest in the cars they sell after they are in the hands of the purchaser?

Fifth.—The amount of interest taken in your purchase by the agent or service station usually determines the amount of depreciation at the end of the season.

Sixth.—If you are purchasing your first car some little adjustments will be required, and conditions will arise that require understanding and attention. You, therefore, must acquire either a functional and mechanical knowledge of the operation, or depend on the agent or service station for help.

Seventh.—You will probably say that you can get along without such help. You probably can, but what will be the results? Will you be required to stand a loss in the long run resulting from excessive repair bills and depreciation which could have been prevented to a great extent?

Eighth.—Remember that an agent can fool you when you are buying, but that you cannot fool him if you wish to sell or trade in.

Ninth.—Remember that this book, The Automobile Owners’ Guide, was written to assist you in just such cases as we have presented, and that by spending a little time in study you can acquire a working knowledge of your car, and become independent of the service station and the agent, which will result in a big saving in both repair bills and depreciation.

PURCHASING A USED CAR
How to Estimate Its Value

The question is often asked, Does it pay to invest money in a second-hand car? The answer may be either yes or no, and depends entirely upon the condition of the car.

For example, A and B purchase a new car at the same time. A is rather conservative. He is also a careful driver and gives his car the best of attention. B is a careless driver and pays little or no attention to adjustments and lubrication.

A has seen to proper lubrication and has kept the parts properly adjusted and tightened up, and his careful driving has kept the alignment in perfect condition. His car at the end of the first season requires a little overhauling which will put it in as good condition as it was when it was new as far as service is concerned, and it is worth 85 to 90 per cent of its original value.

B has not seen to proper lubrication and has allowed his motor to overheat. The cylinders and pistons are scored and worn, and the valves are warped and do not seat properly. He drove into deep ruts and chuck-holes, and bumped into curbs and posts while turning around. His axles and wheels are out of line; the frame and all the running parts which it supports are out of alignment. Overhauling will not put this car in A-1 condition, and it is not worth more than 30 per cent. of the original cost price. It would be a poor investment at any price to an owner who is buying it for his own use.

Selecting and Testing a Used Car.—First.—If you are buying from a dealer who trades in cars, judge his statement of the condition of a car according to his ability as a mechanic and according to his reputation for accuracy. If you are buying from a reputable used car dealer his word can usually be taken as a correct statement of conditions as his business depends upon the accuracy of his statements and he knows the condition of a car before he buys it.

Second.—See the former owner. Get his statement of the condition of the car and the care it has had, and judge it by his appearance, and the general appearance of his home and property.

Third.—If the car is listed as Rebuilt or Overhauled, see if the oil-pan, differential, and transmission covers have been removed. If this has been done the old grease will either have been cleaned off or show marks of the removal. If these marks are found the proper adjustments and replacements have probably been made.

Fourth.—Don’t judge the mechanical condition of a car by its outward appearance.

Fifth.—Examine the tires and figure the cost of replacement if any are found in poor condition.

Sixth.—Jack up the front axle and test the wheels for loose or worn bearings.

Seventh.—Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and wiggle it to determine whether the spindle bolts or steering device connections are worn.

Eighth.—Jack up the rear axle, set the gear shift-lever into high-speed, move the wheel in and out from the bottom to discover worn bearings, and move the wheel, forward and backward, to determine the amount of back-lash in the differential and universal joints.

Ninth.—Test the compression of the cylinders while the engine is cold using the hand crank. If one cylinder is found weak, a leak exists and the escaping compression can be heard.

Tenth.—Run the motor until it is warm. If any weakness in compression is noticeable the cylinders are probably scored, or the rings may be worn. The valves may also be warped, thereby preventing them from seating properly.

Eleventh.—Examine the shoulders of the cross-members supporting the engine, radiator, or transmission to see if they are cracked or broken.

Twelfth.—The battery may have deteriorated through improper attention. Test the solution with a hydrometer. If it is found well up, it can be passed as O. K.

Thirteenth.—Don’t judge the condition of the car by the model, as a two or three-year-old model may be in better mechanical condition than a six-month or year-old model.